E4OD Diagnosis Thread [Archive] - FSB Forums

: E4OD Diagnosis Thread


stangmata
04-22-2008, 11:30 PM
I have seen a plethra of E4OD problem threads popping up lately. I hope that this thread will help guide those with issues through the diagnostic and maybe even the repair process. Hopefully this can save some of you some time, money, and frustration.

The E4OD serves it's purpose but it's purpose is not high mileage use in a Bronco nor offroad use. The E4OD is an electronically controlled transmission, that like many A/T's, does NOT like heat. Read on and find your specific issue.

I encourage those familiar with the E4OD to help me by providing your information, experiences, and providing and correcting information in this thread.

This is in no way the end-all be all of transmission diagnosis. This is only a means of helping you to diagnose your own transmission. If you feel that something has lead you to a dead end, post. This is in no way a replacement for a QUALITY transmission shop (read: NOT AAMCO!). I am not a mechanic nor am I a transmission specialist. I am merely someone who has dealt with my own E4OD problems and am trying to apply that in order to help others. Read on at your own risk

Step 1:

So you've encountered a problem. Let's start by using the KISS method. Check your transmission fluid. To do this ensure that the truck is in park, running, and on level ground. If the fluid is low, top is off. DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR TRANSMISSION. This will cause the fluid to froth and will be as bad as not having enough fluid.

You want to also make sure that the fluid is a nice bright red and does not have a burnt odor. If it is dark or has a strong burnt order, change your fluid, filter, and pan gasket.

Doing this is very simple. Drain the pan, drop the pan, pull old filter out, install new filter, reinstall filter, gasket, and pan. Refill with fluid. Remember, your transmission is running between 150 and 200*F. The fluid is sitting in a pan and does not quickly dissapate heat. Let your transmission cool before working on it.

"My transmission doesn't have a drain plug". You have only one option this time. Crack the pan and drain it. Ford offers a pan with a drain plug and you can search for writeups on drain plug installation.

Here is the P/N for the Ford pan w/ the drain plug F81Z 7A194 BA

Step 2:

Pull codes! Here is a writeup on how to pull codes:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Here are what the codes mean

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=45

From here you can pretty much diagnose any issue that you can imagine. The EEC-IV is good at helping us determine what is acting up in our vehicles. Most times it will come down to a bad sensor, solenoid pack, etc. We'll get back to these later.

I got one of the following codes. What do I do?

121, 122, 123, 167

You have a problem with your TPS. At this point you can either further diagnose that issue or replace the TPS.

566, 617, 618, 619, 621, 622, 626, 627, 629, 641

Your solenoid pack is affected. You either have a bad solenoid pack or a problem in the harness or connectors. A new solenoid pack can be purchased from Ford. Here is a thread with some good solenoid pack info

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61008&highlight

634, 654, 667, 668, 675,

636, 637, 638, 657

This was caused by either a faulty TOT (Transmission Over Temperature) sensor, a bad connector or harness, or the transmission was overheated.


Step 3:

The newest Bronco is, at this point, 12 years old. Connectors get dirty, the break, and wires get brittle. You may find that you are having a transmission problem and that it is just a dirty connection. So what connectors are there on the E4OD and what do they do?

The connector on the driver's side of the transmission is for the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). This tells the transmission what gear you have selected so that it may act accordingly. The connector on the passenger's side of the transmission is the shift solenoid connector.

Pull these connectors and inspect them and the wiring very thoroughly. Get some electric contact cleaner and spray down the connectors on the harness and the transmission thoroughly. After you have done this, be sure to let them dry. Reconnect them and see if your condition approves. Pull codes again and see what you are left with.

Step 4:

VSS and TPS cleaning and adjusting

The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=33

These work by reading the speed of the tone ring as the teeth pass by the sensor. Your sensor is located on top of the rear differential. It is held on by a bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the sensor. You likely will find that it is covered in metal shavings. Don't panic, this is normal. Wipe the VSS clean and reinstall. The same goes here, inspect the connector and wiring and clean. Pull codes again.

VSS Testing

http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint4_2.pdf

Another sensor that likes to play tricks on the E4OD is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30

So now you've done all your tests and your transmission is still having issues. I will break down some of the more common issues not including internal hardware failure.

Common Transmission Issues

I'm getting a hard shift from 1st to 2nd

This is called "safe mode" also referred to as limp mode. The transmission is essentially protecting itself from any further damage you may cause. The transmission is forcing itself to shift using pressure rather than the shift solenoids. Be aware that this is normal when there is a problem and you should continue with your diagnosis.

More info on limp mode

http://web.archive.org/web/20040205144343/http://www.autotransinc.com/limp.htm

I have a hard/delayed shift into reverse

This is an extremely common problem with the E4OD. The transmission requires a lot of fluid to engage reverse. This takes time and often leads to a very firm shift. Don't worry, you arn't the only one. Do a search and you will find lots of threads regarding the issue.

Here is an article on how to fix it. Be warned, it will require internal modification.

http://www.altousa.com/ib26759.htm

I don't have Reverse!

Repeat all the above. Hopefully it is an MLPS but could be an internal problem.

My transmission will not shift into 3rd or 4th but I am not getting any codes

This is a tricky one. It could be many things but if you have been offroading, mudding, or driving through deep water, I recommend you replace your alternator and see if this happens. It is possible that the rectifier circuit went and the alternator is sending a mixed AC/DC signal to the PCM confusing it.


My truck wants to stall when put in reverse

This may or may not be accompanied by irraddic idle and/or codes. If no codes are found pull the IAC (Idle Air Control) sensor and clean/replace as needed.

Here is an IAC cleaning writeup

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25878&highlight=IAC+cleaning

Another potential problem is that the transmission filter may have dropped into the pan. This is easy enough to fix. Remove pan, reinstall filter, fill with fluid.

There is a clip made that will help hold the filter in place since from the factory the filter is only held in by the o-ring. Look 3/4 of the way down this page.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

It looks like this:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/clip2.jpg

There is also a magnet from Ford that works as a filter retainer. p/n F3RZ-7E290-AC

http://web.archive.org/web/20010727174755/http://www.spxfiltran.com/Bulletins/toledo/techbulletin.asp?num=037

My truck starts off in 4th gear

This can be accompanied by a draining dead battery and a self diagnosis not initiating. This can be caused by the EEC relay.

More info here:

http://web.archive.org/web/20040216225246/http://atcdg.com/TechBulletins/bull_125.htm

When I come to a stop my transmission feels like it goes into Neutral

This is likely an issue with your MLPS.

