DISCLAIMER: 4xPepe` is by no means any sort of MECHANIC. Infact it could easily be said that he is MECHANICALLY CHALLENGED. Please consider the source when using his information/experience. 4xPepe` cannot be held responsible for the use and or abuse of the following technical information. With that being said… on with the Write-Up!


Installing SUMMIT Shorty Headers on a 1989 Ford Bronco with a 3 inch Body Lift.

Hindsight is 20/20; so let’s go over some of the lessons learned before I walk you through the installation…
1. Start with the passenger side, it's the hardest and the drivers side will seem like a relief after getting through the passenger side.
2. Take the passenger side fender-well out (as Rafa said to me). There should only be 2 canister type items connected to it and it is SO WORTH the extra 10-15 minutes!
3. When connecting the headers to the exhaust... hook up the passenger side first. This side is the closest to the CAT and has very little movement already... while the driver side has plenty of movement being so far from the CAT.
4. Get new plugs to install too! Once the passenger side header is on... good luck ever getting to the plugs again! On this same note... you will need at least a 45-degree angle on your plug wire caps (Mine were already 45-degree.)


A cracked Exhaust Manifold started this whole project. My original intention was simply to replace the cracked manifold on the driver side. Little did I know, my Bronco wanted new Headers. I got a set of used exhaust manifolds from another ’89 351W, but for some undetermined reason the used manifolds did not match up at all. After fighting with them for a day, I went ahead and decided to get the recommended SUMMIT Shorty Headers. I ordered these and had them sent overnight for just under $200:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45848&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45849&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45850&toggle=fullsize

PARTS (Where’s my DAMN STICKERS?):
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45851&toggle=fullsize

Of course the stock standard gaskets didn’t look real trustworthy, so I decided to go with the “Mr. Gasket” set instead. $20:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45852&toggle=fullsize

Now on closer review of the Passenger Header you may notice that access to the plugs is VERY limited. NOW is the time to replace those spark plugs, so I went with the BOSCH plugs. These plugs are a bit shorter than the standard plugs and I figure anything to keep them as far away from the heat of the headers is a good thing:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45853&toggle=fullsize

New Headers laid out and EGR tube temporarily installed. Once the headers are installed the tube may require a little bending, but should work just fine:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45854&toggle=fullsize

IN-SIDE:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45856&toggle=fullsize

Here are some very handy tools that I was lucky enough to have around. You’ll soon see where they play a very important part:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45857&toggle=fullsize

Trying to apply 20 lbs. of torque to the Header bolts was difficult due to access room, but this setup made a real difference:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45858&toggle=fullsize

If your short and fat like me (or just short, or your Bronco is BIG) you’ll have a problem reaching into the motor compartment. I used stacked Milk crates work great and thier so cheap (as they are generally available during the midnight special sale behind your local grocery store):
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45859&toggle=fullsize

Lighting is always important and here’s a clever little setup, if you have a “Customized” paint job:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45860&toggle=fullsize


Now… to the MEAT!

As I mentioned before I had already removed the old exhaust manifolds, so let’s just start from there. This is the driver side; it is much easier to access than the passenger side. I left the old plugs in at this point, as I didn’t want to break any of the new ones when installing the driver side header. Bare exhaust ports:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45861&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45862&toggle=fullsize

Here you can see the driver side header pretty much drops right in and matches up real nice:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45863&toggle=fullsize

Looking like a nice clean fit, except there is no place to connect the dip-stick brackets anymore. Oh well… I’ll fix that later:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45864&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45865&toggle=fullsize

Looks like a go to me! Dropped in the gaskets, got the bolts started and replacing the plugs:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45866&toggle=fullsize

Everything on this side was just too smooth, should known trouble was coming later. Got the Plug boots on:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45867&toggle=fullsize

Decided to use a Zip-Tie to hold that Dip-Stick in place. Notice the convenient bracket I used to anchor too:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45868&toggle=fullsize


Things are going so well at this point… I think I’ll take a little break.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45869&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45870&toggle=fullsize

BACK TO WORK – PASSENGER SIDE!!!

So at this point I was still pretty intimidated by all the stuff on the passenger side fender-well and trying to avoid pulling it off, so I changed the plugs with it still on.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45871&toggle=fullsize

Say… do you think I’m leaking any OIL?
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45872&toggle=fullsize

So I’m cleaning up the area and getting ready to drop in the passenger header. Before I do that I have to deal with the exhaust pipe nut and bolt that are completely rusted together. They even got to soak in PB Blaster overnight... still wouldn't budge:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45873&toggle=fullsize

Tried removing the tire to access those bolts… still not enough room:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45874&toggle=fullsize

So I break down and remove the fender-well. This was way easier than I anticipated and was a major advantage when installing the header. I’d recommend that anyone do this:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45875&toggle=fullsize

LOOK AT ALL THAT ROOM:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45876&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45877&toggle=fullsize

Now I can get to those rusted bolts and a whole lot more!
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45878&toggle=fullsize

Taking care of those bolts was easy enough once I could get to them:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45879&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45880&toggle=fullsize

So I drop in the header and look at that… good thing I already installed the new plugs:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45881&toggle=fullsize

Now I notice that the header isn’t lining up with the exhaust pipe like the driver sided did:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45882&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45883&toggle=fullsize

So I crawl back under the rig and detach the driver side exhaust pipe, suddenly with a little push… the passenger side now lines up real easy:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45884&toggle=fullsize
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45885&toggle=fullsize

Once that was done I re-connected the driver side, dropped in the gasket on the passenger header. Here I pulled up the little piece from the header, it would melt quickly if left to sit on the header where it used to live. I have no idea what the piece is called, but it’s out of the way now:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45886&toggle=fullsize

Here’s where I Zip-Tied that little bugger to keep it out of harms way:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45887&toggle=fullsize

I routed the little vacuum lines through the zip-tie to ensure they were also safe and connected the plug wires as well, also making sure they cleared the headers.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45888&toggle=fullsize

And the passenger side is ALMOST FINISHED:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45889&toggle=fullsize

All that should be left from here is to reconnect the fender-well, torque the header bolts on the passenger side and clean up a bit.

Of course you should take the rig out… run it hard and HOT to burn off the paint (stinky) and then some back and re-torque any bolts that need it.

Come back now and then for the next few weeks making sure the bolts stay torque down and your headers should enjoy and long and successful life!

Summit claims you should gain 15 HP from installing these headers and I have to agree that the feeling is noticeable and the sound, while not any louder is somewhat “throatier”.

INVALID SESSION!!!!!

INVALID SESSION!!!!! :finger: ;)

glad to see the fender trick made things a bit easier..

Awesome writeup Pepe'! :cheers: Pics are worth a thousand words and you have plenty of them...shoulda changed the valve cover gaskets while you were in there... :lol: " INVALID SESSION" You's a badboy "Sway!" :mrgreen:

Awesome writeup Pepe'! :cheers: Pics are worth a thousand words and you have plenty of them...shoulda changed the valve cover gaskets while you were in there... :lol: " INVALID SESSION" You's a badboy "Sway!" :mrgreen:
Thanks J-ROC... I thought about it, but cost wise I was already $200 over budget and besides, just like my old ShovelHead... it's an OIL FILTRATION SYSTEM. No need to CHANGE the OIL, just keep it FULL! :mrgreen: ;) :twisted:

Very good PePe.
I am quite inpressed with your tech write up.
I liked how you mentioned to install the passenger side plugs first because they are a b!tch to replace after the passnger side header is in.
I could only imagine how upset someone would be trying to get those plugs out & in after the fact.

Looks good and you gotta keep us up to date on how they are working for you.

Nice write up. Looks good, good job. Are those springs red under all that mud? So does your rig sound/perform any different?

WAY TO PEPE!!! Glad to see ya got it together and got it on the site ....

nice write up...im thinking of doing the headers thing......and that leak....man you need to fix that....i had a leak like that...and it burned my plug wires all up....its a job to fiw it...took me about 6 hours..and then 8 beers after it to chill me out...

and that leak....

I thought that was PB blaster overspray? :roll:

and that leak....
I thought that was PB blaster overspray? :roll:
Allot of it was the PB (on the frame and such...) but I do have both valve covers leaking some. Honestly not sure about touching that with the EFI stuff going on. I may have to learn that crap anyway... maybe if/when/after we get to Florida.

Are those springs red under all that mud? So does your rig sound/perform any different?
Nothing red in there... at least not anymore. The sound is a bit throatier, but the sound level is basically the same, since it's using the same CAT and other exhaust protections. Performance is better, feels like I did get the extra 15 HP promised. At least she turns those 35's a little easier on take off now than ever before!

Now there are a few things to look at when you get these. One if they say pacsetter on them , ship them back. Ive heard a few people on a different site that had problems with the pacsetter model.
These are the PacSetters so I'll keep ya'll up to date if I have any problems with them.

Thanks for all the positive feedback guys! Sure makes it all worth stopping to take the pics and writing it up!

BTW: Special Thanks to MountainMan for pointing these headers out to me when I was in the middle of chaos, to Raf for pointing out the Fender-well access, and to my neighbor (not the psyco one) for helping me out and just sticking around when I was ready to throw a fit in the garage!
Also much thanks to FSB and all those who helped me out during this project. Again... couldn't have done it without you guys!

