Finally: 85 Bronco (Pics) Tons of Questions and Help Needed!! [Archive] - Page 2 - FSB Forums

: Finally: 85 Bronco (Pics) Tons of Questions and Help Needed!!


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spikedzombies
01-03-2008, 06:46 PM
im really starting to get pissed off at edelbrock. I called their tech line and waited for 2 hours and nothing, I also shot off 2 emails 3 days ago and nothing.. anyone wanna help me out here? LOL

Sixlitre
01-03-2008, 06:50 PM
im really starting to get pissed off at edelbrock. I called their tech line and waited for 2 hours and nothing, I also shot off 2 emails 3 days ago and nothing.. anyone wanna help me out here? LOL

You gotta remember they work for Vic Junior

and he probably gave them all the whole week off. I felt just as frustrated calling around, looking for soffit "F" channel today until I realized everyone is still off for the holidays.

Door you have power locks, like Steve is eluding to ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-03-2008, 07:15 PM
nope my door locks are all manual.

Steve83
01-03-2008, 10:29 PM
...power locks, like Steve is eluding to ?...fix the rusty ... latch that's binding...;)




BTW
"elude" = escape from, lose/throw off (as in a hunt), give the slip
The word you want is "allude". :thumbup

Sixlitre
01-04-2008, 12:03 AM
;)




BTW
"elude" = escape from, lose/throw off (as in a hunt), give the slip
The word you want is "allude". :thumbup

Thanks Steve

That's not a word I use very often, much obliged

Sixlitre

seawalkersee
01-04-2008, 12:37 AM
As long as you are getting the 1406, you should NOT need an adapter plate. They are all designed as replacements for the square bore. You are supposed to only need an adapter if you had a spread bore plate like a Q-jet.

Chris

spikedzombies
01-04-2008, 02:10 AM
As long as you are getting the 1406, you should NOT need an adapter plate. They are all designed as replacements for the square bore. You are supposed to only need an adapter if you had a spread bore plate like a Q-jet.

Chris

ok does the new carb also come with the gaskets and such or do I need a different one?

EDIT***

Also, a local is selling a sealed Rancho RS6570 lift kit for about $500 as shown here http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/itemproduct_10001_12051_278980_-1_753552_11265 but before I start trying to talk him down is that a decent kit for my bko?

Sixlitre
01-04-2008, 01:45 PM
Found a Haynes manual yet Spiked ?

Sixlitre

p.s./
You being a newb to these trucks, might enjoy this;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/161378/fullsize/img_0184.jpg

I found it pretty interesting and informative.

g2zephyr
01-04-2008, 03:42 PM
If i were you I would wait for a nice 6'' kit w/ extended rad arms and new leafs or add-a-leafs instead of blocks to come up on ebay, craigslist, or here. i found a pro comp 6'' kit for less than that 4'' kit you are looking at. just my 2 cents

spikedzombies
01-04-2008, 04:21 PM
Six, yeah ive found the manuals I need but payday and work start on the bko is still about a week away :cry

g2z, well I really dont need a 6" lift... i dont plan on anything larger than 33's :thumbup

spikedzombies
01-05-2008, 08:49 PM
OK, 3 days till payday finally.. Picked up some fine grit sand paper, some black spray paint and started some minor stuff including refinishing the ballhitch and ball since it was a rusty PoS.

Pics up later of the refinished ball hitch.. BTW used some http://www2.krylon.com/main/product_template.cfm?levelid=5&sub_levelid=13&productid=1788&content=product_details

works awesome.. Will probably use the the same stuff for interior work.

Could I also use this for the door panels and such? I love the color it comes out as, kinda glossy but not too glossy..

also what can I use as kind of a scratch resistant clear coating or something?

Sixlitre
01-11-2008, 12:04 AM
What news Spiked ?:popc1:

Sixlitre

A1Fiddler
01-11-2008, 01:40 AM
Dude I almost bought that truck! It was on Craigslist for $850 in Puyallup. I called the guy and he didn't answer, so I ended up checking one out in Everett, and bought that one (in my sig) for $700.

spikedzombies
01-12-2008, 02:41 AM
Payday has come and gone, taxes were done on wed and tax returns come saturday night sunday morning so work will start either sunday or monday.

A1Fiddler, yeah I wasnt actually the first to look at it. I was actually maybe the 6th or 8th person and made the decision on the spot after taking it for a small test drive and a walkthrough to buy it. Not one of the best decisions in my life but one im proud of LOL

EDIT***

Just picked up 2 haynes manuals on ebay for $25 both the Pink cover and the Blue covered ones for bko's :D

and I think im gonna grab some of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85-86-87-FORD-BRONCO-2-RANGER-WTACH-WHITE-GAUGES-R_W0QQitemZ150203705358QQihZ005QQcategoryZ43952QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

as im sure they will be better than the stock wont they?

Also, how much weight can nerf bars hold? if they are properly installed that is.. i was thinking http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-96-FORD-F150-F250-F350-BRONCO-STEP-NERF-BARS-BK_W0QQitemZ270202743096QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33650QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ill probably pick up a set of these also http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-86-Ford-Bronco-Diamond-Cut-Headlights-85-84-83-82-84_W0QQitemZ180205802957QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33710QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and I was also thinking my friend got his 86 bronco into a 2" lift and fits 33" tires easily.. would it be cheaper to do this or just spend the extra $200 on a 4" lift?

Redwagon
01-12-2008, 01:46 PM
the nerfs wont hold more the a few hundred pounds...good if you are looking for a step to get in to your bronco...but dont try to lift your bronco off of them and dont look to them for any strengh.

spikedzombies
01-12-2008, 02:15 PM
well the reason I ask is because im a very big person, and was wondering if they would hold me as a step if i lift my bronco... im about 450lbs lol... but im also 6'5... so im trying to find something strong enough that I will be able to step on..

Sixlitre
01-12-2008, 03:54 PM
Payday has come and gone, taxes were done on wed and tax returns come saturday night sunday morning so work will start either sunday or monday.

A1Fiddler, yeah I wasnt actually the first to look at it. I was actually maybe the 6th or 8th person and made the decision on the spot after taking it for a small test drive and a walkthrough to buy it. Not one of the best decisions in my life but one im proud of LOL

EDIT***

Just picked up 2 haynes manuals on ebay for $25 both the Pink cover and the Blue covered ones for bko's :D

and I think im gonna grab some of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/84-85-86-87-FORD-BRONCO-2-RANGER-WTACH-WHITE-GAUGES-R_W0QQitemZ150203705358QQihZ005QQcategoryZ43952QQs sPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

as im sure they will be better than the stock wont they?

Also, how much weight can nerf bars hold? if they are properly installed that is.. i was thinking http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-96-FORD-F150-F250-F350-BRONCO-STEP-NERF-BARS-BK_W0QQitemZ270202743096QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33650QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ill probably pick up a set of these also http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/78-86-Ford-Bronco-Diamond-Cut-Headlights-85-84-83-82-84_W0QQitemZ180205802957QQihZ008QQcategoryZ33710QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and I was also thinking my friend got his 86 bronco into a 2" lift and fits 33" tires easily.. would it be cheaper to do this or just spend the extra $200 on a 4" lift?

Great score on the Haynes Spiked

and getting the red ones a real coup for an 80-86er :thumbup

Your first link is NFG for your year, they won't fit. Nerfs are as good as what they're bolted to. If you use small square plates of steel, like you would washers, to spread the load it will help.

The headlights are a great idea. They'd allow you to upgrade to the more modern filaments, like I believe Steve83 has done.

I'm looking into Streetglows for the Lincoln's 9004s, but I'm back to Sylvania Extravisons as one of my Silverstars burned out and I had the others on hand.

Thanks to that 3G alternator I can see into the next freakin' county at night !

Sixlitre

p.s./
I dunno if it holds us big guys but several guys here use that over the front tire step platform Habour Freight Tools has. Check it out on-line

spikedzombies
01-13-2008, 08:35 AM
Alright, im in a slight pickle..

http://www.pickupspecialties.com/Fey_Rear_Bumpers/Surestep_bumper/fey_surestep_rear_bumpers.htm

Local seller is selling that for $150 without mounting gear.

Or I can go with a non step-side paint-able bumper from lmc truck for $90

Sixlitre
01-13-2008, 02:55 PM
Alright, im in a slight pickle..

http://www.pickupspecialties.com/Fey_Rear_Bumpers/Surestep_bumper/fey_surestep_rear_bumpers.htm

Local seller is selling that for $150 without mounting gear.

Or I can go with a non step-side paint-able bumper from lmc truck for $90

Read rusts faster

For the extra $60.00 I'd go chrome, especially on an 80-86. Find out about the mounting kit first though.

And get the engine running better before you load the visa

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-13-2008, 08:11 PM
Read rusts faster

For the extra $60.00 I'd go chrome, especially on an 80-86. Find out about the mounting kit first though.

And get the engine running better before you load the visa

Sixlitre


LOL oh I planned on it. Im only doing what needs to be done right now, ill save the rest for later.. Right now im only purchasing items that garunteed need to be done to get the truck in working shape, starter, brakes/rotors, carb and some other minor things..

spikedzombies
01-13-2008, 11:01 PM
OK Back from my first little shopping adventure..

