E4OD transmission fluid and filter change [Archive] - FSB Forums

: E4OD transmission fluid and filter change


sewiv
09-09-2008, 12:33 AM
So, apparently on New Year's Day of 2007, I changed my transmission fluid and filter, and took a bunch of pictures. Then I apparently ignored those pictures for a long time, until about July of 2007, when I resized and cropped them. Then I ignored them some more, until tonight, when I uploaded them to Supermotors, and wrote this howto. Whaddaya want for free, anyway? :rofl: (Thanks to DEMIGOD for the final kick in the butt to get this thing done.)

Here we go, then, changing fluid and filter on an E4OD (including the torque converter) (specifically my 1994 5.0L MAF XLT, not that that makes much difference in this case):

First things first, safety safety safety. Set your parking brake, and since I don't trust your parking brake, chock your wheels. Some things that we will do in this writeup will require your transmission to possibly be in gear with not quite enough fluid in it, which means it could roll uncontrollably as though it were in neutral. Set the parking brake and chock the wheels.

Wear gloves. I wear these:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/584798/fullsize/gloves.jpg

Wear eye protection, goggles or face shield or whatever.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/306349/fullsize/faceshield.jpg

You'll want quite a large drain pan. I use this one:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/584803/fullsize/oilpan.jpg

A goodly amount of cardboard to protect your work floor would be helpful, too.

You'll need a filter replacement kit, preferably one that includes a new gasket. I like the rubber gaskets, myself. Some people prefer the cork. (I have no idea why I didn't take a picture of the filter kit part number.)

Edit:
need4racin gave this filter part number info:

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT113 - 2wd E4OD

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT114 - 4x4 E4OD, 2wd & 4x4 4R100

end of edit

You'll need some Mercon compatible transmission fluid (rather a lot, really). This is what I use:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670122/fullsize/mercon.jpg

I buy 2 cases of it (24 quarts). Stated capacity of the E4OD is 16.2 US quarts, but with the added external filter and large cooler, I figure it's better to have plenty of extra. Ford specifies Mercon, but I believe that a TSA came out recently that said that Mercon-V is usable in transmissions that formerly required Mercon. I just buy Mercon-compatible and leave it at that. You can do as you like, just don't blame me.

If you haven't already installed a filter clip, get one now and install it during this filter change. The E4OD is known for the filter dropping out of the valve body into the pan, and causing problems. The best-known symptom of this is that the truck stalls whenever you shift into reverse. There's a simple fix, though, and here it is:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670109/fullsize/clip1.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670110/fullsize/clip2.jpg

Inside that package you will find a couple of these simple sheetmetal clips, and a single page of instructions.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670112/fullsize/clipside.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670113/fullsize/cliptop.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670111/fullsize/clipinst.jpg

You only need one clip per transmission. I think I paid $4 for 2, plus shipping.

(That link is http://www.superior-transmission.com.)

(Wait, no, that's the manufacturer and they don't sell retail. Here's where I bought them: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/e4od.htm)

My old pan is missing something.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670126/fullsize/originalpan.jpg

A drain plug. I bought a new pan from Ford for about $45 or so. (You don't have to, and if you don't, just ignore the stuff in here about "new pan/old pan".)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670130/fullsize/panlabel.jpg

(for searching purposes, that's an E4OD/4R100 4x4 trans pan with drain plug, part # F81Z-7A194-BA )

Looks like this:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670127/fullsize/panbottom.jpg

Pull out the dipstick, clean it, and set it aside someplace where you won't bend or lose it. My dipstick looks like this:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670114/fullsize/dipstick.jpg

and fits in here (on the passenger side of the engine):

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670115/fullsize/dipstick_hole.jpg

We'll start by draining the torque converter. (You don't have to drain the TC every time you change your fluid, but it's pretty easy.) The TC is bolted to the flexplate on the back of the engine, and spins with the engine. The drain plug is in the "side" of the torque converter, and we'll need to turn the engine over to line the plug up with the access hole. Here's the access hole cover (circled in red) in the bottom of the bell housing:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670142/fullsize/tqcover.jpg

It's a rubber plug. Use caution removing it, so that you don't push it into the bell housing, and so that all the gunk that has collected above it doesn't cover your face when you get it out. If you do push it into the bell housing, you can remove the dust cover behind the exhaust crossover and get it back out.

I'm lazy, so I use the electric motor that the Ford Motor Company kindly attached to the engine to turn it. (You could also put a wrench on the balancer bolt on the front of the crankshaft, but for me this is easier.) See http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63592 for instructions on how to hook up your remote ignition switch (and disconnect the coil wire, just to be sure), then dangle the switch down where you can reach it under the truck and it won't get caught in any belts or anything.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670140/fullsize/starterswitch.jpg

You need to bump the engine around until the drain plug shows up in the access hole.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670143/fullsize/tqdrain.jpg

Position your drain pan, and unscrew that bolt just like any other drain plug. I think it's a 10mm head on mine.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670145/fullsize/tqparts.jpg

Let it drain out for a while.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670144/fullsize/tqdraining.jpg

After it's pretty much drained out, put the plug back in (don't crank on it, just put it in so it doesn't leak), and put the access hole cover back in place. (If the access hole cover won't stay in place, use a little RTV on it.)

Now we can start on the transmission pan itself. It's got 20 10mm bolts all around the perimeter. Loosen all of them a half-turn or so. Pick a corner, and remove the bolts nearest that corner. Then loosen each bolt moving away from the corner, so that the whole pan tilts towards that corner. You're going to want your drain pan ready, and have plenty of cardboard down. You may need to pry on the edge of the pan a bit to get the gasket to let loose. Don't bend the lip of the pan or scratch the sealing surface on the transmission.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670131/fullsize/panloosened.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670133/fullsize/pantilted.jpg

If you're not careful (and a little lucky), this whole process can make a pretty big mess.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670123/fullsize/messy.jpg

Once you've got the pan off, you can see that there's not much difference between the two. The old pan is on top, and it has a divot where the magnet sits, whereas the new pan has a slightly larger sump area, a drain plug, and a couple of divots over on the right there, that help to hold up the filter. (If you're not replacing the pan, clean it really well with brake cleaner or something similar.)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670108/fullsize/bothpans.jpg

The new pan doesn't come with a magnet, so you'll need to clean up the one in your old pan and move it over to the new one. (Oddly enough, it fits perfectly around the drain plug. Almost as if someone had designed it that way. Weird.)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670119/fullsize/magnet1.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670120/fullsize/magnet2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670121/fullsize/magnet3.jpg

Getting back to the filter change, here's what you see with the pan off. Make sure you carefully clean the gasket surface on the transmission. Don't nick it, if you have to scrape it (which hopefully you don't), use a plastic tool.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670132/fullsize/panoff.jpg

That black plastic tube-ish thing is the filter fluid pickup. The filter is the flat ribbed silver thing above it.

Pull it out. It's just a friction fit.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670134/fullsize/pullingfilter.jpg

Once it's out, you're looking at the valve body and shift solenoid pack.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670146/fullsize/valvebody.jpg

Let it drain for a while. It'll drip from all over.

START OF OPTIONAL SECTION. SKIP IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN EXTERNAL TRANNY FILTER.

While it's draining, you can change your external filter (assuming you have installed one. If you haven't, search this site and do it).

You should change the external filter every time you change your oil, and every time you change your internal filter.

First, you need a small drain pan or drip tray. Position it under your remote filter mount.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670225/fullsize/drip_tray.jpg

Here's my mount from above:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670226/fullsize/mount_top.jpg

and below:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670227/fullsize/mount_below.jpg

Once your drip tray is in place, just spin off the old filter. It should come off easily, though you may need to use an oil filter wrench if you put it on too tight last time, or failed to oil the gasket. Keep it upright and it won't even make much of a mess.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670228/fullsize/mount_clean.jpg

Clean up the mount with a rag, making sure your old gasket isn't stuck to it, then get out your new Motorcraft FL1-A (or whatever filter you happen to be using on your external mount, there are a lot of choices) and a bottle of new transmission fluid.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670224/fullsize/filter.jpg

Fill up the filter with new tranny fluid. It'll take a while to sink down into the filter, so go slow, in several stages. Make sure you coat the entire gasket with new tranny fluid as well.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670229/fullsize/fullfilter.jpg

Take the new filter, and spin it onto the mount. Once the filter gasket contacts the gasket surface on the mount, turn it another half-turn or so, just tight enough that it doesn't leak (just like an oil filter).

Now that the external filter change is done, and you've let the valve body drain for a while, let's get back to the internal filter change.

END OF OPTIONAL SECTION

Check out your new internal filter, make sure it looks like the old one.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670125/fullsize/newfilter-seal.jpg

Wait a minute! What's that orange thing? The filter I pulled out didn't have that.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670137/fullsize/sealgone.jpg

Well, that's your filter seal. It always seems to get left behind in the valve body.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670139/fullsize/sealstuck.jpg

You can carefully remove it with a hooked pick. Be careful not to nick the inside of the hole that it's stuck in.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670138/fullsize/sealout.jpg

Once you've removed the old seal, you can lube up the new seal with some fresh tranny fluid, and slide the new filter into place.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670118/fullsize/lubeseal.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670124/fullsize/newfilter.jpg

Now that it's in place, we can install the filter clip. It's held on with one of the valve body bolts, which I believe are 8mm.