My trucks slips into neutral and then slams into gear whenever it wants

MLPS

My Speedo needle is bouncing

Either an issue with the VSS or the tone ring located in the rear diff. Inspect and replace as necessary.

MLPS INFO

After 94 the MLPS was redisigned with a different connector to keep out water. I recommend buying a new MLPS from Ford. It will require you to repin the harness connector.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1256948&postcount=37

MLPS Testing

http://www.transonline.com/transDigest/magazines/1998-10%2FShift%20Pointers/index.html

MLPS Sensor Values

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/485085/thumbnail/sensorvalues.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/485085_1)

The Ultimate TPS Thread

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53840&highlight=TPS

When I come to a stop my truck lurches. Stalls at lights

Could be an issue with the TCC. Check the and clean the wiring on the solenoid pack connector. Test the MLPS.

Shift Solenoid Testing

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47918&highlight

My transmission is leaking fluid out the front

One of three conditions has likely happened.

1. The transmission too much fluid and was venting through the front pump

2. The transmission overheated and was venting fluid through the front pump

3. The front pump seal is bad.

Replacing the front pump seal is not involved once the transmission is out. Simply remove the old seal and install the new one. Purchase the seal from Ford. A transmission removal and install thread will be posted further down.

External trans filter, cooler, and thermostat install

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74305

E4OD Removal and Installation

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48997

Other Usefull Links

http://community.webshots.com/album/226936082LMvPPu

Random transmission parts

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=OPTI&Category_Code=E4OD

Hard to find transmission parts

http://www.transpartsonline.com/tpfile/tpcat.asp?TransPartsOnline=E4OD&TransPartsType=E4OD

http://www.bulkpart.com/


This thread will be updated regularly as I progress and people help build the content. I will also re-arrange it for easy of reading. For now, please enjoy and add your input.

stan the man
04-23-2008, 01:44 AM
Fantastic work Ian!

I have some stuff to add...

If your truck stalls when you put it in reverse, there is a good chance that your transmission filter dropped. Remove pan, find filter at bottom of pan, install NEW filter, and fill with new ATF.

One more thing, My truck would sometimes stay in Neutral when I shifted from Reverse to Drive. This went away when I fixed my dropped filter issue.


(please add that into the original post, because I feel like that is a common problem for owners with E4OD's)

Shane C.
04-23-2008, 12:06 PM
If your truck stalls when you put it in reverse, there is a good chance that your transmission filter dropped. Remove pan, find filter at bottom of pan, install NEW filter, and fill with new ATF.(please add that into the original post, because I feel like that is a common problem for owners with E4OD's)

In addition you can install a filter clip that keeps that from happening. I recommend anyone who has their pan off, spend the 15 bucks (shipped) and just install this as a preventative. Here is a site that has them along with a lot of other E4OD stuff. The clip is about 3/4 to the bottom of the page -

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

Here is a great site for some of the "hard to find" stuff like seperator plate gaskets and such...

http://www.transpartsonline.com/tpfile/tpcat.asp?TransPartsOnline=E4OD&TransPartsType=E4OD

Here is another one that has some of the obscure parts along with the Automatic Transmission Service Guide (ATSG), transmission lube (gel) and other stuff like that:

http://www.bulkpart.com/

Finally, this is the place I found with the best price on a NEW solenoid pack:

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=OPTI&Category_Code=E4OD

Word of "warning" I suppose... most of these sites suck. Hard to use and you dont get much info when ordering or when your order ships. I contacted people at all of them and all but the Mako site were very nice and offered great information.... it took me a long time to find these sites and info. I hope they come in handy for some people.

stumpjumper
04-24-2008, 12:23 AM
I bought a used pump, planetary, and new thrust washer pack from Jerry @
http://www.cheaptransmissionparts.com/
super helpful guy.

My $.02 is always clean the valve body throughly if all attempts at MLPS and solenoid pack wiring don't fix your problem. You can either use 20 cans of brake parts cleaner or take it to a machine shop with a parts washer. This can eliminate several problems where heavy varnish is blocking fluid flow. This solved the harsh reverse (double engagement problem) and subsequent stall for me. Just make sure to keep up with and reinstall all check balls.

M.L.S.C.
04-24-2008, 03:50 AM
Question - does anyone know why the .500 modulator valve by Sonnax ain't recommended for diesels?
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SNX-96948-05K&Category_Code=E4ODHP

Also, has anyone used this Transgo kit? Does it come with a big modulator valve like that Sonnax one, and does it have a bigger boost valve as well?
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=TRG-E4OD-HD2&Category_Code=E4ODSK

Optika1 illushun
05-26-2008, 02:09 AM
Question - does anyone know why the .500 modulator valve by Sonnax ain't recommended for diesels?
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=SNX-96948-05K&Category_Code=E4ODHP

Also, has anyone used this Transgo kit? Does it come with a big modulator valve like that Sonnax one, and does it have a bigger boost valve as well?
http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=OPTI&Product_Code=TRG-E4OD-HD2&Category_Code=E4ODSK


cant say for sure bout the modulator valve but im running it and the HD-2 shift kit in my 93 and its wonderful.

Stang, what about shuttering in overdrive? possible torque converter clutch failure (from what i learned and was told its almost 100%).

also a rubber pan gasket is key, re-usable. i think napa has a kit with the rubber pan gasket. and what about prevention? external filter? just some things to add. good thread!

BroncoJoe19
06-25-2008, 07:10 AM
Great Write up Ian!

I just wanted to comment that the location of the VSS for the early E4ODs '90 - '92 is on the driver's side at the rear of the transfer case.

Also Perhaps a link to the thread about programming the PSOM may be useful.
Again... great thread, thanks for putting the effort into it.

OwlStu
06-29-2008, 10:06 PM
Step 1:
...
DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR TRANSMISSION. This will cause the fluid to froth and will be as bad as not having enough fluid.
..
This thread will be updated regularly as I progress and people help build the content. I will also re-arrange it for easy of reading. For now, please enjoy and add your input.

Here is my input.

An overfilled E4OD transmission can also cause fluid to seep up through the solenoid connector (passenger side rear of transmission behind a small heat shield). This can cause poor electrical contact resulting in erratic, severely harsh, and none shifting, etc.

You may think your solenoid pack has mind of its own.

Please don't ask how I know. :doh0715:

Likewise parking on steep uphill or righthand slope could cause fluid to seep up into the solenoid connector as well.

If the above actually turns out to be true, then it would be no wonder there are so many E4OD's with shifting issues that shops say need rebuilt, then only to have the same problem a year or so down the road. That connector seems to be sealed pretty well from the outside but not so well from the inside.

