i tried searching but couldnt quite find what i was looking for.

okay im in need of a welder. unfortunatly all i have is 110 power. im not planning any major projects like a cage or anything but small stuff like patching exhaust and light body work i have about 300-350 to spend. any suggestions for a welder. i can weld with stick wire and a little bit of oxy/ace.

go with either a miller 135 or the hobart 135. they are decent welders to learn on. however they will be a little bit out of your price range but worth the money. I think they go for about 450 new.

if you can wait I would recommend getting a 220v machine cause you will be better off in the end but if 110 power is all can get your hands on then one of those machines will do the trick. plus if all you plan to do is some light stuff then it will be fine. you local to az so if you do need some bigger stuff welded up let me know.

another option is I have my old hobart that I might be willing to sell. and since your local we wouldnt have to mess with shipping it. however the catch is I think it needs some attention, it still works ok but will pop the breaker and hit the overload pretty quick. Im not sure how much it would take to get it fixed(I just bought a new 220v) I would let it go for pretty cheap tho. om me if your interested

Your 110v welder might require a 20 amp breaker (most do) and also I would make sure its all clean. They have a habit of looosening up at all the high amperage connections so make sure there all tight b/c a loose connection creates resistance thus blowing the breaker. Also adding a fan to mine did the trick for me, just make sure if you add a fan have it blow the air out not in or you will fill the transformer with dust. Hope this helps..

already did all that...new breakers and all. the welder has a fan and everything. It went from being fine to having issues so Im sure it just needs some maintance.

hey dustin where in town would be a good place to pick up a welder? im new here so i havnt a clue. and also any recomondations for metal supply.

as or welding shops, phoenix welding is one of the better ones. The have several locations around the valley. however check out cyberweld.com, they have awsome prices and free shipping. They have been the cheapest IVe found and I buy most of my stuff from them

as for steel, the best place Ive found has been southwest steel off of 21st ave and deer valley

Dustin, I'd be interested in your welder for sale... I have sent you a P.M....Baked

I have a lincoln 135..it's an awesom 110v welder. Downfall...only usefull on thinner material, but for exhaust/body it's ideal. If you can score a 220v I would. 135's can also use flux core, where you don't need gas, and you can burn a lil deeper. I used that for my bumpers, and with a lil practice you can flow some sweet beads..

Tap or Continuous Control

What does this mean on the SP-135T and SP-135 Plus welders?

got my hobart 135 from northerntools.com for $299

Looks like the 135 might have been discontinued(not 100% sure on that).

Has anyone used the 140? Is it basically the same thing?

I was thinking of letting the military pay for me to take welding classes, and I was also looking at a 1st welder.

The only 220v I have is for the dryer, so it'd prolly have to be a 110v to start out with.

I used to have an old mig pak 10, while it was a decent machine. I would go with the biggest 110 welder you can, ie the hobart or miller 135. If you ever get 220v the hobart 180 is VERY nice.

If you ever get 220v the hobart 180 is VERY nice.
Handler 180, thats the one Im saving my coin for!!

go with either a miller 135 or the hobart 135. they are decent welders to learn on. however they will be a little bit out of your price range but worth the money. I think they go for about 450 new.


I see that quite a few companies refurbish both of these units. Is that a good option to start with, or is that just asking for trouble?

I see that quite a few companies refurbish both of these units. Is that a good option to start with, or is that just asking for trouble?


Anyone have any input?

never had any first hand experence with a refurb unit.....if the company is solid and they stand by there work I cant see a problem with it

never had any first hand experence with a refurb unit.....if the company is solid and they stand by there work I cant see a problem with it


I'll have to look more into the companies, and how well they stand by their work, but thanks for the info.

This is what Toolking.com has to say about reconditioned units:

What Is a Manufacturer-Reconditioned Tool?
A Manufacturer reconditioned tool can be defined as:
Open Box: Items cannot be sold as new if product packing is removed.
Returns: Because of the easing of many liberal return policies, customers can return products for any reason. If the customer was unhappy for any reason and returned the product, these items must be identified as reconditioned.

How are products reconditioned?
Once a product has been returned to a retailer and opened for whatever reason, it cannot be sold for new. It is then returned to the manufacturer and is completely gone through to assure it meets all factory specifications and is then quality checked again. Manufacturer-reconditioned tools maintain the highest quality standards. Each tool is thoroughly examined for proper working condition and quality.

How are Manufacturer-Reconditioned identified?
Every Tool King's reconditioned product is identified by a Reconditioned symbol.

What makes a Manufacturer reconditioned tool a super bargain?
The price you pay for a reconditioned tool is significantly lower than retail.

