I gained 5.5" of lift. No factory wedge block or lift block. I used 1987 F-250 forward hangers from the rear leaf springs. :cheers:

Here you can see where I have no blocks at all.
http://www.texas4x4.org/albums/album33/MVC_186F.jpg

Here you can see where I mounted the new F-250 hanger 1 3/8" further forward than the factory hanger. I did not use the bottom hole in the hanger because I wanted as much lift as possible.

http://www.texas4x4.org/albums/album33/MVC_183F.jpg

NineInches.......Are you sure you will get 5"s' of lift, with the shackle lift? I was under the impression that it'll give you 4"s' of lift. You are gonna remove the wedge and spacer? I can see you removing the spacer but why the wedge? My.023 The only reason I am asking all these questions is because thats the way I wanta go, rather then putting the blocks in or even add-a-leafs. Thanx

Allcruisen

When a shackle flip is done the pinion angle will change. Losing the factory wedge block will point the pinion back to the aprox correct angle. This also gives you the advantage of the abbillity to run lift blocks without worrying about spitting them out durring wheeling.

Atleast thats the way the bronco god explained it to me :mrgreen:

This also gives you the advantage of the abbillity to run lift blocks without worrying about spitting them out durring wheeling. A small block if you need one,made of steel not alum. I wouldn't use a block without welding some flat bar on the perches to keep them from rounding and upgrading the ubolts.

You'll probably have to move the axle farther back.

Here is how the truck sits now.

http://www.texas4x4.org/albums/album09/Shackle_Flip_2.jpg

looks good. you have side pic of the wheel centered in the wheelwell?

N/M i see it.

You think it's vulnerable?

It did move the axle forward about 1". I will take care of that later on. I will also post a better side view pic tomorrow.

NOBS wrote Do you think it is vulnerable?

Yes, I do think the wheelwell is vulnerable to getting bent, but that is why I am seriously thinking about getting the sawzall after the fenders tomorrow. :cheers:

I meant the shackle ;)

Ya, the shackle is vulnerable, but I have no other choice, can't afford new springs

It does look like it hangs down there a bit...

oh well,you can always move it up alittle later when you get some different springs.These things are never finished :twisted:

If it doesnt work right I will move it up 2" and put 2" blocks in. Never know, just have to wait and see.

U put that new hanger pretty low - I'd gusset it in the future.

You can reinforce the shackle, too. It will reduce the chances of damage but it's always gonna be hanging down there. Worst case you'll just get hung up on it once in a while.

The flip is the most bang for the buck, extremely effective for what it costs you, but isn't perfect - just like everything else I guess.

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/33/139/Bronco_008.jpg

I don't wheel the bronco very hard, I don't climb 6' ledges or anything like that, so I think it will be ok like it is. If it does become a problem, I will move it up further on the frame and use the appropriate blocks to accomadate it.

I used my stock rear mounting brackets on my 78. I also used a set of Beltech lowering shackles in the mix to net about 2.75" of lift

What tools will I need to bring along to get a set of 250/350 hangers off? Are they riveted? What size drill bits are recommended?

Tim

nineinches, what size meats do you have 35's?

35" SSR's. You will need a drill with bits all the way up to 1/2" and some chisels and a BFHammer, or just pay them $50 for parts and labor and let them take them off, that is what I did.

What tools will I need to bring along to get a set of 250/350 hangers off? Are they riveted? What size drill bits are recommended?

TimGrind the heads off and punch them through

Thanks for the info. I am not sure how I would grind the heads off in the middle of a junkyard, can you bring a big extension cord? I was planning on using my cordless drill to drill them out.

Tim

Buy a power inverter,put a 12v battery on a dolly,grind away,take the power inverter back(next day) to point of purchase and tell them it's a piece of $h!t. :twisted:

Thanks for the tip! Now i need to go find them.

Tim

you would go through 4 batteries and spend ALL day drilling .. grinder is the way to go!!!