Time will tell if this turns out to be the actual cause of my problem. At the time is seems to be the most probable.



Step 3:
...
The connector on the passenger's side of the transmission is the shift solenoid connector.
...
Get some electric contact cleaner and spray down the connectors on the harness and the transmission thoroughly.

I would advise not to spray anything into the solenoid connector (the male end that is in the trannie) because anything you put in there can and likely willl end up in the trannie.

I used half a dozen Q-Tips, first few to soak up the fluid that was in there and then a few more squirted with some brake cleaner (because that is what I had handy) to clean it up.

The female connector attached to the wire harnes, squirt away.

stangmata
06-30-2008, 01:17 PM
The only way I could see fluid coming up through the solenoid connector is if the plastic was warped and/or the seal was bad. It CERTAINLY shouldn't happen if just parked on a hill.

OwlStu
06-30-2008, 01:44 PM
The only way I could see fluid coming up through the solenoid connector is if the plastic was warped and/or the seal was bad. It CERTAINLY shouldn't happen if just parked on a hill.

Well I have one of the last Broncos ever manufactured by Ford (built in May '96) so it should have the latest of factory trannie upgrades, and I can tell you for a fact there was trannie fluid inside the connector. Don't think it would ooz out of the connector though, unless under pressure, due to the rubber seal in the female half of the connector.

I would not expect an oil tight seal between the hard plastic and metal pins of an electrical connector unless specifically design to be so. Not likely to be so in this case. This connector looks like it would be the sort that the hard plastic is molded separately first and the pins added later. This would not typically produce an oil tight seal.

The female end appears to have a rubber seal though, like is typical of many of the other sealed automotive connectors. So seal pretty good from outside but not from the inside.

Not saying it could not be due to deterioration, but I don't think it is, and can not inspect it sufficiently to tell for sure without removing the solenoid pack from trannie. Not worth that at this point. I don't think the male half of the connector was designed to be an oil tight seal, but if not, it certainly should have been.

stangmata
06-30-2008, 03:52 PM
I don't think there is any tranny fluid sitting under the plastic plug where it connects to the solenoid pack, so I don't really see how fluid could come up through the pins.

OwlStu
06-30-2008, 04:29 PM
I don't think there is any tranny fluid sitting under the plastic plug where it connects to the solenoid pack, so I don't really see how fluid could come up through the pins.

All I can tell you is that for a fact it absolutely does. And if mine does then very good chance others do also. Could potentially explain a lot of the trannie shifting issues people seem to have. And also why some rebuilds seem to go bad prematurely.

You could dump a couple extra quarts in, put the front-end up about foot or more on jack stands and let it sit for a few days and see if the connector gets wet with ATF inside.

Another test method might be to simply disconnect the connector and fill the male end with ATF and see if it seeps down into the trannie over a few days.

stan the man
07-25-2008, 08:38 PM
Alright guys lets see if we can add this to the diagnostic thread and also answer my question. I just installed my 4.56 gears and now I get hard shifts coming out of first. Limp Mode you might say, but the weird thing is my speedometer works and I have 3rd gear (I havent gone fast enough to get into OD, so I dont know whats going on). Any help as to why this is? Im thinking that if I "P" my PSOM that will fix it, because the truck thinks its going slower than it really is, thus trying to rev up higher. That makes sense to me, but I'm probably wrong.

So here it is in cliffnotes:
-New 4.56 gears
-Truck likes to rev up to 1500 RPM in first
-Hard shift from first to second
-It didnt do this with the stock gears.
-VSS is plugged in and clean (for now)

WasACop3436
01-29-2009, 08:39 PM
I am still on the search for a ford rotunda T-89-T kit so I can attempt to rebuild the 94 E4OD I have sitting in my garage.
Till then, those with REALLY deep pockets can look HERE (http://www.etoolcart.com/forde40d.aspx) for speciality rebuild tools.

RBron
04-07-2009, 10:27 PM
Hi Does anyone know of a Converter Clutch Bypass trick ............i have a E4OD;in a 90'
or is there such a thing......i have a converter shutter

thePUNISHER
04-10-2009, 03:03 PM
thnx i'll give it try


pin 53. purple wire with yellow tracer. you can hook a toggle in-line to complete the circuit when you want it to lock.

777Bigmac777
05-08-2010, 08:18 PM
I have a problem that is really confusing me. Ok i took my truck out, literally just down a dirt road, and i little lose gravel, coming back out i stopped to let someone pass me. When i went to go again, I had the press the gas alot. It had no reverse. It kinda felt like it was in two gears at one, for example, you go to reverse press the pedal and it want to go forward for a second. Now I had it towed to the shop at my work, since it was stuck in the driveway b/c i didn't know that it wouldn't go in reverse. Now that it is at the shop, it is working just fine, cold and warmed up.

Anyone have any ideas?

davelength
05-24-2010, 07:25 PM
Can someone tell me what is happening in the E4OD when it feels like it does a small shift midway through the powerband. Not a gear change, but something in between gears. Is this the torque converter locking up? Something within the valve body? I am trying to locate an annoying noise which often starts when the transmission does one of these half-shifts.

Thanks!
Dave

stangmata
05-25-2010, 12:35 PM
TC locking up.

davelength
05-25-2010, 07:02 PM
TC locking up.

Awesome, thank you.

rebelranger
07-06-2010, 11:29 AM
Hey all a little update. The magnet that Ford made to stop the filter from falling down has been superseded.

Old Part number: f3rz-7e290-ac

New Part number: YS7Z7E290AA

Nitehawk770
07-06-2010, 08:54 PM
okay well I got a good one. 95 351W, E4OD 107K miles. Shifts fine, then once it gets up to running temperature, it starts to slam thru all gears. If I shut the truck off at a light, and restart it quick, problem goes away for a few minutes. Only thing I can think of is the tranny's getting hot, and the solenoid is freaking out. It's pissing me off, cause I love this truck and want to fix the problem. Also, I broke a wire to the pre-cat O2 sensor, and the hard shift issues are more frequent. HELP!

Doomsmith
08-30-2010, 05:40 PM
Lately I get high rpm's but it takes a while to pick up speed. I'm hardly stepping on the gas and the rpm's shoot past 3000 before I even hit 30 mph. When I coast for a bit and feel a drop I step on the gas and it somewhat drops to just above 2000 rpm's if I'm easing on the gas pedal. Does that mean my tranny's gonna go on me soon?





D2k10!