Congrates Pepe...keep it up and you will no longer be "mechanically challenged"! :cheers: Now doesn't it feel good to fix it better than before all by yourself?

Lighting is always important and here’s a clever little setup, if you have a “Customized” paint job:


is that a grow light ? ? ? :mrgreen: GREAT write up Pepe', thanks for taking the time and sharing it with us

Nice job Pepe, good write up

Nice job Pepe, good write up
Thanks Crazed! :cheers:

is that a grow light ? ? ? :mrgreen: GREAT write up Pepe', thanks for taking the time and sharing it with us
Well... uh... YES! :cool: It was anyway! My pleasure Joe, just hope it helps somebody out! ;)

Congrates Pepe...keep it up and you will no longer be "mechanically challenged"! :cheers: Now doesn't it feel good to fix it better than before all by yourself?
You bet it does... reminds me of rebuilding the old ShovelHead. Doesn't make the lil' lady too happy when I'm out there all the time... but it helps when I tell her the $$$ we saved! :lol:

I liked how you mentioned to install the passenger side plugs first because they are a b!tch to replace after the passnger side header is in.
I could only imagine how upset someone would be trying to get those plugs out & in after the fact.

Glad to see my advice helped you out Pepe!!! Man that was the most complete write-up ive ever seen, includes: Lighting, tools, Break nutrition, drink selection, and a gazillion pics!!!

Just check the bolts on those valve covers I bet that they are just a little loose and when you retorque the leak will go away

81Bronk36: You were totally on the ball with that advice. As everyone can now see... thos pugs would have been just short of impossible to deal with! Thanks again for that tip!
As for the write up... well, that's what happens when you ask a perfectionist for advice man. You get much more than you asked for and probably more than you could use! :lol:

80bronco: I'll give that a try this weekend when I re-torque the header bolts. Couldn't hurt! Any idea of the torque specifics so I don't totally squash the gaskets? ;)

Pepe, again im glad it helped you out man, you dunno how much crap I had to go through to get my headers to work!!

As far as the valve covers, I would say 5-10 foot lbs should be fine, but it is possible to break those bolts off or shear a hole in the cover from the washer so go easy, but if they are mad loose, you could give em a little turn no prob.

I always us the German tech manual for covers... Good-n-tight!!

Great job 4xPepe', I am sure it will help out many of us. Especially me if and when I get the money to do that....on top of everything else I would like to do to the Bronco...

:thumbup :thumbup

That's one of the best write ups I've seen Pepe!!! :cheers: :cheers: So how long did the whole process actually take, break included?? And did I understand it correctly, are you coming down to Florida?

That's one of the best write ups I've seen Pepe!!! :cheers: :cheers: So how long did the whole process actually take, break included?? And did I understand it correctly, are you coming down to Florida?
Process took me a few days, but if you took away all the BS and I figure it probably took me a flat 5-6 hrs removing, cleaning and re-installing the headers... including an hour eating pizza and having a shake. Keep in mind this was my first time and I do alot of lookin' and checkin' before I go jumpin into the next step.

As to the Florida question... it's a HUGE possability I'll be a Tampa resident in 30 days, not sure yet.

Great job 4xPepe', I am sure it will help out many of us. Especially me if and when I get the money to do that...
:thumbup :thumbup
Then it's all worth it! ;)

As far as the valve covers, I would say 5-10 foot lbs should be fine, but ... I always us the German tech manual for covers... Good-n-tight!!
I thought that was a Swedish Virgin... "Goodntight". Sounds good to me!

As far as the valve covers, I would say 5-10 foot lbs should be fine, but ... I always us the German tech manual for covers... Good-n-tight!!
I thought that was a Swedish Virgin... "Goodntight". Sounds good to me!

Hard to come by... but Id be all over it!!

tampa? dude, thats gonna be culture shock. valve cover gaskets are pretty easy. dont let that upper malifold scare ya. all the efi stuff unplugs easy, and they all are a different shaped plug, so you cant put it back together wrong. just use a good gasket, clean every surface with brake cleaner, and use a little rtv and you should be good to go for a long while. i havent had one drop of oil on my motor since i rebuilt it. just get it clean and the gaskets will seal good.

I tawt you were gonna put them on the babies high chair. :mrgreen:

Good job Pepe`, it only took you about 6 hours, heck between you and me it should only take us about a month or two to get my lift installed. hehehehe

Seriously, good right up you Floridian you. Be nice if your here for the forth of July, We plans on taken a trip to Naples which is only a few Hours away from Tampa.

Allcruisen :pimp :pimp :pimp :gousa

I've had problems accessing spark plugs in header equipped rigs and I holesawed 1-1/8" holes in the fenderwells where a long extension (or 2) would go straight in and the socket would hit each spark plug. It might work on newer Broncos, I dunno.

Not with the pacsetter headers it won't!

Yeah, some sets are like that. Really good writeup you did. I think you bled on the coil spring. Nice touch. You're in Post Falls? Nice and close to the State Line Speedway. That's an awesome track.

Yeah, some sets are like that. Really good writeup you did. I think you bled on the coil spring. Nice touch. You're in Post Falls? Nice and close to the State Line Speedway. That's an awesome track.
Yea... Fords and Harleys like a little blood sacrafice to make it all go well! :twisted: I didn't even notice that one... as you could tell by my response.
Thanks for the kind words on the write-up! :D
I am very close to the StateLine Speedway... love to go there. Racing season is coming and watching our little local circle track and figure eight races beats the hell out of watching the boob-tube races!
You ever come up to the area?

After looking at your writeup, I can see why that passenger side would be a b!tch to replace the plugs. What a crazy design. :flipoff: to Pacesetter. As stated earlier, excellent job on the details. :cheers: rockon

I go there once in a while for softball tournaments in Cd'A.

After looking at your writeup, I can see why that passenger side would be a b!tch to replace the plugs. What a crazy design. :flipoff: to Pacesetter. As stated earlier, excellent job on the details. :cheers: rockon
Thanks and agreed on :flipoff: to Pacesetter.

I go there once in a while for softball tournaments in Cd'A.
You should let me know if your comin' by... we could hit the ORV park if your in the Bronco... or just meet up to have a brew and tell some lies. I'm not a real drinker... but I can handle a brew or 2. :cheers:

After looking at your writeup, I can see why that passenger side would be a b!tch to replace the plugs. What a crazy design. :flipoff: to Pacesetter. As stated earlier, excellent job on the details. :cheers: rockon

Its equal length shortys in general... never again!! :flipoff: :flipoff: I F'in hate em so bad!! Figured I got something for my worst mod when im in petersons..

Its equal length shortys in general... never again!! :flipoff: :flipoff: I F'in hate em so bad!! Figured I got something for my worst mod when im in petersons..

I have equal lenght headers from MAC, I can get to all the plugs, and I have the devils GT40P spark plug angle from hell heads. I got the 302 version on my 351, the pass side did not fit next to the AC. So I have a Ford racing performance parts header on that side.

I planed both headers so i can replace spark plugs anytime.

nice write up pepe` i will be doing headers soon i hope

Its equal length shortys in general... never again!! :flipoff: :flipoff: I F'in hate em so bad!! Figured I got something for my worst mod when im in petersons..

I have equal lenght headers from MAC, I can get to all the plugs, and I have the devils GT40P spark plug angle from hell heads. I got the 302 version on my 351, the pass side did not fit next to the AC. So I have a Ford racing performance parts header on that side.

I planed both headers so i can replace spark plugs anytime.

Thats cool, you didnt specify if you had direct replacement Equal lengths, Direct replacement means they fit in the place of manifolds, with the equal lengthness that equates to a tangled mess of 14-16" of pipe in 3" of space. That angle your talking about is 90 degrees out from the head, so its really no angle at all lol.

Thats cool, you didnt specify if you had direct replacement Equal lengths, Direct replacement means they fit in the place of manifolds, with the equal lengthness that equates to a tangled mess of 14-16" of pipe in 3" of space. That angle your talking about is 90 degrees out from the head, so its really no angle at all lol.

The Header on the drivers side is a equal length direct replacement, so it should fit up to stock exhaust. BUT I got rig of my stock exhaust at the same time of the headers. Complete performance exhaust system.

The header on the passenger side is an unequal length direct replacement headers for a 88-93 Mustang. So it wouldn't fit on the stock exhaust.

The headers are dumped into 2.5" collectors, which both get combined into a 3" Y where the first stock converter used to be. The its 3" into the muffler and a custome 3" tail pipe.

Drivers side header:
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2359/1501/exhaust_01.jpg

Passanger side header:
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2359/1501/exhaust_02.jpg

Drivers side collector:
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2359/1501/exhaust_03.jpg

Drivers side exhuast crossover under engine:
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2359/1501/exhaust_05.jpg

And the exhaust Y:
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2359/1501/exhaust_06.jpg

the drivers side is the only one ive tried to replace plugs on. I had carb problems when I first got my engine in, so wanted to check em out. Somehow got the front one loosened, but couldnt get it out of the hole!!!

That angle your talking about is 90 degrees out from the head, so its really no angle at all lol.