I'm pretty sure that, according to the directions,

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670117/fullsize/instclose.jpg

it's this one

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670141/fullsize/thisone.jpg

right here:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670136/fullsize/righthere.jpg

Yup, that seemed to work.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670147/fullsize/withclip.jpg

Okay, filter's back in place, so now we just need to get the new gasket and pan in place. Use a light coat of heavy grease, like axle or bearing grease, to hold the gasket in place on the pan. It'll make your life a LOT easier.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670129/fullsize/pangrease.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670128/fullsize/pangasket.jpg

(There's grease on the top side of the gasket only because I dropped it putting it into place. It behaved a lot like buttered bread.)

Put the pan in place, and screw in the 20 bolts that hold it on. Don't crank them down, they just need to hold the pan in place and not leak. If the rubber seal is squeezing out between the bolt holes, the bolts are way too tight. Tighten them in a pattern, too, in several stages. Don't just crank one down and move on to the one next to it. Haynes says 10-14 ft-lbs (using a torque wrench, not just guessing), and moving in a diagonal pattern (so, one corner, then the opposite, and so on).

Here it is, in all its glory.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670116/fullsize/finished.jpg

(Yeah, that drain plug is kind of low. I'd rather it was on the side of the sump, but what can you do?)

Now that everything is buttoned up, it's time to refill the transmission. Put a long funnel in the dipstick hole and start dumping in the new fluid. (While the bottles are draining in, you can disconnect the remote starter switch and reconnect the coil wire.)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/670135/fullsize/refilling.jpg

I usually put in a full case (12 quarts) (assuming I drained the torque converter), then start the engine. Don't rev it up, just let it idle for a minute or two. Check the pan gasket (and the external filter, if you have one) for leaks while it's idling. Then, with your foot on the brake (and the parking brake on and the wheels chocked), shift into each gear for about 20 seconds, and back to neutral. Check the level of the trans fluid (with the engine running, in neutral), and add enough to bring it up to the bottom hole on the dipstick. (edit: The crosshatched area on the dipstick is only 1 pint (1/2 bottle) "high". Don't over-fill.) If you have to add more than a quart, go through the gears again. You'll be able to tell when you are getting enough fluid in there, because you'll be able to feel the transmission actually shift into gear when you move the selector.

After you are getting solid gear engagement, and the level is at least at the lowest hole on the dipstick, drive around gently for about 15 minutes, to get the tranny up to temperature. (Don't forget about your wheel chocks.) If you feel any slippage, stop and add some fluid. Don't add more than half a pint (a quarter of a bottle) at a time. Once it's warmed up, make sure that the fluid level is showing in the crosshatches on the dipstick.

There you go. Easy-peasy, no?

Coming up: Front and rear differentials, transfer case, and lubing your rear slipshaft for fun and profit.

The Reverend Floater
09-09-2008, 12:46 AM
Seriously? You rule. Thanks for making these things so easy for us newbs. This is definitely an upcoming project for me since I don't know the last time it was done. :beer

Need4racin
09-09-2008, 01:04 AM
From the bottom of the cross hatch, to the top is one pint. Not one quart. So be careful doing that.

The dipstick says check fluid, warm idling in park. Why do they recommend this? It's easier to read the dipstick in neutral.

Instead of grease for the pan gasket, I always use rtv, any color. Put amount that back of the bottle says and then lay the gasket down on it. Get it all straight and perfect and let the pan sit there for 20 mins drying. I always found that the easiest because the gasket doesn't move when you install the pan.

E4od with flat pan holes can use rubber gaskets, but e4od with raise spots around the bolts need a cork gasket.

When i bought the e4od filter clip the current price was $6 plus shipping. It was $8 to ship me two clips. So it ended up costing me $21 to have two filter clips shipped to me. Kinda expensive, but worth it.

Brake cleaner is your friend, Spray some on a towel and wipe the mounting surface on the transmission.
I used a whole can cleaning my pan and gasket.

sewiv
09-09-2008, 01:09 AM
From the bottom of the cross hatch, to the top is one pint. Not one quart. So be careful doing that.

Yup, important point. Also, it doesn't need to be at the top of the crosshatches, just *in* the crosshatched section.

The dipstick says check fluid, warm idling in park. Why do they recommend this? It's easier to read the dipstick in neutral.

What difference does it make? Isn't park just neutral with the parking pawl engaged?

Instead of grease for the pan gasket, I always use rtv, any color. Put amount that back of the bottle says and then lay the gasket down on it. Get it all straight and perfect and let the pan sit there for 20 mins drying. I always found that the easiest because the gasket doesn't move when you install the pan.

It didn't move when I put it on just using grease.

E4od with flat pan holes can use rubber gaskets, but e4od with raise spots around the bolts need a cork gasket.

Good information, and all the more reason to get a new pan, in my opinion.

When i bought the e4od filter clip the current price was $6 plus shipping. It was $8 to ship me two clips. So it ended up costing me $21 to have to filter clips shipped to me. Kinda expensive, but worth it.

Ouch. I think I paid $28 shipped with two cans of trans line flush.

Shadofax
09-09-2008, 02:34 PM
The park vs. neutral I'd say is just a matter of safety. Ford's not going to print that you conduct some dipstick checking under the hood with the vehicle running and in neutral.

Your newer filter should have had a couple dimples on it....for the original pan that does not have dimples, these help support it.

Great writeup you covered all the important items....the rubber seal of the filter staying in the tranny pickup hole, the great idea to install the filter clip, etc. How often mileage wise do you plan to do your next tranny service Sandy, and will it just be a fluid drain?

Edit: In looking at NAPA's gasket/filter kits (and having purchased them twice before) I'm pretty sure I've been putting on the rubber gasket (which I prefer as well) but with the raised spots around the holes. oopps, well, it's not leaked, but I'll have to look into this. I'd just buy the new pan, but don't want that drain bolt right at the bottom.

sewiv
09-09-2008, 02:47 PM
How often mileage wise do you plan to do your next tranny service Sandy, and will it just be a fluid drain?

The book says 60K miles or 5 years for a filter change. Probably, with the drain plug, I'll just do a fluid change before winter this year (don't remember what the mileage is at right now, I haven't driven it much lately), and let the internal filter go another year or so.

Edit: In looking at NAPA's gasket/filter kits (and having purchased them twice before) I'm pretty sure I've been putting on the rubber gasket (which I prefer as well) but with the raised spots around the holes. oopps, well, it's not leaked, but I'll have to look into this. I'd just buy the new pan, but don't want that drain bolt right at the bottom.

I'm pretty sure my old pan had the flat holes. You can have it if you want, for the cost of the trip, and put your own drain plug in it. The magnet dimple would be a good place to drill, probably. It's on the side of the sump. I can check the holes later.

AH94
09-09-2008, 05:55 PM
I was looking at the NAPA catalog last week and they list a filter kit with cork gasket
and an upgraded kit with rubber neoprene gasket.
Question: should you drain the external filter lines or it doesn't matter?
On another tranny post, someone recommended using a cleaner called
Kooler Klean by Lubegard. Did you ever use this?
I went to Advance, Zone, Pep Homos and nobody carries it.
Are the filter clips mail order only?
Thanks.

sewiv
09-09-2008, 07:18 PM
I was looking at the NAPA catalog last week and they list a filter kit with cork gasket
and an upgraded kit with rubber neoprene gasket.

Depends on your drain pan. Some want cork, some want rubber. I *think* the neoprene gasket will work with either, but I can't guarantee it. What does NAPA say?

Question: should you drain the external filter lines or it doesn't matter?

Not enough in there to matter.

On another tranny post, someone recommended using a cleaner called
Kooler Klean by Lubegard. Did you ever use this? I went to Advance, Zone, Pep Homos and nobody carries it.

I bought some Cooler Flush stuff, from the same site that I bought the clips, but I never used it. You can use it if you like. I'd disconnect both cooler lines from the transmission and use it that way, so that you get the whole length of the cooling system. I'm not sure what it'll necessarily do for you if you aren't having problems, though, other than maybe flush out a little crud from the cooler. I'd certainly use it before I replaced a transmission that blew, because that puts all kinds of crud into the lines.

Are the filter clips mail order only?

I've never seen them anywhere else. You can read the site on that first image of the instruction sheet, that's where I got them.

SigEpBlue
09-09-2008, 07:26 PM
:clap VERY nice job.


You're a braver man that I, bringing a camera out to the garage. :rofl:

Shadofax
09-09-2008, 10:54 PM
The book says 60K miles or 5 years for a filter change. Probably, with the drain plug, I'll just do a fluid change before winter this year (don't remember what the mileage is at right now, I haven't driven it much lately), and let the internal filter go another year or so.



I'm pretty sure my old pan had the flat holes. You can have it if you want, for the cost of the trip, and put your own drain plug in it. The magnet dimple would be a good place to drill, probably. It's on the side of the sump. I can check the holes later.

I might take you up on that. Seems like someone else has drilled their own hole for a drain. just not sure how you would tap thin steel like that or if that would even be needed. You said you were sent 2 filter clips? so maybe your spare can ride along for a minimal added fee? kinda strange they send 2 in a box?

Need4racin
09-09-2008, 11:07 PM
no, only one filter clip comes in a box for $6 + shipping. I bought two since we have two e4od trucks in the family.

You can buy trans pan drain plugs at advanced auto for $2.

Looks just like this.
http://www.400raptor.com/DrainPlug.jpg
All you have to do is drill a 1/2 hole in the pan. Use some loctite on the part that holds the drain plug to the pan. You will understand what I'm talking about when you put a drain plug in.

sewiv
09-10-2008, 09:36 AM
I might take you up on that. Seems like someone else has drilled their own hole for a drain. just not sure how you would tap thin steel like that or if that would even be needed. You said you were sent 2 filter clips? so maybe your spare can ride along for a minimal added fee? kinda strange they send 2 in a box?

