OK, Since the forum has been modifed there seems to be a lot of stuff missing (Understandable).
I would like this topic to be based around replacing your rear axle with a 10.25. So if you know please post:

1) From what years are best to use and why?

2) What in your opinion is the best locker for it?

3) Any BKM's or secrets to make the swap a success.

4) Apx. cost.

If we could get a good page of info this would be one topic that can be used for reference. So please no wars, babble or schenanigans, just good ol" info. Thank you.

Look What a search does!
1)You probably know this, but the most desirable
ones are from '93-'97. '86's don't have the tone ring and sensor for
your AT. '87-'92's are known to have issues w/ leaky inner hub oil
seals, but you can get a fixer kit from Ford w/ a diff slinger.
2)ARB, Detroit, Welded
3)Have correct gears, grind and reweld spring perches fr proper pinon angle.
4)100-1k+

Hey! That response to #1 looks familar ;)

Remember that they come full and semi-float. There's not much in the way of options for traction devices for the semi and it uses a c clip, but you could change it over to 5 lug.

I've had 10.25s in 2 diff trucks and have used detroits only.

If you have a pre '94 with the leaky inner hub oil seal, the Ford PN is F4TZ-1177-C. It comes with a new inner bearing piece that is shorter and has a slinger too. This pushes oil back into the bearing.

The 10.25 also has a diff number of teeth on the tone ring (120) vs. the 8.8 (108). Most of the calcs out there for resetting the e-speedo are for the 8.8 and will not properly recalibrate your 10.25. I did mine by trial and error, finally leaving it at 933 (from the orig 972) with 36" tires.

I have a '93 sterling in my '96 bronco.

Originally posted by jojo
Hey! That response to #1 looks familar ;)


like I said Look What a search does:D Every finish your superford page?

http://koala.dns-nac-zone.com/~fullsize/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=345&highlight=10.25

(Posted by the man, Keith_L)
It's pretty straightforward, there are not as many variables as you think. Any 10.25 from '87 should work 'cause that's when RABS came about. Spring pad spacing is not an issue. I can't imagine why you'd have to cut and turn the perches, unless you're smart and want to get rid of the stock shims which crack if you look at them wrong. Otherwise, the crack-prone factory shims will work fine.

I know in theory the seals improved in later years, but I seriously question how much these "improvements" helped. Mine's an earlier style and no leaks, the key is buy the good $40 CR seals from PartsAmerica, not the $10 units at Autozone.

Yes, pinions changed a bit around '94 but I dont' think either is more desirable. If you have to convert you just need to swap yokes, or your yoke can be machined in some instances. New yoke = approx $70.

IOW, I wouldn't refuse any 10.25 because of alleged seal issues or pinion styles.

As someone already said, the RABS/VSS plugs are the same, any Bronco will plug in if required.

10.25s came with 1310s, 1330s, 5-1204X's (Ford's bastard version of the normal 1330) and 1350's. Most Broncos will have a 1330 after '89/90 ish, and a 5-1204x prior to this. But never fear, just use a crossover joint. Personally I think a 10.25 with a 1350 yoke is desireable, just run the xover joint 'til you're ready to upgrade to a full 1350 CV High Angle Shaft like I did, and it just bolts up.

Other issues will be parking brake cables and the d/s must be shortened. U-bolts and spring plates, too. This is all a bolt-on swap except for the d/s shortening, no welding req'd otherwise.

The 4.56 myth is BS, ratios avail include 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.38 and 7.17.

So, the simplified version is this:
1. get any 10.25 '87-97 from any pickup, 2wd or 4wd it doesn't matter
2. throw it in place of the 8.break with new u-bolts and spring plates
3. install e-brake cables
4. measure for rear d/s and have it shortened, fit appropriate u-joint.

Costs: whatever you paid for what ya got
Time: however fast you are
Where got parts: local junkyard, parts house for e-brake cables
Ease of install: very easy (until someone starts whining about having 5 lugs up front and 8 in the rear)
What I'd do differently if I did it again: run a 14bolt or D70, both are better axles (back to the VSS issue)

This will work for a '78-96 Bronco.

