DcSkater's SAS...FINALLY!!!!hollar

DcSkater602
12-08-2006, 02:00 AM
well my 33x22 garage that is seperate from the house doesn't have tall enough ceilings to accomidate the SAS... So i pitched the 12x20 party tent infront of it on the gravel and draped tarps over it for sides...(its 20* right now) I ran the heater some and it holds the heat well enough to cut the edge...it was about 50-55*.... sweet...:chili:

painted the leafs, caliper brackets, spring buckets, diff cover and shafts tonight...:rockon

Truck goes in there tommorow after work... rear suspension is first...im tossing the 4" leafs on there and the brake lines... sky shackle flip brackets haven't been ordered yet so ill have to get them on monday... that will at least get the rear a little more level when i do the front...:rockon :rockon

Front suspension should be all torn out this weekend...going in is a 78 d44, 4.10 powertrax lunchbox locker, superflex 6", JBG towers, Cage hoops, 34" long 14" travel dual shocks, Allstar 36" brake lines(the ones crazed got from bluetorch), chebby 1 ton steering with heim track bar...either extending the radius arms or hopefully cage arms when i talk to pop tommorow about christmas or a loan:duh ...but anyway cool shit... :chili:

Also going on... SAS is getting done, welding the panel for the floor where i cut the hole to do the fuel pump, bedlining the whole truck(inside), new starter and IAC motor, building my sliders(dustin copies...sorry):rockon and custom anti wrap bars for the rear...

Truck is bone stock right now as far as suspension...i have enough problems with the TTB as far as alignment and wheel bearings... i figured if im gonna lift it and start wheeling it more...why waste the money... go big or go home...so i skippied the TTB lift which 99% of you SASers went through and came straight to this...

SORRY NO PICS YET...take them in the morning...

Oh and one more thing...upfront i would like to say thank you, to all of the members who participate in this forum... Ive learned alot from FSB over the last 2 years and have had alot of help down the road...its nice to know i can give advise occasionally on here... because of this website i went from being 16 and changing the tranny and tcase fluid and not remembering fill the tcase and blowing that up...:twak to only 19 and ive done a 351w swap which i built the entire motor, just finished a MAF conversion to my 91 with a harness i built completely myself to this SAS...3 BIG tasks that not many people do and its all thanks to this... thanx FSB and everyone in it...ill eb a Fullsize member next year...:thumbup

pics to come its 2 am i need to sleep!

dc

ok ok...heres a teaser...when i brought it home...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/315039/fullsize/brakes-113005-001.jpg

Justshootme84
12-09-2006, 12:37 AM
Good luck with the SAS. You'll soon be bashing the TTB folks like the rest of us (J/K)!!! Looking forward to many pics and updates, JSM84:thumbup

Shadofax
12-09-2006, 02:10 PM
Someone will mention so why not me...yes you are skipping the TTb lift, but the "go big or go home", well the 60 folks might have something to say about that since you are still using a D44 front. yes, I am too, but am not the one that said I was going big. If you're going to run 37's or less you'll be fine with the 44 front unless you really start hitting some real tough trails.

Anyway, sounds good. One suggestion....ask bluetorch for a brake line about 30". 36 is too long.

DcSkater602
12-09-2006, 03:09 PM
already got the brake lines....bluetorch doesnt make them or distribute them anymore... the lines are made by allstar performance...i got the lines and adapters from them....

im going to take pics right now...i didnt mean "go big" like that... yes 1 ton axels may be in the future...but what i meant was do it right the first time...8 lug 1 tons would be cool...but not really what i need... moderate wheeling is pushing it...im not looking for body damage....

brb ill take pics

dc

DcSkater602
12-09-2006, 03:27 PM
PICS!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/463997/fullsize/sas-001.jpg
leafs out...rails painted...trying to decide if i want the rear swaybar or not....
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/463999/fullsize/sas-002.jpg
other side
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464000/fullsize/sas-003.jpg
Old and new...stock springs and 4" superlifts
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464003/fullsize/sas-004.jpg

new leafs are being installed...gonna have to tear it apart again for the shackle flip but oh well...also gotta do the rear brake line now..

dc

jrdbronco
12-09-2006, 03:44 PM
keep the long brake line. i'd rather have too much than not enough. so far it looks good. also, ditch the rear sway bar. its about as worthless as the front one

Shadofax
12-09-2006, 03:55 PM
keep the long brake line. i'd rather have too much than not enough. so far it looks good. also, ditch the rear sway bar. its about as worthless as the front one

Trust me on this. the stock line on my '95 was about 24" and I ran that with my roughly 5" rancho TTB suspension. So when I did the SAS I went with a 31" line that was meant for Chevy K20 trucks with 8-10" of lift. The line is a tad long for my Cage arm, superflex coil, 14" shock setup with regard to downtravel. about 29-30" is perfect. Anything more just means more line to be hanging and getting snagged. But if it's bought it's bought.

jrdbronco
12-09-2006, 03:58 PM
understood shadofax, but like you said, if its bought its bought. thats why we have zipties :toothless i ran my stock lines with a 6" superlift all the way up to SAS time, never gave me trouble, somewhat similar to your gig

stangmata
12-09-2006, 05:31 PM
Very cool. I'll be following and drooling as I have in all the other SAS threads.

DcSkater602
12-09-2006, 06:35 PM
got the leafs in...ill take some pics... still have to order the shackle flip so ill have to pull them back out...ubolts are too long... have to get other ones...

ill take pics here in a little bit...im kinda stopped now that the ubolts wont work...im about to slap a 2x4 in there lol...:toothless

had to cut the exhaust...i hated it anyways...gonna do duals angled outr the rear corners...
rear swaybar is going....i dont think the parking brake cables are long enough either...im gonna dissasemble some things from the axel...scrape it down and give it a coat or two of paint so its shiny too... waiting on my line wrenches to show up so i can do the rear brakeline

new shackles??? mine arent rusted but i have no idea what is so special about the velvets....

dc

DcSkater602
12-10-2006, 05:37 PM
Leafs are in...truck is back on tires... had to pick up a 3" block because the ubolts were too long... so when i do the shackle flip the block will come out...
ditched the rear swaybar...painted the axel... still gotta do the extended brake line...waiting on my line wrenches... also need to torque leaf bolts
pics!!! i cant wait to get rid of the 32's...:rockon
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464340/fullsize/sas--001.jpg
on 32's...notice the 3" block:wacko
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464346/fullsize/sas--007.jpg
to rear wheel well center...true 7" from before
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464348/fullsize/sas--009.jpg
little blurry...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464345/fullsize/sas--006.jpg
:chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili:
gonna get the front tires off and jacked up tonight...maybe start tearing it apart!!

dc

Justshootme84
12-11-2006, 03:12 PM
Looks fine so far, but the rear axle is easy to lift. Hope the front TTB won't be too hard to remove, and don't forget the "special" pic when you get it out, JSM84

DcSkater602
12-11-2006, 05:39 PM
can't start the front yet...need sturdier jackstands... looking good so far..
heres ur pics
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464343/fullsize/sas--004.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/464344/fullsize/sas--005.jpg

dc

Justshootme84
12-11-2006, 06:09 PM
I looked everywhere for a good set of jackstands. Finally found some 6-ton models at TSC Hardware for like $15/ea. I still needed to place some 4x4 blocks under them to support my Bronco when doing my SAS, and without the wheels mounted. Just a bit of advice when lifting your rig 8-10", you will need tall stands!!! JSM84

DcSkater602
12-11-2006, 07:00 PM
yea ive got 6 tons...there 20" tall all the way up... y buddy has some that are 24...im gonna use 10x10 railroad ties to make them tall enough...unless i can get my buddies tractor stand which go up to 38"
frame rails are painted up to the stock radius arm brackets... gonna do the inside of them after some dinner... welder will eb here tonight...gonna finish the new trans crossmember

dc

ok so definatley going with cage arms! gonna call a local distributor and see if they can beat the $698 free shipping price i found online...
the 8 inch lift wouldnt be so bad if the damn coils didnt flex so muhc...28" with no weight is long as hell...i thinka stiffer 8" coil would be alot shorter...oh well... gonna eb sweet when its done..

dc

plug ugly
12-11-2006, 09:07 PM
Trust me on this. the stock line on my '95 was about 24" and I ran that with my roughly 5" rancho TTB suspension. So when I did the SAS I went with a 31" line that was meant for Chevy K20 trucks with 8-10" of lift. The line is a tad long for my Cage arm, superflex coil, 14" shock setup with regard to downtravel. about 29-30" is perfect. Anything more just means more line to be hanging and getting snagged. But if it's bought it's bought.


or, you could convert to a single center drop and be done with it.

plug ugly
12-11-2006, 09:08 PM
what vendor has the 698 shippped?

DcSkater602
12-12-2006, 12:26 AM
http://www.knowwhere2jeep.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=1080&products_id=8659
there in maryland...

dc

DcSkater602
12-13-2006, 12:45 AM
front suspension is up on jackstands... frame rails are @ 29.5 inches...think thats high enough or go up a little more???
only thing holding ttb in now are radius arms, springs and pivot bolts...
picking up some 2x4 box tube tommorow...gonna fab the trans crossmember and the trac bar mount...
hey bossind what did you use for the vertical mounts on ur tranny xmember... the part that mounts to the frame???
ive got 8' of 1/4" 3x3 angle iron i got free from work and some 2x6
welding away tommorow

pics tommorow

dc

DcSkater602
12-18-2006, 12:37 PM
So heres an update!:madder

front suspension is out tranny crossmemebr almost done...truck is bedlined...blah blah blah...ill take pics tonight

here is how the weekend went... Friday night my 78 D44 housing was stolen...
and i spent all of last night in the hospital with welder's flash...

shitty F-in weekend..better info and pics to come

dc

zainyD
12-18-2006, 12:57 PM
What the crap dude!!?!?!?!?!!?!?

Redwagon
12-18-2006, 01:18 PM
are those aluminum (sp?) blocks in back?...

DcSkater602
12-18-2006, 01:36 PM
yes there temporary

so yea shitty weekend...

dc

DcSkater602
12-18-2006, 06:46 PM
im on my way to get my second (sigh) d44 axle... be back in an hour or two...ill take some pics tonight i havent caught up with them lately...

second axle is spindles in and radius arms and coils... no shaft:/ was hoping to grab a spare set... anyways im getting it for 50 bux so w/e...

hopefully it doesnt need an extreme amoun t of work to get it to the condition mine was in...

dc

zainyD
12-18-2006, 08:28 PM
So what's the story? Any idea who stole it?

stangmata
12-18-2006, 08:50 PM
That blows. ****in theives.

DcSkater602
12-18-2006, 11:27 PM
axle story...luckily it was just the housing w/ the knuckles(which were already reamed and had new BJ's in them but w/e)... friday night went down to my buddies shop and set it outside bc he was closing up... set it just outside the bay doors... we live in the countery not NYC... 400+ft from the road and not visible from the road... went home, ate dinner, and got in the powerstroke and went down to pick it up...ummm WTF ITS GONE:shocked ...as it seems the scrap guy showed up and assumed it was scrap...i say assumed nicely... it was 40 ft away from the scrap container where the scrap guys are told they can find are scrap...that fenced in area is the ONLY place they can get scrap from our shop... my freshly sandblasted, painted black with silver painted knuckles and blue ball joints was 40 ft away...they didnt assume shit... they thought theres a nice $60 hunk of metal and took it... problem is there is 5 or 6 random guys who come around and grab scrap...no one really knows who they are they are just random redneck ass white trash idiots...so yea in a 2 hr time frame my axle walked... BTW i have pulled over 4 guys on the road ive seen hauling scrap and knocked on 2 guys front doors... havent found the culprite yet...also called all the nearby yards... when i find them = :box0715: the thing that pisses me off the most is its a privelage for them to have the scrap metal and catalytic converters and what not we wanna get rid of...we could easily put them in the dumpster but bc we wanna let them make money we seperate it for them... it shouldnt be..."oh no i left my axle out the scrap monster might come steal it"....this is BS:banghead

Eyeball Story: Sunday i went to work(construction) and did a favor for the company owner and brought my torch out to cut through a 4inch diameter 1/4 wall pipe underground(drain pipe)... i was wearing goggles for most of it and had sunglasses on for the rest...i had no white flare in front of me or anything when i was done... the problem was the HOT gasses coming up out of the hole directly into my face burnt the cornea's in my eyes... FACT ABOUT WELDER'S FLASH: Although everything seems fine... symptoms do not present themselves for at least 12 hours... so i cut the pipe at 10 am... at 3am that night i woke up with almost no vision and it felt like someone poured sand in my eyes and rubbed it around... i drove myself to the hospital... its kinda like a VERY foggy night for someone who needs glasses and isnt wearing them... i dont recommend any of this to any of you...im sure those of you with time under your belt w/ a welder have been to the hospital at something like 2am for this...very shitty...:cry

Progress:so heres what did get done this weekend... finally got a piece of floor froma BKO and just laid it in and welded it in place over the hole in my floor(cut the floor for a fuel pump emergency swap)... went to tractor supply and got all of my hardware along w/ some flush mount anchors that i welded to the corners of the floor and the sides of the wheel wells so i can anchor stuff down...had to cut all of the bolts to the rear seat brackets because my 1000 ft/lb impact gun wouldnt move them and broke most of them off anyway... welded the 2 back to the floor and have to drill out the bolts for the latch brackets and get some hardware for it...Herculined the whole interior after extensive work stripping the nasty cardboard tar like stuff in the front seats... dropped the TTB the other night... bought a power steering cooler...
Cage arms will eb here wed... 4* bsuhings wednesday, shock hoops monday, shackle flip bracket, high mis-alignment spacers and jam nuts for steering monday also... :chili:
Picked up my new new 78 d44 housing to night... nothing past the knucles on it.. all i needed was the knucles and housing anyways but tommorow will be spent sandblasting and painting ALL over again...:duh

anyways pics speak 1000 words even though im sure i typed more than that...
the welder i borrowed
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466868/fullsize/sas-1-007.jpg
interior after bedlining w/ patch panel and new tie downs
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466869/fullsize/sas-1-001.jpg
another...the bedliner is lightly done on the inner fender there bc im mounting a sub there
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466870/fullsize/sas-1-002.jpg
tie downs
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466871/fullsize/sas-1-003.jpg
the front
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466885/fullsize/sas-1-013.jpg
TTB salute... notice the wet marks... i may be the first to take a piss on it :toothless
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466872/fullsize/sas-1-004.jpg
front gone
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466874/fullsize/sas-1-006.jpg
tie rod... 1.25" DOM next to my 2x4 .25 wall box tube for the tranny xmember and trac bar bracket...i ahve too much lol...gotta make the draglink and trac bar too....track bar is 3/4 teflon chromoly heims and steering is all chebby 1 ton TRES
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466879/fullsize/sas-1-009.jpg
the new new d44..i ahev work to do... its got some rediculous bolt on skid truss thing on there...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466882/fullsize/sas-1-010.jpg
PS cooler from pep boys... 5" x 12"
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466883/fullsize/sas-1-011.jpg
brakelines from allstar performance(what bluetorch used to stock...) i think they were like 15 bux a side!!! awesome price compared to the 80 bux they want for extended TTB line... there like 35" long w/ 90* bends and fittings for the tbird calipers... also in there is the 80-96 extended rear brake line which has a metal shaving in the block i noticed somehow...JBG sent me a new one no questions asked...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466884/fullsize/sas-1-012.jpg

thats its for now...im gonan try to get the axle clean up and painted tommorow so the gears can go in wednesday... shooting to ahve it on tires by saturday night...

oh yea and im building my sliders... bought a tubing bender...blah blah...enjoy

dc

Redwagon
12-18-2006, 11:35 PM
looks like its coming all together...sorry to hear about the missing axle, we have scrap metal guys at my work daily and you never no what they are going to take. How do you like that welder?

1clean5.8
12-18-2006, 11:43 PM
Ive had welders flash before you wake up blind it sucks

90Beater
12-19-2006, 01:35 AM
Sucks you got the first one stolen. Glad you found a repacement pretty quick.

Keep it going. :thumbup

DcSkater602
12-19-2006, 04:01 PM
yea coming along good...just picked up some blasting compound gonna get the axle torn apart and cleaned up tonight...

wedler is nice...its actually a 110v welder too so no special hookups required...its a buddy of mines... does 1/4inch decently so it does what i need

dc

DcSkater602
12-20-2006, 01:14 AM
axle is blasted down and primed... going to the shop tommorow so i can throw some gears and the lcoker in it... hopefully get it done tommorow...if not thursday... cage arms should be here tommorow too...
pics later...
i will say the blasting wasnt as in depth as before...the second time around your pretty much pissed about doing it again...granted its stripped and reallyclean... but i did a better job last time...

anyways it looks good...im going to bed

dc

DcSkater602
12-23-2006, 04:44 AM
:thumbup update!: its 4:30 AM and im just coming back up from the shop... new axel is home with 4.10 gears and powertrax lunchbox locker inside...
All old brackets are off.. front crossmember is cut...new tranny xmember is done.. frame rails are clean and painted(all the way from front horns to rear shackles:chili: inside and out) cage arm brackets are mounted... cleaned and painted the knuckles, spindles and brake caliper brackets... power steering cooler is finished... yada yada yada

tommorow morning: gotta pull the diff cover and swap it with the other one which needs stripped and painted... install the ball joints...assemble the knuckles,caliper brackets and spindles... got pull the hub and rotor off the ttb and clean and paint them... gotta run the dial on the rotor to see if its bad enough i can go and get some 78 rotor(which thanks to bossind are much thicker...)

tommorow night: mount the coil buckets... spot the cage brackets and mount and hang the axle... to mis-alignment spacers for the 3/4 heims for the track bar yet so i may have to hold off on them unless someone knows how wide they are typically...(so i dont make the mount to narrow inside...)anyone know...i figured .5inch on each side of the heim but i didnt wanna guess...gonna at least get weight on the coils to see how they react and make the drag link...

pics in the morning im going to bed its now 4:40 and my alarm will be set for 730....:banghead

its so close!:chili:

BTW installing the cage brackets and the stock C w/ new poly bushings was the biggest PIA/ hardest thing i have done so far... that is a bit$h trying to squeeze them together to get a bolt started w/ the very hard poly bushing in there..:banghead :banghead :banghead

oh and on top of everything i am just now 2 weeks in to the project and i have only had help one F-in night...and that was for an hour putting the leafs in...im pretty pissed... most of my friends dont know jack about cars and dont even know how to hold a can of paint and the one guy who knows what to do and ive put more than 50 hours under his truck aint here... A-hole:shrug

w/e im excited:chili:

dc

Joes93Bronco
12-23-2006, 10:13 AM
Pics man pics!! :popc1:

DcSkater602
12-23-2006, 01:04 PM
quick question...on the d-side...there are two brake lines... im assuming ones a return... whats everyone doing with this??? pull the line block off the coil bucket or what???

pics soon

dc

edit...super motors is loading pics now.... anyone know what im talking about as far as D-side brake lines???

dc

DcSkater602
12-23-2006, 02:42 PM
PICS!
oh and dont whine about my mess...
new PS cooler hidden down low there...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467828/fullsize/sas-1-014.jpg
new cage brackets installed...ground them down... 4* poly bushings....
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467829/fullsize/sas-1-015.jpg
another shot
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467830/fullsize/sas-1-016.jpg
knuckles painted, new Ball joints (all spicer) spindles and caliper brackets
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467832/fullsize/sas-1-017.jpg
Frame painted All the way back
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467833/fullsize/sas-1-018.jpg
Tranny xmember almost done... hanging by a bolt on either side...2x4 box and 3x4 .25" angle
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467834/fullsize/sas-1-019.jpg
ooooooooohhhhhh...:rockon
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467837/fullsize/sas-1-020.jpg

pics later tonight...i hope to have it on tires tonight:chili: :chili: :chili:

dc

ToddACimer
12-23-2006, 02:43 PM
Are you going to add a skidplate to that crossmember?

DcSkater602
12-23-2006, 07:32 PM
i may figure something out for the tranny pan later...

DcSkater602
12-24-2006, 03:31 AM
axle is under the truck! cage brackets are welded and bolted to the frame.... (i will be making a piece to box the frame in the future)... cage arms are hung...superflex coils installed..axle is hanging under the truck... used the jack to put some weight on the coils...just enough to loosen up the jackstands, so far no coil bow horizontally...have to adjust the cage brackets a little the coils are bowing forward... anyway im siked to be able to see an axle and suspension back under the truck..:chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili: :chili:

tommorow im installing the brake caliper brackets, brakes spindles and yada yada yada...gonna ratchet strap the axle to center, make the draglink and start the trac bar(still waiting on mis-alignment spacers)... gotta grind some welds around the cage brackets and lay down some fresh paint...

Pics soon i promise...

2 questions:
First: Driver's side brake lines...there are two...one that goes up to the MC and the other that comes through the frame rail for the brakes... wtf do i do w/ the other line???
Second: Anyone have a pic of the caliper brackets... they have an offset to them and im not sure which way they go...they either offset in towards the center of the axle or away... i need to know so i dont have to take it apart again when the caliper doesnt fit...

thanx

dc

Redwagon
12-24-2006, 12:06 PM
not sure on the brake lines...but the brackets should be stamped L or R.

DcSkater602
12-25-2006, 09:44 AM
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!:
finally took some pics... its xmas so i doubt ill e working on it much today...still gotta adjust the cage arms...i put pressure on the springs and i have no side bow...just towards the front...the lower retainers point down i think i just need to shim under the front of them 1/4inch and it will sit right... gotta make the drag link and trac bar still...plenty to do still but its slowly coming together... put the spindles on last night..

pics:
Front suspension...cage arms, superflex 6"...the buckets are an inch shorter too... (dont know why i cut them:shrug)Tie rod is on(chebby TRE 1.25 .120 DOM)
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468324/fullsize/sas1225-001.jpg
Side view...see the angle on the lower buckets...those are 4* arm bushings
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468325/fullsize/sas1225-002.jpg
Heres the D-side brake line issue...one line coming through the frame rail and one from the MC... what do i do???
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468326/fullsize/sas1225-003.jpg
another view showing the purdy frame rails... cage arms are half welded(gotta weld the bottom) and bolted from the side... i need to install the spacers and add a bolt through the bottom...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468327/fullsize/sas1225-004.jpg
Spindles on...no spindle studs there way over priced...just some 7/16 bolts... the lower one was a pain because i forgot to install it before i did the lower BJ:banghead ...just put the bolt in from the outside and cut the bolt to length and grinded the nut a little shorter...plenty of clearance
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468328/fullsize/sas1225-005.jpg
Pass side
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/468329/fullsize/sas1225-006.jpg

enjoy!

MERRY XMAS EVERYONE!:chili:

dc

bigbroncojeff
12-25-2006, 11:36 AM
you are movin along nicely

DcSkater602
12-25-2006, 12:04 PM
you are movin along nicely

yea 2 weeks aint bad when ur axle gets stolen and your working alone...thanks though...it has been alot of hours...:whiteflag
yea just gotta figure out what to do witht the lower coil retainers and figure out my D-side brake lines... :popc1:

dc

DcSkater602
12-29-2006, 05:13 PM
So i have a stupid question... whats the best way to get going on the trac bar fab and draglink...
- ratchet strap the axle centered under the truck and put weight on the axle then do it...
- put weight on the axle and then just bring the axle up to that height while you center and fab the trac bar and steering???
not really sure howe everyone went at that...i can figure it out...just didnt know if anyone had any tips... and how did everyone mock up there trac bar bracket to know ho much drop??? mines 6" coils w/ 1" bucket drop and NO drop pitman right now...ill take pics of the draglinki angle and decide if i need a drop one...i dont think Shadofax has one... anyways
im going home on sunday so sunday night im gonna try to get the trac bar mount fabbed up and get a trac bar and draglink made... got my mis-alignment spacers for the heims on the trac bar...still gotta pick up some 3/4 bolts for the trac-bar...

la la la hopefully by monday night it can sit solely on the axle... still gotta fix the coil bow...

dc

one more thing... what is the thread size on the existing brake line at the frame rail ion the BKO??? i threaded the allstar lines on it and they seemed like the right thread but i didnt think the BKO had -3AN threads...????

Shadofax
01-01-2007, 04:55 PM
In your post #41, did you mean 1.25 x .25 DOM? .120 would be too thin.

IIRC I just ran a bunch of figures in terms how much DOM I would need for the draglink and how much thread each of the TRE's had....PartsMike's site is very helpful here since what I actually had to do was figure all this out before ordering from them (they cut the DOM and tapped it left/right). You have a little leeway here.

for the trackbar, again I just crunched the numbers and then had'er cut. I had gotten my stock pitman arm from Lightin' and so again I just guesstimated where that was going to put the upper connection so I could have an idea what the angle was going to be and when I made the upper track bar mount I did not drill the hole until I already had it mounted and the steering was already on. so then the upper hole was drilled to match the angularity of the draglink with weight on the springs. It seems to me it was about this time when Crazed, myself, TNT Bronco, and the rest of the crew were kinda holding the side of the truck while Crazed was using a plumb from the frame down to the axle, doing this on both sides, and then we would screw the trackbar in/out to get the axle aligned under the truck.

90Beater
01-02-2007, 01:56 AM
It's coming along nicely. Keep it up. :thumbup

DcSkater602
01-02-2007, 12:27 PM
gotcha thanks...anyways..trac-bar is made draglink is on..., trac bar mount is bolted up... im going down to the shop now to finish... truck will be drivable today....
however once i get the tracbar on and adjusted im putting it back on the jackstands and tearing it all apart... gotta put the button head bolts in the coil buckets and paint some things... make shims for the lower retainers and adjust the cage arms a tad more...

dc

CJW
01-02-2007, 03:06 PM
Looking awesome. I like your purty frame rails.:toothless







:thumbup

Cameron

Andy351
01-02-2007, 07:04 PM
if that drag link is .120 it will pretzel very quickly and you will probably die. mine is more than .25 and i have still bent it.

CJW
01-02-2007, 07:46 PM
I read that it was made out of .120 and thought that it was pretty thin but I don't know much about that kind of stuff, so I didn't say anything.

How thick are the stock ones?

Andy351
01-02-2007, 08:03 PM
stock tie rods are solid stock

ToddACimer
01-02-2007, 08:07 PM
stock tie rods are solid stock

Hollow tube is stronger than solid. I'd recommend 1/4" wall. I know mines 1.5" OD and 1"ID with weld in bungs for my heims

MudOnTheTireS10
01-02-2007, 09:50 PM
X2. I have 1.5"x.25" wall DOM with 1 ton TREs. I wouldn't go with anything smaller if it were up to me.

DcSkater602
01-03-2007, 01:07 AM
its .120...mostly steet truck...think its a big issue for road... guess ill be upgrading soon.../????:cry

Dc

DcSkater602
01-03-2007, 01:29 AM
New Pics!!!:chili:
Front suspension is done... NAPA man has new 78 rotors, 10 wheel studs, and soem shiny NEW Warn premium lockouts coming tommorow AM... never had tires on but had axle on jackstand supporting truck... still waiting on the stupid shock hoops...
pics:
sweetest thing i have purchased yet...i always thought these were stupid...until i bought a pair...best thing i own made by craftsman
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470864/fullsize/sas10307-001.jpg
Trac Bar bracket hanging waiting for paint
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470865/fullsize/sas10307-002.jpg
tranny xmember supporting tranny weight... needs painted also
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470871/fullsize/sas10307-003.jpg
trac bar 3/4 heims...same length as draglink...also bracket done...parralel and same angle
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470872/fullsize/sas10307-004.jpg
suspension holding its own weight...just after i removed the trac bar bracket and trac bar for paint
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470873/fullsize/sas10307-006.jpg
d side coil...no bow issues
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470879/fullsize/sas10307-007.jpg
pass side coil...little bow...will be shimed
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470881/fullsize/sas10307-008.jpg
weight on axle...spindles are high enough to put a 34" tire on... 9.5" lift... i wanted 7:shocked
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470883/fullsize/sas10307-009.jpg
and now im taking it all back apart...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470884/fullsize/sas10307-011.jpg
picked up some button head bolts for the coil buckets...thanks shadofax
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470890/fullsize/sas10307-013.jpg
no idea how the shop got this messy
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470891/fullsize/sas10307-014.jpg
brake line issue...top line goes to MC...bottom goes to pass side caliper... i have a 3 way T on the way to fix this issue
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470892/fullsize/sas10307-015.jpg
craftsman flouresent work lamp... w/ a 110 plug in it... sweet deal..9 bux ea...i bought 3
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470893/fullsize/sas10307-016.jpg
putting the interior back together./..anyone know what this connector in the d-side seatbelt is for...bc i know my truck doesnt have a fasten seatbelt light..???
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470894/fullsize/sas10307-017.jpg
interior is coming back together... bed liner staying in the back...carpet for front..
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/470895/fullsize/sas10307-019.jpg

truck is torn down to just axle now...i made some plumb bobs and got the cage arms adjusted...
im gonna go cry about my .120 tubing:cry

other than that it looks badass and has forced me to change thinking from 35's to 37's...so toyo open country M/T 37/14.50/15's are soon to be ordered...

dc

MudOnTheTireS10
01-03-2007, 02:41 AM
The truck will sit down more than you think, especially once the coils settle. So I wouldn't go up too much in tire size.

And as far as the steering...keep a 60" hi lift jack with you when you go offroading, and don't fix it til its broke ;)

Shadofax
01-03-2007, 09:50 AM
The truck will sit down more than you think, especially once the coils settle. So I wouldn't go up too much in tire size.

And as far as the steering...keep a 60" hi lift jack with you when you go offroading, and don't fix it til its broke ;)

I disagree. We're talking about steering here. Could be very dangerous break off road. And unless this truck is going to be purely trailered to a trail, that means it needs to drive on the road, and I've never seen or heard of anything used that is less than .188 wall (partsmike uses this) or greater. Having this give out at 55 mph would not be something I would ever want to have to deal with. If the trackbar is also .120 that needs to go to, with it all back apart, now is the time.

How did you end up with this stuff?

DcSkater602
01-03-2007, 04:32 PM
:shrug

ill get ahold of some 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM...damn got buy new threaded inserts again:banghead

shock hoops came in...

dc

MudOnTheTireS10
01-03-2007, 10:01 PM
I disagree. We're talking about steering here. Could be very dangerous break off road. And unless this truck is going to be purely trailered to a trail, that means it needs to drive on the road, and I've never seen or heard of anything used that is less than .188 wall (partsmike uses this) or greater. Having this give out at 55 mph would not be something I would ever want to have to deal with. If the trackbar is also .120 that needs to go to, with it all back apart, now is the time.

How did you end up with this stuff?

I don't mean to run the Hi lift on the road. :twak
It's gotten some people off the trail in the rare occasion that a tie road and/or knuckle with hi steer breaks.
I personally have .25" wall on my DOM, but I'm merely suggesting that he doesn't have to go and redo all the steering links because they are .05" thinner wall or something similar.

ToddACimer
01-03-2007, 10:08 PM
.120 isnt just .05" thinner it's half as thick. I wouldnt trust it at all

MudOnTheTireS10
01-03-2007, 10:34 PM
.120 isnt just .05" thinner it's half as thick. I wouldnt trust it at all

I never referred to .120, I was speaking in general. But thats beside the point. A ton of people wheel their rigs with stock steering until something gets tore up. No need to change it until its broke unless you intend to wheel the piss out of it, or you have the extra change in your pocket.

ToddACimer
01-03-2007, 10:41 PM
I never referred to .120, I was speaking in general. But thats beside the point. A ton of people wheel their rigs with stock steering until something gets tore up. No need to change it until its broke unless you intend to wheel the piss out of it, or you have the extra change in your pocket.

Have you ever had a track bar break? You'd make sure it never happened again let me tell you from experience. I can only imagine a tie rod wouldnt be that much better

MudOnTheTireS10
01-03-2007, 11:30 PM
I didn't know we were talking about trac bars, sorry.
The tie rod break problem is why I mentioned the hi lift.

Andy351
01-04-2007, 01:08 AM
i think you guys are missing the point. its not like its going to shatter into a million tiny pieces when he turns his truck on. it will just bend really really easy, especially if he does any wheeling with sharp impacts or places a tire in a bind.

DcSkater602
01-04-2007, 01:27 AM
its 1/8 wall...not .120...which is damn close anyways...
im ordering 1.5" 1/4 wall DOM for trac bar and steering... trac bar is too long by a half an inch anyways... no reason to try and cut the weld in bungs out and use a new piece of 1.25"... gonna order the 1.5" stuff and the weld in bungs for stering and the heims...
trac bar is slightly long...pushing the passenger side out,...passenger side coil is barely bowed out and d-side is bowing in... no front to back bow anymore... w/ the trac bar a little shorter there will be no coil bow...im excited about not making shims...:chili:

truck is back on the new suspension... assembled the rotors and hubs tonight...cleaned the hubs and painted... new wheel studs x10... gotta pack the bearings and install them...still waiting on some unanticipated brake line plumbing... calipers are ready to install...just need those damn line fittings:banghead

anyways tommorow night ill have pics of it on tires... hoepfully i can get the last two holes on the tranny xmember drilled and paint that and be done with it and install the cage shock hoops...BTW any recommendations on what to use to cut the inner wheel wells????

almost done...oh yea then i gotta tear the rear apart and put the shackle flip brakets in so i can ditch the blocks...

dc:chili:

DcSkater602
01-04-2007, 01:28 AM
oh and i am exteremely pissed that i spent 700 bux on cage arms and another 200 on shock hoops and got no f-in stickers...not one...when i order my 14" travel cage shocks im gonna tell them thered better be 10 in the box:goodfinge

dc

ok nvrmind on soon...i ahve two pieces of 36" DOM(trac bar and drag link) and a piece of 48" length DOM...all 1.5" .25 wall... also ordered two LH and RH 7/8 x18TPI rod ends for the steering and two 3/4 rod ends for the 3/4 heims... hopefully that stuff will be here tuesday at the latest...im gonna get the truck done...i still ahve alot to do... finish putting the interior back together, shackle flip, re-install gas tank and skid plate...finish tranny xmember..new starter, IAC motor, striker bushings for tailgate latches...i can stay busy all weekend pretty easy...

on the alignment rack wed...:thumbup then off to the exhaust shop to have the new SLP truck muffler installed and duals ran.:rockon

dc

MudOnTheTireS10
01-04-2007, 01:40 AM
oh and i am exteremely pissed that i spent 700 bux on cage arms and another 200 on shock hoops and got no f-in stickers...not one...when i order my 14" travel cage shocks im gonna tell them thered better be 10 in the box:goodfinge

dc

If you get any extras send them my way. I need all that I can get to compete with the mall krawlers around town down here. :rofl:

DcSkater602
01-04-2007, 01:51 AM
what do you expect...i heard cage offroad stickers are worth 2hp each...???

just so everyone knows there are no stickers on my rig... sorry not into it... under my hood is where all the stickers go... only sticker going on the body will be my FSB.com one when i finally order it... the lack of visible stickers must be why my truck is slow

dc:toothless

MudOnTheTireS10
01-04-2007, 02:04 PM
I don't mind putting stickers of good products that I've put a lot of money into. I haven't yet, but there are a few I'd consider. Currie, Detroit, etc as an example anyway.

Shadofax
01-04-2007, 09:39 PM
Here was muds quote I responded to:
And as far as the steering...keep a 60" hi lift jack with you when you go offroading, and don't fix it til its broke

That's just silly. At least stock stuff is reliable on road and off. may not be real strong, but it is safe. I'm saying .120 is very likely not with weld in bungs (and direct tap is out of the question due to thin wall.

Now, as Todd pointed out your math is also incorrect, which you now realize. I mentioned .188 being the thinnest wall I had seen, and that is 57% more thickness in wall than .120.

i think you guys are missing the point. its not like its going to shatter into a million tiny pieces when he turns his truck on. it will just bend really really easy, especially if he does any wheeling with sharp impacts or places a tire in a bind.yep, but I still am more concerned that if it's driven on road, this is also where it may fail....weld with the .120 wall bungs cracking and ripping out due to the constant steering force. Just don't believe the wall thickness is enough for this.

MudOnTheTireS10
01-05-2007, 02:24 AM
As I mentioned in a previous post, I never referred to .120 DOM.
And what's with not understanding the Hi Lift comment?
I think some of you are totally misunderstanding that statement, I didn't think it was that confusing but maybe I could have phrased it better...

DcSkater602
01-05-2007, 03:09 AM
got the new fittings...if they leak and i can't fix them im gonna switch over to a single center drop with hard lines across the axle... right now there is a 3 way female splitting the D-side... i have a feeling the male to male -3 fitting is going to leak at the 3 way block... the threads are right...but the mating surfaces inside are two different shapes...i did some custom shaping to them(grinder)...if they leak im gonna say screw it...

new brakes are all on... i have no friggin clue how to install the caliper slide pins... searching for pics of that now... got one shock hoop done(d-side..) and got my 34" shocks mounted... shock hoops are tall as hell... even with the long shocks they are gonna limit my down travel..i think i only had 5 inches of downtravel left in the shock with weight on axle...

got the 32's on tonight...looks funny...netted 8" of front lift...
new steering and trac bar will be done monday or tuesday... then to alignment and exhaust...

hoping to make paragon on the 15th...:chili:

dc

Shadofax
01-05-2007, 12:21 PM
shock hoops are tall as hell... even with the long shocks they are gonna limit my down travel..i think i only had 5 inches of downtravel left in the shock with weight on axle...

That's too bad. With the cage arms, you need to set the shock so that you have about 9 down.

DcSkater602
01-05-2007, 07:29 PM
ouch...yea i may be looking into a way of making this work...i want my down travel...maybe a longer shock but 35" is already long as hell... i figure it out...

dc

ps pics later tonight

DcSkater602
01-07-2007, 07:09 PM
update:
tranny xmember done... in the middle of installing the sky shackle flip brackets...only issue is i dont have any U-bolts...any that are short enough to use once the 3" block is out...guess ill order them tommorow morning...
once the shackle flip is done ill dop the rear brake line and minus the block/ubolt issue im done the rear...

a can of paint exploded in my hand tonight... almost took my fingers off...luckily i was still wearing my welder's gloves while painting...im covered in black rustoleum... scared the shit outta me...i dont recommend this..

still to do:
reinstall the interior trim - 45 min
starter- 45 min
IAC motor - 20 min
finish shackle flip- another 60 min left
re-install gas tank.. - 30 min
new tie rod tubing and trac bar... an hr...the tubing woint be here till wed

not much left...
scheduled the exhaust work and the alignment... ordering tires soon... hoping to get my 35's by friday so i can be at paragon by saturday:thumbup

dc

ill take some pics tonight

Joes93Bronco
01-07-2007, 08:34 PM
Hurry up!!

:popc1:

DcSkater602
01-07-2007, 10:43 PM
when you buy new shackles from ford...do they come with bushings installed???

i cant get the new bushings(poly) in the old shackles now... prolly gonna just buy new ones

dc

dogonmut
01-07-2007, 10:51 PM
Just to muddy up DC's thread a little more and beat this issue into the ground...


the rare occasion that a tie road and/or knuckle with hi steer breaks
You have never wheeled in rocks...have you?




This is what happens to 1.5" o.d. .375 wall tube when you wedge a tire and have a really good hydro assist set up.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/303396/fullsize/p3180070.jpg

This is the fix. 1.25" o.d. .219 wall tube turned down .003 and then sleeved with 1.75" o.d. .250 wall tube. All D.O.M. of course.
http://images20.fotki.com/v357/photos/1/109911/4291528/ourcamera113-vi.jpg?1164033034

Even with that beef I still carry a spare tie rod with ends installed and set to the correct length.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/401006/fullsize/img_0956.jpg




...but then again...I am pretty gentle on things.:toothless

dogonmut
01-07-2007, 10:53 PM
when you buy new shackles from ford...do they come with bushings installed???

i cant get the new bushings(poly) in the old shackles now... prolly gonna just buy new ones

dc

Yes and rubber is better then polly.

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 01:00 AM
sweet im gonna pick up some new f450 shackles at ford tommorow

dc

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 01:53 AM
pics
sky brackets painted... buying the f450 shackles tommorow
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472880/fullsize/sas10807-001.jpg
tranny xmember done
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472882/fullsize/sas10807-003.jpg
d-side shock hoop on...shocks are runnign outta travel..only have 5 more down...need more travel not sure what im gonna do here yet...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472883/fullsize/sas10807-004.jpg
pass side shock hoop...this one is pissing me off...first off it needs to be relocated because the rear shock is gonna hit on compression(hit the tubing)...secondly its hitting the condensor tubes in the wheel well...thats w/ a 1 inch bucket drop...:banghead wtf
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472885/fullsize/sas10807-007.jpg
hitting the condensor lines....not cool
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472886/fullsize/sas10807-008.jpg
new cart...craftsman...on sale 26 bux
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472887/fullsize/sas10807-010.jpg
that is all for tonight

dc

90Beater
01-08-2007, 02:08 AM
F450 shackles? I assume they are heavier but do the fit the leafs the same as the F150/Bronco ones?

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 02:19 AM
yes and they are 1/4 inch thick...there is a thread in 80-96 about them

dc

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 02:33 AM
prolly gonan wind up being:
16" travel king shocks (480 pair)
http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/07/88/ed/c7_1.JPG
or fox 16" travel ...$430 pair...
http://i6.ebayimg.com/04/i/07/7b/ef/46_1.JPG

damn expensive...so much for dual shocks
problem is i know nothing about pressurizing shocks and adding subtracting oil and blah blah blah...shit

dc

90Beater
01-08-2007, 02:48 AM
So I guess I'm a bad influence. :toothless

I was going back and forth over air shocks vs. resivour.

Call SD. They will valve them to your needs.

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 07:11 AM
i think resivoir is more what i need...problem is once u go for 16" travel they are all 1.25" shaft and the price goes up fast... im thinking maybe just moving the shock mount to on top of the cage arms will make my life easier... i already have 14" travel shocks...it may be easier to change what i have then spend 600 for shocks right now

SD?

dc

Dustin
01-08-2007, 09:14 AM
check your suspension post, i added some info there before I saw this

AS far as air shocks you cant not run them on your rig, is way too heavy and air shocks are not too streetable. they are meant for an offroad only rig. 2.0s are not even close to big enough. the 2.5 might work but they are still not going to function how they should. Air shocks are meant to be run in place of springs. IE like a coilover setup with out the spring. You are just pissing money away and they wont work right on your rig. you would need to run a coilover where you can adjust spring weights and such.



btw you should need much more than a 14" long shock anyway. might double check your measurements.

CJW
01-08-2007, 09:46 AM
Yeah, those shocks are so expensive because they are your suspension.

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 11:04 AM
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/472883/fullsize/sas10807-004.jpg
the pics explain themselves...9 inches of rod showing on a 14" travel shock... i will double check the measurements tonight...if i went expensive id buy a remote resivoir emulsion like 90beater is running... no air shock..

i think ill just relocate the mounts on the cage arms.. put the shock mounts on top...ill play with it some and decide what to do... id like to run the general 14" travel 35"-20" size shocks... anything bigger is mad expensive...

im gonna make the 14" travels work... gonbna settle on the bilstein 5150 resiviors...two valving options... 170/60 and 255/70... any help with valving would be greatly appreciated... its gonna spend a good bit of time on the street

dc

Dustin
01-08-2007, 12:10 PM
air shocks are alot cheaper than say a full coilover setup. They are not meant for use with a coil, they are supposed to be used bythemselves.

you really dont need a resi shock either. just get a good biliesten 5100 or the 5150s(piggback) are good shocks too. The only reason Im running the foxes is I got them for free. however they are some of the best Ive had.

moving the mounts will be your best bet. not sure why cage runs them on the side of the arm and so high with there hoop? anyone know? guess they are expecting mad articulation?

DcSkater602
01-08-2007, 01:19 PM
yea...the side mount will also be rubbed by the tires at full lock..i dont wanna rip my shocks off with the wheel... ill work on that tonight...i hate tearing up the powedercoating but oh well...
i need a little help with valving... remote resivoir bilsteins have 150/50 valving and a 180/75...the piggybacks have what is stated above... and there are some 5125 series standard offroad shocks w/ the 255/70 too... i still wanna run duals so anyone got any advice on the valving???

dc

MudOnTheTireS10
01-08-2007, 06:30 PM
Like I said in 90Beater's thread, the 5125s I got cost $150 for the pair and took 2 guys to get under my truck. Pretty good price as far as I can figure, you may want to go with the 5150s because youre heavier, but just for comparison: My buddy who did most of the fabbing on my truck has the 5100 series on all for corners of his 60/14 bolt 42" IROK ZR2 Blazer with a full exo cage. I'd imagine that if the shocks work good with the weight of his rig, they'd be fine on yours.

Shadofax
01-08-2007, 07:56 PM
I'd move the mounts. That's silly money for those bling shocks.

ToddACimer
01-08-2007, 09:29 PM
What are those shock mounts made for? It seems they dont fit your application at all

dogonmut
01-08-2007, 11:23 PM
gonbna settle on the bilstein 5150 resiviors...two valving options... 170/60 and 255/70... any help with valving would be greatly appreciated... its gonna spend a good bit of time on the street

dc

If 170/60 and 255/70 are your only options and you are going to run 2 shocks per side then go with 170/60 valving.

But why 5150's? For not that much more you can get a much better shock and only run 1 per side which would actually be cheaper. I highly recommend Bilstein 7100's with reservior. If I were you I'd run 1 per side valved at 275/78 charged to about to 210lbs.

...or, if you had the cash, 1 9100 standard body shock per side with the afore stated valving.

I'd rather have 1 highly effictive, efficent, rebuildable and tweekable shock per side then 2 OK, "you get what you get" shocks that might be vavled right.

I'll tell you this much...7100's have made all the difference in the world in the ride quality of my Sami. I have ONE 10" travel 7100 at each corner. The front's are valved at 170/60/charged to 195lbs and the rears are at 150/50/charged to 185lbs.

dogonmut
01-08-2007, 11:38 PM
The best quote I could find about setting up shocks.

"The biggest misconceptions about shocks are: 1) they will "just bolt straight up," regardless of the shock and the intended vehicle, and 2) merely buying a certain shock will make the intended vehicle ride better, without some shock tuning. You have to spend time setting up and tuning the shocks for them to work the way they should."

-Mark Rosevear
McKenzie's Performance Products


This is the best set up and price on the market for helping you tune nitrogen shocks.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=56&cat=11&page=1

DcSkater602
01-09-2007, 12:20 AM
hmmm...ill keep my eyes out and decide what i wanna do... correction on the shock length...i have about 7.5" of rod showing...i dont expect to get 7" of up travel...but i want my full droop(even though the pitman TRE binds at full droop.... limit straps will be installed) im gonna stick w/ the 14" travel and go with better shocks and relocate the shock tabs...

i gotta get the thing done... i will fine tune shocks and location later...

dc

edit:Bilstein 7100 series...remote resivior 14" travel shocks...there 175 each...the no resivior are 140
available valving...
150/50
170/60
180/75
255/70
275/78
360/80
if i got this route ill just run one shock per side... run heavy valving... dont wanna stiffen the road ride too much but i doubt thats possible w/ the deaver coils... im gonna run standard 5100's in the rear

DcSkater602
01-09-2007, 07:56 PM
buddy of mien came over tonight w/ his f150 on 35's...we pulled the tires and test fit the BKO... im sticking w/ the 35"... waiting on a call back from a buddy on prices:thumbup

just waiting on parts now... stock length u bolts due here wed or thursday including the rock guard for the d44 diff i bought(i hope it fits w/ the steering)...tubing and rod ends should be here round then too,...
gotta pick up fuel line clips so i can reinstall the gas tank...lost one... then i can start it and bleed the brakes...hopefully they dont leak...

gotta figure out the t-bird calipers... i had to grind them slightly to get them on and couldnt fit the spring...they are tight... no room for movement so i gotta fix them

dc

DcSkater602
01-10-2007, 10:43 AM
1 more question...chebby TRE's... the threaded end doesn't come through the knuckles enough... basically the nut is on and tight...but not enough thread to catch a cotter pin... flip the nut? id only be catching like 3 threads

dc

90Beater
01-10-2007, 10:56 AM
Did you ream the knuckles? If so you might not have gone deep enough.

DcSkater602
01-10-2007, 11:09 AM
the taper on the TRE \/ ... i stopped reaming when i set the TRE in the taper and the top edge of the knucle was where that taper stopped...ill take a pic...

basically the TRE curves back in at the widest point on the taper... i stopped reaming at that point(widest point right on top) get it?

?????????

dc

90Beater
01-10-2007, 12:09 PM
Keep going but a little bit at a time until you get deep enough to get a cotter pin in without the boot on the TRE. Be careful since you can go from not enough to ruined knuckle if you arn't paying attention.

DcSkater602
01-10-2007, 12:46 PM
alright so dont flip the nut huh?
dc

Shadofax
01-10-2007, 01:04 PM
alright so dont flip the nut huh?
dc

no, you said you had like three threads, not enough. it likely needs just a bit more as Chris said...keeping in mind that once you get a decent number of threads for the nut, as you torque it the TRE taper will "pull down" further into the knuckle which is why it's important not to go too far, but it does sound like you are just not quite there. be patient, be slow, don't go with the Force luke.

DcSkater602
01-10-2007, 01:31 PM
gotcha....i gotta get another reamer...we used my snap -on one for work to ream 240 holes through 1/4 inch... its shot

thanks

dc

DcSkater602
01-11-2007, 12:46 AM
ok didnt get many pics tonight...camera battery died
F350 booster and MC are on...this booster looks different than some ive seen in pics... i double checked the part #... 91 F350 SRW???w/e
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/473713/fullsize/sas011007-001.jpg
rear suspension is finally done...got the new ubolts... no blocks...rear is dead on level with the front as far as ground to wheel well...factory wedge still in..pinion angle is good... gotta get some zero rates
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/473714/fullsize/sas011007-002.jpg
long view
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/473716/fullsize/sas011007-003.jpg
tonight i pulled the blocks and installed the new ubolts.. installed the rear extended braided brake line... tightened up the front lines and bled the sytem... flush w/ DOT 4... passenger side line was leaking... not sure if it still is... i tightened the chit outta it... rear bled fine... front never stopped bubbling so gotta mess w/ it tommorow./.. i basically just need it to make it to the shop so i can align it... im ordering the 12" lines from bcbroncos and the banjo bolt and im gonna run the lines on the axel(center drop) i dont like the long lines... pedal is tight however...also got the cage arms tightened

tommorow: get fuel line clips from napa and re-install gas tank so i can start the damn thing... order a new reamer so i can finish steering... make the new steering linkage...install cotter pins and jam nuts where necessary and drink a beer...interior still needs put back together but i just wanna drive it.. also gotta get the prices on the new tires... see if i can get the brakes bled properly... sigh... only PIA thing i have left to do is drop the tranny xmember and drill two more holes... passenger side is held up by only 1 bolt of 3 right now...i may just put a clamp on it and do it at the shop where i can use the lift... im tired of rolling a floor jack around and laying on my back

anyways...sweet almost done:chili: Btw the toyo tires i want were on national backorder so im gonan prolly get BFG's again...we will see

dc

came out to be 8" dead on..

zainyD
01-11-2007, 07:16 AM
Lookin' good!

ToddACimer
01-11-2007, 10:08 AM
Why'd you put DOT4 fluid in and not the standard DOT3

UTIBronco
01-11-2007, 10:26 AM
Looks great!!:rockon

Mack24
01-11-2007, 04:26 PM
how much did all this cost so far?

DcSkater602
01-11-2007, 06:49 PM
i have to tally again...prolly around 2300... ordering tires tommorow...35x12.5 BFG's....
DOT 4 is compatible w/ DOT 3 and has higher boiling points and more resistance to water

got my parts.. fuel line clips for gas tank...got some adapters for brake lines...should fix passenger side... bleed them out and drive to shop tommorow...1 problem...my tubing isnt here...so tommorow AM when it shows up ill weld up the new links and take it down there...pics in a little bit when i can call it pretty much done..

things coming in the future couple of weeks...
braided lines from BCbroncos for tbird calipers...doing the 78 style center drop with hard lines on the axel.
new shocks...bilstein 7100 front not sure on rear...very soon the superlift duals are super tight
relocating cage arm shock mount before i wheel it.,..
new d-shaft is being made tonight...
front d-shaft extention if need be

dc
dc

Shadofax
01-11-2007, 07:57 PM
Why'd you put DOT4 fluid in and not the standard DOT3

as DC mentioned, it's compatible, the valvoline stuff is synthetic with a higher boiling point, more resistant to water absorption in lines, and cost is like a buck more for a litre so it's worth it.

DC, those brake lines ended up awful long huh?:duh
People get all excited talking about major long brake lines, 16+ inch shock travel shocks, and even with cage arms, rod ends on the trackbar, and superflex coils, I'll stake a claim you ain't gonna use it unless you go to something even more radical in suspension. I have not maxed out my lines (which are about 6"+ shorter than yours and meant for a chevy K20 with 8-10" of lift), nor my cheapo (but good) cage 14" travel shocks.

DcSkater602
01-11-2007, 08:50 PM
yea...im sticking w/ 14" travel shocks and re-doing the lines...im putting them down on the axel...they are way to long and i hate the look of them on the rails...

truck is prcatically done...got her fired up and got the brakes to stop leaking... bled the brakes f350 stuff feels good.. i wanna drive it so bad but my stupid tubin g f-ed me...

still gotta fit the t-bird calipers properly...they are really tight in there....the ( shaped spring isnt in either... i already had to grind them a little bit just to get the slide retainer in... once the brakes are good and im satisfied they are not gonna stick and bind the caliper im good... getting the tubing locally tommorow and gonna get that stuff done...alignment might have to wait till saturday

dc

Billingslee
01-12-2007, 12:33 AM
im gettin horny waitn for this thing

DcSkater602
01-12-2007, 01:37 AM
hahaha...aight so now the question is...bias ply or radial IROK's??? im just gonna pony up the dough and get the good stuff...even though the truck see alot of street...
im going w/ the IROK's if we can get them through the shop...if not i may be stuck with the BFG's... theres a thread in tire/wheel...only issue w/ IROK is they are 13.5 wide...my wheels are 8"... that not so good

dc

DcSkater602
01-12-2007, 01:39 AM
DOM never showed...i cancelled it...i ordered it last week and they hadnt even shipped it yet...hopefully my local guy can get me some early tommorow

dc

Shadofax
01-12-2007, 12:26 PM
hahaha...aight so now the question is...bias ply or radial IROK's??? im just gonna pony up the dough and get the good stuff...even though the truck see alot of street...
im going w/ the IROK's if we can get them through the shop...if not i may be stuck with the BFG's... theres a thread in tire/wheel...only issue w/ IROK is they are 13.5 wide...my wheels are 8"... that not so good

dc

The radial version should be 12.5" my 37" IROK radials are. Either is likely fine, but if you drive it on road daily, I'd prefer the radials. For true offroad durability I'd rather have a bias.

94_chickentaco
01-12-2007, 05:00 PM
The radial version is 13.5,

Clint aka 84x4 is running the 36x13.50x15's on his with 8" rims, ask him for pics and how he likes them

DcSkater602
01-12-2007, 07:04 PM
aight picked up tires today... 35x12.5x15... Mickey thompson Baja MTZ
http://www.cooperrehvid.ee/images/banner-5093-QzJuaH8AAAEAAHsh0@s.jpg
they went on my 15x8 MT classix 2 wheels for now...saving up for beadlocks... the wheel weights look like ass...i used hammer ons cuz stick ons always fall off...do beads work well??? im gonna have to use stick ons or beads when i go beadlock... one tire took 3 ounces the other done so far took 4 inside and 5 outside... not so cool...but there balanced...

truck is at the shop now... front tires on...gonna balance the rears tommorow... drove it there... brakes work... didnt really get to fully test them bc i drove 25mph the whole way... trac bar is till too long...hopedully i can get steel to fix that tommorow or I cant align it... pass side coil clanked in the upper mount the whole way but never came out... no rear shocks./... no alignment...basically it drove like total piss
hopefully the guy calls me tonight about tubing and i can get the steering/trac bar done tommorow...

i did notice the lower mount for the cage hoops moved alot... it wasnt bolted or welded yet and the dual shocks moved it significantly...

gotta get a new reamer from the Snap On man... finish the steering properly and drill vertical holes thropugh the cage arm mounts...and another hole in tranny xmember... at least now im at the shop where ian utilize the lift so i should be able to bang some stuff out tommorow

oh yea truck is pretty level../. between the superlift leafs and the shackle flip the rear looks horrible...need a zero rate to move it back
pics tommorow

dc

94_chickentaco
01-13-2007, 09:59 AM
gotta get a new reamer from the Snap On man

What is cheaper? A reamer from the Snap on truck or a manned space mission to mars?

Crazed
01-13-2007, 10:04 AM
truck is at the shop now... front tires on...gonna balance the rears tommorow... drove it there... brakes work... didnt really get to fully test them bc i drove 25mph the whole way... trac bar is till too long...hopedully i can get steel to fix that tommorow or I cant align it... pass side coil clanked in the upper mount the whole way but never came out... no rear shocks./... no alignment...basically it drove like total piss
hopefully the guy calls me tonight about tubing and i can get the steering/trac bar done tommorow...

i did notice the lower mount for the cage hoops moved alot... it wasnt bolted or welded yet and the dual shocks moved it significantly...



dc


That sounds like one of the most unsafe things i have ever heard about being on the road.

CJW
01-13-2007, 11:49 AM
pass side coil clanked in the upper mount the whole way but never came out...

I particularly liked this part. Didn't really know what to think about that. Coil clanking around, and you had to worry about it coming out, yet still getting driven.:wacko

Crazed
01-13-2007, 11:59 AM
It is a proven SAS you are doing, just get it right before you put it on the road.

DcSkater602
01-13-2007, 01:24 PM
don't worry it wont be on the road until ready now...

the pass side coil was a little scary... however it was ratchet straped to the far frame rail so i don't think it could have came out... but yea it wasnt the safest ride but held together fine..

new tires are on and balanced... got my DOM...gonna align it monday

dc

DcSkater602
01-13-2007, 07:18 PM
new tie rod is done... new drag link is done and shortened an inch and a half...new track bar is done and shortened 2"...all 1.5" .25 wall DOM...there painted and drying...didnt feel like grinding the welds smooth this time though...ill do it someday

truck is at the shop...ill take pics monday when i go in...
hres the hit list:
Drilling:
2 holes on passenger side of transxmember... its held on by 1 bolt and a clamp right now:toothless
drill vertical holes in both cage brackets...
install new steering and trac bar...align truck...
spacer for cage hoops.
relocate lower shock mounts..
finish rear brakes..i cant wait to do disks in the rear
get rear shocks
reinstall front bumper
...sigh...it never ends:cry

but it looks bad ass!

dc

reptillikus
01-13-2007, 07:33 PM
You better hurry up if you wanna go wheelin this weekend :toothless

Hopper
01-13-2007, 10:03 PM
Where are the pics??? :toothless

DcSkater602
01-14-2007, 01:11 PM
i know im hurrying... truck is locked up in the shop...no pics till tommorow...sorry...
im up for wheelin... it may snow on tuesday here...no idea what pocono weeather is looking like,,,

anyways no classes tommorow so hopefully i can get the truck done tommorow

you guys are gonna make me break things...no rocks...my slider's arent done...i dont want no BD

dc

AcePaul
01-15-2007, 11:23 AM
you guys are gonna make me break things...no rocks...my slider's arent done...i dont want no BD
dc

People worth wheeling with won't make you do anything you don't want to. But it's kinda hard to run around Paragon without finding rocks. :toothless :toothless

I'm trying to think of which trails we should hit with you on 35's.
Mid blues to Easy blacks?