I had to drill out the bolts that hold the rear seat in after I broke 5 of the six :( Anyways that didn't take that long and only took three batts. I have a DC converter already so I was planning on bringing that and the drill but if you say grinding is the way to go then that is what I will do. Umm unfortunately I do not have a grinder. Can someone give me a recommendation?

Tim

rent one

loan a tool?

buy the cheapest no name brand .. look on ebay ..under tools .. you can find them for like $10- bucks

The best way to do it is to grind the heads off but instead of knocking them through with a hammer take a big pipe (like off of your hi-lift jack) and put it in between the bottom of spring eye and frame, then use it as a lever to seperate. The rivits will pop out. Sooooo much easier than using a punch!

What tools will I need to bring along to get a set of 250/350 hangers off? Are they riveted? What size drill bits are recommended?

Tim
A cold chisel and a 2lb hammer. Drills and grinders are a waste of your time.

Or you could just buy these for 100 bucks from Sky Manufacturing (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com).....

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/5584/3275/shacklehanger2.jpg
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/5584/3275/1.jpg
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/5584/3275/rightrear.jpg

I am really happy with them so far :hump:

badblack88.....1st off, welcome to our home. :cheers: How much lift did it give you? It looks awesome and for 100 bux it sounds worth it. I wanna do the same thing when I install my 4" lift thats sitting in the garage.

Allcrusien :pimp :gousa

those are really smooth. i know you can get junk yard parts for 20 to 30 bucks, but to me, its worth it so i dont have to waste all that time at the yards trying to pull parts.

what's the second hole behind the shackle for? does that give you more lift?

what's the second hole behind the shackle for? does that give you more lift?

what's the second hole behind the shackle for? does that give you more lift?

The brackets are identical, no left or right. So they are drilled for either side. You use the forward hole in either case. It saves them from having to keep brackets paired and makes getting a replacement hanger easier. I hope that is never needed.

Tim

I got about 5" of lift I think. The rear still sits higher than the front with my 6" sas in the front.

You use the forward hole in either case. It saves them from having to keep brackets paired

That's right. The stock brackets have the hole centered and these ones move the shackle forward about an inch for a better angle since the spring effectively moves forward when you flip the shackle.

makes getting a replacement hanger easier. I hope that is never needed.

It better not be. These things are made of laser cut 3/8 and 1/4 plate. The frame would break before these would.

bad black, when you used the sky brackets, did you have to reuse your factory wedge?

Looks cool.
Are those the orignal hangers?

Those are Sky manufacturing brackets. They are fabricated from 1/4" and 3/8" steel... no Ford metal at all.

Originally posted by GearHead
bad black, when you used the sky brackets, did you have to reuse your factory wedge?

nope :)

tim, do you have pics of your sky hangars installed??

i actually ordered those brackets today. the guy at sky said i shouldnt need them. i'll take a few pics of them when i get them in jer, wait, hopfully i'll have them on for our trip. then you can see them in person.

Post some pics of yours anyway. Do some before, during, and after pics.

I am still trying to finish my front end/engine projects (6" Cepek, oil pump, Saginaw pump, 35") once the front is done I am starting on the rear. I will take some pics at that point.

Tim

i'll post picks when they get here.

Originally posted by jopes
I used my stock rear mounting brackets on my 78. I also used a set of Beltech lowering shackles in the mix to net about 2.75" of lift Do they have a website?

I'm getting ready to do this myself and had a few questions. Has anybody placed the shackle mount to exactly compensate for the OEM block? What angle does the OEM block provide? Anybody know exactly how much you'd need to lower the rear of the spring such that the pinion angle doesn't change a bit? And, just how far forward did this move the axle?

One more thing. Has anybody made their own hangars? This is probably what I'll be doing. Just curious if anybody else had tried it. Badblack, Do you have any other (maybe closer) pictures of those hangars?

Originally posted by Lonestar_Bronco
Has anybody placed the shackle mount to exactly compensate for the OEM block? What angle does the OEM block provide? Anybody know exactly how much you'd need to lower the rear of the spring such that the pinion angle doesn't change a bit? And, just how far forward did this move the axle?

