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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Few 4x4 questions...

Well we got hit by this Mega Blizzard in South Jersey (2 inches of mostly slush). So on my way to work this morning I used my 4x4, and experienced a few problems I'd like to resolve by summer.

1) When in 4high, driving over 25mph, the wheel jerks pretty violently left and right. It happens on flat ground and makes it pretty hard to drive. Is there a common cause for this? I've done some research but nothing is relevant to my truck or symptoms.

2) My 4x4 won't disengage, but engages fine. I have the shift on the fly with manual hubs. I recently fixed my shift motor by replacing the broken plastic bushing inside. What is the proper procedure for disengaging 4x4, maybe I'm just doing something wrong...?

3) I've recently started hearing a hum from the front end when in 4x4. Could this be a hub or bearing somewhere?

Thanks for the help guys I'm trying to get everything working by summer and I keep finding more problems hahah.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 01:35 PM
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Answer to #2 is you have to reverse for about 10ft after disengagement of the 4x4
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:21 PM
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you should NOT NEED to drive in reverse to disengage your transfer case. if you do... there's a problem.
that's throwback to much older rigs. how in the world does 2" of slush = snow blizzard?!?
you're probably hitting ice, snow and pavement (slip, spin, grab) and it's causing it to drive like crap.
shouldn't even need to use 4x on the streets in those conditions.

I'll leave the rest to smarter people than I.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:29 PM
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while you wouldn't need to drive in reverse to disengage the transfer case, it's sometimes necessary with auto hubs, but you have manuals, so something else must be going on. I'd pull hubs and see how they look inside. Something might be broken.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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The reverse thing seemed to work. And that's what the weather people were saying. Completely blew by us. And I'll have to check the hubs

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 05:39 PM
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The reverse thing seemed to work. And that's what the weather people were saying. Completely blew by us. And I'll have to check the hubs

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Please don't get your automotive advice from "the weather people".
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 06:48 PM
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you have got to have problems with the hubs, if you had to use reverse to disengage the transfer case.
unless you have a transfer case problem... which, I hope you don't.

that could also explain the issue with the way it's driving but be careful with the 4x on pavement.


I took a guy for a test drive in my '90 with an Aussie Locker in the front. we put it in 4x on the road, same conditions I described earlier and it was jerking all over the place. scared the willies out of the guy. I assume he thought it should run in 4x like his little ricer SUV.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Please don't get your automotive advice from "the weather people".
But they seemed trustworthy??

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 08:41 AM
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But they seemed trustworthy??

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As far as the issues your having:
1. Do you know if your Bronco has a limited slip or locking differential up front? The front wheels will dig at whichever side has traction, if ice and snow are on the ground it could cause that as pepe said.
2.How do you know it isn't disengaging? Have you checked the motor to be sure its actuating 4H, 4L, and the returning to 2wd?
3. Ive always noticed a little noise with my front end engaged, but if its more than an audible hum then you need to check over the driveline and the front shafts. There are alot of places that will create noise if a part fails.


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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Meteorologists are the only people that can have a dead wrong report every day and keep a job, remember that

As far as the issues your having:
1. Do you know if your Bronco has a limited slip or locking differential up front? The front wheels will dig at whichever side has traction, if ice and snow are on the ground it could cause that as pepe said.
2.How do you know it isn't disengaging? Have you checked the motor to be sure its actuating 4H, 4L, and the returning to 2wd?
3. Ive always noticed a little noise with my front end engaged, but if its more than an audible hum then you need to check over the driveline and the front shafts. There are alot of places that will create noise if a part fails.
1) As far as I know, everything is stock. It would make sense if it was doing the slip spin grab thing because some parts of the road were dryer than others. I only used 4x4 because my tires suck in the snow and I just spin out.

2) Well, I don't know 100% if it is. It engages into 4hi fine, but when I press the button it takes a bunch of driving back and forth to disengage. The light also goes off on the dash.

3) I'll have to check for problems. Is there a way to check for worn joints in the front?

Thanks for bearing with me guys



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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:04 AM
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1) As far as I know, everything is stock. It would make sense if it was doing the slip spin grab thing because some parts of the road were dryer than others. I only used 4x4 because my tires suck in the snow and I just spin out.

2) Well, I don't know 100% if it is. It engages into 4hi fine, but when I press the button it takes a bunch of driving back and forth to disengage. The light also goes off on the dash.

3) I'll have to check for problems. Is there a way to check for worn joints in the front?

Thanks for bearing with me guys



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I think what he's asking is how do you know if the 4wd is acutally not engaged?? Are you waiting for a noise from the transfercase? Are you referring to a difference in traction? Are you just going by the light on the dash?

Depending on the mileage of your truck I would tear down the hubs till you're able to pull the axles, replace the ujoints in them, and then rebuild all the way out to the locking hubs with all new components.
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I think what he's asking is how do you know if the 4wd is acutally not engaged?? Are you waiting for a noise from the transfercase? Are you referring to a difference in traction? Are you just going by the light on the dash?

