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coil spring difference?

11K views 28 replies 8 participants last post by  DasTeufelHund 
#1 ·
was wondering if the coil spring on a 1986 ford bronco well work on my 1990 ford bronco and on the 86 it looks like its one of the lvling kits cause from the bump stop to axle on the 86 has more clearence then on my 90
 
#4 ·
ok thanks just checking cause on my 90 the coil spring is thicker than the
one on the 86 but on the 86 looks new
Cool. :) If they got the labels on 'em still ...post the numbers. :)

In the service manual they list their B springs mostly went on Broncos and
their D springs on F150s. I took the D springs off my '91 F150-SC and put
'em under my Bronco and they did-not make the wheels go... \--o-/ . :)

The E springs that are under the '90 F250 >8500# parts truck will go under
the F150-SC because it always felt too sissy/squishy. LOL :)

The lighter springs are longer to make up for their wimpy-ness...

...the lighter spring is off an F250 and the heavier spring is the "driver" spring
off my '75 F150 the dealership put on under warranty. It was never straight.
Not from the factory or after the spring swap. I leveled it out myself.

Most stuff you just got to do yourself. LOL :)

-----------------------

BTW, all three of mine are 5.8's ...and the 300i6 is heavier than a 302.

In the old days, like my '75 F150, Ford used two different springs to even
things up in front and I see they wised-up and use the same spring on both
sides and space the passenger side an extra ~5/16" to even things up. :)

Passenger side is heavier even with a mid-ship/front fuel tank and driver.

Alvin in AZ
 
#8 ·
yo,
Good stuff guys!

You can also verify by looking @ your 90's Door Jamb Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate)


Door Jamb Label (Certification Label, also referred to as the Patent Plate, Data Plate & the Warranty Plate) pic in an 88
Source: by Jem270 at SuperMotors.net

look in lower right Under SPRING; B Z;
B (Coil) Z (Rear Leaf Spring)

Here is a pic in a 93

look in lower right Under SPRINGS 7B47-FOTA-j5204A10-AA

and one from Will in a 93

SPRINGS 7B47
by Steve83

In later years, Ford gave us some more info; such as in a 96
See diagram

=========
And Ford does list diff spring in their MC On-Line Catalog @
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/C...HaGlzdG9yeQUEdHJ1ZbeJQwrDnn1brKWLK+LH7viyyDAr
View Image
5310 Front Spring
Spring code C (Front) $226.97 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

5310 Front Spring
Spring code G (Front) $192.18 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

5310 Front Spring
Spring code U (Front) $165.40 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

5310 Front Spring
Spring code V (Front) $141.47 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

5310 Front Spring
Spring code B (Front) $214.60 Select a dealer for their prices and availability

5415 Coil Spring Insulator 4x4 (Front)


5560 Rear Spring, Spring code Z (on page 5)

I'll post this for now and get you other info later.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
#10 ·
This is what Ford calls the ride-height...

...they won't say what's "best" they just give a range.

But in the '75 Shop Manual they do say to place blocks between the frame
and axle to bring the ride height up to 4" before taking alignment readings if
the ride height is less than 4".

-----------------------

Read lots of places what-they-thought caused front tire cupping. For me and
my old clunker the main problem was too much toe-in! For some dangged
reason every time the "alignment guys" adjust the toe-in, they go for -more-
rather than -less-.

From my experiments I've found that I like the way almost-zero toe-in feels
while driving and I've reduced the front tire cupping on an older twin-I-beam
to almost none too. Heard many alignments guys say "it's a Ford thing" and
leave it at that when asked about front tire cupping.

Zero to 1/32" toe-in is my favorite...




-------------------------

~1/8" toe -out- in the -front- was my favorite for VW based dune buggies.

Big sloppy tires would let the dune buggy lean and the front end would grip
better, from more weight on it, and then steer it more than you wanted.
So you'd rock back and forth with toe-in. :)

As straight as I could get the -rear- (all measurements with weight in 'em!)
worked best for both dune buggies and Bugs.

Straight as you can get 'em works best for motorcycles and bicycles too! :)

Alvin in AZ (is rattling on about crazy-shit again)
 
#11 ·
Doggonit my scanner doesn't work anymore. :/
(software+hardware-compatibility problems)

So I'll type out this stuff from the '91 Ford Shop Manual...

Front spring codes Bronco:
B = E0TA-5310-BC = ~.675"wire (was on my '91 Edwina Bauer)
C = E0TA-5310-CC = ?"
G = E0TA-5310-GC = ?"
U = E0TA-5310-UC = ?"
V = E0TA-5310-VB = ?"

Two more for F-series that I know:
D = E0TA-5310-DC = ~.715"wire ('91 F150 Super Cab)
E = E0TA-5310-EC = ~.725"wire ('90 F250 >8500# parts truck)

(oops, didn't remember my letters right! I'll correct post #5)
----------------

Rear spring codes for Bronco:
Z = E3TA-5560-ANA

There's just the one! LOL :)

Alvin in AZ
 
#18 ·
Cool. :)

Have you got a .001" reading caliper or micrometer? (or a friend with one? ;)
If so, clean a spring and measure the wire thickness in a few places for me. :)

Also measure the ride-height on all four axles (bottom of frame to top of axle).
I'll go out and measure my '91 Bronco right now. (forgot the numbers;)

{4+1/4" both sides, same as in the picture of the '75 F150}

The driver's side is not so straight forward to measure since the beam is curved,
but on mine I know they are the same since the frame is the same distance from
the ground on both sides and both sides in the rear too.

------------------------

I put two 3/8" plates (3/4" total) -under-the wedge of the rear axle to straighten
the whole works up. But it's just temporary, I'll re-arch the springs later (you can
re-arch leaf springs yourself BTDT) and I'll fix it so it won't need the 3/4" spacer. :)

Tried the spacer -over-the wedge and it drove funny. :/ It moved that one-end of
the rear axle back -very-slightly but it was enough to screw up its otherwise very
nice steering! No kidding. Swapped it -under-the wedge and the nice steering was
immediately restored. Shorter the wheel base the more effect the rear axle being
crooked has.

Alvin in AZ
 
#26 ·
Anyone knows a good set of heavy duty coil springs to work with stock quad shocks? I came across Dayton, but it says "except quad shocks" What would happen if I fit that to my quad shock set up? Here's the part: Dayton 351-824SD. My rig is stock height. Looks like this set has two more loops than my nasty old coils.

Thanks!!
 
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