Shane C.
08-30-2010, 07:18 PM
Lately I get high rpm's but it takes a while to pick up speed. I'm hardly stepping on the gas and the rpm's shoot past 3000 before I even hit 30 mph. When I coast for a bit and feel a drop I step on the gas and it somewhat drops to just above 2000 rpm's if I'm easing on the gas pedal. Does that mean my tranny's gonna go on me soon?





D2k10!

Generally, this is caused by clutches slipping and means its time to start saving, quickly, and as much as you can, to get your trans rebuilt or replaced.

You can try to pull codes and see if anything comes up, but IME, this is caused by physically worn parts that are about to fail. As a last ditch effort to try and extend the transmissions life, you can try to add some Lucas Transmission Fix and see if that helps, keeping in mind that it may help a little bit for a little time.

SoupCan™
09-03-2010, 10:45 AM
mmmm ok, i have a 94 f350, e40d, 7.5l..i just purchased it sat for a year or so,i had to go throu the brakes and front end,while i did that i changed trans filter and fluid..reverse works fine,i can take off from first or 2nd and upshift manualy it works great,but it acts slippy trying to take off in drive...

Rich

Doomsmith
09-03-2010, 01:48 PM
I had another question regarding transmissions. I was thinking about alternative vehicles I can pull from just in case I'm at a pull it yourself yard and I was thinking about the F Series from 97 to 01 Excursions and Expeditions from that same year bracket. Any of those would bolt up to my bronco's engine or am I pretty much stuck within the F Series / Bronco years 92 to 96? Are any of those tranny parts even useable ?




D2k10!

NM95Bronco
09-17-2010, 03:02 PM
stangmata I cannot thank you enough for this write up. I have random problems with my bronco, it runs fine for a few days then I have a problem with the overdrive light on the shifter flashing and it not wanting to go into second or third gear unless I am at 35 mph or 2500 rpm.. the sudden push (not jolt) of the truck going into gear scares me. expensive rebuild on a e4od around here. Maybe some guys from my chapter can help with it but I dont know.

I am going to garage the bronco, run through wiring in the morning when it is bright and cool. Payday I will replace the filter, fluid, and I will get a cooler asap.....any more ideas would be appreciated.

sublx8ed
09-21-2010, 09:08 PM
Just bought a 1996 Ford Bronco XLT 4wd, 5.0 liter and immediately had a tranny problem. Drove it for about 15 miles or so, then had a flashing OD light and it began dumping trans fluid. Mechanic cleaned it up, put fluid in and drove 15 miles or so with it and nothing, no leaks. Put in a trans cooler anyway just in case.
Just picked it up, drove it about 15-20 miles most of it around 30-40 mph. Pulled out on highway and within 2-3 miles it began doing it again! 3 quarts of fluid later I limped it home.
It seems to shift well and I trust the mechanic. Code only indicated overheated trans. Any ideas? Next is the torque converter unless you guys have a fix.
Thanks!

pfun41
09-21-2010, 10:03 PM
Just bought a 1996 Ford Bronco XLT 4wd, 5.0 liter and immediately had a tranny problem. Drove it for about 15 miles or so, then had a flashing OD light and it began dumping trans fluid. Mechanic cleaned it up, put fluid in and drove 15 miles or so with it and nothing, no leaks. Put in a trans cooler anyway just in case.
Just picked it up, drove it about 15-20 miles most of it around 30-40 mph. Pulled out on highway and within 2-3 miles it began doing it again! 3 quarts of fluid later I limped it home.
It seems to shift well and I trust the mechanic. Code only indicated overheated trans. Any ideas? Next is the torque converter unless you guys have a fix.
Thanks!

maybe the internal filters clogged or it came off. somethings not coolingright though. when you get on the hiighway the tranny has to pump harder which heats up the fluid which is why this is happening.

birdman27
10-04-2010, 09:40 AM
Ok, my tranny was just rebuilt about 2yrs ago but only have put 10,000kms on it.
Shifts fine most of the time. Fluid looks new, and at normal running level.
But for some reason it is slipping or going into nutral once in a while (just for a second or i play with the throtle), when it kicked into neutral on the hwy way the other day i checked the fluid and it was way high, but then 10min later it was normal again???

what would case the fluid to go up and slip once in a while???

from what i have read sounds like the MLPS but would that do anything to the fluid level??

birdman27
10-04-2010, 09:58 AM
Ok, my tranny was just rebuilt about 2yrs ago but only have put 10,000kms on it.
Shifts fine most of the time. Fluid looks new, and at normal running level.
But for some reason it is slipping or going into nutral once in a while (just for a second or i play with the throtle), when it kicked into neutral on the hwy way the other day i checked the fluid and it was way high, but then 10min later it was normal again???

what would case the fluid to go up and slip once in a while???

from what i have read sounds like the MLPS but would that do anything to the fluid level??

Oh and i forgot, i have a trans temp gauge and its running normal, not hot at all

birdman27
10-05-2010, 03:04 PM
Any ideas ^^^^

WilliamWallaceGS
10-22-2010, 10:19 PM
My transmission will not shift into 3rd or 4th but I am not getting any codes

This is a tricky one. It could be many things but if you have been offroading, mudding, or driving through deep water, I recommend you replace your alternator and see if this happens. It is possible that the rectifier circuit went and the alternator is sending a mixed AC/DC signal to the PCM confusing it.

The same thing happened to me after running through some pretty deep water/mud. I disconnected/dried/cleaned all my transmission electrical connections to no avail. Found this thread, did some troubleshooting, and found out my alternator was jacked. I replaced my alternator and it solved my problems. Pretty crazy, but it fixed my problem. Thank God for this site, or else I would have ended up losing my mind trying to figure this out.

hipockets2842
10-25-2010, 08:00 PM
e4od, what a pos! mine shifts fine but when in gear I feel jerking and when hitting passing gear tranny downshifts, engine speeds up, and truck stays same speed help I'm thinking about gasp, buying chevrolet

oght6
01-04-2011, 08:58 PM
So I was troubleshooting mine earlier today with the steps above. This is a 91 EB with a 351W and 137K miles. The tranny seems to be stuck in second gear and does not shift up or down, also i have not see any slippage ether.
the previous owner has installed a new TQ converter, and a starter. The fluid is full and actually overfull by about 1/2 qt or so, however there is a pretty serious leak out of the part that connects the tranny to the transfer case.
These are the codes that came up:
KOEN:
56/637---TOT Circuit open.
91/621---SS1 Circuit failure
92/622---SS2 Circuit Failure
93/626---CCS Curcuit Failure
94/627---CCC Solenoid Failure
99/624---EPC Circuit Failure

KOER
26/636---TOT Sensor Voltage out of self-test range.