Purchased:

Edelbrock 1406 Carb + Throttle Adapter $280
Raybestos Rotors (2) and Brake Pads $105
Niehoff Ignition Cylinder $22
Autolite Starter (Brand New) $95
3ton Jack Set (Stands, Crawler, Jack) + Wheel Ramps $120

Misc Items - Paint Stripper, Reverse Light Bulb, Work Gloves, Gasket Sealer, Primer..

all in all I spent around $775 tonight, which should fix all problems with my engine except for the exhaust gaskets which I wont be doing and having someone else do it. Could have them install the Carb and do the Gaskets for about $100-$150 depending on how much needs to be done with the passenger side since it might need to be machined flat.

Spent about half my budget of $1500, Ill save the last $500 or so for interior work (Rust Bullet+Rhino Lining, Trim Repainting) and of course the Back bumper and the headlights and such..

so far so good..

spikedzombies
01-14-2008, 02:05 PM
Hey, can anyone tell me if the original manifold is a square bore and a spread bore? Are all the same on all 351w v8's?

spikedzombies
01-15-2008, 05:32 PM
Nvm, found out its a direct bolt on without any adapters. I will be purchasing a new air filter though to be able to fit the new carb.

Got the starter on today, finally.. one of the bolts was stripped and it took almost 2 days to get it off, purchased 2 new bolts and the new starter is on. A

Got the ignition cylinder done also, pain in the ass it was..

Started working a little on the interior, got the tailgate sanded, and primed with some black semi-flat rust primer, looks like brand new :D, now ill just add some anti scratch stuff so it wont scratch too much, I dont plan on adding the rhino lining to the tailgate.

Purchased some Interior Dye paint to repaint my trim and such along with painters tape and will get that done in the next day or 2.

Gonna try to get the passenger door lock fixed today before I take it in to get the carb and brakes/rotors done tomorrow.

After that Ill take it back over to the exhaust place and get the pipe they didnt weld all the way re-welded for free.

Still need to order the Rust Bullet and grab the rhino lining and start interior work.

Sixlitre
01-15-2008, 06:42 PM
Sounds like progress Spiked

Next time you install a nut or bolt that was holy he!! to get off, coat the threads in this stuff;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/169748/fullsize/img_0097.jpg

so it will never happen to ya again

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-15-2008, 08:21 PM
the only reason why it was hard to get off is because the head was totally stripped... dunno why..

Starts up in the first start now, just gotta fix that damn ignition key sticking by replacing the cylinder but I cant figure out why the **** I cant get the cylinder out.

I turn it to the neutral position with the steering unlocked but cant see the damn thing to poke with the paper clip..

any ideas?

djsk8r33
01-15-2008, 08:40 PM
:topic

and one other thing: if EITHER of you is gonna call someone a "douche", learn to SPELL IT CORRECTLY first. :smilie_slap

i was JUST about to post this. good thing i read up :doh0715:

Sixlitre
01-15-2008, 09:09 PM
the only reason why it was hard to get off is because the head was totally stripped... dunno why..

Starts up in the first start now, just gotta fix that damn ignition key sticking by replacing the cylinder but I cant figure out why the **** I cant get the cylinder out.

I turn it to the neutral position with the steering unlocked but cant see the damn thing to poke with the paper clip..

any ideas?

Yup

pick tools are far better. Someone here did a write up on it;

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70454&highlight=column

Pics and all !

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-15-2008, 09:39 PM
I read through Bobs thread a while ago, but still cant find that damn hole for the cylinder. I have no clue where the hell it is and ive been looking everywhere on that damn column.

dabranco
01-15-2008, 10:36 PM
Look under the cylinder will be a 1/4 inch opening and you can access it with a small flat head screw driver..

spikedzombies
01-15-2008, 10:51 PM
well both me and my dad must be blind as a ****ing bat cause neither of use see anything resembling what is supposed to be there..

anyways... got the passenger lock fixed, whoever told me to wd-40 the internals thank you that fixed the problem and now I can unlock my passenger door :D

btw here's a nice before and after shot of my tailgate... I sanded and grinded down the extreme parts and it shows

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/tailgate.jpg

and now after.. using some rust proofing primer should be fully dry by tomorrow

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/bumkperrepainted.jpg

Sixlitre
01-16-2008, 12:23 AM
Glad the WD-40 worked for ya (wasn't me that told you)

If you take that tailgate cover off(looks good BTW), be sure to grease the gears while you're in there.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-18-2008, 12:39 PM
Woot engine is done :D for now at least LOL

Carb is on and adjusted, Tailpipe is welded up, Starter was done earlier and now she runs like a champ.

When at the shop to get the tailpipe welded had him check do a quick inspection of the underbelly.

Shocks are decent but should be replaced in a few months if I plan on doing anything other than city driving (well duh)

Back brakes need to be turned and serviced (already knew that)

Oil change cause the ****ing idiot that did it last time used the new seal and the old seal at the same time which is making oil leak from the filter (dumb ****er) Good news is, the mech said she doesnt burn or leak any oil through the engine at all or the tranny.

Tranny filter change which I already knew about that and was gonna do anyways

apparently my ujoints are going out, cause when the dude was driving it he said when you put it into reverse it kicks, so I would love to know more about that here if you guys wanna help me lol.

Today im gonna do my oil/tranny filter and changes, do some interior work including starting on the painting of the trim, fixing my stupid defroster and greasing the back window track with wd-40 and other misc crap

Also was told I can add a ram-air intake system custom for the bko for less than $150 which I might think about at a later time.

Sixlitre
01-18-2008, 01:46 PM
Back brakes need to be turned and serviced (already knew that)


apparently my ujoints are going out, cause when the dude was driving it he said when you put it into reverse it kicks, so I would love to know more about that here if you guys wanna help me lol.

Today im gonna do my oil/tranny filter and changes, do some interior work including starting on the painting of the trim, fixing my stupid defroster and greasing the back window track with wd-40 and other misc crap

Also was told I can add a ram-air intake system custom for the bko for less than $150 which I might think about at a later time.

That all sounds good Spiked

All the backfiring and jerking into gear, at different rpms because of the p!$$ poor carb, probably didn't help your U-joints.

The only advice I'll offer you on U-joints is get a grease gun, fill it with synthetic grease cartridge and keep em' greased every month or oil change.

The other tidbit is whenever you replace one of your 9 U-joints, make sure you get the greaseable kind.

The three front joints, at the wheels and halfway under your TTB will require the flat needle type grease fittings, not the big, easier to get zerks.

Use some of that same synthetic grease on your tailgate window gears too as WD-40 doesn't stick around for the long haul.

Ask NAPA about a drain plug kit you can install in the bottom of your C-6 transmissions drain pan. After you've had your first "hot red oil" hair conditioning you'll understand why. They're about $5.00 from NAPA and they do the same thing as I did here;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/237980/fullsize/img_0085.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/237982/fullsize/img_0091.jpg

without the welding. They just sandwich together after you drill a small hole in the pan.

Without that stock fresh air hose going to your stock air cleaner you'll need to think of something to bring in fresh cold air to that new Edelbrock, but I dunno about the ram system......

be careful you ain't buying snake oil.

Sixlitre

nitrorustlerpro15
01-18-2008, 02:01 PM
well both me and my dad must be blind as a ****ing bat cause neither of use see anything resembling what is supposed to be there..

anyways... got the passenger lock fixed, whoever told me to wd-40 the internals thank you that fixed the problem and now I can unlock my passenger door :D

btw here's a nice before and after shot of my tailgate... I sanded and grinded down the extreme parts and it shows

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/tailgate.jpg

and now after.. using some rust proofing primer should be fully dry by tomorrow

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/bumkperrepainted.jpg




u gonna be doing the same thing with the interior of the entire truck?

spikedzombies
01-18-2008, 06:34 PM
Nitrous, I was told I could use that stuff as it is rust proof primer instead of buying the Rust Bullet or Por-15 but Im not too sure yet, ill add the rhino lining to it and see how well it works around the rear and do a small test area.

but i will be sanding the entire interior so I can do the rhino and the rust proofing but need to weld some spots shut first.

nitrorustlerpro15
01-18-2008, 07:25 PM
Nitrous, I was told I could use that stuff as it is rust proof primer instead of buying the Rust Bullet or Por-15 but Im not too sure yet, ill add the rhino lining to it and see how well it works around the rear and do a small test area.

but i will be sanding the entire interior so I can do the rhino and the rust proofing but need to weld some spots shut first.

ah. the rear of mine is lined with knock off rhino-lining. and they did a really bad job. also, i have to pull the carpet, and get a full kit. but of course, this is after i sand it down, get rid of the surface rust, and repaint it.

man, good luck on the interior work. cant wait to see it finished lol.

spikedzombies
01-18-2008, 08:05 PM
yeah what I need to do is figure out where to get a decent sand wheel for my drill, all the ones Ive found are cheaply made and dont do crap.

nitrorustlerpro15
01-18-2008, 11:39 PM
someone had a thread where he put on rust bullet. he used some thing called Quick-Strip, it was a wheel for a grinder, and it got down to the bare metal. really fast.

Sixlitre
01-19-2008, 01:51 AM
yeah what I need to do is figure out where to get a decent sand wheel for my drill, all the ones Ive found are cheaply made and dont do crap.