They come 2 in a box, I dunno why. Lemme see what it'll cost to replace, since I've got another E4OD I was thinking about rebuilding.

(Edit: Now they come only one in a box from the second link I posted above. $6 + shipping, as noted above. The manufacturer says they come 2 to a box, and I know there were two in my box. Maybe someone's shanghai-ing one of them somewhere along the way.)

Sixlitre put a drain plug in his AOD, he just welded a nut inside the pan. Or you can use a universal plug like is shown above.

From the pictures above, the holes are flat on the old pan, but there are ridges between them. I don't know if that matters, I don't think so. I had a rubber gasket on there, you can see it in the pictures.

Got your old front ABS sensor shields? I need a couple of those.

s1120
09-10-2008, 09:58 AM
Shouldn't the e4od take MV fluid???

sewiv
09-10-2008, 10:53 AM
What's MV?

The manual specs Mercon. In a talk I had with a Ford transmission engineer, he said the best way to kill a transmission was to put the wrong fluid in it.

s1120
09-10-2008, 11:21 AM
Sorry... I ment Mercon V ie 5

sewiv
09-10-2008, 11:40 AM
Until very recently, Mercon V was NOT specified for the E4OD. I remember seeing a TSA about Mercon V replacing all old Mercon specs, but I'd have to see it again to remember the details.

I just use Mercon-compatible, it's what's specified in the owner's manual.

Shadofax
09-10-2008, 01:54 PM
They come 2 in a box, I dunno why. Lemme see what it'll cost to replace, since I've got another E4OD I was thinking about rebuilding.

Sixlitre put a drain plug in his AOD, he just welded a nut inside the pan. Or you can use a universal plug like is shown above.

From the pictures above, the holes are flat on the old pan, but there are ridges between them. I don't know if that matters, I don't think so. I had a rubber gasket on there, you can see it in the pictures.

Got your old front ABS sensor shields? I need a couple of those.

I'll check, but I don't think so. I'll PM you so as not to muck up this nice writeup any further.

Thanks for the pic need4racing, that will work perfect and I see how it works by the pic.

DEMIGOD
09-11-2008, 07:24 PM
Thanks for the write up......this will be a upcoming weekend project for sure. Thanks again...you the man!!!!!!

DEMIGOD
09-13-2008, 08:40 PM
Thanks for the write up. This was the first tranny fluid/filter change I have ever done and thanks to your post it was fairly painless. I bought a filter kit with a rubber gasket and my pan had raised holes. I installed it anyways and havent got any leaks that i have noticed. However, I have noticed that the Bronco stalls just a tad bit when going from D to R, but as mentioned earlier I think its due to the filter moving. I didnt have the cash or time to wait for the clip, but it will go in nect time. I have to take the truck to TN in a few months, so I will just do the process again. My bronco is a 91 with 129,000 miles on her and I can almost bet that this was the first tranny fluid change see saw. I dont believe the previous owner took good care of her, but I am trying to nurse her back to health. :)

Shadofax
10-14-2008, 04:53 PM
Hey Sandy, the tranny place you bought the clip from, did you also buy the filter kit from them? They have one for $12 and have pics of some of their kits which show filter and gasket. The E4OD has no pic. They list a dozen numbers for calling them so just trying to confirm if you got a complete kit from them (they are cheap at $12!!, napa wants more than 2x's that).

Need4racin
10-14-2008, 08:22 PM
I ordered a motorcraft e4od filter kit off rockauto on sunday. It should get here Thursday. Anyway rockauto and motorcraft's part number lookup didn't have the filter listed. I found on the internet that these parts numbers work on the e4od/4r100 transmissions.

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT113 - 2wd E4OD

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT114 - 4x4 E4OD, 2wd & 4x4 4R100

I paid $25 for the filter kit (ft114) shipped to me.

sewiv
10-15-2008, 01:35 AM
Hey Sandy, the tranny place you bought the clip from, did you also buy the filter kit from them? They have one for $12 and have pics of some of their kits which show filter and gasket. The E4OD has no pic. They list a dozen numbers for calling them so just trying to confirm if you got a complete kit from them (they are cheap at $12!!, napa wants more than 2x's that).

Nope, just the clip. $12 is cheap with a gasket. I think I paid $20 in the local shop.

Sorry about the delay on the pan, Shadofax. Still want it?

sewiv
10-15-2008, 01:35 AM
I ordered a motorcraft e4od filter kit off rockauto on sunday. It should get here Thursday. Anyway rockauto and motorcraft's part number lookup didn't have the filter listed. I found on the internet that these parts numbers work on the e4od/4r100 transmissions.

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT113 - 2wd E4OD

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT114 - 4x4 E4OD, 2wd & 4x4 4R100

I paid $25 for the filter kit (ft114) shipped to me.

info added to the top post. Thanks.

Shadofax
10-15-2008, 01:53 PM
I ordered a motorcraft e4od filter kit off rockauto on sunday. It should get here Thursday. Anyway rockauto and motorcraft's part number lookup didn't have the filter listed. I found on the internet that these parts numbers work on the e4od/4r100 transmissions.

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT113 - 2wd E4OD

MOTORCRAFT Part # FT114 - 4x4 E4OD, 2wd & 4x4 4R100

I paid $25 for the filter kit (ft114) shipped to me.

You have a link for that? I don't see any Motorcraft filter kit FT114 listed at Rockauto for a '95 Ford Bronco 4x4 with E4OD.

Shadofax
10-16-2008, 01:35 PM
Nope, just the clip. $12 is cheap with a gasket. I think I paid $20 in the local shop.

Sorry about the delay on the pan, Shadofax. Still want it?

I'd love to have a spare, but right now I'm buying nothing.

That clip I ordered...their site does not give add shipping, so I ordered anyway.....

tiny little clip $6
shipping $12

bunch of sheetttt.:barf

Need4racin
10-16-2008, 03:37 PM
I know, I was sorta mad when I saw the shipping price, I hate ordering then finding out the shipping cost later. Just wish someone else sold that filter clip.

The ft114 filter was delivered today, it doesn't come with a gasket sadly, you have to reuse your stock reusable rubber gasket if you have one.

Fax i tried looking up a motorcraft filter for your 95 e4od, it doesn't list any. But when I look it up for a 96 bronco e4od it lists the ft113, which is the wrong transmission filter.

So i searched around on the internet till i found the 4x4 e4od part number. You have to click on find by part number on rockauto then type in your part number.

Heres where I found the part number (http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/199497_3/forums.thedieselstop.com/archives/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=918266&page=74&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm)

And here is the filter I received today.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/680114/fullsize/e4odfilter-003.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/680113/fullsize/e4odfilter-001.jpg

Shadofax
10-25-2008, 05:51 PM
Well, did my tranny fluid again today. It is interesting the filter I had from napa that I pulled was like the motorcraft one in that:

1) it was all plastic
2) it has an angled pick up tube as seen in the pic above

The one I installed is exactly like Sewiv's in that the pickup is not angled and the lower half was aluminum or something
and unfortunately made in china, so we'll see. It did have a couple tabs that press it up against the tranny at the pan suck-pickup end, so that's a good thing. The motorcraft pic above does not have these tabs. I think they just help make sure the filter is not allowed to move and just sits there under all conditions...likely good for the little rubber pickup seal. It did come with the rubber pan gasket as well. So far no leaks which is what I live for with a tranny fluid change, I hate this job.

Some other notes:

-- I also installed the filter clip and just did not like how it tended to pull the filter a little toward it. My fear here was that it could compromise the seal the little rubber has up into the tranny hole. So I pulled it again and bent it a little so it was not pushing up quite so much and making it bend sideways some. I also used a little bit of locktite blue on the bolt for the tranny. Now that I had broke that bolt loose I wanted to make sure it was going back in and staying there with the clip on, so I cleaned the bolt with brake cleaner, made sure the hole was clean and then put the locktite and clip on and reinstalled. It also stayed like that for about an hour before the tranny fluid went back in.

--As usual, my magnet and pan were pretty clean, just some "metallic slush" stuck to the magnet. Last fluid/filter change was about 17k ago, about 3.5yrs.

I chose not to drill and install the drain plug pictured above. I chickened out because I did not want a leak, and don't want to do this again for some time. So Sandy, I may still take you up on your old pan if you still would part with it. This would allow me to put the plug in there, clean your's all up, and "test" it for leaks by putting some fluid in the pan and leaving it for a time. Or maybe welding it, I dunno.

Basically I did just another tranny fluid change like I always do, exception being the filter clip add so I'm happy that is there.

Edit: So if I look at the two filters pictured in this thread it seems to me the motorcraft pan pickup is moved forward a little but angled, and that's likely a good thing to allow the fluid to move a slightly angled tube, angled toward where the hole is going into the tranny. both filters do seem to pick up the fluid in the same pan location however (the straight tube is further back on the filter if that makes sense, so they both pickup fluid in the same location).

silent one
10-26-2008, 02:46 PM
I need to do this one of these days. I have a question though, my bronco has 114xxx on it and i don't know if the fluid has ever been changed and wan't to know if there is any problems that come with changing high milage fluid.

The trans shifts fine and fluid color looks ok.

ponyboy88
10-26-2008, 03:14 PM
how often do u suggest torque converter fluid change?

Need4racin
10-26-2008, 03:30 PM
atleast every 60k miles.

