OK now what type of engine oil and filter do you recommend? Synthetic? Heavy Weight?
and before adding the synthetic on the tranny should i get it drained and a new filter?
As for Other misc items... Should I just get the carb adjusted for now instead of rebuilding it? and would i also benefit from new fuel filter? maybe have the fuel pressure checked and maybe even a new air filter
btw those high performance air filters worth anything?
yeah i saw those bumpers, but i think im gonna need a step bumper.
would this 90amp alt do for now? http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...ype=11&PTSet=A
and what type of new battery?
Yes you really need a 3rd generation 130 amp Taurus alternator
especially if you're an 80-86er, like you are. It will change your Bronco for the better and get rid of a pile of nasty electrical gremlins our years have.
It alone will improve those two p!$$holes in the snow you call headlights (any wildlife on the roads at night in Washington state ? Cause you're gonna hit em' with your current headlights
They run about $35.00 used in junkyards up here or you can buy a high performance one new from Fireguy, here on this site, if you must buy new.
There's plenty of conversion install threads here. It's a true bolt-on for us V-belters, with just a bit of wiring to complete.
Depending on whether your 24 year old engine leaks or burns oil you can choose regular or synthetic (not if you burn or leak) 10W30 engine oil. If it gets REAL cold you can spring for 5W30 for the Winter months, but get it outta there in the Spring.
Not too many people here knock Motorcraft oil filters (I run Fram so I'm an outcast
). Main thing is regular oil changes.
I was talking about synthetic ATF just for the transfer case (thing between the trans and your driveshafts). It'd be pretty pricey to use it in your 14 quart transmission.
Regular ATF with a new internal filter will do just fine for two years. In the Spring consider a $30.00 remote transmission filter;
and a much larger stacked plate trans cooler (just like stock but taller);
Any engine will benefit from a new fuel filter. I'd hold off on the K&N air filter until you know what carb you may have to go with. You'd kick yourself if you paid $60.00 for a filter that didn't fit your next carb
For now, blow $6.00 and get a new plain air filter. Testing the fuel pressure is more effective for fuel injection, but if you suspect the fuel pump then go ahead.
If you have an old style mechanical pump it would cost less to buy one than they'll charge you to test it.
Don't go near the carb until you get those new plug wires and plugs installed. Carb adjustment screws don't "walk out" or twist themselves. It's ignition components that deteriorate, like plugs, wires, cap & rotor.
After you've got them changed then tune the carb and adjust the timing, if need be.
What Tommy is saying is something else you oughta try if the ignition components don't fix what ails ya.
If all you want is a step bumper then you just opened up a whole new realm of possibilities my friend. Your rear bumper is Bronco specific. For just a step bumper now you can choose from any F-150 in the junkyard or buy new locally.
Why do you think you need a battery ? If it tests good, keep it and upgrade your alternator. All the $200.00 dry cell batteries in the world won't do you any good if you retain that POS 2nd generation 65 amp alternator.
I run a generic, house brand 875 CC amp battery and I can see into the next county with my headlights (granted I upgraded the headlights and harness), and my 2600 watts of amps don't drain anything away, with that 3G on the job.
One last tip I'll give you is buy a grease gun and load it with synthetic grease. Climb under(you don't have to jack up a Bronco) and find your 9 U-joints and grease em' and keep em' greased.
There's also a pile of suspension nipples needing greased too. If you get the urge to grease the wheel bearings BE SURE to go a little further in and grease the inner spindle bearings. Very few people do until it's too late and you need new spindle$$$.
You can drain your own rear differential buy pulling off the rear cover. The front you'll have to buy a drill pump and vacuum out through the fill hole as there's no drain hole.
For $7.00 you can do this and make your own drain hole;
read up on it here;
BTW Steve83 is our resident Bronco guru and perusing his site would be highly advisable. He, like me & you, is also an 80-86er so it will be that much more relevant for you.