Long time listener - first time caller (well, post-er).

I have decided, for better or worse - to put a BroncoII body on my full size frame :banghead

So - I am looking for wackoh... er, I mean others who have tried and done this before! If I can't learn from your mistakes, what the heck good are they? :cry

I am documenting the long process on my web site - and I would like to have some input from anyone who's attempted this... :wacko ... how about it all?

So far I have just begun - tell me what I will encounter - give me info! :notworthy

Sounds like a cool project. Use search and check out one of the many ranger cab swaps which would be similar to your undertaking.

welcome to the board..... gonna take some drive line shuffling and wheelbase changes to make it work...

from center axle to center axle: 94" on a bII... 103" on a fullsize bronco....

that's why it's generally a smaller truck cab stuck on and not a smaller suv.... dont have to worry about lining up rear wheel openings that way... do some searchin and see what you wanna do

gonna take some drive line shuffling and wheelbase changes to make it work...
from center axle to center axle: 94" on a bII... 103" on a fullsize bronco....


Yup - I already saw that and between that and the engine compartment space - I am... well - looking for ideas you could say! :duh

My first thought on wheelbase is to go with a double cardan (CV on both ends) read driveshaft leaving the front end alone completely. I am also OK with cutting the fenders off is such a way that the rear fender would be cut some in the front, and a lot in the rear - while the front fender would be cut a little in the rear, and a lot in the front. That would maximize the body size for the larger tires and let me move the rear axle less. Bobbing the rear frame by moving the gas tank, and the spring hangers up to meet the body mounts is already in the works.

The other thing I see that could happen is that the body is so small that it will litterally fit between the tires. I don't care if it is street legal when done... although it would be nice.

I found a ranger to full size body swap site - not many details there but a few.

Stay tuned...

I'd definitely rethink putting on a full body like that. A pickup cab swap is realitvely simple and you have many options for how to finish out the back of the truck once the cab is on.

If you stick with the BII, be sure to start a thread on it and post lots of pics and comments so others can see what you do and run into.

I'd definitely rethink putting on a full body like that. A pickup cab swap is realitvely simple and you have many options for how to finish out the back of the truck once the cab is on.

I know :cry I know... but I really want the enclosed area for riders and dogs and a pickup cab/bed or cab/flatbed won't provide that.

I will definetly start a thread and my web site will show it all, even if I fail... :banghead

I really like all your tech writeups - especially the one on the front crossmember - I'll probably do that if I decide to move things around in front. I have a pal who shortened a frame and they had mucho-trouble with that.

=mudd=

The Legend swapped a ranger body on his late 70's pickup. came out good.

One question mudtank....WHYYYYYYYYYYYY???????????

One question mudtank....WHYYYYYYYYYYYY???????????


:shocked WE could ask that question about everything we do :wacko :banghead But why ask why?

In any case - I usually proceed in the face of great opposition - so stay tuned and when it's all done (good or bad) - I'll stand, look - and then I'll ask why?

:chili:

Oh - I got that response when I created my avatar-picture... :histerica

But why ask why?

While mind storming the coming crazy body swap - I think I'll need to have or learn or acquire some skills in sheet metal work. Too many reasons to list at this time. Does anyone on the list have any experience in 'welding' or melding sheet metal in ways such as creating or extending body panels, etc... there may be a need for me to modify the Bronco II body itself in place of shortening or chopping frame, driveshafts etc...

Just a thought... :twak

While mind storming the coming crazy body swap - I think I'll need to have or learn or acquire some skills in sheet metal work. Too many reasons to list at this time. Does anyone on the list have any experience in 'welding' or melding sheet metal in ways such as creating or extending body panels, etc... there may be a need for me to modify the Bronco II body itself in place of shortening or chopping frame, driveshafts etc...

Just a thought... :twak
I've picked up a couple books online (Amazon) about sheet metal work and welding. It's a lot different than working with the heavier stuff. I got my first practice on my inner fenders, one of which I promptly crumpled all to hell on my last trip, but the welds held up :toothless

A couple titles to check out. I got something from each of these:
Metal Fabricators Handbook
Welders Handbook from HP Books
The Haynes Welding Manual

:shocked WE could ask that question about everything we do :wacko :banghead But why ask why?

In any case - I usually proceed in the face of great opposition - so stay tuned and when it's all done (good or bad) - I'll stand, look - and then I'll ask why?

:chili:

Oh - I got that response when I created my avatar-picture... :histerica


Fair enough, to each his own.

I like your avitar. I don't ask why, rather, I say cool :twotu:

Got a friend that might be putting his Grand Prix body on a C-10 frame. His got messed up and his friend happens to have the frame. So I'll see what becomes of it.

I think someone I know did the same thing, but he's redneck as hell, and I wouldn't want to have him teach me anything. You ever hear those people with a speech impediment like Elmer Fudd?

there is a guy creating his own h1 with a f150 chassis. look up that thread. talk about sheet metal work.

You can probably eliminate some of the sheet metal work by shortning the wb. The rear spring mounts are rivited to the frame. Simply grind off the heads and redrill/bolt (after careful measurement) back to the frame. You can cheat a bit by kicking the front axle forward a bit in the body and the rear back a bit. For what it's worth the Jeep CJ* is within about an inch of the same wheelbase and extends back enough to cover the 33 gal tank and available in either steel or fglass repro.

never seen a Bronco2 body on a Full size Broncoe frame, but have seen a Chevy S10 body on a K5 blazer fram a few times though.

I'll start by saying I have zero experience in swapping cabs or bodies. Here's my .02. I'd study the hell out of the ranger cab threads to see the options of lining the front of the body up. Once you know where the body will sit with the engine trans, ect, you will know where the rear of the B2 ends and the stock frame extends. Once you have this info you will see how much frame needs to be cut off. Before you do that you will have to remove the gas tank. Also before you cut I'd reinforce it with a crossmember to ensure the frame remains strait. It doesn't have to be a permanent one. Just something to hold it together untill you can tie the rear in together again with a permanent one. This is a good example of what I'm talking about as far as a rear xmember: http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/132452/fullsize/IM000591.jpg
The stock rear crossmember will probably have to be moved forward to fit the stock gas tank back in place with your new shorter frame.

I'd cut your rear fenders strait back like I did to my fronts:
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/147321/fullsize/IM000738.jpg
I've seen jeeps cut like this and it accomodats larger tires easily. The tire size you decide to go with will determine alot on how much trimming you will want to do. Your rear light will probably be in the way and have to be moved to accomodate this so I'd get some simple aftermarkets and mount them in the tailgate/hatchback thingy. lol
I'm sure there's a shitload of variables I left out and you'll have to accomplish them all. Including wiring. I think it will look cool as hell and if you are sticking with stock axles I'd try running 37s with no locker in the front TTB and a Detroit in a 9" in the rear. 35s if you want to be safe. Your wheels/tires will stick out quite far and you'll probably need fender flares if you are to keep it streetable. Go for it. You'll definately have a cool ass ride when your done. Just keep in mind how much work it's going to be. Write out a plan and tackle it one small step at a time. Recognize that this is going to take alot of fabrication and welding will be required. Take a welding class if you don't already know how. That was the beginning of my fabrication hobby. Take Care and definately post up a new post with lots of pictures on your progress if/when you decide to do this. The world is watching. :thumbup

Here's a pic I came across on Pirate. I don't know what the frame is out of though.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2061000-2061999/2061491_23_full.jpg

seems like a helluva project you are undertaking. keep us posted on how you are doing with it.

also i agree with Big Norm, study that thread like crazy

My project in the very early stages. The reason I mentioned the CJ8 is that you have lotsa options and it nearly falls on the chassis with fabbing body mounts and setting the eng back bout 11".
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/12014-2/DSC02219.jpg

Here's a pic I came across on Pirate. I don't know what the frame is out of though.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2061000-2061999/2061491_23_full.jpg
Judging by the location of the frame kickup, it it's a fullsize frame, it's from a Bronco.

Im pretty sure its a stock ranger frame. its definitely not a fullsize. Doesnt look like the right coil buckets, and the frame rails actually fit the valance under the grill.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2061000-2061999/2061491_25_full.jpg

never seen a Bronco2 body on a Full size Broncoe frame, but have seen a Chevy S10 body on a K5 blazer fram a few times though.

The Whiteknight to name one. Started out as a K5, went to an S10 blazer to an S10 truck cab, to sheetmetal.

www.whiteknight.ca

Brian

Im pretty sure its a stock ranger frame. its definitely not a fullsize. Doesnt look like the right coil buckets, and the frame rails actually fit the valance under the grill.

Ya, I think it's a Ranger frame.

One thing I can tell you for sure is those front spring hangers are scary:shocked

why dont you just buy a Bronco 2 and umm swap the drivetrain out of yours into it. idk it just seems easier to me?

:stupid why dont you just buy a Bronco 2 and umm swap the drivetrain out of yours into it. idk it just seems easier to me?

:stupid Do an SAS on it with a D60, One ton Rear, on 38-40" tires. 5.13s. Alot less work since you haven't modified the Bronco yet. :thumbup

The Whiteknight to name one. Started out as a K5, went to an S10 blazer to an S10 truck cab, to sheetmetal.

www.whiteknight.ca

Brian

Aint posted in a while but, the deal wit the white knight was,

The k-5 whiteknight was a totally different truck than the s-10 blazer one.

they didnt swap the bodie

Yeah, you're right, I missed that detail where they bent the K5 frame and changed to a 1 ton frame, which they put the S10 blazer body on.

Brian

WOW :thumbup thanks to everyone for all the fantastic suggestions. I have made some progress, although to look at it now is pretty scary :shocked

Here is what I am looking at now...
http://www.muddtanks.com/BroncoRedux/Images/OnJackstands_small.jpg

I have dropped the axle off of the rear, the gas tank is out, most of the wiring and lines are all coming off - I hate to see what happens when I weld and forget there is a line on the 'other' side... boom or melt! :banghead

I talked alot with a few of my fabricator local people and many of thier suggestions are right in line with you guys! I was all in a hurry to shorten the frame, cut and put it back together. But now the next step is... :chili:

Dropping the Bronco II body onto the existing frame, sliding it around, finding a fit and THEN cutting and shortening.... to get the best fit.

I also have decided that the rear leaf springs are history -- I will be doing a 4 link with either coils or quarter-elliptical. Coils - much eaiser, quarter-ellips, much cooler...

Of course in this thread - and project... I will find many stumbling blocks and problems -- hey! :banghead Found one! There is a major crack behind the steering gear. Pretty typically for a heavily wheeled full size. I'll be looking at BigNorms front crossmember thing... I like it. I'll be cleaning and welding up and probably boxing in that steering gear area. I may move it arround, etc... more to think about :rockon

Just so you all know I do listen and take advice well (when its good ;) ), I acquired two books, Metal Fabrication book and a Welding manual suggested. Great books. Also a great source of sheet metal tool is http://www.eastwood.com/ - Later this summer I'll be needing a good wire welder, and many other things.

:cry Money and time -- that's all I need -- stay tuned I will be updating what's up on this thread frequently, PLEASE :whiteflag PLEASE keep sending suggestions and check out my web site at http://www.muddtanks.com

THANK YOU ALL! :thumbup :twotu:

A biggy is the location of the wheels in relation to the body. The Eng is easy to move around for best location after everything else is determined, I wound with nearly a foot setback. Your web site mentioned a 4 link and possibly narrowing the frame. Both could be accomplished, kinda, with a setup I'm contemplating. Use two front frame sections, preserve the VIN on the one you have the title to, set back to back and connecting with 3x6x3/16 box tubing. The 9" could be adapted easily with weld on wedges and a torque arm should probably be added. In my case I cut off the front frame horns and started at the crossmember with a winch mount replacing the horns with 3x6x3/16.

Here's a pic I came across on Pirate. I don't know what the frame is out of though.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2061000-2061999/2061491_23_full.jpg

Wow, :toothless that's awesome. Looks to me like a F150 frame. The Bronco full size and F150 are slightly different, and I think if you look at the way the front leaf mounts there - on my Bronco there is a two stage height adjustment from the front of the frame to the rear. This frame just jumps up once.

I'd like to find out this guys email address and ask him about fitment in the front/firewall area.... :banghead

why dont you just buy a Bronco 2 and umm swap the drivetrain out of yours into it. idk it just seems easier to me?

Hmmm.... lighter less strong frame rails, etc -- with the bigger heavier engine, etc...

Maybe the work would be less - I am not sure about that - but I know that I'd rather keep the heavier duty drive train in the frame rails it came in, and do it my way :rockon

A biggy is the location of the wheels in relation to the body. The Eng is easy to move around for best location after everything else is determined, I wound with nearly a foot setback. Your web site mentioned a 4 link and possibly narrowing the frame. Both could be accomplished, kinda, with a setup I'm contemplating. Use two front frame sections, preserve the VIN on the one you have the title to, set back to back and connecting with 3x6x3/16 box tubing. The 9" could be adapted easily with weld on wedges and a torque arm should probably be added. In my case I cut off the front frame horns and started at the crossmember with a winch mount replacing the horns with 3x6x3/16.

A big part of this project hinges on keeping the rear-end. It's got 4.88:1 gears and a lock-rite - not cheap to replace. 8.8 rear is pretty strong even compared to the big ones... not AS strong so don't rag on me - but for the money damn close.

You say moving the engine around is 'easy'... eegads.. :banghead ... I look at that and think HOW? Maybe I should detach the Xfer case, and tranny just to get ready for that? Hadn't thought abou that so far... what do ya think? :shocked

Gimme more details on your 3x6x3/16 idea, I don't grok at this point :whiteflag

Thanks - muddtank

I'd position the B2 body on the frame to line it up so your engine and radiator sit nice and neat in the engine compartment. (the above pic looks stupid IMO) Then you will see where you want to fab up your coil or coilover mounts and how you will be wanting to set up your 4 link. I wouldn't cut off the rear untill you've at least fabbed it up and know its going to fit in the fenders. I don't dislike the cutback rear wheelwells in the above pic. It's just stupid how it's placed on the FS frame. Study how guys have been seting up there ranger cabs and how they're positioned on the bronco frame. Once you've got the front figured out you'll be able to figure the back. I agree with using coils or coilovers for the rear and 4 links are cool! :thumbup

There is nothing wrong with an 8.8. I know for a fact that it will stand up to 600hp+ in 3200 lb car with slicks with nothing other than a truck posi and aftermkt 31 spline axles, though it is a good idea to use 9" housing ends to eliminate the C clips. I'm using a 9" with 3.50s because that is what my chassis came with and I'm too cheep to replace it I'll add a doubler to lower gear ratio when it is needed. My other project is a 41 Willys on TJ chassis with 871 blown 383 using an 8.8 with Torsen T2. Im using a 79 frame but the basics are the same I just moved the frame mounts back, In my case I'll have to weld frame mounts to frame because of the total setback. The front rails are paralell and flat so it is just a matter of moving the eng/trans/tcase with the mounts and frame brackets attached to where it needs to be after body position is tied down. Then attach the crossmember to mount and drill new holes for it. Soon as I resolve issues between camera and pc I'll post some pics.
I also didn't want to keep the leafs and since I'll have onboard air I might later bag the suspension. I started to think, usualy dangerious, about how to setup a tough rear suspension. The BB front is a long arm coil with the posibility of 4 shocks. All of the suspension points are worked out so that you would need to make the rear axle look like the D44 front, spring buckets/panhard mount/and wedges for the arms. You would need a 78/9 front frame clip which should be cheep, either F150 or BB. What I was thinking was to cut the rails just past the inner boxing, set them up end to end, and then reconnect with the box tubing. This would result in a fully boxed paralell rail frame setup with a long arm coil suspension on both ends for cheep. I'm mounting a M12000 on each end and am planning to use the truck as a recovery vehicle so I felt the need to box the frame to keep it from being pulled apart and the rear rails have a bit of rust lightning. I would add a torque arm above the rear axle because I'm using a built 460. That done it might be nice to wrist both of the arms on the rear.
BTW I'm using a D30 hp on the blown willys with a 242 so I'll prolly get a bit of ragging as well. Actualy the Jeep BJ started out with a BB I bought for cheep to supply a D44hp for the Willys.

There is nothing wrong with an 8.8. I know for a fact that it will stand up to 600hp+ in 3200 lb car with slicks with nothing other than a truck posi and aftermkt 31 spline axles, though it is a good idea to use 9" housing ends to eliminate the C clips. I'm using a 9" with 3.50s because that is what my chassis came with and I'm too cheep to replace it I'll add a doubler to lower gear ratio when it is needed. My other project is a 41 Willys on TJ chassis with 871 blown 383 using an 8.8 with Torsen T2. Im using a 79 frame but the basics are the same I just moved the frame mounts back, In my case I'll have to weld frame mounts to frame because of the total setback. The front rails are paralell and flat so it is just a matter of moving the eng/trans/tcase with the mounts and frame brackets attached to where it needs to be after body position is tied down. Then attach the crossmember to mount and drill new holes for it. Soon as I resolve issues between camera and pc I'll post some pics.
I also didn't want to keep the leafs and since I'll have onboard air I might later bag the suspension. I started to think, usualy dangerious, about how to setup a tough rear suspension. The BB front is a long arm coil with the posibility of 4 shocks. All of the suspension points are worked out so that you would need to make the rear axle look like the D44 front, spring buckets/panhard mount/and wedges for the arms. You would need a 78/9 front frame clip which should be cheep, either F150 or BB. What I was thinking was to cut the rails just past the inner boxing, set them up end to end, and then reconnect with the box tubing. This would result in a fully boxed paralell rail frame setup with a long arm coil suspension on both ends for cheep. I'm mounting a M12000 on each end and am planning to use the truck as a recovery vehicle so I felt the need to box the frame to keep it from being pulled apart and the rear rails have a bit of rust lightning. I would add a torque arm above the rear axle because I'm using a built 460. That done it might be nice to wrist both of the arms on the rear.
BTW I'm using a D30 hp on the blown willys with a 242 so I'll prolly get a bit of ragging as well. Actualy the Jeep BJ started out with a BB I bought for cheep to supply a D44hp for the Willys.
Sweeeeet.
I started to think, usualy dangerious :histerica
I know where you are coming from. Really I do. lol. :beer

I'd position the B2 body on the frame to line it up so your engine and radiator sit nice and neat in the engine compartment. (the above pic looks stupid IMO) Then you will see where you want to fab up your coil or coilover mounts and how you will be wanting to set up your 4 link. I wouldn't cut off the rear untill you've at least fabbed it up and know its going to fit in the fenders. Once you've got the front figured out you'll be able to figure the back. I agree with using coils or coilovers for the rear and 4 links are cool! :thumbup

Thanks BigNorm - same advice from a local buddy almost verbatim... and he's built 4-5 similar rigs... So that will be the next order of business -- getting the BII body sitting pretty on the frame... :rockon

There is nothing wrong with an 8.8. I know for a fact that it will stand up to 600hp+ in 3200 lb car with slicks with nothing other than a truck posi and aftermkt 31 spline axles, though it is a good idea to use 9" housing ends to eliminate the C clips. Soon as I resolve issues between camera and pc I'll post some pics.


Thinking for me can be dangerous also :histerica

I plan on keeping the 8.8. I'd like to know the viability of using a reverse cut R&P and flipping it over - would be a sweet high-pinion but if it has been done I'm sure I'd hear about that, and I haven't.

Are you saying you put 9" ends on an 8.8? Or that it would be a good idea so I should try that? Sounds do-able since I want to upgrade the drums to discs anyway.

Get that camera working dude! :doh0715:

Thanks

Housing ends available from Moser Engineering or cut off a 'Torino' axle housing.
http://www.moserengineering.com/moser_interior/products.asp?CatID=9
Then get axle shafts from same. To confuse a bit more there is a trick bout using Chev D44 spindles/chev D44 caliper adapters/Ford D44 hubs and rotors and custom axle shafts to add low cost full floating hubs to a 9" which in this case would work with the 8.8.
I plan on using these on the Willys with Lincoln Mk7 brakes, don't like the drum Ebrake from the Explorer or the solid rotor. The BJ will probably use Lincoln Mk5 brakes and if lucky either BB front rotors or CJ7 rotors. Don't know about reverse cut gears for 8.8 but you will lose strength when using reverse cut in rear whereas you gain strength with reverse cut/high pinion on front. Unless you are going to do SERIOUS ROCK crawling with the shorter wheel base you shouldnt need to lift the frame so the need to use a HP in the rear isn't as great. Camera works the DVD dosen't but fixed that just bought a new camera that should be here in a few days. Then I can update my album. This whole BJ thing started out as a way to use some of the JUNQUE I have laying around and has taken over the fab spot in the shop so I need to get it finished so I can get back to the Willys.

A different, and possibly less work, method is what John "squattyd" Sinclair did. The problem with this for me is that I would still have to fix and box my frame rails to keep the winches from pulling it apart.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=3869&s=15883#content
You gotta poke around a bit to see all the pieces.

Just do a D60 rear. They're readilly available, easy enough to find and cheap. They also have around the same ground clearance as a 9" so you'll have FF hubs, 8 lug and good ground clearance. :thumbup Match it up with a 8 lug D44 or if you can afford it go all out with a D60. I don't see the sense in doing all this work if you don't have the axles to back it. :banghead

Everything I've heard bout the D60 is that you have issues with ground clearance and that they are HEAVY. Whether it would be good or not would seem to be based on eng size, tire size, weight, and pounding quotient. I have a '93 Cobra with > 110,000 miles and other than tune up parts, battery and 6 sets of tires it still has all original equip including the clutch and trans. Yet I have friends that had a new clutch and trans by 30k. Depends on how hard you beat on your toys. The 8.8 is quite a bit lighter as is the BII body and you gcan use readily available, cheeper, disks on it.

By looking at his website I think he's going to pound on it. 8.8s don't have a good history of staying together when locked. If he plans on keeping it I'd take the time to truss it up so you don't twist the tubes. I also wouldn't exceed a 37" tire. And that's taking it to the extreme. I'm not dissin' on you Hsss. Your background/projects are commendable. I'm just thinking of this from a wheeling standpoint. Any engine that came stock in a FS would power a D60 without trouble.

That is why I put in the pounding factor. The D60 is much stouter than the 8.8 depends on how the truck is used. One thing that is very important that I didn't mention is that in any performance use the axle tubes MUST be welded to the center and a truss isn't a bad idea or they WILL loosen. In the case of the Willys I will be at bout 2000 lbs with 24" tires and AWD. The tires should smoke before danger of breakage. The BJ should be about 3200 lbs and run 35s. If it goes over or I have breakage I have a set of Deuce axles and will run 52s.

I've had bad experiences breaking a D44 and an 8.8 with 33's so talk all you want about them holding up with big tires and I'll just keep my mouth shut and assume you'll break it soon

That is why I put in the pounding factor. The D60 is much stouter than the 8.8 depends on how the truck is used. One thing that is very important that I didn't mention is that in any performance use the axle tubes MUST be welded to the center and a truss isn't a bad idea or they WILL loosen. In the case of the Willys I will be at bout 2000 lbs with 24" tires and AWD. The tires should smoke before danger of breakage. The BJ should be about 3200 lbs and run 35s. If it goes over or I have breakage I have a set of Deuce axles and will run 52s.
I'd love to see pics of your projects. If you could PM me links that would be great. I don't want to divert from the topic here. I just like a little overkill. I think a 44 front with a 60 rear will be right on target so long as his tires don't get too big. For big meats I'd recomend a minimum of a 60 front and a 70 rear or equivelant (14 bolt, 10.5) 52s! wow! Yeah. Duece axles fit the bill there. you need 44s just to get the same clearance with those monsters as a 60 with 37s. :)

My album is way behind, issues camera vs PC but a fix is on the way.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/v/7slotgrille/hssss/
click on pic to either enlarge or drill down to another album.
Ive always subscribed to "too much is just bout nuff"

A different, and possibly less work, method is what John "squattyd" Sinclair did. The problem with this for me is that I would still have to fix and box my frame rails to keep the winches from pulling it apart.
http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=3869&s=15883#content
You gotta poke around a bit to see all the pieces.

GReat work on that site... what have I gotten myself into!!!:twak

I like the coils and buckets and that setup is nice... mabye 4 links are overkill...:shocked ?

What I like is that its strong. simple, and cheap and repair parts are everywhere. I'm going to do some measuring. One thing I want to do is be able to clock the range box 90 deg and clock the 205 enough to be at or above the frame rail. I plan to go out tomorrow to catch a friend that I think I can get a front frame clip from. For what I'm building this solves a number of problems. I would keep in mind that you might need a torque arm, using a 302 it might not be needed but I'm pretty sure it will with a 460.

BTW in response to your web site discussion bout removing the body. This is the way I jently removed the donor body.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11968-2/DSC02113.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11971-2/DSC02119.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11974-2/DSC02121.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11977-2/DSC02122.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11980-2/DSC02123.jpg

BTW in response to your web site discussion bout removing the body. This is the way I jently removed the donor body.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11968-2/DSC02113.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11971-2/DSC02119.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11974-2/DSC02121.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11977-2/DSC02122.jpghttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/11980-2/DSC02123.jpg

:histerica :histerica :histerica That's the first time I ever saw someone lift the frame off the body. That's awesome:histerica :histerica

It's better on top.

Just out of curiosity (and this may have already been mentioned, as i didnt read every single post) but why not take the BII and just swap over the fullsize axles. That way it wont be anywhere near the fab work thats going to be needed. You'll pretty much get the same results in the long run.

http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/33676-2/Re-exposure+of+DSC00025.JPGhttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/33679-2/DSC00020.JPGhttp://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery2/d/33682-1/DSC00023.JPG
Bad pics, just got camera but wanted to post. Not trying to steal thread but showing what can be done with rebody. Lotsa work to be done but most everything in place. Specs:
79? Jeep BJ in progress
79 Bronco frame & suspension, coils/longarm front, leaf rear
This will prolly be replaced with frame made of two front clips back to back connected with box tubing
D44 hp 3.50:1 open front disk
9" 3.50:1 31 spline open rear disk
Hydroboost mc
HOWE aluminum radiator
460 D0VE, performer, 850dp Holly
Mad Dog fenderwell headers, flows
Lakewood scattershield
Big spline Toploader (close ratio) Hurst Vgate shifter
NP203 Range box (doubler)
NP205 ton low mileage (twin sticked)
33 gal fuel tank
00 TJ body cut down to 2 seater
Porsche 914 buckets
Hardtop/half doors
Flatbed made of galvanized catwalk dump using a very large airbag
66 Ferrari headligtes, total 400 watts high with 4 100 watt bulbs
Purlux SS fog lites
315x75x16 on 16x8 alloys
Warn M12000 front and rear
Onboard air
dual 3G alternators 130 amp

PM DBROWN on here, he recently swapped a B2 on a 79 Frame, had to build some body mounting rails, but it turned out good before he cut it up and scavenged it :)

i know this is a old thread but im new to the site but i was just going to ask why not use a early 66-76 bronco frame its all ready set up with a v8 and there is only about 3 inch diff in wheel base and it works seen it done thats what im planing on doing with my b2 well thats all i have sorry so late