Anyone know if just the caliper stands and rotors from the metric sterlings would bolt onto a older drum style? Would eliminate the need to fab a bracket.

No they wont. The new Streling has a larger bolt spacing than the older one does.

.........already been there

you dont need a fab a braket, theres two places that make um great lakes offroad on pirate is one that comes to mind most readily

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371626

:stupid when I get the money He is who I am goint to buy my D70 bracket from.

I am looking about $200 total for Bracket, rotors, loaded calipers, flex hose to convert my D70 to disc. I believe the swap will be worth the money.

is that 200 his kit cost? Whats he do for E brake?

it isnt a kit you source your own parts 75 dana 44 chevy front calipers iirc just click the linketh it costs around 60 shipped for the braket, heres a link of a guy putting it on a 70... im waiting till i get money too i figired 300 for the whole swap

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/dana70discbrakes/

Nope. His is only the bracket. The rest of the stuff I priced from autozone. It depends on the caliper. He mentions which caliper for the e brake. My ebrake never worked anyways. 2 Rotor $23.99 ea., Calipers loaded $53.99, 2 Flex Hose $19.99 ea., Bracket $66.50 shipped. $208.45 Plus some tax.

I read that thread and didnt see where it said anything abou e brakes. Maybe Ill have to read it again.

He replied back and said yes you can use the Cadi calipers for Ebrakes.

Yup, the Cadillacs with rear discs have the E brake calipers. I think the 78~ ElDorado is the common one everyone uses

Ordering mine today, if I get a response. :beer

do I rmember correctly that the eldo stuff is expensive and the ebrake doesnt work that well???

do I rmember correctly that the eldo stuff is expensive and the ebrake doesnt work that well???


It has been written up in here somewhere that they dont hold for sh!t. I'll try to find the thread.


Edit: Found a couple, but it's really only touched on.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40799&highlight=10.25+disc+brakes

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=27880&highlight=cadillac+brakes

did some research, seems the eldo stuff is "tempermental" to say the least.

Spoke with TSM, and they still do make a rear disc brake swap. 339 for rotors, brackets and bolts.
They also have a caliper with an Ebrake built in, but its a wapping 300 bucks a pair. For my money, I m leaning towards the eldo stuff with a mico or line locks for when I do my winching.

Wilwwood, who does have hat stuyle ebrakes does not have a shoe that will fit the 8 lug/rotor style we need.

Damon, who has decent prices on line locks? The only one I found was about $100.00.

dc


did some research, seems the eldo stuff is "tempermental" to say the least.

Spoke with TSM, and they still do make a rear disc brake swap. 339 for rotors, brackets and bolts.
They also have a caliper with an Ebrake built in, but its a wapping 300 bucks a pair. For my money, I m leaning towards the eldo stuff with a mico or line locks for when I do my winching.

Wilwwood, who does have hat stuyle ebrakes does not have a shoe that will fit the 8 lug/rotor style we need.

I forget, mark has some electric ones that werent too bad from summit IIRC. Ill ask him when I talk to him in a bit and let you

Thanks Damon, I looked into using the disk on the driveshaft methoud but it just did not look like a good plan to me.

dc

I think teh ElDorado parking brakes hold 100% better than the superduty parking brake does. I can put my brake on as hard as it goes and I can still move the truck by just tapping the gas.

do you have the eldo calps on something that you have compared? i agree that the factory ford stuff isnt that good.

Yeah I had them on a 76 (I think it was - Boss Hog style) cadillac I drove just for shits and giggles before I demo derbied it. Put the park brake on with them and that 500 couldn't even move the car in forward or reverse. It worked just as good as an air brake on the driveline

I just ordered my brackets. $67.25 delivered to my door. :thumbup



Edit: I informed him of this site, and that there are alot of 10.25s as well as 14-bolts running around here, and that he should take a look.

I forget, mark has some electric ones that werent too bad from summit IIRC. Ill ask him when I talk to him in a bit and let you


don't know which ones they were but they were from jegs.


Damon are you deleting your porprotioning valve and abs junk which was left over?

how can you get rid of all the abs junk? what is able to be pulled and have the brakes still work right?

how can you get rid of all the abs junk? what is able to be pulled and have the brakes still work right?



ABS is just to stop the brakes from locking up when stopping.

