Finally: 85 Bronco (Pics) Tons of Questions and Help Needed!! - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-22-2007, 07:01 PM
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ok....im cooled off..... anyways, dont cover the rust up. from the looks of it, you need to replace some stuff, like the sheet metal.
as for the running bad, its the carb. you gotta screw with the settings. like mine. i had the same problems, and i adjusted to carb, and it works just fine now.
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post #22 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-22-2007, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: '85 FS - 5.8 351 (Edelbrock 1406 4brl) - C6+NP208 - Shorties - Flowmaster 40 - Stock Height
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Originally Posted by nitrorustlerpro15 View Post
ok....im cooled off..... anyways, dont cover the rust up. from the looks of it, you need to replace some stuff, like the sheet metal.
as for the running bad, its the carb. you gotta screw with the settings. like mine. i had the same problems, and i adjusted to carb, and it works just fine now.
as mentioned above, the sheet metal that needs to be replaced will be done by an experienced welder before the rust bullet goes down, so that that parts that are rusted through will be patched. Than after the rust prevention goes down the hurculiner will go down and that should finish off the interior except for dash board and seats.

'85 Bronco Custom... RIP 01/24/2011 - Totaled By A Honda
'84 XLT - 302 - Stock - Flowmaster 44 - C6+208 - 32" Tires
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post #23 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-22-2007, 09:06 PM
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post #24 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-22-2007, 09:45 PM
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Bronco Info: 86 Eddie Bauer; EFI 5.0 liter, AOD, optimized ignition system, external tranny filter, urethane bush
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Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
Questions:

#1 - Cold Start Issues - In the morning it takes about 30-45 minutes for the truck to warm up, while its doing that I am forced to keep my foot on the gas lightly and keep it there till its warm.. If i dont the truck will die.

#2 - Exhaust Leak - According to previous owner there is an exhaust leak somewhere near the headers or something, how would I go about making sure before I do any work?

#3 - Backfire - For some reason it backfires once or twice during the day but only once or twice. There's been a new Starter, Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter and a couple things replaced in the past few months so any help would be appreciated.

#4 - Tranny Jerk? - When I change from park to drive and such the tranny makes the whole truck move and jerk is that normal?

#5 - Sticky Key? - When i try to turn the key its very hard in the ignition and Is there some way to clean that with wd-40 or something?

#6 - Rough Idle? - Im pretty sure its an easy fix by getting it idle and timed but for some reason it died when i stopped in a parking lot and seems to want to die but it doesnt and it idles roughly.

#7 - What Can I Do? - What are some things I can do on the truck engine right now that are decently cheap to improve performance and to keep it running and running smooth? I Plan on oil and tranny changes, new filters and misc items, getting it diag'd to see if more needs to be done but what else?

#8 - Bumpers - Whats the best way to refinish a back and front bumper?

#9 - Stearing Crack? Might Be The Rubber Boot!!! WOOT Makes me happy its not the stearing..


More later

What I'm Gonna Do:

Sand down interior and use rust bullet
Install Hurculiner in the interior
Sand down exterior and paint flat black
Change Shocks
New Tires
Bumper Guards
New Lights
New Radio
Re-paint interior Black
New Driver Seat, + All 3 Seatcovers
Hey welcome here Spikedzombies

Not a bad score for the money paid !

As others have told you already your first seven(less #5) problems are likely related. I've tuned carbs for over 30 years and I'd be FAR more suspect of those plug wires my friend.

That and the fact you're state is cold, wet and dank this time of year correct ? I don't care how new they look, they're performing like garbage !

Older, wet impregnated plug wires can cost you several mpg this time of year. With a new set of Ford MotorSport 9mm plug wires under $50.00 at your nearest Ford stealership I'd be slapping on a set before the next fill up

DO NOT buy platinum plugs or any fancy plugs for this thing. You engine prefers the cheapest Autolite copper plugs money can buy. The low line Motorcraft plus are also good.

A new cap & rotor are also a good investment. Never mind the Sixlitre ignition mods until next Spring and AFTER you get this idle problem solved. Set the new plugs at stock for the Winter and double check your base timing with a light.

If, after the new plugs, wires and cap are on, you aren't idling better THEN and only then start monkeying around with the timing and carb adjustments.

For number 8 I'd just get the Turtle Wax chrome cleaner out for the front bumper (which looks fine to me) and then wax it afterwards. The rear bumper is very common in junkyards so start lookin' ! IIRC it's not priced outta sight at JBG either (talk to Santa).