Shadofax
10-26-2008, 03:32 PM
If the fluid looks ok I'm sure it's at least been replaced once before if not more. By 114k it should have been done 3 times and it would be due again (manuf. recommend about every 30k).


the torque convertor fluid does get new fluid mixed in even if you don't drain it. I really have just done fluid and filter every 20k and usually do not do the torque convertor. So I don't end up with totally new fluid, but this seems to work just fine.

79BlueMule
10-26-2008, 09:43 PM
I need to do this one of these days. I have a question though, my bronco has 114xxx on it and i don't know if the fluid has ever been changed and wan't to know if there is any problems that come with changing high milage fluid.

The trans shifts fine and fluid color looks ok.

if it looks fine and works fine DONT TOUCH IT. lol think of it this way. the clutches are like icy porch steps. over time some fibers and torque converter clutch fiber gets impregnated in the clutch fibers and float around in the fluid. picture it as throwing sand on those icy steps. you can walk right up without slipping. Now change that fluid and it flushes the fibers out. same as taking the water hose to those steps and rinsing the sand away. now there's no friction coefitient between the steels and frictions. same as your shoes on the steps. you and your trans will slip.

silent one
10-26-2008, 10:18 PM
if it looks fine and works fine DONT TOUCH IT. lol think of it this way. the clutches are like icy porch steps. over time some fibers and torque converter clutch fiber gets impregnated in the clutch fibers and float around in the fluid. picture it as throwing sand on those icy steps. you can walk right up without slipping. Now change that fluid and it flushes the fibers out. same as taking the water hose to those steps and rinsing the sand away. now there's no friction coefitient between the steels and frictions. same as your shoes on the steps. you and your trans will slip.

This is what i am scared of. I don't know why i never did it when i first got it but now i am scared that i am going to cause problems if i change it.

Shadofax
10-26-2008, 10:43 PM
my fluid looks fine, and the tranny shifts fine. that's because I've been into the pan, changed the fluid, the filter and cleaned the magnet. And I've don this on a fairly decent schedule. I don't fool with things, but you can't just leave fluid in there to get ungodly old. Your tranny will puke on it eventually. I'm not one to mess with stuff, but, like my engine, the fluid and filter must be changed at some reasonable interval, period.

79BlueMule
10-26-2008, 10:50 PM
This is what i am scared of. I don't know why i never did it when i first got it but now i am scared that i am going to cause problems if i change it.

i didnt wanna go this far because i know i am gonna get flamed big time for it (especially in this particular thread lol) but here we go...

it wont prevent your trans from dying, even if it was done since day one. An engine gets "contamination of oil" from outside sources. I.E. fuel and air and combustion blowby. But a transmission is a sealed system, in the fact that all of its contamination comes from inside the unit. (except if you dunk it under water but thats a different story, lol) no amount of fluid and filter changes will keep planetaries from coming to pieces, or torque converters from making metal, or other sources of conatminants being made. changing the fluid may get you by for a week or a month or so after a problem has begun, but it wont prevent anything. Therefore the 50 or so bucks spent every time changing the fluid could be applied towards having the unit built once it does fail (because it WILL fail one day) or you could change it every 30k or so and spend 200 dollars on fluid and filters and then have to pay to have the unit built. just my .02 :rockon

~Joseph

redbeast9
10-26-2008, 11:11 PM
Great write up!!! Thanks. As for the clip. For 18 buxs I think there will be a few people on here making there own, I will during my next fluid change.

I agree with 79BlueMule to an extent. But keeping the debris out as much as posiable will make your bands last longer and keep the valves from clogging causing harder shifts or delayed shifts which over time will destry the trans. The bottom line is that in most casses keeping the fluid/filter changed will alow the trans to perform as designed which in turn will usaly make it last a little longer. But keep in mind that driving habits has the biggest effect on how long a auto trans will last.

silent one
10-26-2008, 11:24 PM
i didnt wanna go this far because i know i am gonna get flamed big time for it (especially in this particular thread lol) but here we go...

it wont prevent your trans from dying, even if it was done since day one. An engine gets "contamination of oil" from outside sources. I.E. fuel and air and combustion blowby. But a transmission is a sealed system, in the fact that all of its contamination comes from inside the unit. (except if you dunk it under water but thats a different story, lol) no amount of fluid and filter changes will keep planetaries from coming to pieces, or torque converters from making metal, or other sources of conatminants being made. changing the fluid may get you by for a week or a month or so after a problem has begun, but it wont prevent anything. Therefore the 50 or so bucks spent every time changing the fluid could be applied towards having the unit built once it does fail (because it WILL fail one day) or you could change it every 30k or so and spend 200 dollars on fluid and filters and then have to pay to have the unit built. just my .02 :rockon

~Joseph

I totally understand all that, i am a tech at a dealership but i don't know much about this trans. I just don't want to change the fluid on a trans with no problems and a week later having to rebuild the trans.

(sorry did not know how to say that without sounding like an a$$)

79BlueMule
10-26-2008, 11:28 PM
I just don't want to change the fluid on a trans with no problems and a week later having to rebuild the trans.

(sorry did not know how to say that without sounding like an a$$)

i've heard several horror stories of shops with a trans flush machine getting a car that has never been serviced and it wouldn't pull out of the bay when they were done "flushing" it. :doh0715: it can happen. i understand your worries

~Joseph

Shadofax
10-26-2008, 11:29 PM
i didnt wanna go this far because i know i am gonna get flamed big time for it (especially in this particular thread lol) but here we go...

it wont prevent your trans from dying, even if it was done since day one. An engine gets "contamination of oil" from outside sources. I.E. fuel and air and combustion blowby. But a transmission is a sealed system, in the fact that all of its contamination comes from inside the unit. (except if you dunk it under water but thats a different story, lol) no amount of fluid and filter changes will keep planetaries from coming to pieces, or torque converters from making metal, or other sources of conatminants being made. changing the fluid may get you by for a week or a month or so after a problem has begun, but it wont prevent anything. Therefore the 50 or so bucks spent every time changing the fluid could be applied towards having the unit built once it does fail (because it WILL fail one day) or you could change it every 30k or so and spend 200 dollars on fluid and filters and then have to pay to have the unit built. just my .02 :rockon

~Joseph

Sealed unit, well moreso than an engine, but the thinking I totally disagree with.

A tranmission lives by it's fluid. As the fluid ages, it gets internal contamination, the filter clogs, the magnet will only hold so much small particulate, and the fluid itself looses it's properties of keeping seals in good shape, clutch/shudder protection, and begins to accumulate varnish, and the overall trans temp begins to worsen. this is exactly what will severely shorten a transmission's life. Everything will die, so changing the fluid won't prevent that, but come on...do you want to die at 30 or live to 90???? Really has nothing to do with a sealed system vs. an engine breathing system.

Keep in mind here, Silent One just asked about potential issues with changing the fluid. You have to do this. And while the pan is dropped put a new filter in. You don't have to touch the torque convertor, so in essence you're mixing in some 50% new fluid, this won't freak out the trans, and will help it with that fresh fluid. Just don't go stripping the pan bolts. what does worry me is everyone's fascination these days with "flushing" stuff....engine seafoam, the tranny flush systems they have, etc. I say don't flush a tranny that is in decent shape and working, just give is some fresh blood.

79BlueMule
10-27-2008, 07:30 PM
As the fluid ages, it gets internal contamination, the filter clogs,

Keep in mind here, Silent One just asked about potential issues with changing the fluid.

You have to do this.

if the fluid has internal contamination, and the filter is clogged or getting clogged in 30k, then you have something seriously wrong. i understand the fluid will discolor over time from small amounts of friction material, which wont kill a unit.

And i am telling him what can happen if it has never been changed, and he changes it at 114k. is there 100% gaurentee that it will fail? no of course not, i was just warning him

~Joseph

Need4racin
11-01-2008, 03:38 PM
You can't go wrong following the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, which can be found on ford fleet website.

DNBELOWBRONCO
11-01-2008, 10:07 PM
You can't go wrong following the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, which can be found on ford fleet website. And fresh fluid is clean fluid & that can't be wrong. If your E4OD is working fine now on old fluid then it will work the same or better on new fluid. Your old fluid has broken down to some extent so putting new fluid in is a smart safeguard to ensure everything inside works as it should. Just because the PO didn't do regular maintenance it doesn't mean if you do all hell's going to break loose. Maybe you just catch it in the nick of time...:thumbup-Kevin-

79BlueMule
11-03-2008, 10:42 PM
Maybe some things like oil changes but 30,60,90k for tranny fluid changes doesn't sound out of line at all. Especially with all the abuse they go through! Hey, by the way, how are those Pittbulls on the pavement. They had those Rockers on an 85 Bronco out here on a show called TruckU & they were 37's I think too & they looked awesome but man they don't exactly give those things away do they? Great looking tire though. Bet they tear up the dirt pretty fu**ing good! I sold my 77 F150 when my daughter was born & bought this three months before, but I still miss that truck.:thumbup -Kevin-

i think they dont reccomend oil changes often enough, and trans service too often. lol i think absolutley no more than 3k on an oil change. it is the life blood of an engine, and dont bother to use full synthetic crap. regular oil changed every 3k will live and last great.

yeah i love the pitbulls. i'm actually looking to sell them though. (dontcha want em? lol) i'm wanting to go to a radial tire cause i'm tired of bias ply's going square when winter comes.

halflife
01-19-2009, 07:42 PM
anyone know about how much fluid if you don't drain the torque converter. I just had the tranny rebuilt and it is stalling in reverse so i am dropping the pan to see if the filter feel out. i have the trans clip to put in now. not going to drain the torque converter because it only has a few hundred miles on it.

gunterelectric226
01-19-2009, 07:59 PM
i did it with out the torque converter and, if I remember correctly(not likely), it was around 10 qrts. Like said previously just get a case.