I am sure the ECU will not like you unplugging and throwing away the ABS stuff, but that does not mean you have to still run your pressure hoses through the thing.

loaded calipers for $54? i paid $14 for mine. whats loaded mean? pads were $8ish

loaded calipers for $54? i paid $14 for mine. whats loaded mean?


With brake pads installed.

With brake pads installed.



no silly, they had too much to drink. :toothless

I ditched the module and all the sensors a long time ago.

what about your stock porprotioning valve?

hey anyone have the link to the page where they show what to do to the proportioning valve to make it still light up the light but be gutted i guess? i had to reinstall so i lost my newer links.

so why so much more for loaded than separate pads & calipers??

I ditched the module and all the sensors a long time ago.
how did that effect your truck?? does it still run right, or did it mess with the ecm. wt all exactly did you take off/get rid of?

I removed the computer unit on the frame reail, and the front wheel sensors, sinc there was nothing for them to mount to anyways. Bent up all new brake lines and havent looked back. the prop valve is on the master, that s why there is a larg "adapter" on one port of the MC.

The abs has nothing to do with the ecm.

so why so much more for loaded than separate pads & calipers??

It's not. You must just be comparing el cheapo rebuilds to quality rebuilds.

Generally speaking you save a few bucks by buying loaded calipers vs calipers and pads separate.

did you ever end up putting your discs on Keith?




At this point, Im leaning towards the eldo calipers with front and rear line locks for winching/off camber stops while wheeling. The ebrake should hold well enuf on the street, and my sterling ebrake has never worked that well anyways.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=107634&prmenbr=361

if that link does not work directly here is the part number 555-63000


with my conversation with Mark a while back I beleive these were the ones he was running.

Thanks for the link. When I get employed again I will buy a pair. BTW I tried removing the ABS computer on my '96 but I lost the VSS signal. Have not had time to chase down the correct line and build a jumper.

dc

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=107634&prmenbr=361

if that link does not work directly here is the part number 555-63000


with my conversation with Mark a while back I beleive these were the ones he was running.

did you ever end up putting your discs on Keith?

No, I'm having a hard time putting any money into my 10.25. I'll likely run it 'til it dies and then drop in a 14b

Keith, Where are you located? Are you having trouble with your 10.25" I am thinking of getting a 10.25". What gears you running, any locker or lsd?

He lives quite a ways from you. Not really worth shipping a 10.25 as they are heavy as all get out. Plus they are stupid easy to find. What year Bronco are you running? If possible swap in a 14 bolt, much better axle.

dc

Keith, Where are you located? Are you having trouble with your 10.25" I am thinking of getting a 10.25". What gears you running, any locker or lsd?

Just about everyone lives quite away from me. lol. I have an 83. I have a D60, that I was going to put in. Picked up a D70 now but I need 4.10 gears so I bought a rebuild kit for it and am looking for a set of 4.10 gears. I don't want to regear another axle so I was looking for something with 4.10 gears. I didn't know if a Sterling 10.25 was tougher than the D70U that I picked up for $50. I don't really want a 14B.

did you ever end up putting your discs on Keith?




At this point, Im leaning towards the eldo calipers with front and rear line locks for winching/off camber stops while wheeling. The ebrake should hold well enuf on the street, and my sterling ebrake has never worked that well anyways.

If you do try the eldos post up and let us know how you like them. They will be more costly. I can't decide right now. I want a mechanical brake back, but the eldos are $$, and I've seen a pair (one was leaking), and I hear they are leaky. not much to go on, but they might end up just being a PITA, and not hold worth a sheet. What about disc brake kit on driveshaft (up by tase)? I'm thinking of seeing what partial kit may be out there. maybe that's not an option for you with all the added length of the doubler, and shorter shaft. I'm not liking the idea of just line lock(s). I'll just think about it another year until someone comes up with something mechanical and cool, and then copy that. :chili:

axavier, loaded should be cheaper overall if you are comparing the same quality pads. loaded caliper has the bolts and new bleeder as well. not sure unloaded does.

I wonder if it would be possible (or feasable) to make a custom caliper bracket and have 2 calipers on each wheel. You could have one be the standard service brake and the other caliper could be a mechanical parking brake.

I dont have or want a driveline brake. Im trying to eliminate all force against the parking gear in the auto.

The ebrake will just serve as aparking brake on the street. The line locks would be used in conjunction with the ebrake on the trail.

