anyone know anything about resealing windshields? - Ford Bronco Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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anyone know anything about resealing windshields?

I had a windshield installed 20 years ago and then the motor gave out, so basically this install sat in my garage for 20 years. Fast forward to yesterday. I took it around the block for a spin trying to work some bugs out then pulled in and washed it down to get all the dust off and see what the true body damage i was going to be working on. Well, the windshield seems to be leaking. I'm pretty sure to do this right i am going to have to pull the windshield, clean, surface and primer it...then seal and install again. I tried to think of a way to shortcut it, like using the 3m windshield sealer as a band-aid, but every time i try to take a shortcut it bites me in the ass. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:26 AM
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I personally wouldn't screw with it..call a glass company.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:43 AM
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I got a new windshield this year. Wanted to do it myself since I was repainting the truck anyways. Did all the research, and between proper sealant, removal tool, and new glass, I was at about $140-$160. The mobile glass guy in my area will do mine in my driveway for $160.
Easy choice to leave it to a pro.

I did remove the old glass myself so I could paint first. Huge pain, took over an hour, and even trying different tricks (piano wire "sawing", razor blade, etc.) I still cracked the goddamn glass.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:48 AM
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Have safelight do it, they have to proper tools and if you find rot under the urathane you can put a hold on the install to repair the damage. I guarantee if it's leaking its rotten.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 02:54 PM
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This is one of those things that is better to just call the man for.

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 04:14 PM
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@offroadgearhead is a fan of the 3m sealer.

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Originally Posted by offroadgearhead View Post
I have worked in the glass and body industry for 30 years. A pin hole in the seam sealer will create a huge water leak. This was a problem when a lot of these rigs were new. I fixed a lot for the local Ford dealer. 3M makes a clear seam sealer that does wonders. Just clean everything good first.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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In my experience there isn't much out there that is better to call someone else out for. I would rather try it myself than roll the dice on someone who is supposed to be an expert, but might or might not be. I know there are people that are better and people that are faster than me, but usually not both. I try not to pass up opportunities to learn new things unless it might be a safety issue or it is going to cost me more than it is worth to learn the skill.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:09 PM
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was the floor wet or did you see the water come in the windshield? I just had major issues that turned out to be rot in the cowl area under the wipers due to a clogged drain that allowed water to sit. You said it was inside for 20 years. Where exactly did you see the water coming from? I would hate for you to pull the windshield then find out that wasn't it.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
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It is a slight drip somewhere above the driver's area. No rust on the roof, nothing i can see prior to pulling the windshield. I am tempted to try and seal it without pulling, but thought it might be half-assing things.

I noticed the drip after pressure washing it. just a small drip...probably a pinhole somewhere around that area. The vehicle had the windshield installed then crapped out and sat in my garage. So any holes or gaps in the sealant were never exposed to water until a couple of days ago. I doubt i have much if any rust in the channel, but who knows until i pull it. I already have the tools for the job, but have only ever done the pulling, not the installing.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 11:58 PM
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I have to agree with the others.

If you want to try it yourself, go ahead, but I'd highly suggest calling a glass company. They'll have it out and a new one in, leak free in no time. Getting the glass out isn't too bad but getting all the crap cleaned up so you can reseal it is the major pain in the butt. Who knows what they used 20 years ago to seal it anyways.

Glass I got done in my truck was $150, they pulled it, cleaned the rust off the frame, primed it and did a little touch up paint where it rusted above the windshield- dropped new glass in, and I'm sure I wouldn't have even had the glass halfway out in that time.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:23 AM
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If you want to check and see if the w/s is whats leaking you can use an air compressor to check it. 78 -79 have a rubber gasket and 80 up are glued in. 80 - 86 were installed with butyl tape and in 87 they went to urethane to install them. If it is the later spray foaming glass cleaner around the seal and blow from inside around the seal. A pin hole will show as the foam will blow out where ever the hole is. In the glass industry Safelite is the bottom of the barrel. Most of there installers don't have much experience and if there is the slightest hint of rust surface or deep they will leave you without a w/s and tell you to get it fixed. Find an independent shop with a store front and look at there reviews. I fix a lot of other shops crappy work. And if you have any other questions let me know.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildog93 View Post
I had a windshield installed 20 years ago and then the motor gave out, so basically this install sat in my garage for 20 years. Fast forward to yesterday. I took it around the block for a spin trying to work some bugs out then pulled in and washed it down to get all the dust off and see what the true body damage i was going to be working on. Well, the windshield seems to be leaking. I'm pretty sure to do this right i am going to have to pull the windshield, clean, surface and primer it...then seal and install again. I tried to think of a way to shortcut it, like using the 3m windshield sealer as a band-aid, but every time i try to take a shortcut it bites me in the ass. Any thoughts?
Have a good local shop pull it and fix what ever is wrong then have it re installed . If it is prepped right it should last for years or until a rock finds it on the road.

