What have people been doing to increase the working angle of the center u joint on the TTB. This is the one near the diff.

I have been cycling the front and the limiting factor at this point is the u joint itself at full droop. I have spoken to a few guys with long travel TTb's and have been told to just grind the yoke for clearance.

I am just asking if anyone knows of a better solution. Has anyone used a CV or another type of joint in this location?

Thanks

[QUOTE=gunit;1358797 I have been cycling the front and the limiting factor at this point is the u joint itself at full droop. I have spoken to a few guys with long travel TTb's and have been told to just grind the yoke for clearance.

[/QUOTE]

Ive heard the same thing but havent got to this point yet. What wheel travel numbers are you trying to achieve?

I've have had a few TTB equipped trucks (stock width) with about 16" of wheel travel and have yet to require and modification or any reason to even look at the center joint. And yes, I have driven them hard, aired them out and use full travel and articulation in 4wd, with no u-joint issues. I should also not that I have never needed to modify the opening in the passenger beam that the axle-shaft goes through.

That said, I hear a lot of people talk about grinding the yokes and enlarging the opening in the passenger axle-housing.

How much travel are you after? The trucks I've seen with axle-joint issues have had either too much lift or too much travel for the set up.

My front end is stock width and at 16" of travel the u joint binds against the un-modified yoke, to be sure of not damaging the u joint I would have to strap it at around 15" static no load. I built the front end copying a friends LeDuc built Bronco Prerunner, they have enlarged the axle slots as I have done, they ground the yokes to achieve max angles and that Bronco is also stock width and they run it strapped at 16". The beams without the u joint in place are capable of as much as 18". I am not really trying to do that, but I am curious while I am at this point If people were doing anything new and better. For a lot of reasons I will keep the travel to about 16" but it would be nice for that not to be the limits of the mechanical ability.


My friend has cautioned me several times that in his fairly extensive Baja prerunning experience, he recommends not to run the truck at race speeds in 4x4. The problem is when you are running in the whoops and you achieve full droop under power and come back in contact with the ground, it can break. They have had this happen a few times and now only use 4x4 to get unstuck.

My friend has cautioned me several times that in his fairly extensive Baja prerunning experience, he recommends not to run the truck at race speeds in 4x4.

I think that's a given, but worth stating. I only posted that I've driven it that hard in case someone questioned how the vehicles were being used. Limiting to 16" of travel is a good idea. Like you said, for a lot of reasons. I too strap my front end before it reaches 16". Long before axle-joints and the steering joints bind.

Yes, it can bind with enough droop, which then can cause the joint failure.

What I would do:

Use the 'ol tried and true D50 slip joint swap. Here is a pic of just how much bigger it is:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/76137/fullsize/p1010179.jpg

more pics here:
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/628/13090

I don't recall for sure, but this joint may give slightly less movement due to it's greater size. However, it's only a few degrees if it is, and the point here is if you are going to grind the yoke for more travel, due it on this beefier unit. You also get the external Ujoint retention (as opposed to stock crappy C clips) and the joint is a nice big 799x.

Use the 'ol tried and true D50 slip joint swap


Where did you source those parts? How much clearancing was required to use them?

Use the 'ol tried and true D50 slip joint swap


Where did you source those parts? How much clearancing was required to use them?

I sourced mine through Shadowfax;)

Same year 4wd F250's have them. Through '97 I believe. My question is, will it work in a long travel application since it relies on a very short compression spring to keep the spline in the center section?

It looks like you can still use the OE C-clip. Is that right?


I've never had or felt the need to eliminate the C-clip on my TTB front ends. I always thought it was kind of sketchy....

It looks like you can still use the OE C-clip. Is that right?


I've never had or felt the need to eliminate the C-clip on my TTB front ends. I always thought it was kind of sketchy....

yes. It's not skecty at all. It's a must with a locker up front, most will not accomodate the clip. But with a long travel TTB front I can see the possible need.

The D50 slipshaft can be sourced from any F250/350 up through 1985.5 (this is when the 1 ton went back to a solid D60 up front). This one (that yikes now has) was from an '85 1 ton. He can attest to how much bigger the yoke and Ujoint are.

tom woods makes a "superflex" joint they say add 10 degrees of flexbility. that might work.

Relieve the yoke and get more travel. At least an inch. No failures on several done that way. New rule Never get air while in 4wd. The shock load when you hit the dirt wil destroy the 1320 joint. We tried a bigger joint and gave up due to to much work. I only use 4wd for slow going, but keep the hubs locked. 96 BB
PW

Relieve the yoke and get more travel. At least an inch. No failures on several done that way. New rule Never get air while in 4wd. The shock load when you hit the dirt wil destroy the 1320 joint. We tried a bigger joint and gave up due to to much work. I only use 4wd for slow going, but keep the hubs locked. 96 BB
PW

what's a 1320 joint? You mean the stock 1/2T stuff? Make sure you're using spicer 760's they are probably the best stock joint out there, but again if you upgrade to the bigger D50 slip, you can move up to the equivalent of 1350 stuff with a spicer 799X:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/76136/fullsize/p1010173.jpg

what's a 1320 joint? You mean the stock 1/2T stuff? Make sure you're using spicer 760's they are probably the best stock joint out there, but again if you upgrade to the bigger D50 slip, you can move up to the equivalent of 1350 stuff with a spicer 799X:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/76136/fullsize/p1010173.jpg
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Sorry, we are using the stock BB/150 joint. I forget the number. The bigger joint is just to much trouble to bubble the arm, etc. Now that the yokes do not hit we are happy. Please note that these desert BBs we have, do not use a lift kit. We just have tall springs and have the lower ball joint moved outward to get the settings correct. Guys that use lift kits to clear the bigger tires get a more travel. The 33s work without the heater mod like the 35s require since our body is lower than the lift kit BBs.
PW

I found a D50 slip axle and purchased it today. I have not have a chance to look at it relative to the Beam yet but it sure looks a lot bigger. How much clearancing is required to use it? Is there anything else I should know before diving in?

yes. It's not skecty at all. It's a must with a locker up front, most will not accomodate the clip. But with a long travel TTB front I can see the possible need.

The D50 slipshaft can be sourced from any F250/350 up through 1985.5 (this is when the 1 ton went back to a solid D60 up front). This one (that yikes now has) was from an '85 1 ton. He can attest to how much bigger the yoke and Ujoint are.

IMO: I don't want to break the center link or U when I'm down in Baja or 100 miles away from everything. The extra strength and peace of mind make it worth the swap. The pictures show the differences well. I'll take some pictures this weekend of the mods if I get a chance.......gonna be under there anyway.

I found a D50 slip axle and purchased it today. I have not have a chance to look at it relative to the Beam yet but it sure looks a lot bigger. How much clearancing is required to use it? Is there anything else I should know before diving in?

Well, that's a pic of the Ujoint you need above (799x) and as I recall it comes with new external clips.

Clearancing I had taken off about a 1/4" on the arm along a 3" section, right where the yoke will be rotating. Mine did not touch, but it just was a little too close for my liking.

Have you had your passenger axleshafts apart before? you understand there is a c clip holding the passenger inner shaft into the diff? And if you don't use the C clip you'll have to come up with a spring? Other than that there really is nothing more to it, aside from the original thread where you can take a dremel or something and take some material from around the yoke so that it gives more travel. And maybe you can be the one to confirm what I mentioned above....does the D50 yoke provide a little LESS travel as it sits due to the yoke being quite a bit bigger?