As said in your other thread it's been beat to death but the issue between a 10.25 and a D70U is not durability on any given day - - the specs on paper are quite comparable. The issue, rather, is long term longevity and reliability. The 10.25 will wobble pinions (use a crush sleeve eliminator), spit out axle flange retaining bolts, spit out the carrier shims which reside *outside* of the carrier bearings, and other stupid shit I can't remember. The 70's a better axle and if you're avoiding it simply because you don't want to re-gear, you're making a mistake IMO. The 70U is also nice and rounded underneath, it won't hang up like a 10.25 will (and believe me, they do!!). The 10.25 will also back out ring gear bolts and the fix - ironically - is to use D70 ring gear bolts which are shouldered.

Damon, I've got the Speedway brackets sitting by my front door right now as we speak. They surfaced during the move. This is what YJTJ detailed in his one write-up on PBB (using Dodge rotors). If you want the brackets let's talk. I'll likely never put them to use. Supposedly the 1/4" plate is too thin for an FSB, however.

Thanks Keith. I cracked open the D70 and it has a Power-lock in it. I am going to keep it and regear it. Thanks for the info. Back to the brakes.

I dont have or want a driveline brake. Im trying to eliminate all force against the parking gear in the auto.

The ebrake will just serve as aparking brake on the street. The line locks would be used in conjunction with the ebrake on the trail.

yes, but, if your eldos are leaky, won't that also make your rear line lock ineffecitve? I don't like using my auto parking gear as my brake either. Just trying to decide on a best solution

yes, it would make it leaky.

the only other solution I see is to use the TSM calps at 300 a pair. Twice what the eldos are. I figured I could try the eldos, and go from there.

yes, it would make it leaky.

the only other solution I see is to use the TSM calps at 300 a pair. Twice what the eldos are. I figured I could try the eldos, and go from there.


Arent the TSM calipers, actually eldo calipers?



Edit: Nope nevermind

I thought they were?

I thought they were?


If you click on the link it shows 2 different part numbers for parking break style calipers. They do sell the eldo calipers, but they're $300 also.





http://www.tsmmfg.com/Ordering_Examples_2.htm

if they are saying thier large truck ebrake calipers are only aviable from them, then how come the truck and eldo calipers have the same piston size as well as the same price.

I have been thinking about making something to add a second small caliper on the rears for a cable activated ebrake. I just need to find the caliper of choice.

Hey keith, why don't you use the speedway brackets as a template for some 1/2" plate. Time to drag out and setup the plasma and do some cutting you lazy bum :)

Hmmm, Sterlings loosing ring gear bolts, spitting out carrier shims and hanging up on rocks, say it ain't so (LOL).

dc

Time to drag out and setup the plasma and do some cutting you lazy bum :)

Everyone who's employed raise your hands. Put your hand down Dave :toothless

LOL!

dc

Everyone who's employed raise your hands. Put your hand down Dave :toothless

ouch. KL, I already ordered the great lakes ones. Too bad.

Id be interested in getting an "outline" of those speedway ones tho.

If you get a chance Damon post up the outline of the Great Lakes ones too.


dc

ouch. KL, I already ordered the great lakes ones. Too bad.

Id be interested in getting an "outline" of those speedway ones tho.

If you get a chance Damon post up the outline of the Great Lakes ones too.


dc


pm me your addy, and I can trace and send to you.

If anyone cares, I just got mine from UPS today. 3/8 thick. Looks good to me. Now I can start buying the brakes.:thumbup

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/250300/fullsize/rear%20disc%20brakes%20001.jpg

Not to bag on anything here. but I would never run those brackets. They look pretty thin on that middle bolt hole and they only have 3 bolts holding it to the axle.

You may want to doublecheck this, but I'm pretty sure the ElDorado calipers that work with E-brake, don't actually come with the hardware that operates the E-brake, and there aren't any aftermarket suppliers for them either. This means you would have to find these components in a boneyard somewhere, and its not exactly an "easy" car to find. I had considered this route as well for my 14 bolt rear, but ended up going with plain old chevy K5 calipers, and will eventually get the hydro line locks installed. Figured this was worth mentioning for anyone considering this route.

Not to bag on anything here. but I would never run those brackets. They look pretty thin on that middle bolt hole and they only have 3 bolts holding it to the axle.