Shadofax
01-19-2009, 09:16 PM
anyone know about how much fluid if you don't drain the torque converter. I just had the tranny rebuilt and it is stalling in reverse so i am dropping the pan to see if the filter feel out. i have the trans clip to put in now. not going to drain the torque converter because it only has a few hundred miles on it.

I never drain the t convertor. With my E4OD and tow package (so it has the tranny cooler), it's a little over 7 qts after a good drain. Fill to about 6 and then do the usual start/drive and check fluid.

79BlueMule
01-20-2009, 03:48 PM
if its only got a few hundred miles on it just catch what comes out, strain it, and then re use it.

NotOJuice
01-22-2009, 06:21 PM
why not just drill the hole first and not screw around with all the mess?

start with a pilot hole, let it drain and go pound a forty of steel reserve...come back, take the pan off thats almost totally empty and then drill the final 1/2" hole for your drain plug.

even if you dont feel like you'll be changing your fluid for a long time this makes it a much cleaner job in the first place.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/rippedhaus/bronco/CIMG1895.jpg

also if you happen to overfill...no problemo, just crack open the plug and take a smidge out

also...i have the pan with the raised bar things and used the rubber gasket included with my new filter. no leaks.

Rebelracer_NC
02-07-2009, 06:58 PM
I bought a rubber gasket before I realized that there might be a problem with the type of gasket depending on what pan. The rubber gasket looks like it would work perfect. The holes on the gasket are sized where they fit just right around the raised section around the bolt holes on the pan. It's a Fel-Pro gasket. Anyone think I should try it out?

Shadofax
02-07-2009, 08:14 PM
Why not? I think my truck came with a cork from the factory, but I've used the rubber guys a couple times now, no issue.

Just remember one thing, do NOT try to overtighten the bolts, they strip out very easy. put it on once you've totally cleaned the surfaces, and do the crisscross tighten down carefully. And once you have them decently tight, fill it and test drive it when ready and then go back and just check the bolts again to make sure everything is equally torqued.

Rebelracer_NC
02-07-2009, 09:21 PM
Thanks for the advice, makes me feel better about using the rubber gasket.

RTFLDGR
02-09-2009, 08:55 PM
My brother & I have been rebuilding Ford auto trannies for 20+ years. We rebuild the C4, C6, FMX, AOD & E4OD. We always put the good stuff in them, because it's a pain in the arse pulling trannies.

As you all know, the E4OD has some necessary upgrades to make it tough. When it comes to the clutches & steels, we use the Alto Red clutches and Koleen steels. You all can comment on the Blue Plate cluthes, but they DON'T HOLD UP. I miss the brass clutches of the Cruise O Matic days. The old green clutches with brass bits did a good job too, but tough to find.

The e4Ods are HEAVY and made well. Lots of clutch packs. Lots of band surface. Lots of potential. They are alot more work to rebuild than a c6. They are ALOT more expensive to rebuild the RIGHT way. It's worth it. We are getting ready to install a Baummann Controls kit on a carbed-out 94 351. We'll let you know how that goes.

The type F tranny fluid works fine and works good. We believe it to be a better tranny oil than Dexron or Mercon for the rebuilds. We always run type F on our e4ODs. There has never been a problem. It's one thing for engineers to tell us what to run this and that. Does the engineer tear down and rebuild trannies? What you see inside is what you see. Type F works good.

RTFLDGR

(Hint: If you build a stout E4OD, don't reuse the stock torque converter. You will rip it out. Upgrade to hardened spline torque converters, or you WILL pull the tranny again to replace the stripped-out stock torque converter.)

(another hint: Don't hold 2nd coming down the mountains in the 4-Corners of Colorado & New Mexico. You will hand-grenade your stock planetary set. <grinning> The bearing-carrier will hate you too. Burn up the brakes. They are cheaper and easier to replace.)

NotOJuice
02-09-2009, 09:00 PM
My brother & I have been rebuilding Ford auto trannies for 20+ years. We rebuild the C4, C6, FMX, AOD & E4OD. We always put the good stuff in them, because it's a pain in the arse pulling trannies.

As you all know, the E4OD has some necessary upgrades to make it tough. When it comes to the clutches & steels, we use the Alto Red clutches and Koleen steels. You all can comment on the Blue Plate cluthes, but they DON'T HOLD UP. I miss the brass clutches of the Cruise O Matic days. The old green clutches with brass bits did a good job too, but tought to find.

The e4Ods are HEAVY and made well. Lots of clutch packs. Lots of band surface. Lot's of potential. They are alot more work to rebuild than a c6. It's worth it. We are getting ready to install a Baummann Controls kit on a carbed-out 94 351. We'll let you know how that goes.

The type F tranny fluid works fine and works good. We believe it to be a better tranny oil than Dexron or Mercon for the rebuilds. We always run Type F on our e4ODs. There has never been a problem. It's one thing for engineers to tell us what to run this and that. Does the engineer tear down and rebuild trannies? What you see inside is what you see. Type F works good.

RTFLDGR

(Hint: If you build a stout E4OD, don't reuse the stock torque converter. You will rip it out. Upgrade to hardened spline torque converters, or you WILL pull the tranny again to replace the stripped-out stock torque converter.)

(another hint: Don't hold 2nd coming down the moutains in the 4-Corners of Colorado & New Mexico. You will hand-grenade your stock planetary set. <grinning> The bearing-carrier will hate you too. Burn up the brakes. They are cheaper and easier to replace.)


i got a 12er with your name on it if you rebuild mine!

Shadofax
02-09-2009, 09:33 PM
My brother & I have been rebuilding Ford auto trannies for 20+ years. We rebuild the C4, C6, FMX, AOD & E4OD. We always put the good stuff in them, because it's a pain in the arse pulling trannies.

As you all know, the E4OD has some necessary upgrades to make it tough. When it comes to the clutches & steels, we use the Alto Red clutches and Koleen steels. You all can comment on the Blue Plate cluthes, but they DON'T HOLD UP. I miss the brass clutches of the Cruise O Matic days. The old green clutches with brass bits did a good job too, but tough to find.

The e4Ods are HEAVY and made well. Lots of clutch packs. Lots of band surface. Lots of potential. They are alot more work to rebuild than a c6. They are ALOT more expensive to rebuild the RIGHT way. It's worth it. We are getting ready to install a Baummann Controls kit on a carbed-out 94 351. We'll let you know how that goes.

The type F tranny fluid works fine and works good. We believe it to be a better tranny oil than Dexron or Mercon for the rebuilds. We always run type F on our e4ODs. There has never been a problem. It's one thing for engineers to tell us what to run this and that. Does the engineer tear down and rebuild trannies? What you see inside is what you see. Type F works good.

RTFLDGR

(Hint: If you build a stout E4OD, don't reuse the stock torque converter. You will rip it out. Upgrade to hardened spline torque converters, or you WILL pull the tranny again to replace the stripped-out stock torque converter.)

(another hint: Don't hold 2nd coming down the mountains in the 4-Corners of Colorado & New Mexico. You will hand-grenade your stock planetary set. <grinning> The bearing-carrier will hate you too. Burn up the brakes. They are cheaper and easier to replace.)

Good info. Too bad you aren't closer. Did you once live here since you seem to know something about the very long and steep grades the rockies have? If so, any recommendations on good local denver tranny shops??

Also, any interest in doing a tech writeup on an E4OD tranny (or likely anyone would love to hear what you had to say on a C6 build or AOD)? Since this is a bronco forum, I for one am not real interested in building a super tow tranny (like an E4OD for a 1 ton that tows up/down the mountains all time), unless that is also consistent with a good, strong, reliable daily driver-off road application??? I just do not have the knowledge to know what areas internally I should focus on to make it reliable and strong long term, some minor towing, mountain grades, etc. I've got 137k on my E4OD and when the time comes to rebuild I want this tranny redone right so I don't have to worry about it. It does not have to have all the goodies for towing, it just needs to be rebuilt reliable for the bronco (uses stated above). Stock so far this tranny has been very reliable for me with the strock tranny cooler and supercooling package, '95 E4OD.

RTFLDGR
02-09-2009, 10:02 PM
I am new to FSB. I figured you all already had hard-core tranny guys online here. Let's rip through what needs to be done to an E4OD. It's expensive, and worth it. The E4OD we built up after I grenaded mine rolling into Siverton, CO has worked flawlessly. It's got every trick we could pay for in the build. good clutches & steels, good bands, seal kit, upgrade solonoid pack, upgrade bearing carrier, 6-pack planetary set, shift kit. The hot set up nowadays is the computer controls programming that can be done with your laptop. Amazing. I dig it, even for an old guy. If you rip the fuel injection and go back to carb, the Baummann controls are a must. The E4OD is a bigger, more complex tranny than a C6. We've seen the E4OD pull a cable truck loaded down, with guys, and a huge bucket and trailer. Amazing. But that is one heavy tranny to move around.

Isn't there a reliable builder online here at FSB for these trannies? (I sense a niche...)

RTFLDGR

RTFLDGR
02-09-2009, 10:09 PM
Next E4OD we rebuild full-tilt, we will camera to dig. Happy to show every step. We are gonna be hardcore building a C6 soon. We'll digitize that one too.

For anyone who's done it, you know, it's that LAST drop in the clutch pack that is go or no go.

RTFLDGR

silent one
02-09-2009, 10:23 PM
I have asked this question before but i would like to hear from someone who builds them.