The hot ticket for stripping paint, rust, dirt, etc "without" stripping metal is not a wire brush wheel, but these new non-metal scotchbrite pads and wheels.

I used one after seeing my buddy do the whole underside of his 68' AMX. Cat's @$$, I'll never go mack to wire wheels;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/145325/fullsize/img_0023.jpg

You can get a wheel made of this stuff in black for your drill Spiked

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-19-2008, 08:57 AM
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MMM&MfrPartNumber=03171&CategoryCode=3272

thats what im using now, got it at shucks, if you can tell me where to get the stuff your using locally than lemme know and ill pick some up today. This doesnt remove crap, it takes almost a full minute to remove a single spot for some stupid reason, its very soft and does remove some but not like it should.

So lemme know the name and where I can pick some up :D

Sixlitre
01-19-2008, 12:27 PM
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=MMM&MfrPartNumber=03171&CategoryCode=3272

thats what im using now, got it at shucks, if you can tell me where to get the stuff your using locally than lemme know and ill pick some up today. This doesnt remove crap, it takes almost a full minute to remove a single spot for some stupid reason, its very soft and does remove some but not like it should.

So lemme know the name and where I can pick some up :D

Nope you're using the exact thing I had in mind Spiked

what you need is speed, with these plastic media wheels/discs. That little feller in the pics above turns as high as 22,000 rpms.

Few drills are gonna do that, but a grinder will get you closer. Forget top name brands, get the $20.00 house brand as you'll waste it doing bodywork.

I own a 7" monster grinder, a 5" and 4 1/2" as well as die grinder and dremel type tools. The 4 1/2" is by far the cheapest and frankly the most effective and versatile.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-19-2008, 12:49 PM
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242209-79992-FS6000FD&lpage=none
thats the drill I own, along with this sander
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242199-79992-FS2200QS&lpage=none
and this dremmel...
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94681-353-2850-02&lpage=none
and thats all I actually own for power tools, since I have no use for anything else...

i guess what ill have to do is go in and buy a cheapy grinder, $30 is cheap enough, I can always take it back when im finished LOL

Sixlitre
01-19-2008, 02:16 PM
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242209-79992-FS6000FD&lpage=none
thats the drill I own, along with this sander
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=242199-79992-FS2200QS&lpage=none
and this dremmel...
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94681-353-2850-02&lpage=none
and thats all I actually own for power tools, since I have no use for anything else...

i guess what ill have to do is go in and buy a cheapy grinder, $30 is cheap enough, I can always take it back when im finished LOL

Yeah

they just don't have the speeds you're looking for. Before you buy something like this;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=231604-38307-TF7AG&lpage=none

Be sure they have a disc with the plastic media or coating on it for you. Simply hitting your 24 model year old truck's metal with a sanding disk will rip way too much metal off. It'll also leave you with a lots of scratches to finish, fill and/or remove. It also opens you up to more rust.

All you really want off is rust, paint, etc. Ain't nuthin' like that scrotchbrite material for not damaging metal, but getting rid of the other stuff.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-19-2008, 04:17 PM
thats the one i purchased and they had some gator grit like the 3m i bought at shucks so i got both for $40

now i just gotta wait till the weekday so i dont bother niehbors and crap.

Sixlitre
01-19-2008, 09:25 PM
thats the one i purchased and they had some gator grit like the 3m i bought at shucks so i got both for $40

now i just gotta wait till the weekday so i dont bother niehbors and crap.

If you had a 3G Taurus alternator and a power inverter your could drive anywhere you liked and grind to your heart's content.

Got a buddy with one of those Toyota "shuttle craft" style minivans from 15 odd years ago. He did all his stereo install in the warmth of a downtown underground garage.

The few times he needed power, he just fired up the mini van and plugged in his drill (and my sheet metal nibbler) using his power inverter. Pretty smart when it's -20 outside his apartment parking lot.

He says he got the idea from my mid Winter body work. I'd grind and prep everything, mask it off, then assemble everything I'd need and head downtown to one of those deep, heated parking garages.

Once I got down there, I paid, we parked and I re-wiped the area clean with acetone (alcohol is good too). Then I dropped a newspaper on the ground (in case of over spray) and shot the area in primer.

We went and had dinner upstairs in the concourse, I whipped down and scuffed the area and shot it with paint.

We went off to a movie and I snuck out three times and shot two more coats on, then a final clear coat.

When we left I unmasked the area, presented the movie stub and didn't even pay for parking. Hows that for one cheap b@$turd:D

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-20-2008, 07:18 PM
ill get the alt swap done after I get the necessities done.. LOL

right now i started the interior trim painting with the doors, will post some before and after pics as soon as the first coat is dry.. its very cold outside and this crap is drying F A S T

after 3 coats, first side is done. brought it in the finish drying, will probably add a 2nd coat either tomorrow or tuesday, after it fully dries

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/DoorsHalfDone.jpg

and this is the before pic

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/DoorsPrePaint.jpg

spikedzombies
01-23-2008, 02:27 PM
FINALLY

2 of my 3 Manuals came today.. These 2 Haynes I got from the same person for $10.50 shipped... :D still awaiting my Chilton version which I got from another person for $5.50 shipped... so all in all I got all 3 manuals for $16 Shipped :D

this is the chiltons i ordered but for a very different price.. pretty sure I got an awesome deal and the right manuals LOL

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chilton-Ford-Pick-Ups-and-Bronco-1976-86-Repair-Manual_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34221QQihZ011QQi temZ320209463714QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/Ford%20Bronco/manuals.jpg

spikedzombies
01-27-2008, 04:18 PM
small update..

Got my heater fixed today, seems that it was the electrical clip not being plugged in 100% (go figure)

also got a $3 battery tie-down from autozone, best $3 choice ever :D

finishing up the door painting and such which should be done by mid week..

Also something strange.. My car died on my at a stop light today.. Dunno what happened but it started to chug chug and just die... any ideas?

Sixlitre
01-27-2008, 05:02 PM
small update..

Got my heater fixed today, seems that it was the electrical clip not being plugged in 100% (go figure)

also got a $3 battery tie-down from autozone, best $3 choice ever :D

finishing up the door painting and such which should be done by mid week..

Also something strange.. My car died on my at a stop light today.. Dunno what happened but it started to chug chug and just die... any ideas?

What kinda car ?

Is there water in the gas ? Slap in a bottle of gas line anti-freeze into the tank. Tis the season !

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-27-2008, 05:42 PM
What kinda car ?

Is there water in the gas ? Slap in a bottle of gas line anti-freeze into the tank. Tis the season !

Sixlitre

LOL YOU really asked that question? :doh0715:

MY BKO! :rofl:

I really dont know if its the gas I used or what.. But I stopped at the light, and all of a sudden while my foot was on the brake it started to chug and than it died..

It also tried to die on me while I was letting it warm up, could be a gas problem? My dad put in safeway gas and mixed it with my chevron gas...

Sixlitre
01-27-2008, 07:10 PM
LOL YOU really asked that question? :doh0715:

MY BKO! :rofl:

I really dont know if its the gas I used or what.. But I stopped at the light, and all of a sudden while my foot was on the brake it started to chug and than it died..

It also tried to die on me while I was letting it warm up, could be a gas problem? My dad put in safeway gas and mixed it with my chevron gas...

I dunno about Washington state

but they sell gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) everywhere up here. It helps the gas pass the water through the fuel system and out your tailpipe much easier.

If you can't find it can you pump in a couple of gallons of ethanol Spiked ?

That'd do the same thing for ya

Sixlitre

p.s./
You said "car" and a lot of us have had to get more efficient DDs and not drive the gas sucker every day. Thought you'd done the same

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-27-2008, 07:13 PM
I dunno about Washington state

but they sell gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) everywhere up here. It helps the gas pass the water through the fuel system and out your tailpipe much easier.

If you can't find it can you pump in a couple of gallons of ethanol Spiked ?

That'd do the same thing for ya

Sixlitre

p.s./
You said "car" and a lot of us have had to get more efficient DDs and not drive the gas sucker every day. Thought you'd done the same

Sixlitre

LOL the DD is currently being used by my mom to get to work today, and most other days. and all I did was take a trip to autozone with the bko which is less than 2 miles from my house :D ... btw 99% of my usage with the truck is within a 5 miles radius... which is a safeway, bank of american, mini mall, gas station, fast food and auto parts stores along with other interesting stuff..

Sixlitre
01-27-2008, 07:23 PM
LOL the DD is currently being used by my mom to get to work today, and most other days. and all I did was take a trip to autozone with the bko which is less than 2 miles from my house :D ... btw 99% of my usage with the truck is within a 5 miles radius... which is a safeway, bank of american, mini mall, gas station, fast food and auto parts stores along with other interesting stuff..

Short trips and cooling and warming weather on a less than full tank causes condensation in the tank (water formation).

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
01-27-2008, 07:50 PM
Short trips and cooling and warming weather on a less than full tank causes condensation in the tank (water formation).

Sixlitre

Well right now there's about 3/4 of a tank and it really never goes below a half..

Ill get some of the gas line antifreeze and toss it in..

spikedzombies
01-28-2008, 04:34 PM
Six, I was trying to read on the forums the proper way for shifting into 4x4 but seems im getting a little mixed up..