Back to number 7;

Get all the fluids changed (yourself), sticking synthetic ATF in the transfer case yesterday. Sure it costs nearly $7.00 a quart;



but you only need 2 1/2 quarts and it'll keep your transfer case shifting smoothly all Winter long.

Synthetic gear oil in both diffs helps Winter mileage too.

Another help for Washington state temps and warm up period is a 205 degree T-stat;



It'll have you warmed up inside a mile or two after start up. See that little bypass hose in the pic ? It's @$5.00 and it's heck on earth to change at the side of the road, in the dark, during a storm, when all you brought was a bum lighter....getting the message?

As far as your B list of what you're going to do goes, hey they're your priorities but I'd hold off on tires until you drive your Bronco and learn what you want to do with it (lift it or not,etc).

I would recommend a 3G 130 amp Taurus alternator conversion ASAP. It will cure ALL the electrical gremlins that our 80-86s are notorious for (and you are about to experiance).

Your headlights and stereo install will benefit from it GREATLY !

Next Spring (no rush) get a larger trans cooler and a remote trans filter.

How's that for advice

Sixlitre

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post #25 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
and can anyone link me to a decent rebuild kit for the carb? or maybe some cheap $200-$300 carb thats decent?
Here's a rear bumper link;

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...rome_80-96.htm

Brand new for $149.00

As for a carb rebuild kit, you can beat that price no troubles at all, how's $33.00 grab ya ? here;

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...Carburetor+Kit

Don't spend a carb related dime until you get them plugs and wires changed out

Good luck

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post #26 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 03:16 AM Thread Starter
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Bronco Info: '85 FS - 5.8 351 (Edelbrock 1406 4brl) - C6+NP208 - Shorties - Flowmaster 40 - Stock Height
OK now what type of engine oil and filter do you recommend? Synthetic? Heavy Weight?

and before adding the synthetic on the tranny should i get it drained and a new filter?

As for Other misc items... Should I just get the carb adjusted for now instead of rebuilding it? and would i also benefit from new fuel filter? maybe have the fuel pressure checked and maybe even a new air filter

btw those high performance air filters worth anything?

yeah i saw those bumpers, but i think im gonna need a step bumper.

would this 90amp alt do for now? http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...ype=11&PTSet=A

and what type of new battery?

'85 Bronco Custom... RIP 01/24/2011 - Totaled By A Honda
'84 XLT - 302 - Stock - Flowmaster 44 - C6+208 - 32" Tires
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post #27 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 03:45 AM
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Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
OK now what type of engine oil and filter do you recommend? Synthetic? Heavy Weight?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

Quote:
Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
would this 90amp alt do for now?
Quote:
Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
and what type of new battery?
SEARCH is your friend... Look for ANY of the 3G swap threads, but the one in Tech Writeups will probably be the best. For the battery: read this discussion.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/17907-dual-batteries-w-1-redtops.html
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post #28 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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well i dont plan on adding any lights, and im really not a loud stereo person so a cd player is really all i need... never even thought of adding high end system.. so is a 3g swap really necessary?

also can i get YOUR recommendation on oil and filters not some other websites?

'85 Bronco Custom... RIP 01/24/2011 - Totaled By A Honda
'84 XLT - 302 - Stock - Flowmaster 44 - C6+208 - 32" Tires
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post #29 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 05:57 AM
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You can get rust conversion in areo and brush on at Walmart.
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post #30 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 09:11 AM
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Something that is really easy to do is:

1. to spray down the carb with choke cleaner and make sure everything is really moving properly. Especially that choke. Make sure it is dropping back all the way. Don't adjust anything quite yet.

2. Take off the EGR valve and make sure it isn't all clogged with carbon. Borrow a vacuum tool from Autozone and test the diaphragm to see if it holds. If it doesn't, ya might want to just replace it. (60-80 bucks) If your diaphragm holds, check the valve. If it is not dropping closed all the way it can cause rough idle, stalling... and in general a crappy running engine when not at speed. Just hit it with lots of choke/carb cleaner, move it up and down with your thumb, wipe it with a rag, and DON't let the cleaner drip down into the diaphragm. You might have to do it several times to get all the carbon out, but it's super easy to remove. Two nuts and a vacuum and electrical connection.

You just might find that solves a lot of the rough idle, rough start issues without changing or replacing anything.
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post #31 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post
OK now what type of engine oil and filter do you recommend? Synthetic? Heavy Weight?

and before adding the synthetic on the tranny should i get it drained and a new filter?

