Iv'e got my mind set on getting the camburg front end lift, the 2,000 dallar one. My question is will there be anything extra I need to do on top of it? Do I need to have my front beams cut and turned on my own or do they come with it already?

Go back to there page and read it again. It comes with the beams already turned. You will still need to lift the rear somehow. Also need to concider getting extended radius arms. Looks like you might need to do a little more research before you jump. I would love to install one of those kits!!! Good luck with your build.

They cut and turn your beams, the front will be good to go. The radius arms are part of there performance package. For the money it is a great setup, I owuld recomend though save the money so you can do the rear springs at the same time. I would also suggest calling them and talk with jerry. When I had them do mine they made some changes on what they offered for their packages. If you are just looking for lift though and not looking to gain travel in the suspension save your money and go with a lift kit. The suspension they offer is to gain the wheel travel for playing a bit harder not to gain the height. I am very happy I chose them and if you are looking to do it yourself give autofab a call as well. They are priced about the same for a middle of the road setup. Good luck and let us know how it all works out.

It's going to be a little bit before I can do it, I'm looking for more travel then lift. I'm going to get it done while I'm here in asscrackistan. Just the reselution set up on these computers are so out of wack I can hardly read the print.

No worries man, I spent last year in Iraq so I understand. The camburg stuff is good and it was well worth the money IMO. The basics are this:



Performance Off-Road System

5" Lift

12" Travel
$2080.00 Parts
$3000.00 Installed

This system will clear 33" tires with stock fenders and 35" tires with fiberglass fenders.
Cut and Turned Beams
Custom HEIM Radius Arms
Coil-Springs
Bilstein Shocks pr.
Cam Kits
Brake lines


You will have everything you need for upfront and a good shop in your area will be able to install it if you need them too. THe only PIA is drilling out rivets and drilling new holes in the frame. If you can afford it get the deaver springs for the rear just dont ditch the factory wedge you will need it. With 35s I have soem rubbing issues nothing horrible but with 33s you will be golden. Let me know if I can help you out with any more info, I will be heading out to meet my ship so very soon I will not be on here much for a couple a months again.

Thanks for the info, I just wasn't sure if it came with beams already or if I needed to have the ones I have already turned. I don't think there is a shop that can do that if nessesary where I have my bronco parked.
I am also getting the Deaver rear springs...I'm mostly going to play around Florence, and I figured this set up would help me out a lot.

No worries, email camburg and ask them if they will sell you a set of beams without a core, if not they will want your beams shipped to them and then they will ship them back after they cut and turn them. The problem with that is the cost of shipping, another option is look around on fsb for the guys doing an sas usually they will junk their ttb cheap so you may be able to work something with someone local to drop them off at camburg for cutting and turning saving some precious dollars on shipping costs. As far as the suspension goes it is great, I do a mix of playing but lately it has been alot of high speed desert running and the suspension works flawlessly. I have the tires off the ground quite a bit usually unintentionally and it soaks it up every time. If you get the chance though contact autofab as well they may be easier to work with on the shipping not sure though. Good luck and let us know if you need anything.

they'll sell them with out the core, but they jack up the price on the beams something aweful. im trying to figure out how i can send mine from nj to them and get it back. theres a good chance of a summer road trip next year

Like I suggested to rcracerx look for a set someone is ditching out here in socal that you could sweettalk into dropping by camburg for you and have those done up, then your shipping costs would drop dramatically. The road trip would be fun but I am guessing you would end up spending more than the shipping in gas.

We have quite a few different options so calling us at the shop is your best bet and we can go over everything. Our most common front system is modified beams, 4" coil springs, heim radius arms with bilstein 5100 shocks. You'd be surprised how well that rides and works. Their are a ton of options though.

In regards to modifying your beams ... I recommend for most people to get a set from someone on here, your local truck salvage yard, etc and then ship those into us. It really isnt all that expensive to ship them. That way your truck isnt taken apart during the entire process and once you get them back now you have an extra set. Turnaround on modifying them is 1-2 days.

