I think there migh tbe an upper limit of "The HOTTER it runs...
Of course. Nowadays, it's the oil, but the cooling system has been engineered around that temperature, and so has the engine design, and all the materials used on/around it. When we come up with a lubricant that works from -40 to +350F, engine systems will be redesigned around those temps to take advantage of the higher efficiency. But modern oil can handle ~240F, so the closer you run to that, the better-off you are.
Not EVERYTHING has to be better because of tangible numbers.
I didn't say it did - I asked him why he's doing it. But MOST people are under the misconception that an e-fan is inherently better when the fact is: it's inherently worse.
If he's doing it for the rubber-chicken-factor, that's as good a reason as any.
Mine is going back in due to the $$$ factor - it's still cheaper for me to wire it into the new harness than to buy a new clutch. But when these fans die, it'll be cheaper to buy a clutch than to buy fans. When that happens, I'll just abandon the e-fan wiring in-place - it won't affect anything when the fans are removed.
...the new radiator, not even close to fitting it...
this was advertised as an oem replacement but so far its not, i mean it bolted in place great all the hoses and lines fit great but the shroud is a deffinet NO GO
...id rather not go threw the hassle of sending it back...
Returning it for the right radiator would be the logical thing to have done when you could. Now, the best fix is to find a shroud that fits that radiator (that's probably why the mfr. changed the mounting - because they sell a matching shroud), or just modify your shroud AND that radiator's mounting tabs so they match. It doesn't take 1/2" bolts to mount a shroud - zip ties are OK if they're black (temperature & UV resistant) and wide enough to take the weight. But it doesn't take much to drill new holes in the tabs for the original clips & bolts.
...all the manufacturers have switched to using electric...
They DIDN'T just slap an e-fan onto an old engine - they fully integrated the fan into the engine management system. It's like plugging an EFI fuel pump into a carb engine's tank and expecting to get the benefits of EFI from it - it doesn't work that way.
...id like to use a simpler factory like setup useing the "wet" thermostatic switch with a few fuses and a relay instead of complicating things with some fancy controller...
Try a JY - they're cheaper & sell higher-quality parts.