Squeeky air/vacumn pump...Anyway to lube it? - FSB Forums
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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Squeeky air/vacumn pump...Anyway to lube it?

The air/vacumn pump (below the alternator) is squeeling occasionally. Is there any way to lube the bearings or do I need a new air pump?

Anybody know where to get a new one if I need one?



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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 11:32 AM
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You can get a new one from any parts house. I've heard of people gutting them and lubing the bearings, but I never saved the details. Steve83 might know.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 12:40 PM
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Bronco Info: 88 Eddie bauer 302 (Gt-40 heads, Ford Racing Short Headers, Comp Cam, Bootyfabbed FIPK) 6 inch Super
Gutting it is easy, I did it myself in the parking lot if my apartment complex with basic tools. Here's ya go:

First, loosen the bolts on the pulley, then remove the air pump from your truck (you do this because it's hard to take the bolts holding the pulley on, off, when there isn't the belt holding the pulley in place). The back of the air pump will have several bolts, take all those out. Then pry the back of the pump off, it will take some effort, but I promise it does come off. You will see two metal dowels in teh casing holding the back on, once you get past those, it will still hang up, just keep working it will come off. Once it's off you will see that the back has a metal post that ran down the middle of the air pump attached to it. Inside you will see three fins with three bearing sleeves type things on each fin, and these fins sit inside what looks like a coffee can that sits inside the airpump casing. Basically, the fins bearing sleeves are on the metal post from the backing (imagine a door hinge that would attach to the wall, and to two doors, imagine how three mounting plates would attach to the post used on the door hinge, same principal), the fins stick out of three slots in the metal can, the metal can spins with the pulley, the fins push the air that is inbetween the can and the casing wall. To gut the air pump, you need to get the three fins out. You will see they will not fit out the hole at the back of the air pump with the bearing sleeves attached. So, you have to break the sleeves off of the fins to remove them. I know all of this sounds complicated, but I promise it's not, it's very easy, and again, parking lot, basic tools. Start with one fin, try to move the other two outta the way, put the fin in one of the slots in the coffee can, place a flathead screw driver at the point where the top bearing sleeve meets the fin, use a hammer and keep hitting until the bearing sleeves detaches from the fin. Once it's off, get it out of the air pump. Do the same thing on the middle bearing sleeve. Now, the bottom one is a little more difficult, but not bad. Position the fin you are working on so the bottom bearing sleeve (the one closes to the pulley) is resting ontop of another bearing sleeve, but the fin itself has some clearance to the back of the air pump. Use a hammer and hit the fin until the bearing sleeve breaks loose. With all three bearing sleeves off, you can get the fin out. Repeat for the second fin. Now for the third one, do the same foe the top and middle bearing sleeve. The bottom one is a little tricky because there are no more bearing sleeves in the coffee can. So, put two of the broken bearing sleeves back into the coffee can, stack them ontop of each other, then put the bottom bearing sleeve of the last fin on top of them. Hit with hammer, break loose, and everything will come out. Now you air pump will not move any air. You could get some grease down there (I'm sure there's an easy way, but I can't explain because mine didn't need greasing). Put the back, back on, put back in place. Looks like it is functunal, but it's not. BTW, if it's a concerned, my new engine with GT-40P heads, comp cam, and headers still pass Emmissions test here in GA, so I wouldn't sweat that.

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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 05:25 PM
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Bronco Info: rusty
just do this:

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Parts replacement is not auto repair, if you canít diagnose, donít open the hood!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-27-2004, 06:42 PM
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Bronco Info: 1990 EB, 357, E4OD
Don't forget what just happened to blown. If you disable the air pump you don't have combustion air for the cat to do its job properly and it may clog up on you. If you do this you should either gut the cat or eliminate it. I'm eliminating all the smog crap with my 351 swap including elimination of the cat while I'm at it.

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Hit it harder or get a bigger hammer!!!

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slap me silly im a mother F^%#$%*($ retard
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