I wish we had beams ready to go and could charge a minimal core charge but the problem is that with these trucks getting older and older, good cores are getting harder and harder to track down in southern ca. It took me weeks to get the set I'm modifying for my own project.

- Scott @ Camburg

Okay, someone humor me, how do these beams get shipped?

UPS says they are too big... b/s, but okay....

And Scott, I have no issues with paying for the beams, I really dont...

I have seen some outstanding work come out of west coast fab shops....

BUT...

Its really gonna be more prudent for me to figure out how far to move the ball joint, and do it myself, or have it done locally....

I would rather have the product that I KNOW is correct, but, that just aint happening right now.....

Chase

Okay, someone humor me, how do these beams get shipped?

UPS says they are too big... b/s, but okay....

And Scott, I have no issues with paying for the beams, I really dont...

I have seen some outstanding work come out of west coast fab shops....

BUT...

Its really gonna be more prudent for me to figure out how far to move the ball joint, and do it myself, or have it done locally....

I would rather have the product that I KNOW is correct, but, that just aint happening right now.....

Chase

I just shipped a bumper to FL from CA for $50 via DHL, so I would have a hard time believing the cost of shipping the beams is too high to justify it. The beams are not too big for UPS. They're quite small and less than 70lbs. together. Shipping should be in the $35 range, if packaged as below.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/506825/fullsize/ttb-bundle.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/506826/fullsize/ttb-bundle2.jpg

They're quite small and less than 70lbs. together.



Well, the 600 I could justify....no problem...well, not right now, but, I can justify that...

Okay, for the guys at Camburg....

Okay, CURRENT driving/playing environment is, highway, beach(like to play on the beach, but, the dunes....uh, big fine/jail time), so, RIGHT NOW, and near future, jumping isnt a concern...


IF, I were to send off for beams....

Would...

A, my stock coil buckets be okay?

B, I have a 4 inch lift sitting in my garage, BUT, not really wanting to use drop down brackets, would the extened arms be okay..FOR NOW, again, not really seeing anything wild just yet... and, would the 4 inch springs work for now as well?

C, Shocks... HA, well, I guess I would order some Bilsteins, and eventually, the rad arms....

BUT, is this feasible for semi long term project?

I know I am "nuking" this at this point, but....

I would rather use the right stuff... BUT, it will take a long while to get enough green saved to do that, so, I can piece it... besides, I will need rear spring packs as well...

Chase

EDIT
We have quite a few different options so calling us at the shop is your best bet and we can go over everything. Our most common front system is modified beams, 4" coil springs, heim radius arms with bilstein 5100 shocks. You'd be surprised how well that rides and works. Their are a ton of options though.


I think I will do just that....

Chase

Right now all I have is the basic package and it is a great setup, for what you describe as your use it would be a great setup. FWIW my current debate is really do I need anymore suspension. I can run 50-60mph through all but the worst whoops and I have had the tires off the ground more than I care to mention and the suspension soaks it all up fine, I am not slamming into the bumpstops either.
What I am thinking of doing for my needs is look into a custom coil buckets and shock hoops so I can run some different shocks and adding hydraulic bumpstops. In the rear adding some trailing arms to prevent axle wrap and maybe some different shackles.
I guess why I am saying this is to drive scotts point home that the basic setup is better than most give it credit for. No it doesnt look all bling bling or high tech but it works very well. I have concerns over converting to coilovers and I dont like the price tag, I do not really want to widen the front either and the cost of custom axles pushes me away as well. I would like to have my beams boxed though and figure out a way to get another inch or two using stock length beams.

If you are trying to piece it together yourself your stock buckets are fine as that is what is used in the basic setup, you will need new shocks and if you dont do the radius arms then the beams wont gain you much. Along with that you will need new brake lines. Hope this helps and I can tell you it is worth the money spent. The suspension has exceeded my expectations fordesert running and trail use.

