DTCs found...advise on procedure please - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locopny View Post
background vehicle 1995 F150 4.9L Manual trans.
from the first post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
Yo,
Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent). BTW I believe Seattle FSB mentioned that some use a different grease.

So, this is for a 90 4.9?

Special Notes:
On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.
On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. Location; "...screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump..." by Chris B.
On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.
The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)
When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle. miesk5 note, aka "goose test"
Ok...I don't know if there is any grease on the one in the truck now....on the one I replace there will be for sure. Glad you brought it to my attention.
I did the goose test....but not the steering operation....not sure I have the connector. Didn't do the Brake On/Off either. can redo the test

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #22 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 08:17 PM
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The TFI (ICM) should have a layer of heat sink compound between the module and the heatsink (either fender mounted or distributor mounted). The heat sink compound will help the TFI (ICM) transfer it's heat and help it run cooler. You can get heat sink compound at any computer parts store (or Radio Shack). Clean off all the old stuff first. One brand name for heat sink compound is Arctic Sliver, but any heat sink compound will be just fine.

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post #23 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 08:52 PM
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In order to get the ICM off of the heat sink, you will need a special tool available at the parts stores. Just tell them what you need and they will get it for you.

It looks like this.




If you want to order it online, heres one on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W1217-I...e+removal+tool


Also, if yours is Nasty corroded like every single one I have ever seen, you can take it somewhere (powder coating shops) and have them blast it clean for you. If you talk to them before hand, they should be able to do it while you wait. It wont take more than 5 mins. It will also help the contact area where the ICM sits if it is clean before you put on the new heat transfer compound.

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post #24 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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heat transfer compound same as silicone grease? Headed out to see if I can get parts today. A better running truck will be a nice birthday present to me.

I do appreciate the guidance on these codes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #25 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 12:12 PM
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post #26 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miesk5 View Post
Yo,
Sorry about me confusing the year, etc. I will copy a plea and blame it on a bad pain killer day.
no worries.

I got a ICM today...a BWD at OReillys.
I will get the heat compound at Napa in the morning. Tonight I'm just going to get it ready to assemble and finish up first thing in AM.

Best to clear all the codes and start fresh after replacing the ICM? or wait until later? trying to replace one thing at a time so I can figure out what is bad or causing the issue....I think this is wise, No?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #27 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 09:28 AM
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I always like to clear codes when I attempt a fix. If they are really chronic problems they will come right back anyway. Remove both battery cables, touch positive battery cable to the fender for 10 seconds and all the codes will be gone.

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post #28 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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wow didn't know this heat sink compound would be so unavailable near me. One to tow days out to get it in. We lost our Radio Shack awhile back...that store is now a Harley dealer.
Should I just put it together with dielectric and then clean it off when the other comes? or use some anti seize??? yeah that was suggested at a parts store.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #29 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Ok swapped out the ICM and made sure it was clean and used some heat sink compound. No change, but I will double check the timing now that it is replaced. Have yet to replace the O2 sensor...but it also hasn't been delivered yet.

Should I look into changing out the condenser off the coil? When doing points, I always did the condenser also. same concept right?

anyway....took a bit longer to get it done than I wanted...up at 7am Sunday morning and finally fell asleep at 7pm ish on Monday night. atleast I finally slept. This not sleeping is getting really old. I don't bounce back like I did 20 years ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #30 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 12:57 AM
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The condenser next to the coil is to reduce ignition noise in your radio (not to reduce arcing of the ignition points as in a points type ignition system). No real need to replace it.

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post #31 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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well here is what I know now.

codes cleared. have not re run code check.
Verified 10*BTDC timing (SpOut removed) and firing order correct...(due to lotta hours with no sleep)
double checked all more easily accessible vaccum lines for leaks.
Vaccum gauge hooked to intake reads a fairly steady 18-19" of vaccum (very small amount of needle movement less than 1/2 " of vaccum)

NO change in how its running.
Checking out ECM I guess next? and not sure what next.
will change out the O2 sensor as soon as it arrives.

Also my fuel pressure gauge is not working...the schrader valve in my adapter is missing..so it reads "0" will try to remedy that Thursday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #32 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-22-2016, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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ok here is what I know now the fuel pressure tester is fixed...fails with under pressure. engine off about 35 psi. engine running about 40 psi. clamp fuel line downstream of FPR and the pressure jumps to around 55psi. will replace the FPR on Monday when parts stores are open. maybe that is why the lean codes? in any case I'll retest pressure after the replacement. I have yet to do a compression test, but I think at this point it would be for a baseline.

on a side note..found an old alarm system wiring I'm pulling out. not real confident in the way it was installed with bare wires now showing. ugh...the quality of workmanship is mind blowing.

