Rear Window Problem '90 Bronco

My tailgate window will not go up or down using either the dashboard switch or key-activated switch. I can hear the motor trying to raise and lower and it makes a clicking noise. I have removed the power window motor, and it does work. The window can be raised and lowered manually, and when the tailgate is lowered, the window will slide into the up position on its own (without motor assistance). When the tailgate is down and I push the window back into the tailgate, it will slide back out on its own. I have re-greased the regulator and the two tracks. The car has been sitting outside/unused for a couple of months. Can anyone recognize and help me with this problem? Thanks. :banghead

Just to help you out SEARCH is a great thing to see if you can find the answer first

http://www.off-road.com/ford/bigbroncos/tech/window-fix.html

I know its a dumb question, but how did you manually lower the window? I cant move anything even when i force it. The window is stuck up so im trying to get a better view to work on things. im pretty sure its electrical as i cant hear the motor running or anything.

Wow, a 4 year old thread.

To get my window down, I climbed in the back, removed the access panel, & ran jumper wires directly from the battery to the red & yellow wires to the window motor. Once it was down, then the tailgate would open & I could trace the problem easier.

Btw, today I used a Dewalt 18v battery to open one at the junkyard. Thanks FSB. :thumbup





The stuff below is cut & paste from an earlier reply, but it covers a lot of tailgate window stuff. Use what applies to your situation.

Does it make any noise at all? Like the motor's turning, but the window doesn't move? If so, there are torque pins in the motor's drive gear that commonly break & aren't too bad to replace. See the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below. If it makes no noise, then it's probably in the electrical system. Fireguy50's wiring diagram is linked below.

To test the electrical system, remove the access panel from inside the tailgate. Run test wires from the battery directly to the window motor connector (Yellow & red wires coming right out of the motor) to confirm that the motor works. To lower the window, it should be positive to red, & negative to yellow. Be ready for the window to move, keep hands & wires clear. Make all the connections but 1, then connect & disconnect the last wire quickly to see if it tries to go the right way. If it tries to go the wrong way, reverse the wires (This also makes it so that you can lower the window & get the tailgate open to continue testing).

A- If it runs & the window moves when wired directly to the battery, perform the following tests:

A.1- With both switches at rest, connect a tester between the positive test wire from the battery & each wire from the tailgate loom at the connector for the motor. Both should read 12v. If they do the ground is good. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

A.2- Connect the tester between the negative test wire from the battery & each wire from the loom at the connector for the motor. The red wire should read 12v when either switch is in the down position, the yellow wire should read 12v when either switch is in the up position. If they don't, refer to Fireguy50's wiring diagram linked below to trace it down, or tell us what you find.

B- If it runs but doesn't move when wired directly to the battery, in addition to your electrical problem, the torque pins in the drive gear are probably broken too. Run the electrical tests in section "A" above, & see the torque pin, Steve83's Tailgate Tech, & Adrianspeeder's links below for the torque pin replacement.

C- If it doesn't run at all when wired directly to the battery, it sounds like it's time for a new motor. See Steve83's Tailgate Tech link below & use the info for removing & replacing the motor.



Be aware that:

-The tailgate latch switch on the driver's side seems to be a common problem, check it early. Try pushing the driver's side of the tailgate in while holding the button or key switch in the up or down position. If that makes it work, check out Steve83's "How to align a Bronco Tailgate" linked below.

-Ground for the motor connects up front, & at rest runs from there through both switches & both wires to the motor.

-When either switch is operated, 1 side's ground is disconnected & replaced by hot.

-Ground for the motor is not connected to it's case, but supplied through the wires.

-There are seperate 2 power sources & 2 circuit breakers/fuses for positive. 1 for each switch.

-The same 2 wires are used throughout for both up & down (Polarity is reversed by the switches).

-When the tailgate is open, you have to close the driver's side latch for the window to operate. Remember to open it before closing the tailgate.



Some good resource links:

Fireguy50's wiring diagram (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9397), see post 2. Great color diagram, it makes it much easier to understand what's going on.

Steve83's Tailgate Tech (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/2742/12689-2). Great pics & info. Look through the entire section for the portion that applies to your problem.

adrianspeeder's pics (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/8571/28339-2) (He's doing torque pins for a passenger window, for the tailgate you don't need to drill).

Torque pins, motors, etc. (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51647)

Steve83's How to align a Bronco Tailgate (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69839)

Fireguy50's Re-wire your Tailgate window switch (FINISHED) (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7937) Upgrade diagram using relays.



On my truck there were multiple bad connections, so it was hard to isolate the problem. Someone before me used a ton of crimp connectors :doh0715:. Basically I ended up removing them & soldering all the connections, & eliminating the corroded plug to the motor.