Is there anything i should worry about when changing the fluid on an e4od that has 116xxx on it. I don't know if the fluid was ever changed but i want to do it soon. I do not have any problems with it now.

Shadofax
02-09-2009, 10:31 PM
Next E4OD we rebuild full-tilt, we will camera to dig. Happy to show every step. We are gonna be hardcore building a C6 soon. We'll digitize that one too.

For anyone who's done it, you know, it's that LAST drop in the clutch pack that is go or no go.

RTFLDGR

1) no there is not really as far as FSB site tranny builders. A few folks here have rebuilt their's, and they've suggested I could do it as well (did manage to rebuild the very simple 1356 BW transfer case). Yes, there are on line places you can ship your rebuildable unit and they will send you one back. I'd prefer not to do that. I want the unit that is in my truck since I know it's exact history, and I'd like it done locally so I can talk to someone face to face with some of my ideas for rebuild, supplied by folks like you (I'd possibly be talking to you face to face if you were local). I'm ok spending $$ on a rebuild if someone is willing to back up their work. My no. 1 thing is reliability, it has to last, and it has to do so without issue. I'm not all that hard on trannies though.

2) I'd love to see an E4OD rebuild of yours with pics; again if it's meant for a bronco/wheeling application vs. serious towing, if there is a need for different internal parts to accomodate. You won't find many broncos needing to tow 13k+ lbs of trailer.

Need4racin
02-09-2009, 10:58 PM
A member on here said he rebuilt his e4od back in 2005-ish? to the hilt following this guide.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0405_1992_ford_f150_transmission_rebuild/index.html

RTFL, what do you think about all the parts mentioned in this write up?

RTFLDGR
02-10-2009, 09:00 AM
Here's what I see on this thread: Look at the tranny fluid pouring out of the pan. It's burnt. That means this tranny is about lunch. Burnt clutches and slipping bands caused that brown\red color in the tranny fluid. Even though this tranny will still run & shift, it's toast in my book. (respectfully submitted)

My opinion only: When you rebuild an E4OD, don't do it half-way. It's such a pain in the arse to drop, tear-down and rebuild, that you want to do it right the first time, and get 10-20 years out of the tranny after rebuild. I expect this from my trannies. I've got a C4 in a 68 coupe that I built 13 years ago. It still gets 2nd gear scrath at will and 3rd gear bark when I'm hammering it. I've driven it HARD all it's life and it still works perfectly. I expect the same from my current E4oD in my own truck.

The must-haves for an E4oD are clutches & steels, bearing carrier, improved solonoids, larger planetary sets, best quality bands, shift kit, deep pan, extra cooler, the BEST torque converter. Heavy Bronco or heavy towing, it really doesn't matter. Any Bronco on this board is gonna see hard core use. Build the best tranny for it.

RTFLDGR

RTFLDGR
02-11-2009, 09:20 AM
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/index.htm

Here's a link to the E4OD build up using good parts.

Always drain the torque converter. Always. Don't leave contaminated oil in your TC. Burnt oil is doing your tranny no good. Why mix it with good tranny fluid?

I didn't mention the hardened imput shaft last time. That goes in the good build.

4-wheeling is more strenuous on the tranny than towing, in my opinion. So, any build for us Bronco guys needs to be hardcore. IF you have the E4OD out, why not rebuild it with the best parts? Why not? Stock rebuilds are for your wife's explorer.

Shadofax
02-11-2009, 09:48 AM
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/index.htm

Here's a link to the E4OD build up using good parts.

Always drain the torque converter. Always. Don't leave contaminated oil in your TC. Burnt oil is doing your tranny no good. Why mix it with good tranny fluid?

I didn't mention the hardened imput shaft last time. That goes in the good build.

4-wheeling is more strenuous on the tranny than towing, in my opinion. So, any build for us Bronco guys needs to be hardcore. IF you have the E4OD out, why not rebuild it with the best parts? Why not? Stock rebuilds are for your wife's explorer.

I've seen that writeup. I printed out a writeup from fourwheeler that mentioned/listed the upgraded parts so you would know what to ask for when going looking for the parts. Performance automatic or something like that sells a ton of upgraded parts for builds as well.

I was just under my truck the other day and it appears I've developed a little leak from the manual shift lever seal.

sewiv
02-11-2009, 11:07 AM
Here's what I see on this thread: Look at the tranny fluid pouring out of the pan. It's burnt. That means this tranny is about lunch. Burnt clutches and slipping bands caused that brown\red color in the tranny fluid. Even though this tranny will still run & shift, it's toast in my book. (respectfully submitted)

No problems from me hearing a professional's opinion. That fluid is red going in, though, and I don't recall it being as dark in real life (the pictures look darker than I remember it being coming out). If it is toast, I've got another one to rebuild and replace it with.

Great info, RTFLDGR. Keep it up.

RTFLDGR
02-12-2009, 11:05 AM
<humbly bowing>

Anytime Sandy. We are here to help, and dispell some of the myths around motors & trannies.

RTFLDGR

jmorriss
02-12-2009, 12:20 PM
What is the procedure for draining the torque converter on a transmission that is lacking a train plug? Is it acceptable to leave the vehicle running in park until all fluid has been pumped out? I have seen this posted and said elsewhere. Something I want to be sure of before I potentially smoke the tranny in the GF's Taurus...

79BlueMule
02-12-2009, 10:37 PM
What is the procedure for draining the torque converter on a transmission that is lacking a train plug? Is it acceptable to leave the vehicle running in park until all fluid has been pumped out? I have seen this posted and said elsewhere. Something I want to be sure of before I potentially smoke the tranny in the GF's Taurus...

you don't have to drain the TC. and don't leave it running you'll trash bushings and make metal everywhere in the trans. are you trying to pump the fluid out of the cooler lines?

jmorriss
02-12-2009, 10:39 PM
you don't have to drain the TC. and don't leave it running you'll trash bushings and make metal everywhere in the trans. are you trying to pump the fluid out of the cooler lines?

Well yea, thats why it didn't make sense to me either. And yes the concept would be unhook one of the cooler lines.

79BlueMule
02-12-2009, 10:48 PM
to drain the trans just drop the pan. unless you're using a fluid exchanger then it wont work trying to use the cooler lines

jmorriss
02-12-2009, 11:10 PM
So there is no (short of pulling it) way to get the fluid out of the TC

79BlueMule
02-12-2009, 11:21 PM
nope not unless you take it somewhere that has a fluid exchanger. but they can do more damage than good most of the time

jmorriss
02-12-2009, 11:49 PM
nope not unless you take it somewhere that has a fluid exchanger. but they can do more damage than good most of the time

Yea, alot of good it does to mix all the sh*t together. O well, I'll hope for the best then-I just know those Taurus transmissions are touchy and really need full service @ 30k. Guess I could see if there is a place to cram a remote filter somewhere.

kemicalburns
04-15-2009, 12:27 PM
i did my fluid/filter change last night. I used that same filter with the tin metal bottom and the strait tube. the kit also came with a rubber gasket vs the cork. Now i think i might have over filled the tranny a bit. i didnt see that if you dont drain the TC that the system only olds 6-7qrts so i had added probably 8 quarts i think. I drove it about 6 miles total this morning and the shifting and such has improved. the old fluid wasnt burnt or anything which was great. I used the cheveron MD-III tranny fluid that costco sells. it said it was for FORD trucks, anyone use this type before?

I am really looking forward to someone doing the TransGo shift kit install also. I bought the kit and almost attempted to install last night but it got dark and was blowing snow not to mention i am going on a trip with the bronco pulling our rv so i didnt want to mess something up.

Need4racin
04-15-2009, 02:33 PM
As long as it will work with mercon or mercon V.

kemicalburns
04-15-2009, 04:41 PM
which i am pretty positive it is and said Mercon on the box/quart

broncoflorida
04-15-2009, 06:41 PM
RTFLDGR , what's your opinion on ATF fluids in the C6 and AOD/AODEs for the longest life?

Also do you reccommend any ATF additives or the use of seafoam ( tranny ) before ATF change?

Alvin in AZ
08-03-2009, 01:10 AM
why not just drill the hole first and not screw around with all the mess?
...come back, take the pan off thats almost totally empty and then drill
the final 1/2" hole for your drain plug.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a155/rippedhaus/bronco/CIMG1895.jpg
For sure! :)
And thanks for the picture, Not. :)

There's more than one way to put a hole in it, that doesn't involve a drill.
(in another thread that was a concern;)

Headin' out right now to make a hole in the sorry E4OD I'm pulling just to
get rid of it. YMMV on your love or hate of automatics. LOL ;)

Alvin's puttin' in a "granny ZF" in AZ
ps- whoever buys my old E4OD will have to put in a drain plug. LOL :)

happylogan1
08-29-2009, 01:25 PM
96XLT 351 5.8L tow package

I asked the shop to change the transmission fluid. I provided 19qts of ATF: 4 one gallon jugs and 3 loose qts and the filter/gasket kit. When competed only about 3/4 of a gallon of fluid was used (about 3+qts) with the install of the provided parts.

So, F* it, I'll do the job. I have about 15qts remaining. The last complete ATF change was 100k ago

What is remaining for the ATF change? Simply draining the torque converter? Where is the rest of the ATF to be drained coming from?
My understading is the TC will drain out about what 7-10qts plus the 3 in the pan that 10-13.

What am I missing ?

Shadofax
08-29-2009, 09:22 PM
96XLT 351 5.8L tow package

I asked the shop to change the transmission fluid. I provided 19qts of ATF: 4 one gallon jugs and 3 loose qts and the filter/gasket kit. When competed only about 3/4 of a gallon of fluid was used (about 3+qts) with the install of the provided parts.