1. I guess I did since I'm not using the factory block/shim...but this is all dictated by driveshaft length and angle

2. I believe it's 6 degrees of correction

3. Is this a trick question? Let's see, to not change the pinion angle at all, you wouldn't lower the rear of the spring at all. Which is heavier, a pound of bricks or a pound of feathers?

4. dunno

Originally posted by Keith_L
1. I guess I did since I'm not using the factory block/shim...but this is all dictated by driveshaft length and angle

2. I believe it's 6 degrees of correction

3. Is this a trick question? Let's see, to not change the pinion angle at all, you wouldn't lower the rear of the spring at all. Which is heavier, a pound of bricks or a pound of feathers?

4. dunno


regarding your shackle placement ... did you move the mount forward/back at all? ... I will be doing my '86 hopefully next weekend

Originally posted by Keith_L

3. Is this a trick question? Let's see, to not change the pinion angle at all, you wouldn't lower the rear of the spring at all. Which is heavier, a pound of bricks or a pound of feathers?

I meant not changing the angle through the process. Say you remove the wedge. Ok, you now have negative 6 degrees of piion angle compaired to stock. My question was, how much do you lower the rear to compensate exactly six degrees? Which, if accomplished, wouldn't change the pinion angle at all. See where I'm coing from?

Out of curiosity, once you lift a truck, wouldn't you want to pivot the pinion up slightly? I know it would affect your gear oil level slightly but, wouldn't that help your rear u-joint?

Originally posted by Lonestar_Bronco
Out of curiosity, once you lift a truck, wouldn't you want to pivot the pinion up slightly? I know it would affect your gear oil level slightly but, wouldn't that help your rear u-joint?

This is *WHY* the flip works and allows you to eliminate the stock shims (:disclaimer: in most cases :disclaimer). You're lifting *and* lowering the rear of the spring, thus rotating the pinion up. Or perhaps I should say you're lifting *by* lowering the rear of the spring.

It won't help the rear u-joint, it just won't hurt it. You want the pinion pointing at the rear driveshaft if running a CV joint. In stock form, the pinion points at the rear driveshaft. After the flip, the pinion should point at the rear driveshaft. You're just keeping it as it should be.

As for the first part of your question, I have no idea how much vertical distance at the rear of the spring would equal 6 degrees, and me thinks it'd take some pretty fancy math to figure it out. Some factors that throw a wrench into the equation: the axle is not centered on the springs fore/aft, age of the leafs, spring rate, curb weight etc.

You're wanting to get this 100% absolutely perfect the first time around. Life ain't like that. Do the flip and accept that you might have to fine tune it with small shims later.

Honestly I don't know how Ford got away with using the same shim on all FS Broncos............an E4OD is WAY longer than a T18 or C6. The longer tranny increases the driveshaft angle and should require more shim than a shorter tranny. Pickups got flat blocks, no angle, because of the longer wheelbase.

thanks Keith :shrug



:cry

Sweet shackles there badblack88...

Now just to come up with $100+ to get those badboys.

Hey damager when you get those get some pics. Even a tech article would be sweet too!!!

Does anybody have pictures of the F250 shackles that are up close? The pictures of Nines aren't working....I trying to decide which way to go, the sky or the F250 but would like to see some pictures. Thanks.

Does anybody have pictures of the F250 shackles that are up close? The pictures of Nines aren't working....I trying to decide which way to go, the sky or the F250 but would like to see some pictures. Thanks.
Shackles or shackle hangers?

Shackles are the same for the Broncos and F-series trucks.

clueless on all this lift jargin, but... i have a stock bronco, if i put these things on is that all i would need to do, what would i have to do to the front, new springs/shocks?? any help would be great thanks

Does anybody have pictures of the F250 shackles that are up close? The pictures of Nines aren't working....I trying to decide which way to go, the sky or the F250 but would like to see some pictures. Thanks.
Not the best close-up but it's what I got. I paid $40 for the shackles $20 of that for the yard to cut them off the F250. (I'm not using those shackles, too short.)
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=110215&toggle=fullsize&f=Dscn0589.jpg

clueless on all this lift jargin, but... i have a stock bronco, if i put these things on is that all i would need to do, what would i have to do to the front, new springs/shocks?? any help would be great thanks
Springs, shocks, TTB arm drop pivot mounts, radius arms, and alignment bushings. Can use the stock radius arms with drop brackets but I don't like em.

