here is my write up for on board air

http://www.users.qwest.net/~dustj44/yorkinstall.html

how much did the whole install cost ya?

I forget now but I would have to say somewhere along the lines of $300 bucks for everything, I did however get alot of misc parts from work

is it worth all that? what cost the most?

hell yeah it was one of the best mods Ive done.

If you use it alot like I do then its worth the cash. I will go out wheeling and air my tires down then be able to air back up faster than anyother portable compressor and I end up letting everyone else use my air. :lol:

the mounting kit cost the most

they probably dont make a mounting kit for my '82. but ill look in to doin that. cuz everybody that has it is glad they did it

is it worth all that? what cost the most?


It was worth every penny for me. Besides my arb, it's my favorite mod. When mine was over and done with I probably have 400 bucks into mine.
Bronco air kit=220
York=40
Coalescing filter=40
gauges=15
pressure switch=10
miscellaneous fittings,hoses,switches,wire=75

It's pretty funny watching the looks on peoples faces when I hook up a air hose to my bronco and help them with a flat or such.

oh I need a new pressure switch....any good places to get one


mine used to stop shutting the york off, now the other day it stayed on all the time :shocked:

try grainger or talk to Brad at Kilby Enterprises (onboardair.com) He is nice and has lots o stuff

oh, I have a write up too, but no where to host if. If you guys want it let me know.

they probably dont make a mounting kit for my '82. but ill look in to doin that. cuz everybody that has it is glad they did it
I'll be using my stock york and brackets that were part of my factory a/c when I do mine. If you don't have a/c, find a Bronco or f-150 with the same motor that has a/c in a bone yard. Get the york and brackets if they're both still there, or at least the brackets.

I am trying to figure out where to stuff 2 yorks under my hood!!! :cheers:

i have a/c but it dosnt work. could i still use it?

Probably. You need to find out why it doesn't work. Is it just the switch that's bad? Is it the clutch or the compressor? Maybe it just has a leak and doesn't blow cold air. If it's the compressor just get one at the bone yard and mount it on your brackets, then get the air hose and the other parts you need and you'll be all set. Any upright york comp will mount to your brackets.

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/2245/1422/huh.JPG

what is that? that has no belt goin to it. it looks like it should.

Yup, that's your a/c compressor. Looks like all it needs is a belt. But, it doesn't look like a york from the pic. Look for a label on it and see what it says on it.

i will as soon as i can. thanks for the help MM.

I am trying to figure out where to stuff 2 yorks under my hood!!! :cheers:

Don, any chance you can get me a few pictures of your engine? Mine doesn't have a/c, so I don't know exactly where the belts line up

that is your air conditioner
it must be hooped or else it would prolly have the belt on it

i have a york air conditioner and the brackets and an idler pully if anyones interested the brackets were off of my 400 thats now in the bronc

I am trying to figure out where to stuff 2 yorks under my hood!!! :cheers:

Don, any chance you can get me a few pictures of your engine? Mine doesn't have a/c, so I don't know exactly where the belts line up

I will try to do that tomorrow!!

Ya I agree MM, that doesnt look like a york, york would be longer, black and squarer, I think it mounts the same direction, except for that big plate in the front of the 82's, on an 81 it has this huge flat plate on the bottom and about 15 bolts holding it together. I definatly regret throwing mine out!! I was so gonna keep it too. When i get a 78 or 79 im putting OBA on it, whether it has AC to begin with or not. Anyways I wonder why its different in 82??

Anyways I wonder why its different in 82??
Maybe that's the year they started using the foreign compressors.

Ok, I know I am digging up an old thread...but I was searchin...like I am suppose to right? Well the link to the writeup does not work anymore so I thought I would post and see if the write up is still available anywhere?

I will see if I can find it...it was on an old cp that crashed and I lost eveything. I dont beleive If it saved somewhere else or not. i will check into it however

dustin link doesnt work

That was my point, the original link does not work, he is going to try and see if he can find the info....

