I'm breaking in my 521 and a new motorcyle engine as well, so I started doing some research on engine oils...came up with this long, but interesting article.

http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

The bottom chart is very informative. :beer

indeed it is

Well I had to ask this.

What kinda oil and filter combo are you guys using now

I am using the dura blend from valvoline and I like that stuff. I was using a fram oil filter but after reading that I am going to switch to some thing better.

Royal Purple of the 10W-30 weight right now (prefer AMSOIL) with a Motorcraft Filter...and Motorcraft filters are Purolators in disguise...:brownbag

Motorcraft 10w/30 w/ a Motorcraft FL-1A

I recently switched back to synthetic oil ,Castrol Syntec. I had been running regular oil during the break in of my engine. I had a ford rebuilt crate engine installed in my truck. Now I run synthetic in my trans and rear as well allways have in all my vehicles and NAPA gold filters, made by Wix.

Motorcraft 5W-30, Motorcraft filter, Motorcraft plugs

whatever oil and filter i find in my garage.

9/10 times Castrol in everything. Castrol 5W-30 right now, switching to Syntec in 2200 miles and a motorcraft (FL-1) filter never gonna use Fram on my new engine!!

Ill also condone the use of Mobil, and Mobil 1 they are good.

i use valvoline maxlife and valvoline (stp) oil filter, the stp oil filters are more solid than most of thre other filters ive seen

Mobil 1 Syn and a FL-1A

proline 15-40 and a fram filter. no probs for the past 3 trs with it.

Valvoline 10W-30 w/ Napa/valvoline filter

Mobil 1 Cynthetic 5W-30 {Since New}, 51515 WIX oil filter or FL-1A Motorcraft.

Allcruisen :imp :usa

I blame fram for part of the reason my engine when to shit. Ran like a dream then I changed my oil and put a fram filter on it. 1000 or so miles later it started knocking.... And ended up busting a piston oh well.

I SAY NO TO FRAM!

:stupid

Castrol GTX 10W30 and K&N Oil Filter. :cool:

I've heard of a few cases where fram filter media collapsed and went into engines... resulting into some pretty nasty engine work.... K&N filter Valvoline oil Bronco and K&N filter Mobil 1 full synthetic in my wee lil Miata.. man mobil 1 synthetic keeps that engine clean on the insides...

I boo Mobile 1 synthetic......my opinion:goodfinge

I was using Max life 20-50 and a K&N filter....

New engine, I have started with Valvoline 10-40 and a K&N, i figure 2 oil changes and I will switch to Synpower???

I run Valvoline full synthetic 5w50, with 1 quart of Lucas synthetic oil additive to keep the oil attached to the moving parts.
If you have ever seen their dispaly at the parts counter where two mixers are turning and the lucas is making the oil attach itself to the moving metal parts you wont turn back.
If you have seen it then you know what i mean.

I use Fram filter now, but my next oil change i will be using either a K&N or a Fram extra guard.

K&N filters arenice because of the anti drain back valve. they say no more cold starts. I will wait and see if that statement is true.

i use 6 quarts of oil and one quart of dura lube and a napa (wix) filter. i dont think it matters what oil you use (except the sunthetic vs. regular comparison)
as long as you change your oil more frequently than you think you should. that is way more important than a brand name oil.

Originally posted by Beerman
K&N filters arenice because of the anti drain back valve. they say no more cold starts. I will wait and see if that statement is true.

I think thats just the glue they use clogging up the filter....:mad:

I just saw that you were breaking in a bike as well. I run Honda GN4 10W-40 and the stock OEM filter. (if its Jap that is). Whatever oil you run MAKE SURE its bike oil and not car oil.

castrol 10w-40 & a WIX filter

OH, and BTW for those people who overfill the crankcase.

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is technically worse to overfill the crankcase than it is to run it a half quart low.

This was advised and confirmed by three BMW Master Certified mechanics who i was in conversation with.

I cant go into all the detail they went into, but it has something to do with the oil being "Frothed" and the way the oil is supposed to be injected and ran through the system.

