rear axle replacement [Archive] - FSB Forums

: rear axle replacement


asdaven
03-31-2010, 05:55 PM
Hi-
I have a Ford 8.8 rearend with a 3:55 gear ratio with axle code 19. The gears are going out in the rear diff, so I plan on going to the junkyard and pulling a rear axle off a Bronco or F-150 and replace it? couple questions. What should I look for in buying a rear end from the junkyard? Pull the cover off and look at the gears? Im going to be very picky about what i get. Now, I have a open differential now. Would there be anything wrong with putting a limited slip rear axle on? So, basically just remove the u-bolts, shocks, driveshaft stabilizer bar, and brake lines and cables? Then, throw the new axle on? Is there anything special I need to know? Any axle will work from a 87-96 Ford F-150 or Bronco right? Provided its the same gear ratio.
Thanks-

asdaven
03-31-2010, 09:49 PM
In addition, im sick and tired of having issues with drum brakes. What would be involved with putting disk brakes on the rear axle? Could I just pull some front disk brakes from a bronco and throw them on the back?

Mudhound
03-31-2010, 10:58 PM
Okay. The rear disc brakes can be done several different ways, depending on your wallet ( not MINE ) welding skills, and wether or not you are any good at D.I.T.Y projects. The rear discs can be done very similarly to the 9" style swap, using front rotors, longer studs ( most people overlook this part, and then wonder WHY the back wheels fell off. The original wheel studs are too short to use in a rear disc setup, and don't allow GOOD lugnut thread engagement. DUH!) and calipers/brackets from a ( sit down for this Ford lovers ) a GM 1/2 ton truck from the 70s'-80s'. You are mostly right on the swap from the F150/FSB fro an axle, but MAKE SURE that you check that the blocks under the back of YOUR Bronco aren't broken (mine are, BOTH of them), and if so replace them at this time. They set the pinion angle for your Bronco.

asdaven
03-31-2010, 11:17 PM
Thanks-
So, just get the parts for disc brakes and longer studs and thats all there is to it? How does the brake lines hook up and parking brake cable? As far as the rear end, what should I look for at the junkyard to make sure im getting a good rear end? Is the limited slip a good idea?
Thanks-

Mudhound
04-01-2010, 04:48 AM
If you do the rear disc on the "cheap" you lose the parking brake as you have nowhere to hook the cables on to. This is one of the downsides to "cheap" rear discs. IF you still choose to do this, you still need to figure out which caliper brackets you are going to use, "modified" front brackets, commercially made brackets, or what. This is one of the things that will dictate "how" the brakes go together.

As for the axle itself, one of the things to check is for "play" or slop in the pinion, ESPECIALLLY side/side motion, as this will help you figure out if the bearings are going out. the 8.8" seems to like to wear the gears down more than I am used to, so they tend to have quite a bit ( I feel) of looseness when you turn the pinion flange. About a sixteenth of a turn or less seems to be common ( hopefully, LESS ).The 8.8" under my Bronco blew out about a week ago because of excessive side/side play in the bearings. I got to replace the entire assembly, since it was easier than trying to rebuild the diff. This was when I found out that the blocks were broken in half. A L/S is a useful thing to have, IF it is still good. Otherwise, you get to rebuild it with new clutches/steels... This can be a PITA. The L/S is usually found in the Broncos, stock, and the F-150 that have a letter before the 2nd digit int he axle code, like H9, I3, things like that, for example. Good thing is that the CFC program junked ALOT of Fords, from what I have seen, and has replenished the supply of parts available to us, so finding a good axle should be fairly easy...

asdaven
04-01-2010, 08:12 AM
Could I use a Ford 9"? Is there a 9 with the same gear ratio (3.55)? And if I want to have rear disk brakes with a parking brake, what should I do? Is there any newer vehicle that I could pull rear disk brakes off, that would fit the Bronco, so I would have a parking brake? How do the brake lines hook up? Do I need to run new brake lines?
Thanks-

Mudhound
04-01-2010, 10:58 AM
You can use the 9" out of a 73 and up truck, no troubles. I missed getting one for my 89 by about 2 minutes, seriously. I passed a green chevy as I was slowing down to turn in to the guys' house, and he told me that the axle had just left in a chevy. #@*&%!!!!. As for the brake lines needing to be redone, I don't believe so, at least with the drum brakes. For a parking brake equipped disc brake setup, I "belive" that you have to buy a kit from places like SSBC, Jegs' and so on...