I just picked up all of the stuff to get the York installed on my 84 300 I-6....since it had the wimpy one I went to the local junkyard and picked up a york mount from a 79 F150 supercab. It's a gigantic operation but should work nicely. All of the ford Yorks i've found so far (2) are the small displacement, while the fullsize Jeep ones are all big displacement. A simple coil & pulley swap and I had the FSJ one in place of my wimpy junkyard unit.
Oh, and I picked up a sag powersteering setup there too :)
OH, and a NP203 low range all for $50
Gotta love the junkyards!!!
It's starting to come together..
Doubler. Saginaw ps. Duraspark. Taurus Fan. 3G Alt. OBA. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
This site is great. It's given me enormous amounts of information I would of spent years finding out by trial & error.

syracing who makes a york bracket for in line 6?

they probably dont make a mounting kit for my '82. but ill look in to doin that. cuz everybody that has it is glad they did it

True, a BroncoAir kit won't fit an 82, but you could do a saginaw power steering pump swap, which remounts your a/c compressor on a new bracket and I'm pretty sure the BroncoAir will mount to that. Send Chris an e-mail to verify that, but I believe it works. :thumbup

syracing who makes a york bracket for in line 6?

It's a factory bracket...It took me searching thru over 30+ F-series and E-series to finally find a big six with a york. It's a huge contraption and mounts above the power steering pump.

what years 70-86? can you get me pics ?

i think I have the orginal on a cd. now just have to find it. I know I sent it to broncodriver and it got printed a few issues ago

what years 70-86? can you get me pics ?

Yeah, sure will.
Gotta find the cable for my digital camera...lol
Love my 300 :)
Needs EFI manifolds, Offenhauser C and a 390 and it will be setup.

81 should be the last year that came with a york... my 81' 302 did :thumbup

i think I have the orginal on a cd. now just have to find it. I know I sent it to broncodriver and it got printed a few issues ago

Any chance on an updated link? I'm looking to get started on my 95.
Thanks.
Tony

Any chance on an updated link? I'm looking to get started on my 95.
Thanks.
Tony

Yeah, watt he said.....:toothless I wanna start mine up also.

Thanx,
Allcruisen :imp :usa

heres mine. its also over on WT4x4.com in the tech section with two other OBA write ups. Its under sabreforce air or something, and I dont know why, as its not a saerforce kit, but thats OK.

Onboard Air for 94 Bronco
By Damon Haas


Well, as I have a disease, which involves spending lots of time and money on my ‘94 bronco, I decided I would go for some onboard air. There are lots of good write-ups out there, but none are too bronco specific. While most of the install criteria are the same, the mounting of the York in ours is a little different.
I started by pulling a York out of an 80’s Volvo. I actually had to pull 4 out before I found one that worked. You want to check two things before you purchase one from a junkyard. You need to check the magnetic clutch and that the thing pumps air. Take the wire that comes down the front of the York and put it to the positive terminal on your battery. Make sure the unit is ground on the vehicle somewhere. Yorks are self-grounding, so there is no need to have a grounding wire. When you hear the pop from the battery juice, the clutch mechanism should engage and turn with the pulley. The second thing you need to check is that it pumps air. To do this, either engage the clutch and spin the pulley or push in on the clutch and spin the pulley. When doing so, you should be able to feel a vacuum on your thumb when placed over the suction side hose, or hear air rush out of the discharge side. It also kind of makes a gurgling sound. Once these checks are done, you should be okay. Another thing you should note while doing these checks is that the pulley spins freely. I opted for the 10 series York, but they also have smaller stroked models that will work, just not as well


OK, so now you have a working York. Now you need to figure out how to mount the thing. The easiest place to mount them is on the alternator side of the motor. There is one brand of mounting system available through Sabreforce for the two bolt mounted alternator on the pre 92s. Jim makes a very nice quality mount, but does not make one for the 3 bolt mounting system on the later model alternators. Luckily, one of the listers had done all the work for me and had a bracket made and shipped to me off his design. It works pretty well, but admittedly needs a little fine-tuning. It mounts at the bottom of the alternator where the two bolts are, and goes vertical from there. There is an arm that attaches to the motor to help stabalize it, but I will need additional support for mine.



So now the York and bracket are taken care of and you need to start planning out your ‘system’. I added/needed the following (All prices are from memory, so shop around)
1. 2.5 gallon air tank – purchased at Kilby Enterprises. 60 bucks
2. Air Lines – I got mine CHEAP at Costco. 100 ft for like 12 bucks, used 50 ft
3. Coalescing filter- purchased at Grainger. 30 bucks
4. 3 way manifold, pop-off valve, Pressure Gauge, lots of fittings – purchased at Orchard Supply and HomeDepot. Not sure, but around 60 bucks
5. Pressure switch – purchased at Kilby enterprises or granger. 40 or 50 bucks I think
6. check valve – purchased at Kilby enterprises or granger 12 bucks
7. Double Pulley for alternator – purchased From Kilby for 40 bucks
8. New V style belt for 13 bucks at Autozone