As for Other misc items... Should I just get the carb adjusted for now instead of rebuilding it? and would i also benefit from new fuel filter? maybe have the fuel pressure checked and maybe even a new air filter

btw those high performance air filters worth anything?

yeah i saw those bumpers, but i think im gonna need a step bumper.

would this 90amp alt do for now? http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...ype=11&PTSet=A

and what type of new battery?
Yes you really need a 3rd generation 130 amp Taurus alternator

especially if you're an 80-86er, like you are. It will change your Bronco for the better and get rid of a pile of nasty electrical gremlins our years have.

It alone will improve those two p!$$holes in the snow you call headlights (any wildlife on the roads at night in Washington state ? Cause you're gonna hit em' with your current headlights)

They run about $35.00 used in junkyards up here or you can buy a high performance one new from Fireguy, here on this site, if you must buy new.

There's plenty of conversion install threads here. It's a true bolt-on for us V-belters, with just a bit of wiring to complete.

Depending on whether your 24 year old engine leaks or burns oil you can choose regular or synthetic (not if you burn or leak) 10W30 engine oil. If it gets REAL cold you can spring for 5W30 for the Winter months, but get it outta there in the Spring.

Not too many people here knock Motorcraft oil filters (I run Fram so I'm an outcast). Main thing is regular oil changes.

I was talking about synthetic ATF just for the transfer case (thing between the trans and your driveshafts). It'd be pretty pricey to use it in your 14 quart transmission.

Regular ATF with a new internal filter will do just fine for two years. In the Spring consider a $30.00 remote transmission filter;



and a much larger stacked plate trans cooler (just like stock but taller);



Any engine will benefit from a new fuel filter. I'd hold off on the K&N air filter until you know what carb you may have to go with. You'd kick yourself if you paid $60.00 for a filter that didn't fit your next carb

For now, blow $6.00 and get a new plain air filter. Testing the fuel pressure is more effective for fuel injection, but if you suspect the fuel pump then go ahead.

If you have an old style mechanical pump it would cost less to buy one than they'll charge you to test it.

Don't go near the carb until you get those new plug wires and plugs installed. Carb adjustment screws don't "walk out" or twist themselves. It's ignition components that deteriorate, like plugs, wires, cap & rotor.

After you've got them changed then tune the carb and adjust the timing, if need be.

What Tommy is saying is something else you oughta try if the ignition components don't fix what ails ya.

If all you want is a step bumper then you just opened up a whole new realm of possibilities my friend. Your rear bumper is Bronco specific. For just a step bumper now you can choose from any F-150 in the junkyard or buy new locally.

Why do you think you need a battery ? If it tests good, keep it and upgrade your alternator. All the $200.00 dry cell batteries in the world won't do you any good if you retain that POS 2nd generation 65 amp alternator.

I run a generic, house brand 875 CC amp battery and I can see into the next county with my headlights (granted I upgraded the headlights and harness), and my 2600 watts of amps don't drain anything away, with that 3G on the job.

One last tip I'll give you is buy a grease gun and load it with synthetic grease. Climb under(you don't have to jack up a Bronco) and find your 9 U-joints and grease em' and keep em' greased.

There's also a pile of suspension nipples needing greased too. If you get the urge to grease the wheel bearings BE SURE to go a little further in and grease the inner spindle bearings. Very few people do until it's too late and you need new spindle$$$.

You can drain your own rear differential buy pulling off the rear cover. The front you'll have to buy a drill pump and vacuum out through the fill hole as there's no drain hole.

For $7.00 you can do this and make your own drain hole;



read up on it here;

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/17957

Sixlitre

p.s./
BTW Steve83 is our resident Bronco guru and perusing his site would be highly advisable. He, like me & you, is also an 80-86er so it will be that much more relevant for you.

My Superford site
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=17328#content
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post #32 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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ok ill definitely have to fly the 3G swap by my father, not sure if he's gonna want me doing something like that just yet.. lol

So Far ive seen that it doesnt knock, ping or burn or leak any kind of fluids, so ill go with some synthetic for now and test it... but after the winter, for now ill stick with regular.

as for the battery.... looks like its brand new after all... along with the Caps/Rotor/Wire/Plugs

keep the info comin and ill keep the questions comin thanks guys.

pics of the carb, and alternator, and battery... BTW is the air conditioner just better off being taken out of the truck? or keep it? not sure if its working but probably needs to be recharged.. but right now its just blocking the damn alternator LOL






'85 Bronco Custom... RIP 01/24/2011 - Totaled By A Honda
'84 XLT - 302 - Stock - Flowmaster 44 - C6+208 - 32" Tires
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post #33 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 03:45 PM
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That there be your smog pump blocking your alternator Spiked

Leave your AC compressor on as it's not really in your way and you can get it recharged next year or not, depending what you want. In you earlier pics I thought I saw your AC compressor didn't even have it's V-belt on IIRC.

