1. Chock the wheels, jack up the front, remove the tires and support it with SAFE jackstands.
2. Remove the calipers (C-clamp to compress the pistons in the caliper, use a hammer and screwdriver to tap out the clips that hold the caliper in place.)
NOTE: if you’re already lost, stop here. Put it all back together and take it to a competent shop.
3. Remove the hubs. My hub write up. (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5450)
4. Remove the spindle nut. Instructions can be found in Big Mikes wheel bearing write up. (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1816) (The spindles on my 89 use a single combination spindle nut/bearing adjuster. SEE PICS BELOW:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106209&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070017.JPG
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106210&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070018.JPG
*The 4 prong spanner socket for the spindle nut:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106211&toggle=fullsize&f=p2070019.jpg
5. With the rotor and wheel bearings removed, the next step is to remove the spindle. Remove the 5 or 6 bolts holding on the spindle, and pull it off. (It may need some gentle tapping to break it free.)
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106145&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070006.JPG
6. With the spindles off the axle shafts slide right out. On the passenger side, you will need to undo the clamps holding the slip-shaft dust cover on; if you don’t you will have a very hard time pulling the shaft out.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106144&toggle=fullsize&f=P2060003.JPG
7. Now that the axle shafts are out, undo the bolts holding the drive shaft onto the pinion yoke. Also, pull the front diff breather off.
8. At this point, all that is holding on the 3rd member is the front cover bolts and the 2 bolts that attach from the side. Undo the bolts on the side first:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106147&toggle=fullsize&f=P2060004.JPG
9. Now start removing the front cover bolts, starting with the bottom ones. Leaving the top 2 attached but loose will allow you to drain the housing before taking it off.
10. Once it’s drained, remove the last bolts holding it on. Careful, its pretty heavy. I just let mine drop since I will never be using it again, but you may want to place some rug or similar soft item underneath it to break the impact.
11. Scrape off all the old silicone gasket and use silicone gasket maker to form a new gasket.
12. You are all ready to attach this:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106146&toggle=fullsize&f=P2060005.JPG
13. Installation is basically the reverse of removal. One way to make the install of the 3rd member go easier is to get 2 studs that thread into the cover bolt holes on the 3rd member itself; these will act as a guide and make it much easier to install the bolts. I torqued the cover bolts and side bolts to 60ft/lbs.
If you're doing the c-clip elimination trick or the Dana 50 stub shaft, read the next post.
14. Reinstall the axle shafts, make sure you put the dust cover back over the slip shaft.
15. If your bearings need it, replace or repack them.
16. Torque the spindle bolts to 60ft/lbs
17. Reinstall the rotors, wheel bearings, and spindle nut/bearing adjuster. Torque the spindle nut to 50ft/lbs while spinning the hubs around to seat the bearings. Then back the nut off 90 degrees and retorque to 15-20ft/lbs.
18. Reinstall the hubs, calipers, and tires.
19. Fill the front diff with fluid, should take about 2 quarts. (i used valvoline 80w90)
20. DONE.

Some F-250s and early F-350's came with a Dana 50 TTB. There is no easy way to determine which truck had this, but if it’s a TTB truck with Dana 60 sized hubs, then it has the Dana 50 version of the TTB. The Dana 50 is very similar to a Dana 44; it uses a 9” ring gear as opposed to the 8.5” Dana 44 ring gear and Dana 60 sized hubs and outers (gurus: am i right?), but it still uses the same size/spline inner axle shafts. The advantage in this is that the center u-joint (stub shaft) is much larger on a Dana 50 TTB.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106149&toggle=fullsize&f=P2060002.JPG
The Dana 50 version obviously has larger ears and the u-joint is a drive shaft stlye 1310. (the guy at the yard said 1350, but it didn’t look that big to me :shrug) It also uses full circle retainers as opposed to the c-clips that the 5-297x Spicer joint uses. This method of retention is much more durable.