I need this truck to be dependable so that I can start in on some work on the Beater, and on my white horse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #33 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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I do believe that parts listings are occasionally wrong.

I got a pair of fuel pressure regulators from Oreilly Auto last week and finally go to change it tonight when I see the problem with buying parts without the original in hand when buying.

My motorcraft replacement is nothing like the one the computer says should fit my application. My BWD replacement will bolt up but doesn't look right either. So I look online myself and get yet another listing of one I don't have in hand. Talk about a frustration.

I was sold a BWD 22856P as a direct replacement for what I have in my rig...a Bosch with Ford part #F5TE9C968-BA. The Motorcraft one I was sold is F1de-9c968-Aa ( CM4763) but it is not able to bolt up at all.

I come up with a BWD 22873 when I look it up.

WTF?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #34 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 02:53 PM
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Yo,
This happens with other parts such as ICMs.. ask Seattle FSB
and vapor management valve (VMV) used 8n 96 that replaces the canister purge valve (used in EEC IV)... 96 workshop manual show the cpv in the 96, as does Chilton

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post #35 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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trying one more time....tomorrow morning after 9AM. Maybe it will be worth the roughly $120 its gonna cost....if it really fits and solves the problem. Not too bad for a holiday weekend and on a SUNDAY for delivery. Wow. Ford doesn't even carry it as its an obsolete part for them. I could replace the O2 sensor, but I want to do the FPR first to see if that corrects the Lean codes. I have motor mounts to replace also but don't have the energy after a day of prepping for concrete in the driveway.

While I wait, I figured out the rattle in my passenger door. A bottom track from a broken window resting in the lowest part of the door. So nice to have no more rattle. Also tackling the saggy headliner since the door was a fast fix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
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post #36 of 69 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok I changed the FPR and NO change was noticed. Still has low pressure or under pressure condition. I guess its time to check the pump for adequate flow. This is starting to irritate me. Mostly as it was an expensive part that likely wasn't needed to be changed....but was the next step following the repair manual procedure. Not unless the new part is faulty...but unlikely I think.
Truck is still running lean and I fear I could burn a valve or something.

I'm missing something. Start at the beginning? recheck my results?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
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post #37 of 69 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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well I think I found what I was missing. Borrowed the compression tester and discovered some disturbing numbers. Cylinders 1-6 are as follows.....140-100-25-25-135-135.
looks like a head gasket issue to me....but I still have to try the oil in cylinder and retest. Valves burned? wouldn't show this way? Seafoam treatment likely wouldn't fix this...but probably wouldn't hurt right...? (just not looking forward to a head removal) possible to lose a head gasket and not lose coolant? or slow enough to not notice...?

Not sure this would also cause an underpressure issue at the fuel injection system....even with the new FPR.

Spark plugs for 3 and 4 were pretty dark....when I started this they were not so much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
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post #38 of 69 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 11:17 AM
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keep at it, you'll get it figured out.

it's fun to do bad things

my "build" thread
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post #39 of 69 (permalink) Old 06-07-2016, 12:13 PM
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Yo,
readings for cylinders 3 & 4 indicate head gasket damaged between those two cylinders

"if a head gasket is blown... you ARE gonna' have oil mixed with coolant, and engine compression and/or combustion gases are going to be shooting out of the radiator... but sometimes this just doesn't happen"

BUT....

Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis 15-22 in-Hg in 96 Bronco Workshop Manual by Ford
Due to your good results, this rules out:
6. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic lash adjuster clearance will also cause this action.

14. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of approximately 33-50 kPa (10-15 in-Hg) can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped head-to-block mounting surface.


When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS SERVICE VACUUM LEAKS.


I have to go with the compression test.

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
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Last edited by miesk5; 06-07-2016 at 01:02 PM. Reason: Over wrote, "this rules out"
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post #40 of 69 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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I now have all the parts for the head gasket job....including new head bolts. I also added a code reader to my tool box so I don't have to count flashes anymore. Think it was cheap enough from Amazon or was it Ebay? and I got the extension cable so I can sit inside to read the codes.

I had let it sit since I was really busy until yesterday when I moved it to the shop to start the repair. I noticed that it was smoking some...sorta blue-ish....no white in it at all. So its burning oil and no coolant...right?


ON A SIDE NOTE: The PS pump/AC bracket from a 5.8L will not fit a 4.9L correct? Thinking a Sag. pump swap since I have one from my Bronco that I just pulled the motor out of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
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