So what I am trying to figure out is if this tranny is savable or not. Cant really afford a new one. I am thinking it might be a bad solenoid, or some other issue like that. What I do know though is that towards the end of the day when we had it up on a lift we noticed that the solenoid was not plugged in all the way. So we plugged it in and it seems to be doing better, but not cured yet. Also didnt have time to pull new codes, will do that tomorrow.
So the plan so far is to double check the codes and trouble shoot those faults further. Can you guys think of anything else that I should check that would narrow the search down for me?
Thanks a lot.

oght6
01-05-2011, 03:54 PM
So scanned it again this time, (after pluging the pig tail all the way in) lol no codes came up for the tranny at all, yet it still acts weird like its stuck in second gear.

andysjunkymusic
03-09-2011, 12:27 AM
Okay, here's my issue.

While driving I shift up and down through all gears but, occasionally when I left of the gas it feels like I get a more noticeable shift down to 1st and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop I'll get a more noticeable shift into 2nd. I say "more noticeable" because there not really hard. The truck doesn't jerk or jolt.

I've hooked up a code scanner and got nothing...no "bad codes". Also checked my fluid and it's nice and red and hitting right in the hashed zone on the dip stick.

Any ideas?

B-man
04-26-2011, 11:59 AM
Hope someone reads this.

Do any of you happen to have a pic of your solenoid pack connector wiring handy? I have a different color wiring than what is on any schematic I have seen. Not all of the wires, but, for sure one. I can't remember which one it was and Dumbass(points to self) forgot to upload the pics I have of my connetor.

I looked at the ford haynes (I know, I know GET A FRIGGIN CHILTON'S) manual and the wire is a different color on there. I know I don't have a lot of info, I will have more when I get home. This just popped into my head here at work.

Thanks for any help.:thumbup

Oh, and the wiring ( I don't think it is different?) is for a 95 solenoid pack I am installing.

stangmata
04-26-2011, 10:15 PM
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/237400/fullsize/solenoid-pins.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/237401/fullsize/solenoid-cycles.jpg

bkne40d
07-10-2011, 11:41 AM
You may have codes even if the CEL isn't on. Go through and pull codes and report back.

I hate to say it though...if the trans is making noises, it's likely mechanical. Pull codes, then drop the pan and look for trans bits.

Ok. Sorry for the delay. I've been so busy lately. It's now fixed. Read further...

I dropped the tranny pan. The filter was still installed correctly. And nothing abnormal about metal stuck to the magnet.

Anyway, I tried to pull the codes by blinking lights, but got frustrated. So I bought a $35 code reader from O'Reillys.

Results:

KOEO: 111--all normal
CM: 452--VSS problem or circuit problem from VSS to PCM to Tranny
KOER: 111--all normal

I was perplexed. I changed out the VSS with the MLPS at the same time. Could the new VSS be defective? I bought both at Autozone since they had better prices than the dealer.

Hoping the Autozone part was defective, I bought a Motorcraft VSS from the dealer at almost 2.5 times the price ($40). I swaped it out and test drove the van (actually a E350 based motorhome) for almost 300 miles. Everything worked, shifted perfectly, including the cruise control. The ABS light still came on, but it's a different issue.

So the problem was the VSS. I was going down the wrong path with looking at everything else due to the fact of beliving that a new Autozone VSS was installed and the VSS will be a non-issue in further diagnosis. It registered correct MPH on the gauge, so I assumed it to be working correctly.

Anyway, the autozone VSS looks almost identical to the ford VSS. They are both now made of plastic. You have to look very closely to see minor differences. However, the magnet inside does not budge in the ford part, no rattling noise at all. The Autozone part rattles when shaken, ie. the magnet has room to move inside the plastic housing.

It's was a big lesson for me. Wrong readings from the VSS can cause so much E4OD problems...erratic shifting, late shifting, hard shifting, feeling like it was in neutral, as well as engine cutting off at stop lights---Even if it registers correct readings on your speedometer!

Also, pay a little more and buy the dealer part when it comes to critical sensors. It'll save a lot of headaches down the road.

Kind of funny looking back at the Autozone VSS purchase. I asked the guy how much warranty do I have on the VSS. He said no returns at all. The MLPS has 2 yr warranty, but absolutely no returns on the VSS. My dumb A&& should have figured it out at that instant, but I was too slow to realize the reason why.

They sell junk VSS!!!!

RDGBLK
10-16-2011, 10:47 AM
Just wanted to say thanks to this thread.

Out of the blue I started having very hard 1-2 shifts and somewhat hard 2-3 shifts. My CEL came on.

Followed the diagnosis.

Fluid was fine.

Pulled codes: 23, 121, 123

Checked TPS - one of the connecting wires from the plug to the sensor had frayed off.

Replaced TPS. Shifts great! Not sure if it's related but the shift into reverse even feels less pronounced.

Thanks!

spyder8c
12-09-2011, 05:30 PM
just found this thread and i'm having trouble with my trans, but couldnt match up a problem with anything posted here.

i have a 95 bronco 302 and i've been having some trouble when at cruising speed through town (specifically 37-40mph) it seems like the trans cant choose a gear at this certain speed, so it gears up and down constantly if i hold the rpm's at this specific speed.

when outside this specific speed, the tranny shifts very smooth and pulls strong. i checked the fluid and its clean looking and filled according to dipstick.

i've learned how to pull codes from this thread so this is what i'll do next and hopefully i can diagnose the problem.

just wondering if anyone has had this problem with their E40D.

Hartmans-bronco
12-20-2011, 12:11 PM
My 95 bronco has a e40d tranny it seems to be shifting to high gear when I take off cause it to act like it wants to stall out. But once it's up to running speed 40 mph it runs fine. Also if I column shift it runs fine. Just in drive it jumps from 1st to 4th gear when I take off. Any clue on what I can do to fix this problem?? Thanks

miesk5
12-20-2011, 04:38 PM
yo spyder & Hartmans-bronco,

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)s by my pal, BroncoJoe19 (http://broncozone.com/topic/14269-code-reader/page__pid__74587__mode__threaded)
The engine temperature must be greater than 50° F for the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Self-Test and greater than 180° F for the Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test.
Run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse. Then turn off all accessories/lights, etc.

Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or in Neutral for a Manual & release clutch.

Do Key On Engine Off (KOEO) portion first.

Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function.