If you are trying to piece it together yourself your stock buckets are fine as that is what is used in the basic setup, you will need new shocks and if you dont do the radius arms then the beams wont gain you much. Along with that you will need new brake lines.

That is more or less what I was looking to hear...

Though, i should clarify, I have extended arms.... these things are HUGE..

And the Brake lines are what I was having a brain fart over...

And as far as Bling?????

HA, its a 85 bronco.... no rust, but, faded, dull sahara tan paint, etc....

I just wanna be able to haul ass down the beach, and the highway, run some moderate trails, camp, etc...

BUT, I need to call anyway...

BTW, what are you running for shocks???

Are the Bilsteins working out for ya?


Chase

Currently I am running the bilsteins all the way around, Overall they are a great setup, I am looking to move to a reservoir shock especially in the rear though. Not so much because of the valving but because I have had the rear fade on me a couple of times, so I am looking to have some more fluid to create more cooling. The ride on the street is firm, in the rough it tends to be a little stiff at low speed but at higher speeds sems to be about perfect. So the short answer is yes they work well and I would recomend them for what you are describing you like to do.
Glad you have been able to get some info through this thread, I know when I was making my decision it was tough to find any firsthand info on the camburg stuff, not because a lack of it but because of the sites I frequented etc.

Yeah, my hope is to have a car or truck ready to run next year....

Most likely will end up doing a Baja Bug....

Thanks for the help, now, I dont have to bother the guys with stupid questions...

I wish I knew about all this in the 90s when I built my F-150....

Chase

As much as I love bajas I love having my a/c. Too bad my gas mileage was not as good though.....

I have the same setup as Polar Cub. I took the Baja 1000 course all the way to Cabo San Lucas without any problems (except for alot of flat tires) I'm happy the way the front works. My 96 only had single shock coil buckets so I bought new OEM double shock buckets per Jerry's recommendation. The guys at Camburg were all really helpful and I'm very happy....I think the rear needs some improvements beyond just going with Deaver springs and Bilstein shocks, If I have any complaints it's how the rear will jump and slide to one side when hitting even the small speedbump sized bumps.

Also I put my swaybar back on after the Baja trip to see if the Bronco would handle better on the highway and it does handle a little better. It depends on how the road is grooved, I'm sure the cars behind me think I 'm drunk alot of the time but it is almost impossible to keep straight on some paved roads.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/530099/fullsize/mexcabo-049.jpg

If I have any complaints it's how the rear will jump and slide to one side when hitting even the small speedbump sized bumps.... it is almost impossible to keep straight on some paved roads.

Don, Neither of those issues are normal (in my experience). Do you know what your alignment specs are? Does the rear of the truck sit lower than the front?

Don, Neither of those issues are normal (in my experience). Do you know what your alignment specs are? Does the rear of the truck sit lower than the front?

Steve, the truck appears to sit pretty level, however, I've never checked to be sure. As for the alignment specs I have no idea....I had some major vibrating issues that were "mostly" corrected by balancing the tires, it's still not as smooth as stock but much better than before balancing the tires.

Bronco Don I dont have my sway bars in and I do not get that from the rear end at all, you may want to check your body bushings as well. Something is not right if the rear end is jumping around like that on you especially on the road. Keep us updated

i dont have any of these issue. my truck drives smooth. better then when it was stock. even after the frame was tweeked (another story)

I'm going to get it done while I'm here in asscrackistan.

Name change noted on the map.:histerica

Bronco Don I dont have my sway bars in and I do not get that from the rear end at all, you may want to check your body bushings as well. Something is not right if the rear end is jumping around like that on you especially on the road. Keep us updated

i dont have any of these issue. my truck drives smooth. better then when it was stock. even after the frame was tweeked (another story)

Just to clear the mud...putting the swaybar back on was to hopefully stop the front end from wandering on the highway at speed. I had my tires balanced and rotated but when I get on a freeway that is grooved I am really sawing the wheel to keep it straight. Is this possibly an alignment issue??

