DTCs found...advise on procedure please - Ford Bronco Forum
 4Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 03:19 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
DTCs found...advise on procedure please

I haven't had to work on this type of stuff for awhile and would like some diagnosis help for procedure.

background vehicle 1995 F150 4.9L Manual trans. 130K miles approx. It has issues for sure but the rough running and poor mileage are most important.
DTCs are KOER 171, 172, 213, 212, 225, and 411.

Yes the mileage is total crap and it runs rough like a miss and lacks power to get out of its own way. This is a recent development.
So far I have checked out the plugs (regapped and clean) Motorcraft Platinums. and changed the fuel filter as it couldn't hurt on a "new" vehicle. Has a clean K&N filter but no other known changes. {edit: swapped a known working idle air control with no change at all}

Plans are to do a compression test, a fuel pressure test, and a vacuum leak test. Am I missing anything for testing? I don't know everything that has been done by the former owner or his skill level. So I'm trying to start at zero on maintenance stuff.
Is there one I should do first? or not at all?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 03:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 666
Bronco Info: 1989 Bronco 5.0 AOD w/ 3G alt, more to come
iTrader: (0)
171 - Fuel system at adaptive limit, HEGO unable to switch, Bank 1
172 - HEGO sensor circuit indicates system lean - Bank 1
212 - Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded. (This is usually a CM code, not KOER)
213 - SPOUT circuit open (or not connected)
225 - Knock sensor signal not sensed during dynamic response test
411 - Cannot control RPM during KOER low RPM check.

At this point, since your truck is over 20 years old and you have no idea when it was last done, it's probably a good idea to replace the oxygen sensor. It's a wear item and it's supposed to be replaced every 60K or so. That should take care of the 171-172 unless there's something seriously mechanically wrong.

The 212-213 codes seem to indicate that the ignition module and ECU are not communicating - bad wiring, bad module, bad ECU.

225 could be because the computer couldn't get the ignition to advance during the knock test - since apparently it can't communicate with the ignition module at all, this isn't a surprise. You have to fix the cause of 212-213 before trying to solve this one.

411 means that the computer could not get the idle control valve/motor to make the engine idle like it wanted. Check wiring, check the IDM, check the ECU.
Fast Floyd likes this.
Spktyr is online now  
post #3 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spktyr View Post
At this point, since your truck is over 20 years old and you have no idea when it was last done, it's probably a good idea to replace the oxygen sensor. It's a wear item and it's supposed to be replaced every 60K or so. That should take care of the 171-172 unless there's something seriously mechanically wrong.
I'll give it some looking at...I bet there is a test I could do on it before I replace it. but I bet you are right about time to change it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spktyr View Post
The 212-213 codes seem to indicate that the ignition module and ECU are not communicating - bad wiring, bad module, bad ECU..
you are right...it was not in KOER codes...a miss-type. I can check these with a multi meter

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spktyr View Post
225 could be because the computer couldn't get the ignition to advance during the knock test - since apparently it can't communicate with the ignition module at all, this isn't a surprise. You have to fix the cause of 212-213 before trying to solve this one..
Well it doesn't ping....so I'm not too concerned but should I be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spktyr View Post
411 means that the computer could not get the idle control valve/motor to make the engine idle like it wanted. Check wiring, check the IDM, check the ECU.
AH....I did try a known working Idle control valve at the throttle body...and it didn't make a difference. Forgot that in the first post.

also I have a new cap and rotor and wires to install. Nice to have new stuff lying around waiting to use someday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
 
post #4 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
BTW...thanks for the rapid reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #5 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:04 PM
Registered User
 
rla2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,294
iTrader: (0)
Code 212.......what color Ignition Control Module is on the truck? It should be a black CCD-style. I suspect it has a gray Push-Start version because MANY part manuals are wrong. Regardless it has nothing to do with your Code 225, this usually not "goosing" the throttle enough during the KOER tests.

Code 213: Is the SPOUT plug in?

Suggestion: Start with the KOEO tests and CM code display first. Fix any codes there then move to the KOER tests.
Fast Floyd likes this.
rla2005 is offline  
post #6 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:28 PM
Thread Killa
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,883
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
iTrader: (2)
I agree with rla. You ICM issue is likely the wrong color. Parts stores have gotten this wrong for many years and it seems they are in no hurry to correct themselves. If you want to do some reading on the subject, here is the definitive thread.

Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules


One small caution about the HEGO, measure the lead on the oxygen sensor. Make sure the replacement has the same length lead. The direct replacement part I got for mine was about an inch shorter than the original. Its about 1/2 inch too short of connecting with the connector. Hopefully you wont have that issue.
Fast Floyd likes this.