And Post em here according to:
KOEO
&
KOER

surfjay
01-08-2012, 10:19 AM
Very helpful thread.. I am preparing to drop my e4od out of my truck. Keep in mind i am an amateur at this sort of thing so ive been fairly nervous to start the process. Ive done a manual trans out of a toyota 4 runner but it seems it was much easier than this is gonna be. I dont have too many tools just the basics. Before i start i would like an idea of what is wrong first. I was wheelin on the beach for about 20 mins fairly hard. I got down to the inlet i was going to and noticed trans fluid leaking out of that little cap that sits on the bottom of the bell housing. Im not positive but i am pretty sure the cap is just there to see into the bell housing. I dont think fluid is supposed to be i the bell housing. So i am thinking that A seal or something went bad in there. When i saw the leak i got off the beach as fast as i could. I managed to get off of the beach noticing the trans was slipping more and more until it stopped shifting or doing anything at all. That im pretty sure is because all the fluid leaked out. Is there just a seal or gasket i need to change? or is this something more serious? Thanks for your help.

stangmata
01-08-2012, 10:31 AM
Likely the front pump seal.

mare2290
01-18-2012, 04:13 PM
Ok i have a e40d tranny in a 97 ford expedition that stopped pulling while i was driving. Couldn't get it to go into park even when holding the brake in. Had it towed home. replaced tranny filter started up and drove but acted like it didn't want to pull itself and rpms went up. replaced tranny and torque converter. Also put in new shift cable as old one was bad. Started it up will not go into reverse or drive and will not go back into park even when brake is pushed in. Only goes back into park after engine is shut off and brake is pushed in. Got any ideas as to what to do next?

1989bronco
01-25-2012, 05:46 PM
Ok I have a 1990 F250 5.8 E4OD trans that has 1st and 2nd only but if I get up to 55 and put it in OD it shifts and down the road I go. I have tried to pull codes with no luck. The fluid is in great shape not burnt or diss colored.
I have talked to a trany guy and he is thinking solenoid pack. What do you guys think.

bigbronco788
01-27-2012, 10:22 PM
Ok, I have recently had a problem with my transmission, everything was fine till one day I took it on it's first long trip since owning it for about 5 months. Everything was fine, drove about 20 miles or so and stopped for a drink, started back up and put it in reverse, it made a loud clunk and you could really feel it go into gear, drove it another mile to the place we were going and it shifted hard into the gears. Did it all the way back home......Call a couple local shops and they said it sounds like it's in limp mode, which I read hear and agree. I used my $27 code reader and pulled a 628 KOEO test, it says excessive torque converter slippage, so am I correct that I just need to replace the torque converter??? And will the computer take it out of limp mode, or do I need to clear the codes/unhook the battery (will do anyway while changeing the torqu converter) Help please!

lugobean
02-07-2012, 06:17 PM
Ok so what I'm taking from this thread is my trans is about to be junk... 94 bronco with a 351w and E40d that won't shift into 4th. The trans was a little low on fluid about 3 weeks ago so I put in a quart and it was good. But this week came around and now I'm doing 3 grand to go 60 on the freeway. Last week with the added fluid it would stay around 1500 at 65. I'm gonna try the TPS first because the fluid is nice and red and filled to perfection. What is going on?! I wanna pull a 5 speed out of an f250 anyway but I need this to hold together till I can afford the box, clutch, pedal assembly, driveshaft, and computer. Any tips other than rebuilding it and some additives?

shogigei
02-08-2012, 09:51 AM
I have just purchased a 1996 F250 with 460 engin with a E4OD transmission. During the test drive everything worked fine. It has since from time to time decided to start slipping in and out of gear. It will do this for a little while then it will quit and go back to working fine. The check engine light will come on then go off. Right now it is off and the truck is working great. Could this be a sensor issue or signs of a catostrophic failure on the horizon?

floridaquacker
03-19-2012, 12:33 PM
mmmm ok, i have a 94 f350, e40d, 7.5l..i just purchased it sat for a year or so,i had to go throu the brakes and front end,while i did that i changed trans filter and fluid..reverse works fine,i can take off from first or 2nd and upshift manualy it works great,but it acts slippy trying to take off in drive...

Rich

Having the exact same problem in my 94 bronco. Anyone ever get bck to u on this?

COLD45
05-22-2012, 07:29 PM
:chili::twotu::chili::chili::rockonHad the same problem on my 94 Bronco. Replaced multiple sensors, service work, hundreds of dollars. Had replaced VSS (Vehicle speed Sensor), with a much cheaper Auto Zone part. Had the same symptoms a week later. Saw on this thread same thing With another guy, I went to Ford dealer, purchased a ford VSS. So far, seems to be the fix. Good luck!

Update! yep, all the shifting problems was the VSS! Replaced the original bad one, with a new Auto Zone bad one! After years of hassle, it's driving and shifting out like it drove off the show room floor! Outstanding!

COLD45
06-01-2012, 07:19 PM
Well,
I spoke too soon, after one week of wonderful shifting, the neutral and slamming into gears came back! Then stopped again. All in the same day. Checking connectors and wiring, and so far, all look good. Solenoid connector on passenger side of transmission was not quite all the way down in the lock position, and had a little trans fluid in it. cleaned thourougly with elec. cleaner, dried, coated with electrostatic grease, re-plugged making sure it was all the way in. Looks great, driving smooth. Praying this is it, but been going on for years now, so we'll see. Any ideas? working with Al Miesk, perhaps we can figure it out!:banghead

IJCOBRA
09-03-2012, 05:26 PM
My transmission is very sluggish when I mash the accelerator. It does not want to downshift properly, *especially going up hill*. Driving normal it is fine, but when I mash the throttle I expect a downshift and some power. Sometimes on a level road it will downshift properly and feel good. Not much power trying to go up a big hill at 2000 RPM in 4th or 3rd. Any ideas? I need to take this truck from Seattle to Minneapolis in 6 months pulling a trailer so I'll be going over a bunch of mountains.

'96 Bronco, 351W, 35" tires, 4.56 gears, Edelbrock manifold,K&N intake, JBA headers.

Thanks guys!

garymunson
11-14-2012, 06:52 AM
My experience with my Bronco was apparent slipping and shuddering when I accelerated hard. I'd just bought it from an elderly guy who probably never drove it hard enough to make it slip. Doing the 20 quart flush through the cooler line and adding a tube of Mr Tranny friction modifier made it shift like new with no slippage. BTW, the fluid I drained out did not look or smell bad. I've been told that Mercon fluid will wear out without looking bad. Ford transmissions will not operate properly with degraded fluid. Didn't even bother to replace the filter. Ford does not recommend replacing it and I've never seen one that I've pulled out that looked particularly dirty.

95bronco12
11-16-2012, 03:06 PM
Alright guys.

