OK, thanks to the man Keith he was able to find me a Dana 44 HD (leaf sprung).
(we) are still collecting the rest of the parts now.
I still need to get:
Overhaul kit from JBG (includes all the bearings, seals, u-joints, etc.)
Pinion flange, nut, washer. from JBG
Spindle bearings
4.88 Ring & Pinion (Precision gear from JBG)
Ball joints--JBG
Brakes, rotors, etc.
Maybe, an ARB locker if the money situation is good.
Shocks
and a few other misc parts.

We plan on getting it started in early 2004.


Check out my autosig for pics.

:thumbup

Why no 10.25 rear and convert front to 8 lug?

looks great, make sure when you do it you do a writeup so i know how to do it when the time comes, although ill be doin it with a 60! :goodfinge :goodfinge

wes

I have other plans for the 8.8.
I have no need for a 10.25 at the moment, and I am barely going to be scraping by doing just the front for now.

A 60 was a little overboard for me as well.

For my style, I am going 37's and d44 HD, and the 8.8 but reinforcing the 8.8 somehow when i figure out what i am going to do.
Just for the fun of it.
I am NOT a throttle junky and prefer to take my time out in the sweet wilderness getting through my obstacles. i have nothing to prove to anyone so I should be fine until i can afford more crap in the future, or if my "style" upgrades to a lil something more hardcore.

Originally posted by wes 03
looks great, make sure when you do it you do a writeup so i know how to do it when the time comes, although ill be doin it with a 60! :goodfinge :goodfinge

wes
well i'll be doing mine with rockwell/unimog hybrids:goodfinge

Cool, I wasn't doggin' ya, just wondering cause the 1 ton rears are so cheap around here.

I know you have already decided, but have you thought about the Ford9" Plenty of upgrades for it. It can be built to one-ton strength.

Back to your 44. What are your plans for steering?

Isnt that HD axle 8 lug? are you going to switch it to 5?

If so..talk to me...I want to switch my 44 to 8 lug.

About the 9"
I gotsa 96, so i am kinda limited on rear axles because of the VSS crap, and the exciter ring.
I have to have it for all the ecm crap, shift points, speedo, etc.
The 10.25 is pretty much a straight swap, but its just the cost for the axle, gears, shortening the d-shaft, u-bolts, shims, and a few other misc doo dads.

Crazed, yes it HAD 8 lug stuff but Keith worked something out with the yard guy and got me the 5 lug stuff and a bunch of other goodies. so i dont have the 8 lug stuff. Sorry man.
I think it was all part of some deal that he was able to work out for me.
Talk to Keith_L and see if he can talk to his contact about getting the 8 lug stuff. Its worth a shot.:shrug

If i had to choose a rear axle of my choice i would probably go 14 bolt.
Argueably the strongest "common" oem rear axle.
Parts are a dime a dozen from what i have heard, and I have yet to hear or see anyone break anything out of a 14 bolt.

We all know why there easier to get, there chevy axles, chevys are about as plentiful in the junk yards, as bling bling is on p-diddy! :toothless :toothless

Hey...no prob, just throwing it out there...

Its all good brother man :beer
I wish you luck in your search.

Congrats brah, I ordered my d44 today too!:thumbup (I didn't think to ask if it was HD or not Crazed...if it is we'll work something out...:toothless ) I am also collecting up odds and ends to do the swap. A bunch of us are planning an SAS/lift party one week-end on mine ("The Beast") and Drilim's rig. Good luck with your swap Beerdude!:beer

Thank you, and good luck with yours as well.
I will be in good hands, eerrrrrr my truck will be.:beer

for stuff like ball joints & other misc crap, why not try locally first, i bet its cheaper. also is JBG selling gears for the same cost as precision or less? i have always had good luck with JBG, but if im buying something they are just going to call precision gear for, i can do that and then theres no question about who i call for warranty. plus they may give you a deal on master overhaul kits, if not, they are on ebay all the time. good luck, glad you got your stuff. i got 2 D44s if anyone near kansas needs one...

I have tried precisions web site and get nothing.
I didnt try to call them.
Their ad in the magazines say "WE SELL WHOLESALE ONLY"
Just like that in all caps as if they dont want joe schmoe calling in to buy parts. :shrug
I may give em a try.


I just figured Jeff's cuz they have always treated me right, never had a bad part or been rubbed the wrong way, and I like knowing that my money went to a fellow wheeler and "person" instead of a god damn huge ass corporation like 4wpw who really doesnt give two squirts of piss if you ever come back.
I think that by mentioning that I am a member of FSB when I make my purchases, it just goes to show that they might have to anie up on teh customer responiveness a little because they wouldnt want me coming here and talking smack about their business.
:shrug who knows. Just a thought.
But you are 100% right, sometimes it does come right down to the price you pay.
For this project its all about saving money so I appreciate your advise bud.

