Originally posted by familybeast
Another tre over flip is posted at http://broncofix.com/Tech/chev/Chevy%20Tie%20Rod%20End%20Swap.htm

It is really clean for those interested with a solid axle front (I am unsure if it would work with the TTB). I believe the taper is 7degrees. BC Broncos has another very affordable tre swap that uses the stock stuff mostly. Check it out at http://www.bcbroncos.com/ and go to the steering bushings. :cool:
I converted my '66 Bronco (5" lift) from the oem to F150 tie rod, and drag link from BC Broncos. I also bought the taped reamer from Chuck. It was soooo sweet:D With the over the top steering I was also able to go back to the standard pitman arm. :beer

Hm I wonder if I Should throw my stock arm back on I got it laying around somewhere...

I did the knuckle under and am happy with it. I got the TTB. I did not do what my earlier post said about making sleeves and using hiems, too expensive, and would have to buy metric taps. The proper tool, a tapered reamer from Goodson was easy to use. You do not lose much contact area between the taper and knuckle because you can go a little deeper than stock. I see no need to braze the knuckle to fill the gap. My steering rods are almost parallel with the axels now. This fix/upgrade might be too much with a 4 inch lift and a drop pitman arm.

I have revisited the knuckle under and made it better. I pulled the tie rods last week end to check it out. I found them to be tight, but with only about 1/2 inch of contact between the taper and new ream job on the knuckle. I previously stated a little over 5/8's.

I ordered a set of tapered sleeves from JBG. They are intended for the classic bronco so that they can run the better 78-79 D44 knuckles. They are a perfect fit to our size tie rods. I wipped-out the reamer, reamed a little deeper so the sleeves would fit down in, and bolted-up the tie rods again. The sleeves are 3/4" long so give you that contact area through the knuckle once you ream deeper, and there is no slack in the bottom of the knuckle. I feel it is safer and stronger now. I ordered off of the internet and put down a classic bronc as my vehicle. I did not want them not selling them to me for my purpose with the big bronc. Shhssh! Don't tell anyone they would rather sell you superrunner.

They are at JBG, 66-77 bronco, steering link, F150 Knuckle Conversion sleeves Part #12775. $25, cost me $32 with shipping. http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/13/34
My Superfordness: http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=3612

Damn! ball joint were the passenger side meets the drivers side got real loose after doing a difficult rocky trail. It was new! The tie rod ends are in fine shape. I did the knuckle under and beefed the rods with angle iron but the joint did not hold-up. I do beat-up on the steering because i'm running 37X12.5 MTR's. Got to revisit this one. Perhaps I go to heavier chevy 3/4 or 1 ton steering. anyone know if the taper is the same from chevy to ford for tie rod ends???????

Hey blown, do you have any pics of that??

Pic of knuckle under, also posted by two others on a diff thread. They rented the Goodson reamer from me, el cheapo, just help me pay for it. Read their post of go here to get details on how it works and why you might need it. Minimum of 4" spring lift to get results.
http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=offroadfordbroncolate&Number=1142128&page=5&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1


http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=72681&toggle=fullsize&f=Knuckle under.jpg

I'm blowing cash on the Superlift Superrunner set-up. Tired of screwing with this. It should be stronger and won't cost me anymore than taps, DOM tubing, and chevy chit. Hopefully less time involved too!

http://www.superlift.com/products/ford/ttb_steer.asp

I bought through Jeffs Bronco Graveyard:
http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/20/165/32745

Superrunner sucks

:shrug :mad: :boxing :twak :cry :thumbup :beer I feel better now.

Originally posted by Crazed
Superrunner sucks

If I'm sick enough throw more money at TTB:wacko :crazy :uhoh3 , then maybe you should leave me alone. Take your SAS and:goodfinge. But seriously, It will be better than what I have. Superrunner plus knuckle under! I want to :banghead against this TTB thing cause I like it. I've grown close to it. When I thought of how long I've owned a bronc and how many times I've replaced the complete tie rod or drag link because the joint got loose, this makes sense. Dang Superrunner is stronger. Screw this screwy "y" type stock steering.

Superrunner to rescue my 37's? YA BABY YA!:beer

I dont have a SAS...I am the guy who rented your taper with Juice.....My Brotherinlaw has the superunner and is not impressed.....Maybe you can buy his???

Oh heck! Pardon me (seriously), I thought you were going to do the SAS and the knuckle under was short term. I've been battling this one in my head and don't want to do the SAS. My Bronc gets me where I want to go. It just needs more work on the steering. I have researched and found mostly good comments about superrunner. I'm going to try it. The design is stronger at the inner joints and should hold-up to my 37's. I'm getting too busy at work to persue building-up something from beefier chevy parts or doing the SAS and don't want to pay for it to be done. I've ordered from JBG's.

I hope it works out for ya....my bro has a 4" lift, and the tierods are about level...with the 6" and knuckle under...I hope the angles are ok...may be close..


I will be doing a SAS...but it will be a while...Job first, then $, Then Engine, then SAS. :toothless

This is just my opinion, (not dissin'), but I personally wouldn't want to add one more tierod end plus an idler arm to a steering system for just that many more parts to wear out.

Ya Mtnman, but that means more parts to distribute the stress on = less wear and breakage. My broncs have always loosened-up a the inner joints. I've never had to replace an outer. I hope it works with knuck under and I did discuss knucky with JBG's. They think it will be about spot on. I could switch back to the stock pitman arm. If I can 't make it work:banghead , i'll sell it, and go with a heavy duty "y" set up.

Hope it works out for ya'.

gracias and thanks for the input!

Stock pitman arm wont work with a superrunner...it has the idler on the passenger side, and the pitman arm has to drop to the same level.

TRY LOOKING AT PERFORMANCEUNLIMITED.COM AT THE STRAIGHT DRILLED KNUCKLES, WHICH HAVE BEEN ROD ENDED,IT EXPLAINS HOW GOOD IT IS, IT IS WHAT I AM RUNING AT THE MOMENT!

jezzus crist! Lay off on the caps button, will ya? Thanks for the info, but DAMN!

jezzus crist! Lay off on the caps button, will ya? Thanks for the info, but DAMN!

:histerica You scared him off. He hasn't been back . . .

I have a 95 and a 69 bronco the 69 has a dana44 with a 3.5 lift. I made some tappered bushings on a lathe. then drilled the steering knuckle and pressed in the tappered bushing. It helps alot with sterring angles and may illiminate the need for a drop pitman arm.

i used the fluted reamer from bcbroncos.com

i was going to go with heims but i heard they would wear out and become sloppy alot quicker than tre's

fkn ayyy

hows my reamer comming along fawker :goodfinge

wats a reamer and a tapper

talk about digging up and old thread. a reamer opens up the taper of the knuckles because the studs on the road ends aren't straight but rather tapers from thin to thicker. the tapper (or tap if you wanna be precise about it) simply cuts threads into tubing such as DOM so you can screw the rod end into it

o a tapper is a tap? actuly i guess a tap would be a tapper

o a tapper is a tap? actuly i guess a tap would be a tapper

as in Tap and Die.