Got the first stage of my sliders completed. I've had a high clearance concept in mind for years and I'm quite pleased with how it's turning out, so far. Next step is to connect them to the frame and then add the tubular slider on the 30dgr angle. Enjoy!

Very, very nice!


Ding, ding, ding, I think we have a winner!

Nice job, keep us updated on the progress.

pretty interesting!!! how thick is that? look forward to seeing the rest of your work

Very nice....

pretty interesting!!! how thick is that? look forward to seeing the rest of your work

Everything is 3/16" except for the flat stock below the door, which is 1/4". The pic below shows the channel that gives it strength from the underside.

Did you happen to weigh it before you put it in?

Next step is to connect them to the frame and then add the tubular slider on the 30dgr angle. Enjoy!
are you going to bolt\weld to the body? i'm wondering whats going to keep it from pulling away from the body where the slider is going to be welded at.

Did you happen to weigh it before you put it in?

No, but I compared it to the 1/4 wall 2x3 that I had under there originally and it was definitely close to the same weight. I'll weigh it after powder coat/before final assembly.

are you going to bolt\weld to the body? i'm wondering whats going to keep it from pulling away from the body where the slider is going to be welded at.

It will be bolted at the frame and bolted at the slider high and low. I'll post pics tomorrow if I get that far.

It will be bolted at the frame and bolted at the slider high and low. I'll post pics tomorrow if I get that far.

have you thought of welding studs to the inside of it so that you wouldn't see the bolts. it'll look cleaner that way

Those are cool.How much time do you have in to them?

have you thought of welding studs to the inside of it so that you wouldn't see the bolts. it'll look cleaner that way
I have, but it would be impossible to assemble/disassemble and I favored the strength of a grade 8 bolt vs. a welded stud. I'll be using button head socket cap screws in the visible areas, but they'll be shrouded by the tube, so it should appear to be bolt free at a glance.

Those are cool.How much time do you have in to them?

16hrs of physical work to this point for one side. I estimate about that to do the passenger side complete, because I'll know exactly what I'm doing.

I have, but it would be impossible to assemble/disassemble and I favored the strength of a grade 8 bolt vs. a welded stud. I'll be using button head socket cap screws in the visible areas, but they'll be shrouded by the tube, so it should appear to be bolt free at a
glance.

yeah i know what you mean either way they'll look good

Yikes,that is alot of work:doh0715: .So no plans to mass produce them yet.

Yikes,that is alot of work:doh0715: .So no plans to mass produce them yet.

It's always alot of work in the prototype stage. Figuring out where the holes go and where the cuts need to be takes time, not to mention the clean-up after a few long plasma cuts. I am planning on production, but I have to say, it's going a bit slower than I would like. I'll want to make another set from a print after I complete mine and test fit them on another rig, then make any necessary adjustments and begin to look seriously at investing the capital to go full bore. Needless to say, I'm definitely planning on investing considerably less time per unit than 16rs.

Note: This design requires significant trimming, so it's not for those that are askeered to "modify" the body. :histerica

very interesting idea. kudos for creativity!

I look forward to the real world testing on rocks to see how well they hold up

That looks cool! Looking forward to more picks.

Looks real nice. Are you planning on putting some kind of foam tape or something between the fender and behind the door to avoid vibration?

That looks real clean! I need sliders too but I think I'm going for a bar just so the women in my life can still get in :thumbup

Managed to get one tie-in finished today, but that's about it. The two pics aren't great, so I'll get some better ones later.

I used 3/8 plate to bridge the spring hanger and fabbed a removeable plate over that. It's fastened with two 1/2" bolts, as well as the 5/8" shackle bolt. The 5/8" hole is slotted to facilitate removal. The link to the slider is 1 3/4 x 3/16wall DOM (Why DOM? Because I had it). What's difficult to see is the plate that sandwiches the sheetmetal. It will be linked across to the top of the channel and will be bolted to facilitate removal of the slider. I haven't fabbed that piece yet, but the two plates are in place. Got tired and didn't finish.

The bolts will all be replaced with black Armor Coat grade 8 button heads.

HELLA CLEAN! Good work there, I'm working on a set of shit pipe sliders and can gurantee they won't turn out half that nice.

HELLA CLEAN! Good work there, I'm working on a set of shit pipe sliders and can gurantee they won't turn out half that nice.

