Andy351
10-10-2006, 01:59 AM
does anyone have that picture/write up that was floating around showing where to drill a steering box for hydro assist? if not can you point me in the right direction?
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View Full Version : tapping steering box for hydro assist Andy351 10-10-2006, 01:59 AM does anyone have that picture/write up that was floating around showing where to drill a steering box for hydro assist? if not can you point me in the right direction? kenny714 10-10-2006, 02:09 AM Here is one for a Toyota:uke: that may help. I'll look for more. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=10579.0 Pantsman 10-10-2006, 02:10 AM Is this (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10413&highlight=hydro+assist) what you are looking for? kenny714 10-10-2006, 02:17 AM Found the Ford one too. Here ya go.....:thumbup http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10413 http://4x4.forensick.net/88bronco/images/sbr/index.htm Andy351 10-10-2006, 02:37 AM thanks thats what i was looking for. kenny714 10-10-2006, 02:47 AM Beat me to it Pantsman. :beer badass1tonf100 10-10-2006, 10:50 AM pirate's 4x4 has a write up and iirc raf did one as well Larston 10-10-2006, 12:54 PM I just drilled my box according to Bronkzilla's directions and found I didn't have enough threads in the pressure passage hole. Be sure to drill completely to the bottom of the passage and plan on grinding the tap to get it to run deep enough to get enough thread engagement. I only have about 2 1/2 usable threads right now, I'll be retapping with a ground down tap to get at least 5 to 7. On the plus side, it really is a simple job even when combined with the overhaul. reptillikus 10-10-2006, 11:38 PM Use a Blind Tap instead, and you wont have to grind the tap up to get more threads :thumbup Larston 10-12-2006, 10:07 AM Use a Blind Tap instead, and you wont have to grind the tap up to get more threads :thumbup A blind pipe tap? Got a pic? badass1tonf100 10-12-2006, 01:46 PM A blind pipe tap? Got a pic? wondering the same thing reptillikus 10-12-2006, 06:59 PM Dont have a pic, i borrowed one from my father who borrowed it from his now ex-job. collinsperformance 10-12-2006, 07:14 PM i heard them called bline, bottom or plug taps. Plug taps are the most common. The taper at front of a plug tap is steeper then on the taper tap. More care must be exercised when starting a plug tap, but a fuller thread is cut in blind holes. Most often, enough clearance can be given at the bottom of a blind hole, that the entire tapping operation can be done with just a plug tap. A bottom tap can produce a nearly full thread right to the bottom of a hole. Because the taper at the point of a bottom tap is so steep, it is very difficult to start a bottom tap. Usually a blind hole is first taped with a plug tap, then finished with a bottom tap. mike Larston 10-12-2006, 07:27 PM i heard them called bline, bottom or plug taps. Plug taps are the most common. The taper at front of a plug tap is steeper then on the taper tap. More care must be exercised when starting a plug tap, but a fuller thread is cut in blind holes. Most often, enough clearance can be given at the bottom of a blind hole, that the entire tapping operation can be done with just a plug tap. A bottom tap can produce a nearly full thread right to the bottom of a hole. Because the taper at the point of a bottom tap is so steep, it is very difficult to start a bottom tap. Usually a blind hole is first taped with a plug tap, then finished with a bottom tap. mike This only applies to regular taps, pipe taps don't come in a bottoming version. They have to be ground down. I suspect the one reptillikus' dad came up with had already been ground down for another job. reptillikus 10-12-2006, 10:35 PM Its possible it was ground, but if it was, well then damn, the guy who did it knew what he was doing; it looked like it was made that way. Ive ground up taps before, but they always look like they were ground. Larston 10-13-2006, 09:41 AM I finished up my box last night. I ground most of the starter threads off a new tap (about four threads) and back ground the flutes about 5 degrees to keep a good cutting edge. That was enough to pick up another four threads on the fitting in the pressure passage which makes the fitting feel very secure. badass1tonf100 10-13-2006, 10:21 AM I finished up my box last night. I ground most of the starter threads off a new tap (about four threads) and back ground the flutes about 5 degrees to keep a good cutting edge. That was enough to pick up another four threads on the fitting in the pressure passage which makes the fitting feel very secure. can you post a pic of how you modified the tap ? Larston 10-13-2006, 08:20 PM Here's a try. I left the pics full sized on Supermotors. Click each pic to go to Supermotors, then select "View original size" under the picture. These are big, about 1.5Mb each. This is a comparison of an unground and the ground tap. There isn't a lot of material removed, mainly just the starting threads. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/444158/fullsize/132-3300_img.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/444158) This picture is a bit fuzzy, but you can see where I back ground the flutes on the tap. They are only knocked back about 5 degrees. You can see that I did a pretty shitty job of it as the grinding marks don't cover the full surface of the flute. It worked very well, though. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/444160/fullsize/133-3301_img.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/444160) If you look close enough, you can see the back grinding here. http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/444161/fullsize/133-3302_img.jpg (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/444161) badass1tonf100 10-13-2006, 08:29 PM thanks larry |