Driving about 45 mph today when truck wanted to go into overdrive but instead of doing that her rpms jumped and it felt like it was no longer in gear. I pulled over looked around and no fluid leaking or anything. Took off trying to make it do this again and it wont she shifts normal and goes into o.d normal again any thoughts?

1993_F150
06-15-2013, 10:30 PM
Hello I have a 1993 f150 4.9 with a E40D transmission and I got it from a guy who had took the truck mudding and when I first got it the truck drive fine the first time driven but now if you put it in drive and try to drive the truck just surges and won't change gears but you can change the gears manually and I just changed the filter and fluid there wasn't anything in the pan if there is anyone who can help I will be very greatful thank you

4GIRLS
06-15-2013, 11:53 PM
both of you guys, MLPS sensor, or the shifter cable are 2 possible scenarios. My shifting was erratic and hard, especially at lower rpms. After replacing that sensor, its silky smooth now. But surging, that sounds like a tranny issue. There is definitely threads about transmissions. I have not yet read them since I am lucky and haven't needed to.

strictlystangs2
07-26-2013, 08:30 PM
Heres a problem I had and the solution for it that I haven't seen here. When my transmission was cold I had to rev the engine 5-10 times for he truck to move. Then I could drive and it would slip in and out of gear. This would happen in all gears. Once it warmed up the problem would just about go away. I read all of this and thought maybe it was the mpls, that didn't fix it. The transmission shop said my clutches were shot and I needed a rebuild. Not wanting to spend 2k I dropped the pan to see if I would find anything out. Well the filter was floating in the pan. Put on a new filter and new fluid and it shifts like new now. Hopefully this helps somebody!

jowens1126
07-27-2013, 02:01 PM
Any ideas on this?

Between 50 and 65mph for sure, and sometimes at lower speeds the Converter will lock and unlock, lock and unlock. It seems worse going up a hill, but it also does it on a dead flat road. There are no Codes, Fluid is perfect. No shifting problems at the moment, but sometimes it will shift pretty hard.

Any Ideas on the converter situation?

NidStyles
11-22-2013, 08:14 AM
I have this annoying whine noise from my transmission, it might be the TC, but not sure. Is there any way to diagnose this noise issue? I would rather not have this thing grenade on me while I'm rebuilding it's replacement.


Any ideas on this?

Between 50 and 65mph for sure, and sometimes at lower speeds the Converter will lock and unlock, lock and unlock. It seems worse going up a hill, but it also does it on a dead flat road. There are no Codes, Fluid is perfect. No shifting problems at the moment, but sometimes it will shift pretty hard.

Any Ideas on the converter situation?

I'm not sure, because my experience is limited with the E4OD so far, but doesn't the computer control the lockup?

PJCHANNING
12-19-2013, 11:11 PM
Yo, Read for codes today, got KOEO 11,32 KOER 10,12,21,13,25. I did decode all of these and it all seems to only confuse me further.:banghead I tried to do this for the first time on my 1/2 hour lunch break today. MAP 157 reading. ETC 3.35 Reading at start of test. I'm pretty sure I bumbled the part where you have to snap the throttle:doh0715: (why did I do it from inside, ugh) I'm about to break bread on a good used tranny from a vendor buddy of mine. I'll also get a cooler. Any help from anybody would be great. All the trans shops I do business with are too busy to take on a "buddy" repair. I've still got a reverse that feels just like neutral, but if you give it throttle it'll lurch forward and stall, and N feels almost exactly like 4 Lo manual first gear. Manual gears 1 & 2 operate nominally and D shifts smoothly but feels like OD doesn't engage. Again, any help. Please.:whiteflag

chrisintn
02-14-2014, 01:23 AM
I have seen a plethra of E4OD problem threads popping up lately. I hope that this thread will help guide those with issues through the diagnostic and maybe even the repair process. Hopefully this can save some of you some time, money, and frustration.

The E4OD serves it's purpose but it's purpose is not high mileage use in a Bronco nor offroad use. The E4OD is an electronically controlled transmission, that like many A/T's, does NOT like heat. Read on and find your specific issue.

I encourage those familiar with the E4OD to help me by providing your information, experiences, and providing and correcting information in this thread.

This is in no way the end-all be all of transmission diagnosis. This is only a means of helping you to diagnose your own transmission. If you feel that something has lead you to a dead end, post. This is in no way a replacement for a QUALITY transmission shop (read: NOT AAMCO!). I am not a mechanic nor am I a transmission specialist. I am merely someone who has dealt with my own E4OD problems and am trying to apply that in order to help others. Read on at your own risk

Step 1:

So you've encountered a problem. Let's start by using the KISS method. Check your transmission fluid. To do this ensure that the truck is in park, running, and on level ground. If the fluid is low, top is off. DO NOT OVERFILL YOUR TRANSMISSION. This will cause the fluid to froth and will be as bad as not having enough fluid.

You want to also make sure that the fluid is a nice bright red and does not have a burnt odor. If it is dark or has a strong burnt order, change your fluid, filter, and pan gasket.

Doing this is very simple. Drain the pan, drop the pan, pull old filter out, install new filter, reinstall filter, gasket, and pan. Refill with fluid. Remember, your transmission is running between 150 and 200*F. The fluid is sitting in a pan and does not quickly dissapate heat. Let your transmission cool before working on it.

"My transmission doesn't have a drain plug". You have only one option this time. Crack the pan and drain it. Ford offers a pan with a drain plug and you can search for writeups on drain plug installation.

Here is the P/N for the Ford pan w/ the drain plug F81Z 7A194 BA

Step 2:

Pull codes! Here is a writeup on how to pull codes:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13

Here are what the codes mean

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=45

From here you can pretty much diagnose any issue that you can imagine. The EEC-IV is good at helping us determine what is acting up in our vehicles. Most times it will come down to a bad sensor, solenoid pack, etc. We'll get back to these later.

I got one of the following codes. What do I do?

121, 122, 123, 167

You have a problem with your TPS. At this point you can either further diagnose that issue or replace the TPS.

566, 617, 618, 619, 621, 622, 626, 627, 629, 641

Your solenoid pack is affected. You either have a bad solenoid pack or a problem in the harness or connectors. A new solenoid pack can be purchased from Ford. Here is a thread with some good solenoid pack info

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61008&highlight

634, 654, 667, 668, 675,

636, 637, 638, 657

This was caused by either a faulty TOT (Transmission Over Temperature) sensor, a bad connector or harness, or the transmission was overheated.


Step 3:

The newest Bronco is, at this point, 12 years old. Connectors get dirty, the break, and wires get brittle. You may find that you are having a transmission problem and that it is just a dirty connection. So what connectors are there on the E4OD and what do they do?

