Misc. Bronco Prerunner Questions [Archive] - FSB Forums

: Misc. Bronco Prerunner Questions


jgolden
01-05-2008, 01:01 AM
I'm thinking about building a Bronco for Prerunning, chasing, street cruiser and family 4x4 rig. I need something that's REALLY reliable, comfortable to drive on the street for multiple hours, comfortable offroad, seats 4 and not a maintanence nightmare. I have a few questions on how to build it "bulletproof" and cost. When I "service" or replace any part of the truck I want to do it once and do it right.

Platform - Stock 1995 Bronco with 125,000 miles

#1 - Engine. Main concern is reliablilty, smog, HP - In that order. Rebuild? Replace? Cost?
#2 - Tranny. I'd prefer to keep the stock tranny with overdrive or a different tranny with O/D. Pros? Cons? Cost? 5 speed? I know the C6 is cheaper and stronger, but not as comfortable to drive from Cabo to California.... do the pros of the C6 outweigh the Cons of everything else?
#3 - Rearend. I would replace and upgrade to a Currie or ? Cost?
#4 - Front Suspension. I'm leaning towards the Camburg stlye lenghten beams, King Coilovers, king bypass, heimed radius arms. What about replacing the stock Spindle? Who makes it? Also, I'd prefer to upgrade the hub and brake
#5 - Rear Suspension. Either leafs or 4 link. Can I still fit 2 people in the back if the shocks come through the floor? Travel with leafs = 18"?
#6 - Cage. I have this department covered (good friend is doing the fab work)
#7 - Fiberglass. I like Autofab.
#8 - If I do go "all out" and 4 link the rear, shouldn't the Bronco be strecthed about 12". It seems silly to spend all that time and money on a Prerunner with a 105" wheelbase. If I do stretch it, what will that cost???

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for your input.

Polar Cub
01-05-2008, 09:07 AM
I'm thinking about building a Bronco for Prerunning, chasing, street cruiser and family 4x4 rig. I need something that's REALLY reliable, comfortable to drive on the street for multiple hours, comfortable offroad, seats 4 and not a maintanence nightmare. I have a few questions on how to build it "bulletproof" and cost. When I "service" or replace any part of the truck I want to do it once and do it right.

Platform - Stock 1995 Bronco with 125,000 miles
.