The seperate issue with the rear end I think could be resolved with different shocks

Broncodon, The front end issue could be an alignment issue, but I dont know what tires you are running and if they are very aggresive they tend to find grooves very easily and will cause you to have to steer the truck much more. With my creepy crawlers I get some of this not real bad but some. Maybe steveg will chime in on this he seems to be more knowledgable on the specifics on alignments.
As far as the rear goes, you are running the bilsteins right? The first two trips out I was thinking that the bilsteins were too stiff, everything seemed to soften up a bit after a few trips on them. Also I ride much better at speed than slow trail stuff. You can try loading down the cargo area with a couple bags of cement to see if the problem gets better. The only reason I am suggesting that is so you dont end up spending money you dont need to. One last thought I just had I noticed you are running the auburn ECTED? Could there be some adjusting in that? It may be reacting to the bumps causing it to slip or lockup unexpectedly which would cause some weird handling in the rear...just a thought. I know when I locked my rear with a detroit it took some getting used to especially on the freeway. Anyways back to the front I dont think that getting the alignment checked is a bad idea and I would check your tie rod ends and balljoints as well. Good luck.

Broncodon, The front end issue could be an alignment issue, but I dont know what tires you are running and if they are very aggresive they tend to find grooves very easily and will cause you to have to steer the truck much more. With my creepy crawlers I get some of this not real bad but some. Maybe steveg will chime in on this he seems to be more knowledgable on the specifics on alignments.
As far as the rear goes, you are running the bilsteins right? The first two trips out I was thinking that the bilsteins were too stiff, everything seemed to soften up a bit after a few trips on them. Also I ride much better at speed than slow trail stuff. You can try loading down the cargo area with a couple bags of cement to see if the problem gets better. The only reason I am suggesting that is so you dont end up spending money you dont need to. One last thought I just had I noticed you are running the auburn ECTED? Could there be some adjusting in that? It may be reacting to the bumps causing it to slip or lockup unexpectedly which would cause some weird handling in the rear...just a thought. I know when I locked my rear with a detroit it took some getting used to especially on the freeway. Anyways back to the front I dont think that getting the alignment checked is a bad idea and I would check your tie rod ends and balljoints as well. Good luck.

I'm still running my 32" BFG AT's for the time being, 2 are new and 2 are 80%. When Camburg did the work they return it aligned, maybe it's out of alignment ??

Good point about weight on the rearend, when I was loaded down on my Baja trip I don't remember the rear end giving me any problems, it seemed to work fine...Thanks

Well if your running the bfgs then I would say it is not the tires unless they are very worn ? Have you tried rotating them? If that doesnt do it I would go back for an alignment, it is very likely after your trip to baja it is due for one. When you go for the alignment it will be worth the extra for the lifetime deal. I need to do that with my bronco but have not gotten around to it yet.
on a side not e ar eyou going to try and make the poker run at the end of Oct?

If you do have the alignment checked, make sure you get a copy of the specs & let us know what they are.

BTW: I'm assuming the truck was checked for worn parts when the new suspension components were installed and when it was aligned.

BTW: I'm assuming the truck was checked for worn parts when the new suspension components were installed and when it was aligned.

I assume so, however I noticed that one of the balljoint boots was torn when I got it back so I can't be sure. Shouldn't that have been replaced if they saw the tear ? or any worn parts for that matter ?

Shouldn't that have been replaced if they saw the tear ? or any worn parts for that matter ?

At minimum, if the joint was still good, the boot should have been replaced. Some OE style boots are hard to get, but universals are better than torn OE boots.

I can't tell you how many lift kits and wheel travel kits I've seen installed with worn parts. It's a real bummer when someone brings a truck in for an alignment after spending several thousand on suspension, several hundred on an install only to find out the truck can't be aligned because of worn parts... that were off (or close to it) during the install!

Too often, the people installing a kit don't know what to look for or how to test for worn steering/suspension parts, so it gets overlooked.

Any decent alignment shop would check for worn parts before even connecting their equipment. BUT, don't take this for granted.