Jer:thumbup

Finally PG web site is up.
they say that there are building a new site soon.
www.precisiongear.com
I am going to call them today for pricing and see what i can get. :shrug

Jer, try Drivetrain Direct

you got an addy or number :goodfinge

Jk
I got it.
http://www.drivetraindirect.com/html2/dtdframehome3.html

Thank you bud. looks like a good web page. :thumbup

it's about time fawker.....you've asked enough Q's already:goodfinge

I know, and to think I am still going to probably ask more...
:goodfinge
I will finally roll with the big boys.:beer

raf looked around and found the cheapest gears. it just takes some hunting. try randys ring and pinion too. i found my tie rod ends at all the places in town, but only o'reileys had them in stock. one is freaking $45 and the other is $25. i just need to find an end for the drag link. but its just easier to get warranty on a part locally. AXE

but its just easier to get warranty on a part locally.

Have to agree on that too. I bought my Edelbrock shocks from 4wp. I sheared off the top of the shock one time and had to send it back. Had I bought it locally, it could have been an easier exchange. Most local places will match internet prices if you bring a printout of the store and price.

Drivetrain direct has way good deals but they are real dicks on the phone.
I can get front and rear 4.88's and front and rear overhaul kit package Power deal for $519.00
Doesnt seem to bad but thats only like a discount of $11.00 from what I can get it at JBG for.

Who knows what they want for shipping though?

Would you peeps out there say that superior gear is better than Precision or are they about the same?

Drivetrain direct has Superior, comes with two year warranty and they are in Corona, CA

JBG has the precision and I have no idea what their warrany is, and they are in Michigan so I imagine that the shipping may put me over what the quote was from Drivetrain Direct.

Who knows I am kinda stuck right now...:banghead

What are you doing about your accordian frame and the front hangar?

Originally posted by Swamp Donkey
What are you doing about your accordian frame and the front hangar?

I don't see that being a huge problem truthfully. I'm thinking just plate both sides of it. Maybe 3/16" on the outside and 1/4" on the inside if you want. This will only move the spring eye 3/16" outboard which the bushings will easily tolerate.

My setup doesn't line up perfectly anyway, neither does Seboh's or Nathan's. Leafs are very forgiving to slight variations side to side.

Anyone see any huge problems with this plan? Speak up!

Ya what he said :toothless :thumbup

In thinking about it more I'm thinking of just doing an entire (second) box around the framehorn. I mean it's already boxed for the stupid crumple zone.... but it'll be hard to effectively weld plate on the ripples since there will be minimal contact. Rather than try to fill in the ripples, just first weld a plate to the top and bottom of the framehorn, which is say, 1/2" wider so a 1/4" sticks off either side. You can lay a good bead on here following the ripples. Then slap your vertical pieces on either side and weld them to the horizontal pieces which are top and bottom.

IOW, build a box around the framehorn.

Sure, let's go with that and pretend like we know what we're doing in case anyone is watching ;)

Sounds good to me bud.
I hope we can make a x-member in the mix also, but I know we already have plenty of hoops to jump through.

If we can do it, I am hoping to incorporate a custom front bumper into it someday, maybe in 2007 or so :cry:thumbup

Originally posted by Blaze
Congrats brah, I ordered my d44 today too!:thumbup (I didn't think to ask if it was HD or not Crazed...if it is we'll work something out...:toothless ) I am also collecting up odds and ends to do the swap. A bunch of us are planning an SAS/lift party one week-end on mine ("The Beast") and Drilim's rig. Good luck with your swap Beerdude!:beer

Blaze......Where are you guys planning on having that LIFT PARTY?

I have my SuperLift 4" complete, I wanna install but, I am limited to watt I can do. I can look and point:shrug :shrug :shrug ......

LMK

Allcruisen :imp :usa

I'd just cut it off completely. Chop all the crumple zone off, rebuild it from flat plate. Take a weekend to hack on the frame, then come back in a few weeks for the "swap".


On second thought.... I'm thinking it would be a PITA to line up. definitely lots of measuring and double-checking... two things I know Keith has trouble with.

Just do coils.

Originally posted by allcruisen
Blaze......Where are you guys planning on having that LIFT PARTY?