No. The GT40P's do seem like it, but there is still an angle to the plugs. And you are corect they are straighter in the head. I've liked their performance, I plan on upsizing the valves in a while. Hope to stuff 1.90 - 1.60 in them. But they work great on my 363

ya thats the same one I got im pretty sure(drivers side), its the tube that runs under and touches one of the boots that I had the most problems with.

ya thats the same one I got im pretty sure(drivers side), its the tube that runs under and touches one of the boots that I had the most problems with.

I played it safe from the start and got those fiberglass boot covers. I thought that wit hthe amount of money spent in exhaust work, $8 per cover was a good idea.

Side Note:
The 9mm Ford Racing wires seem pretty well built and made to handle lots of heat and stress. I love mine.

Im runnin 4 MSD 90 degree custom wires and 4 accells for a 81 Bronco. I havent built up the last 4 accells cuz I havent found looms nor installed any
my wires look like a tangled mess!! I put header wrap around the tube that practially touches the boot, so far its lasted the longest with that and the dent in it.

Im runnin 4 MSD 90 degree custom wires and 4 accells for a 81 Bronco. I havent built up the last 4 accells cuz I havent found looms nor installed any
my wires look like a tangled mess!! I put header wrap around the tube that practially touches the boot, so far its lasted the longest with that and the dent in it.

So you have the P's as well? on that 320+HP 302? LOL
you really need to get it dyno'ed, LOL. I was rating my truck in the 340's untill I saw the real numbers from the dyno. There is a big difference between preception and fact.

What headers did you use? the MAC set for both sides? If you ever need a passanger side replacement let me know. The MAC 302 header didn't fit on the 351 block.

hmm that doesnt sound good!! What you running for parts??? I didnt exactly stick a stock iron intake and 2 brl carb on there. Im gettin it dynoed as soon as I get it running the way I want it(like better then 4MPGs) Stupid centrificul probillet distributor is a bitch to figure out what springs to run.

Im running Macs both sides. Got em from Central Coast Mustangs, the guy didnt tell me they were direct replacement, just that they would fit the P heads.


I think im gonna fill out my Superford with exactly what I got... then Ill get hood pins with some locks on em!!

Check out my engine on my superford site. not sure what the chassie dyno gave me but i didn't even come close to 200.
BUT, don't mock me or doubt the truck:

story time, LOL:

I once had a friend "test drive" LOL a 95 lightning. Well then I showed up at the light, LOL. the salesguy was clueless. We each aniled it for almost 1/4 mile, or at least untill we were aproaching 80MPH. The 95 lightning was only avout 2 truck lengths ahead of me.

MY TRUCK:
363
B&M drag AOD with a 2.40 first gear
3.55 diff ratio
29" tires

95 LIGHTNING:
351
AODE 2.70 first gear
4.11 diff ratio
30" tires

So the lightning drivtrain should have given him a clear head start. But my engine was compensating for my wimmpy gear ratios.
I'll be swaping to 4.56 / 33" tires this year
And a AODE will be comming in the budget some day.
I'll also be swappign to a TrickFlow 351 intake in the next few months.

SO the Dyno says I suck, But the street says different. This whole real chassie dyno thing makes me wonder what the factory rates engines at.

:thumbup it was a good help for me I finally put in my ford motorsport stainless steel headers they bolted rigth in with no problems thank you pepe you saved me alot of extra hours:thumbup

Hey Oscar... no problem man! Love to hear that helped someone out.
Knowing that I had something to contribute to that awsome beast of yours... I'm honored. :brownbag :toothless

What was the part number on those gaskets? I have been looking for them but found nothing for the FSB or F-150.

What was the part number on those gaskets? I have been looking for them but found nothing for the FSB or F-150.
mr gasket #5930

Pepe, bringing up your thread.

How are those painted headers holding up to your weather??????

According to Chilton, 12-15 lbs of torque on the valve covers, retighten after 2 min

Pepe, bringing up your thread.

How are those painted headers holding up to your weather??????


I bet they are rusted already - mine only stayed black for a couple days..

I've tried EVERYTHING - Header paint, POR-20 Paint, and MagnetPaint!. Nothing sticks...

They all burn right off!

I dont care how they look, I just want to know if they are holding up well as far as sealing, etc.

jet hot them, they have locations here in phx but not sure where else. that stuff is the shit for coating headers!

hey was doin some searching and found this thread. just like to say great right up 4xPepe`and theres some good gouge on this thread.

i just found a crack in my passenger side exhaust manifold and went to get some jb weld to patch it up and saw that the crack goes all the way around the manifold so it looks like header time. i've been checking out the summit headers just have to come up with the $$$$.

hey 4xPepe` i was wondering how your headers were holding up also???

hey 81Bronk36 does that header wrap keep that area cool??

what kinda cost we looking at dustin? Is it better just to get stainless I wonder?

If you don't have one of those Jet Hot type places in your area there is probably something equivalent. Out here in Utah there is a place called HPC Coating that does the same stuff. When I get some headers I'm taking them straight to HPC.

My friend coated his header and tail pipe on his quad and you can literaly touch the pipe after one to two minutes of sitting after a long ride. Its amazing how cool that coating keeps things.

Also, from what I understand you can coat just about anything with that stuff. I'm also thinking about doing my intake manifold. Sorry plug, but I don't know prices off the top of my head, I know its not pocket change though, but its also not going to break you.

I replied to plugs PM, but for eveyone else... the headers have been holding up great.
They aren't the purtiest things around, but I've got no complaints.
Here's a little shot of drivers side on the new engine... (10 months later)
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=105502&toggle=fullsize&f=Assembly (6).JPG
YOu can see it's starting to look a little rusty, but there's no roblem structurally. They actually look less rusty in person.
Also... changing plugs is a bitch, but not as bad as I originally anticipated.
Cost was under $200 and I had mine overnight. :thumbup

Thanks D-diesel. :beer

yeah not sure on price, Im going to look into it for coating the mustang headers in it tho so I will let you know.

and yeah you can coat lots of things with it, my friends dad coated some valve covers for his hotrod

Pepe, thanks for doing the write up. I only just realized that it was written a year ago. I know jack about engines and this is gonna help me a lot when I get new headers. :thumbup

well, thanks to Pepe's write up, i just got done installing my shorties (same brand). it was a major PITA. Like pepe said, the drivers side is easy, but the pass side is like torture. I highly suggest starting on that side, because by the time you are done, you feel like the MOST INCOMPETENT wrench in the world. I could not get the bolts started with how big my hands are, but luckily my cousin stopped by and was able to put the pass side on for me.
There is no way to get even a crows foot on my bolts (not sure how pepe did it) so all mine are "gud n tite". Hopefully this week Ill get the Y pipe (bassinii with hi flow cat) on and test drive it, and IF i am lucky, there wont be any leaks

Just a side not, and something that i did not realize till I did the d-side. *put the end bolts in first, just a bit, then you can slide the gasket in, otherwise it is a PITA to try and hold both the header and gasket in place while trying to get the bolts in. I couldnt do it this way on the pass side, cause I couldnt get my big clumsy hads on the rear most bolt.


Anyways, I am SOOOOO glad that is over.

Now I am on to finish my dual batts and full accessory/winch/inverter rewire, and finish the sliders. THEN its time for the Con.

I installed some Ford Motorsport shorty headers on my 1990 5.0 Bronco last night. It took about 2.5 hours to do, not including taking my time to fabricate some mounting brackets for stuff that was previously bolted to the manifolds. It was a piece of cake and did not involve removing any inner fenders--not even a close call. All my spark plugs are easily accessible, perhaps even easier to access than before when the factory heat shields were in the way.

A noticeable difference in mid-to-upper power was immediate and it sounds a little meaner than before. I recommend these headers to anyone shopping for shorties. They're stainless steel to boot!

Now, for the EFI Edelbrock intake . . .

I installed some Ford Motorsport shorty headers on my 1990 5.0 Bronco last night. It took about 2.5 hours to do, not including taking my time to fabricate some mounting brackets for stuff that was previously bolted to the manifolds. It was a piece of cake and did not involve removing any inner fenders--not even a close call. All my spark plugs are easily accessible, perhaps even easier to access than before when the factory heat shields were in the way.

A noticeable difference in mid-to-upper power was immediate and it sounds a little meaner than before. I recommend these headers to anyone shopping for shorties. They're stainless steel to boot!

Now, for the EFI Edelbrock intake . . .

Pics please !

Sixlitre

I'll post some pics after this weekend. Apparently, the gaskets I installed don't want to completely seal. I'm going to put coppers in, so will get a chance to get some pics of the install.

how much did the headers run you if you don't mind me ask'n?

mude1, let us know which gasket you get to seal! thats very valuable info :thumbup

I installed some Ford Motorsport shorty headers on my 1990 5.0 Bronco last night. It took about 2.5 hours to do, not including taking my time to fabricate some mounting brackets for stuff that was previously bolted to the manifolds. It was a piece of cake and did not involve removing any inner fenders--not even a close call. All my spark plugs are easily accessible, perhaps even easier to access than before when the factory heat shields were in the way.

A noticeable difference in mid-to-upper power was immediate and it sounds a little meaner than before. I recommend these headers to anyone shopping for shorties. They're stainless steel to boot!