Well, I have to own up to being a bit wimpy and not speaking on this, but I was thinking what Jopes states.

The thickness is fine, but the material taken out, and the way the axle bolt holes are constructed, well....I just wonder how much force this bracket sees. are there two other pieces of plate to seal that off around the axle? I know the weld on ones are constructed that way. I'm just comparing these to what mine has...for some reason the D60 is different in that Jim (78bronco460) was able to construct the 3/8" brackets (solid, no cutouts), such that the bracket slides onto the axle, bolts to the existing 4 flange holes. I also did not have to worry about offset from what I recall (have to go out and look at them again, but I don't believe there is any spacers used).

Jah, I think these calipers at least come with the little metal bracket and spring that attaches to the calipers. What you would still need is to run the ebrake line to an attachment near the caliper, and then the inner braided cable would come out and run to the caliper bracket.....press the ebrake and it pulls/pushes that bracket, which in turn pushes the caliper piston in, I suppose is how it would work.

A pic or two:
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/179602/fullsize/105_0595.JPG

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/195600/fullsize/106_0645.JPG

Jah, I think these calipers at least come with the little metal bracket and spring that attaches to the calipers.
That is the part that someone else had said didn't come with the calipers, that you would take them off of the originals (assuming you had the Eldorado to begin with) and reuse them on the new calipers. Again, I'm not 100% sure on this, and am relying on second hand info, so if anyone finds out for sure I'd love to know. :beer

Thread on pirates about failures in disk brake brackets.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279819&highlight=broken+danatrac+brackets

If you welded them on you might be ok. Personelly I feel they are a waste of steel in that design.

Not to bag on anything here. but I would never run those brackets. They look pretty thin on that middle bolt hole and they only have 3 bolts holding it to the axle.
I was thinking the same thing, I would like it a lot better if the bolt holes were drilled, not cut out. And it used 4 bolts, not 3. And the centers wernt cut out.
Just looks kind of flimsy if you ask me

And I can just see the bracket cracking right at that center bolt hole, making it 2 pieces

Well, I'll just have to get them welded up, and see what happens.

And I can just see the bracket cracking right at that center bolt hole, making it 2 pieces
That does look like a pretty weak spot. Great Lakes Offroad's brackets for the 14 bolt are a totally different design, and they seem beefy enough, even without welding. I haven't had a chance to put them to the test yet obviously though since the 1 tons are still in my garage. :shrug

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/14-Bolt-Diff-Disc-Brake-Kit-Brackets-not-Dana-60-44-D_W0QQitemZ7990869650QQcategoryZ33728QQrdZ1QQcmdZV iewItem

Yea the Great Lakes 14 bolt design uses 4 bolt holes and has more material around the top middle bolt.
Doesnt seem like it would be a problem.

I was looking at the TSM site, and they have for 300 bucks a pair, gm rear calipers with ebrake stuff that are loaded. Was at napa, and for a special order, they can get GM rear calps from an 02 and newer. Think that would be the same as what TSM has? And could they be used in place of gm front calipers like so many have done??? Is there a mounting difference at all?

tsm link
http://www.tsmmfg.com/3120.htm

Not sure about the price on these willwood setups but they look pretty cool. Parking brake is part of the rotor.

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Pages/12/index.asp

dc

spoke with tsm again. The eldos they have are the same as every car parts store. i guess the key to these calps is that you need to constantly set the ebrake to keep them adjusted, and the only reason they leak is bad rebuilds. Since I set me ebrake every time I park, im leaning towards them again.

The gm stuff they have is basically the same caliper, except that the gm version has a little tab for hooking up your ebrake line, and the eldos dont. BUT the gm version would still need a spacer made to work with the sterling/ford lines. So either way, a little fab ork is involved.

i found a great write up for sterling rear disks on the 4 door bronco site. complete with part lists and prices and template for the calipers on request. and the brackets are hellavalot stronger than those pics posted earlier.

http://fourdoorbronco.com/temp/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=11;t=660

i found a great write up for sterling rear disks on the 4 door bronco site. complete with part lists and prices and template for the calipers on request. and the brackets are hellavalot stronger than those pics posted earlier.

http://fourdoorbronco.com/temp/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=11;t=660


That has been posted on here quite a few times, when this topic has come up.

sorry i searched a few times and only found it mentioned once. and it was barried, had to go through 4 links to get to the actual write up.