The connector on the driver's side of the transmission is for the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor). This tells the transmission what gear you have selected so that it may act accordingly. The connector on the passenger's side of the transmission is the shift solenoid connector.

Pull these connectors and inspect them and the wiring very thoroughly. Get some electric contact cleaner and spray down the connectors on the harness and the transmission thoroughly. After you have done this, be sure to let them dry. Reconnect them and see if your condition approves. Pull codes again and see what you are left with.

Step 4:

VSS and TPS cleaning and adjusting

The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=33

These work by reading the speed of the tone ring as the teeth pass by the sensor. Your sensor is located on top of the rear differential. It is held on by a bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the sensor. You likely will find that it is covered in metal shavings. Don't panic, this is normal. Wipe the VSS clean and reinstall. The same goes here, inspect the connector and wiring and clean. Pull codes again.

VSS Testing

http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/pdf/Counterpoint4_2.pdf

Another sensor that likes to play tricks on the E4OD is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=30

So now you've done all your tests and your transmission is still having issues. I will break down some of the more common issues not including internal hardware failure.

Common Transmission Issues

I'm getting a hard shift from 1st to 2nd

This is called "safe mode" also referred to as limp mode. The transmission is essentially protecting itself from any further damage you may cause. The transmission is forcing itself to shift using pressure rather than the shift solenoids. Be aware that this is normal when there is a problem and you should continue with your diagnosis.

More info on limp mode

http://web.archive.org/web/20040205144343/http://www.autotransinc.com/limp.htm

I have a hard/delayed shift into reverse

This is an extremely common problem with the E4OD. The transmission requires a lot of fluid to engage reverse. This takes time and often leads to a very firm shift. Don't worry, you arn't the only one. Do a search and you will find lots of threads regarding the issue.

Here is an article on how to fix it. Be warned, it will require internal modification.

http://www.altousa.com/ib26759.htm

I don't have Reverse!

Repeat all the above. Hopefully it is an MLPS but could be an internal problem.

My transmission will not shift into 3rd or 4th but I am not getting any codes

This is a tricky one. It could be many things but if you have been offroading, mudding, or driving through deep water, I recommend you replace your alternator and see if this happens. It is possible that the rectifier circuit went and the alternator is sending a mixed AC/DC signal to the PCM confusing it.


My truck wants to stall when put in reverse

This may or may not be accompanied by irraddic idle and/or codes. If no codes are found pull the IAC (Idle Air Control) sensor and clean/replace as needed.

Here is an IAC cleaning writeup

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25878&highlight=IAC+cleaning

Another potential problem is that the transmission filter may have dropped into the pan. This is easy enough to fix. Remove pan, reinstall filter, fill with fluid.

There is a clip made that will help hold the filter in place since from the factory the filter is only held in by the o-ring. Look 3/4 of the way down this page.

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

It looks like this:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/clip2.jpg

There is also a magnet from Ford that works as a filter retainer. p/n F3RZ-7E290-AC

http://web.archive.org/web/20010727174755/http://www.spxfiltran.com/Bulletins/toledo/techbulletin.asp?num=037

My truck starts off in 4th gear

This can be accompanied by a draining dead battery and a self diagnosis not initiating. This can be caused by the EEC relay.

More info here:

http://web.archive.org/web/20040216225246/http://atcdg.com/TechBulletins/bull_125.htm

When I come to a stop my transmission feels like it goes into Neutral

This is likely an issue with your MLPS.

My trucks slips into neutral and then slams into gear whenever it wants

MLPS

My Speedo needle is bouncing

Either an issue with the VSS or the tone ring located in the rear diff. Inspect and replace as necessary.

MLPS INFO

After 94 the MLPS was redisigned with a different connector to keep out water. I recommend buying a new MLPS from Ford. It will require you to repin the harness connector.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40055

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1256948&postcount=37

MLPS Testing

http://www.transonline.com/transDigest/magazines/1998-10%2FShift%20Pointers/index.html

MLPS Sensor Values

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/485085/thumbnail/sensorvalues.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/485085_1)

The Ultimate TPS Thread

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53840&highlight=TPS

When I come to a stop my truck lurches. Stalls at lights

Could be an issue with the TCC. Check the and clean the wiring on the solenoid pack connector. Test the MLPS.

Shift Solenoid Testing

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47918&highlight

My transmission is leaking fluid out the front

One of three conditions has likely happened.

1. The transmission too much fluid and was venting through the front pump

2. The transmission overheated and was venting fluid through the front pump

3. The front pump seal is bad.

Replacing the front pump seal is not involved once the transmission is out. Simply remove the old seal and install the new one. Purchase the seal from Ford. A transmission removal and install thread will be posted further down.

External trans filter, cooler, and thermostat install

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74305

E4OD Removal and Installation

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48997

Other Usefull Links

http://community.webshots.com/album/226936082LMvPPu

Random transmission parts

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm

http://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=OPTI&Category_Code=E4OD

Hard to find transmission parts

http://www.transpartsonline.com/tpfile/tpcat.asp?TransPartsOnline=E4OD&TransPartsType=E4OD

http://www.bulkpart.com/


This thread will be updated regularly as I progress and people help build the content. I will also re-arrange it for easy of reading. For now, please enjoy and add your input.

I recently had my trans filter drop on me and would not go into gear (e4od) I replaced the filter but I do not think I got all of the old O ring out of the valve body, replaced fluid and it still will not go into gear, do you think its because some of the old O ring is still stuck in the valve body?:banghead

OldYellerCJ7
03-14-2014, 01:18 PM
Hey all, just got a 94 Bronco XLT and had a few questions about this weird third tail light being a vital part of the beloved E40D... What if I want to (I know... seatbelts..) take the top off? Will it mess up my transmission if the third bulb isnt plugged in? Also, is there any way to bypass this design?? I am having a hard time wrapping my head around this idea that a tail light bulb can affect the life of a transmission... hmm.... That is all. Passing the soap box. Thank you.

Bronco_Justin
05-31-2014, 06:04 PM
whats a matter with aamco?

stangmata
06-01-2014, 12:15 AM
Hey all, just got a 94 Bronco XLT and had a few questions about this weird third tail light being a vital part of the beloved E40D... What if I want to (I know... seatbelts..) take the top off? Will it mess up my transmission if the third bulb isnt plugged in? Also, is there any way to bypass this design?? I am having a hard time wrapping my head around this idea that a tail light bulb can affect the life of a transmission... hmm.... That is all. Passing the soap box. Thank you.

It will have no affect on your trans.

whats a matter with aamco?

Everything.