I ordered my sky-man shackle hangars last night Ill be sure and get pics when they get here.

i am wondering about the sky hangers too.

now with the lift they get like rounbgly 4'' with stock springs,

i will prob need anout 2-4 inches, so i wll go with new springs,

( im SAS swapping 10.25 in rear ) with new springs, and this hanger shakel reversal, will i need the axle shims then?

i kind of like the idea of less spring lift but im not 100% sure i want a shakle reversal- hint talk me into it pros and cons if you may

Hey Blown,
you forgot to paint your hangers :brownbag

:goodfinge

Here's how I did mine (http://www.arkansasmud.com/rsi/index.html). I still have the 2" tapered (7°?) blocks in there and the pinion angle is sweet, but it's too tall. I had 1000 pounds of axle in the back today and it looked much better with the squat. I could sense a mild vibration in the shaft, which makes sense because with that load it was sitting as if I just had the stock shims in there, which I originally discovered gave me too much upward pinion rotation. I have the e4od/1356 combo so I got the "short stick" if you know what I mean :goodfinge Like Keith says, this isn't an exact science since tranny/case combos affect the angle as does the rear angle pinion placement. Just play with it till yer shaft goes into the rearend as straight as possible :toothless

http://www.arkansasmud.com/rsi/new%20hanger%20on%20frame.jpg

One thing to note that makes things easy and consistent is that I aligned the upper rear hole of the new hangers with the upper rear hole where the old hanger used to mount... shackle angle came out pretty damn nice too :rockon

Oh, and take off the rear bumper, it makes things eassssy :thumbup

my bumper is welded on :banghead

I gained 5.5" of lift. No factory wedge block or lift block. I used 1987 F-250 forward hangers from the rear leaf springs. :cheers:

Here you can see where I have no blocks at all.
http://www.texas4x4.org/albums/album33/MVC_186F.jpg

Here you can see where I mounted the new F-250 hanger 1 3/8" further forward than the factory hanger. I did not use the bottom hole in the hanger because I wanted as much lift as possible.

http://www.texas4x4.org/albums/album33/MVC_183F.jpg

Can you update your pictures? :toothless

my bumper is welded on :banghead
:shocked Someone that previously owned it must have lived in a bumper theft area.

can you get the same results with the original hanger or does the bigger f-250 hanger give you the 4" of lift?

well I started getting my hangers ready today and noticed that the shackles on both my truck and the doner were in need of bushings and the bolts were rusted bad(snaped both getting the hangers off to clean and paint(I live up here in the land of snow salt and rust). so I wondered my bronco is a 83 and how new can I go for doner leafs as I can get a whole set at the wrecker cheaper than buying the bolts and bushings. just make it easier to call and check at the wreckers If I know the year range.
thanks :drinkbud

will the a 77 f250 work???

Picture of my beefed up shackle:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=131443&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

Picture of the F250 front rear spring hangers I used:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=131446&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

More pics on my Superford site

DK

Local yard wants 50 for the hangers and 200 :shocked to remove them.

TALK ABOUT RAPE!!!

I sent them the $138 for trhe kit and shipping. why bother looking and spending and these things are beefy. They suggest that if you keep the block( I am using a 10.25 with f350 springs) you correct the pinion angel you switch sides(blocks that is ) and face them backwards. I have all 1 ton running gear and 8" off susupension lift, to let you know...Mo in CA

O.K. You can use f250 hangers to get more lift on a Bronco but can you use the front coils to get the same result?