A major issue with the TTB 3rd member is that it uses a c-clip to retain the axle shaft. The only way to change a shaft in the field is to remove the entire 3rd member, which = messy and time consuming. Where the c-clip attaches on the Dana 50 shaft is thicker than the Dana 44 version and will hit the spider gear cross pin before you can get the c-clip to engage.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106150&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070010.JPG
The common way to fix this problem is a spring in the cup of the slip shaft. (this method is also used for a locked front end, and can be used with a stock Dana 44 stub shaft as well)
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106200&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070013.JPG
The spring will provide pressure, pushing the 2 passenger inner axles apart and keeping the stub shaft secure in the housing. I used a 7/8” compression spring from OSH, cut down to about 2½”. You may have to play around with the length of the spring before you are comfortable. Make sure you install the complete passenger side axle shaft and spindle. This will give you an idea as to how much play the spring allows.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106151&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070011.JPG
Slide the stub shaft into the housing:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106202&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070007.JPG
About this time, if you haven’t already done so, you will want to chop off the stupid nipples on the frame that catch your knuckles:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106203&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070009.JPG
Now, since the Dana 50 ears are larger, you will want to rotate the stub shaft to see if you need to grind the beam down a little for clearance.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106205&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070015.JPG
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106207&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070016.JPG
Mine was fine, so once I got the spring length dialed in i was pretty much done.

FROM HERE, REFER BACK TO STEP 14 OF THE PREVIOUS POST.

Nice writup Andy. :thumbup

Two items, did you tack weld the cup on the of the slipshaft? otherwise your spring will pop it out. I agree you have to play with the proper spring length, I used quite a bit less spring due to the cap pop issue. The spring does not really have to apply any force, it's really just there to make sure the shaft won't back out of the differential, so you really just need enough spring so there is no movement of the axleshaft.

The guy at the Jyard I think is right, not a 1310, but a 1350 as I recall. Would have to go look in spicers books, but the part number for the ujoint is a 799X.

Two items, did you tack weld the cup on the of the slipshaft? otherwise your spring will pop it out.
i'm working on the tack weld thing. probably this weekend.

now tell me that you drilled and tapped a hole in the bottom of the new 3rd member so that draining fluid is a breeze??
:brownbag:

Good shit!

You can also use a valve spring in there. Thats what I used back in the day.

WHY WHY WHY WHY????????? now you cant change the fluid in a flash. you gotta suck it out. which is a bitch and you dont always get it all.
because i really am lazy. doing this writeup has spent all my energy for the next month. i'll probably do it the next time i change fluid, which will probably be after the summer or so.

You can also use a valve spring in there. Thats what I used back in the day.
believe it or not, all the shitty machine shops and junkyards i tried were like "we can order one, but we don't have one here."

i forgot about the spring until the 3rd was going in at like 4:00 saturday afternoon, so i just got the spring from OSH. it was like a dollar, and my friend owed me money anyway, so technically it was free. the D50 stub shaft was free too. the guy at the yard i went to was like, "you can do that? cool, take it" so i was stoked.

believe it or not, all the shitty machine shops and junkyards i tried were like "we can order one, but we don't have one here."

i forgot about the spring until the 3rd was going in at like 4:00 saturday afternoon, so i just got the spring from OSH. it was like a dollar, and my friend owed me money anyway, so technically it was free. the D50 stub shaft was free too. the guy at the yard i went to was like, "you can do that? cool, take it" so i was stoked.

Andy, you don't want a valve spring in there anyway. As Dave said, it was "back in the day" after lots of folks doing this and having lots of trouble with the stupid cap popping, a valve spring is way too loaded. your spring you have is the new ideal. And i can tell you the shop I deal with uses the same spring you showed, same spring I have had no problem with (if cut to proper size) for about a year now. this spring works well because a valve spring is all about pressure in this scenario, when really you just need a bit of push to keep the shaft where it belongs. Remember, the differential will not exert a force pushing the axleshaft out. The ring/pinion move the case splines which contact the axleshaft at a direct angle (i.e. no worm type gear), so the force in the diff does not push the axleshaft out. it can move out on it's own, but not if there is a small amount of resistance.

i know i am stupid, but i still confuzed.....how does the spring stay in between the two axle shafts and waht is the point of doing this...please don't bash to hard, even though it won't matter :cry


The question isn't stupid. maybe a couple pics will help:

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=76140&toggle=fullsize&f=P1010192.JPG

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=76141&toggle=fullsize&f=spring.JPG

OK, first pic just shows the D50 slipshaft back installed under truck. Note the rubber boot. Second pic...where the rubber boot is...there is a joining of the inner D50 shaft, and the passenger long inner splined shaft that goes out to the wheel (and the shortshaft). So , the spring goes into this tube, then you slide that long passenger splined shaft in. So, the spring stays in that axle/yoke tube and provides some push on the D50 slipshaft that goes into the differential, as well as against the shaft that goes on out to the wheel. If you didn't have this spring, the inner D50 slipshaft can back it's way partly or mostly out of the differential. If is loses enough contact spline within the diff. it will strip and likely break, or the shaft will fall out, equally bad.