1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is online now  
post #7 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:51 PM
Registered User
 
rla2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,294
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
One small caution about the HEGO, measure the lead on the oxygen sensor. Make sure the replacement has the same length lead. The direct replacement part I got for mine was about an inch shorter than the original. Its about 1/2 inch too short of connecting with the connector. Hopefully you wont have that issue.
You can typically fix that issue by removing the tape on the cable bundle and pulling out more wire for the HEGO. At least that is the case with the F-series trucks.
rla2005 is offline  
post #8 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 05:53 PM
Thread Killa
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,883
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
iTrader: (2)
Yea on mine it was a no go. The clamp was so tight on the cable you couldn't get it loose enough to adjust it. Once I got the engine out, I rebuilt my Battery cables and fixed that problem so there was much more slack in the Hego lead.

1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is online now  
post #9 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by rla2005 View Post
Code 212.......what color Ignition Control Module is on the truck? It should be a black CCD-style. I suspect it has a gray Push-Start version because MANY part manuals are wrong. Regardless it has nothing to do with your Code 225, this usually not "goosing" the throttle enough during the KOER tests.

Code 213: Is the SPOUT plug in?

Suggestion: Start with the KOEO tests and CM code display first. Fox any codes there then move to the KOER tests.
Not sure what color....will check and report. lots of info on this topic....time to clean the glasses and grab a drink haha.

I'm checking the SPOUT connection now...should be able to find that right off.

Thanks for the assistance all. Been too long since I dug into stuff this new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #10 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
I feel like a F'n newbie

I cant or haven't found the Ignition control module or the spout connector. both ought to be sorta near the distributor right?
Ill have to take a photo so I can feel really dumb when ya'll point it out to me..


nothing even close to this photo in THIS post.

and nothing like either of THESE on the distributor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #11 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 10:02 PM
Thread Killa
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,883
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
iTrader: (2)
Your just looking where they would be on your 90 bronco. They were relocated in 93 or 94. The TFI module is on the Drivers side fender below the cruise control module.

The spout is right next to it (capped off plug)




Also note the one in the picture is Grey. He likely also has the 212 DTC indicated.

It should be Black like mine...

1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is online now  
post #12 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 10:12 PM
gone fish'n
 
jopes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Maggie's Nipples, Wyoming
Posts: 23,658
Bronco Info: pile of parts
iTrader: (4)
All that room with a I6 in there you should see it easily.

'01 F250, 444ci of straight piped oil burning fun. 4x4, 6 spd, GTP38R noise maker, Stage 2 injektorz. Lotsa fun!


Let's Go Fishing.
jopes is online now  
post #13 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
I did some searching and came up with some locations to look at....

I don't feel as stupid now...no where near smart, but not the kid at the back of the class rolling glue buggers to eat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #14 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
Its a grey one (a motorcraft one-maybe original??)....and the SPOUT is connected.

I guess I'll start looking for a black one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #15 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jopes View Post
All that room with a I6 in there you should see it easily.
you would think so..but it was buried under the cruise control thing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #16 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 07:20 AM
Thread Killa
 
jowens1126's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 8,883
Bronco Info: 1994 Bronco Eddie Bauer edition, 302 MAF, E4OD
iTrader: (2)
I loved my F150 with the 6 cyl. It pulled the boat just as good as my dads 350ci chevy he had at the time.

1994 EB Bronco, 302 MAF, E4OD, BW1356, Slightly Customized Interior
"Demanding something free on top of a discount is just being a Democrat. - Steve83"

My Build Thread - http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...d.php?t=191067
jowens1126 is online now  
post #17 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 08:18 AM
Registered User
 
rla2005's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 1,294
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by locopny View Post
Its a grey one (a motorcraft one-maybe original??)....and the SPOUT is connected.

I guess I'll start looking for a black one.
Remote Mount Black CCD "Computer Controlled Dwell" ICM
Ford Bronco - Wiring Schematic

Motorcraft - DY1077 (supercedes DY679, DY667, DY645)
Ford - 5U2Z-12A297-D (supercedes F1PZ-12A297-A)
Wells - F139
Niehoff - FF413
BWD - CBE40
Standard - LX-241
NapaEchlin - TP29
Delphi - DS10056
Transpo - FM544

Cut from this write-up by Seattle FSB: Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules
rla2005 is offline  
post #18 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
 
locopny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: 58436 ND
Posts: 5,289
Bronco Info: 90 7.3IDI/ZF5/tons. 66 5.0/AOD. 90beater SAS/5.8/e4od
iTrader: (27)
Garage
until I can get one, is there any reason I must have that ICM bolted in place on the fender? I'd just be driving it at a minimum..
I'm going to try a couple places on Sunday in a bigger town. Maybe can get an O2 sensor also...