I know that before I start the truck to lock the hubs on my front wheels til they click and lock, Start the truck, and shift (auto tranny) into 4hi while rolling in drive right? And shift into 4 low for slower speeds while parked?

any write-ups for me I can take a look at?

Sixlitre
01-28-2008, 07:51 PM
Six, I was trying to read on the forums the proper way for shifting into 4x4 but seems im getting a little mixed up..

I know that before I start the truck to lock the hubs on my front wheels til they click and lock, Start the truck, and shift (auto tranny) into 4hi while rolling in drive right? And shift into 4 low for slower speeds while parked?

any write-ups for me I can take a look at?

Spiked

ou can't go wrong sitting still in park for 4 wheel high. On out older stick models I always stop and slip her into neutral to get her into 4-low.

Do you have the owner's manual still ?

Sixlitre

p.s./
Until you heat up and drop the ATF in the transfer case, expect it to be stiff to get into gear. After I dropped and change with plain ATF, then with sythetic, a week later, it's been smooth shifting ever since.

Expecting some snow in Washington ? We're getting freezing rain tomorrow !:shocked

spikedzombies
01-28-2008, 08:43 PM
we got 3 inches last night which is why im asking..

Never got an owners manual so I really dont know where to get one either.

Also On my 4x4 shifter I have 2H 4H N and 4L

so what your saying is put the hubs into 4x4 lock, start the truck, shift into 4H and than start driving?

EDIT*

Instead of buying new rims, im having my stock rims powder coated black. whats the best 33" tire options for the stock 15" rims? also i was thinking of grabbing these tires. http://discounttires.com/product_detail.php?c=OTlkODJjMmZlZjdkZjMyMWRlMWIwZ jJlNTNlMTZjMWE=&prodID=1240 or something like them..

i was thinking 33x10.5x15, but whats the widest I can go without a new rim and problems?

Sixlitre
01-28-2008, 10:57 PM
we got 3 inches last night which is why im asking..

Never got an owners manual so I really dont know where to get one either.

Also On my 4x4 shifter I have 2L 2H N and 4H

so what your saying is put the hubs into 4x4 lock, start the truck, shift into 4H and than start driving?

EDIT*

Instead of buying new rims, im having my stock rims powder coated black. whats the best 33" tire options for the stock 15" rims? also i was thinking of grabbing these tires. http://discounttires.com/product_detail.php?c=OTlkODJjMmZlZjdkZjMyMWRlMWIwZ jJlNTNlMTZjMWE=&prodID=1240 or something like them..

i was thinking 33x10.5x15, but whats the widest I can go without a new rim and problems?

You'll be fine shifting that way

Shift on the fly is not a good idea with our years.

You'll need someone else on tire choice, I stick with 235/75/15s. A/Ts in the Winter, and to wheel with, and A/Ps (same size) the rest of the year.

I find the difference is as much as 2 mpg when I change over to the less aggressive tires.

You may have to re-gear for 33s and your speedo will be way out. Frankly I've driven through one winter with near bald passenger tires and been fine once I slipped her into 4WD.

Sixlitre

nitrorustlerpro15
01-28-2008, 11:12 PM
for the tires, im thinkin' if the rims are 8" wide, the 10.50's will be fine. if they're 10" wide, both the 10.5" and 12.5" would work. the only problem is, it may not track as well on the street. but who cares if you're 4-byin' right?

A1Fiddler
01-28-2008, 11:12 PM
2L - 2H - N - 4H? What the heck kind of transfer case do you have? I'm guessing it was just a typo, but I am curious.

spikedzombies
01-29-2008, 12:19 AM
I have no idea yet what transfer case I have as I have yet to get under and get dirty enough to check.. LOL but here's a pic of my shifter knob

and yes there's a slight typo, I mean 4L instead of 2L LOL... so it was 4L, N, 2H, 4H

could they mean 2L by the N?

and whats the difference between L and H gears? got a linky to help me out? But im guessing Slow speeds for Low and High speeds for High? and should I keep the shifter in the N place instead of 2H?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a54/spikedzombies/shiftknob.jpg

nitrorustlerpro15
01-29-2008, 12:24 AM
no, keep it in 2H.

spikedzombies
01-29-2008, 12:26 AM
no, keep it in 2H.

OK now what do you recommend regular snow travel in? 2H or 4H? also why does mine have a N instead of 2L?

tommy83
01-29-2008, 12:31 AM
2H = 2 wheel drive high gear.
4H = 4 wheel drive high gear.
N = Neutral
4L = 4 wheel drive low gear (for when you need slow, powerful gutsy 4X4 -e.g. crawling. Lots of Engine RPM + power with minimal turning of the axles)

For the road, keep it in 2H.

Edit - for snow covered roads and you are slipping... 4H is fine. If you get traction, back off to 2H. With good tires you should be fine if you don't drive like a maniac.

86bronco64
01-29-2008, 12:33 AM
there is no 2L. N means the transfer case is in neutral. In snow, go with 2H til the snow is too bad to be in 2 wheel drive, then go with 4H.

tommy83
01-29-2008, 12:36 AM
BTW - mine's like yours. The way I've always shifted into 4x4 is to put transmission in neutral at stop (truck on or off, it doesn't matter), shift transfer case to desired gear, lock or unlock hubs, and go. You got me curious as to what the manual says now...

spikedzombies
01-29-2008, 12:55 AM
looks like im learning new stuff every day :D

and the truck tranny has to be in N when going into 4x4? and I still drive in D right? LOL

EDIT*

Also a funny story, IT seems that sometimes when turning on my car, the electrical doesnt come on (lights, Heat, Blinkers and such) but after I turn it off than right back on everything works again, grimlin?

tommy83
01-29-2008, 01:31 AM
looks like im learning new stuff every day :D

and the truck tranny has to be in N when going into 4x4? and I still drive in D right? LOL

Don't feel bad. I've been learning new stuff since I found this site, and expect to for some time! :thumbup When I first got my truck I would try to put the T-case from 2h to 4h when in gear, or in park... and the grinding noise I got and felt thru the shifter was pretty memorable. Not something I wanted to repeat. Tranny in Neutral, dead stop works best for my baby.

Edit - might want to start shopping for that 3G alternator. And let me know if you find a good place to get it cuz I'm in the market too.

spikedzombies
01-29-2008, 01:36 AM
yeah im gonna do that as soon as I find a new job LOL

spikedzombies
02-02-2008, 01:03 AM
WOOT

Gonna head out tomorrow to take a look at a guys 1980 Bronco he's parting out and see what I can grab for cheap, also called an old granny up with an 84 and a blown motor to see what I can get for free or cheap :D

Sixlitre
02-02-2008, 01:22 AM
Also a funny story, IT seems that sometimes when turning on my car, the electrical doesnt come on (lights, Heat, Blinkers and such) but after I turn it off than right back on everything works again, grimlin?

It's the grease in your column getting old and cold

The key turns back but the switch ain't keeping up.

Take it easy on the tilt mechanism or you'll break something you don't want to have to replace :shocked

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-02-2008, 02:26 AM
It's the grease in your column getting old and cold

The key turns back but the switch ain't keeping up.

Take it easy on the tilt mechanism or you'll break something you don't want to have to replace :shocked

Sixlitre

lol my column doesnt have tilt which im kinda happy about :D

and no the key doesnt turn back unless I make it turn back which, which makes me think I should get that re-greased asap before I screw something up like grind out my starter and such LOL

Calf_roper_John
02-02-2008, 10:21 AM
Painting it flat black?

"here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture10.jpg
the car before:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg

here's a few pics of the charger done:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02764.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02769.jpg

well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy bumpers, door handles it just sticks out more. "

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

I am fixing to do this on my ol' red pick-up.

BigDippin
02-02-2008, 10:44 AM
I know a few people that has done the $50 paint job. Doesn't turn out bad but the key is sanding, sanding, and more sanding. For the price, its worth it IMO.

Sixlitre
02-07-2008, 05:30 PM
McBump:popc1:

How's it coming along ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-07-2008, 05:34 PM
going very slow six..

i still have that problem with the idle though.

Ill start the truck up let it warm up, have it idle down, but it will start to stutter and crap and wanna die.. it will do that at stop lights and crap till it warms up fully or I stop the car when I get to my place.. Than after I start it up again it wont do it at all..

Only does it when im at a full stop at a light or the truck is just idling in park..

tommy83
02-07-2008, 08:38 PM
Hey... didn't read thru the whole thread... but just wondering if you tested that EGR or checked the condition? I wish I had taken pics of mine. My choke had been stuck for a while after sitting a few years and it did the same thing - stumbled, stalled at idle, but did fine at speed. Cleaned the carb and freed the choke up with choke cleaner, and the idle speed was now better, but it still idled terribly. Took the EGR off and the valve was totally gummed up. Tested it with a vacuum gauge, it held vacuum (if it doesn't, it's time for a new EGR). Cleaned the EGR with choke cleaner (careful not to let any into the diaphragm) and it ran great. Did this twice, as some more gunk worked its way up into the EGR and started the idle stalling again. Been running better and better since the second cleaning. I may even get 12 miles per gallon on the current tank! (How's your gas mileage, BTW?) Another thought is to check for vacuum leaks. Hope you find the problem.

spikedzombies
02-07-2008, 10:13 PM
well i know it has a leak by the exhaust manifold, but ill check the egr valve and see what it looks like.

