Trans question - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Trans question

OK fellas I'm sure this has been covered somewhere on here but dont know what the heck to search for lol.

Have a recent trans issue with my 96 F-150 4.9 (E4OD i believe). Truck only has around 60k miles on it and has always functioned very well. The other day while coming back from a short trip to the Manards down the street i popped a trans cooler line coming down my street didnt really notice anything till i parked it and saw a huge puddle under the front end blew the line completely off and puked a gallon or so. I put the line back on and put in several qts and had to move it a hundred feet or so, seemed to work ok but was still down and slipped while moving it. Got more trans fluid and and topped it off per dip stick (almost seven qts). Drove the truck home just to get it out a bit and all seemed fine going down the road and seemed to shift ok. Heres the odd part, coming up to the light off my exit as i rolled to a stop the truck stalled but it was a weird kind of stall like the trans bound up and killed the engine. Put in neutral and fired right up and off i went. It has done it several times since, felt like it bound up something in the trans and killed the engine but always starts right up. Rolling up to a light or in a drive through. Not all the time but maybe every tenth time i hit a light or stop for something. Any thoughts? Its not a violent stop more like applying a brake on the engine if i feel it chugging i can slip in in N and its fine . . . .

my girlfriend has been on me to buy a newer truck . . . . had to break it to her I'm not likely ever going to have anything newer then 1996 . . . . . .
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:40 PM
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Yo glassdave,
Can you recall the color and odor of the fluid that was still in the transmission when you got home . It should be dark reddish not brown or black. A burnt odor can sometimes indicate that there is an overheating condition (obvious, huh?��) &or clutch disc or band failure. Use a clean, lint-free rag to wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solids (specks of any kind) and for coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).

Also the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.
Is CEL ON when starting or while driving?

Same for:
Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) , it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

Have it scanned for codes for free at local parts store.


1996 F-Series 150, 250, 350 & Super Duty Owners Guide (Manual) 4165 KB

...

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 Workshop Manual (partial)
See Section 06-09A: Brake System, Anti-Lock, Rear
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
"..,The RABS II uses both the red BRAKE and yellow REAR ABS instrument panel warning lights to alert the driver to a system malfunction. Both lights must be working properly to assist in concern diagnosis. The steps listed below must be followed prior to beginning the RABS II diagnostic procedure.
The red BRAKE warning light is constantly monitored by the anti-lock electronic control module. If the red light illuminates, the anti-lock electronic control module will disable the RABS II system and turn on the yellow RABS light. For this reason, diagnosing and resolving any base brake concerns illuminating the red BRAKE warning light will, in most cases, resolve a perceived RABS II concern.
The red BRAKE warning light is used to indicate a low fluid level condition or parking brake applied condition. To check this light, insert the key in the ignition switch and turn it to the START position. The light should glow in this position. If it fails to glow, go to the Symptom Chart.
The yellow REAR ABS warning light is used to indicate a malfunction and a deactivation of the RABS II system. To check this light, first follow the procedure above for Red Brake Warning Light Self-Check, and allow the key to spring back from START position to the RUN position. The yellow REAR ABS warning light should perform a self-check by glowing for approximately two seconds and then turning off. If it turns back on and does not flash, then a system concern has been detected. Refer to On-Board Diagnostics, Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Retrieving. If it fails to glow, go to the Symptom Chart.
RABS II Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Retrieving; CAUTION: Care must be taken to connect only the black/orange stripe wire to ground. Connecting the red mating connector wire to ground will result in a blown fuse.
Verify the key is in the RUN position (engine does not need to be running). Next, locate the black RABS II diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector has two mating halves (one of which has a black/orange wire connected to it). Disconnect the two halves.
Attach one end of a jumper wire to the black with orange stripe wire side of the diagnostic connector. Momentarily ground the other end of the jumper wire by connecting it to a good chassis ground for 1-2 seconds. Grounding this wire should start the yellow REAR ABS warning light flashing. If grounding this wire does not start the yellow REAR ABS warning light flashing, go to the Symptom Chart.
The code consists of a number of short flashes and ends with a long flash. Count the short flashes and include the following long flash in the count to obtain the code number. For example, three short flashes followed by one long flash indicates diagnostic trouble Code 4. The code will continue to repeat itself until the key is turned off. It is recommended that the code be verified by reading it several times. This code will be used later for system repair instructions. It should be written down for future use. Diagnostic trouble code 16 indicates that the anti-lock electronic control module detects normal system operation.
Diagnostic Trouble Codes, Erasing
The last step of the System Pre-Check always includes clearing the Keep-Alive Memory (KAM). To do this, simply turn off the ignition while the diagnostic connector halves are separated as described in the procedures for obtaining the diagnostic trouble code above, after which the diagnostic connector should be reassembled to provide KAM power to the anti-lock electronic control module. If at this time a valid code has been obtained, go to the appropriate pinpoint test for that code..."
Post any codes found.
...