And yeah, $650 is way too high.

Other important notes:
1. 10.25s did come out as early as '85 or so and won't have the exciter ring until '87
2. you don't need the exciter ring unless you've got a '92 or newer. My '90 had RABS but does NOT need the exciter ring for speedo operation or to shift my E4OD (don't waste your time trying to salvage RABS)
3. never buy an axle sight unseen based upon what the seller claims it to be

This is the kinda info I was looking for.
I tried the search tool yesterday but I could not find anything I was only getting errors on the page.
I know the forum is under consrtuction and or it was my pc giving me the problems. I just want you to know that it wasnt my ignorance. I use search when I need to and I have been here sine the board started.

Thanks for the link though, I appreciate it.

I do have one question on your info though Keith.
You stated
"you don't need the exciter ring unless you've got a '92 or newer".

I have a 96. I know I have the rear ABS, Park brake, Blah and I also have the E4OD.

Now this "exciter ring" (Sorry for my ignorance) what is this and is this something that would come on the axle if I buy the right one? Or is this something that I have to purchase seperatly?
I have never heard of this.

I am trying to hunt down a 10.25 from a 97 F350.
I am trying to go leter years like 97 so that I can hopefully avoid overaged and abused parts.

I am pretty darn good at turning a wrench and have installed lifts on other vehicles so I am pretty sure I can handle it, but I just want it to go as smooth as possible.

Oh and another question that I hope is easy to answer,
Does the 97 F350 10.25's come with the 1350 set up?
I dont mind having to buy a new yoke but if I can avoid extra cost I will.

Yeah, the exciter ring should come in any 10.25 '87+. It bolts between the carrier and ring gear at the factory. Pre '92 it just tells the RABS (useless!) computer what the rear "wheel speed" is. Not really "wheel speed" but we wont' go into that. Pre '92 gets the other speed-related info it needs from the VSS at the speedo gear in the t-case.

'92 and newer the speedo gear in the t-case went away, so the exciter ring does the job of RABS and VSS (vehicle speed sensor). Without it your speedo won't read right (or at all) and your E4OD will not know when the hell to shift. Stalling when decelerating is also a possibility.

You'll still have to re-cal your speedo as the 8.8 exciter gear has 108 teeth while the 10.25 has 120 (makes sense since the ring gear is bigger). I found some info on this during my search too....

Originally posted by Beerman
Oh and another question that I hope is easy to answer,
Does the 97 F350 10.25's come with the 1350 set up?
I dont mind having to buy a new yoke but if I can avoid extra cost I will.

It's really not so much a MY thing as an application thing..... combined with whatever Ford had lying around. Oil burners are more likely to have 1350s IME, but like I said... if Ford had extra 1330 yokes lying around all bets are off! IOW, you'll just have to hunt around, there are no absolutes IME

Thank you Keith.
More good info fornot only me but everyone.

Ok here is what I found on recalibrating speedo.
Recalibrate speedo (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2857&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

Here is the info:
The 92-96 Bronco gets speedometer information from an excitor ring next to the ring gear in the rear differential. Because the ring gear (and the excitor ring) turns at basically the same speed as the tire regardless of the rear end ratio, the speedometer only needs to be recalibrated to account for changes in tire size.
Additionally, when calculating the tire revolutions per mile, a more accurate measurement is to measure the circumference of the tire as it travels a path across the ground. Assuming the nominal tire size (ie: 35x12.50) will produce reasonably accurate results, however many tires have significantly different diameters depending on tire wear, load, inflation pressure, and the width of the mounted wheel.

To adjust the Speedometer and odometer on the late model Bronco. (Note: The module can only be reprogrammed six times.)

First, get the tire revolution per mile, some manufacturers have this data on their web sites. Then multiply that by 108 and divide by 8000. This end figure is your CONVERSION CONSTANT.