So, F* it, I'll do the job. I have about 15qts remaining. The last complete ATF change was 100k ago

What is remaining for the ATF change? Simply draining the torque converter? Where is the rest of the ATF to be drained coming from?
My understading is the TC will drain out about what 7-10qts plus the 3 in the pan that 10-13.

What am I missing ?

I usually don't do my TC, and I need not quite 8 qts for refill when done. So the TC I'd say holds about 7 qts. and then around 1 more quart in the lines to the tranny cooler and the cooler upfront.

happylogan1
08-29-2009, 09:30 PM
Ok- I've never done the TC: so- I bought Redline ATF- not cheap so, I need to use it...

Hefty
08-30-2009, 12:59 AM
Mark is right the E4od will hold right at 16-17 quarts. The TC will hold about 7. Tranny about 8.5. and the cooler will hold 1ish. I don't know how to drain the TC without dropping the whole tranny. The pan only holds about 3 so if you idle the truck it will drain the rest out of the tranny. Just dont put in the fluid and throw it into gear let it idle to circulate the fluid for a couple of minutes.

Shadofax
08-30-2009, 10:28 AM
there is a bolt in the TC. line that up with the bottom rubber plug in the bellhousing and loosen the bolt, at least that's what I'm told.

Hefty
08-30-2009, 11:05 AM
Ah. Didn't even think about that. How many quarts does the t case hold?

Shadofax
08-30-2009, 11:24 AM
not much, around 2 as I recall, until you get it to the bottom of the fill plug.

matrdefndr
12-07-2009, 11:27 PM
Did the fluid change with a stay put clip this weekend. I don't have pictures, since my camera has run off to parts unknown. I did want to add a couple tidbits of information on here you guys might find useful.

1) Superior Transmission (http://www.superior-transmission.com/) has upgraded their website recently. They now list distributors of their parts on their website. The distributor I purchased from was called Transstar. (looks like their locations are splattered over the map) Clips came two to a box for about $15. They had a local location, so no shipping costs.

2) In the process of doing the internal filter kit, I added an external transmission filter. This baby. (http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=49) Zero cutting and splicing, all you need to do is remove the flare nut on the return line, drill a couple holes and screw everything together. I called Dieselsite.com to make sure it would work with the gas version of the E4OD. Hey, you never know... They said it was no problem, just made sure to have me verify the line diameters.

Note: the displayed (on their product site) pressure gauge is optional, if you're ordering, make sure to buy the gauge as well. I was a dumbass, didn't read the fine print and now I have to order one after Christmas.

That picture doesn't do the filter justice either, it's HUGE.

swifty63087
12-27-2009, 11:14 PM
after reading all 5 pages, great write up and information. I was wondering a few things, First off where did you get the larger pan at with the drain plug on the bottom. And i was trying to find a site to order a new filter/seal and those clips that were mentioned on here but i dont know which one to get cause there are so many different ones. also how do you know if you have the c6 or the e4od

justin
12-28-2009, 11:04 AM
after reading all 5 pages, great write up and information. I was wondering a few things, First off where did you get the larger pan at with the drain plug on the bottom. And i was trying to find a site to order a new filter/seal and those clips that were mentioned on here but i dont know which one to get cause there are so many different ones. also how do you know if you have the c6 or the e4od

No, you didn't read the thread.

He gave you a link for the filter clip, part # for the pan gasket/filter kit, and a Ford part # for the pan w/ drain plug (which is actually a 4R100 pan).

You can identify your trans by the shape of the pan. C6 doesn't have OD, E4OD does. Yours being a 93 means that you have an E4OD

92builtbronco
12-28-2009, 12:31 PM
after reading all 5 pages, great write up and information. I was wondering a few things, First off where did you get the larger pan at with the drain plug on the bottom. And i was trying to find a site to order a new filter/seal and those clips that were mentioned on here but i dont know which one to get cause there are so many different ones. also how do you know if you have the c6 or the e4od

No, you didn't read the thread.

He gave you a link for the filter clip, part # for the pan gasket/filter kit, and a Ford part # for the pan w/ drain plug (which is actually a 4R100 pan).

You can identify your trans by the shape of the pan. C6 doesn't have OD, E4OD does. Yours being a 93 means that you have an E4OD

oh snap! :histerica

StaffAmerica74
01-29-2010, 03:29 PM
I read through this whole thing and am still wondering if its a good idea to go Mercon V I heard that will help with torque converter shudder.... which my bronco is starting to develop.

Shane C.
01-29-2010, 07:28 PM
I read through this whole thing and am still wondering if its a good idea to go Mercon V I heard that will help with torque converter shudder.... which my bronco is starting to develop.

FYI - For future questions, there is a search function at the top of the page that allows you to search for the info you seek and read other threads on the topic. Also, you may want to update you user info with your Bronco specs so we have a better idea what we are talking about.

The E4ODs were originally manufactured to work on Dexron III, so thats what I am comfortable running in mine. Mercon replaced Dexron III and Ford approved using that in the E4OD. Then, Mercon V replaced Mercon and Ford approved that for use as well.

Read this TSB and it has the info you seek...

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1180823#post1180823

I dont know of any benefits Merc V has over the others, but if you change your fluid out and it does help the shudder, let us know.

black_betty
03-15-2010, 11:46 PM
:popc1:
.
. im just studing.. KEEP THE INFO COMING

jjlkpeterson
09-14-2010, 09:05 PM
I am going to change the fluid this weekend, but wanted to verify the motorcraft part number. The info here says to use the Motorcraft FT-114 (4x4) instead of the FT-113 (2WD). When going to the Ford Online Parts website, a part search comes up with FT-113.

Just curious as to why the ford website shows a different number?

Mike310
11-05-2010, 12:47 AM
Just did this fluid change today. I was able to drain the torque converter, cooler and complete trans. I ended up draining out 15 quarts of fluid. I noticed that trans temps was running hotter then usual the last week or so, gave the fluid a smell and sure enough it was burnt, sweet, and brown. I use the DEX MERC 3 and now shes shifting like a dream and I'm reading 140 degrees at my trans cooler temp as normal. I'll monitor on how it does throughout the week. My E4od has 161k miles on it and seems to be going strong, daily driven.

Thanks again for the post! a huge help for us not so auto tech dudes!

d4klutz
11-05-2010, 11:45 AM
Mike310,

How did you drain the TC? Is there really a bolt in it? I dont know much about TCs as I always had manual transmissions (I prefer them). Im using TC to mean torque converter, not transfer case :D

3speed
12-11-2010, 02:28 PM
I just serviced my E4OD. I drained the converter and the pan. Got 14 quarts on the nose out of it. I installed the newer 4R100 pan (with drain) and a Motorcraft filter. Got those at my dealership. I also used the 4R100 rubber re-usable gasket made for that pan. To my knowledge the filter for the 4x4 Bronco E4OD is the same as the 4R100 filter...say found in a later model F-SuperDuty. I was told the filter clip was unnecessary as the 4R100 pan has dimples in it that go up near or against the filter keeping from falling out. Dealership said there was no way the filter could fall out with this pan.

I got my Mercon fluid at Napa. I used their Premium Performance fluid and got it for $2.80/quart which I thought was a great deal. Its made by Ashland...aka:Valvoline. Valvoline Dex/Merc was about $3.90/quart at Walmart. MaxLife was well over $5/quart. Mobil Syn Trans was $8 and Royal Purple Syn was $17/quart. YIKES!!!!

On that remote filter setup (which I didn't do...yet)...wouldn't an actual hydraulic filter without any kind of silicon drainback valve in it be best? I know you can get the equivalent size and thread of the FL1A in a hydraulic filter. I used to use a dual setup like this for an Allison MT643.

RickyB
12-11-2010, 04:52 PM
I was gonna get the remote filter system for my daughter's truck, but now I'm getting two of these for both of our Broncos instead. Supposedly this guy made them for the Ford TSB that came out years ago. $16.00 a pop..............



http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/installation_page.htm

Iolaus
12-11-2010, 05:21 PM
I was gonna get the remote filter system for my daughter's truck, but now I'm getting two of these for both of our Broncos instead. Supposedly this guy made them for the Ford TSB that came out years ago. $16.00 a pop..............



http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/installation_page.htm

I already have a remote filter set-up on the out-bound cooling line, but I could see putting that into the return line anyway - for additional insurance.

rocknrod
12-18-2010, 10:51 AM
Thanks for this write-up.

yositoco
02-23-2011, 03:03 PM
remembering this thread for when i do mine

GMAN
04-18-2011, 01:52 PM
Thanx , you just gave me the next thing on my to do list!!!!!!!

kulprit
06-12-2011, 01:38 AM
Thanks for the write up, did mine saturday and it helped me out alot doing it the first time :beer

Big RIck
09-09-2011, 10:45 PM
Question about the clips for the filter. Why not just use some safety wire wrapped around a couple bolts under the head? Seems to me like you could undo the same bolt for that clip, and a similar one on the other side and run a bit of safety wire from one to the other underneath the filter. It should hold up the filter as well...if not better...than the clip. And it would only cost a few cents in safety wire rather than almost $20 for a pair of clips.

Thoughts?

Shadofax
09-09-2011, 10:53 PM
Question about the clips for the filter. Why not just use some safety wire wrapped around a couple bolts under the head? Seems to me like you could undo the same bolt for that clip, and a similar one on the other side and run a bit of safety wire from one to the other underneath the filter. It should hold up the filter as well...if not better...than the clip. And it would only cost a few cents in safety wire rather than almost $20 for a pair of clips.