If you want more pics on just this D50 slipshaft and spring stuff, go here:

http://2bigbroncosnorthwest.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=628&s=13090#content

ya, the basic idea is that you are using the spring to push the 2 axles apart

heres a real simple diagram, the C is the cup where the spring sits in, and the ------ is the passenger side inner shaft

C--------

the spring goes inside the C and pushes on both the C and the -------, keeping the stub shaft from walking out of the housing.

Very good writeup andy! :thumbup
Its appears it actually alot easier to do than i thought!



Oh, on a side note, you can still drill and tap that 3rd member without remvoing it, its just a little harder. I did mine laying on stones in my driveway :brownbag

sp using the spring idea....your getting rid of the c clip and when you install the spring when 4wd is engage it pushes the axles shafts in the front pig? i have a track-lok up front and im still confused on what to do...lol

It doesn't matter what carrier you have up front....track lock, ARB, open, whatever.

If you want to remove the c clip (which HAS to be done for carriers with lockers, but that is another issue), open up the diff and take it out. Now, what is going to hold your passenger side axle inside the diff, since it has a slipshaft out where that boot is? There is nothing to hold that inner shaft in place, so it will work it's way out of the diff and cause you lots of problems. They way to solve this is by putting a spring inside that boot (where the slipshaft is). As Andy mentioned, this puts pressure back on that inner shaft that goes into your diff, so it will not come out.

Just as a side note, inside the diff. (or pig as you say) the axleshaft end has splines that contact the diff. carrier for engagement. This spline contact is not like a worm gear, but rather direct engagement, so the axleshaft is not really pushed out by the diff., so it only takes that spring out inside the boot/slipshaft to keep the spline engagment inside the diff.

i know this thread is kinda old but any way. what are the advantages of going to the 50's 3rd member? accept for the larger U-joint?

No advantage at all to putting in the D50 inner slipshaft, which is just an axleshaft and yoke.

The shaft is 30 spline like the 44, necks down, yada yada. But, where most breakage occurs, if not out at the 19 spline outer short shafts, is right here....that hard to get at inner slipshaft/ujoint/yoke assembly. Not in the axleshaft for the most part, but in the yoke/ujoint. Well, swapping from a 1310 series 760x spicer joint (what, you don't at least have that?) to a 1350 series (799x spicer) joint, and accompanying big yoke and external snap rings (like on a driveshaft), should tell ya why.

External rings are better at retaining the ujoints, probably why they use them in driveshafts.

I believe a link I provided showed the difference here. So now, for me, the plan is to just carry a spare outer 19 spline shaft, 760x joint, and I hopefully have an easier fix. (I do carry my old D44 slipshaft, but doubt that D50 piece will ever break before the outers), see, it makes life much easier in replacing an outer shaft/joint if needed.

i know this thread is kinda old but any way. what are the advantages of going to the 50's 3rd member? accept for the larger U-joint?
There is no advantage of the D50 diff. The advantage comes from the D50 inner slip yoke but that can be used with a D44, no probs.

i didn't use a D50 unit anyway. i got a D44 3rd.

would the d50 3rd bolt up to the d44?

yes, but it uses a different ring and pinion and carrier. theres no point tho, unless you can't find a D44 at all because its not any stronger. the only thing that is better is the stub shaft from the D50 and that will fit in the D44 3rd anyway.

Sorry to revive such an old thread...

Andy, you don't want a valve spring in there anyway. As Dave said, it was "back in the day" after lots of folks doing this and having lots of trouble with the stupid cap popping, a valve spring is way too loaded.

Can someone explain this alittle better about the "stupid cap popping".

If the valve spring is way too loaded, could it be cut down a bit to work better? I'd like to grasp a better understanding on this (plus i have a messload of valve springs in my garage).

Sorry to revive such an old thread...



Can someone explain this alittle better about the "stupid cap popping".

