Axle Pivot Bushing Install (yes I searched) - Ford Bronco Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Axle Pivot Bushing Install (yes I searched)

I've got a 94 XLT (148k miles)in MAJOR need of new axle pivot bushings. All the threads I've found on replacing the bushings cover it fairly well, but I'm still not clear on one thing - just getting to the bushing. Is it simply a matter of setting the Bronco on jackstands, removing the wheel, putting a jack under the end of the ttb and then removing the coil spring/shock and pivot bolt? At that point I know the real "fun" begins. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 09:50 AM
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howdy.

umm.., i know some people have replaced thiers on the vehicle. mine were done off the vehicle. I figured i needed them pressed in and out, so i went to dogonmuts to use the press.

not necessary. Scott smashed em out with a 5 lb. hammer, hammered new ones in and was done in 10 minutes. Im not sure how you would get a really good whack on the bushing if there is nothing to brace the beam.
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleepydog
I've got a 94 XLT (148k miles)in MAJOR need of new axle pivot bushings.
I have a 86 with 480,000 miles on it. I always thought I neded new axle pivot bushings. When I removed my TTB last weekend to install my lift, I found out my bushings where just fine. The only reason I am replacing them is becouse i already bout new ones, and the TTB is out from under the truck.

Why do you suspect you need new ones?

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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I suspect I need new ones 'cause I had it up on a rack the other day for some new tires (BFG AT ko's - they rock), and I noticed the pivot bushing bolt was at an angle and the bushing itself was worn/torn/you can see the inner sleeve - Not to mention the fact that I have steering issues (all other components check out fine), despite alignment being dead on as well, it still wants to wander/oversteer at times, especially coming out of a hard turn.
Process of elimination really -

Thanks.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 10:51 AM
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Just noticed your new
Welcome to FSB. You should go intraduce youself here.http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=18

As far as the wandering, It's TTB it is designed to wander


And to change them it, would probably be esiast to just pull the hole thing out from under the Bronco.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 12:30 PM
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What I did is put one side up on a stand after loosing the pivot bolt. Jacked it up on one side and let the one axle drop. Then went at the bushing with a hammer, chisel and file. After getting them out, I put the new ones in and raised the axle and bolted it in. Same for opposite side. Not too bad a job considering it was January and freezing.

My bushing were so worn that the bolt was almost resting on one side of the bushing. Improved on handling the bronco.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 03:21 PM
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I replaced mine when I installed the lift 3 years ago. This was with the front end completely removed form the truck, but I would think with some care it could be done without dropping the front end completely out. Anyway, we used a torch to burn the old bushings out & a hammer to get the new ones in.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gacknar
I have a 86 with 480,000 miles on it. I always thought I neded new axle pivot bushings. When I removed my TTB last weekend to install my lift, I found out my bushings where just fine.
its hit and miss, the pivot bushings in my parents van last about 20k miles before they start groaning like a saigon whore.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2004, 05:46 PM
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I just replaced mine when I did my lift. Seems like the right thing to do when you're that far into it. Having done this job, I have a few comments and a question myself.

First, I had a heck of a time finding the right bushing. It took several trips to the local parts store. The first one I took home was too long and not the right diameter. When I returned those, I was told those are the only ones listed for my truck. Then they started looking in the F-150 section of the Spicer catalog. However, those weren't in stock. I picked those up when the arrived at the store and took another shot at an in stock set. None of those fit particularly well as far as I'm concerned. I had to put them in the vice and make them a little oblong so they would stay in the axle beam. Then I had to return the other set that was wrong.

That's the comments... here's the question: when that bushing is installed at the factory, is it flared on the back side to make it stay in the beam? Mine was difficult to get out. I had to push the rubber out of it then use a cold chisel to "fold" over the backside outer edge and push it through. Then like I said the replacement didn't fit tightly at all. I'm wondering if there is a tool that I need to complete the job properly.

Another comment about your steering problem. Your visibly bad bushing notwithstanding, I had a steering problem that I described exactly like you did. I checked everything, ball joints, radius arm bushings, etc, etc. I finally convinced myself that it was ball joints and bought all the parts to do it including a handy ball joint press that makes the job doable at home in the driveway. Turns out it was a completely frozen front U-joint. When I pulled the thing out of the diff, it was rigid in my hand. I stood on it between a couple of blocks and couldn't make it flex. I am afraid to imagine what kind of damage that could of done had I engaged the hubs. Anyway, it gave similar symptoms as what you have mentioned. Thought it might be helpful.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2004, 01:59 AM
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When I replaced mine, I had the front end on jackstands. I removed the bolt and got the axle dropped enough to get to the bushing. I took a drill and drilled out as much of the rubber as I could until the center sleeve came out. Then I took a torch and cut the outer sleeve in a couple of places and it came right out. But you have to be careful and cut it horizontally and only get the sleev hot. If you're careful you shouldn't get into the axle itself. And hammer the new bushing in, I think i used something like a 2" socket or larger so I was only driving the lip, not the center

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2004, 02:14 AM
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great info.. gonna do this to the limo on saturday.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2004, 08:14 PM
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axle pivot bushings

i replaced these on my 87 while doing my 6" bds lift.don't hammer them out either use a sharpened flat screwdriver or thin sharp chisel. i used energy suspension poly type.read the directions carefully.in my application i had a metal sleeve that was between the bushing and the arm (traction beam) itself.what is a little confusing is that although the kit comes with metal sleeves the instruction tell you to not remove them from the arm the reason being the sleeves in the kit are not the same size as the originals.once the rubber bushing is free of the sleeve by whatever method you choose,again i recommend a sharp flat screwdriver, a puller can be fabricated with some 3/8 threaded rod,nuts,washers,and a short piece of pipe large enough for the od of the bushinf to pass through.note also the bushing will only come out one way.use the same gizmo to pull a well lubricated new bushing into a well cleaned sleeve.the job is easy. you cannot hammer in a new bushing. hth regards shovelhead

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2004, 11:04 PM
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You dont need to remove the suspension just remove the bolt. maybe the springs i dont know i was pitting on my lift so i had it all off anyway. then beat the hell out of the metal sleeve in the bushingtill you get it out. then do the same with the rubber busking. then do the same to get the new one in. mine didnt look bad at all for 120000miles.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2004, 07:06 AM
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What does every one prefer, new rubber bushings or the poly type? Also the same qustion for the radius arm bushings.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-06-2004, 02:49 AM
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I used Prothane polyurethane bushings. They reuse the outer sleeve, so you don't have to worry about removing it from the beam. I simply removed the pivot bolt, drilled out a lot of the old bushing, then used one of those $10 hand-held propane torches to burn out the rest of the bushing. When it was all over, there was just some scraping to do before slipping the new bushings in.
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