We have been talking about doing it at JAFO's pad, but it's not hammered out yet...thats kinda his call. But as far as including your lift job in the mix, it's cool with me. I completely understand you have limits to what you can do vs. want to do, and I'd be more than glad to help out...you point, I'll wrench!!!:toothless

Originally posted by seboh
Just do coils.

No thanks!
We will stick with the no track bar, no coils, no coil buckets, no track bar reinforcement (after breaking it off on the trail like so many of you coils guys do), no extra cost route and do leafs.
Its good to know that we utilize mostly junk yard parts, and it does just as well off road as the guys who spend piss loads of money on the coil route. (This should start a flame war, LOL)

OH, and according to all of Keith's write ups he does plenty of measuring, but I am sure you are just breaking his balls
:goodfinge :goodfinge :goodfinge :beer

Isnt the rule cut twice measure once :toothless

It wont matter, the way i look at it Keith and I will have plenty of liquid courage to keep us guessing, but if my junk flexes as well as his in the end then more power to us:beer :beer :beer

Just be sure to carry spare main leafs. :D

Originally posted by seboh
Just be sure to carry spare main leafs. :D

Or lots of duct tape:toothless

dosent that axle have that 31 and inch spring plate spacing??
Keiths has that 36" one so are you going to get new perches' and weld them on?:shrug

Originally posted by Keith_L
IOW, build a box around the framehorn.

Glad to see someone else think of this...it's the route I was planning on for my trailrig swap...:thumbup

This isn't accordian style horn, but I figured the principle should be the same....:shrug
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=81911&toggle=fullsize&f=d60_073a.jpg

The problem with the accordion style horns is they're built like those bendy-straws we used to use as kids. They're designed to buckle under load.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=92781&toggle=fullsize&f=images.jpg

Would you really want to hang your front suspension from a sippy cup? :D

Originally posted by seboh
Would you really want to hang your front suspension from a sippy cup? :D

Sure, once you've plated it on all sides.

Can someone get me a pic of the crumple zones? I'm not recalling how far back they go.

Here ya go Keith, this is a pic. I took for measurements for my bumper mounts so ignore the bottom measurements, I modified it and the top measurements are for you... From tip of horn to back of last "ripple" is about 14 inches give or take a few cm's..
The one thing I hadn't considered was the body mount seen in the pic. But what the hell, were fabbing right?? I'll just fab that up too...:shrug Whatcha think??

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=92793&toggle=fullsize&f=Keith1.JPG

Blaze, thanks but that pic of the actual crumple zone was a little small. I recalled Autofab has dealt with this to some extent, found a better pic here:

http://www.autofab.com/Photo13_12-11-98_4_21_PM.jpg

Also, see this page, all kinds of good stuff including kind of what we're discussing:
http://www.autofab.com/front%20bumper%20kit.htm

This will be a bit more work than anticipated. I think I'd just torch that body mount out of there (the rivets), plate it all the way back, then weld the body mount back on. You'll be moving the body mount out 3/16", shouldn't be a problem and the hole could always be enlarged if necessary me thinks.

Edit: looks like the body mount is welded on, not riveted. No matter

In thinking about this more, we're making this too complicated. Just sleeve the whole framehorn with some rectangular tube.

Weld it front and back of the sleeve, and do some spot welds on some of the protruding welds! Sweet, I think this could work.

I need measurements of the widest part of the crumple zones both vertically and horizontally. IOW what size rectangular tube would fit the snuggest?

The snuggest huh?
Is that the word of the day:toothless

If no one posts bud, i will measure everything when i get home this evening.

That reminds me, I kinda brought it up before but i dont think we ever elobarated on it.

But with whatever option we go with (crumple zone reinforcement)
do you think we will still be able to work something into a pretty simple custom front bumper?

Nothing complicated, I just want a piece of straight flat steel across the front and out just far enough to put a foot on , or to mount lights on.

I am sure something can be done, but what do you think?:shrug :shrug

I know we already have enough on our plate, but it is something to ponder about I guess for the future...

Anything's possible..... we should get the framehorns boxed/sleeved and go from there.

Ya, you know me, always getting ahead...:twak :twak

Just got back from a friends and his super duty has crumple zones. I didn't have my camera, but if you get a chance look under one. It has spring hangers maounted at the crumple zone....:shrug I of course will still prolly reinforce mine, I'm just saying Ford must think it's pretty sturdy...:toothless

P.S. sorry Keith I just whipped that pic up from pics I had on my puter...:shrug

I will taske pics of my friends super duty tonight.
I hope I willhave sufficient light.
if not tomorrow sometime.
I have a friend who has a 1997, and another friend who has a 2002 so i will take pics of both for referrence.
Thankfully they are cousins and live together so it should be easy to track both of them down.:toothless

Originally posted by Beerman

they are cousins and live together so it should be easy to track both of them down.:toothless


they do that in Utah too huh ............ I thought it was only west virginia :toothless




Keith .. send me that pic doing the hardcore nose down steepy decent in Moab you have .. will ya :shrug

Originally posted by WES
looks great, make sure when you do it you do a writeup so i know how to do it when the time comes, although ill be doin it with a 60! :goodfinge :goodfinge

wes

Dude, you need a Bronco first :toothless



Keith, I think you're onto something. I'd do what you plan and build a box around the accordian frame, then use the DOM tubing as sleeves- just like yours- having the DOM going thru the accordian and thru the box that you build around it. The DOM should strengthen it some. If it still doesnt look strong enough, then you can tie both frame ends with some tubing- like ORU's. Or maybe you could have the tubing that connects both frame ends, go thru the boxed/accordian ends and you can weld them on the outside of the frame as well as the inside.

Keith you have mail;)

I was able to get a few measurements off my buddy's '96 Bronco. Looks like the crumple zones are about 3" wide, taper from 5 to 5.5" high, and go back 14" IIRC. Due to the taper, I'm thinking just "sleeve" it on three sides, ie both sides and the bottom. Maybe get some 3x6 or 3x5 (does this exist?) rectangular tube, cut the top as needed.

dont know if this helps any but when I did my bumper I boxed in my frame in the crumple zone. however I did cut a large portion of it out when doing the bumper. all I did was use 3/16 plate and built a box and weled it to the frame. I used the spaces in the crumple zone for the nuts weled on the inside for the rest of the bumper. granted this is just for a bumper and not for a improtant peice of equipment.

Originally posted by Dustin
dont know if this helps any but when I did my bumper I boxed in my frame in the crumple zone. however I did cut a large portion of it out when doing the bumper. all I did was use 3/16 plate and built a box and weled it to the frame.

Got pics loser? :goodfinge

here (http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45261&toggle=fullsize&filename=Pb300083.jpg)
and here (http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=45257&toggle=fullsize&filename=bumper.JPG)

see the knob takes care of me:brownbag

hey beerbiotch, your inboxx is full
Better news
this is the short side shaft compared to a 1/2 ton. it is close enough to work
the HD is on the bottom
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=94162&toggle=fullsize&filename=DSC01518.jpg
HD on right.
HD has some more beef by the yoke, but i have never broke one there anyways.....
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=94163&toggle=fullsize&filename=DSC01519.jpg

In Nobs second picture it looks like the body mount is right in front of the steering box.Is there a possibility to cut the frame off at that point and add new frame horns?The crumple zone looks to be pretty straight on the top and the bottom(correct me if I am wrong).I was thinking if you could cut it behind the mount then you could put plate(or box tubing)inside the remainder of the frame then weld plate plate(or slightly larger box tubing)around the outside of the new section of frame.This would give you double thickness where you are going to mount the front spring perch.You said you want to have a custom bumper so you shouldn't have any problem fabbing up a mount on the front of the new frame.Just a thought.I might be crazy,but I think it could work.

it's actually Dustin's pics

Yea,I know,but you posted them. :)

that would weaken the frame to much i would think, especially with it having a major mount on it like a suspension mount

wes

This probably doesn ot matter, but just because I just finished all my front hangar stuff up...after boxing the inside of the frame, the distance between the two was exactly 35 inches, we then cut the 4x2x3/16in rectangular xmember to 35inches and it fit perfectly 'snug':D

Thanks BA, the hd unit does look beefier, glad i got one.

let's see it ... pics man :toothless

Originally posted by Damager
let's see it ... pics man :toothless

Right now it's just piled up in the back of my van, but Jer might have those pics floating around.......

Originally posted by Damager
let's see it ... pics man :toothless

Click on my SF sig, and I put some of the pics Keith gave me on there.

It doesnt look like much now, but when we get digging around in there I will post more pics as the project gradually moves on.

I will try my best to be a pic whore:toothless :toothless

I blew it, I should have brought the damn paper on Thursday :banghead , there was a 78 F-250 4x4 for $500 with 460!!!!:banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead

That sucks Mike.
I hope you find one soon enough.:beer

I picked up my HD-44 on Sunday, $200.00

***Updated pics here
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=1314&s=14787#content

***Updated pics here
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=1314&s=14787#content


Hey Beerman, why did you guys cut off the right spring perch? :confused:

Hey Beerman, why did you guys cut off the right spring perch? :confused:

Notice the spacing on the front hangers?

Much easier to accomodate the 36" center to center spring perch spacing, new spring pads to come

Ya what he said :GRIN

Notice the spacing on the front hangers?

Much easier to accomodate the 36" center to center spring perch spacing, new spring pads to come


Maybe cuz I'm sick right now I'm missing something?!?

What springs are you using?

My axle, will have better pics soon.
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/showmedia.php?id=99054

Maybe cuz I'm sick right now I'm missing something?!?

What springs are you using?

Remember, from outside edge to outside edge of the framehorns on Beerman's '96 and your '86, the distance is the same. So, if that is true you can see you built your front xmember to accomodate the earlier 32" spring perch spacing. We're building to accomodate the newer 36" spring perch spacing. This is, IMO, the easier approach. It's easier to re-locate the spring perches than to box the framerail under the passenger compartment as you did. Plus, I've done 2 swaps already which used the 36" perch spacing so this is familiar ground for me. Since Jer lives 8 hours away we can't run into any unforseen problems during the actual swap.

The 36" spacing, IMO, makes it easier to build the front xmember ('cause you're flush with the outside edges of the framehorns), and the rear hanger for the front springs can be a stock unit from any '80-97 F250 or 350, just as I used on my D60 swap.

Carefully note where the front hangers are placed in relation to the edge of the framehorn on your xmember and Jer's xmember:

http://chrisb.users.superford.org/Projects/SAS_36.JPG

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=96708&toggle=fullsize&f=Beerman 063.jpg

We're using a 3" spring of some variety, probably F250 springs for starters.

So your going outboard of the frame at the rear?

So your going outboard of the frame at the rear?

Same thing that myself, Nathan, Shawn and Swamp Donkey have done.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=77126&toggle=fullsize&f=DCP_0299.JPG

Stock hanger as I mentioned above. I've got them sitting on my property, they just have to be torched off the donor.

Shawn's homebuilt version, same idea

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=77536&toggle=fullsize&f=d60_042.jpg

Where have you been?

Where have you been?


Stuck in my igloo! :shocked

You confoozed me with all the spring lengths and other propeganda you were yacking about. You could have just said the perch had to go outboard a bit more. :santa

Thanks Keith, Sorry Chris I saw your post, but like I said befire Keith is the brains behind this project and i was hoping he was going to chime in here.
Thanks again Keith.

Jer.

Stuck in my igloo! :shocked

You confoozed me with all the spring lengths and other propeganda you were yacking about. You could have just said the perch had to go outboard a bit more. :santa

Are you sure you work in a 4x4 shop? Then again, I guess you're used to "dumbing it down" since you have to talk to bolt-on TJ owners all day

EDIT: plus that new prime minister of yours has enacted some strange laws

Are you sure you work in a 4x4 shop? Then again, I guess you're used to "dumbing it down" since you have to talk to bolt-on TJ owners all day

EDIT: plus that new prime minister of yours has enacted some strange laws
he's been busy decorating my toolbox :thumbup takes lots of concentration on his part :goodfinge

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=96906&toggle=fullsize&filename=Beerman_082.jpg

the 76.5 f150 D44 I used has the same tube thickness.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=99461&toggle=fullsize&filename=DCP_1937.JPG

Are you sure you work in a 4x4 shop?

Do you want your nerf bars in black or chrome? :D



plus that new prime minister of yours has enacted some strange laws.

Can't be stranger than our previous PM. :shocked

he's been busy decorating my toolbox :thumbup takes lots of concentration on his part :goodfinge

:beer :beer

Thanks Keith, Sorry Chris I saw your post, but like I said before Keith is the brains behind this project and i was hoping he was going to chime in here.
Thanks again Keith.
Jer.

No worries Jer. I'm sure your explanation would have confoozed me even more. :santa

LOL, For sure!
It would have been the thingie, on the thingie, that connects to the doohickie, and welds onto the hitchawatcha.

Oh and I will speak for Keith, he wants the chrome, it will match his custom made 22" chrome blades he is getting for his new wheels!
He's is going for that "Urban" look. :toothless :toothless :goodfinge

The latest South Park episode talked sh!t about the new Canadien PM.
Says he outlawed mounties to ride Horses, so they have to ride sheep now.
He also outlawed wine so the french speaking canadians cant drink, and then he outlawed sodomy so the white trash lumberjack canadians cant have butt sex.

What is up with that? I could live without horses, and wine, but no butt sex?
No more "2 in the pink, 1 in the stink action"?

That guy is absurd.

i get all my news from south park too.. :beer

i get all my news from south park too.. :beerI've asked many times.....now I know. :wacko