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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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I guess it was a bad question to start. The question should have been...who has tackled this and what tips do you have for anyone attempting it? I don't take anything to a shop fellas. I work at a shop, i am just not a paint and body guy, or a window guy yet i suppose, but always willing to learn more. If it turns out i have rust in the channel i will fix it. If that means i have to cut and weld, that isn't a problem. I am just wondering how tough it is to stab a windshield.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devildog93 View Post
I guess it was a bad question to start. The question should have been...who has tackled this and what tips do you have for anyone attempting it? I don't take anything to a shop fellas. I work at a shop, i am just not a paint and body guy, or a window guy yet i suppose, but always willing to learn more. If it turns out i have rust in the channel i will fix it. If that means i have to cut and weld, that isn't a problem. I am just wondering how tough it is to stab a windshield.
Not that hard if you are mechanical which it sounds like you are. Any paint supply store or glass shop should have butyl tape. I use 5/16" round made by 3M. The easiest way to do it is to run the tape on the w/s first and then set it in the rig. With two people it's a piece of cake. I would then run some urethane sealant around the w/s and smooth it out creating a dam around the butyl. It will also help keep the w/s from sinking when it gets hot out.

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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 02:29 PM
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Yo devildog93,
Windshield Water Leak Sealing Tip TSB 99-2-3 for 95-96 by Ford @ http://web.archive.org/web/200501190...ocs/99-2-3.doc
This TSB left out the Bronco and prior years, but it applies
significant excerpts;
"...The customer may report a water leak from the windshield. This may be caused by a skip or a void in the production sealer somewhere around the periphery of the windshield.
ACTION:
Apply a bead of Liquid Butyl Sealer (updated see below 96 manual) under the weatherstrip around the periphery of the windshield. Refer to the appropriate Service or Workshop Manual for weatherstrip removal where necessary.
NOTE: DUE TO DIFFICULTY IN DETERMINING THE EXACT LOCATION OF A WATER LEAK, IT MAY BE IDEAL TO SEAL THE ENTIRE WINDSHIELD PERIPHERY (SIDES, TOP AND BOTTOM) TO ENSURE REPAIR OF THE LEAK.
(updated see below 96 manual) ..."
Sealer (updated see below 96 manual) or equivalent meeting Ford specification does not run, is fast drying, and remains semi-elastic. The sealer can be used for seam sealing in such areas as the floorpan, wheelhouse, dash panel, running board, door openings and drip rails. It can also be used to seal outside moulding clip holes, and for windshield and rear window installation. "

See updated material specs in;
Section 01-11: Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual (partial) @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Windshield Glass @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series

Kit E0AZ-19562-A is probably obsolete, but local body/paint supply store hves equivalent.

96 Manual is same as most earlier years especially 92-96, except for:
92 through 95 uses the Electronic Engine Control, version Four (EEC-IV, aka On Board Diagnostics (OBD-I)) engine management computer
96 uses the OBD-II (EEC-V) engine management computer;
4WABS (93-96);
RABS (87-92);
Air Bag (94-96);
3 Screw Automatic Locking Hubs (Built from May 95 through 96); Spark Plug Wire Routing & Firing Order (The firing order for 1987-1993 5.0Ls is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. The firing order for 1994- 96 5.0Ls & all 5.8Ls is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.);
R134a in 94-96;
2-piece Spindle Rolling Diaphragm Seal (RDS) used on 5/95 to 96 Broncos & F Series 1/2-ton 4WD;
Mass Air Flow in 95 5.8 California models and in all 96s, other years used Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (MAP).
96 5.8 do not have the Air Injection (AIR), Secondary Air Injection; Pump (Smog Pump), Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) & Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoids; Diverter, Check & Bypass Valves, Cross-Over Tube, etc. But 96 5.0 does have the system.
The 96, Vapor Management Valve (VMV) replaces the canister purge valve (CanP valve) used in EEC IV.
The Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) in a 93 Bronco is located on the driver side frame rail, but in 94 through 96 it is on the master cylinder.
Still researching other differences.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 05:17 PM
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Firstly, Semper Fi!


It's been a while since I've done any windshield work, and when I did I used piano wire. I've removed/replaced the gasket style and the "glue" style, and if you ask me, the glue style is tougher. Getting the old windshield out is the toughest part. Its a royal PITA unless your glue is still nice and soft, which yours probably won't be.

Depending on the gauge, the piano wire is stiff enough to be able to penetrate the glue. You can stab it from inside the cab, or from the outside, but I find that stabbing it from the inside is a little easier.

Most people secure the ends around wooden dowels of some sort, like chunks of a broom handle. Personally, I like to tie one end off to a dowel, which is connected to some stiff rope, which is then connected to something solid inside the cab (door hinge works). That way I can use both hands to pull on the wire. You don't necessarily need the rope, but if you don't have it, be prepared for the wire to cut stuff you don't want to be cut.

Now they have tools that can cut the glue with a blade from the outside. Much easier this way if you can get your hands on one.

Don't think that you can get away with leaving some of the glue un-cut. When you pry on the windshield, the part that is still glued down may decide to remain in place, and crack, which may be a PITA to clean out after the fact.

Once you get it cut, it should be relatively easy to remove. Once its removed, its a matter of cleaning things up and gluing another one it its place (or replacing the existing one if its still in good shape).

Have fun buddy. I don't envy the work you have ahead of you.
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