#1 - Engine. Main concern is reliablilty, smog, HP - In that order. Rebuild? Replace? Cost? [COLOR="Red"]I would keep the stock set up witha set of headers and call it good, rebuild or replace it is your choice based on your sklls and time. If you want to build some bigger HP consider a 393 stroker, as long as you dont get crazy on the cam you can still pass smog. Cost can be anywhere from 3k-10k depending on what you do and what you farm out.
#2 - Tranny. I'd prefer to keep the stock tranny with overdrive or a different tranny with O/D. Pros? Cons? Cost? 5 speed? I know the C6 is cheaper and stronger, but not as comfortable to drive from Cabo to California.... do the pros of the C6 outweigh the Cons of everything else?
IMO for a dual purpose toy/driver the E4OD is adequate, I would have a good trans shop rebuild/freshen it and add a trans filter/oversized cooler. THe C-6 while a simpler and stouter unit will give you some benefits but unless you are building 500HP and racing I dont think it is really worth the effort to swap for your application.
#3 - Rearend. I would replace and upgrade to a Currie or ? Cost?
Alot of folks will tell you the 8.8 isnt worht a darn but so far I have yet to have a problem for my use, replace the axles with a good upgrade (strange/moser etc) and have fun. If you are dead set on going with the 9" then you will need to either fab or relocate a new VSS toner ring for your 95 not too bad to do but another item and you did state reliability is a concern. Cost again is a wide range depending on what you have done( regear, locker etc) a guesstimate would be 2k-5k 5k being a new rear end , if you regear dont forget the front.
#4 - Front Suspension. I'm leaning towards the Camburg stlye lenghten beams, King Coilovers, king bypass, heimed radius arms. What about replacing the stock Spindle? Who makes it? Also, I'd prefer to upgrade the hub and brake
Ths is a great system but remeber you will need new axles at a high cost, you can do coilovers without extening the beams, call camburg regarding the spindles that they recomend.
#5 - Rear Suspension. Either leafs or 4 link. Can I still fit 2 people in the back if the shocks come through the floor? Travel with leafs = 18"?
IMO unless you are going to stretch the Bronco a 4 link is not going to be worth it, possiblya cantilever set up may but you will still be limited by the short driveshaft (one benefit of a C-6 longer driveshaft). Look inot Autofabs 2 llink set up, it yeilds you 18" in the rear, I would consider a set of deavers vs nationals and consider using the F-150 leaves instread. If you have anything come into the cab then you will have a difficult time at best in retaining 4 seats, I have seen it once the guy had his shocks angled back instead of forwards, the rig worked well too.
#6 - Cage. I have this department covered (good friend is doing the fab work) I am jealous:thumbup
#7 - Fiberglass. I like Autofab.:thumbup
#8 - If I do go "all out" and 4 link the rear, shouldn't the Bronco be strecthed about 12". It seems silly to spend all that time and money on a Prerunner with a 105" wheelbase. If I do stretch it, what will that cost???
I already addressed this further up but the answer is yes stretching the wheelbase is really the only way to get the full benefit of the 4 link , again our travel in the rear is really limited by our driveshaft angles as afar as cost goes if you need to ask on this one you dont want to know, I am going to take a stab and say 40-50k by the time its said and done to lengthen/link the rear end and get the cosmetic stuff. I guess if yu have 100k to throw at it then I say go for it I would love to see it. Hope this helps I am sure that some others will chime in soon.:beer

jgolden
01-05-2008, 01:49 PM
Thanks for the info!!!!

Keep it coming:beer

PBR
01-05-2008, 10:24 PM
i think that you need to make a decision weather you want a $20k prerunner or a $100k prerunner. you can make what you want either way it just depends on what you want to do with it and how fast you want to go. i have owned lots of real prerunners, not just trucks with white fenders and a spare tire mount, and my fsb is the best one i have ever owned. it goes anywhere and does anything, maybe not as fast or as blinged out, but it gets the job done very well.

for the front suspension i would go camburg, autofab or spirit. if you have the $$$ to go wider go for it and go coilovers for sure.

rear suspension i would just do some deavers with a 2 link and bypass shocks coming up though the bed. if you link it you will lose some of the street drivablility and then you will need a sway bar and you are right if you link it you should probably stretch it while you are at it because of the short wheelbase.

rearend, don't skimp on this and do it right the first time. get a full floater 9" with at least 35 spline axles. it will never leave you stranded. i would go tubeworks or dirt tech.

tranny is up to you, but overall the e40d is not the strongest but you aren't running big hp so it should be fine.

if you start stretching, widening and linking you will be looking at $100k easy. chris wilson and his dad have some of the most useful prerunner/chase bronco's on the planet and they are not stretched or widened (i don't think). his dad is on this forum, see if he has some pics for you and info.

but shit, if you have the money go huge!!!

steveG
01-06-2008, 12:26 AM
i think that you need to make a decision weather you want a $20k prerunner or a $100k prerunner.

Bingo!

Blueblood
01-06-2008, 01:46 PM
check out pics of Bunderson built bronco its linked and has a bench seat in the rear. but is cost a ton of $$$$$$


nevermind i just saw you started a thread about that bronc

BajaBronco13
01-09-2008, 08:15 PM
What are you talking about Ollie, your rig is bling'd out in my opinion. It's a nice rig and well put together. You did a great job on a build that definitely inspires me and others.