AKA: 136.1347721231/(Rolling radius of tire) = CONVERSION CONSTANT
EX: 16" rolling radius = 8.5084231 CONVERSION CONSTANT


RESET CONVERSION CONSTANT
Locate the dealer mode programming enable single-terminal connector. The connector is located at the bottom of the instrument panel below the center of the glove box. On all vehicles, the dealer mode enable wire is Circuit 567(LB/Y).
Insert a jumper wire or alligator clip in service wire and clip other end to vehicle ground with the key in the OFF postition.

Turn key to RUN while holding down the trip odometer RESET button on the speedometer. Release RESET button.

The Speedometer will prove out(sweep across dial and back). The English/Metric and revision levels will be displayed. The last number of the display id the dealer mode lockout count. This count shows the number of allowable conversion constant changes remaining. When the count is zero(0), no additional changes can be made to this instrument cluster. If a revision is required a service instrument cluster must be ordered.

Press and release RESET button again and PSOM conversion constant without the decimal point will be displayed followed by the word CAL.

Press and release the odometer SELECT button as many times as necessary to change the conversion constant to the correct value.

Note: Pressing and releasing the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant reduces the number of times the PSOM can be reprogrammed by one count.

If you change your mind and want to go back to the old conversion constant, turn the key OFF BEFORE you lock in the new constant.

When the new correct value is displayed in the odometer window, press and release the RESET button to lock in the new conversion constant.

Turn the key OFF and disconnect the ground wire and check to see that the speedo works correctly.

Ok so Keith as you previously mentioned the 10.25 has 120 teeth.
SO as per the above post to recali your speedo, in the case for the 10.25 would multiply by 120 instead of 108 and then divide by 8000?

Makes sense to me dude but I've never recal'd the electronic speedos.... I much prefer a good old mechanical speedo

SO you can get an aftermarket mechanical speedo and install it somehow (dunno, never installed one) and just use this one instead of the stocker.

That would be cool I guess.
Are those a bitch to install?

Nah, I just consider myself lucky 'cause my '90 still has a mechanical speedo. You need yours functioning for lots of reasons, altho even my '90 needs a VSS.

Anyway you gotta have something to act as a VSS so the EEC knows how fast you're going. If you were ever to want an aftermarket speedo I'd go with one of the new GPS-driven units..... but again, you'd have to leave the stocker working.

Originally posted by Keith_L
.It's really not so much a MY thing as an application thing..... combined with whatever Ford had lying around. Oil burners are more likely to have 1350s IME, but like I said... if Ford had extra 1330 yokes lying around all bets are off! IOW, you'll just have to hunt around, there are no absolutes IME .

ditto. ford parts lists the 1350 as the U joint, but my 1990 diesel, and my 1988 diesel with the full floating 10.25's both have a 1330 yoke. aint that crap!

Where can you buy a crossover joint? I have a 90 F-250 10.25 FF, does this have the 1330 or how can you tell the difference? My 95 bronco has a wierd flat flange from the pinion shaft, can I use the stock u-joint that is on the drive shaft now and remove the connecting flange that connects to the pinion shaft?

Hopefully this is not too confusing, I don't think that I even have it straight in my head:confused:

Thanks,
Derik

Originally posted by 95bronc
Where can you buy a crossover joint? I have a 90 F-250 10.25 FF, does this have the 1330 or how can you tell the difference? My 95 bronco has a wierd flat flange from the pinion shaft, can I use the stock u-joint that is on the drive shaft now and remove the connecting flange that connects to the pinion shaft?

Hopefully this is not too confusing, I don't think that I even have it straight in my head:confused:

Thanks,
Derik
you can try, and if it doesnt fit take your driveshaft and the axle to adrivelien shop. they can can change the yoke or get you a cross over joint.

Alright the u-joint is not going to be a problem, it connects fine. Is it absolutely neccessary to shorten your drive shaft or would I be able to drive it on the road with out any problems?

I have everything hooked up except for the driveshaft, but I had to go to work. I have 5.5 inch lift blocks.
Thanks for all of the info.