If you only need 4" of lift you can turn the stock hangers upside down. If you need more than 4" then use the F250 hangers.

i put the tires on mine this weekend (need to replace all the brake stuff, they will come back off next week). the sky flip and belltec drop brackets rose my bronco 10".
here is my folder link.
http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=6364
mike

i put the tires on mine this weekend (need to replace all the brake stuff, they will come back off next week). the sky flip and belltec drop brackets rose my bronco 10".
here is my folder link.
http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=6364
mike

I see you got the rear lifted with the shackle flip, now what are you going to to to match the front to the rear height?

as soon as i get the beast on a level ground i will see how off it is i want a 2" stagger so i want to put the taller springs in front or the coil spacers. not sure yet. i am going to fill the new rear end with oil tonight and move to a level ground.
mike

What year F250 shackles will work for my 95?

should be most years, but shoot for 90-95 to be safe.

Thanks!!

What's the difference between F250 and other truck's hangers?

I'm using the hangers off of a 79 F150 for my truck, which look exactly as pictured above.

:shrug

they are the same thing i was going to do this but the thin metal worried me -they will give a bit more lift than the sky brackets. i took my out around the block last night it rides good so far. i should get my new drive shaft in the next couple nights and then i can go farther. i still working on the rear vent line. i am running it up behind the tail lights, much higher than the stock vent.
i updated some of the pics on my supermotors site.
http://www.supermotors.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=6364
i tested the droop on the rear end and it is much better now.

could someone please email me pics on the f-250 shackle swap, i cant see any pics on this dont know why, i need bout 4" in rear aswell but i promise to post pics of mine soon
thanks alot, brian
padgett76jeep@yahoo.com

Can someone give me a recommendation?

Tim
buy a cheap 4" angle grinder from harbor freight, less than $20

So, if I only want around 3.5-4" of lift, then I should just use what I have? I like that, no money on the back.

What is a popular front end lift to match?

could someone please email me pics on the f-250 shackle swap, i cant see any pics on this dont know why, i need bout 4" in rear aswell but i promise to post pics of mine soon
thanks alot, brian
padgett76jeep@yahoo.com

There's a nice little write-up on the last page, here it is again.

http://www.arkansasmud.com/rsi/index.html

Can you see that? He did it about the same as I did.

What's the difference between F250 and other truck's hangers?

I'm using the hangers off of a 79 F150 for my truck, which look exactly as pictured above.

:shrug
Nothing. I have four stock hangers now. Not sure if anyone would want them since they've been welded on and ground on. I ended up using sky hangers front and rear. You can make this setup yield as much lift as you are willing to lower them. I don't recomend it since I ended up breaking my welds on one side last time out. Here's some pics of my sky shackles:
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/294817/fullsize/IM001548.jpg
You can see the two other times I did the shackle flip with stock front hangers.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/294818/fullsize/IM001545.jpg
I used them up front too. You need a center hole if you plan on doing this. If I knew this before I ordered I could have had them drill a 5/8s hole for me. I ended up doing it myself as you can see.

Something else I've learned is that adding a couple leafs from another F150/Bronco pack can yield you around 4" of lift. If all I needed was 4-6" I'd just leave the stock hangers as is and add a couple leafs. It doesn't stiffen it overmuch. I enjoy the extra stability.

I've also recently installed F350 rear main leafs up front with the bronco pack underneath minus the overload leaf. I'm pretty pleased with the overall feel of my rig now. I still have to add some leaf clamps to prevent from bending the main leaf again. (I did this with the stock bronco main leaf.) Anywho. It sits a little lower than in this pic now after taking it on a cruise to break the leafs in some.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/297457/fullsize/IM001553.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/297562/fullsize/IM001562.jpg

Getting back to the sky shackles. I think they are a really cool product. If you use them the way they intended (I obviously did my own thing with them) then all you have to do is remove the stock hanger and bolt the sky hanger in the existing bolt holes.

So, if I only want around 3.5-4" of lift, then I should just use what I have? I like that, no money on the back.

What is a popular front end lift to match?

:shrug


I'll just do a body lift...3" would suit me fine :whiteflag

I cant see any of the pics shown and would really like to see them as Im about to do the same to my rig

I've got 4 hangers that I'll sell cheap. You only need 2 for the flip. They are no different on a bronco F250 or F150.