What is the warranty on Manufacturer-reconditioned tool?
Tool Kings reconditioned tools come with a double satisfaction guarantee, you receive a full manufacture warranty and a 100% Tool King Satisfaction guarantee.

They want $300 for the Hobart 135, and $400 for the 140.

I might have just found my xmas present to myself.

Im buying from ToolKing when I get the mone, Im looking at a recon unit myself, have had them bookmarked for a few months. I dont even care if the corner of the unit is bashed in, as long as it has full warrenty and works right!

Im buying from ToolKing when I get the mone, Im looking at a recon unit myself, have had them bookmarked for a few months. I dont even care if the corner of the unit is bashed in, as long as it has full warrenty and works right!

I'll be looking into it a bit more, but you're right, as long as it works, and as long as it's covered if it doesnt, I dont really care.

Now I just need to take a trip down to the local vocational school, and see what they offer.

The military will only pay for so many certifications, but the counselor I talked to, said they have a way of packaging certifications together, to fit what the military will cover. Minimum out of pocket expense is what I'm looking for.:chili: :chili: :chili:

I took welding at VoTec before I started professionally, the course was like $120, included all materials, etc.. Thats not much scratch for training that is priceless!

But seriously, if you really wanna know how to weld, thats your best bet! You will never learn on your own in a full year what you can learn in class in one day! The instructor will explain things and show you ways that will make your welds not only attractive, but strong!

Good luck!
Andrew

I took welding at VoTec before I started professionally, the course was like $120, included all materials, etc.. Thats not much scratch for training that is priceless!

But seriously, if you really wanna know how to weld, thats your best bet! You will never learn on your own in a full year what you can learn in class in one day! The instructor will explain things and show you ways that will make your welds not only attractive, but strong!

Good luck!
Andrew

I worked in a welding shop b4 I got into the military, so I have a (very) broad understanding as to what's going on, and I could prolly booger weld two peices together, but I'd rather have someone tell me what I'm doing wrong, and give me ideas as to how I can fix it.

Cool, I too had experience welding before I took the class, and was "enlightened" by the instructor to things I never knew before, it really helped my welding skills! :thumbup I was glad I took the class before I went to work. Then again, after I got a job welding, did I find out just how little I knew and how bad my welding was. By the time I left that job, my work should have been hung in a freggin museam somewhere! HAHA!

My favorite process is MIG, my fav setup is

Millermatic 250
.045 dual shield with CO2

I know theres slag left behind, but we did structrual steel and penetration is King! You could chip the slag off and see this shiney, flat bead that looked awesome! When you tie in right, you cant find where the weld was started and where it ended on the connections. WooT!

Andrew

I ran the hobart 110 (think assrammer) as a starter machine. It worked well, but I eventually stepped up to a Lincoln 200. That machine has been flawless for almost 4 years now (and about 400# of wire). When I was living in a rental house I ran the lincoln off the 30 amp dryer outlet with no problems. it draws a max of 37 amps of 220V. I usually don't need to run it over setting 4 of 7 for anything up to 1/4". Definately step up to the 220V if at all possible.

I'll be moving up to phoenix this month, I'm looking at renting a house in paradise valley. I found a rental near Cactus and Tatem with a 2 car garage and pleanty of secure RV parking for the Bronco and my VW. Most of the stuff I've seen in the same price range doesn't have any yard parking access. I'm hoping I can fit at least my tools and the Bronco in the garage. The titan will have to sit outside and sulk.

arctcknight, I'd be glad to lay down some bead on something you tack together if you get just the 110V. I think Dustin lives out in Sun City or something :histerica

Mitch

yeah think assrammer is still in my possesion...haha That think worked good but yeah its not a 220v by any means. but it worked for what I needed at at the time and taught me how to weld so it was a good investment.

suncity? Im only 24 not 94 :histerica I do live about a mile from sun city tho but Im still in peoria damit! haha

im going to re open this thread cuz i dont want to start a new one and get bitched at....

i want to get a welder to make a chassis for a buggy project. i dont care how they look...just that their strong. ive never even looked at a welder in my life, but i think i understand how it works. im most likely going to teach myself by trial and error till i can get a good strong weld that i trust my life with. what do you all suggest?

did you not read the thread?

i did, but im going to need something more powerful than a 135 they were suggesting if im making a chassis. there will certainly be some spots i need to weld up to 1/2" steel

do i need a 220?

whats a good entry level, easy to use 220?

did you not read the thread?
Dont think so Dustin.

