whos the stereo dude or dudettes around here. simple question. i bought a cheap stereo. its a knobber. has simple speaker level outputs and RCA preamp. i bought an amp too. its a 2x75. there is a remote terminal. i know this is so the amp doest stay on. right? the cheap knobber has no remote lead. what can i use for the remote? what type of input is the remote terminal looking for? what else can i hook it up to if there is no lead for the remote? could i run a wire from one of the speaker level leads to it? possibly after adding something to that lead that kept the alleged 50 watts of power from over loading the remote terminal. am i making sense? AXE

the remote wire is low watts 12 volts. so you have 2 options run a wire from a key wire on your fuse pannel, or run a wire from a toggle switch...

hook up to the ignition wire on your stereo's wiring harness.

ya just need to hook it up to the power wire on the stereo. it will be on whenever the key is on like 93akbronco said

OK. then can i bridge a wire from my power cable? the power runs to a terminal. that terminal block that has 2 pos & 2 neg screw downs clamps. i am running 8 gauge back to the amp from the battery. it seems silly to run the little thin blue wire back from the same terminal on the starter solenoid just to get power to the remote if its coming from the same source. or is it that the 8G wire will be carrying too much power to bridge over to the remote terminal? i havent a clue. i can just run it fom the same fuse i tapper for stereo power, i just want as clean looking of an install as possible. i have RCA pre-amp outs on this cheapy and a CD input jack. the speaper level leads power the door speakers. this is a cheapo. no antenna lead, just left & right output. no fader. i got the amp mounted behind the spare thats on the inside carrier. theres room for 1 more. i will get pics, but its nothing special. ran power along the frame split loom. gotta wire tie away from heat. the RCA will go inside somewhere. i think it can go up the a pillar, along the roof and down the inner fender cavity to behind the upper seatbelt deal and out to the amp. i will see. AXE

DO NOT connect the remote turn-on lead to the power on the amp. it will drain your battery.
run the turn-on lead to the POWER wire on the back of the head unit(stereo). just buy the clamp on splice thingys.

ok but heres the thing. the power is connected to the terminal on the side of the starter solenoid that is only on when i turn the key to start or accessory position. so it gets power wether the radio is on or not. i just realized that without an accessory lead, i will need a toggle to shut it off if i dont want it on all the time. crap, i had the thing open yesterday. i could have spliced in to the power after the swtich so when ever the radio was on or off it would be on or off too. oh well. live and learn. i will do that if i ever have to take it out again. i dont think i could find the factory harness actually. thanks, AXE

take your stereo out. in the wiring harness for it, there is a red wire, that might say 12v ignition. splice a wire into that and run it to the amp. this way, whenever you have your stereo on, there is signal goin to your amp telling it to be on. no switch, nuthin. if you want a switch, put it inline with that.

the red wire or the blue wire? red or blue? :P i was just remebering my days on the bomb squad. wait, that wasnt me. ok, if i splice to the red wire, the amp will be on no matter what. cause that wire is hot as long as the key is on, whether i have the radio turned on or not. like i said had i know and thought, i would have spliced in after the on/off switch so that when i turned the knob to the on position, there would be a signal to the amp that i could control easily. i think. AXE :idea: