Dual Battery Setup 92-96 - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Dual Battery Setup 92-96

Now that I am gainfully employed, I can start working on the Bronco again. One of the big projects I will be working on in the next month or so will be converting over to a Dual Battery setup and increasing my Alternator size. I have been working all day sourcing parts and drawing it all out and I thought I would post it up here for comments. The main point of this particular set up to have 2 batteries. I can select either battery to start the truck. I also have a Battery Isolator to keep the charging circuit seperate for each battery. The Main Cranking battery will ONLY start the truck. The Secondary Battery will be a Deep Cycle AGM Battery specifically designed for high powered Stereo operation and depending on the position of the switch will either start the truck and power the accessories or just power the accessories. So here is my design so far.




How this system works:

The alternator sends out a maximum of 240 amps which feeds into the Isolator. The Isolator contains 2 high amp diodes that split the amperage in half, sending a maximum of 120 amps to each output terminal. There is a 1 volt drop across the isolator circuitry, so the A Terminal Voltage sensing wire from the alternator is attached to the output of the primary battery side of the isolator. This will allow the alternator's regulator to account for the voltage drop of the isolator and put enough voltage to the isolator to compensate for its 1 volt drain. Each output terminal of the isolator feeds thru 150 amp breakers. The breakers feed to the battery switch inputs. Each Battery connects its positive terminal to the corresponding input on the battery switch as well. The output of the battery switch connects to the Starter relay on the fender. This allows each battery to be selected to start the truck, or you can select both to start as well. This does not interfere with the charging circuit since the battery and the charge output connect to the same terminal for each battery. The secondary Battery input terminal on the battery switch also connects to the distribution block for the Amps and gets constant power directly from the battery/alternator. The Amp feed will always get power regardless of which battery the switch is selected to.


This system will use the following parts.

Main Battery - Northstar NSB-AGM-34/78 Battery - $297



Sencondary Deep Cycle Battery - XS Power D3400 - Group 34 - Deep Cycle with 3300 AMPS Max output - $270
12V BCI Group 34 AGM Battery, Max Amps 3,300A, CA: 1000 Ah: 65, 2500W / 4000W


Ruff Stuff Group 34 Dual Battery Tray - $85


Alternator - Mechman 240amp T-mount Ford Alternator (Made in the USA) - $350


Isolator - Sure Power 240amp dual battery isolator - $110


Megafuse Holder - New Bolt Mega Fuse and holder 275amp - $17


Circuit Breaker (2) - on each battery lead after the isolator. - $21 x 2


Perko Switch - 8504DP - 250amp switch - $60.17
I found some great information on the load rating on these. Apparently the rating has to do with its explosion proof rating. It will handle a continuous 250 amp load for 15 mins without producing a Arc. So I doubt that will ever happen so I should be able to get by with a standard duty switch instead of the more expensive heavy duty switch. Plus this model locks in the off position, so If I leave town, I can pop the hood, lock the battery switch in the off position and i doubt anyone would be able to steal the truck very easily.


I will probably mount the battery switch with some tamper proof fasteners like these ultra lock screws. That will blow everyones mind.


Power Distribution Block - Marinco 650amp distribution block - $54


Amp Distribution Block - Stinger SHD820 - $29.95


Wiring - #000 AWG alternator to Isolator - $15

Wiring - #1 AWG Isolator to Battery - $20

Wiring - #0 AWG Battery 2 to Battery switch and Distribution Block - $15

Wiring - #0 AWG Wiring Distribution Block to Rear Vehicle AMP Distribution Block - $30



Total System Price = $1412

Crap thats expensive, but I have need for alot of power so its the only way, and I hate doing things half ass and I definitely dont use cheap stuff.

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post #2 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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I need the power for my stereo, im going to be running about 3500 watts and I dont want the headlights to blink.

Also at some point im going to add some lights.

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post #3 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:02 PM
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what's the scoop on that alternator? why so $$$?
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post #4 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-24-2016, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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its american made. all american made alternators are stupid expensive, but they last.

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post #5 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post

Crap thats expensive, but I have need for alot of power so its the only way, and I hate doing things half ass and I definitely dont use cheap stuff.
I hear you on the $. I just got done with mine and its was only a fraction of what you have planned. I also totally agree on not doing electrical halfassed. Too much risk.