Now, for the EFI Edelbrock intake . . .

Do you know the part number for those headers? I checked the Ford Motorsport headers on summitracing.com and the ones I found said they were for 5.0 Mustangs. Are those the ones you used, or are yours specifically for F150/Bronco 5.0's?

I got the headers off of ebay for $170. The description said they were installed by the previous owner for only two months. My 2003 Ford Motorsport catalog lists them as M-9430-T50 (page 116) for $299. The description says "1990-95 F-Series Truck and E-Series Van with 5.0L engine." There's a footnote that indicates they are designed for stock and "all GT-40 heads." They don't have anything listed separately for a Bronco, but they fit mine just fine. Two notes should be made regarding them: (1) the passenger side does have a threaded hole for a sensor (mine was plugged and my sensor is in the exhaust pipe), and (2) there is no air tube on these headers. I guess some vehicles came with air tubes that ran into the manifolds. My vehicle did not. For reference, Ford's tech line is 586-468-1356.

I initially used some Mr. Gasket gaskets, but could have installed them backwards. I assumed that the printed side of the gasket was supposed to contact the header, not the head. Maybe I just didn't torque things correctly (did go inner then outer bolts). I did not use any RVT sealant. The headers did lay flat on my straight edge before being installed, so they should be okay.

Here's a couple of pics of them installed now:
http://bejara.freeservers.com/leftheader.jpg

http://bejara.freeservers.com/rightheader.jpg

You can see that I did have to fabricate some brackets for stuff that was previously bolted to the cast manifolds.

Now here's a question: which way do these copper gaskets go on? Does the raised/printed side face the header or head? Also, I am going to put Ultra Copper sealant on to help seal things--am I supposed to put the sealant on both sides of the gasket or just one side?

Here's a pic of the copper gasket from Summit for reference:
http://bejara.freeservers.com/copgas.jpg

I'll take some more pics on Friday when I re-install them.

Thanks for the great info and pics, Mud E1. You're right, it does look like there's plenty of room to get to the spark plugs. I wonder if they'll fit an 86, even though it says they're for 90-95 F150's. I'll call the Ford folks at that number you posted - thanks!

As for the gaskets, I have no idea as to which side they're supposed to go on. I've installed a header before on a Toyota engine, but I've never done one on a Ford engine, and I've never had to use any kind of sealant - just the factory gaskets. I would think the side with the lettering should face out, just like you thought, but I don't know. There was a thread around here discussing how well the Ford Motorsport gaskets worked, but the discussion centered more on oil pan and valve cover gaskets, if I remember correctly. If there's a Ford Motorsport exhaust manifold gasket, maybe that would work well without leaks or the use of any kind of sealant. I've also heard that some sealants are not "sensor safe" and may affect the O2 sensor, but I don't know if that applies to Ford O2 sensors, assuming what I heard is in fact true. If it is true, then you might want to use a "sensor-safe" sealant if you think you need one, but my uneducated guesstimate is that a good quality gasket should be all that's needed. Maybe someone with more experience will chime in on that.

Thanks again,

nice and clean DAMN MUD E1!!! about a week to late i just got my summit headers in the mail monday. well hopefully i wont have to fu%$ with the plug's for a while. nice work though how hard were they to install?

Clicky here! (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=248909#post248909)

MUD E1 my header's look just like your's insalled them this week except for having a slight exhaust leak i love them. the paint they used sure was worth a damn on my 200 mile trip from L.A. to Hanford CA the paint is just about gone on both sides, so it looks like i'll be looking for some one to ceramic coat them.

hey 4xPepe` i dont think you have to have the 45* angle plug wires. i have the straight universal ones and they can be bent to almost any angle. just something i found out. :thumbup

a couple little tips-

easy one- powerwash your engine bay!!!!!!! i don't think i'd ever do headers/cam swap etc. with an engine bay that dirty.... tell you've been out wheelin :D

tip #2 take out the plugs so there isn't risk of cracking one in the head.

^ i don't know how well it works because all i ever do header swaps into are tight fitting little camaro's, trans am's, and mustang's which we seem to keep a bit cleaner then that :p

Joined Pepe's header revolution !

Ordered the Summit shorty headers for the 302 last night, they're on their way !

Figured If I tried to change my 19 year old original 02 sensor I bust it off and/or ruin the manifold, so it made $159 a pair look pretty cheap. Once they arrive I'll just screw in a new Ford 02 sensor myself once the headers are attached up to this Y-pipe already on my motor

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=115348&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

things already flow nicely with this system, but I'm sure the shorties will help this along.

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=17318#content

I've got to check in at the local plater's to see how much for Ceramacoating. If it's too much, they're going in bare ! At that price I can afford new ones every 5 years !

Thanks for the inspiration Pepe !

Sixlitre

p.s./
Think I'm gonna use Mr.Gasket Ultra seal header gaskets coated in that high heat sensor sensative Permatex gasket goo. My mechanic buddy told me to use it at my header flange connections and he was right, they've never leaked yet.

I used POR on my headers for my mustang. They have a high temp paint that must be baked on or you can start the motor and run it till the headers just start to smoke and shut it off and repeat until no more smoke. This is the only high temp paint I have ever used that has last this long. It's been over two years on the mustang but of course this car is not driven daily. They aslo recommend that the headers be sand blasted first. This gives the POR something to hold on to.

Good job Pepe. I live by an old addage. Nothin' to it but to do it. There's nothing that can't be done with the right preperation and determination. Oh, and this site helps too. :thumbup

But I cant wait to see the wite up on the spark plug replacement :duh
That looks like it will be a bitch!

I now know Iwont buy that brand of header.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

Like Pepe already said in this thread

Compared to my stock 86's manifold heat shields, I can't see how it could get worse changing plugs

Sixlitre

so if i put these headers on my 93 will they fit right onto where the manifolds used to go into or do i need a new y pipe and i live in nj adn wana replace the 2 cats wat kinds and size cat will replace it adn pass emissions what company y pipe should i get and where do i get a new o2 sensor

any one no?

They will fit where the stock manifolds were. They are a bolt on including the EGR valve pipe for California emmisions. I found out after delivery that they are still not street legal on California street legal vehicles with smog devices. I have not yet put them on my Bronco since I have been chasing other problems and had to put it off.

Just picked mine up at the post office this afternoon !~

Can't wait to get them on ! More importantly I want to replace that 19 year old 02 sensor.

Sixlitre

Just got the Summits back from the ceramacoaters

Whadda ya think !?

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=129861&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=129867&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

Hey Fireguy

Check out the way the ultraseal gaskets already fit the header so you don't have to trim for plug access.

Dying to stick em' on, maybe start tomorrow. I need an 02 plug off screw for the other side, gotta try NAPA tomorrow.

Dang Six... those look sweet!
Wish I'da had the time and $$$ for mine!

Looks like this writeup has been real busy... that's a good thing! :rockon

It looks awsome. Who did the coating? What did it cost?

Dang Six... those look sweet!
Wish I'da had the time and $$$ for mine!

Looks like this writeup has been real busy... that's a good thing! :rockon

Thanks Pepe

You really started something here ! I grabbed some short stock Ford studs and brass nuts so I can try to keep all my stock intake and airbox braces held up. Just gotta find an 02 plug off screw tomorrow.

BigNorm

A local Canajian outfit called RLD industries did it for me. A couple of guys there used to play Thursday night volleyball at my place years ago(when us old men thought we could still jump).

They normally charge $200 CDN ($140 American), but they gave me a substantial reduction because they were so short.

Sixlitre

Talk 'em into a FSB Discount! :thumbup

Thanks Pepe

You really started something here ! I grabbed some short stock Ford studs and brass nuts so I can try to keep all my stock intake and airbox braces held up. Just gotta find an 02 plug off screw tomorrow.

Sixlitre
I think I may have one... but probably not worth the trouble to send.
So... you gonna finish what this write-up started when your done, so I can see what I need to do to finish the job? :toothless :brownbag

I think I may have one... but probably not worth the trouble to send.
So... you gonna finish what this write-up started when your done, so I can see what I need to do to finish the job? :toothless :brownbag

Hopefully I'll find a plug today and get cracking.

I'll try to add a couple of things if I find any. This is already the best header thread by far, that's why we're all here diggin' on it.

Take a bow Pepe !

Sixlitre

hey im gona get summit shorty headers for my 93 302, will the gasket it comes with worked ok? or wats the part number for a better quality one. also what kind of spark plugs and wires do you guys suggest

I swear by Taylor Spiro Pros. They are an 8MM wire. Kind of spendy but worth it IMO.

hey im gona get summit shorty headers for my 93 302, will the gasket it comes with worked ok? or wats the part number for a better quality one. also what kind of spark plugs and wires do you guys suggest

xmeinherzbrennt

Any header gasket will work, but for how long is the question. I've had great luck with the ultraseal head gaskets. Go here to get the Mr.Gasket part number I'm using;

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=18404#content

I agree with BigNorm on the Taylors, he and WD-40 talked me into them and I've never been happier. I'll let you know how they fit around the new headers.

the summit shorty headers have the hole or whatever it is that the EGR line goes to?

The ones for 302s

have a welded on threaded sleeve to accept an 02 sensor on each side. I had to block off the driver's side with an expensive little bolt available at NAPA because 86s have only one 02 sensor on the passenger's side.