Thanks man. Hey, I'm looking for a 78 to prototype with. ;)

Those are sweet!! I need a set.

Sweet, better put me down for a set when you get started!!!

interesting.... i want to see how they hold up on the rocks

Wow, those are sweet lookin. If they work out, then id prob want a set too :toothless

Thanks man. Hey, I'm looking for a 78 to prototype with. ;)

If your near the SF bay area, you can feel free to make a prototype set with my rig. I probably won't be wheeling any time soon, since my engine has all but stopped running. (The damn thing pops, backfires, and runs like shit, and won't run at all below 1K right now.)

Sorry for the hijacking.

I love the look of those, you deserve a lot of credit for creativity and workmanship. Damn few guys out there who are really inovating like that. The only thing I would be concerned with would be those don't provide nearly the same door protection as a more conventional design, I know my doors would be totally screwed right now without the side protection. Still, nice work.:thumbup

Those are really nice. I have thought about something similar after seeing some on a jeep but never acted on it. I like the way you made it around the door. Very nice!

The only thing I would be concerned with would be those don't provide nearly the same door protection as a more conventional design, I know my doors would be totally screwed right now without the side protection. Still, nice work.:thumbup

Thanks for the compliment Dave. I haven't finished the slider yet. The next part is gonna knock yer socks off. :shocked

Hey, thanks again for the compliments fellas. I'm working on the next stage and will post pics within the next couple of weeks.

Do any of you have or will you get the weight of your sliders? I would like to compare and see how these stack up against them.

Id WAG mine to be abut 40 pounds a side with the tie ins etc.

. . .The only thing I would be concerned with would be those don't provide nearly the same door protection as a more conventional design, I know my doors would be totally screwed right now without the side protection. . . .

I think the door protection will be improved when he add the tube sliders to them like he mentioned.

Nice work and innovation.:thumbup

i used .120 2x4 and 2x2 and i'd WAG around 20 lbs a side, they are light and beat to ****.

i like the idea, i'd be skeptical of tying the body and the frame together like that tho. these bodies move around a lot, and so do the frames. still, looks really sweet. i have a suspicion of where you are going next, i can't wait to see what happens...

Andy has a valid arguement about tying the frame and cab together. What about doing something like PlugUgly did with is track bar mount and engine cross member that has rod ends? that way it could flex some but still be reinforce for side impacts.

Andy has a valid arguement about tying the frame and cab together. What about doing something like PlugUgly did with is track bar mount and engine cross member that has rod ends? that way it could flex some but still be reinforce for side impacts.

I agree. Mounting the body ridgid to the frame is not a good way to go if the cage is not plated at the body and tied in as well, but that will be the case on my rig. I'm still looking at alternative mounting methods and possibly offering options, depending on the buyer's needs.

most any frame tied cage will do the same thing as these sliders. the only really skepticism I have is landing hard on a rock with the slider. Thats a lot of weight to the body mounts.

that fire thingy ma bober... howd you mount it and whered you get everything from? i want one.

the only really skepticism I have is landing hard on a rock with the slider. Thats a lot of weight to the body mounts.

Are you speaking of yours or mine?

actually yours, but i just remembered you re tieing them into the hangar/frame, so ignore me, I'm an idiot

Here's a pic that should have some of you scratching your heads. I've almost finished machining the mating parts for the sliders. There is actually quite a few hours of time in the components since I'm continually changing things up as things progress.....and will be making additional changes after they're built, I'm sure. Anyway, enjoy.

:thumbup Nice bling appeal to.

Made some progress today. Will be working on them as long as it takes this week to finish up. I've got some bugs to work out with the joints, but nothing major. Spent some time aligning the door....was surprisingly easy.

Oh damn those are sweet

I fear that piece getting smashed and not being able to open the door.

I still amazed at the creativity tho, awesome work and very different.

Brian...its a bronco not a rocketship.....:goodfinge

I fear that piece getting smashed and not being able to open the door.

I still amazed at the creativity tho, awesome work and very different.

The piece on the door will not be fixed. It will have a pivot by this time tomorrow. The coupling is quite robust and the sensitive areas are protected. The biggest concern I have is the tube and/or shaft bending across the door, but it would take quite a big hit to do that. The machined parts are just 1018, but I'm planning on using 4140 for future units. Testing begins this weekend.