Hey guy, weld that buggy up with "teach yourself welding classes" and God help anyone who rides with you. Without proper instruction, you will never get it right, because you will never understand the principles of welding. You have to have theory before hands on. Without personal instruction, even if you can understand the theory, you will never get it "right".

as far as 220 welders, the big three make good ones, miller, hobart, and lincon. I personally use a miller 210 and love it. technically to weld anything over 1/4" you need a 220v welder. but yeah do yourself some favor and learn to weld on something other than a buggy.

thanks. i want to see if i can spend about 1000 on a welder since i'd spend alot more having it made for me. whats wrong with teaching yourself? did you not see the first post in this thread where i said i would practice until i felt i had a weld i would trust my life with. perhaps butt welding something and see if i can drive my truck over it or have a local shop take a look at it.

would you guys suggest a MIG?

its between a Lincoln SP175 Plus
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipmentdatasheet.asp?p=8962

a Millermatic DVI
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_dvi/

and a Hobart IronMan 210

a cheap course at the local community college would go a long way and save you money! They can teach you how to weld pipe and probably have xray to make sure you aren't messing them up. you probably don't need to spend $1000 on a welder and you can use the rest for a course. just my .02. the cost of steel is up up UP you know? and finding bad welds at 60mph in a buggy would be fun for us to watch, but not so much for you.

That 175+ is bookmarked for me, or the Hobart Handler 180. One of those 2 I am buying when I get the bux. Its 6011 for me until I can. :-)

a cheap course at the local community college would go a long way and save you money! They can teach you how to weld pipe and probably have xray to make sure you aren't messing them up. you probably don't need to spend $1000 on a welder and you can use the rest for a course. just my .02. the cost of steel is up up UP you know? and finding bad welds at 60mph in a buggy would be fun for us to watch, but not so much for you.

they dont have any welding courses. i should know, im in class there from 6pm-10pm 4 days a week. not alot of schools in a metro area.

they dont have any welding courses. i should know, im in class there from 6pm-10pm 4 days a week. not alot of schools in a metro area.

When i learned how to weld, i took two pieces of scrap steel and welded them together.....and then beat them apart with a small hammer.

Took another two, same deal

another two, and finally the weld held.

I then worked on it from there to clean it up cosmetically and still keep a strong weld. I self taught myself to ARC (stick) weld. Then when i finally did get around a mig welder, i taught myself how to do that. TIG i am still working on, i don't get the privelege of being around TIGs very much. Welding is now a daily part of my life at work.

Your first welding experience should not be something your life relies on. Find a local welding supply shop, some of them offer courses. I know there is a chain up here called Linde gas, and they offer some hands on courses.

That miller and lincoln your looking at requires an Argon mix to weld. Do you have access to a gas shop around? You realize that you have to rent a tank, or buy it outright. I would highly suggest the Argon mix over the flux core wire though. You also have to change wire sizes depending on what gauge steel your welding together.

The initial cost of the welder is high cost, but there are costs over time, wire isn't cheap with the price of steel going up, and gases are becoming a little bit more expensive due to homeland security.

ok, so then whats a good flux core welder that can handle at least 3/8 then? id rather not mess around w/ gasses right now.

dude flux core is a waste of money

dude flux core is a waste of money

Why? Don't you get more penatration from flux core?

EDIT: never mind, I see you are referring to flux core minus the gas, right? If that's the case than yes it's useless.

ok, so then which is better for what i've said above:

flux core
argon
both

ok, so then which is better for what i've said above:

flux core
argon
both

Flux core plus argon is best, if you are going to a wire feeder and want good penetration. But you gotta get some lessons, even if you could go to a fabricating shop and ask them to show the basics in exchange for sweeping the floor or something. Whatever you do don't teach yourself, that's a good way to pick up bad and wrong habits.

But you know what? If I were you, for my first welder, I would use stick. You can get a good one for a few hundred and you can get all kinds of rods for whatever type of welding you want with little hassle. The best multipurpose rod is 7018. It is an all position rod and once you get the hang of striking an arc with it, you will find it to be all you will ever need. Until you get the hang of 7018, you could always use 6013, not my favorite, but easy to use, the only drawback, however, is that it's only good for flat welding. Anyways, you'll figure it all out in time.

thanks. so whats a good stick welder that'll handle 3/8?

Whatever you do don't teach yourself, that's a good way to pick up bad and wrong habits.

Yea cause i taught myself and now i do it for a living earning just under 60k a year. I also fab stuff up for paper companies across the world that they use on their machines without failure. Don't ever teach yourself anything, you'll get no where in life with that kind of initiative, always rely on other people to do stuff for you.

If your going to get a welder, spend the money, get a good MIG, with the Argon mix, and sleeve the entire buggy. Your going to spend the money on a stick welder, then see how easy and convienent a MIG is and want a MIG. A good stick welder is going to require 220 volts and your going to want a DC stick welder. DC beats AC when it comes to stick welding hands down.