Thoughts?

I would not want to have to undo the bolts each time I wanted to remove the filter.

There is only 1 clip you get, I didn't pay $20, maybe 8-9? And I assume it's stainless steel. Removing the filter does not require me to mess with that little bolt I had to undo to install this clip. I put a touch of locktite on that bolt just to make sure it would not come loose at some future date.

If you had some thin stainless sheet laying around you could probably make this clip though. All it does is hold up 1 side/back going away from where the throat of the filter is pushed up into the tranny.

Big RIck
09-09-2011, 11:02 PM
Good call on having to redo it all the time. What if it is near the end of the filter and there is enough slack that you can slide it up past the side of the filter to change it and twist it up to tighten it and take up the slack and hold the filter?

Or am I just being way too cheap and need to stop trying to be a redneck non-engineer? lol

Shadofax
09-09-2011, 11:22 PM
Good call on having to redo it all the time. What if it is near the end of the filter and there is enough slack that you can slide it up past the side of the filter to change it and twist it up to tighten it and take up the slack and hold the filter?

Or am I just being way too cheap and need to stop trying to be a redneck non-engineer? lol

:beer

justin
09-10-2011, 10:23 AM
Or you can upgrade to the 4R100 pan that has dimples in the pan to hold the filter into place. Eliminates the need for the filter clip and gives you a drain plug.

Its been some years since I bought mine, but it was less than $40 from the ford dealer at the time.

Big RIck
09-11-2011, 09:44 PM
Or you can upgrade to the 4R100 pan that has dimples in the pan to hold the filter into place. Eliminates the need for the filter clip and gives you a drain plug.

Its been some years since I bought mine, but it was less than $40 from the ford dealer at the time.

I looked at replacement pans...$150+.

Shadofax
09-11-2011, 10:07 PM
I looked at replacement pans...$150+.

no, the 4r pan can be had at the ford dealer for about $50 these days as I recall. I have one on mine. Also buy the gasket, and this guys is expensive because it's nice, and reusaable, about $37. I still run the clip with this pan though. Just want to make sure that filter is not falling.

Nathanizer
09-12-2011, 12:55 PM
I would not want to have to undo the bolts each time I wanted to remove the filter.

There is only 1 clip you get, I didn't pay $20, maybe 8-9? And I assume it's stainless steel. Removing the filter does not require me to mess with that little bolt I had to undo to install this clip. I put a touch of locktite on that bolt just to make sure it would not come loose at some future date.

If you had some thin stainless sheet laying around you could probably make this clip though. All it does is hold up 1 side/back going away from where the throat of the filter is pushed up into the tranny.


Hey I have a quick question, I just serviced my tranny yesterday in my 92 and I installed the filter clip. My question is... How tight is that little 8mm bolt supposed to be after installing the filter clip? I did not use locktite. None of the 8mm bolts on the shift pack seemed to be very tight IMO. I only check a few of them and they all lossened up very easily. are they all only supposed to be tightened up that little bit? (Maybe a 1/4 turn tight)

Shadofax
09-12-2011, 01:12 PM
Hey I have a quick question, I just serviced my tranny yesterday in my 92 and I installed the filter clip. My question is... How tight is that little 8mm bolt supposed to be after installing the filter clip? I did not use locktite. None of the 8mm bolts on the shift pack seemed to be very tight IMO. I only check a few of them and they all lossened up very easily. are they all only supposed to be tightened up that little bit? (Maybe a 1/4 turn tight)

it's only a small 8mm, so the torque on it isn't much, maybe 10-12 ft lb? It's going into aliminum as well so I certainly didn't want to go overtightening, which is why I used a dab of the locktite blue.

justin
09-12-2011, 03:39 PM
I looked at replacement pans...$150+.

Sewiv has a part number at the beginning of this thread for the 4R100 pan. Take it to your ford counter jockey and I'd be shocked it if was over $60 out the door.

Nathanizer
09-12-2011, 06:27 PM
it's only a small 8mm, so the torque on it isn't much, maybe 10-12 ft lb? It's going into aliminum as well so I certainly didn't want to go overtightening, which is why I used a dab of the locktite blue.


My thoughts too, thanks :)

75F350
04-16-2012, 10:21 PM
You guys can make your own clips for a few cents:

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm34/75F350/063.jpg

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm34/75F350/062.jpg

This is a must if you run a deep pan. The 4R pan is an option, but its still stock. Not bad, and has advantages, but not fluid volume. For a few dimes, the above stainless steel will solve all of the issues.
FWIW, we also run the trans fluid about 1 qt over full. We can stand broncos on the bumper without losing fluid to the pump.

bigbeardbiii
03-30-2014, 05:48 PM
Sandy,
Excellent posts here. I have posted this on another thread but posting again here, hoping I get some sound advice from one or the other. I removed all lines & hoses from my leaking rad, removed the thermo from it's housing & flushed w/H2O until only H2O coming out lower rad hose, removed right, otuer most heater core hose & flushed H2O until clear out lower rad hose (reverse flushed). I then put in a new Vista Pro rad in Bronco and replaced thermo & hoses, etc.. & put rad fluid in w/new cap. Cranked & began having pink milkshake fluid in overflow tank. Immediately turned off & opened rad cap to find a crack next to upper tranny fitting. Drained & did same flush procedure. Then drained torque converter & dropped tranny pan (night mare!). I took the advice & ordered a bracket for the tranny filter & have received a new upgraded Vista Pro rad w/max cool, new tranny filter & gasket & am now thinking of buying a tranny pan drain plug & installing it before assembling. My question is, is there anywhere else or a different procedure you would recommend to drain or flush w/H2O before putting everything back together? I thought about removing tranny lines from tranny & blowing them out w/50 psi air pressure but I don't know if there's enough in there to matter/ Thanks

bigbeardbiii
04-02-2014, 10:23 AM
The Dorman tranny plug came w/2 crush washers. The examples of the drain plugs I've seen given on posts only have one. So, is the 2nd one an extra or should I put one inside & one outside? If only going w/one which side should it go on? Also, if I weld it do I then not use either of the crush plastic washers?
I installed it yesterday and put Locktite Blue on the bolt thread before putting on the inside crush washer and nut & tightening down & it will have set for 24 hrs. (as recommended by Permatex this evening). So, I was planning on putting it in tonight & adding the fluid but if you think I need to weld it, I will (?). I would think that by using both of the plastic crush washers, one on each side of the pan, that surely it doesn't need to be welded too. Any thoughts?

allcruisen
04-02-2014, 11:58 PM
bigbear, I have done this to a few of my transmission's and have always used the two Plastic washers, One on the inside and one on the outside...

Good luck and hope you don't have any leaks,
Allcruisen :imp :usa

bigbeardbiii
04-03-2014, 12:22 AM
Allcruisin',
Thanks for your response. I got new: filter, brace, gasket, pan w/newly installed drain pan, & all 20 bolts in this evening. Tomorrow I will fill,& check for leaks!

bigbeardbiii
04-03-2014, 10:23 AM
I dropped pan, cleaned it thoroughly, put in new filter w/aftermarket clip to hold in place, new synthetic gasket, & aftermarket drain plug. When tightening the 20 10mm bolts I got my torque wrench on them (you know how tough it is to see the torque meter line to get it to 10-14 lbs. per ft. w/out Bronc being on a rack?!!!!! Anyway, I got them to where it appear to be as close to 10 lbs. per ft. as I could possibly see to do. I mean after me being under vehicle & then having the torque wrench connected it literally left several inches between me & it so trying to correctly read it was difficult! Anyway, once getting them all tightening, going in a diagonal pattern, it still appears that it squeezed the gasket out of the edge of the pan probably an 1/8" all way round. The amount of gasket squeezed out seems to be same all way round as well. My question is, since it squeezed gasket out at all, does that mean the bolts are too tight? I read a post from "Sandy" I believed that stated if gasket is squeezed out then they are too tight (I just didn't know if 1/8" is too much)? After the issues I've had I don't want to fill up this afternoon & then have the gasket situation to be another issue that I have to deal with!

bigbeardbiii
04-09-2014, 11:24 PM
I just drained my torque converter, dropped my tranny pan and installed new filter, clip, & filled with 12 quarts of tranny fluid. I shifted through all gears, leaving it in each gear for 20 seconds. Then, drove it for 15-20 minutes through town & it shifted and ran fine. Got back home, put in neutral, pulled the dipstick & spent 20 minutes trying to determine where the tranny fluid level was at. It is glossy up past the crosshatches but the only real "red" is liquid is in the bubble hook on the bottom & up to the bottom hole. My question is, if the fluid is up above a hole will the hole be filled up (closed) with fluid? Or, does the top of the glossing (translucent) of the dipstick mean that's where the fluid is? I know that I do NOT want to overfill it!!!!!

Shadofax
04-09-2014, 11:39 PM
Try again putting it in park after the usual warm up. It should not be difficult to see where the fluid is at on the dip. I've never used neutral to check level.

bigbeardbiii
04-10-2014, 10:05 AM
Thank you Shadofax. I will do so.

rastamole
04-28-2014, 05:19 PM
So I just wanted to jump on here and thank you for the write-up. My 91' bronco thanks you very much also. Everything went just fine and no leaks yet! Keep the forums alive everyone. tyvm

rastamole
04-28-2014, 05:20 PM
Oh ya I bought the Drain Plug from Jegs since it had a metal washer instead of the crushable ones. Did the filter clip also.