If the valve spring is way too loaded, could it be cut down a bit to work better? I'd like to grasp a better understanding on this (plus i have a messload of valve springs in my garage).

At the end of the slipshaft, the female end has a press fit cap right at the yoke/ujoint. So, when you put a spring in there to lightly load the slipshaft to outer axleshaft, if you use too long a spring, or one with too much tension, it will pop that cap it rests against. You usually lose the spring and cap on the trail at that point. You may not know this has happended until the next time looking under there. You can tack weld the cap.

Don't use a valve spring (yes, they are always cut down). Too stiff. ARB and likely other locker suppliers have a light spring available to cut down. It's about $3 from most small 4x4 shops.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/76141/fullsize/spring.JPG
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/76142/fullsize/P1010187.JPG

Mark, that spring ended up too short for Todds application, so we used a peice of heater hose.

Worked great this last weekend wheelin...just enough pressure on the outer, that it pushes it out to the spindle, and keeps the inner in the diff.

Since we revived this post.
Don't be a dumb chit like me and go thru all the trouble of tapping a hole
for the drain plug, installing the plug, installing the diff, and 2 weeks later
remembering that you forgot to grind a notch out of the TTB to take the plug out



Yeah, I was pissed

?? :shrug Not sure I follow ya.

You drilled a drain hole in the 3rd member, but too far forward? so the TTB stamped piece is in the way?

Want my properly drilled 3rd?

If it comes with the ARB :thumbup

I have another third member if I want to do that.
I just needed to grind the lip back a little.

Bob and I drilled and tapped it without thinking
of the clearance :toothless :histerica

GIVE 2 REDNECKS A DRILL. BAD IDEA :slap

I just want to be sure I understand this wright. :shrug

Have an 88 with the TTB with the BS tophat locking hubs.

My understanding is this; I can use the D50 axleshaft and replace them with my 44 shafts and keep the 44 3rd member.
Now would I need to use the spendel out from the D50?
The reson I ask is I want to get reid of the tophats hubs so I can have real hubs. Later date I i'm planning on a SAS (long way down the road) but this sounds like a easy and cheap way to get the better hubs and joints.
Thank for any help Todd.

I just want to be sure I understand this wright. :shrug

Have an 88 with the TTB with the BS tophat locking hubs.

My understanding is this; I can use the D50 axleshaft and replace them with my 44 shafts and keep the 44 3rd member.
Now would I need to use the spendel out from the D50?
The reson I ask is I want to get reid of the tophats hubs so I can have real hubs. Later date I i'm planning on a SAS (long way down the road) but this sounds like a easy and cheap way to get the better hubs and joints.
Thank for any help Todd.

The change to D50 slip shaft dosent have anything to do with the hubs..

You can get the outer shafts, spindles, hubs, and rotors at a wrecking yard to get rid of those hubs

There is one advantage to the 50 center section. Costs a whole lot less to get 4.10s in the front when you swap in a chunk with the right gears already. Cheaper than regearing.
Thats what I did before I slid a 60 under the front.
Chris

Great older thread, thorough right up.

So, the D50 does have a slightly bigger ring gear, but nobody has any issues with the D44.

Only thing to bother with on the TTB D44 is the D50 shaft and adding the spring to ditch the C-clip. That right?

I'll be needing 4.56's to 4.86/.88's so better to just stay with the D44 3rd????

Yes, just stick with the D44 carrier/gears

There is no advantage of the D50 diff. The advantage comes from the D50 inner slip yoke but that can be used with a D44, no probs.

There is an advantage to the D50---the availability of 4.30s! Just too bad I found out about this after I did the 4.10s:doh0715: (I didn't want to to to 4.56s with only 33s.)

I was searching for D50 stub shaft stuff when I came across this thread, so I thought I'd revive it.

Since this thread has been revived I'd like to ask a question.

I have a F-150 with 3.54 gears.
I have a complete loose d50 w/4.10s. I'm swapping in a d70 rear with VSS so 8 lug pattern is not a problem.
I want to swap in the entire d50 but have heard the arms may be different lengths and mount different than the 44. Looks like the coil mounts could be fabbed on the leaf sprung arms.

I want to end up with the 4.10s, d50 stub shafts and d50 hubs.