This is basically what you need to make a system. I started with the tank, and there are several ways to do this so you need to pick the one that is best for your budget and style. In an effort to keep things simple, I bought a new tank from Kilby Enterprises. There are cheaper ways to do it using tanks out of semis, etc. or fire extinguishers or whatever. You can do this, I just elected to save the time and effort and spend 30 extra bucks as my patients were wearing thin by the time I got to the tank (I actually did the tank last, but knew what I was going to use). I mounted the tank behind the t-case and almost directly underneath the back seat. The tank came with mounting holes, so I just had to drill four holes in the flooring and buy the appropriate bolts. The hardest part of this install was cutting the heat shield for the exhaust system out of the way. Of course I could not find my cut off wheel for my grinder and did not feel like making a trip the local ACE, so I ended up using a combination of tin snips and my dremmel.
Next I mounted the York and started running my lines. I highly suggest taking the time and detailing your system out on paper prior to the install. I had a hand drawn schematic of how I wanted everything run and where all the fittings, filters, etc. would be. I then layed it all out on the floor before I installed it. This saved on the install time by quite a bit. Coming from the York, I put all my hardware inline. First was my coalescing filter I bought from Grainger, which connected to my check valve via a 1-inch connector. From there I ran a 1.5-inch connector to a three way manifold. From the manifold I ran 1.5 inch pressure gauge, a 1/8 inch line to a remote air gauge inside the cab and a 1/4 npt air line down and along the drivers side frame rail to the tank.


On one end of the tank is the supply line, and on the other ends four ports I have two lines coming out to either bumper, the pop off valve (pressure relief) and the pressure switch. ( sorry for the bad pic)




The pressure switch has the on/off switch coming from a relayed switch in the cab and a wire that runs back to the York to turn it on and off. One air line runs back up the driver’s side frame, into the frame near the motor and the female coupling sits inside the frame. I have a small piece of rubber sheeting inside the frame rail to prevent water and dirt from collecting there and protecting the female.




The back line comes from the tank, over the gas tank and through the plastic valence between the rear bumper and the bottom of the tailgate. I cut an X through the plastic to slip the hose through. What is nice about this is that I can push/pull the line out of the plastic to keep it protected and out of the way while wheeling, etc.




With this system, I can run air tools front or back, as well as fill up tires. I easily reset the bead on a 33-inch tire and can fill a tire in minutes. If you are not popular on the trail I highly recommend building a York system. You will quickly gain friends you never knew you had. I did have a few technical difficulties early on, however
The first difficulty I had was making sure all the fittings would work. The check valve I got was 3/8 while most everything else was 1/4 NPT. This is where detailing and laying out prior to install saves a lot of time and successive trips back to the Home Depot
The second problem I had was my own fault. I thought it would be cool to remove the double layer rubber pipe off the discharge side of the york and clamp on the very thin air line with radiator clamps onto the stock York fittings. Do you see the problem yet? I had to cut off the crimp on fitting to remove the old line. See it yet? Well, after the York would run for a bit and start getting hot, the air line I put on would blow right off the fitting. So I tried two radiator clamps. Still did not work. The line would get too hot and slide right off. So I am going to have a new line crimped on like it was.


Overall, I am extremely pleased with this system. It is a never ending supply of air, works fast and does not need to cool down like the electric units do. It is a fun project and costs around 200 to three hundred bucks depending on where and what you buy (new versus used) which is comparable to CO2 and Electric units.

Here is a list of contacts and other write-ups.
Kilby Enterprises www.onboardair.com
www.sabreforce.com
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/york_tj/part1/
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/body/york/
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/yorkair.html
http://small-business-help.com/compressor.html



Pics to go with the writeup

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267532/fullsize/unfinishedbracket2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267533/fullsize/unfinshedbracket.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267535/fullsize/yorkrackpainted.jpg

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267530/fullsize/bracketin.jpg

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267541/fullsize/yorkmounted.jpg

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/267534/fullsize/wholetank.jpg


A few things I would note now are that yorks can be found in 70's fords, and are usually sitting right on top of the motor and easy to get to. BUT, watch out that its a york and not the motorcraft unit. Not sure what the difference is really, but I know there is lots of discussion about it out there.

Ive also redone my plumbing a few times, and ended up getting a good filter from Kilby with an oil return line. i have tried the blow by fix, it its works marginally at best. You d be better served by the filter and return line than tearing apart the York, IMHO