leaf sprung axle swap.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=84679&toggle=fullsize&filename=Tie rod and drag link idea.JPG
See where the drag link is mounted to the tie rod,
Would this work?

I am no steering expert, and i can certainly not afford a high steer set up, or cross over steering.

Whatca all think, is it possible?

thats how most coil ones are mounted, but you will be putting a hell of an angl eon the steering to clear the springs, and i imagine bad bump steer due to the angle changing so much due to the shortness of the drag link.

You see I dont want to bend the drag link under the leafs in order to connect it to the tie rod.
I would like to have something custom made where the hole that is usually up by the knuckle placed a few inches over so that the drag link will be straight and connect directly to the tierod eye thing.

I dont see how it would cause bumpsteer if there is no track bar...

Also if the two came together with a normal tie rod end then it would allow it to move back and forth.

I am not disagreeing with you by any means and I respect your experience I am just kinda throwing thoughts out there.

when your springs move up it will force your draglink left when they move down,the it will yank it the other way. coils do the same without the trackbar matching the draglink angle.

There is a reason that most people run a bent link coming off the pitman arm... because your link isn't perfectly horizontal, you are putting both horiz and vertical forces on the tie rod between the two tires. Given enough force, this could permanently bend it if your driver side tire is very drooped and your drag link is working at almost a 45° angle. Having it near the kuckle allows the vertical force to be transferred to the knuckle through the TRE... not ideal IMO but it works for most people. I don't like the bent links either... I would get some flat top knuckles and go hi-steer! :thumbup

Shiz, anyone got links to high steer web sites that will work on 76-79 Ford Bronco axles?

The only one I found wanted like $800.00 for their spindles with high steer knuckle thingies on it.....:cry

That is more than the axle will cost.

That is the cost of doing it right. You want front leaf springs so go to the Toy forums and the GM forums and look at all of the properly built trucks. One item is the same....Crossover steering, most all will be located above the springs.

Steering is not where you want to save a buck.

Good point.

Originally posted by Beerman
leaf sprung axle swap.
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=84679&toggle=fullsize&filename=Tie rod and drag link idea.JPG
See where the drag link is mounted to the tie rod,
Would this work?

Whatca all think, is it possible?

Jer, that's nearly identical to mine. You'll be fine. I have plenty of clearance at my leafs with a drop pitman arm. Nathan clears his leafs without a drop pitman arm, but barely.

Since your spring will theoretically be 2" more inboard than mine, you'll need the drop pitman arm. If you exceed 6" of lift you may have problems again.

Thanks Keith. That is what i will plan on then. It sure is cheaper than that high steer stuff.

You see I thought I was going to be sitting lower than your leafs do and I would either need to have a bent drag link, or a high steer like Chris's.

I am glad you cleared that up.
Cant wait to get started.

Originally posted by Beerman
Cant wait to get started.

U need an axle first!

Originally posted by Keith_L
U need an axle first!


Minor Details. Minor Details.

I dont know to much about it Beerman, But, Looking over the Pirate site...The one thing that is constantly done right is steering. Some people have their own little way of doing each part...Or changing the mouting point of this or that,....But, Good steering is good steering. I would hate to see you with tons of bumpsteer. But, Comparing your Drawing to Keith's superford pics...You should be about right on.

One question, Why No Trac-bar? Is there a specific reason?

Originally posted by Drilim
One question, Why No Trac-bar? Is there a specific reason?

Leafs spring and locate the axle

Beerman, that is how I had mine for the first 2 days and the bump steer was worse than TTB. :D Depending on the spring you use you may get away with it. Keith L can do it cuz he has stock springs, and 2.5" lift springs my still be ok, but with my 4" lift springs we had to put a very steep bend in the draglink to clear the leaf. Under compression it was impossible to bend it enough.

Take your right side Ford knuckle to a machine shop and have them plane it. This method is not as good as using the Chevy knuckle, but the Ford ones have enough meat on them. Took my buddy about 15 minutes. Then go spend the $110-$150 for a hi-steer arm. Do it right now or do it later. ;)

Thanks for the help.
My original thoughts were to bring the drag link mounting eye in little closer to the middle than what Keith has on his tie rod so that it will clear the leafs. Then when Keith reminded me that he is using a drop pitman arm, and that is how he cleared.
I also referred back to the pics he let me take of his rig when I was out at his place and it made more sense.
Sometimes i am just a little slow.

Then I drove with Keith and his ride was very smooth, it drove very nice on the highway with leafs and 37" muds.
I was truly impressed.
It reminded me of the time when Dustin used to say that he would never go SAS, then he drove Scotts, and that was enough for him. HEHEHE, LOL

In the past I always argued for the leafs because it seemed like a better idea for my type of wheeling, and then when I drove in Keiths rig it just made my decision that much more easier.

I asked Keith about ten million questions, and it is way easier to see what is going on when your driving in the rig rather than having him or anyone else explain it over the forum.

Keith did not seem to experience any bump steer.
He also mentioned that he never experienced bump steer off road on flex or stuff.
Keith's set up is impressive to me because he didnt have to spend tons of money and get all kinds of fancy parts to get his swap done, and to get it as capable as he wanted it to be.
I admire anyone who has the blood, sweat, and tears to get the swap done by what ever methods they did so again i am not saying that anyone's set up is better than anyone else.
But again after talking, and driving with Keith it just put the nail in the coffin for me to go with leafs.

I also want to thank Chris Bradly (bronco boy) because his write up is certainly going to help Keith and I when we do my swap because i am hoping that it will be almost idenitcal to Chris's with the way we have to box and x-member the front of the frame.
So I am on my hunt for my high pinion D44 but it will take me a while to get one, but I have some peeps looking out for me and maybe I will get lucky. I am not going to just "settle" for teh first one I see. I really want to get the right one the first time around.
Also if I happen to trip over a Dana 60 during my hunt then I will change my plans a little and hang a D60 instead of the 44.
But since I am buying heavy duty parts to begin with then I wont have to start over if I get a 60, Make sense?
Sorry for teh long ass post but i just want to give praise where praise is due and let you all know that the hunt is on.
NO MORE TTB LIFT QUESTIONS< OR THOUGHTS FROM BEERMAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

Oh and another thing is:
I am going to do the swap with just spicer and stock replacement stuff first.
Then after i can afford to get locked up, and other stuff out of the way, then I will start thinking about high steer conversion stuff and or DOM drag link and tie rod with heimed ends.
We are just going to weld some angle iron on the rods to start with.
I dont think I will ever go with warn shafts and CTMs because for the cost of that I would concider going with a D60, and if I ever get to the point where I am breaking 44 shafts a lot then I will upgrade.

I also plan on "beefing" up the rear 8.8 during the swap as well.
I will have the housing reinforced and the shafts replaced with new stuff. I know it is not nearly as strong as a 10.25 but it will work for me.

It reminded me of the time when Dustin used to say that he would never go SAS, then he drove Scotts, and that was enough for him. HEHEHE, LOL

all it takes is to drive one, I was corrupted:toothless

Any ideas on steering for a ball joint leafed D60? I don't see how I could do high steer. Will the stock stuff work for now?

Try this link i think they may have want you need but it aint cheap...

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/new/parts/parts_inside_index.html

Originally posted by Swamp Donkey
Will the stock stuff work for now?

Why wouldn't it?

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/new/parts/parts_inside_index.html
I'm guessing steering kit E, for the 93 D60. Expensive, damn

Yup, and your right DAMN!!

Does this look unsafe to anybody else?
http://www.offroadunlimited.com/new/parts/crossover/images/index_32.jpg

Originally posted by muddybronco
Does this look unsafe to anybody else?
http://www.offroadunlimited.com/new/parts/crossover/images/index_32.jpg


hahahahaha, thats show-truck material right there for sure :histerica

Originally posted by muddybronco
Does this look unsafe to anybody else?


No. Why do you think it looks unsafe?

Take a look at any lift kit on the market today for a truck with a D44 axle. You get a steering knuckle spacer, which is what the picture is showing. Everybody does it. BDS, Pro-Comp, Superlift, Skyjacker, even me! They even do the same for D60's. There is nothing wrong with using a steering block spacer, up to a max of 3". :)

hello chris. When did you make it over here?

Originally posted by plug ugly
hello chris. When did you make it over here?


Hi Damon. I've been lurking for a while. My local BBS is a snoozer as of late, so thought I would hang out here. :)

Originally posted by bronco boy
No. Why do you think it looks unsafe?

Take a look at any lift kit on the market today for a truck with a D44 axle. You get a steering knuckle spacer, which is what the picture is showing. Everybody does it. BDS, Pro-Comp, Superlift, Skyjacker, even me! They even do the same for D60's. There is nothing wrong with using a steering block spacer, up to a max of 3". :)

Does the spacer just sit between there with just the studs holding it in place? It has a very narrow base for how tall it is... seems iffy to me, but hey if everybody is doing it..... :lolup

[QUOTE]Originally posted by muddybronco
Does the spacer just sit between there with just the studs holding it in place?

Yes. You have to remove the factory studs from the knuckle and install the longer ones that come with the block.




It has a very narrow base for how tall it is... seems iffy to me, but hey if everybody is doing it..... :lolup

It does taper at the bottom ever so slightly, but there is still lots of meat contacting the knuckle. I had to shave an itty bitty more to clear the ball joint to my liking. Trust me, it's fine. :D

Originally posted by muddybronco
Does the spacer just sit between there with just the studs holding it in place? It has a very narrow base for how tall it is... seems iffy to me, but hey if everybody is doing it..... :lolup

Stock, it's probably fine. Personally I'd think with hydro-assist that'd be sketch city. If the tire was wedged real good the ram would just push that arm right over, there looks to be adequate leverage there for failure. Of course I'm basing this off looking at one pic online. I'm an internet armchair quarterback.

Originally posted by Keith_L
Stock, it's probably fine. Personally I'd think with hydro-assist that'd be sketch city. If the tire was wedged real good the ram would just push that arm right over, there looks to be adequate leverage there for failure. Of course I'm basing this off looking at one pic online. I'm an internet armchair quarterback.

WTF do you know???? :p

This set up is a lot stronger than you guys "think". Yes if you had hydro-assist and a tire wedged it may bend, but so would a lot of other things. :)