asdaven
04-01-2010, 12:51 PM
Well I heard something that you could use the rear disk brakes from a newer ford truck or an explorer? if you redrill the rotors to the lug pattern. What happens with the rear antilock with all this? And I heard something about a proportionating valve also? Or something like that?

asdaven
04-01-2010, 10:46 PM
Well i was talking to some people and I think drum brakes are fine when they are working well. Does rear disk brakes make it all that much better? I might just replace whatever parts are warn on the drum brakes and call it a day for that. Chances are ill transfer some of the brake parts from my current rear to the new one. So, sorta a rebuild. As far as the rear axle, I definitely want a limited slip. What is the best limited slip axle that will work and have the 3.55 gear ratio?
Thanks-

Mudhound
04-01-2010, 11:25 PM
I rebuilt the drum brakes on my Bronco when it blew the rear out. I allready had the shoes and spring kit, the drums were still good, so I simply said heck with it and used what I had. The best rear axle with a L/S and 3.55 gears would be from another Bronco, i'd say. The F150s' seem to NOT have the L/S as often for some reason. As for the ABS on your Bronco, you should be able to keep it working even with a disc swap, as the actual ABS "valve" is UP stream of the actual brakes. The only thing that you would have to watch for , if you choose to even keep the craptastic ABS, is that your replacemnt axle has the plug in the top of the diff. for the tone ring to signal the ABS. Personally, I ripped all of that crap out along time ago, like the first week that I HAD my FSB. Never noticed a difference without the ABS.

asdaven
04-02-2010, 08:17 AM
Okay, I think im going to keep drum brakes. We'll see. Did Broncos ever come with a 9"? I was thinking get a 9" L/S axle with a 3.55 ratio? I heard that 9" was much more durable than the 8.8. I was wondering if even a chevy or dodge truck L/S axle would work? Just looking for the best L/S axle I can get from a junkyard.
Thanks-

lifeizhard102205
04-04-2010, 09:17 PM
The only thing that you would have to watch for , if you choose to even keep the craptastic ABS, is that your replacemnt axle has the plug in the top of the diff. for the tone ring to signal the ABS. Personally, I ripped all of that crap out along time ago, like the first week that I HAD my FSB. Never noticed a difference without the ABS.

doesnt that affect your speedo? i have a 93 that i'm playing with the notion of swapping the 8.8 for a 9" but i'm concerned about the speedo not getting the speed signal from the rear abs sensor if i do. what do you think?

Mudhound
04-04-2010, 09:39 PM
I don't know about your 94 Bronco, but the earlier models, like my 89, ONLY use the sensor in the axle for the ABS input. At some point, not sure when, Ford started using a tone ring setup for the speedo. I think that this has been covered before, but like I stated, I don't remember "when" the change took place, model wise.

As for the Bronco leaving the factory with the 9" rear, yep, sure did. 80-83/early 84 models had them. I have found out that you can use the 9" out of a 73 and up F100/F150 as a replacemant for 8.8" rear. The spring perches are correct, as long as you remember to pull it from a 4x4, as the 2wd use a narrower spring width (2.5" v. 3" for a 4x4). Not sure about the shock mounts, though...

asdaven
04-04-2010, 10:03 PM
I think I might stick with a good solid 8.8. What about the clutch packs on the L/S rear diff? What happens when they wear out? Does it make the two axle locked or does it basically turn into a open diff?

brO_J
04-05-2010, 01:35 AM
You want an axle with a tag that reads 3L.55 that is a limited slip 3.55 as long as it hasn't been altered

asdaven
04-05-2010, 08:26 AM
Yeah, so what im going to do is hopefully find a low mileage cash for clunkers Bronco or F-150 at the junkyard with a limited slip axle, that has not been used for snow-plowing or towing and ill check for play in the driveshaft and axles, plus i ll pop the cover off and look at the gears and clutch packs. What happens on a limited slip axle when the clutch packs wear out?
Thanks-

BRONCONUT
04-05-2010, 10:00 AM
The abs sensor is for more than just a speedo it tells the tranny when to shift and helps with your breaking to. The 9 inch can be put in if you put on an external abs sensor.

asdaven
04-05-2010, 10:06 AM
I have the AOD transmission, not the E4OD. The sensor on my Bronco is just for the ABS I believe. But, I think im going to just get a 8.8 L/S.
Thanks-

Tony R
04-06-2010, 12:05 AM
What happens on a limited slip axle when the clutch packs wear out?
Thanks-