All in all, the reason Ford, and every other manufacturer put a line on the dip sticj is VERY IMPORTANT so PLEASE quit over filling the crankcase.

That includes people who put 6 quarts in, then a quart of Lucas, or something else.
Just replace 1 quart of oil with the additive you bought.

Originally posted by Beerman
OH, and BTW for those people who overfill the crankcase.

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It is technically worse to overfill the crankcase than it is to run it a half quart low.

I cant go into all the detail they went into, but it has something to do with the oil being "Frothed" and the way the oil is supposed to be injected and ran through the system.



I've never heard that before :brownbag

Valuable infor from the Beerman!! :beer

I've used nothing but the cheapest oil I could find and Fram filters changed every 3000 miles, and have 205,000 trouble free miles on the stock motor. :shrug

10W-40 durring the warm months, and 10W-30 durring the cold ones.

here is a link about a oil filter study. as you'll see most filters
have a anti drain back valve.. but Fram takes the bottom the
barrel award for filters.

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

It wasn't on the list in the link- but I use 20W-50 Mobil/ FL1-A in the 460.
This last summer when we got stuck in traffic with the overheating problem, the temp guage got to 270 degrees ( I ain't kidding) and it's still running strong.

Where did you get that girdle. I wanted to put one on but the one from DSS they said would interfere with the windage tray

in my 4 wheeler i use AMSOIL, in the bronco i used AMSOIL synthetic with a fram oil filter. there is a amsoil factory like 25 miles from my house

I'm another very satisfied user of Royal Purple Synthetic oils, and I guess I'm one of the few that uses the Purolator Pure One filter. I've had very good luck with both oil and filter in the past. The filter is really nice in that it uses silicone gasket/ADB valve, which comes in handy when replacing, it doesn't seem to stick to the block as bad as the old rubber gasket on other filters I've used in the past.

Dennis :rockon

I'm another very satisfied user of Royal Purple Synthetic oils,

Dennis :rockon

I just read in Autoweek where Royal Purple put a patent on its purple bottle. It was granted by the govt. No one can market their product in a purple bottle anymore except them. Amazing.

In 97, I bought a 95 Monte Carlo 3.1L w/ 20k on it. Always ran Syntec in the motor, changed over to synthetic tranny fluid too. At 233k miles, was still getting 26mpg +, but, alas, it got totaled :(
Which led me to buy my Bronc :D

i have used fram for the past like 165 oil changes in the 90 bronco and also the 81 and the parents 350s in thier chebbies and we have no problem with them. also as for oil i just pick one. but i am looking for a good one to break the new motor in and also a really nice filter too.

Bronco - Mobil 1 10W-30 or 5W-30, Wix filter.

CBR 600 - Honda GN-4 and Honda filter. I *almost* put a Fram filter on the bike once until I compared it side by side with the Honda OEM filter. The OEM has MUCH better construction. The Fram body was crimped over the edges in 4 places around the perimeter, where the Honda filter was a continuous smooth rolled edge all the way around. Fram just looked like cheap crap compared to the other.

Maybe the Fram filters are 'good enough', I dunno. I'm not willing to find out just so I can save $4 per oil change.

Valvoline Racing 40W in winter and 50W in summer. Usually a Fram filter.

Valvoline 10W-40 with Motorcraft filter

I use Acme oil (no joke) with wix filter

I been using valvoline 5w-30 synthetic with a valvoline filter (stp) for a long time with no problems.

I've never heard that before :brownbag

Valuable infor from the Beerman!! :beer


yes beerboy is right.

overfilling the oil pan causes it to foam up, lowering your OP because your pumping air bubbles vs liquid oil.


Only safe way to increase the oil in your engine is to buy a bigger pan.

I just printed that entire article up and its going straight into the garage when I get home. Cool read.

i run motorcraft 15W-40(the stuff that is used in the power stokes) and a FL-1A.

I use Valvoline Max life, 20w-50 and a FL-1A filter.

NO4NJNK