Man your underhood wiring is so simplified on your 85 carbed Bronco it makes me pine for it. Doing a 3rd generation alternator swap would be easy as pie for you !

Basically those orange and yellow 10 gauge wires in your first pic(just peeping out of the convolute tubing pointed to your firewall, on top of the plastic wheelhouse) are all you need access to.

From here your battery looks (and sounds) fine. Clean and grease your clamps and posts for Winter and you'll be fine IMHO.

If you're in the buying mood, might think about splurging on a battery hold down strap, like this at the stealership;



In case you turn her t!ts up this Winter

Here's a pic of a used $35.00 3rd Generation 130 amp Taurus alternator on an 86' (mine actually);



It's shot from underneath (the easy way to get pre-87 alternators off). If your Pappy's the wiring man in the family I'd show him the pic.

See the smog pump (just like yours) up top of the alternator ? You can also see it uses the same adjusting strap underneath and the exact same mounting bolt up top as your POS 2nd generation (fire prone) alternator.

The belts also line up perfectly too

It's one of the all time best upgrades I've done to my 86'. It helps me every time I drive it.

Sixlitre

p.s./
You, living in an apartment complex, will appreciate how you don't have to jack up the Bronco to work underneath it. Stop throwing out cardboard boxes and start saving your new under truck lying on mats

Now get out there and shine that front bumper up with the turtle wax chrome polish ($3.00 at the hardware store). Don't forget to wax it afterwards too ! Twice for Winter salt !

My Superford site
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=17328#content
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post #34 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spikedzombies View Post


Spiked

One of the few advantages 80-86ers have over the more technically advanced 87+up Broncos is we can do this



for the price of 5 minutes and drilling one hole inside your front rad support (the other hole is already there) you can move your washer/coolant reservoir over from the said of the fender to the front of the rad support, like this;



(note them 12 gauge headlight wires)

This minute effort will allow you to carry a 12" X 12" X 22" tool/parts box under the hood, safe and oughta sight of the local scum suckin' thieves.

This is important as you now own a 24 model year old truck and spare parts and tools is essential. Where else you gonna keep em' ? in the apt washroom ?

Your next purchase (on sale of course) MUST be a Haynes manual;



You should never leave the county without it (I keep mine in those zip pouches on the seat backs (Eddie Bauer).

Ford service manuals are great but prohibitively expensive ($150.00), where as Haynes can be scored for around $10.00.

Sixlitre

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post #35 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 04:03 PM
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Thats the smog pump not the compressor for the a/c. The compressor is on the other side over the p/s pump.
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post #36 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 05:41 PM
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Bronco Info: 1996 XLT, 5.0, K&N, Gibson shorty headers, custom dual exhaust, 3g, B&M tranny cooler, 32" BFG A/T's
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so is a 3g swap really necessary?
If you want to be cool like us it is.

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post #37 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
IM FAT, YOUR UGLY!
 
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Bronco Info: '85 FS - 5.8 351 (Edelbrock 1406 4brl) - C6+NP208 - Shorties - Flowmaster 40 - Stock Height
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadeyedick View Post
If you want to be cool like us it is.
i prefer not to conform to this reality

'85 Bronco Custom... RIP 01/24/2011 - Totaled By A Honda
'84 XLT - 302 - Stock - Flowmaster 44 - C6+208 - 32" Tires
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post #38 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 08:19 PM
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Not only is the 3G a more powerful alternator; it's more modern, more reliable, more serviceable, and simpler.
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post #39 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 09:26 PM
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Carburetor looks like a holley 4180 (~600cfm). Like Sixlitre said, work with the ignition then start adjusting the carb, and DEFINITELY get the Holley kit.....

1988 Ford F-150 4x4
5.0, C6, and some junk done to it.....
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post #40 of 536 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 09:33 PM
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Sixlitre for Fullsize member of the year.
Dude you go above and beyond helping people.

hill climb
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