The 351 headers have the requisite EGR pipe on the passenger's side too because that's where their stock pipe picks up the gases to take them to the EGR, like you suspected.

Sixlitre

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45854&toggle=fullsize

Check these beauties out;

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=130133&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

look at all that plug wire clearance and plug access is actually improved over a stock EFI 86 302 !

Check progress pics here;

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=18404#content

Nailed all the progress you see there in 3 hours tonight, from pulling in the truck to both headers on. Took a break to go catch a flick because it's cheap night at the movies and this Scotsman can't pass up a deal.

I'll finish her up tomorrow. Big thanks Pepe for all the encouragement, tips and pics. You shaved hours off the job for me

Mucho Appreciation !

Sixlitre

The pleasure was all mine Six!
Hell... I'm gonna :cry cause yours look so much sweeter!
Oh well... next time I won't do it in such a pinch and do it right, like you are! :drinkbud

i have a 93 302 does it have that egr pipe going to the manifold?

and do the summit shorties have the holes for the egr line?

open your hood and find out!

i looked i cant c nethign going to them but i was told thye do, thast y im confused adn i dont know if the summit shorty headers for a 93 with a 302 has that thing for the egr line to go to

hey my summit shortys came today and i got the old manifolds off, this fourm helped so much, any way the headers have the bungs for the o2 sensor i think my only o2 sensor is rite b4 the first cat so should i just plug off the two bungs or take the o2 sensor out of the exhuast and putt a plug in there adn put the o2 sensor in the header, by the way i gota 93 302

If your 02 sensors are in the Y-pipe

keep em' in the stock spots and block off the header bungs. On my 86 (and 85s too) I put the sensor in because ours are screwed right into the R/H manifold.

Sixlitre

wat kjind of plug is it for the header bung? also should ii clean the rust off where hte old manifolds came off and how. another thing is on the drivers side there was somthing connected to the manifold by the dip stick, and on the passenger side there was also a couple things bolted onto the manifold should i blot them onto the header?

theres also some kind of braket on the drivers side towards the front of the manifold should i bolt it on with the header?

theres also some kind of braket on the drivers side towards the front of the manifold should i bolt it on with the header?


Do like I did and use a stock stud in place of the header bolt in that one hole to support the brace bar. I had to touch the bars against a grinder mildly just to clearance them enough allow the braces to clear the header pipes. Here's the same idea on the passenger's side for you to check out;

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=130201&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

Check out the rest of the install here;

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=18404#content

As for the bolt size, they boys at NAPA never did divulge the thread size and I guessed it wrong at the fastening store. The people at NAPA will be only to happy to bend you over the counter and sell you two.

Sixlitre

does anyone in jeresy know where i can get mine coated like that?

taylor spiro pros are the spark plugs or wires? i need to know what kind of plugs to get

o and does any one know if the hedders MUST be torqued to a certain amount?

o and does any one know if the hedders MUST be torqued to a certain amount?

I've been putting headers on Mopars, British stuff and lots of other vehicles for 25+ years and must have forgotten that I once must have lloked for the torque specs.

Nowadays it's all about how it feels under hand pressure. I'd be guessing you'd be okay using the stock manifold torque specs found in your Haynes manual. If that doesn't suffice you could e-mail Summit and get their specs/advice or Mr.Gasket on their specs.

The Taylor Spiro Pros are the wires I was recommended to use by people here. They work great and are reasonably priced. As for plugs, I'm trying my first Autolites. I'm ashamed to admit that normally I run A/C Delcos.

Can't help you on the Jersey question, though if Ottawa, a town of only @ million people has a place, jersey must have several. Check the 411 directory on-line under industrial coatings.

Get her done

Sixlitre

thanx alot sixlitre, so the autolites fit nice with these headers? is it a specifc kind of autolites or if i jsut got to pep boys and ask for autolites spark plugs they will give me the right thing

thanx alot sixlitre, so the autolites fit nice with these headers? is it a specifc kind of autolites or if i jsut got to pep boys and ask for autolites spark plugs they will give me the right thing

I got mine at a jobber, just asking for my stock application. If your countermen aren't the brightest bulbs on the porch, go to the Autolite website and check your application or phone two other places just to cross reference.

Anybodies plug will fit nicely, as you can see by the photos of the socket on the tough cylinder on each side. I'm just giving Autolites a chance to outshine the Delcos.

Sixlitre

so i dnt have to b worried about the plugs fiting its the plug wires that i need to fit?

so i dnt have to b worried about the plugs fiting its the plug wires that i need to fit?

There are only two real sizes of plugs, we have the ones that a deep 5/8" socket takes out. That said you need to get the right ones listed for our application, sold by every different plug manufacturer.

As for wires, those have the stock 135 degree boots, so any stock "style" wires for our stock application would work. I've used accel, jacobs (when I was richer), ford and these.

Sixlitre

i got my autolite spark plugs, and ofcorase the dickhead adn the part store had no idea what permatex high heat selant was, and the other dickheads at napa tell me they dont have the plug for the headers o2 sensor bung

sixlitre what did you pay for the o2 plug off screw?

i got my autolite spark plugs, and ofcorase the dickhead adn the part store had no idea what permatex high heat selant was, and the other dickheads at napa tell me they dont have the plug for the headers o2 sensor bung

Just for you I took a search party into the far reaches of the back seat, past the cooler, over the cables and down the hall and found the NAPA receipt (and a whole pile of other things too!).

The NAPA number, mind you this is a Canadian number, is 26504. Next box listed under catagory LN is UNX, description is "02 sensor plug".

I ain't divulging what I had to pay to get that, as I got bent over the counter. As for a jobber that doesn't stock Permatex, time to find another auto store !

Sixlitre

i just used these brass plugs that this part shop had they kind of jiggled around when screwed in so im kinda worried i used permatex ultra copper on them, i got the headers on now i put ultra copper on both sides of the gasket, rite now its just open headers adn it back fires alot would jsu the fact that its open headers make it back fire? it doesnt seem like there leakin on the heads

i just used these brass plugs that this part shop had they kind of jiggled around when screwed in so im kinda worried i used permatex ultra copper on them, i got the headers on now i put ultra copper on both sides of the gasket, rite now its just open headers adn it back fires alot would jsu the fact that its open headers make it back fire? it doesnt seem like there leakin on the heads

You need to get a plug that is the correct size for the hole. Why not try an old O2 sensor? And yes, you can expect a lot of noise when you're running open headers.

i just used these brass plugs that this part shop had they kind of jiggled around when screwed in so im kinda worried i used permatex ultra copper on them, i got the headers on now i put ultra copper on both sides of the gasket, rite now its just open headers adn it back fires alot would jsu the fact that its open headers make it back fire? it doesnt seem like there leakin on the heads

Open headers will back fire on anything short of a real live race engine, so don't worry, just get the Y-pipe back on asap.

Sixlitre

i would use an old o2 sensor if i had one aculy i would need 2, i jus started it up and it doesnt seem like its leaking anywhere not even in the o2 bung

You can use an oil drain plug to fill the bungs w/. I think the size is M18 or something. Go to the parts store; get the thread measurement off the O2 sensor for your application and match it up with the right drain plug. Too easy.

i would use an old o2 sensor if i had one aculy i would need 2, i jus started it up and it doesnt seem like its leaking anywhere not even in the o2 bung

I don't know how you can tell if it's leaking or not when you're running open shorties.

like i said it doesnt seem like its leaking i didnt say it isnt leaking

hey i conected the headers to the y pipe the other day and on the drivers side its leaking, are there supposed to b gaskets or somthin cuz i cant get it not to leak

hey i conected the headers to the y pipe the other day and on the drivers side its leaking

Where, at the head or the y-pipe?


are there supposed to b gaskets or somthin cuz i cant get it not to leak

At the head yes, at the y-pipe no.

Did you follow the direstions at the beggining of this thread?


3. When connecting the headers to the exhaust... hook up the passenger side first. This side is the closest to the CAT and has very little movement already... while the driver side has plenty of movement being so far from the CAT.

If you are having a leak at the Y where your headers meet the exhaust... :shrug
More details and pics if you can get 'em.

Did you follow the direstions at the beggining of this thread?


If you've read ANY of his posts in ANY thread, you know that he doesn't read. I don't think he even reads the posts where we answer his question posts.

Yea... kinda had that feeling too BigRic. That's why I was pointing it out to him.
I can understand wanting help... but if you don't help yourself, why waste our time. :twak

hey i conected the headers to the y pipe the other day and on the drivers side its leaking, are there supposed to b gaskets or somthin cuz i cant get it not to leak

Study up this superlong, superinformative thread, like the guys say. You can get asbestos looking tapered donuts to wedge in between the manifold ends and the Y-pipe but well engineered vehicles don't use them.

Only GMs use these and it's just to cover up for pi$$ poor engineering. In addition, when (not if) they burn out, now you've got a major gap between the pipe and manifold. Then you'll lose power, mileage and prestige(cause you'll sound like the thousands of beater Chevys that have exhaust leaks there).

Just loosen the 4 nuts off, loosen off all hangers and stick a jack under the pipe and gently jack up until she's fitting well. Try to tighten both sides equally as you go. Then re-tighten hangers.