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Last edited by miesk5; 01-09-2017 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Saving space
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 03:51 PM
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Sounds like maybe the torque converter may not be unlocking when you're coming to a stop. This would feel like stopping a manual trans car without pushing the clutch in or putting it in neutral. It may be low on fluid.
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94 Bronco XLT. Beefy 351, 6" , 37's, 4.88: burnt
85 Bronco custom, 4" 37's, locked 4.56, 300 i6 4 bbl, np435/208
96 f350 XL, rclb, 351, c6, BW4407 xfer
78 f150 Ranger, 351m, t18, np205, rusty
90 f150, 95 f250, 96 f350 psd: stolen, sold, and burnt, respectively.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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miesk - trans was functioning flawlessly before i blew the line off with never any issue. Fluid was not burnt and seemed about the appropriate shade of red for a truck this age (60k miles) going to toss my scanner on in the morning and see if i get any codes. Been driving it a bit today and has not acted up much.

Big Blue thats exactly whats its like, stopping a manual trans in gear. I'm assuming convertor is staying locked

my girlfriend has been on me to buy a newer truck . . . . had to break it to her I'm not likely ever going to have anything newer then 1996 . . . . . .
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 09:24 AM
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If it is indeed an e4od, the converter locks electronically, by grounding out the circuit. However, low fluid could probably cause the aame thing, but at an inconsistent interval like you are experiencing. Unfortunately I don't know much more about them, so maybe someone who does will chime in...

94 Bronco XLT. Beefy 351, 6" , 37's, 4.88: burnt
85 Bronco custom, 4" 37's, locked 4.56, 300 i6 4 bbl, np435/208
96 f350 XL, rclb, 351, c6, BW4407 xfer
78 f150 Ranger, 351m, t18, np205, rusty
90 f150, 95 f250, 96 f350 psd: stolen, sold, and burnt, respectively.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue 94 View Post
If it is indeed an e4od, the converter locks electronically, by grounding out the circuit. However, low fluid could probably cause the same thing, but at an inconsistent interval like you are experiencing. Unfortunately I don't know much more about them, so maybe someone who does will chime in...
i puked it pretty good, somewhere in the neighborhood of six or seven qts by my guess. It seems to have just about gone away driving it last couple days as i have brought level up to spec. Hoping someone will pop in that has had a similar experience also hope i didnt hurt anything and the symptoms are just a product of the extreme low fluid level.

I think its an E4OD but thats from searching on line i wouldnt know from lookin at it . . .

my girlfriend has been on me to buy a newer truck . . . . had to break it to her I'm not likely ever going to have anything newer then 1996 . . . . . .
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:07 AM
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Is the transmission case "ribbed" with lots of little gussets on it? Does the pan say "metric"? Are there quite a few wires going to the trans? If so, id say it's an e4od. Being a 96, it could only have a couple auto transmissions: e4od, c6 (no OD, usually only on f2/350s) or I believe the 4r100. Pretty sure the aod family of transmissions were done at that point.

94 Bronco XLT. Beefy 351, 6" , 37's, 4.88: burnt
85 Bronco custom, 4" 37's, locked 4.56, 300 i6 4 bbl, np435/208
96 f350 XL, rclb, 351, c6, BW4407 xfer
78 f150 Ranger, 351m, t18, np205, rusty
90 f150, 95 f250, 96 f350 psd: stolen, sold, and burnt, respectively.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:21 AM
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Should be a e4od, the C6 was only in bigger trucks after 88 or 89 (do not remember which). The 96 Bronco should have the most updated E4OD in it, weather a 302 or 351.


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