Brian...its a bronco not a rocketship.....:goodfinge

I stole the idea from that Star Wars Del Sol. :histerica :histerica

That is friggin' sweet! Absolutely beautiful design.

you might actually get enough body movement or bending to mess up the alignment too. rocks are brutal on everything. who knows maybe Im way off keep us posted on how it does tho

Nice creative work but I'd still break it...4140 or otherwise.

you might actually get enough body movement or bending to mess up the alignment too. rocks are brutal on everything. who knows maybe Im way off keep us posted on how it does tho

Keep in mind that these are tied to the frame and the sections of plate on either side of the door are braced from the backside. The body is the mayo in the sandwich.

Looks dang good. I love it.. Someone has alot of time invested in this, way more than i've got.

Only way you'll know how good it works is to do it and try them out. Keep us posted!

Nice creative work but I'd still break it...4140 or otherwise.

anything is better then the crap you call sliders:goodfinge

you definitely rethought the slider. i wanna see some real world testing first tho, personally i don't trust anything mounted to the body to hold up but judging from your bronco you don't drive by braille either...:thumbup

anything is better then the crap you call sliders:goodfinge
What? My $hits streamlined.That contour shaved 3/10 off my 1/4 mile time.:rofl:
http://images19.fotki.com/v358/photos/1/109911/4291528/DSCN2853-vi.jpg?1163961991



you don't drive by braille either...:thumbup

Hey!!!
What's wrong with using your B pillar as pivot point?

you definitely rethought the slider. i wanna see some real world testing first tho, personally i don't trust anything mounted to the body to hold up but judging from your bronco you don't drive by braille either...:thumbup

I'll leave the braille expertise to dogonmut. :histerica

I'll get some pics this evening that show the mounting. .........the body is just the mayo in the sandwich.

the body is just the mayo in the sandwich.

Ummmmm, bronco sandwich......

What? My $hits streamlined.That contour shaved 3/10 off my 1/4 mile time.:rofl:






I think they did more damage to the body then not having anything at all:goodfinge

very unique and amazingly detailed.

The driver's side is almost complete. Just need to adjust the coupler and add one more gusset behind the front fender. I hi-lifted the Bronco from the middle of the door link. The tube bowed approximately 3/8", but sprung back nicely. I've anticipated and built in some flex, but will have to real world test to see how it will hold up. The fixed ends are very strong. No concerns whatsoever with them, but should the door link fail, a 2" tube should take care of it.

Loookin goood!!!

Did you need a cheater on the hi-lift to get'er up that far???

Good hell those are tough. :beer If you wanna mkae another set let me know I would definatly buy them. You have some awesome work bud.:thumbup

Loookin goood!!!

Did you need a cheater on the hi-lift to get'er up that far???

No, I just weigh alot after Christmas.

Good hell those are tough. :beer If you wanna mkae another set let me know I would definatly buy them. You have some awesome work bud.:thumbup

Thanks for the compliment man. The intention all along has been to sell these and I will, but there are some revisions that need to be made to facilitate mounting and minimize body work. As it stands, I cut the first 1" off the bottom and a large notch in the front fender to fit it the way I like it. Unfortunately the prototyping phase is far from over. I may post a poll to see what the general consensus is on trimming, but I'm guessing that the majority just wants a "bolt-on", while the hardcore crowd is open to just about anything. What's your stance on that?

Id buy it w/o the tube bar on the side. I switch between my full & half doors too much. Fitment wouldnt matter for me since the fenders are hacked up anyway, altho for uncut trucks, i think id try to make them fit as closely as possible, and then just leave a note saying 'Due to differences in fender & rocker alignment, some slight modifications may be necessary to allow best fitment to vehicle'. or something like that. Anyways, excellent job :thumbup

Id buy it w/o the tube bar on the side. I switch between my full & half doors too much. Fitment wouldnt matter for me since the fenders are hacked up anyway, altho for uncut trucks, i think id try to make them fit as closely as possible, and then just leave a note saying 'Due to differences in fender & rocker alignment, some slight modifications may be necessary to allow best fitment to vehicle'. or something like that. Anyways, excellent job :thumbup

Cool rep! Thanks for the compliment. I intend on offering different configurations to fit varying needs and pricepoints.....even considering DIY kits with just the precut/prebent plates and such for the people like yourself that have the skills to build it.

Good idea on the disclaimer. It seems that's the way of the biz these days.

