Dual Battery Setup 92-96 - Page 2 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #21 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewgoetz View Post
I did my setup pretty much the same way. I used a square tubing for the spacer on mine.



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where did you get your dual battery cables from?

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post #22 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-27-2016, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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you can get those stinger cable ends from amazon.

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post #23 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-28-2016, 01:21 AM
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Nice set up !

This happens to be on my 'to-do' list.
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post #24 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 10:10 PM
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Dual Battery Setup 92-96

Man that's an expensive and complicated set up. Did I count 13 different connections? That makes more chances for a bad connection or corrosion.

I would just get a painless dual batt wiring setup. It only has 4 connections or 6 total with breakers and from in the cab you can choose to use your main batt and isolates the secondary batt. Or flip the switch up and it ties the two together, when the bronco is on/running only. Or flip it down and it isolates the main from the secondary and only uses the secondary.

That's what I and gadawgz71 use and it works great. It also keeps you from killing both batts.


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post #25 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 08:59 AM Thread Starter
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just a work in progress. It is expensive though.
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post #26 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 10:58 AM
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Soldered brass terminals, and dialectic grease goes a long way in preventing the whites scuz from building up. Those clamp on battery terminals are just plain junk and cause a voltage drop from day one.
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post #27 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 11:07 AM
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I hope you didn't take it the wrong way. Love your build/truck. With electrical it's better to keep it simple.
Also remember with batteries, they will have to come back out one day. So keep that in mind when building and laying out your set up.

Here's my 2cents for what you have picked out

I would run 2 XS batteries, the ruffstuff box, painless dual battery kit, mechman atl(Heard good things about them but never had one) buy some bulk red and black 0 gauge or 0/1wire and lugs and heat shrink to make all your cables with.


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post #28 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thats pretty much the plan. The damn batteries are $300 a piece. I just wanted the switch for flexibility, it might be more trouble than its worth, but I have had almost the exact same setup on the last 3 boats I have owned and never had any issues.

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post #29 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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I have been over at the car audio forum the last few days working out the details of the dual battery system with those guys. They are pretty sharp. I pretty much have it all worked out now. Im trashing the Isolator since both batteries are AGM and about the same capacity. I also eliminated the circuit breakers and a few feet of cable and a few connections. So this should be a bit less complex, even though its still is fairly complex. The Big difference is, I am running 2 1/0 Amp Leads to the rear amp Box to feed power to the system. Doubling up the leads give you way less voltage drop and helps provide maximum power when its needed.

So Heres the new layout.




I think this will work out much better in the long run.

I am considering doing the main 1/0 Wire run under the vehicle. I found some really cool Wire Management Clips for the 1/0 that should work great. One of these every couple of feet and a foot of shrink wrap in between each clip should make for a neat installation.



If I dont take that option, I found some really cool Firewall Grommets for 1/0 as well. I just am concerned I wont be able to hide the wire well if I run it inside.


I have also spent the better part of today drawing up the amp rack. Its going to be built into the back of the sub cabinet. The back wall of the sub cabinet and the floor will be 2 1/2" Thick so not much heavy vibration will travel thru that. I will also have the amps mounted on vibration isolator feet just to be safe. The Amp Rack will have a plexi glass window so you can see all the amps and the wiring. Im thinking about having something cool CNC cut into the plexi like "FORD BRONCO" to give it a nice custom touch. The box has 3 puller fans and 3 pusher fans to let the enclosure breath and keep the amps cool. All the fans will be on a thermostat to control them. All Of the wiring for the entire system will be self contained inside the box, and it will serve as a control center for the system. I will probably end up mounting a voltage meter in there somewhere too off the extra power lug. The amps will be internally grounded inside the box. Im using the existing back seat 7/8" Bolts that mount the rear seat retainer as a hold down and grounding point. Im going to get a 8"x4"x1/4" Steel Plate Cut and have two 1/2" Studs Stud welded to it for grounding lugs. It should provide as good a ground as you can get that way. Overall I think this is going to look cool as hell.