Depending on the mileage of your truck I would tear down the hubs till you're able to pull the axles, replace the ujoints in them, and then rebuild all the way out to the locking hubs with all new components.
There is a significant difference in the way the truck drives. You can immediately feel the 4x4 once you hit about 15mph

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 05:37 PM
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#1: What size tires are you running front vs back? Are the front ones worn more than the rear? Are the rear worn down more than the front? That would be my first suspect.

I live in CO between CO Springs and Denver. We get real snow, so I use 4X4 a lot in the winter time. Normally I don't notice that its engaged unless I make a tight turn, or start calculating my gas mileage.

If treadwear and size is the same on all 4 tires, I'd check to make sure that some PO didn't change the ratio in the diff in the rear, and not the front (not likely, though). You can do this by spinning the wheel and counting the turns of the driveshaft. Remember to engage the hubs up front or the front driveshaft won't turn. For example, 1 full rotation of the wheel should equate to 3.55 rotations of the driveshaft for a 3:55 differential (rear--3.54 front). If your rear DS turns 3 and a half times, but your front DS turns just a tad over 3 times you may have a 3.08 diff in the front and a 3.55 in the rear.

I bet its just tires.
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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 12:20 AM Thread Starter
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#1: What size tires are you running front vs back? Are the front ones worn more than the rear? Are the rear worn down more than the front? That would be my first suspect.

I live in CO between CO Springs and Denver. We get real snow, so I use 4X4 a lot in the winter time. Normally I don't notice that its engaged unless I make a tight turn, or start calculating my gas mileage.

If treadwear and size is the same on all 4 tires, I'd check to make sure that some PO didn't change the ratio in the diff in the rear, and not the front (not likely, though). You can do this by spinning the wheel and counting the turns of the driveshaft. Remember to engage the hubs up front or the front driveshaft won't turn. For example, 1 full rotation of the wheel should equate to 3.55 rotations of the driveshaft for a 3:55 differential (rear--3.54 front). If your rear DS turns 3 and a half times, but your front DS turns just a tad over 3 times you may have a 3.08 diff in the front and a 3.55 in the rear.

I bet its just tires.
Same size, BUT different brands. I actually have new 33inch MT Deegan 38 tires coming soon. I blew a tire on the way home from a trail 2 nights ago. Once I get these mounted, I will try driving in 4x4 again. I'll have to find a dirt road that I can test them on. Or maybe it'll snow again soon haha.

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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 59Ford View Post
Well we got hit by this Mega Blizzard in South Jersey (2 inches of mostly slush). So on my way to work this morning I used my 4x4, and experienced a few problems I'd like to resolve by summer.

1) When in 4high, driving over 25mph, the wheel jerks pretty violently left and right. It happens on flat ground and makes it pretty hard to drive. Is there a common cause for this? I've done some research but nothing is relevant to my truck or symptoms.

You might want to research "death wobble". Does your truck have a steering stabilizer?

2) My 4x4 won't disengage, but engages fine. I have the shift on the fly with manual hubs. I recently fixed my shift motor by replacing the broken plastic bushing inside. What is the proper procedure for disengaging 4x4, maybe I'm just doing something wrong...?

If you drive on dry pavement, the driveline can get "wound up". The backing up trick often works.

3) I've recently started hearing a hum from the front end when in 4x4. Could this be a hub or bearing somewhere?

I would say u-joints is most common. But occasionally you have people that never lock the hubs or shift the T-case. Then the top half of the gears/bearings can get rusty. (Not in oil) If that's the case, and it's not to bad, you drive it till its hot and change the oil. Some good synthetic could delay a rebuild a long time if you don't use 4x4 much. BTW, shift it in 4x4 every couple months. (Even if only a mile)

Thanks for the help guys I'm trying to get everything working by summer and I keep finding more problems hahah.

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?

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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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?
1) I don't have a stabilizer, but in 2wd I dont get this problem. I have the normal slop in the steering box but I can hold a straight line fine.

2)I'll have to try disengaging on a dirt road once she's up and running.

3) I'll have to check the u joints because I sometimes get a clunk when taking my foot of the gas and re-applying.

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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 10:55 AM
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Sometimes differnt things set off the wobble. It doesn't do it all the time. The steering stabilizer does not solve the underlining problem, but it can help. It is also good for reducing further ware. You should run one regardless of your issue.

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Sometimes differnt things set off the wobble. It doesn't do it all the time. The steering stabilizer does not solve the underlining problem, but it can help. It is also good for reducing further ware. You should run one regardless of your issue.
I'll check them out.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:17 AM
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With respect to the front end wobble, I suggest you take a good look at (1) axle pivot bushings, (2) radius arm bushings and (3) ball joints. Any slop in any of these can cause a wobble. Slop in all three make it worse. Running in 4x4 magnifies the effect by about 100 times. Maybe I missed it, what kind of diff do you have up front? A locker will make things even worse.

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 59Ford View Post
2) My 4x4 won't disengage, but engages fine. I have the shift on the fly with manual hubs. I recently fixed my shift motor by replacing the broken plastic bushing inside. What is the proper procedure for disengaging 4x4, maybe I'm just doing something wrong...?
Do you know how your truck was converted to manual hubs? I seem to recall the SOF trucks only coming with auto hubs - it is possible to improperly install manual hubs with the remains of the auto hardware so they do weird things.
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