Can I swap all d50 parts onto the d44 arms? Or will the d50 arms work? Also I've heard there are 2 sizes of d50 joints, 1350 and 1410, is this so?

I should mention I know the 50ttb is nothing like a solid axle 44 or even a good flexing 44ttb, let alone a d60. I'm looking for an easy gear swap, upraded stub shaft, better brakes, stronger spindles and bearings, and HD hubs for free. This truck at most is a camper dragger and to tow my eb or haul a load of wood. It needs to free itself when I back a trailer into the mud or sink with a load of wood. Even tho it's 50 miles away it will never see past the trail head of the Rubicon.

I want to swap in the entire d50 but have heard the arms may be different lengths and mount different than the 44.
Looks like the coil mounts could be fabbed on the leaf sprung arms.
they are

I want to end up with the 4.10s, d50 stub shafts and d50 hubs.

Can I swap all d50 parts onto the d44 arms? Or will the d50 arms work? Also I've heard there are 2 sizes of d50 joints, 1350 and 1410, is this so?

the 3rd member swaps onto the D44 beams, but the knuckles, ball joints, hubs etc are all different. the knuckles only work on D50 arms, and since the hubs, spindles, and brakes won't work on anything but D50 TTB knuckles (and D60) you will need those if you want the benefits. no reason you couldn't use brackets off a D50 and then run the D50 arms. you would need to fab coil and radius arm mounts.

1350, 1410? those are driveshaft joints. in which case the D50 will most likely have the same joint as your D44, a 1330F. if you are talking axle joints, the D50 uses 2 different sizes. the stub shaft joint is a 1350 driveshaft joint (IIRC) and i believe the outer u joints are standard D60 sized 1480 joints but i could be wrong. the outers are the same 30 splines as D60s, i'm just not sure if they use the D60 or the D44 joint. its been a couple years since i've messed with any D50 stuff as they are kinda oddball.

to swap in the stub shaft and change 3rd members? it was a one day project working by myself. probably ~6 man hours solo. its not hard, just a fairly involved front end teardown, the only real hard part is lining up the 3rd when you put it back on

Just some possible helpful links based on the subject.

Using Chevy stuff:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59679&highlight=d50

An article from Four Wheeler about using dana 50 and doing a coil over conversion or something of that nature:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38105&highlight=d50
http://www.fourwheeler.com/featuredvehicles/22738/

Here is a 8 lug conversion:
http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/8lug/index.html

I have looked around for several hours this morning, I swear that a few months ago I saw a write up of a guy who put on a dana 50 spindle and the d44ttb knuckle. I want to say it was stagmasta 501 or something like that. I don't know but its driving me nuts and I got to go to work. If anyone remebers this can you post the link or pm me. I have been following this thread for some time now and swear that I remember someone changing out the spindle on a different thread while I was researching this topic.

I have a complete d50 and a complete d44hd loose and I had a minute to look at them the other day. Looking from the back side of the knuckles it appears they have totaly different bolt patterns on the spindles, so no joy there.

Some F-250s and early F-350's came with a Dana 50 TTB. There is no easy way to determine which truck had this, but if it’s a TTB truck with Dana 60 sized hubs, then it has the Dana 50 version of the TTB. The Dana 50 is very similar to a Dana 44; it uses a 9” ring gear as opposed to the 8.5” Dana 44 ring gear and Dana 60 sized hubs and outers (gurus: am i right?), but it still uses the same size/spline inner axle shafts. The advantage in this is that the center u-joint (stub shaft) is much larger on a Dana 50 TTB.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106149&toggle=fullsize&f=P2060002.JPG
The Dana 50 version obviously has larger ears and the u-joint is a drive shaft stlye 1310. (the guy at the yard said 1350, but it didn’t look that big to me :shrug) It also uses full circle retainers as opposed to the c-clips that the 5-297x Spicer joint uses. This method of retention is much more durable.

A major issue with the TTB 3rd member is that it uses a c-clip to retain the axle shaft. The only way to change a shaft in the field is to remove the entire 3rd member, which = messy and time consuming. Where the c-clip attaches on the Dana 50 shaft is thicker than the Dana 44 version and will hit the spider gear cross pin before you can get the c-clip to engage.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106150&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070010.JPG
The common way to fix this problem is a spring in the cup of the slip shaft. (this method is also used for a locked front end, and can be used with a stock Dana 44 stub shaft as well)
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106200&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070013.JPG
The spring will provide pressure, pushing the 2 passenger inner axles apart and keeping the stub shaft secure in the housing. I used a 7/8” compression spring from OSH, cut down to about 2½”. You may have to play around with the length of the spring before you are comfortable. Make sure you install the complete passenger side axle shaft and spindle. This will give you an idea as to how much play the spring allows.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106151&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070011.JPG
Slide the stub shaft into the housing:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106202&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070007.JPG
About this time, if you haven’t already done so, you will want to chop off the stupid nipples on the frame that catch your knuckles:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106203&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070009.JPG
Now, since the Dana 50 ears are larger, you will want to rotate the stub shaft to see if you need to grind the beam down a little for clearance.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106205&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070015.JPG
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=106207&toggle=fullsize&f=P2070016.JPG
Mine was fine, so once I got the spring length dialed in i was pretty much done.

FROM HERE, REFER BACK TO STEP 14 OF THE PREVIOUS POST.

Is the axle shaft that slides into the slip shaft the same on the D50 and the D44? When I do this uprade, do I use the long axle from my D44 or the D50? Can I use the D50 long axle shaft? Is it any stronger? Thanks.

Is the axle shaft that slides into the slip shaft the same on the D50 and the D44? When I do this uprade, do I use the long axle from my D44 or the D50? Can I use the D50 long axle shaft? Is it any stronger? Thanks.


No, the only part out of the D50 that will fit into the D44 is the stub shaft, the long shaft that slides into the stub is too short, and I'm pretty sure it's too big to slide in through the knuckle even if it was the right length.

what dave said is right. only the stub shaft fits. the axle shaft that slides into the ship shafts are the same on the d44 and d50. you will use the long axle from the d44. no you cannot use the d50 long shaft. i am sure it is stronger, but it will not fit. check my supermotor for some pics of mine when i did the upgrade.

What if one were to use the d50 3rd member? In this case I would want to use the d50 long shaft, correct? The reason I ask is because I want the 4.30 ratio and its only available in the d50 so that is what I am planning on.

What if one were to use the d50 3rd member? In this case I would want to use the d50 long shaft, correct? The reason I ask is because I want the 4.30 ratio and its only available in the d50 so that is what I am planning on.

And that gearing is available for the rear you are running? And you don't care about little to no front axle traction aid options (i.e. detroit, ARB, you name, it's not made for a 50)?

Good catch, I forgot there are no traction options for the d50. I am running the stock 8.8 in the rear and yes both ford racing and motive gear make 4.30 ratios for the 8.8 - according to summitracing.com. Looks like I'll be sticking with the d44 3rd member since I'm planning on installing an eaton detroit trutrac LSD in the front. Thanks.

There are traction options for the D50, yes they are limited though. I scored a cheap factory 4.10 geared D50 third and then after some time I scored a cheap brand new Richmond Lock Right for it. Both off ebay. $250 total invested. However, I to need the re-gear as the 4.10s will likely not be quite enough. Likewise I to was thinking 4.30s as I have a 9" going out back. Though I'm planning to initially run a factory 9 3/8 4.10 Tracloc 3rd member (again scored off ebay/150 bucks). Then, if I truely need the regear, I'll re-gear a Nodular 3.50 Tracloc (again, on the cheap local/salvage yard) or open standard case I have.

Just the option I came across............and will try.

One might be able to heat the valve spring until it's orange with a torch without melting it. That would weaken the spring's integrity substantially.

Nobody mentioned that 1980-1982 D44 and D50 ttb had a different stub axle retaining method that does not use a c-clip. The early ttb has a collar pressed onto the axle to retain the bearing and seal then the stub axle assembly is bolted onto the side of the third member with a plate ring and 3 external bolts.

These early ttb setups allow you to swap out the inside stub axles in the field without removing the 3rd member from the pivot housing. This old style 3rd member also makes swapping in the (early style) d50 stub axle into the d44 diff a simple affair. And this early style will accept any of the d44 traction adders (diffs) since it's a non c-clip design.

Nobody mentioned that 1980-1982 D44 and D50 ttb had a different stub axle retaining method that does not use a c-clip. The early ttb has a collar pressed onto the axle to retain the bearing and seal then the stub axle assembly is bolted onto the side of the third member with a plate ring and 3 external bolts.