I don't have any comments on the design, looks solid to me. Just a comment on the battery tray. I used the RuffStuff battery tray and while it might be a bit pricey, it was worth it to me. It fits perfectly in the space, easy to install, and is rock solid.

I can't wait to see it all installed for you!

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post #6 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bronco View Post

I don't have any comments on the design, looks solid to me. Just a comment on the battery tray. I used the RuffStuff battery tray and while it might be a bit pricey, it was worth it to me. It fits perfectly in the space, easy to install, and is rock solid.
How did you secure the Tray to the truck? I was looking at it and I didnt see any obvious anchor holes, I have been thinking about that this morning and was hoping someone who has used one would have some pictures of that.

I cant wait to get started on it. Since its quite a bit of money, It will take me a few months to get that much money set aside so the wife wont notice it. She would have kittens if I told her how expensive this project is. lol I will just start collecting parts a couple pieces per pay check till I have it all.

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post #7 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
How did you secure the Tray to the truck? I was looking at it and I didnt see any obvious anchor holes, I have been thinking about that this morning and was hoping someone who has used one would have some pictures of that.
Here are the tray mounting points (arrows) after removing the factory tray:


The tray does not come with any pre drilled mounting points so I measured in both directions on the RuffStuff Tray, then drilled out these bolt holes (Arrows) to line up with factory holes. Note: my Optima's have a cavity on the bottom side that lines up with these bolts. If your battery are flat on the bottom, this solution won't work because the battery will not sit flat on the tray:


The side mounting point was a little more challenging as it sits about 1" away from the fender. I have seen some people use a steel tub that spans the entire tray and they mount to that. I opted to make this spacer:


You can see it attached here to the same hole that they factory support arm was attached to. I yanked and tugged and tried to move the tray, but its rock solid in there:


I hope that helps.

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
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post #8 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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That makes perfect sense. I think I may use some counter sunk bolts for the bottom mount so the battery doesnt wobble. Other than that, that is exactly what I was looking for.

How did you wire your system up? Did you just connect them in parallel? Or did you use a Isolator of some kind?
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post #9 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jowens1126 View Post
That makes perfect sense. I think I may use some counter sunk bolts for the bottom mount so the battery doesnt wobble. Other than that, that is exactly what I was looking for.

How did you wire your system up? Did you just connect them in parallel? Or did you use a Isolator of some kind?
I went back and forth on how I wanted to wire my system- many times. I even bought an isolator. In the end I wired them in parallel (for now). As I continue to add and change my electrical needs I may go back and put in the isolator.

1996 Eddie Bauer 351W/E40D/Dana 44, TTB R 8.8 (4.56 F&R), 6" Lift, 35x13.50 Toyo MTs, sag PS, 1 ton brakes, off-road bumpers, Warn 15K, Edelbrock intakes, lots 'O lights.
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post #10 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.

I looked at all manner of Isolators. The one I linked above seems to be the best available. The Solenoid types dont seem to be nearly as reliable and get very hot.

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post #11 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 05:46 PM
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Can't wait to see it when it's done!

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post #12 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-25-2016, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96bronco View Post
Here are the tray mounting points (arrows) after removing the factory tray:


The tray does not come with any pre drilled mounting points so I measured in both directions on the RuffStuff Tray, then drilled out these bolt holes (Arrows) to line up with factory holes. Note: my Optima's have a cavity on the bottom side that lines up with these bolts. If your battery are flat on the bottom, this solution won't work because the battery will not sit flat on the tray:


The side mounting point was a little more challenging as it sits about 1" away from the fender. I have seen some people use a steel tub that spans the entire tray and they mount to that. I opted to make this spacer:


You can see it attached here to the same hole that they factory support arm was attached to. I yanked and tugged and tried to move the tray, but its rock solid in there:


I hope that helps.
I did my setup pretty much the same way. I used a square tubing for the spacer on mine.



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post #13 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 12:18 AM
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good stuff.

if it matters at all... I have a very similar breaker installed in the '73 plow-beast and I really like it.
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post #14 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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The Isolator people recommended using Breakers instead of mega fuses so I thought I would give that a try. They are easy enough to reset.
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post #15 of 43 (permalink) Old 11-26-2016, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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I need to think about what I am going to move to get some room to make all this stuff fit. Maybe I can do something with the smog pump inlet muffler.

If I can relocate the vacuum reservoir and the smog pump inlet muffler, then I should be able to fit the isolator, the breakers and the megafuses on top of the inner wheel well. Then I can Mount the Perko Switch right next to the starter relay.

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post #16 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 11:53 AM
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Just some thoughts on your setup.

240 amp alternator running through 150 amp breakers?
150 amp breakers before a 175 amp fuse?
The switch in ALL will make the isolator ineffective. Putting the positive of both batteries on both circuits.

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post #17 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-02-2016, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Just some thoughts on your setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WasACop3436 View Post
240 amp alternator running through 150 amp breakers?
Yep, the isolator splits the charging amperage in half for each feed to the battery, so each side of the isolator only gets a maximum of 50% of the alternator load. So If something burns up in the alternator and it starts spewing out crazy amperage it will trip the breaker before burning up the battery.

You can see here in the chart supplied by the manufacturer that each output leg of the isolator requires a 150 amp breaker.


Note the suggested wire size of #000 AWG is for the alternator output to the isolator. The output side of the isolator gets #1 AWG wire.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WasACop3436 View Post
150 amp breakers before a 175 amp fuse?
The breakers only come into play in the charging direction, they dont flow both ways.
The 175 amp fuse feeds the amp power supply directly from the secondary battery. With the load I am running I should never go over 150 amps, but if something crazy happens like the power cable comes loose in the cab and contacts the body it will blow the fuse instead of catching on fire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WasACop3436 View Post
The switch in ALL will make the isolator ineffective. Putting the positive of both batteries on both circuits.
The switch has no effect on the charging circuit. The Isolator is nothing but a couple of high amp diodes that only flow current in one direction, toward the battery. The switch doesnt come into play in the charging circuit at all.

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post #18 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
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Yep, the isolator splits the charging amperage in half for each feed to the battery, so each side of the isolator only gets a maximum of 50% of the alternator load. So If something burns up in the alternator and it starts spewing out crazy amperage it will trip the breaker before burning up the battery.

You can see here in the chart supplied by the manufacturer that each output leg of the isolator requires a 150 amp breaker.


Note the suggested wire size of #000 AWG is for the alternator output to the isolator. The output side of the isolator gets #1 AWG wire.



The breakers only come into play in the charging direction, they dont flow both ways.
The 175 amp fuse feeds the amp power supply directly from the secondary battery. With the load I am running I should never go over 150 amps, but if something crazy happens like the power cable comes loose in the cab and contacts the body it will blow the fuse instead of catching on fire.



The switch has no effect on the charging circuit. The Isolator is nothing but a couple of high amp diodes that only flow current in one direction, toward the battery. The switch doesnt come into play in the charging circuit at all.
It is very obvious you have done a lot more research than I have. I also have dual batteries but they are for a winch. (actually my stereo doesn't even work right now)

In regards to the switch in ALL, it will be like connecting the positives together, the batteries will try to balance each other out and your stereo and starter will pull off of both batteries. You can run the truck in OFF and all you wouldn't be able to do is start it...That is all. Oh, and as an alternate location for the switch, Mine is mounted to the floor on the door side of the drivers seat. Jump out of the truck, flip the switch.

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post #19 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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I dont ever anticipate having to run the switch in ALL, except in an extreme emergency situation, and I would never try to run it in the off position either. As far as mounting location, under the hood is fine for me. I dont need access to it from in the cab, its more of a emergency situation device I will probably never use, and a security device for when it sits for 3 or 4 months unused. I put alot of research into this setup and talked to each manufacturer. This is also almost exactly the setup I had in my boat a few years ago.

Happy mud slinging!

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post #20 of 43 (permalink) Old 12-03-2016, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Ive been thinking how I can lay this out in the truck, and make the wiring runs as short as possible. I think I may see if I can cut a piece of 1/4" Lexan and mount it to the battery tray, then mount the Perko Switch to that. That should make the switching cables pretty short. All of these components are drawn to scale so this should be pretty much how it looks.




Then for the Isolator and fuses and breakers, I can do a similar thing. Cut a 1/4" x 12" x 12" piece of Lexan to mount all that too, then mount it where the Smog pump inlet is currently located. I just need to relocate the smog pump inlet to another spot, and maybe relocate the vacuum reservoir. Shouldnt be too much trouble. Then all these cables would be really short too and the whole system will be compact. I think theres enough room to make this work.


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