Should work without those GM donuts (they're just there so muffler shops can make money off Chevies too).

GM= the best team money can buy, engineering 3rd rate results(with amazing consistency).

Sixlitre

hey i took it apart again and tried lining the y pipe up to both headers and i relized one of the headers the round end part that goes into the y pipe got crushed in from it being lined up wrong and tighting it down real tight, so i tried to line it up the best i could and used some permetx ultra copper on it and when i start her in the morning i hope i dont hear that leaking

yep its still leaking anyone got any ideas?

4XPEPE' - it's been three months now. Still like those headers? Just wondering cuz I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Do they look like they would hold up to hard winters of road salt? They love to use lots of salt around here. BTW, great write up. I'm printing it out as a reference. :thumbup

4XPEPE' - it's been three months now. Still like those headers? Just wondering cuz I'm getting ready to do the same thing. Do they look like they would hold up to hard winters of road salt? They love to use lots of salt around here. BTW, great write up. I'm printing it out as a reference. :thumbup

I'm a bit worried about that so I had them cerama-coated. Hope I get a few years out of them with our Ontario road salt up here.

I still like mine and yes there is a decided acceleration increase and it feels a whole lot more effortless than before. That's saying a lot because this is only a 302.

As for mileage, I've got to be honest and tell you I'm up maybe 1, possibly two mpg, but that's not truly objective because I also put a new genuine Ford 02 sensor in at the same time.

Compared to breaking off my old 02 sensor in my stock R/H manifold and getting hosed for a new or used (very rare on 86s) manifold, the header swap was cheap at the price.

Admittedly I do have an almost indistinguishable exhaust tick that I'll have to find, but welcome to headers in general.

Sixlitre

Great write-up!!

I installed the same Summit shorties in April of 2002. Pepe was correct in rejecting the included gaskets.

DO NOT USE THE SUMMIT GASKETS!!!
starting in April 2004 they started leaking, first the driver's, fixed it, then a month later the passenger.,,,just fixed it. They broke apart like cookies!

SPARK PLUG HINT - I took the opportunity to change my plugs.

Here's a tip you'd pay me for! :clap worked on all except #4 , on that one I used a Spark plug socket with a universal swivel and a long extension.

Spark plug socket takes a 3/4 wrench at the top
3/4 wrench of choice is an articulated 3/4 Gear wrench.
Just shove the plug socket onthe plug then follow with the articulated wrench.
Works like a charm - changed 'em in 20 minutes including gapping. :chili: :clap

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile.php?id=136379&toggle=fullsize&filename=Spark plug wrench.JPG :chili:

ANOTHER SHOT OF THE ARTICULATED WRENCH (MY HERO). They havent been out that long.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile.php?id=136382&toggle=fullsize&filename=Spark plug wrench2.JPG

.....or, you can just use a universal socket.

Hey Bilzhorse, just saw this... the headers have been holding up great!
We don't have a big rust problem up here in the PNW, but I do get out and play in the mud now and then and with my body lift.... plenty of mud gets inside the engine bay.
I can't say anything about your conditions... but I can tell you this, if I had it to do all over again I would do the same thing! Looks like SixLitre gave you some good info too. Hope that helps. :thumbup

Thanks j.r.Nice, good to know I was on th right path, sorry to hear you weren't.
Those gaskets looked like nothing more than paper to me, and that just can't take the heat! Thanks for backing that up for anyone out there trying to do this too. :rockon
Nice tool there... got something new for "the List". :beer

I've installed the same headers on my 90 (2in Lift). Beats replacing the cracked passenger manifolds once a year, but I found the Summit product to be less than desirable.

Anyone considering this upgrade may want to consider a better header.
1)The tube's I.D. is too large for stock heads, making the gasket selection crucial (gaskets provided were unacceptable).
2) Another result of the oversize tubes is bad clearance the front bolts (one was worse).
3) You get what you pay far on the finish and thickness of the tubes, as well.
4) My engine runs a tad hotter, and header wrap would be a definite no-no unless you want more rust.
5) Fit was not exact bolt-on. You can bolt-on, but mine was in a bind. We had to add about 1/2" of pipe above the "Y" on the passenger side.

Most of these symptoms are common to all headers, but usually not all of them. The bottom line is, they work, but be careful with sealing and don't expect them to be pretty after 100miles or so. I've had mine for over 10 months/15000 miles. They still work, but have had to replace the NYLON! lock nuts that came with it to fix the first leak.

On the valve cover gasket, I use a nut driver w/out gorilla gripping to get the torque exactly right! However, I use the finned cast alum covers from an 84-ish Mustang.

Will the 89 headers fit an 84 302?(provided I get the ones for 302 not 351) I'm looking into get them done in time for inspection along with all the plumbing back.


THanks

I think the fitment is back to 81 or so, but I'd call Summit's 800 number to find out for sure. I know there are bung fittings welded to the Summit headers for various year emission hook-ups. Plugs are provided with the headers if the bungs are not used. Remember to compensate for the nylon lock nuts provided with the headers (throw them at a cat, use for fishing weights, or double-nut).

:beer

Sweet, thanks for the info. Will nuts and lock washers work OK? (I will throw the nylocs at a cat or squirl ;) I hate squirls)

When I installed a new passenger side manifold, the parts store provided hardware that included a brass nut. I'm told that is common place, as I was leary, but in 50k miles they stayed put, and didn't melt, etc.

Not sure about lock washers. Mine are already installed, so my lazy-man method will just have me put a second nut behind each nyloc nut. It's been about 2.5months since I did the re-tighten when I discovered the nyloc melt-down, and I've just noticed last week that the leak is back. I might suggest split washers over star washers if you do use lock washers. Double-nut just seems like a no-brainer, no hassel.

:drinkbud

Will the 89 headers fit an 84 302?(provided I get the ones for 302 not 351) I'm looking into get them done in time for inspection along with all the plumbing back.


THanks

They should, but like Kyle pointed out, you'll have 02 bungs to plug, as well as the EGR port on the right manifold.

I think the fitment is back to 81 or so, but I'd call Summit's 800 number to find out for sure. I know there are bung fittings welded to the Summit headers for various year emission hook-ups. Plugs are provided with the headers if the bungs are not used. Remember to compensate for the nylon lock nuts provided with the headers (throw them at a cat, use for fishing weights, or double-nut).

:beer

Kyle

Normally that's good advice, but when I called Summit they were unaware their headers (Pace Setters) would even fit one year back to my 86. Luckily someone here (maybe further back in this mile long thread) told me they likely would, and they did fit and perfectly.

Tossing the Nylock nuts is great advice. I bought brass and had to buy two bolts a 1/2" shorter than what they gave me for one side, the other side worked well with the supplied nuts.

Here's what they give you and below that is what I added so I could hold up all my EFI brace bars (with the studs).

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=129863&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg (http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=129863&original=1)

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=129869&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg (http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=129869&original=1)

Pepe's excellent thread here spurred me on to do the header install and it was so easy I wished I'd done it years ago. Read up on my own install here;

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=4970&s=18404#content

Can someone with a carburated 302 from 80-84 speak to the Y-pipe being the same as later EFI Broncos ?

Sixlitre

Six I did read your thread after I read Pepe's. That's what is driving me to the project I just can't wait till it's done. :)
And the info on the Y pipe from somebody would be very nice.

AFA O2 and EGR ports/holes/bungs they can all be pluged I'm also thinking of scrapping the air pump after I get my cat.

Six I did read your thread after I read Pepe's. That's what is driving me to the project I just can't wait till it's done. :)
And the info on the Y pipe from somebody would be very nice.

AFA O2 and EGR ports/holes/bungs they can all be pluged I'm also thinking of scrapping the air pump after I get my cat.


JSCart

You could call an automotive place and price an 81 Y-pipe (with cats) and then an 85 with EFI and compare the part numbers.

85-86 were the first years of EFI and didn't have anything in the Y-pipes(like later models) so they would most likely fit yours. If the Y-pipes are the same, you've got your answer.

Summit told me their headers were for 87 and up Broncos and may not fit my 86. That was hogwash, so if your 81 takes the same Y-pipe as the 85-86 models, you're in business as far as their headers go.

Good luck

Sixlitre

this might sound stupid but will headers for a 302 fit a 351 or is there a difference :rebelflag

There's a difference; the 351W headers have an EGR port on them and the 302 ones don't.

There is more to it than that but can't remember what it is. Something about the deck height of the heads. But I do know that headers for a 302 will not work on a 351.

The 302 headers will bolt on to a 351 windsor engine but will not have the egr tube outlet.

EGR Tube and header outlet... just to help out this conversation a bit. :toothless
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45856&toggle=fullsize

i am not worried about the egr because i have the egr eliminator but i just need to know if they will bolt up and if there will be any other problems

I was wondering what an EGR eliminator is. I have an 89 Bronco and was wondering how this works and how much?? Thanks.