the 171, 172, and 212 codes (and a 522 because someone forgot to take it out of gear d'oh) were in the first set of codes KOEO/CM ...then in the KOER was the 213, 225, and 411

Quote:
Originally Posted by 90Beater View Post
2 spares?? Are you sure thats gonna be enough????
Proud to be politically incorrect.
66 EB 5.0-AOD; 90 Locopny 7.3IDI-ZF 5-D60-10.25; 90Beater(2.0)5.8L-E4OD-SAS-14B; 95 Happy2 F150-4.9L-M5OD; F250SD 7.3-Auto CCLB
locopny is offline  
post #19 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 03:50 PM
Moderator
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 17,562
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
iTrader: (2)
Garage
Yo,
Coat the TFI module baseplate with a thin layer of silicone grease (FD7AZ-19A331-A or its equivalent). BTW I believe Seattle FSB mentioned that some use a different grease.

So, this is for a 90 4.9? Ford went from two-digit to three-digit EEC IV Self-Test codes in 1991 to service the increasing number of service codes required to support various government On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) regulations. The phase-in from two-digit to three-digit codes started in the 1991 model year and is largely complete except for some medium/heavy trucks that will retain two digit codes through the 1994 model year.

DTC 225 - Knock Sensor (KS) signal not sensed during dynamic response test (ignore if not pinging) ... Engine Running Self-Test
Special Notes:
On vehicles equipped with the Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit, the brake pedal MUST be depressed and released AFTER the ID code.
On vehicles equipped with the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch, within 1 to 2 seconds after the ID code, the steering wheel must be turned at least one-half turn and released. Location; "...screwed into the high pressure port of the PS pump..." by Chris B.
On vehicles equipped with E4OD transmission, the Transmission Control Switch (TCS) must be cycled after the ID code.
The Dynamic Response code is a single pulse (or a 10 code on the STAR Tester) that occurs 6-20 seconds after the engine running identification code. (See Code Output Format in this section.)
When/if the Dynamic Response code occurs, perform a brief wide open throttle. miesk5 note, aka "goose test"

DTC 411 Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high); "...DTC 411 indicates a dirty/ bad or connector issue w/Idle Air Control valve (IAC). inspect it for crapola. Some can be cleaned. But our's shouldn't since the TSB says; "...Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years...." in Idle Air Control (IAC) Sludge; Poor Idle TSB 91-25-07 for 85-92 Bronco & F Series & many others; "...Hard cold starts, hesitation and stalls on initial start-up or during idle or decel may be caused by sludge in the throttle body and/or idle by-pass valve. Sludge deposits or oil film on the throttle body bore and plate or the idle air by-pass valve may cause one or more of the following conditions. Hard Cold Start, Stall On Initial Start-Up, Stall During Idle, Stall During Decel, Rough Idle, Rolling Idle, Hesitation During Acceleration. A new idle air by-pass service kit (F2PZ-9F939-A) is now available for service use to correct sludge contamination concerns of the throttle bore and plate only. It eliminates the need to clean the majority of past model throttle body applications. Cleaning is not required on sludge tolerant throttle body designs released for 1991 and newer model years..."
Source: by miesk5 at FSB Check engine light, pulled codes.
This is by Nelbur; "I have spent some time this week trying to set up an air bypass around the IAC valve by cutting away some of the gasket between the IAC in and out air holes, rather than pay big bucks for Fords spacer kit. I cut away the center of the original IAC gasket from the outside of each hole to the outside of the other hole, giving about 1/2" gap for the air to pass through. I noticed an immediate improvement in the engines starting behavior, but it would still die occasionally.

For most of my trucks life it has been dying when it was started hot. It would rev up and then drop the idle so low it would die unless I would catch the idle with the accelerator. It would never die when cold as the IAC would keep the idle speed up, and it never died at stop lights. Now it's worst situation seems to be when it has been shut down for a half hour or so, and restarted. I wonder if the heat soak is fooling the ETC into thinking the engine is warmer than it really is.

I decided that more improvement could be had if I had a thicker gasket, because the original IAC gasket was very thin (0.018"). I had some 0.030" gasket material so I made my own with the same 1/2" cut out. This gave enough bypass to noticeably raise the idle speed and almost eliminate the dying. After maybe 50 starts in the last few days, it only died twice. After so many years of catching it with the accelerator it is darned hard to leave my foot off it. It is clear to me that by trial and error one can tune the air bypass without the need for the expensive Ford kit. I may combine the two gaskets for more bypass, but the idle is about as fast as I would want now, especially for driving in snow."
--------
IAC Overview & Testing; "First let me say this little thing has many names. But they all talk about the same item under the hood. Here all the names I’ve had the torture of learning throughout the years: Idle Air Bypass •Idle Air Control •Idle Speed Control •Throttle Bypass Air •Idle Bypass •Inlet Air Controller •Inlet Air Bypass •Intake Air Bypass •Intake Air Control..."
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)
an excerpt by Ryan; "...If you get a code that points to a problem with the IAB start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB. If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection.

The IAB can pass and still need repair, or it can fail and not need replacing. The plunger and internal spring can get clogged with dirt and oil. This will slow down the air flow and not allow the IAB to function properly. Remove the IAB and clean it. There are 2 halves to the IAB, and you can not buy just one half, but you can take it apart to clean it. But if the internal solenoid is faulty the IAB needs to be replaced..."

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
miesk5 is offline  
post #20 of 69 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 04:03 PM
Moderator
 
miesk5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: NJ
Posts: 17,562
Bronco Info: 96 Bronco XL 5.0 E4OD, Man Xfer/Hubs
iTrader: (2)
Garage
Yo,

DTC 41, 42, 91, 92, 136, 137,139, 144, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 177 & some Possible Causes for Rich & Lean HEGO The engine temperature must be greater than 50°F (10°C) to pass the KOEO Self-Test and greater than 180°F (82°C) to pass the KOER Self-Test. To accomplish this, the engine should be at normal operating temperature
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50)

FSB
DTC 172 lean Heated O2; "...Backprobe the MAF (+) and MAF-RTN (-) lines with a DVOM. You should see ~1.0V or slightly less at warm idle. If not, check the +12V and GND lines to make sure there's battery voltage between those terminals with the ignition key turned ON. You also may want to try using the proper spray cleaner on the MAF wires, especially if you have a K&N oily filter (in which case I can almost guarantee there's oily junk on your MAF's wires). Also make certain that the tube(s) leading from the MAF to the throttle body are 100% intact. The red wire (on the right in the first above picture) is supposed to have battery voltage with the key on. Measure between that wire and the one right next to it. You measure the MAF voltage at idle, because the MAF voltage is what's interpreted by the PCM..."
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at FSB

DTC 172, 173 or 41 for HO2S Failure Or Fuse \"E\" Inoperative, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, Daytime Running Lamp (DRL) Inoperative, MIL On, Inadvertent Self-Test, Speedometer Inoperative & Trailer Battery Charge Relay Inoperative in TSB 95-5-21 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series; "...the HO2S wires in the 12A690 (subassembly of the 14B060 battery cable) harness may become chafed and the vehicle could exhibit any one of the following conditions....Lack of proper HEGO operation may cause, or be the result of a rich or lean fuel condition, which could cause additional heat in the catalyst. Perform self test KOEO and KOER, service any codes. CHECK FOR PROPER HEGO GROUND. If the HEGO ground is good, the following areas may be at fault: ..." READ MORE
Source: by Ford via Steve83
1983 Ford Bronco TSBs & FSAs (Recalls) for '83-96 Broncos & F150s picture | SuperMotors.net

DTC 212; "...IDM is a feedback signal generated by the ignition system and is monitored at pin #4 of the ECM. Its purpose is to diagnose missed ignition primary pulses at the time the ECM commands the Spout signal to fire the coil. Since it is used solely for diagnostic purposes, if this circuit is not operating properly, it will not affect vehicle driveability; & by Seattle FSB- The Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal is a diagnostic signal for the PCM to to verify a coil firing for each PIP signal. If an erratic or missing IDM signal is received, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC 212) is set. An occasional IDM signal may not affect drivability, but can still throw a trouble code. As SigEpBlue has stated, check for an intermittent ground on the spOUT and/or IDM circuit. Also, ensure that you have the correct Ignition Control Module (ICM) and it is wired correctly to the PCM..." miesk5 NOTE; use BLACK modules in 1994-1996 Broncos
Source: by SMP via SigEpBlue (Steve) & by Seattle FSB (SeattleFSB) at '94 code 212 mystery IDM Resistor ???

DTC 212 (Ignition module circuit failure-SPOUT circuit grounded); "...Check to see if the spout connector is good by running a piece of wire where the connector is supposed to go. If that doesn't help any try checking the wiring all the way until it goes into the connectors..."

See my partially recovered Bronco web site ...Will need to clean up dead links & add many more new links some day. Thanks to Mr. Schwim!
THANKS to ALL WHO SERVE!
miesk5 is offline  
Reply

  Ford Bronco Forum > Bronco Discussions > 1980-'96 Bronco Tech

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Bronco Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. DO NOT USE Gmail.com accounts. If you only have a Gmail.com email please contact the administrator here

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome