I would like to see how you guys build stuff with square tubing. I built my self a tire swing and it came out ok. What I would really like to hear are some tips on keeping everying square and true.

I've just built seat mounts and since I lack a welder, Grade 8 all the way..

Gave me my two inch of lift that I needed this way too, so I'm happy.

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/199877/fullsize/Picture%20114.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/206676/fullsize/Picture%20121.jpg

I am currently building a pickup trailer bumper and tailgate out of 2x3 3/16 for the bumper, 2x2 3/16 for some 36" uprights, and 1x2 11 gauge, and 1x2 1/8" C channel for a 40X 65" tailgate. The bumper matches the one on my Bronco, but half as big.

Edit: square and true, First off measurements are important, then your angles are next. I am planning on using a big framing square to C clamp the metal to to tack it before I finally weld it, after checking it again.

I'd say 70% of what I build, is bulit with square tube

get a nice framing square, level, and a few right angle magnets

get a nice framing square, level, and a few right angle magnets

Also get yourself a combination square.

get a nice framing square, level, and a few right angle magnets

How do you utilize your framing square, I only just bought mine. And how big are your angle magnets, I only have the smallest one they make, it barely holds anything. I need a bigger one, but they are 26 bucks.

get a nice framing square, level, and a few right angle magnetsyep, its pretty simple. last thing i made was a square tube framed bar for my dad's basement, turned out pretty good. its really easy to work with; straight welds and rounded corners give you a good bevel to lay a weld in. i will try to get some pictures of it over thanksgiving, turned out really good

How do you utilize your framing square, I only just bought mine. And how big are your angle magnets, I only have the smallest one they make, it barely holds anything. I need a bigger one, but they are 26 bucks.



most of the time its just to double check to make sure its square.

for magnets get a a few differnt sized ones. harbor frieght has them on sale all the time. I use the smaller ones more I think but I have some of the larger ones too thats nice to hold heavier stuff

thanks for the tips guys. One of my biggest problems was my bandsaw it doesn't exactly cut straight down. it cuts like this \ but not that bad maybe only one or two degrees. and over 2" of tubing it makes a big difference.

another question is 7018 rod that much stronger than 6013?

Even my Chop saw can cut a little crooked, but it seams that if you push down hard it does it more.

I would like to see how you guys build stuff with square tubing. I built my self a tire swing and it came out ok. What I would really like to hear are some tips on keeping everying square and true.
Your best friends for square fitup are a combination square, an angle grinder, and jigs. Cut everything a hair long and grind it square to fit, and that will take care of your 2* error in the bandsaw.

If you need something to be "right" right, you can't beat a plywood jig for cost and speed. I've used 4'x4' 3/4" plywood with 2x6 or 2x8 stiffeners around all four sides in the past with good success. Keep the wood a little damp, and unless your using an OA torch the worst you'll do is singe it a little. Essentially, you can screw blocks or clamps to the plywood surface to serve as guides for location or hold everything where it needs to be. This way you can also lay out trusswork or whatever you're doing in pencil on the plywood beforehand. Steel jigs are better for things that require a LOT of precision, but it takes a lot longer to tack weld all your blocks and spacers to the steel plate and grind everything to exactly where it needs to be -- hence, if you're not doing something like welding up an axle, I wouldn't bother. :thumbup

...I am currently building a pickup trailer bumper and tailgate out of 2x3 3/16 for the bumper...
Hey, that looks dang good so far, be sure to post up some pics as it comes along ...

...another question is 7018 rod that much stronger than 6013?
In theory, E7018 is a 70ksi yield steel, whereas E6013 is 60ksi. Hence, 17% stronger. Realistically, in a lot of the projects we do, we're using 36ksi steel (most plate) rather than 50ksi, so using E70xx vs E60xx will not be critical. If you're using good steel tube (A500B is what most structural steel rectangular tube is made of, at 46ksi) you might want to think about using E70xx if it's a critical application.

If you're building something out of small 1018 or 1020 DOM tubing (like a cage), you MUST use E70xx. 1018 and 1020 are 60-70ksi yield, and your weld material must be at least as strong as the 1020 base material.

If you're building out of 4130 Cr-Mo (Chromoly) then you're a damned fool anyway most of the time. Cr-Mo loses its heat treat near weld zones, and isn't significantly stronger than plain 1020. Chromoly can achieve yield strengths of up to 160ksi or more, but only with heat treatment -- so to get that strength, you'd have to weld up your structure and then re-heat-treat. There are definitely automotive applications where it's appropriate, but most of the time it's overused.

Hey, that looks dang good so far, be sure to post up some pics as it comes along ...

Actually thats my bronco's bumper and reciever. The trailer is 2x3, the bronk is 2x6.

I am thinking that some of my problem came from the fact my welding table sucked. I think i am going to have to make my self a welding table.