Yea cause i taught myself and now i do it for a living earning just under 60k a year. I also fab stuff up for paper companies across the world that they use on their machines without failure. Don't ever teach yourself anything, you'll get no where in life with that kind of initiative, always rely on other people to do stuff for you.

If your going to get a welder, spend the money, get a good MIG, with the Argon mix, and sleeve the entire buggy. Your going to spend the money on a stick welder, then see how easy and convienent a MIG is and want a MIG. A good stick welder is going to require 220 volts and your going to want a DC stick welder. DC beats AC when it comes to stick welding hands down.
I'm sensing a little sarcasm there. How is getting someone to show you the right way to weld, relying on other people, exactly. Using that logic, what are you doing asking people here for help/advice/suggestions on how to do stuff on your bronco, clearly you are only hinderring yourself by asking someone here for help.

Are your welds tested? If so and they pass, than good for you, you taught yourself well. I still say having someone to point out what he is doing right or wrong will help him a lot more than being self taught. Even if he went to the library and took out a book with pics about welding, it would go a long way in teaching him how to weld.

I stand by what I said about getting a stick welder, and yes DC is better, that's what 7018 is used on. I have a micro wire mig welder, but I only spent $1400 on it about 13 years ago. It was rated for 3/8" but when it was new, I wouldn't weld anything over 1/4" and that was only if it wasn't going to have to endure any type of stress. About all it is good for is 1/8" max, now. My dads ACDC stick welder, on the other hand was purchased by my dad about 30 years ago from sears and I used that to weld up my HUGE bumper and my roll bar and anything else I don't want to fall apart on me.

Mike, if you want a good mig welder, you will need more than $1000.00. Don't take my word for it, go to a welding supply store and tell them what you plan on doing and see what they tell you. They will also let you try the welders out before you purchase them. If you want to spend a whole lot more than $1000, than yes go mig, otherwise save your money and wait until you get good at welding and can justify spending the money.

I agree with both of you...

i dont want to spend 800 on a stick, then 1500 or more on a mig a year later and i do need to be able to weld thicker than 1/8.but i do want to be able to actually use it. is a mig any harder to learn than stick?

this makes me so mad that i left the merchant marine academy before i took the welding classes. i took machine shop, firefighting, survival, everything about ships pretty much and all that crap but not welding/pipe fitting.

-You can start with a stick, it will only make your MIG that much better
-MIG is easier than stick, but not impossible to learn. Easier with proper instruction.
-A good stick welder is a perfect place to start
-A basic stick welder is AC only, refered to as a "buzz box"
-A more expensive stick welder is AC and DC
-Even a Century buzz box is a good buy, its hard to muck up a buzz box cause there extreamly simple
-A new buzz will cost you about $200-$250
-A used buzz will sost about $100-$200 (I got mine for $75, but I was lucky)
-Get a decent size box, one with 200A output, mine has 230A.
-With at least 180A, a buzz can easily weld 1/4" single pass with great penetration
-Yes, you can still weld verticals, overheads and pipe with a buzz box, though DC is easier to do it with, and MIG is even easier
-If you can weld stick, you can pretty much weld with anything
-A stick welder has a lot of rods to choose from. You can even weld aluminum with special rods, and Ive done cast iron with no pre-heat with nickle rods. Them was sum purty beads too!

So, if you dont wanna wait to get a welder, fetch up a good stick (220V!!!!) and your off! Dont forget VoTech class in "Welding I", then maybe "Welding II"! You will have a LOT of fun and learn much!

Good luck!

-A stick welder has a lot of rods to choose from. You can even weld aluminum with special rods, and Ive done cast iron with no pre-heat with nickle rods. Them was sum purty beads too!


You didn't get ant cracks? What did you weld? Did you pean it?
I tried welding a cracked block on my old 1950 chev and I can't remember now if I preheated it, but my dad said I had to pean it after every say 1/2" stitch. The crack was about 12" long. I was never able to get more than 1/2 of it welded before it would crack beside the weld. I finally just gave up after wasting all of the day with no success. I ended up buying another motor.

Cool a double post!

I still don't think a buggy is a good first project.

Buy whatever welder your going to, and practice with it, then build something like bumpers, a welding cart, something other than something your going to be riding in doing 60 MPH across dunes in.

I still don't think a buggy is a good first project.

Buy whatever welder your going to, and practice with it, then build something like bumpers, a welding cart, something other than something your going to be riding in doing 60 MPH across dunes in.

I'll second that.

Walt, it was the pedastol to a gas grill, 4 legged craw foot. It was kinda thick, but didnt need any special process.

I myself would never try to fix a block, I dont think I got the skills.