I would recommend bolt on mounts to the frame.

Since i first had dustin make me a set and weld them to the frame my R/A and axle setup has changed.

Who knows, it could very well change again in the future. Just something to thing about with TTB guys who get sliders then go D44 then go bigger.

Thats really my only input, i would have had more flexibility if i had those bolted on. Now they are welded i have to work around them.

what about a shock load beeler? It seems that falling a few feet onto something is what always causes the issues (wether bent, dented or broken) The nice easy lean ins and slides dont cause the problems.

Something to consider for sale, is a replacement bar when it gets bent or broken

did you boatside your rear fenders?

I would recommend bolt on mounts to the frame.

Since i first had dustin make me a set and weld them to the frame my R/A and axle setup has changed.

Who knows, it could very well change again in the future. Just something to thing about with TTB guys who get sliders then go D44 then go bigger.

Thats really my only input, i would have had more flexibility if i had those bolted on. Now they are welded i have to work around them.

These are bolted on utilizing factory holes in the front and a modified rear to the spring hanger. The rear will change, because it requires welding and gusseting on the hanger to be viable.

what about a shock load beeler? It seems that falling a few feet onto something is what always causes the issues (wether bent, dented or broken) The nice easy lean ins and slides dont cause the problems.

Something to consider for sale, is a replacement bar when it gets bent or broken

I've used a 15,000lb load as my baseline. Unfortunately, I'm not smart enough to calculate precise requirements for this sort of thing, but I do have resources available........just happen to be waiting for some numbers on that very subject. The tube diameter and wall thickness may change based on the results.

As far as replacement goes, that's what makes this set-up ideal. If you bend it, remove a couple of pins and replace it in just a couple of minutes; however, I think the customers and certainly myself would be displeased if they continually had to replace pieces. Testing will be critical before these "go public".

did you boatside your rear fenders?

You mean pre-runner style? No.

Couple of daytime pics for ya. The door link plate is left with a gap at the top intentionally because I want to maintain flexiblity in the mount to facilitate closing the door. There are lead-ins on the female side of the coupler that assist with this as well. Right now there is only a slight difference in how the door closes. I'll post an update after it gets dirty and abused.

so how about that slider deal that allows the tube to get longer and shorter when the door opens. what happens when a rock smashes it and distortes it to the point of haning up or even keeping the door from opening?

plug dosent mean prerunner "flared" fenders. he is refering to boatsiding......think about the hull of a boat.....thats boatsiding.

so how about that slider deal that allows the tube to get longer and shorter when the door opens. what happens when a rock smashes it and distortes it to the point of haning up or even keeping the door from opening?

That's been considered as well. The 1018 that I used for the prototype is soft and will most likely kick up big burrs when it drags on a rock. The clearances between the shaft and the tube is 1/16" included, but I don't think that will suffice.....so the plan is to use 41L40 and heat treat it to grade 8 specs. This will allow it to slide without burring up and if anyone can distort what would essentially be a 1 5/16 dia grade 8 bolt, I would be amazed.

Now, the tube end is up in the air. The wall thickness is .188 and that can be changed if necessary. I may end up making a hardened ring or sleeve for the end, but I want to real world test before I overkill everything.


plug dosent mean prerunner "flared" fenders. he is refering to boatsiding......think about the hull of a boat.....thats boatsiding.

I guess I'm not following the question here.

it looks like you plated the rear bottom portion of your fenders at an angle?

it looks like you plated the rear bottom portion of your fenders at an angle?

Oh! The rear quarter skids? Yeah, I did that quite a while back. It's worked out great, but I don't like the way it looks, so I'm going to chop 'em up and get creative with some tube.....in my free time.

You may also want to consider plugging the door tube to keep all of the nasties out. If I were in CA, I wouldn't even think of it, but being out here at my parents, I can imagine water, road salt, mud and what ever else you can think of.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3870&stc=1&d=1167419938

But then again, with the sliding function, you may just want to add some drain holes.

Ha! Look close. That's a machined piece in the end with a flat bottom bore. The sliding end has Delrin bushings with approximately .002" clearance. There's just enough gap to let the air out when opening the door.....and it slides nice and quiet too. :thumbup

Ooooo, Delrin. Now that's pimp.

Holy shit dude i am absolutely amazed:thumbup ...make me a set:cry ...thats basically exactly what i want...but with the inability to fab like that...im stuck with the standard style sliders ive made...:cry only thing is i havent brought myself to cut the body yet...

dc

if you remake them beefier...i will buy those

EDIT: your fab skills are amazing and i bow down to your sliders..:notworthy .only issue i see...is you still have a TTB:slap

WOW - I just found and read this whole thread. Great work, skill and creativity. I hope the end works out for you where you'll be able to sell these and get some money back for your time and efforts. Overall, damn those look sexy:beer

wow, those are uber cool. Great work man.

yea so i'll be your east coast sales rep...for a slight discount :)

i need a towel now tho

yea so i'll be your east coast sales rep...for a slight discount :)

i need a towel now tho

:histerica :beer


Thanks for all the good words fellas! The response has been awesome. I definitely need some time to test and refine as necessary and I'll post up as progress is made.

Dude. If I could afford it id be on those like stink on shit. But Im getting a simpler designed set for me from a member here. But yikes you are my hero. I wish I could fab like that.

Dude. If I could afford it id be on those like stink on shit. But Im getting a simpler designed set for me from a member here. But yikes you are my hero. I wish I could fab like that.

Wow! Thanks man! :beer


Here's a couple of the ugly pics....the gussets/supports behind the scenes. Keep in mind they're not complete. I didn't get pictures of everything.

Looks good. With that gusset you must have sliced the body?

Looks good. With that gusset you must have sliced the body?

Yeah, there is no room to work on the front fender with the pillar in the way. In hindsight, I could have spent more time cutting out the backing sheetmetal, but it's always so easy to just grab the plasma and have a ball. The gusset is located just in front of the pillar (disclaimer: there were no pillars harmed in the making of these sliders). The rear fender has plenty of clearance, so the gusset is a separate structure that bolts behind.

I'm extremely impressed with how they performed against the rock today...:thumbup it was topic of conversation on the way home.

Pics?!!

Send me a set ill test em on the east coast rocks for ya :toothless

Pics?!!

Send me a set ill test em on the east coast rocks for ya :toothless

Hopefully Cam will send some of his shots. I didn't get any of myself. :toothless

I'll post a link...here in just a bit.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472789/fullsize/img_0649.jpg

^^Compliments of Cam and TWW

photos start at page 2 (http://www.thewebwheeler.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1893&page=2) page 1 is trip planning and banter...

Brian-I don't think I can say it enough...those sliders rock.

those r so nice

That was a decent first test. No major slamming, but I used them to pivot around the boulder. There was zero deformation. In fact, they didn't seem to move at all.....but there's alot more testing to do. ;) The two pics show the spots that made contact. The front end was just a slide, while the rear handled the pivoting.

as I said before, freekin sweet

Those are NICE!! cant wait till there availible!!!

I like to give you my thumbs up vote I was telling my boss that I saw work done by a great fabicator, also with great insight.

:twotu: What a unique twist on sliders.

Ok,

Just stumbled onto this thread and I'm digg'n the sliders. I will be emulating your design for my 79. Have you prototyped a 78-79 yet?

If you have gone into production on the pieces yet I would be interested in buying some of your machined components as a kit.
If not I would even be interested in just some more detail on the sliding extension and joints etc as I can machine them myself if needed. Don't wory have no intent on trying to sell em or cut into you "bowl of rice".

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.....:thumbup

Ok first, I want to say that I really like your sliders yikes. I do have one question. I see how they can definetely prevent damage from side rock collisions..but arent the body panels still vunerable to rock damage from underneath???

Those are the nicest sliders I've seen. Well done :beer

Ok first, I want to say that I really like your sliders yikes. I do have one question. I see how they can definetely prevent damage from side rock collisions..but arent the body panels still vunerable to rock damage from underneath???

hes got these
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3884&stc=1&d=1167698335

tucked up underneath it appears...

It seems the last post from yikes was back in Jan. Any updates? I'm dying to see if these actually go into production. If so I'll be one of the first in line. Also just for your info yikes I have no problem doing any cutting on my Bronco. I know you were asking about that towards the beginning of this thread.

hes working on his Pre-running bronco now, so I dont think hes going to be making any of these till he's done with that

Ok,

Just stumbled onto this thread and I'm digg'n the sliders. I will be emulating your design for my 79. Have you prototyped a 78-79 yet?

If you have gone into production on the pieces yet I would be interested in buying some of your machined components as a kit.
If not I would even be interested in just some more detail on the sliding extension and joints etc as I can machine them myself if needed. Don't wory have no intent on trying to sell em or cut into you "bowl of rice".

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.....:thumbup

I haven't done anything for the 78-79 as yet. I would consider selling the machined parts. A kit would include the telescoping door bar with bushings and the joint; however, my concern with selling a kit is the level of precision required to fabricate/assemble one of these properly on the vehicle may be a problem for some. This concept, when built right is awesome, but if there is any axial misalignment between the ends of the joint, it could be a frustrating nightmare. The door may not close/open easily, the door bar may rattle, etc.

Ok first, I want to say that I really like your sliders yikes. I do have one question. I see how they can definetely prevent damage from side rock collisions..but arent the body panels still vunerable to rock damage from underneath???

Take a look at the 3rd picture down in the first post of this thread. The plate wraps underneath the body inboard over 5". It is reinforced 3/16" plate. I've slammed the rig on it hard without any issues to date. :thumbup

Those are the nicest sliders I've seen. Well done :beer

Thanks man. :beer

It seems the last post from yikes was back in Jan. Any updates? I'm dying to see if these actually go into production. If so I'll be one of the first in line. Also just for your info yikes I have no problem doing any cutting on my Bronco. I know you were asking about that towards the beginning of this thread.

Cool! These new posts have been exciting to see. My priorities seem to be ever changing. I've still got a business plan in the works and have a professional graphics designer working on a logo and website. The problem is I've been undecided on what direction to go with the biz. I plan to post an update within the next month or so.

I'll be at the Big Bear Bronco Bash in June and will be more than happy to "demo" the sliders. :thumbup :beer

I haven't done anything for the 78-79 as yet. I would consider selling the machined parts. A kit would include the telescoping door bar with bushings and the joint; however, my concern with selling a kit is the level of precision required to fabricate/assemble one of these properly on the vehicle may be a problem for some. This concept, when built right is awesome, but if there is any axial misalignment between the ends of the joint, it could be a frustrating nightmare. The door may not close/open easily, the door bar may rattle, etc.



I understand. I own a CNC machine shop/ manufacturing business. I'm pretty familiar with what is required. PM me if you are interested in price quotes for man. the machined parts.

Any updates on there yet?

OMG! Those are the coolest and most original sliders I have ever seen, absolutely amazing work! I am blown away at how cool those are. Your work is awesome, keep it up. Im suddenly motivated to go build some sliders...

OMG! Those are the coolest and most original sliders I have ever seen, absolutely amazing work! I am blown away at how cool those are. Your work is awesome, keep it up. Im suddenly motivated to go build some sliders...

Is this really the first time youv'e seen them? I liked the article in bronco driver magazine. Nice jumping pics :thumbup

Any updates on there yet?

I've got two projects ahead of this one, but it's still in the works. I chose to do some simpler things to get things rolling and go back to the sliders when I've got the time to work the bugs out for production. Nice looking rig, by the way.

OMG! Those are the coolest and most original sliders I have ever seen, absolutely amazing work! I am blown away at how cool those are. Your work is awesome, keep it up. Im suddenly motivated to go build some sliders...

Wow! Your comments are getting me excited too! Thanks man. :beer

i want your bumper, and sliders, so you should make a back bumper now that matches the front and can hold a 37" spare. if you do i'll be your nj/nyc poster bronco/sales rep/who the f knows

i want your bumper, and sliders, so you should make a back bumper now that matches the front and can hold a 37" spare. if you do i'll be your nj/nyc poster bronco/sales rep/who the f knows

The rear bumper is next up. :thumbup

i want some sliders yikes. just for reference. how much would a set like these "spaceship" series cost?

Very nice... When will they be for sale and how much?....

oh these are nice, this is my 1st time seeing them, hope they make it to production

those are f*n PIMP ill take texas rep and a towel

a buddy saw the sliders last night.. he said wow id easily drop a grand on those..

not trying to get you excited.. just wanted you to know they are even appealing to a silverado owner:D

For sale (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116613)

Brian,

Saw your write up in Bronco Driver a few months ago and had a lot of questions, the photos in the article did not do justice to your supurb work. I've got an EB but love FSBs too. I too have shifted plans from rock crawling to desert race pre-running with the option to dual sport. See you on the trails some day!

Gabe

Nice sliders....