Chris

yikes
01-09-2008, 08:40 PM
What are you talking about Ollie, your rig is bling'd out in my opinion. It's a nice rig and well put together. You did a great job on a build that definitely inspires me and others.

Chris

X2

BajaBronco13
01-09-2008, 08:52 PM
By the way, Chris Wilson's pop is now stretching his Bronco. I think something like 20 inches. Complete Fabrications in San Diego is handling the build.

Chris

PWMTN
01-10-2008, 07:28 PM
Jgolden
Polar cub is real close. Let me expand and give my take. Please consider my comments in addition - not instead of his comments.

Keep in mind for a dual purpose Bronco that is reliable you sure do not need even a 20k build. Your reliability will be a function of how many miles and how fast you drive on the bad Baja roads. Thea is how my Bronco started. Now it will be a dedicated pre-runner and no longer will be dual purpose.

Engine: I hope you have a 5.8/E4OD. If not then find one. I have 120k on my 5.8. It still is working fine but starting to get lazy. Rebuild yours when required. Stock size will be OK for a 20k or less build. For a 100k build then for a 5.8/408 stroker.

Tranny: If you have the E4OD you are fine with a quality rebuild when the time comes. Ours survive with 2 of the biggest blower coolers that will fit.
C6 is a killer for economy.

Rear end: The 8.8 will probably let you down. Find a 9" and put alloy parts in it. Truss it so it will survive. Lots of shops do this and no need for a name brand. My first setup was by MIT modified by Spirit Racing, and replaced by Glen at Complete Fab with a 3rd member by Jason Huges. All are in El Cajon.

Front susp: I recommend coil overs with tall buckets. Move the lower Ball joints out 2" or do a cut/turn. Works with stock fenders. Air bumps are required. Stock axles will last forever if you avoid air with the front hooked up. We all are relieving the crossover joint for margin at full droop. Use long heim Radius arms.

Rear Susp: Forget about links. Chris, Glen and I worked for weeks at my expense and the only way to get linked is to stretch. We kept the stretch at17.5" by lowering the transfer 1". Otherwise 20" would be required. I am happy as I have 3/8" driveshaft plunge. No as good as a race setup with 0" plunge but I think it will survive. You will be shocked at the cost. For planning purposes $20k just for the R suspension and cage is thrown about by others. Body work extra, as are all the other items on your list.
So live with leafs. Get bypass shocks and a trussed built rear axle. It will work fine. That was my setup for 4 years and the only thing I did was replace broken leafs. Send my your direct address and I will send you pics/details of my rear leaf setup I am trying to sell.
If you drive, say, 1000 miles per year, fast, on Baja roads, then the leafs will last for many years before they break. it took me 20k miles in 4 years to tear mine up But i rebuild teh spring each year. During that time no cage and stock front arms. The stock F arms were in bad shape after that period.

Cage: I have a minimal 12 point setup and you should do the same or more.

Fiberglass: It can be done later when the hood and fenders self destruct. My steel lasted 4 years of hard Baja road driving. Steel is gone now as it was not repairable. Autofab is best.

LOL, Paul

jgolden
01-14-2008, 04:56 AM
I wanted to thank everyone for their feedback and advice. If and when I start this project, I'm leaning towards the simple and solid build that'll get me home. Nothing too fancy, just stick with a proven design and go have fun with friends and family.

jg

WRIGHTRACING.NET
01-30-2008, 12:23 AM
By the way, Chris Wilson's pop is now stretching his Bronco. I think something like 20 inches. Complete Fabrications in San Diego is handling the build.

Chris

I was out at the shop while Glen was working on it, it almost looks like a f150 long bed wth a shell. I have not heard any new news since it left the shop. That would be a good thread for Chris to show the progress to the finished project.

Cali
01-30-2008, 02:19 AM
Fiberglass: It can be done later when the hood and fenders self destruct. My steel lasted 4 years of hard Baja road driving. Steel is gone now as it was not repairable. Autofab is best.