FORDFUELINJECTION.COM: EGR Valve Position Sensor Eliminator (http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=61)

hey does anyone know for sure if headers that were bought for a 87 bronco with a 302 will fit on a 90 bronco with a 351.
I am not worried about the egr because i am putting on the egr eliminator liek i said. i got it from FORDFUELINJECTION.com and it was like $ 10 or something.
THe headers are hedman ceramic coated and i can get them for $150 i think.
the guy said that he paid $300 for them and if theyll fit i definately want to get them.
thanks for the help :rebelflag :rebelflag

thanks, what about for a 351w?

there is a difference. The 351 has an egr so the headers have an extra outlet for it. Other then that i believe they fit. No promises.

i recently put the same headers on, i got a custom y pipe, a catco cat, and a flowmaster, i havent hooked up a new o2 sensor yet becuase the old on was in the y pipe if i buy a new one for a 92 bronco will it fit in the header bung? also because of no o2 sensor and the air pump pipe isnt hooked back up to the new cat, my cheak engine light is on, but do you guys think that this would effect my mpg, it seems like i want from atleast 10 -12 dnt no for sure but now its about 7 or 8 mpg, thancks guys

i recently put the same headers on, i got a custom y pipe, a catco cat, and a flowmaster, i havent hooked up a new o2 sensor yet becuase the old on was in the y pipe if i buy a new one for a 92 bronco will it fit in the header bung? also because of no o2 sensor and the air pump pipe isnt hooked back up to the new cat, my cheak engine light is on, but do you guys think that this would effect my mpg, it seems like i want from atleast 10 -12 dnt no for sure but now its about 7 or 8 mpg, thancks guys

I wouldn't be doing any serious mileage loops until the 02 sensor and air pump are hooked back up. The mere fact the check engine light is on indicates the computer ain't able to do it's best.

If the 02 sensor is keeping the computer in the dark as to what's going on downstream the computer surely can't give you it's best and may well be in some mileage sacrificing limp mode.

My 86 sensor screwed right into the headers no trouble. Summit only stocks one weld in bung size for everyone so hopefully that means the threads are the same for all 02 sensors ?

When I put the shorties on the computer took about a week to notice and learn the new parameters and capacities of the exhaust. After that I noticed a fair increase in performance, though no increase in mileage, that came with the Y-pipe. The wide open throttle 1st to 2nd upshift also increased fully 300 rpms to 4800 rpms after the shorties. This did not occur with the Y-pipe changes.

What have you got plugging the 02 sensor bungs in the headers at the moment ?

Sixlitre

i didn have just to plugs that fit pretty good, but i finaly got the old o2 sensor out of the old ypipe and put that in the drivers side header the passender side bung hole is nearly imposible to get to so im gona cut the wires on the o2 sensor solder on longer wire and heat shrink around the solder, and i still gota so otmhing about the air pump

i didn have just to plugs that fit pretty good, but i finaly got the old o2 sensor out of the old ypipe and put that in the drivers side header the passender side bung hole is nearly imposible to get to so im gona cut the wires on the o2 sensor solder on longer wire and heat shrink around the solder, and i still gota so otmhing about the air pump


Any 02 sensor is a start

that should help the engine get back to normal with the computer. The air pump is secondary to getting that 02 sensor back on the team.

Jobbers sell a very nice, very heplful and very cheap air pump to cat kit you should ask about. Fixed mine up perfectly.

Sixlitre

whats jobbers?

whats jobbers?
Parts store.

whats jobbers?

Like BigRic said

local parts stores; NAPA dealer, Advance, etc. It's derogatory term thought up by stealership parts guys

Sixlitre

You installed your headers last June. Have you really been driving around this whole time without an O2 sensor?

no lol, i got a new bronco, that was a 93 i got a 92 now, i got the o2 sensor wokring again though, i couldnt get it in the passenger side header bung without taking the header off so in order to reach where it gets pluged in i cut all the wires from the sensor to the clip in the middle and soldered wires between them the make the o2 sensors wires about 7 feet long(rough guess) and i went shrank all the spots i soldered together then i had some1 hold one end(could have used a vise) and i twisted all the wires together and ran eltrical tape along the whole length off the wires installed the sensor ran the wires across the firewall and down to the where it plugs in by the y pipe, and zip tied it in a couple place ti ensure it dosent hit anything hot and melt, everyone that help me out thanks alot i apreciate it

no lol, i got a new bronco, that was a 93 i got a 92 now, i got the o2 sensor wokring again though, i couldnt get it in the passenger side header bung without taking the header off so in order to reach where it gets pluged in i cut all the wires from the sensor to the clip in the middle and soldered wires between them the make the o2 sensors wires about 7 feet long(rough guess) and i went shrank all the spots i soldered together then i had some1 hold one end(could have used a vise) and i twisted all the wires together and ran eltrical tape along the whole length off the wires installed the sensor ran the wires across the firewall and down to the where it plugs in by the y pipe, and zip tied it in a couple place ti ensure it dosent hit anything hot and melt, everyone that help me out thanks alot i apreciate it

So is mileage up any with the 02 sensor back in the picture ?

Sixlitre

not sure yet just didn it yesterday il let u no once i fuel up in a couple days

sixliter, do you think pep boys or an autozone or advance auto parts have one of those new flange and pipe pieces? i have long tubes right now and its the triangle style flange and i need the ball type to go with the new summit shorties.

sixliter, do you think pep boys or an autozone or advance auto parts have one of those new flange and pipe pieces? i have long tubes right now and its the triangle style flange and i need the ball type to go with the new summit shorties.

Do you mean these ?

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/142152/fullsize/Picture%20018.jpg (http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=142152&original=1)

Hell yes, they better ! They're for stock manifolds (and shorties). Print off the photo or take the link into the GM trained bozos so they know what you're talking about. These are standard even on GMs

Sixlitre

ok cool. that makes it easier to do than going to the junk yard and rolling around in the mud tring to get a y pipe of a rusted up POS. thanks

Hey I am getting ready to replace some headers myself. I was wondering since I do not have a lot tools and some parts for this job because I want to save myself some money when I get my exhuast redone. Could you give me a list of tools and parts that you used. I heard there was some sort of coating you can put on the headers to reduce heat in the engine carptment a little what is that called or do you know of any? I am also replacing my spark plugs and ignition wires too, I'll do it at the same time I install my headers because well it just seems easier that way. I just want to hook up my headers make sure they are on there and working then have the muffler place do the rest of the system since I can't weld. A list of tools and parts would be greatly appreciated.

ok cool. that makes it easier to do than going to the junk yard and rolling around in the mud tring to get a y pipe of a rusted up POS. thanks

If those are what you meant

I believe they cost @$11.00 each in Canadian, so the change in your ashtray should cover them. Add them together, with the Flowmaster Y for @$38 American

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/142149/fullsize/Picture%20010.jpg (http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=142149&original=1)

and a $3.00 header flange, and all you have to do is get the pipes bent up in between and you've got yourself one pretty efficient Y-pipe to bolt a cat or whatever to.

Sixlitre

well i tried Napa, Autozone, advance, and carquest and none had them. they all wanted to sell the whole stock Y pipe and converter. i found the 3 inch collectors into a 2 1/2 pipe at jegs and got a set though them.

well i tried Napa, Autozone, advance, and carquest and none had them. they all wanted to sell the whole stock Y pipe and converter. i found the 3 inch collectors into a 2 1/2 pipe at jegs and got a set though them.

Ask to see their Maremont and/or walker catalogs

I'm sure they have them in there

Sixlitre

Hey I am getting ready to replace some headers myself. I was wondering since I do not have a lot tools and some parts for this job because I want to save myself some money when I get my exhuast redone. Could you give me a list of tools and parts that you used. I heard there was some sort of coating you can put on the headers to reduce heat in the engine carptment a little what is that called or do you know of any? I am also replacing my spark plugs and ignition wires too, I'll do it at the same time I install my headers because well it just seems easier that way. I just want to hook up my headers make sure they are on there and working then have the muffler place do the rest of the system since I can't weld. A list of tools and parts would be greatly appreciated.

…little thread resurrection here…

I’m almost in the same boat as David here (although he has a 302) – I’d like to do the headers/plugs/wires myself and get the shop to do the rest on my ’96. I don’t have a welder and haven’t welded in…sheesh… over 10 years…

I’m looking at ceramic-coated shorties (like Sixlitre’s) or eq. length Bassani’s. I don’t know if I really need to change the Y-pipe or not. I aim to have the shop do the rest with single hi-flow cat (no worried about legalities), 3” pipes and whatever decent muffler is the flavor of the day.

That being said (and re-reading this monumental post several times), any advice on part shopping to save a few bucks and a little time would be appreciated.

Here’s what I gather from this post that I need to pick up:

PB blaster
Copper gaskets
Copper gasket RTV (Thanks for the write-up, Mud E1)
Plugs
45 deg plug wires
“Crow foot” style wrench sockets
oh yeah… milk crates!

PROPS again to Pepe, Sixlitre and Mud E 1 for their brain, mechanical and computer skills!!! :thumbup

…little thread resurrection here…

I’m almost in the same boat as David here (although he has a 302) – I’d like to do the headers/plugs/wires myself and get the shop to do the rest on my ’96. I don’t have a welder and haven’t welded in…sheesh… over 10 years…

I’m looking at ceramic-coated shorties (like Sixlitre’s) or eq. length Bassani’s. I don’t know if I really need to change the Y-pipe or not. I aim to have the shop do the rest with single hi-flow cat (no worried about legalities), 3” pipes and whatever decent muffler is the flavor of the day.