Sixlitre
02-07-2008, 11:20 PM
Sounds like the EGR is worth looking into alright

and that exhaust leak. You have the new plug wires on there yet ?

Well done Tommy

12 mpg from a carbed 351 is nuthin' to sniff at, especially in the Winter months.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-08-2008, 12:04 AM
I already know the seals and crap need to get replaced for the exhaust, thats the only leaking in the exhaust system right now but cant afford the $250 to get them done yet..

Ill check the EGR valve this weekend.

Can anyone point me to a picture of its location? I checked my manuals but cant find a clear pinpoint location picture... and about how much do they cost to get replaced?

Sixlitre
02-08-2008, 12:36 AM
I already know the seals and crap need to get replaced for the exhaust, thats the only leaking in the exhaust system right now but cant afford the $250 to get them done yet..

Ill check the EGR valve this weekend.

Can anyone point me to a picture of its location? I checked my manuals but cant find a clear pinpoint location picture... and about how much do they cost to get replaced?

Here's pic (and pricing of it)

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=282&ptset=A&searchfor=EGR+Valve

It's located on your intake manifold (between the valve covers and under the carb).

Are you sure you don't have a tilt column Spiked ?

I didn't know I had one for the first year I owned mine:brownbag Someone showed me you push the turnstalk forward and the column tilts.

Is that the best price they'll give you for changing the header gaskets ? What about that reasonable guy who offered to do your carb ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-08-2008, 01:27 AM
yeah im sure I dont have tilt, as my steering column does not have access to the release button for the ignition without taking the steering column covers off.. but ill tripple check.

So can the EGR valve be gotten off and on without removing anything? or are they a PITA? I think ill check auto zones prices + rewards card gets me $20 after my next purchase anyways..

This is from the guy doing the carb. His computer (shows the average time for the job at his cost of labor) + parts and it shows for both the Passenger and the Driver for $250 with both parts and labor... Im not sure if that includes shaving the heads if needed but I think he said that would be extra. I really dont want to do it myself as I have no experience.

tommy83
02-08-2008, 02:00 AM
EGR is simple to remove and get back on. Can be done in about 10 mins with a wrench. Two nuts and an eletrical connector. On mine it is directly behind the carb, facing the firewall. Take off the air cleaner and it's about as far back on top of the engine as you can get. Mine bolts up to the throttle body (I think that's what it's called?). I think the location is different on 302s vs. 351s... Last I checked they were pricey at the parts store (~$80?). If I were you I'd see if yours can be cleaned up, and holds vacuum... first.

Six - ya thanks I was pretty happy about the gas mileage, especially since it's a C6 3speed with 4.11 gears. Been going easy on the skinny pedal lately...

spikedzombies
02-08-2008, 02:15 AM
yeah that shouldnt be a problem to get to.. and shucks wants $40 for a new one, autozone wants about $25... so i might as well use carb cleaner on it, if that helps than good, if not $25 isnt too bad ...

btw... I dont know if its good or not... but around 225 miles per tank means im getting around 9-11mpg in the city the way she runs now.. that good or bad?

Jakes85Bronco
02-08-2008, 02:41 AM
BTW - mine's like yours. The way I've always shifted into 4x4 is to put transmission in neutral at stop (truck on or off, it doesn't matter), shift transfer case to desired gear, lock or unlock hubs, and go. You got me curious as to what the manual says now...



In my fsb on the visor it has the instructions on what the "proper" procedure is of locking my hubs in, and putting it in 4X4. Im not going to mention the obvious but I will say that you should be at a stop and Trans. in nuetral put your T-case in desired gearing "4-hi/4-lo." then you should drive ten feet in opisite direction you were drivin in b4 you switched to 4X4 in a straight line.
then to dissingage repeat those same steps only put the T'case in 2hi. Drive in opisite direction you were drivin in while in 4x4 for ten feet.
I've done a rolling switch to 4lo to 4hi but i dont think i would 4hi to 4lo.
Not with my tires and current gears...

Cbowman622
02-08-2008, 04:14 AM
real men pull there rig into 4-lo while doing 45 on a gravel road, lock the back tires and slide into a ditch and roll about 3 times

yea, my neighbors son ruined a perfectly good bronco, i was sad 8-(

tommy83
02-08-2008, 09:49 AM
if not $25 isnt too bad ...

Dagum. Yer fortunate - my EGR's at the zone are WAY over that.

Again - with the choke cleaner, don't let any seep into the diaphragm - that will destroy it. Keep the valve pointed down while u clean the valve and work it up and down with your fingers. (You'll see what I mean when you get the EGR off.)

btw... I dont know if its good or not... but around 225 miles per tank means im getting around 9-11mpg in the city the way she runs now.. that good or bad?

Well that's not horrible, but it might get better. Mine was getting much worse when the EGR was malfunctioning. That makes me think it might just be your gasket leaks... Just my .02. Worth about that much too. :toothless

Sixlitre
02-08-2008, 10:50 AM
real men pull there rig into 4-lo while doing 45 on a gravel road, lock the back tires and slide into a ditch and roll about 3 times

yea, my neighbors son ruined a perfectly good bronco, i was sad 8-(

Down right disgustin' if you ask me !

Was his Dad even upset about it ?

Tommy

with 4.11 gears you get a gold star for mileage like that !

I agree Spiked mileage ain't that bad, especially considering that's nearly all city on a carb.

That EGR was made and sold with the truck in 84', making it 24 years old. At that price I'd be inclined to replace it. If it grabs him even one mpg it will pay off in a couple of tanks.

Spiked

You have long tube headers right ? Milling the faces of the heads, where the manifolds bolt too is unnecessary IMHO.

If you use nice thick, quality gaskets like these;

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/129861/fullsize/img_0429.jpg

and he cinches them down right there shouldn't oughta be any leaks. With headers it's just that they burn their gaskets if the bolts aren't tight enough or if things get loose over time.

Can you see the raised rings over the flanges in this pic ?

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/126875/fullsize/sum-g9014.jpg

That's more of a protrusion than the worst warped head could produce, and yet with good gaskets it will seal fine.

Are you sure he isn't talking about milling for an intake manifold leak ? That would mean you have a vacuum leak and that would definitely cause some of the symptoms you're describing.

Sixlitre

Sixlitre
02-15-2008, 10:16 PM
McBump:popc1:

How's it coming along Spiked?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-15-2008, 10:38 PM
so far so good..

The last of the stuff hopefully should get done within the next few weeks/paychecks.. I've been looking into junkyards lately for misc parts and crap, but also been working my ass off... and unfortunately my first check for my new job I got 1 day in before the pay period ended, so yeah ... lol

Still gonna get the EGR done this weekend, ive learned how to get it working without a problem enough to use it..

Still gonna have to make sure the manifold bolts arent broken off or rusted the heads off.. lol

will probably get the gaskets and crap done over the next few weeks also..

that should actually be the only thing that needs to be done in the engine bay.. well the 3g swap but when everything else is done first..

Sixlitre
02-15-2008, 11:45 PM
So you're able to drive it to work each day ?

That's good news

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-15-2008, 11:58 PM
So you're able to drive it to work each day ?

That's good news

Sixlitre

oh yeah, it runs just fine after its warmed up, only when its cold is when it does the bogging down and trying to die crap..

spikedzombies
02-27-2008, 12:57 PM
ok well after getting the idle crap fixed w00t i finally got finished with that full tank of gas and a decent mileage estimate.

Remind you, this is 95% City/Street and 5% Highway

Filled at 103, Empty at 278 took 23.6 Gallons with at least another 5 miles in the tank, didnt run out cause i didnt have a gas tank with me to fill up.. :)

so im estimating 7.5 MPG on Crappy Tires Barely Treaded Tires, Bad Front End Alignment, Leaking Exhaust Manifold, Bad Shocks and of course an Unknown Tune-up.. and half of this is with the bad idle also.. fixed the idle problem around half a tank..

LOL

Also gonna take it over friday and get the exhaust manifold checked to see if the bolts are broken or missing, is just missing it can be done for $70 or ill do it myself

Also got a $20 off $30 or more coupon for firestone so im gonna see about getting my front end aligned on my next payday also.

Sixlitre
02-27-2008, 01:44 PM
ok well after getting the idle crap fixed w00t i finally got finished with that full tank of gas and a decent mileage estimate.

Remind you, this is 95% City/Street and 5% Highway

Filled at 103, Empty at 278 took 23.6 Gallons with at least another 5 miles in the tank, didnt run out cause i didnt have a gas tank with me to fill up.. :)

so im estimating 7.5 MPG on Crappy Tires Barely Treaded Tires, Bad Front End Alignment, Leaking Exhaust Manifold, Bad Shocks and of course an Unknown Tune-up.. and half of this is with the bad idle also.. fixed the idle problem around half a tank..

LOL

Also gonna take it over friday and get the exhaust manifold checked to see if the bolts are broken or missing, is just missing it can be done for $70 or ill do it myself

Also got a $20 off $30 or more coupon for firestone so im gonna see about getting my front end aligned on my next payday also.

You'll be much better once you get that exhaust leak fixed and now that the idle troubles are over. That would have affected your mileage in a very negative way, particularly the high idle due to the choke.

Any exhaust leak ahead of the tailpipe is also a big loss in power and mileage. Don't let the alignment hoosiers suck you into new tires then and there.

Do some research, as I know you do, and get the best deal on tires elsewhere, if need be, but be aware of what a "good deal" actually is on 235/75/15s (stock size).

You gotta be honest with yourself Spiked. If you do 95% city driving you should probably steer towards stock sized tires.

It's my experience, with respect to mileage, that taller, heavier tires scrub mileage off pretty darn quick. Just changing back from my 32" mudders, after the Arctic, to stock sizes netted me a solid 2 mpg.

I scored an extra set of junkyard rims just so I could have Winter/Offroad tires and Summers (3/4s of the year).

Both sets are 235/75/15s, but the knobbier LT235/75/15 ATs cost me over 1 mpg+ when they're on the truck.

After I faced up to the fact my Bronco is 98% urban assault vehicle I went shopping for a not too aggressive tread pattern in a 235/75/15 (for running around the city and quiet on the hwy).

Special order Willie at CTC let me cruise the tire racks in the back and we found that most heavy SUVs are using "P" tires with an 8 ply rating.

They were an awesome price with an even better weight rating and ply rating than an identical tread in an LT tire.

For $5.00 a tire I sprung for that unlimited replacement warantee and it's paid off several times now, with free patches and a free tire to date.

If I want to offroad or now, in the Winter, I've got the knobbies, but for the rest of the year 2 mpg saves me enough gas to easily afford an extra set of tires.

Sixlitre

tommy83
02-27-2008, 05:30 PM
Curious -- what was the problem with the idle?

spikedzombies
02-28-2008, 01:23 AM
Curious -- what was the problem with the idle?

stuck rusted open thermostat causing the choke to give away faster is what I believe it was.. I know that It went away when I put in a new thermo.

I keep wondering why it feels sluggish, guess the manifold fix will hopefully fix that..

also I think ive gone against doing 33's right now, ill go ahead with stock 31's and decent tread and maybe later after i decide on the lift ill do something else.. but im trying to find a decent new set of rims that are at least 8-10 wide..

These were the tires i was thinking of when i do get around to it.

http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overview/mud-terrain-t-a-km2/3930.html

or maybe just the AT/KO in the 31 or 275 flavor..

spikedzombies
02-29-2008, 06:29 PM
Update*

Idle problem, backfire problem fixed.

Exhaust manifold had no leak, one bolt missing and not broken so that was replaced.

This is what pisses me off. The carb was installed correctly but the hoses were on backwards and the air/fuel and idle and timing was WAY OFF

So my new best friend Adjusted the Air/Fuel and Idle along with fix the timing problem. The timing was at 3 0!!!!!! so the idiots that did it totally ****ed it up.

So that fixed my backfire problem, but in the midst if the backfire persists more than likely its a cam problem which is another slighty easy fix.

Ujoints on the driveshaft are gone, almost literally.. The back joints are so screwed that they can break at any time which is why im getting them replaced mid week next week both the front and back 2 for $100 parts and labor.

Also gonna need 2 new back shocks, fronts are fine but since im doing a lift im not gonna worry bout it right now since they are still decent enough.

All in al 99% of my problems with the engine are fixed for free. and im about to sue the idiots that didnt do it correctly the first time. Also they didnt ****ing bleed the brakes correctly so theres still air in the brakes *sigh*

Anyways the ujoints will be done around thur, so ill use my dads car for now.

The front axle ball or ujoints? are going bad also which is causing the shitty tire wear in the tires and should fix that problem and getting a front end alignment afterwords if needed.

all in all it was a very good day for my truck, and i found an ASE Certified mechanic that is cheap, straight to the point, and honest.. which i find is very ****ing rare and he knows what he's talking about since he has worked on tons of 351 windsor v8s and has a awesome 68 mustang.

later guys

Need4racin
02-29-2008, 07:39 PM
Don't worry about shocks right now.. The worst they could do is "feather" your tires you have on there now.

spikedzombies
02-29-2008, 07:45 PM
im not gonna worry bout the shocks till after I get my lift up and ready to be put on.

Sixlitre
02-29-2008, 08:03 PM
Update*

Also they didnt ****ing bleed the brakes correctly so theres still air in the brakes *sigh*

Anyways the ujoints will be done around thur, so ill use my dads car for now.

The front ball joints? are going bad also which is causing the shitty tire wear in the tires and should fix that problem and getting a front end alignment afterwords if needed.


later guys

That's great news Spiked

Especially about the timing/carb adjustments and the exhaust leak being fixed. You can expect a major mileage improvement now I'll bet.

Getting the brakes bled Thursday will be good and $100.00 for the two rear U-joints, installed, ain't bad.

Start saving up for the ball joints though, they can be pricey to have installed.

The stealership quoted me 11 hours labour and some special @r$e-reaming price on the parts "just for me".

My local mechanic got me to source the parts and he stuck em' in for $300.00 as well as greasing (and replacing one) my inner spindle bearings just in time (before the spindle got damaged from lack of grease).

Have you considered air shocks ?

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/17937

I swear by mine, but then it's now pretty much an urban Bronco

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
02-29-2008, 08:58 PM
im actually not sure what type of shocks im going with yet.

Im trying to find out if the stock shocks are usable in lift kits like the 4inch Rough County and such.

spikedzombies
02-29-2008, 09:04 PM
well im trying to figure out if i buy shocks now, if i can use them with the lift kit i buy later, or just wait and buy the kit with shocks?

also its $100 for both the 2 back and front ujoints, so all 4 are getting done for $100..

Sixlitre
02-29-2008, 09:23 PM
well im trying to figure out if i buy shocks now, if i can use them with the lift kit i buy later, or just wait and buy the kit with shocks?

also its $100 for both the 2 back and front ujoints, so all 4 are getting done for $100..

I'm confused

the ball joints are UBER expensive and would be responsible for your tire wear. The U-joints, which basically connect driveshafts to things are a separate thing entirely.

Getting four U-joints supplied and installed for $100.00 is a STEAL my friend.

I know very little about lifts, but I'd wager stock shocks(air or otherwise) will not work on a 4" lift IIRC what others have said here.

FYI shocks are not a real safety issue, like brakes, or ball joints can be. You might be able to leave them be until the lift.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-07-2008, 03:41 PM
OK im back with updates..

Got the U-Joint replaced on my rear driveline to rear axle and it fixed the issues with my clunking and crap. Only cost me about $90 with parts and labor.

Now I find out my Brake booster is leaking which is causing my bad idle because the vacuum is leaking out of the brake booster, so $100 will fix the idle problem, brake problem and the very very small backfire according to the mechanic. The engine when pressing the brake loses power because of the leak.

Next up is the u-joints for the outer front tires at about $150.

Also found out that the Transfer Case in my truck is almost new. Seems like its been replaced in the past 2-4 years which means its a semi new case.

All in all my truck is running awesome, and after next year I can finally remove the Cat and run straight exhaust and give myself some more power.

Bigotis21
03-07-2008, 06:14 PM
good work!

spikedzombies
03-07-2008, 06:31 PM
heh, now being told the backfire is the camshaft... so there's $400 replacement with labor.. :( *sigh* no fun this summer for me

but

he will have the camshaft done within 1 day :P

anyways i think i have a final list of whats left..

Camshaft, Outer U-Joints, Brake Booster, Ignition Cylinder, Leaky Windshield

And eventually.. Tires/Rims and Shocks..

lol almost got me a decent running truck

Sixlitre
03-07-2008, 08:34 PM
heh, now being told the backfire is the camshaft... so there's $400 replacement with labor.. :( *sigh* no fun this summer for me

but

he will have the camshaft done within 1 day :P

anyways i think i have a final list of whats left..

Camshaft, Outer U-Joints, Brake Booster, Ignition Cylinder, Leaky Windshield

And eventually.. Tires/Rims and Shocks..

lol almost got me a decent running truck

I'll buy most of their diagnosis

but what do they say is wrong with the camshaft Spiked ? I thought yours was a fairly new aftermarket (not stock) cam ?

Unless it thinks it's a Chev and wiped off a lobe (very common on smallblock Chebbies:toothless), what could be wrong with your camshaft ?

The other caution flag is $150.00 for the front U-joints at the wheels. They're all of $12.00 each. How much labour is he estimating ?

You're a pretty patient customer Spiked

Sixlitre

p.s./
we'll celebrate when you run catless through the streets

spikedzombies
03-08-2008, 01:09 AM
he's saying the camshaft is probably worn out and not allowing the valve to open after hard on throttle on the engine which might be causing the backfire, as it only really does it now after i get off the freeway during deceleration.

$150 for the parts and labor only because he says its about 1.5 hours to do both sides cause he has to take off the whole hub assembly? and said usually they take about 1.5/2 hours to do both sides fully. and the u-joints are about $30 with taxes so its really only $120 for labor.

And no its the stock cam shaft as far as I know and has never been replaced.

I really trust this guy because he did about $500 worth of work for free for me getting the idle, fuel mixture, and a bunch of other stuff done. And he allows you to sit their and watch his work while its being done. He's certified and is almost brutally honest. Even offer to do some welding for free on my back tailgate..

and yes im a patient customer. and i cant wait to run catless through the streets drowning out all those damn ricers and their stupid coffe can mufflers.