These early ttb setups allow you to swap out the inside stub axles in the field without removing the 3rd member from the pivot housing. This old style 3rd member also makes swapping in the (early style) d50 stub axle into the d44 diff a simple affair. And this early style will accept any of the d44 traction adders (diffs) since it's a non c-clip design.

someone just scored one of the older D50 slipshafts and there is a thread on that.

but, most anyone doing this swap does not worry about the C clip newer ones anyway since they use a spring to retain the shaft, no more C clip. Most lockers do not allow for use of the C clip.

someone just scored one of the older D50 slipshafts and there is a thread on that.

but, most anyone doing this swap does not worry about the C clip newer ones anyway since they use a spring to retain the shaft, no more C clip. Most lockers do not allow for use of the C clip.

True, as does the Detroit Tru-Trac LS. It comes with a spring kit to replace the c-clip.

True, as does the Detroit Tru-Trac LS. It comes with a spring kit to replace the c-clip.

Before you flame me I read through this thread, which by searching gave me all the info. I just want to make sure about one step. I am getting ready to do the Dana 50 stub shaft upgrade. I have a Detroit truetrac limited slip already. I believe my c clips are already gone. Will my stub shaft just slide out with out having to remove the front diff? If that is the case it seems it would be an easy upgrade.

if it does not have the c clip it should just slide out

Well i finally found a D50 upgrade shaft and slipyoke, it is being shipped to my house.
What is the strongest U-joint i can put in it?, and maybe a part number or something?
Thanks,
Matt

Well i finally found a D50 upgrade shaft and slipyoke, it is being shipped to my house.
What is the strongest U-joint i can put in it?, and maybe a part number or something?
Thanks,
Matt

well, hmm, posted this AM that the ujoints will all be 1350 series and the spicer 799x is the best.

True, as does the Detroit Tru-Trac LS. It comes with a spring kit to replace the c-clip.

Uh, I'm goint to have to look into this, It has been a few years, but I am pretty sure I used a C-clip with my Detroit Tru-Trac.:scratchhe

i would like to know if the d50 slip yoke would work with my d44 short stub? i haven't had any problems with the short stub, but the slip yoke keeps on snapping in half ! not sure which ujoint to use being that the slip yoke is from a d50 and the short stub is d44!!!!

i would like to know if the d50 slip yoke would work with my d44 short stub? i haven't had any problems with the short stub, but the slip yoke keeps on snapping in half ! not sure which ujoint to use being that the slip yoke is from a d50 and the short stub is d44!!!!

If you are talking about the innermost shaft and slip being the D50 piece, and then connecting to the other inner (not outer stub) piece, but it being stock 44, yes this would work IF you found a crossover joint for the yoke difference. Doubt anyone has done this as it's not worth the effort. xover joints are usually also 2x the price of a standard joint. don't understand why you'd waste the time. Someone was just advertising the whole D50 slipshaft for a mere $70, that's the way to go, or don't bother. Your xover joint would likely cost $40 if you could find one.

i didn't want to take the third member apart to install the d50 short stub, since mine is not broken! all i wanted to do is replace the actual slip yoke that connects to the u-joint to the inner stub shaft! the only part that recently broke for the second time is the actual slip yoke and the u-joint, but the inner stub shaft is intact! i do plan to go with sas in the near future! i am currently trying to figuire out how much money i would need to do the sas!

I am wondering if it is really necessary to tac weld the spring into place, as it will take me some time to gain access to a welder. What does the spring kit in the trutrac look like? I assume it doesn't require welding...

I am wondering if it is really necessary to tac weld the spring into place, as it will take me some time to gain access to a welder. What does the spring kit in the trutrac look like? I assume it doesn't require welding...


tack weld what spring?

I am wondering if it is really necessary to tac weld the spring into place, as it will take me some time to gain access to a welder. What does the spring kit in the trutrac look like? I assume it doesn't require welding...

i think you meant tac weld the cap to the shaft so the spring doesnt pop it out. I have one of these sitting in my garage right now. It doesnt need any welding just a sping to keep the shaft in place, you dont even need to have resistance, it just keeps the shaft from falling out.

