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SAS NEWBIE QUESTIONS - NO FLAMING ALLOWED

701K views 6K replies 780 participants last post by  InsanePyro 
#1 ·
Do you have a "newbie" type of question?
Do you want a fast response without looking for the answer?
Are you too lazy to search?
Have you searched and can't find what you are looking for?


Do you fear that asking a question may result in flaming, insults or otherwise deragotory or useless responses?

Then this thread is FOR YOU. Ask away, any and all SAS related questions. THERE IS NO FLAMING ALLOWED IN THIS THREAD.

Now, i cant promise that anyone will answer your questions, but I can promise that you wont get anything but a completely or at least semi-appropriate answer. Im sure that there are a few people here that will answer any and all questions.

So, this thead is for you, Oh seekers of knowledge. Ask away!!!!!!!:popc1:
 
#5,463 ·
I started tearing everything apart and getting the new components installed for my sas but im wondering if anyone knows the fitting size on the abs pump so that I can plug one of the front lines to have just a single center drop for the front axle. I bought some but they only had the ones for 3/16 lines but the pump side of the line seems to be a larger fitting and no where online does it specify what size it is. Most likely I will have to order it online so Im trying to get that ordered before I get to that point.

My truck is a 94 xlt 351
 
#5,465 ·
If your doing an SAS and losing the wheel speed sensors you wont have ABS anyways and you want a single line drop for the front so then maybe you could just make a new line straight from the master cylinder and delete the ABS pump. I bet the line from the master to the pump is long enough and you could just cut the line at the pump side and flare on the fitting you want. For the rear there is a coupling just below the fire wall so that would be a short easy line as well. I just started looking into that myself for my SAS and found this thread http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/199311-abs-delete-94-bronco.html. Jump out the wiring harness to the ABS pump and remove the ABS relay and diode (not sure where the diode is yet).
 
#5,471 ·
I dont know how I never saw that thread, it answered everything I needed to know. Since then, I got the brake lines ran directly to front and rear from the mc and I am stoked to say that it works perfectly. I was skeptical if the stock booster/mc could handle the 78tbird calipers but they feel a million times better than the stock so im not complaining.
 
#5,472 ·
Can someone give me the real deal about using the stock TTB spring buckets on a SAS?

I currently have a 6" rough country lift on my TTB. What coils would I want to run to keep a 6 inch lift in the front ? I wouldn't mind going slightly higher because of my heavy bumper and winch. Extra 150-175lbs.

Planing on using the bronco air shock relocation kit to get a decent shock on it.

Thanks
 
#5,473 ·
Just responded to your PM.

Not exactly sure what your meaning by the "real deal" about the stock buckets. But basically there is no reason you can't use them as is. You can even use your existing 6" coils if you want (except for the lower mount may be an issue if your using a 78-79 lower mounting system). They will be a bit stiff for a solid axle but you can always swap them out with others later. Also, since they are 6" for a TTB they will end up being a bit more than 6" on a solid axle setup due to the leverage factor of the TTB. Use our shock brackets and pick the right shocks (I can help you with that) and your done.
 
#5,474 ·
Can someone give me some insight into trac bars? Do most people make there own? If so what size DOM? I noticed some trac bars have bends in them while others are straight? I have seen BroncoAir and Duff Tuff trac bars available, Are these one size fits all? Do I need to wait until the axle is under the truck and centered before I get into this step?
 
#5,476 ·
I think most are made with .25 wall. Straight or bend really depends on the individual setup. Less lift and you likely will have clearance issues with the pumpkin and/or part of the crossmember, again depending on what cutting you may have done or not done on the crossmemember. Length is somewhat dependent on exactly how you create the upper mount to the frame.
 
#5,477 ·
Hi I am new on here and I am doing a solid axle swap in my 94 F-150 with a 1978 Dana 44 axle I was wondering what degree bushings do I use with drop brackets it with a 6 inch lift coil spring and do I use to Springs from the 1978 and 79 Bronco and what size drop brackets should I use is there different size drop brackets or there's one standard size that you use with the 78 mount also what drice shaft should i use
 
#5,479 ·
78 stock coil buckets and seats
Bronco Graveyard 4-6 inch radius arm brackets
springs shackle flip brackets 4.5 inch lift
4 inch block under spring
33 inch tires
6 inch coil springs
4.56 gears
what shims should I put under my rear springs
I am going from a two-wheel drive to a four-wheel drive so what drive shaft should I use and would a stock F-150 transmission with transfer case with a 4-speed overdrive be good for this build
What polyurethane radius arm bushing should i use or should i just go two degrees stock
 
#5,481 ·
Thats a ton of lift in the rear, especially for that small of a tire. Id re-look the 4'' block. Would need to see the block before recommending a shim, because many blocks come angled on the bottom to effectively correct the pinion angle. Good way to do it is do the lift, then take an angle finder with a straight edge, and shoot from the center of the yoke/flange on the axle to the bottom of the output on the transmission.

For your Transmission, a Bronco/F150 Trans/Tcase will bolt in more or less. Driveshaft will need to be lengthened with that amount of lift in the rear I would imagine.