It starts to act like an open rear. It also will allow your axles to slide in and out about 1/8-3/16 of an inch. If the axle is off the ground, push and pull the axle laterally. Find one that has minumum movement. I have rebuilt the LSD 2-3 times, now I just live with it a little worn out. .

asdaven
04-06-2010, 09:21 AM
How does that make the truck drive then?

lifeizhard102205
04-07-2010, 12:32 PM
92 is when ford went to the vss/abs toner ring. basically if you have an e4od chances are you have the vss/abs set up. it sucks cause that thing is so unreliable and wears out and when it does you'll be doing 60 down the highway, hit a bump, the speedo goes to 0 and now you're in 1st gear until the computer realizes what happens and puts you back in 4th. ask me how i know....haha.
i'm still wondering what the cure for it is. i posted that several years ago and got a reply about the psom, which at the time was pretty confusing for me. i know i couldn't figure out the problem neither could the ford dealerships....either of them.
hmmm, i wonder now....do the f250's/350's with the sterlings have the same speedo setup i do?

joseph69
04-07-2010, 01:17 PM
I have an 86 with the 9. If you find a 351HO they still had them till 86. I would suggest the swap, many more parts and easier to work on. my 2cents :rockon

brO_J
04-13-2010, 12:45 AM
92 is when ford went to the vss/abs toner ring. basically if you have an e4od chances are you have the vss/abs set up. it sucks cause that thing is so unreliable and wears out and when it does you'll be doing 60 down the highway, hit a bump, the speedo goes to 0 and now you're in 1st gear until the computer realizes what happens and puts you back in 4th. ask me how i know....haha.
i'm still wondering what the cure for it is. i posted that several years ago and got a reply about the psom, which at the time was pretty confusing for me. i know i couldn't figure out the problem neither could the ford dealerships....either of them.
hmmm, i wonder now....do the f250's/350's with the sterlings have the same speedo setup i do?

The f-250 350 have the same VSS set up as you up until 98 then the went to super duty and I'm nvt sure how theirs are...

lifeizhard102205
05-16-2010, 12:20 AM
The f-250 350 have the same VSS set up as you up until 98 then the went to super duty and I'm nvt sure how theirs are...

so a full floating sterling 10.25 is basically a bolt on...just adapt the driveshaft to a bigger u joint.....nice.

cw95bronc
05-16-2010, 09:51 PM
I just did a rear axle assy swap from a JY 93 f150. Added new springs and drive shaft while I was in there. I got the 3:55 open diff. with 50k. I originally had a LS and and hated it. tried to keep the correct mix of friction modifier but to no avail. even changed it 3 times in 50k I put on it.

Mine had 167k and the inside of the diff was black as the ace of spades on the last change. I had blown a seal spewed oil all underneath it. I will not go back to the traction loc, might consider a selectable locker or a LS with no clutches next time.

lifeizhard102205
06-27-2010, 01:05 PM
ok so i have to ask this question cuz i'm looking at getting a dana 50 (super duty solid axle) front....do the 98 and newer sterlings have the same vss as the 92-96's? if not can the toner ring and speedo sensor be adapted for a REASONABLE cost?

highboy74
06-27-2010, 08:49 PM
+1 for the 9 inch, they were used up til 85 that i know of. But ford chevy dodge have always used what they had laying around i have a truck that according to the experts ford never made

Shadofax
06-28-2010, 12:32 AM
ok so i have to ask this question cuz i'm looking at getting a dana 50 (super duty solid axle) front....do the 98 and newer sterlings have the same vss as the 92-96's? if not can the toner ring and speedo sensor be adapted for a REASONABLE cost?

You need to do some reading.

I put a vss in a 78 D60 rear over 5 yrs ago and never a hickup. if you know what the heck you are doing you won't have an issue.

Smok3y
06-28-2010, 10:41 AM
I agree, go with a ford 9". stock are better than the 8.8's. You can pick up a POSI 8.8 out of any eddie bauer 1/2 ton truck, f150 or bronco.

Since you have a pre-92 you don't need an 8.8 with VSS. Also, you can grab a ford 9" out of 73-86 1/2 ton trucks. and yes they bolt right in, no modding needed.

(***for lifehazard***) you need to go here: http://www.streetperformance.com/parts/california-pre-fun.html
call california pre-fun, they sell a VSS relocation kit, and you won't have that problem.

Also, you can pick up the Visteon 10.25 but they aren't direct bolt in. I say go ford 9", they're cheap, reliable, tons of aftermarket support, and they're plentiful.