It's a good idea to tack weld the cap. the spring does need to apply some pressure, just think about it. tires travels down, shafts move away, what keeps the inner stub from not wanting to walk out? Way back when people were putting valve springs in (cut). WAY too stiff. popping the cap. ARB and some other manuf. supply a much lighter spring these days but I'm not sure why I'm going through all this since it's in this post? A spring is needed of proper length to provide light pressure.

I am swapping a 3rd with 4.10's and want to eliminate the c-clip and am having trouble finding the prefered spring you guys used. I went to my local 4x4 shop and they just kinda looked at me.I even went on to explain about how some lockers require it......still nothing. Then an old guy walked out and said use a 4cyl valve spring.

Andy mentioned OSH and I have no idea what that is, thinking a store though.

The only idea I've come up with is maybe a brake shoe retaining spring.

So if anyone knows what that spring is actually used for than maybe I can track down a store that sells it.

Any hardware supply, compression spring:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/76142/fullsize/p1010187.jpg

It can be longer, just cut it down to a size as described in this thread to provide a light amount of pressure.

I Used a ??valve spring at first later I thought it might be to stiff so I got another that I randomly found at the junk yard. Later I use the valve spring off a jap bike It worked out best.

Well unless you find the one he used.

Thanks Shado and Larry, I went to Princess Auto (similar to Harbour Freight) and found a bag of assorted springs for $4.00. These three seem like the best candidates.I also tacked the cap in place just for good measure.

yep, that's what you want. So when you go and put this together, you want to cut whatever spring you choose to a length (if you need to) such that when you put the spindle back on the knuckle, and before you start bolting it down, you are just able to start feeling some resistance...spindle will push against outer shaft, which in turn will try and push that spring in.

Thanks Shado and Larry, I went to Princess Auto (similar to Harbour Freight) and found a bag of assorted springs for $4.00. These three seem like the best candidates.I also tacked the cap in place just for good measure.

I have been sitting here for a while scratching my head as I read and reread parts of this thread trying to figure out how/where to weld on this. Thanks to your picture, I no longer wonder.:doh0715:

SWS

I have been sitting here for a while scratching my head as I read and reread parts of this thread trying to figure out how/where to weld on this. Thanks to your picture, I no longer wonder.:doh0715:

SWS
Ah, there's a few threads on this board with my pic of that.

http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/chassis/shaftspotweld.jpg

I have been sitting here for a while scratching my head as I read and reread parts of this thread trying to figure out how/where to weld on this. Thanks to your picture, I no longer wonder.:doh0715:

SWS

Ya I noticed there wasn't a pic of the cap tacked in this thread so thought it might be useful for someone who wasn't sure what/where it was.:beer

Ah, there's a few threads on this board with my pic of that.

http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/chassis/shaftspotweld.jpg

Mine popped the cap eventually and I had to weld it back together... in the truck. lol, that was fun. Still rock'n the D50 I got from you Dusty, love the power lok I stuck in there too. On dry pavement in 4wd the truck hops and binds with that l/s up front and factory in the rear :) I've got a plow on it now that I retired it from wheeling duty.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1995%20F150/th_532631667_photobucket_33223_.jpg (http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h250/D3thM3tal/1995%20F150/532631667_photobucket_33223_.jpg)

Ok, I'm pretty sure I understand . Here's my question: what parts do I need to source?
Do I need to get all of the D50 axel shaft parts or just thr inner passenger side axel shaft with joint that goes into the differential?

I need to go through my front axel and am trying to get all the parts gathered.

Thanks for the clarification.

I just re-read another thread on the same topic. All that's being replaced in this upgrade is the passenger side inner shaft assembly (shaft that goes into the diff, female side of the slip shaft and the u-joint that connects them).
Is that correct? @

Unless you want to run 4.10 gears on the cheap, than yes just the passenger side shaft at the pumpkin gets upgraded.

Ok so do i need to do this spring and tack weld stuff? Cant I just take a D50 member and bolt it in place of my D44 member and not have to do anything special here?

I am looking to upgrade to 4.10 gears in my bronco was thinking I could just pull the 3rd members and bolt them back in front and rear. I have a 9in out back.

I don't think you can. I know the arms are different and THINK the mounting holes (to the front of the TTB) is different between the two.

SWS

I don't think you can. I know the arms are different and THINK the mounting holes (to the front of the TTB) is different between the two.

SWS

I thought the d50 and d44 members were the same bolt pattern