Also some other devastating news.. on the way out of town to get my laptop fixed my dads subaru blew the spark plug out the engine and it cost us $200 to tow home, about 45 miles to be exact. So another $150 should get that fixed with a helicoil and labor. pisses me off too..

GTRider245
03-08-2008, 11:00 AM
I would suggest doing the front end yourself. It is VERY easy to do with simple hand tools. Most of us that have done it multiple times can have the front end tore down to spindles in 10 minutes. Go ahead and tear it down to do the outer u-joints, and while it is all apart take the knuckles to have the balljoints pressed in and save yourself some labor in that dept.

Replace everything from the spindle out. You will have a brand new front end pretty much and it can all be done for under $200 parts. Just add labor for the u-joint and balljoint pressing.

Sixlitre
03-09-2008, 12:54 AM
he's saying the camshaft is probably worn out and not allowing the valve to open after hard on throttle on the engine which might be causing the backfire, as it only really does it now after i get off the freeway during deceleration.

$150 for the parts and labor only because he says its about 1.5 hours to do both sides cause he has to take off the whole hub assembly? and said usually they take about 1.5/2 hours to do both sides fully. and the u-joints are about $30 with taxes so its really only $120 for labor.

And no its the stock cam shaft as far as I know and has never been replaced.

I really trust this guy because he did about $500 worth of work for free for me getting the idle, fuel mixture, and a bunch of other stuff done. And he allows you to sit their and watch his work while its being done. He's certified and is almost brutally honest. Even offer to do some welding for free on my back tailgate..

and yes im a patient customer. and i cant wait to run catless through the streets drowning out all those damn ricers and their stupid coffe can mufflers.

Also some other devastating news.. on the way out of town to get my laptop fixed my dads subaru blew the spark plug out the engine and it cost us $200 to tow home, about 45 miles to be exact. So another $150 should get that fixed with a helicoil and labor. pisses me off too..

As long as he's trustworthy Spiked

Glad the spark plug didn't go through the hood, like Chevy fan blade. I was in a Chevy when that happened once. Scared the crap out of us :shocked

The strange thing was it happened to that guy's truck three times :shocked, though it only went through the hood once(or was it twice :scratchhe?.).

I'll never own a 305 that's for sure

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-09-2008, 01:06 AM
yah i find him very trustworthy to be honest.

I do however need to get my ICM fixed before i cant start my truck anymore :( lol

spikedzombies
03-10-2008, 03:01 PM
ok well the car is now fixed, $106.16 total with parts and labor :) gotta love the helicoil kits.

now back to my truck lol, probably gonna get a new tailgate over the next week or 2 and replace mine.

spikedzombies
03-10-2008, 07:09 PM
now im starting to get a weird problem.

My truck runs great on streets but as soon as I hit the highway past 55 mph the truck loses power and starts to slow down and once i let the gas off and it gets below 55 and hit the gas it will start to speed back up.

Ive already checked my fuel filter on the carb and its clean, gonna add a in-line fuel filter for extra protection only because the carb filter kinda sucks.

So anyone know what might be the problem? Seriously runs find until 55mph, and its only after a mile or 2 on the freeway.

Sixlitre
03-10-2008, 08:54 PM
now im starting to get a weird problem.

My truck runs great on streets but as soon as I hit the highway past 55 mph the truck loses power and starts to slow down and once i let the gas off and it gets below 55 and hit the gas it will start to speed back up.

Ive already checked my fuel filter on the carb and its clean, gonna add a in-line fuel filter for extra protection only because the carb filter kinda sucks.

So anyone know what might be the problem? Seriously runs find until 55mph, and its only after a mile or 2 on the freeway.

Now that you no longer have an exhaust leak you may need the carb and timing settings adjusted slightly

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-10-2008, 10:00 PM
Now that you no longer have an exhaust leak you may need the carb and timing settings adjusted slightly

Sixlitre

Carb Fuel/Air was adjusted along with timing and idle after the exhaust was fixed the same day.

Clogged Cat? Or more sinister fuel problem?

Fuel pump is hopefully not the problem, but if it is i was gonna convert to an electric fuel pump if thats possible.

Clogged cat might a problem, but after next june i dont have emissions anymore and it will be gone or gutted (either one)

Could it be vapor locking at high speeds? Air getting into the lines somewhere? Maybe through the gas cap? or a crack in the lines?

Ill check the lines by the engine to see if they are too close to the exhaust and getting heated up.

Should i remove the carb fuel filter and just add an inline?

more info on this is appreciated before i go nuts. :goodfinge

Sixlitre
03-11-2008, 12:35 AM
Carb Fuel/Air was adjusted along with timing and idle after the exhaust was fixed the same day.

Clogged Cat? Or more sinister fuel problem?

Fuel pump is hopefully not the problem, but if it is i was gonna convert to an electric fuel pump if thats possible.

Clogged cat might a problem, but after next june i dont have emissions anymore and it will be gone or gutted (either one)

Could it be vapor locking at high speeds? Air getting into the lines somewhere? Maybe through the gas cap? or a crack in the lines?

Ill check the lines by the engine to see if they are too close to the exhaust and getting heated up.

Should i remove the carb fuel filter and just add an inline?

more info on this is appreciated before i go nuts. :goodfinge

Could be the first two items for sure.

Start cheap and check air and fuel filter. Mechanical fuel pump is ridiculously cheap and easy to replace.

They can test for clogged cats too.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-11-2008, 01:20 PM
air filter is almost a brand new fram air filter less than a few months old and still looks brand new.

as for the fuel filter, like i said the only one i seem to have is on the carb itself and is not clogged either.

how do i test my cat?

spikedzombies
03-14-2008, 03:08 PM
getting the fuel pump replaced as its whats causing my problems and it started screwing up on the streets now also.

Sixlitre
03-14-2008, 08:35 PM
air filter is almost a brand new fram air filter less than a few months old and still looks brand new.

as for the fuel filter, like i said the only one i seem to have is on the carb itself and is not clogged either.

how do i test my cat?

Spiked

Most stealerships and "some" exhaust shops have flow meters they can slap on the tailpipe for you.

As far as the fuel pump goes, for carbs, I'd stay away from electric. You can't beat a brand new mechanical pump, like this one from Carter for less than $22.00;

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=52&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Fuel+Pump

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-14-2008, 08:39 PM
yea im just gonna put a high flow on their for the cat when i get the extra cash.

as for the fuel pump i was told that the electric would be alot better.

spikedzombies
03-15-2008, 10:44 PM
well pumps in, and it still runs like complete crap :(

i really dont know where the fk to start.

Pump was replaced but pedal still takes some oomph to get the car moving, i lightly use the pedal and the truck will go but very very slowly, half way down the truck will finally get some get up and go.

It died at a stop sign, it idles fine but as soon as i take off it has a hesitation.

anyone have any ideas?

oh and the lifters are making a great noise on the passenger side ;)

Sixlitre
03-15-2008, 11:41 PM
well pumps in, and it still runs like complete crap :(

i really dont know where the fk to start.

Pump was replaced but pedal still takes some oomph to get the car moving, i lightly use the pedal and the truck will go but very very slowly, half way down the truck will finally get some get up and go.

It died at a stop sign, it idles fine but as soon as i take off it has a hesitation.

anyone have any ideas?

oh and the lifters are making a great noise on the passenger side ;)

Spiked

Post these symptoms and your engine and year (and carb) and what you've done so far

in a new separate post in the tech section

We need some carb specialists on this.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-16-2008, 12:02 AM
bah posted it in the wrong damn forum lol.. ill have it moved, wait.. shouldnt it be in the 80s'?

Sixlitre
03-16-2008, 12:59 AM
bah posted it in the wrong damn forum lol.. ill have it moved, wait.. shouldnt it be in the 80s'?

Sorry Spiked Q&A section

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-16-2008, 01:38 AM
its been posted and moved thanks to redwagon.

Now that I can hopefully get those questions answered..

Have any nice writeups on changing the brake booster? lol im down to the last few things that need to be done.

Brake Booster, Front U-Joints, Shocks, Summer Tune-Up, Leaky Windshield, and than the extra non important crap :P like paint, tailgate and interior.

Sixlitre
03-16-2008, 03:23 AM
its been posted and moved thanks to redwagon.

Now that I can hopefully get those questions answered..

Have any nice writeups on changing the brake booster? lol im down to the last few things that need to be done.

Brake Booster, Front U-Joints, Shocks, Summer Tune-Up, Leaky Windshield, and than the extra non important crap :P like paint, tailgate and interior.

Did the booster before I owned a digital camera

back in 98'. Getting it ready to be shipped to the Arctic I noticed it needed a booster.

Pretty straight forward Spiked

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-16-2008, 03:24 AM
yeah its a few bolts I know, it shouldnt be that hard.

spikedzombies
03-16-2008, 08:10 PM
ok well some interesting news.

My truck has no fuel filter LOL, seriously im adding an inline filter later tomorrow.

My Brake Booster leak is causing my truck to stall out which will be fixed asap.

My timing chain might be causing my bad engine lag and backfire, so $50 and thats fixed :)

hopefully all that will fix my problems.

Sixlitre
03-17-2008, 12:23 AM
My timing chain might be causing my bad engine lag and backfire, so $50 and thats fixed :)



Whose gonna fix it for $50.00 ??????????????