That being said (and re-reading this monumental post several times), any advice on part shopping to save a few bucks and a little time would be appreciated.

Here’s what I gather from this post that I need to pick up:

PB blaster
Copper gaskets
Copper gasket RTV (Thanks for the write-up, Mud E1)
Plugs
45 deg plug wires
“Crow foot” style wrench sockets
oh yeah… milk crates!

PROPS again to Pepe, Sixlitre and Mud E 1 for their brain, mechanical and computer skills!!! :thumbup


whoa lots of questions there desertbug

Thanks for the compliments. The regular Ford style 135 degree plug wires work the best for me. Yes my Summits did have great plug access, better than stock, but I'm a 302. Pepe clearly states his 351 lost quite a bit of access.

All shorties are designed to bolt up to a stock Y-pipe so you can drive it to the muffler shop, or drive it until your visa is healthy again.

Seeing you're a 351 that counts out Streetgang's discovery of that supercheap Catco twin Y-pipe for you.

That leaves you with the costly, but quality Bassani Y-pipe or getting the muffler shop to fab up something like mine.

If that's the route you're going to take then add that $34 Flowmaster Y connector to the shopping list and some 3" header flanges too so you can add stuff easily later.

No question in my mind, and experience, the stock Y-pipe is the biggest problem in the system.

Sixlitre

:stupid on all counts! :thumbup

Nice job Pepe'. Appreciate ALL the pics, makes our lives easier.

Been there... thought I'd return the favor! :thumbup
Never imagined it would get as much appreciation as it has.
However... this entire thread had taken on so much more, with the help of Sixlitre and others. :rockon

Been there... thought I'd return the favor! :thumbup
Never imagined it would get as much appreciation as it has.
However... this entire thread had taken on so much more, with the help of Sixlitre and others. :rockon

Thanks Pepe

But it was you, and your pics and write up, that inspired the rest of us to get off our butts and do it.

The best part, for me, was it helped this 86er avoid the dreaded "busted off in the manifold 02 sensor" dilemma. For 86ers, these headers actually make sense money-wise compared to the arse-reaming that awaits an 85-86er if he/she busts off an 02 sensor in the passenger's side manifold.

While I didn't notice a mileage increase, there was definately a power and acceleration increase.

Take another bow Pepe !

Sixlitre

Hows the life on those hedders holdin up pepe?Im about to tackle my 90 this weekend along with a full exhaust setup....im kinda considering these.What are you .02 on the quality on those hedders?

I'd have to say that these headers have held up most impressivly so far.
Bearing in mind I have a body lift... so there's plenty of space for Mud, Dirt & Road grim to slip up, in and around my engine, these headers have been outstanding.
I have no leaks, no visible cancer and I haven't had to re-tighten these since the initial installation (considering these headers were installed on my old 351W and migrated over to my new 351W).
The only thing I would advise anyone of at this point is... they aren't pretty.
Once the paint burnt off, they got pretty ugly and have stayed that way.
Or... this way... (don't mind the finger :brownbag )
http://www.superford.org/getfile/105502/fullsize/Assembly%20(6).JPG
http://www.superford.org/getfile/105504/fullsize/Assembly%20(8).JPG

So if your looking to stay pretty, powder coating is something you might consider looking into. :thumbup Other than that... I've been completely satisfied. :rockon

nah, i dont go for purty under the hood...i go for functionality and reliability...the looks can stay outside the engine compartment.Thanks for the .02 pepe

I just installed the Summitt shorties in my 86 5.0L
Neither collector will mate with the exhaust pipe. On either side. And I had to weld in a bung to fit the O2 sensor. And plug the front EGR hole because my set-up is different in that respect also. Other than that, so far so good. I hope to find time tomorrow to get it to a shop and have them fit the collectors and finish them off. I didn't take out my passenger side wheel well though. I did drop the stock manifold through the bottom and installed the pass. side from underneath. Aside from distractions and a run to the parts store, the whole deal took about 4 hours.
Thanks for the write-up. It did help. I read through it twice before I got started so that I had a pretty good idea of what to expect I guess.
Peace out

Great write up Pepe.

I just replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 91. This involved taking a bunch of stuff off just to get to the covers. Not sure I am ready for something more than that right now.

I was thinking of doing headers, plus a new exhaust and some general maintenance while under there. Sure would like to take all the smog crap off. Would make things a lot easier to work on.

Im in the middle of this right now, i got my passenger side manifold off,ready to replace the plugs before i slip the header in BUT one little problem, i dont have an EGR pipe going to my exhaust manifold... the guy before me must have thought it would be a good idea just to plug it off and not run an egr? and also, my summit shortys didnt come with the EGR outlet like yours did pepe.... think i can just continue to run it with the egr plugged like it is? what do you guys think

I put the ford metal VC gaskets on my 93

Im in the middle of this right now, i got my passenger side manifold off,ready to replace the plugs before i slip the header in BUT one little problem, i dont have an EGR pipe going to my exhaust manifold... the guy before me must have thought it would be a good idea just to plug it off and not run an egr? and also, my summit shortys didnt come with the EGR outlet like yours did pepe.... think i can just continue to run it with the egr plugged like it is? what do you guys think


you got a 5.0 right i think your EGR runs on your intake not your headers, the 5.8s run on the headers.

that makes perfect sense now, still not sure why that hole on the passenger side manifold was plugged. oh well.. anyone else heard of the 88 302's running on the intake instead of exhaust?

ttt

A couple tips for those that haven't installed them yet.

Get a roll of heat wrap and a can of high heat paint to seal them in place. One roll is just the right amount to wrap both shorties. It will really make a difference in your engine compartment.

Replace the stock gaskets with a good quality aftermarket ones. The ones that comes with it are too thin and will likely leak soon.

Replace the stock bolts with allen head hardened bolts. They are so tight against the tubes you can only turn the stock bolts about 1/16th of a turn at a time. When installing them and if you ever have to remove them you will thank me for this one.

This thread has been a HUGE help to me, thanks Pepe!

Jeff

Okay, my headers are ordered. They should be in today so this morning, I decided to start getting the stock manifolds off. I have been PB Blastin the bolts for a few days and today, I can only manage to get a few out. I have tried just about everything and some won't budge. Anyone have any other tips for these?

Thanks-

Okay, my headers are ordered. They should be in today so this morning, I decided to start getting the stock manifolds off. I have been PB Blastin the bolts for a few days and today, I can only manage to get a few out. I have tried just about everything and some won't budge. Anyone have any other tips for these?

Thanks-

I used an impact. I did it gradually - loosen, then tighten. It also helps to pull the inner fender so you can use a long extension. You'll have to do it anyway if you break on off. Mine weren't horrible but I broke 1-2 on each side and had to drill one out.

Good luck

well, I've made a little more progress. First thing I did today was pull the pass. tire and fender well. Now, I have all but about 4 out clean. I only have one left on the driver's side and it has some kinda bracket (not holding anything, just attached at the 1st and 3rd bolts) that seems to have actually been welded to the 3rd bolt. The bolt is pretty loose, but it can't spin with that stupid thing attached. I'm probably just gunna hack it off tomorrow...

I just got all my parts to install the headers and i realized I had square gaskets and the headers have the oval flanges. Is this going to be a problem?
(95 302)
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/539127/fullsize/gasket.jpg

I put mine in today, I used high heat copper gasket silicone and went aound the header openings and lightly coated the header gaskets. I let it tack up to around 50% "tacky" then I tightened the bolts down. The squishy silicone leaking out tells me I got a pretty good seal. Now when they leak and I have to change the gasket I can spend two hours scrapping all that crap off, but I done this in the past and it sure seals nice.

I took 90beater's advice and heat wrapped my headers to reduce up the "under the hood" temperature too.

The summit headers I received were slotted on 1/2 of the bolt holes, so if you start the bolts on there you can tighten them to about 90% with a socket and rachet and then slide the header up to start the remaining 4 bolts. It was so easy to tighten everything up I didn't bother doing the allen bolt trick.

A buddy helped me by holding the headers in place from below and I will tell you it would have been hellish without his help.

I never removed the inner fender well, because I am not reusing my exhaust, I just used a cutting disc and cut the flanges off and slid everything apart. Funny thing is I did the drivers side first and found it harder than the passenger side....maybe cause it took my an hour to get my groove on :)

Anyhow this post as mentioned previously helped me a ton, thanks ALL of you for your input.

Jeff

I just installed my headers today myself... the only problem I'm still having is mating the driver side header to the Y pipe- it's just too short... I snapped a bolt in half trying to tighten it up.. If I take a grade 8 bolt and use an air gun, can I squeeze them together or should I try something else?

Great write-up!!!

I know this is a really old thread but I just wanted to reply and say thank you because I found this thread via a search before I did my header install (weekend before last) and after reading this thread the install went as smooth as silk!! I got the stock manifolds off with no problems (not a single broken bolt :chili::chili::chili:) and got the new ones installed as easy as pie. I couldn't have asked for a smoother install. And thanks to the Mr. Gasket tip not a single leak.

Thank you to everyone that has contributed to this thread but