LOL, Paul

LOL

Man, yer entire post makes me miss east county :(

Just my 2 cents....
You can never go wrong with Autofab.
And the king bypass', in whatever flavor, are worth the money.

PWMTN
01-31-2008, 11:19 AM
I was out at the shop while Glen was working on it, it almost looks like a f150 long bed wth a shell. I have not heard any new news since it left the shop. That would be a good thread for Chris to show the progress to the finished project.
======================
Yes, the result is the look of an F150 with shell. My choices were to have a wide B pillar but that would block vision for the back seat people. A wide or windowed C pillar did not look right IMO. the result was a longer window. It is made of laminated safety glass like a windshield and has the correct curve. Pics are forth coming. My album on my HD are togrther and just waiting for upholstry & interior to be completed. Then Glen has several days of final details - Ha - like shocks springs sway bar and on & on.

Darn, I am using the F350 in the deset now. Slow but does not get stuck.

WRIGHTRACING.NET
02-11-2008, 10:22 PM
PWMTN, You must be Chris's Dad

I am not sure if we met before, I use to chase for Ramsey and Kurt in the class 8.

I can't wait to see your Bronco done. I am working on my Class 3 Bronco to race some MDR races for fun. Like you I have the F350 for chasing and prerunning right now. I love it but can't go fast in the whoops.

PWMTN
02-13-2008, 06:08 PM
Correct.
I spent some time hanging around with Kurts truck at the first Vejas race. Sorry I don't remember you.
The Bronco is finally out of the upholstry shop and at Chris' shop. The next big issue is the air shocks were built wrong and need to be done over. The shell windows are a failure and have to be done over. The upholstry guy has shorted out the interior lights so Glen is trouble shooting. 3rd member is in and sway bar is next afte another 3 month screw up. Sigh!!

muscletruck7379
07-29-2011, 05:46 AM
Front susp: I recommend coil overs with tall buckets. Move the lower Ball joints out 2" or do a cut/turn. Works with stock fenders. Air bumps are required. Stock axles will last forever if you avoid air with the front hooked up. We all are relieving the crossover joint for margin at full droop. Use long heim Radius arms.
Paul

-digging up an old thread, I am wanting to run the deaver superflex 5.5 springs on my bronco, but i am not wanting that much lift (I need a compromise of flex, ride, and a good center of gravity. I have been planning on no more than 4") but would there be any drawbacks to building new spring buckets that were taller than the original to offset some of the spring height?

WRIGHTRACING.NET
07-29-2011, 06:32 AM
-digging up an old thread, I am wanting to run the deaver superflex 5.5 springs on my bronco, but i am not wanting that much lift (I need a compromise of flex, ride, and a good center of gravity. I have been planning on no more than 4") but would there be any drawbacks to building new spring buckets that were taller than the original to offset some of the spring height?

I personally. Like squatter trucks. Big tires but small lift. I am only in the range of 3-4 inches of lift over stock but running 35x12.50 tires on my Bronco but I do have to run fiberglass fender 3inch buldge front and back. Make sure to cycle your suspension and adjust your bump stops. Best to convert to hydro bumps. Will help with bottoming out when you have less up travel.

Phoenix0783
07-29-2011, 12:42 PM
I use those springs and built some coil buckets that were taller and everything works great. The process I followed was to measure the height with the old 4" springs and then put the deavers in and measured again to find out the different and then made the new buckets that much higher. I can't remember, but I'm pretty sure the difference wasn't 1.5".

muscletruck7379
07-29-2011, 01:06 PM
good to know, I have thought about something that was adjustable too, whether it be a spacer or something that has has threads turned on it via lathe.

rewarder
07-30-2011, 02:39 PM
awesome info thanks guys. This sote is helping me tremendously

WRIGHTRACING.NET
10-15-2013, 10:33 PM
Hey, do you have any updates and pictures of your Project?