Nice to know I haven't forgotten how to use CAD.

The front of the cabinet will look something like this but will have a slot port opposite the speaker on the other end.



Its also not going to be carpeted. The builder is going to coat the outside with Second Skin Spectrum. I think it looks way better than carpet, and wont ever get Fuzzy. Inside the amp cabinet will be painted white.

Heres a Cabinet in the Second Skin. I love this look. This is a bad ass Dual 8" sub that absolutely Slams.
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post #30 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 06:17 PM
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damn dude... you're gonna have to make a new build thread for all that fancy ass system.
suppose I could rename the thread title for you... to add the audio work, if you'd prefer.

the Bronco audiophiles are gonna worship you.

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post #31 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 06:26 PM
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My radio is made by header dump Inc.
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post #32 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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I will make a new Audio thread. when I get further along and out of the planning stage and into the execution stage.


One of the goto guys over at the SMD forum noticed something that sunk this design. So I am killing the switch and just going to a stock parallel setup. I probably should have gone that route anyway.
Since in the above diagram, the batteries are connected at the Alternator Fuse, they will always stay connected, so no matter which position the switch is in, it will draw power from both batteries. So the switch is out and im going conventional. Oh well, it was worth a shot. It would have worked great with the isolator though. But there are too many drawbacks to the isolator to use it. The guy at Mechman said that over-volting the voltage regulator to compensate for the 1 volt loss of the isolator will put a continuous strain on the regulator circuit and it will fail prematurely. Thats why the isolator is out. It would be fine to run that way on a stock Alternator but the Higher amp models are apparently more finicky.

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post #33 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 07:27 PM
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I'm totally down with the K.I.S.S. method... Keep It Simple Stupid! But... I'm kinda stupid, so...

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post #34 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Final Revision (for the moment)

Well I stripped it down to the simplest possible setup. This will reduce the overall cost considerably, which is a good thing.

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post #35 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-06-2017, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Crunching the numbers it came out a little better than the original estimate.

Its still damn expensive though. The Big 3 are the expensive part. 2 Batteries and the Alternator. that accounts for almost $900 of the total..

The other parts come to about $290 for everything else. Grand Total of $1190.

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post #36 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 01:46 AM
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post #37 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 02:56 AM
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Wanting at least one 24v winch I may have to take this route, a dual battery set up.

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post #38 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 02:38 PM
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Many alternators can be killed if the charging line is disconnected, as the voltage jumps up and kills the regulator. Some have a current dump to protect the alternator. Check to see if yours can be damaged by an open in the charging line. If it can, I would eliminate the fuse in the charging line. The same goes for your earlier designs where breakers and switches could dead end the charging current.

I am more familiar with dual battery setups in boats. There, the charging line would typically go directly to one battery, and a combiner would be used to combine the two batteries when charging is happening. When the voltage drops below about 13.3 volts the combiner separates the batteries. In your latest set up your two batteries will likely die together. If you separated them and attached a combiner between them they would be independent. A combiner is also called a charge relay. Isolators are seldom used anymore on boats because of the voltage drop they cause and the fancyness needed to correct for it.
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post #39 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 03:12 PM
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I too had dual batteries on my boat. I used a combiner/isolater between the batteries so no matter how much I ran the livewell/fishfinder/compass/lights, etc. I would always have a battery to start the boat motor. It's tough to ask someone for a jump in the middle of Lake Erie.
The combiner/isolator I had was called a "BattMaxx", made by Wells Marine. They are still in business and seem to be still making a similar product. The device also has a button that allows you to combine both batteries in the rare case you need the power from BOTH batteries at the same time.
The diode isolators have an inherent 0.7v drop (as @nelbur above mentioned above). Those diode isolators REQUIRE an adjustable regulator to increase the voltage to overcome the 0.7v drop. Most vehicle alternator regulators are not adjustable.
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post #40 of 43 (permalink) Old 01-07-2017, 05:35 PM
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