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-17-2008, 12:39 AM
local mechanic said he would help me do the work myself at my place, all i gotta do is supply the parts

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=EDB&MfrPartNumber=7844&PartType=163&PTSet=A

a case of beer, $20 and maybe pizza :P and he said he would do most of the work and let me do some work if i wanted to learn.

Good deal I would say, I have a decent mechanic, my haynes books and you guys on the forums ;)

and than on top of that ill be doing the brake booster myself, so $110 should get those done.

Sixlitre
03-17-2008, 03:01 PM
local mechanic said he would help me do the work myself at my place, all i gotta do is supply the parts

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=EDB&MfrPartNumber=7844&PartType=163&PTSet=A

a case of beer, $20 and maybe pizza :P and he said he would do most of the work and let me do some work if i wanted to learn.

Good deal I would say, I have a decent mechanic, my haynes books and you guys on the forums ;)

and than on top of that ill be doing the brake booster myself, so $110 should get those done.

Good deal Spiked !

Be sure to read up on these two;

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/18193

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/18207

The second link is important to read and understand before ordering gaskets.

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-17-2008, 03:30 PM
Good deal Spiked !

Be sure to read up on these two;

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/18193

http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/4970/18207

The second link is important to read and understand before ordering gaskets.

Sixlitre

so what exactly am I going to need to get this done? i didnt think there were any gaskets on the timing? lemme know :)

I know im gonna need a torque bar, the timing set so what else?

Sixlitre
03-17-2008, 06:30 PM
My timing chain might be causing my bad engine lag and backfire, so $50 and thats fixed :)



Timing it takes all of 3 minutes once you've done it once. I thought you were talking about changing the timing chain itself Spiked ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-17-2008, 09:09 PM
Timing it takes all of 3 minutes once you've done it once. I thought you were talking about changing the timing chain itself Spiked ?

Sixlitre

yeah was thinking about it, im just getting different suggestions from different people and other people are telling me one thing and saying another its just starting to get confusing.

I know for a fact the brake booster is causing a SMALL vacuum leak when i use the brakes only. that will be replaced.

Thursday im getting the fuel pressure tested maybe ill get the vacuum tested while im at it.

Told the timing chain was still good by my mechanic that did my timing, but the other one said it might be going bad. but for $50 i might just get a new one on their anyways

Added a fuel filter to the line, only the find out from the pump back to the tank is almost all metal line, 90% of it at least. lol

maybed ill get some air blown through the lines to see if that helps at all.

Sixlitre
03-17-2008, 11:24 PM
Told the timing chain was still good by my mechanic that did my timing, but the other one said it might be going bad. but for $50 i might just get a new one on their anyways



Man if you can get it changed for $50.00

GO for it ! A 24 year old engine can probably benefit from it

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-19-2008, 03:14 PM
some interesting update news.

For sh**s and giggles i decided to check the pcv and its hoses. PCV was working correctly and for some reason doesnt seem to seal itself in the manifold all the way.. kinda loose fitting.

Anways took off the crappy hose attached to it, removed the metal line that was also attached, bought new hose.

Removed the hose from the spacer (yes it was attached to the spacer not the carb i dont know why) and attached the pcv directly to the carb.

Now she's running i would say 45% better, so my guess is a vacuum leak somewhere. Ill fix the brake booster and check its hoses and such and see if that helps any also.

Its only hesitating slightly now, not anywhere drastically as it was.

Sixlitre
03-19-2008, 05:55 PM
That's good news Spiked

did you plug up the spacer too ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-19-2008, 06:15 PM
yeah plugged the spacer, still acting like crap but it has to be that damn brake booster. It only does it on acceleration, which is usually after using the brakes lol.

SO hopefully i can get my brake booster fixed tomorrow along with some other things and than after that ill report back.

but seriously that PCV plug seems to be very loose. Its soo lose when i sprayed carb cleaner next to the supposed seal, all i see is bubbles of air.

but i used carb cleaner on almost every wire and hose in the engine bay, nothing made the car die down at all. So from what I can tell there's no bad seals or hose seals.

but tomorrows pay day..

Brake Booster $60, Rear Bumper $20, Lock and key Cylinder $11 (yeah still hasnt been done), Nerf Bars $20, Driver Side Visor $5, Fender Flares $15

all for a whopping... $130 which i think is a damn decent deal.

Sixlitre
03-19-2008, 06:23 PM
but seriously that PCV plug seems to be very loose. Its soo lose when i sprayed carb cleaner next to the supposed seal, all i see is bubbles of air.



Get a new grommet from the stealership or NAPA

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-19-2008, 07:54 PM
yeah autozone has them for $3 and ford for $4 will grab one tomorrow. Was wondering why the damn thing was soo loose, theres no grommet at all.

EDIT***

Just got done talking a friend of mine, seems I still have an exhaust leak somewhere, probably one of the manifolds so looks like ill be replacing those exhaust gaskets after all. Causing my backfire problem, as it only does it after hard acceleration and taking my foot off the gas.

He also said that the brake booster was working fine and its almost certain the egr is causing my problems. So gonna either block off the egr with a plate or gasket or just buy a new egr and see if that helps any.

Sixlitre
03-19-2008, 11:36 PM
yeah autozone has them for $3 and ford for $4 will grab one tomorrow. Was wondering why the damn thing was soo loose, theres no grommet at all.

EDIT***

Just got done talking a friend of mine, seems I still have an exhaust leak somewhere, probably one of the manifolds so looks like ill be replacing those exhaust gaskets after all. Causing my backfire problem, as it only does it after hard acceleration and taking my foot off the gas.

He also said that the brake booster was working fine and its almost certain the egr is causing my problems. So gonna either block off the egr with a plate or gasket or just buy a new egr and see if that helps any.

Sounds like an exhaust leak for sure.

Do you have manifolds or headers on there Spiked ? I found that the Mr.Gasket Ultra seal gaskets (in pic below) seal very well.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/129861/fullsize/img_0429.jpg

My shorties have been on there 5 (?) years now leak free.

I'd test and replace the EGR. A working EGR can make a difference in gas mileage.

Sixlitre

broncrog
03-20-2008, 03:07 PM
First of all, welcome. It is good to see a fellow 85 with some of the same troubles as me. Not to get off topic, but I was reading through the thread and saw this....

9) Get a junkyard '87-91 intermediate shaft

Is that a straight swap?

Good luck with the truck. You got a deal man. I paid $1400 for my 85. Listen to these guys. They are a Haynes in themselves.

P.S. Do the 3G like yesterday.

Rog

spikedzombies
03-20-2008, 04:14 PM
ok its popping on the exhaust manifold passenger side, gonna get new seals done myself.

BTW did i mention i LOVE MY MECHANIC? Seriously.. I love the dude..

He found my problem immediately..

Its no a vacuum leak, its not a EGR problem.. The Problem? UBER FREAKIN TIMING CHAIN SLACK when he tested it LOL.

So he's giving me an awesome deal.

New Timing Chain Set, New Lifters, New High Torque Cam Shaft, Intake Seals for $500 after taxes.. now is that a good deal? $350 for labor, $150 or so for parts and taxes

Sixlitre
03-20-2008, 04:55 PM
ok its popping on the exhaust manifold passenger side, gonna get new seals done myself.

BTW did i mention i LOVE MY MECHANIC? Seriously.. I love the dude..

He found my problem immediately..

Its no a vacuum leak, its not a EGR problem.. The Problem? UBER FREAKIN TIMING CHAIN SLACK when he tested it LOL.

So he's giving me an awesome deal.

New Timing Chain Set, New Lifters, New High Torque Cam Shaft, Intake Seals for $500 after taxes.. now is that a good deal? $350 for labor, $150 or so for parts and taxes

Jump all over that deal Spiked !

Sixlitre

p.s./
Order these RIGHT NOW so they'll be here in time for him;

http://www.torque-plus.com/

On a carbed motor there ain't nuthin' like em' for free mileage and torque increases.

spikedzombies
03-20-2008, 05:37 PM
i wont be able to do this till after i save up enough money, my dads spark plug and towing took up my saved money :(

Sixlitre
03-20-2008, 05:46 PM
i wont be able to do this till after i save up enough money, my dads spark plug and towing took up my saved money :(

Do you have to get emission tested Spiked ?

Sixlitre

spikedzombies
03-20-2008, 06:54 PM
yup but not till 2009, registered the vehicle as in-operable since it wasnt running right when i bought it, and i had to emission it when registering it. So in 2008 I dont have to since its an even year, but in 2009 its the last year.

nitrorustlerpro15
03-20-2008, 08:38 PM
hey spiked, glad to see she's getting the love she deserves.
btw six, thanks for the link to those intake gaskets. i need to redo mine.

keep up the good work spiked.

Sixlitre
03-20-2008, 09:55 PM
six, thanks for the link to those intake gaskets. i need to redo mine.


They really picked up the mileage on my carbed Mopars in a huge way. Off the line throttle response went from tire chirping to tire incinerating.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Spiked, I asked because adding a cam might screw your emissions test. Can you get a conditional pass even if you fail, like here ?

If you can, go for the cam anyway !

nitrorustlerpro15
03-20-2008, 10:01 PM
thank god i live in a place where no one cares about emissions.
hey six, do you have these on ur bronc.? im interested in what they would do for my '85. maybe i could keep it if she gets better milage.