Someone else will have to chime in on the bushings, as I have no experience in those. 78-79 buckets with D44 and 6'' springs is a pretty common setup though, so should be able to check a few build threads and see what has worked.
 
#5,482 ·
What do you guys think of my radius arm idea. I want to take the 78/79 style radius arm and cut I down. Sleeve and gusset some 2" .250 wall DOM tube on it.

I want to keep it straight and have it attached to a custom made cross member that houses mounting tabs for some type of heim/ballistic/johnny joint. The cross member would be made out of 2x3 heavy wall box tubing.

I don't have a way to bend the tube so I figured if they were long enough that would just point inwards to the transfercase crossmember
 
#5,484 ·
What do you guys think of my radius arm idea. I want to take the 78/79 style radius arm and cut I down. Sleeve and gusset some 2" .250 wall DOM tube on it.
Heres what ive done, the pics are lame because i couldn't find the ones from when i was building them but iy gives you an idea Wood Auto part Plant
Auto part Vehicle brake Automotive wheel system Wheel Rust
 
#5,483 ·
I did something similar with my arms, they work great, ibcant remember exactly how much length I added but it's around 10". I still mounted them just under the frame rail, i lost a bit of steering but not a huge deal unless on real tight trails. I can try and dig up some pics of the fab work. I actually cut the arm down basically so the original was about 12" long and i notched the tubing i used (square by the way) to slide over it.
 
#5,487 ·
Hey guys and gals. I'm new to the site and have a few questions. Where should i post a build i'm working on? What should i include in my posts? Are people even interested in SAS builds? Any feed back would be appreciated. Thanks.
There is an entire section meant for SAS builds and questions, so I 'd say there is interest. It used to be one of the most active sections, but the builds seem to be less these days.

If you want to draw interest, I think most people would like to hear your plan/parts upfront, and then watch you execute, at least that is me. We watch, so that means you need pics, lots o pics and explanation as needed with how you're going about a particular part of the install. If anyone else has been thinking similar to you, you will instantly draw them in as an active participant.
 
#5,488 ·
i picked up a d44 from a 79 bronco. what can i swap over from the d44 ttb. I had swapped out the 3rd member of the d44 ttb for a d50 with 4.10 gears, so i presume this carrier will not drop in a Dana 44 SA?

What about the outer parts such as knuckle, spindles, hubs, bearings, bearing lock nuts (well only if the spindles are interchangeable i guess).
if no on the knuckles, then i guess i am SOL on the ABS system
 
#5,491 ·
#5,494 ·
I have lunch box lockers in the front and rear of my F150 SAS. I would not do it again. The rear is very ratchety around sharp turn and the front seems like its going to bust an axle shaft/ujoint before it starts to ratchet. The best deal I've seen for selectable locker is JBG during his holiday sale.

I see you have a E4OD tranny which will need some trimming to use the duff arms mount brackets. I used BKG (Cage) arms and the mounts are longer aft which made me make a new crossmember that I tied into the radius arm mounts. If you have, or will have, a manual tranny the crossmember goes inside the chassis and so you don't have to trim to make the arm mounts work. Then there is your driveshaft clearance issues. Depending on the height of the lift you would have to notch the stock crossmember to clear the driveshaft. By making a new crossmember, you can mount it a little aft of the stock location and not have DS issues.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/4299041-post168.html
 
#5,495 ·
Does anyone know if the front air locker from a 2003 rubicon with the Dana 44 will fit my ford high pinion 44? Research has shown me 2003 to 2006 are regular Dana 44's. might have a line on a cheap used one that I would like to put in the front.
 
#5,496 ·
I dont have any cold hard facts to back this up but i asked a few of my wheelin jeep buddies and they said no it wont work. The rubi 44 is different perhaps the carrier width or size where the splines are? Maybe toss that question in the newbie section might get more attention. More info, actuator doesnt fit inside the housing.
 
#5,498 ·
Hey guys, i finished my 60 install. Geometry wise for the suspension movement things are excellent. Itvwas pretty straight forward as i swapped it for my 44. Ive noticed tho even after my tape measure special for alignment it seems to wander more, all steering etc is new, like everything. The only thing i can think of is i didnt put enough caster in er when i welded the wedges on. I guess the easiest would be to grab some. New c bushings and try that? Whats a HP 60 preferred caster? I set it around 3-4 in hopes to keep the drive shafy angle decent but maybe i need more? Or maybe theres something i missed. Just doesnt feel the same
 
#5,502 ·
Ive got about 6" of lift. 37 inch iroks. Manual hubs. Im putting hydro assist on my truck soon aswell as beadlocks. Being as its more a trail rig only now. I may wait, see how it drives with the ram assist and then re asses. Ill pull a wheel off tonight and re check the current casyer but i think im at three
 
#5,503 ·
passenger drop sas builds/info

Hey Guys,
did the search not really finding what im looking for.
I might be searching for the wrong thing i dont know...
I am currently running a 3/4 ton 2wd set up on my 83. (10.25 in the rear)
It has been on there long enough. I have a set of obtainable cucv axles nearby and was looking for passenger drop conversions. so ill take and links, keywords or names you have thanks guys!
 
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