Engine swap... - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Engine swap...

Hey guys. I've searched and read a bazillion posts and now my brain is fried. I have a 90 fsb 5.8 flat tappet sd with the e4od. The motor is shot and i found a 94 roller with gt40 heads for a good price. Does anyone KNOW what else needs to be replaced in order to make sure it runs ok??? I plan on keeping it relatively stock for now, may do a maf conversion later.
I,ve read a lot of conflicting advice so im not sure what all needs to be swpped. Was looking for advice from someone who might have done it already.
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post #2 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 07:01 PM
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Not sure what cam is installed in the later GT40 engines but I believe they were all HO so the firing sequence is different.
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post #3 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 07:38 PM
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Does the roller motor come with a distributor?

Because you'll need a distributor with a steel gear. Your 90 distributor has an iron gear.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!
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post #4 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick responses fellas. The engine is a 94 roller block with gt40 add on heads, they werent manufactured together.
Ok, i assume i can get a steel gear for the dist...or should i just get a fresh unit.?
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post #5 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-16-2016, 11:00 PM
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Steel gear swap is ok on your original Dizzy, might do bushings for kick while you have it out. Get a new hardened roll pin if the gear does not come with the gear and the thrust washer on top of the gear. I would try to verify exactly what cam is in there if possible just to prevent further nightmares after installation, maybe the seller could give some info in that respect. A Fivology MAF kit would get you where you want to be for a total update. Just because it is a roller block does not guarantee it is actually a roller cam as they are interchangeable across the entire Windsor family from 289 all the way up to 351 ranging from the early 60 all the way up into 2001 or so.
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post #6 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. Thanks 445.

Yeah, i will eventually get around to the maf swap...i just cant justify paying someone that much for something i can make myself. Lol. Im a spark chaser by trade, building a harness isnt beyond my ability as i work on and/or build aircraft harnesses every day. I just need a schematic of some sort and hardware. But thats in the future. As for now i just want to get this ****er running. Im not a mechanic by any means but, i have an idea about whats going on...im just fuzzy on specifics mechanically, so any input is welcome.!! =)
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post #7 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 12:42 AM Thread Starter
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And yes, it has roller lifters. If that helps.

Im also wondering if my alternator will bolt up. Mine is a front mount, but the 94 is a side mount from what i gather. But, the 94 is on a bracket with the air pump...wondering if i can just trash all of the smog stuff and mount with a regular front mount?? There are no inspections here. I know i"ll have to requisite a different lenght belt doing so. Any idea??
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post #8 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 05:04 AM
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All your stuff will bolt up to the block. Remove the brackets off the 94, install your brackets and everything else of yours will bolt right up.

Roller lifters means steel roller cam. Which means you need the steel gear too. Using your cast iron gear will gernade that new motor.
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post #9 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 05:31 AM
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I know what you mean about wiring it yourself but the issue I ran into was by the time I sourced all the parts and connectors along with a PCM it was going to cost the same. The SN95 PCM is kinda hard to find in a JY and I wanted new stuff anyhow. The engine harness for injectors and sensors needs to be all replaced and the old stuff either removed or cut. Another reason I went the way I did is I ditched the auto and went stick which meant even more connectors and removal of the AOD wiring so I now have all the components for factory connectors, individually they are kind of costly. Wiring was easy enough though mainly because I did environmental commercial controls for most my working life along with being an auto tech and industrial maintenance mechanic. I wire by circuit not color so I understand order of sequence and resistive logic circuits pretty well.

Last edited by 445 FE Bronco; 12-17-2016 at 05:34 AM.
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post #10 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, great. Im going to try to squeeze the new motor in over christmas break, im just trying to avoid hangups. Thanks for the responses.

Anyone have any recommendations for gasket sets.?
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post #11 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 09:47 PM
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I like the felpro pro seal sets.
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post #12 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-17-2016, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I grab a set.
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post #13 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Any recommendations for a higher output alternator.? 150- 200 ampish rated.??
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post #14 of 46 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 07:26 PM
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There is a thread on here detailing 3G alternator upgrades. Several actually. Used to be a vendor that serviced the forum that had top notch stuff and sold custom harness, cables, etc to complete the job too.

He is no longer around, so you will have to source all that stuff yourself. PA (as in Performance Alternator) has the wiring kit available in harness form for a reasonable price. They also offer upgraded 3G 130 amp alts that put out a minimum of 160 amps. You would still need to upgrade your charge cables.

On your 90 (mine too) you will need to remove some material from your original bracket. Not hard to do with a $50.00 ish dollar dremel. I used the same belt.

When searching you should easily find factory supplied alternator sources, such as certain Tauras, Mustang, etc. I think any 94-95 V8 and 94 up (to an extent) V6 should work. Regardless, the correct factory replacements will be available in your favorite parts houses and possible junkyards if you prefer. There are two versions of the 3G, a 95 amp and 130 amp. Do your research and you will be fine. They are readily distinguishable by the number of cooling holes where the pulley mounts.

As stated above, if you have a roller cam you will have to have a steel cam gear for your distributor. I just swapped the gear from my donor engine (I had it rebuilt) onto a donor distributor from my wiring harness donor. The 90 will have a distributor mount TFI and the newer ones have a fenderwell mount TFI. (My truck was originally 5.0/AOD so since I was upgrading to a 351/E4OD and needed harnesses as well as engine/transmissioin.)

I am not 100% sure of the bracketry differences between the model years but I agree with the above, just use your existing brackets. If the cam is the factory truck camshaft, your computer should run the engine just fine. If it is a "performance" grind you may run into issues with the SD computer.

You should also be made aware, if not already, that the factory intake will be a big restriction especially with the better heads.

hth
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post #15 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks TS. Yeah i've read on the 3g stuff some. Was just wondering if there was a particular brand that was prefered. As far as the mount goes, i have the means to mod the bracket if thats what it takes.
The motor will have a stock cam and i may get the edelbrock truck intake later. Think im going to regear first.
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 04:11 PM
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as for the alternator, you cant go wrong with a Mechman. All the high power Stereo guys swear by them more than at them.

Heres one for my 94, but they also make the style for your 90 brackets. They arent cheap though, $350 but they are 100% american made.
E Series 240 amp T mount alternator for Ford - Mechman Alternators
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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks jowens. I'll check them out.
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 09:15 PM
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I was planning on a 3G swap on my '91 5.8 F150. So I have a new 160 amp and mega fuse block sitting on the shelf. PM if you want any details.

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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Roger that. Thanks.
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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 11:40 PM
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Look I have only been member since September. I have only read and not posted anthing. So here we go. If it's in the wrong place.im sure you will let me know.
I own a 93 XLT. 7" lift riding on 3513.5 Dick Cepeks. In the middle of changing the gears to 4:56. I only have 144000 mileage on her. But I like to be ready. Is it possible or even feasible to put something like a Saleen, or Cobra engine in it? Or.suggestions on what I should do. Want to stay with the 302 size. Coyote is what sounds good but at 10,000 to 12,000 is a little more than I'm willing to go. Lol
My buddy just finished a stroked 347 and it's a beast.
HELP
Please give me some serious ideas only please no big blocks. No Diesels

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