DcSkater602
01-15-2007, 12:16 PM
i know that...no problem there at all...just none as tall as my truck lol... once i get some body protection im up for it...:thumbup

paragon rocks hurt... i broke/dented everything you can on a rear swingarm of a 4 wheeler last time... oh and my rear wheels are now shaped like this 0

i wanna hit some light-moderate trails and get a little flex going...i havent gotten to do any wheeling in almost 8 months...im anxious!

dc

DcSkater602
01-15-2007, 07:40 PM
Sorry!:twak no pics... truck is getting aligned tommorow

im gonna go get my fullsize membership now:drinkbud

dc

broncoboy23
01-17-2007, 03:45 PM
we definetly need some flex pics.

DcSkater602
01-18-2007, 12:38 AM
PICS@!!!!shock hoops arent final mounted yet...however it drives very well!
exhaust is done...ill eb putting the final touches on this week
its dark out but ill get some better pics and flex pics tommorow
BTW heres my 91 since ive never had it up here...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475692/fullsize/sas-0118-001.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475693/fullsize/sas-0118-002.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475694/fullsize/sas-0118-003.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475695/fullsize/sas-0118-004.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475696/fullsize/sas-0118-005.jpg
new tires 35x12.5
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475697/fullsize/sas-0118-006.jpg
my new double cardigan front d-shaft from f350...w/ tcase yoke:thumbup
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/475698/fullsize/sas-0118-007.jpg
i did flex it some tonight,...had the front maxed out...shocks were limiting me by a good couple of inches...badass though
burns the tires if it wants, f350 brakes lock up the 35's./..im super happy...it is getting a steering stabilizer... only because my steering is still so extremely light...even with the 35's steering is capable w/ my pinky(saginaw PS pump)...its almost loose and im not used to driving it anymore

ill get saome daylight flex pics tommorow

dc

Hopper
01-18-2007, 12:43 AM
nice man, are you planning on shortening the lift or upping the tire size in the future?

DcSkater602
01-18-2007, 12:53 AM
it'll settle a little... i like the articulation ability right now on the 35's... one day im gonna run 38x15.5 on 18's...there just out of budget

Joes93Bronco
01-18-2007, 01:12 AM
my new double cardigan front d-shaft from f350...w/ tcase yoke:thumbup


Thats "double CARDAN"

A cardigan is a sweater. :goodfinge

Looks purty. you gonna re-center that rear axle?

DcSkater602
01-18-2007, 01:14 AM
yea making the zero rates this weekend...fine ....cardigan:goodfinge

im off to bed

dc

reptillikus
01-18-2007, 11:44 AM
I just realized that you have a Silver Anniversary :rockon Gotta be the first to SAS one of those.

DcSkater602
01-18-2007, 02:08 PM
:smokin: i think ur right..thanks reptillikus

EDIT: truck is back in my shop... over the next two nights im gonna get my sliders started...gonna drill for the plates to the frame on them and tack up the frame mounts and the main bar... taking them to the shop this weekend to do some final welding and tubing bending... im using the 220v welder b/c they are completely 1/4 thick all around and i plann on using them to hold weight of the truck up...

tonight: new starter, new IAC motor, start the sliders
tommorow: finish tacking up the sliders and relocate the lower shock tabs up 3"...that will put me at 5" of rod showing on 14" travel shocks...sound good? 5 up 9 down?less? more???
i oughta just buy the 16" travel...
got a new reamer...gonna ream a little more on the two draglink ends...those are the only ones that need it...
ill take some pics tonight

dc

MudOnTheTireS10
01-18-2007, 05:57 PM
You don't want to leave too little up travel for those shocks. You certainly dont need 16" shocks.

reptillikus
01-18-2007, 05:58 PM
I am running 5" of uptravel on my 14" shocks and have more susp. travel than i know what to do with :toothless

MudOnTheTireS10
01-18-2007, 06:42 PM
5" sounds about right, but you wouldn't want to go down to 3" or anything like that. I'm probably about in the 5" area, but I run my shocks with the rods showing at the bottom on the Bilsteins. Basically, a tiny bit of uptravel and a ton of downtravel would be a worse alternative to having a decent amount of uptravel and a decent amount of downtravel, as far as I've figured anyhow.

Shadofax
01-18-2007, 06:52 PM
yes. 14" is plenty. mine is set at 5/9. I almost use up all that 5", so if big jumping is in your future be advised. You can get practically airborne though and not have them bottom. I have installed bumpies though to limit it starting at about 4". Really have to since the 37's are well into the wheelwell by then and you have to have BS and placement just right. I likely would still rub a little fully stuffed, but it hasn't happened yet.

83rustbucket
01-18-2007, 07:59 PM
I just realized that you have a Silver Anniversary :rockon Gotta be the first to SAS one of those.

Not the first one. I have had my silver anniversary done for about 8 months. I did the same thing but I used duff arms not cage.

reptillikus
01-18-2007, 10:01 PM
D'oh! Youre right. Didnt notice the SA Badges in your pics :brownbag

DcSkater602
01-21-2007, 01:48 AM
drove the truck tonight...
one not so cool thing...d-shaft vibration...still pretty bad...the pinion angle was negative...i pulled the factory shim and now the angle is maybe 1* or 2* if not dead striaght... i still havwe a vibration./..its not the driveshaft... im thinking either its the pinion angle or it looked like the d-shaft was slightly to the side... meaning the tranny isnt centered with the axel..(maybe got moved and measured wrong when i did the tranny xmember?? ill have to measure but it looks off a little)

what do ya think? ill take a pic of the angle in the am... i may re-install the factory shim block backwards to point it down more

other than having no rear shocks still...it drives awesome!
dc

DBerk
01-21-2007, 02:49 AM
Did you get the Micky Thompson MTZ? Looks sweet man, nice job

DcSkater602
01-22-2007, 02:41 AM
yea tires are nice so far... a little noisier than the BFG's on road...

reptillikus
01-22-2007, 10:59 AM
drove the truck tonight...
one not so cool thing...d-shaft vibration...still pretty bad...


Ok, its a double cardan shaft, which means you can aim the rear pinion right at the tcase, or a couple degrees below it and it will work fine. Even mine is smooth up to about 60mph (i run out of transmission gears at that point). Definitely measure to make sure your trans is still centered, altho im not sure if that will cause a bad vibration. Maybe someone else here can answer that one.
Now, you say its not a dshaft vibration.....well then where is it coming from, the front or the back of the truck? Or one side? Does it show up at certain speeds or RPMs, or is it there constantly? We need more info!

Doba
01-22-2007, 11:27 AM
wtf is "hollar"?

Shadofax
01-22-2007, 12:02 PM
yea, more info.

How are you so sure it's not the driveshaft? Did you put in the 10.25 rear yet?

on side to side angularity, I have that as well since my D60 rear diff is "centered" i.e. both axleshafts are the same length, whereas the 8.8 axleshafts, one was slightly shorter than the other (offset) so it would perfectly match the 1356 output location. This won't hurt, it just means you have dual plane Driveshaft alighnment issues, so the pinion height should be close to pointing at the Tcase (within 3* below it ideally), and then side to side you'll also likely have several degrees of difference too. This is ok, though it may always have some minor virbration to it. I have a vibration above say 55mph that is likely in part due to driveshaft.

DcSkater602
01-22-2007, 12:48 PM
mine gets pretty bad at high speed(65 mph) and i can feel it as soon as i step on the gas..
when i say its not the d-shaft i mean its not the d-shaft itself...it was just built and balanced...
the pinion is dead straight right now... so theoretically when im driving and step on the gas...the axle torques up slightly, most likely creating a negative angle... thus causing my vibration...
im gonna put the factory shim block in backwards and see where im at... that should point me down a few degrees...
i just wanted to clarify the off center issue i had...ill try again w/ the pinion angle and if it still exists i will mess w/ the crossmember

dc

DcSkater602
01-29-2007, 03:43 PM
still have some things to do...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/479068/fullsize/test-005.jpg

BTW: SAS 6" deaver coils w/ 1" coil bucket drop(7" lift) has me at 8" lift... cage arms with 4* poly bushings....

CASTER is 5.2*

go with the 2*

dc

CJW
01-29-2007, 03:53 PM
Nice!!!

broncoboy23
01-29-2007, 09:33 PM
by 1" coil bucket drop, you mean you moved it down 1" on the frame effectively lifting the truck another inch, is this correct or am I backwards?

oh and BTW thats some AWESOME flex!

DcSkater602
01-30-2007, 12:17 AM
yes moved it down adding more lift... btw guys...i measured the shocks tonight...there at about 8 1/4 - 8 1/2 icnhes of rod showing...so thats just over 5" of travel... soon to be 9"

dc

phxbronco
02-03-2007, 12:53 AM
with that much lift why didnt you go with 7 degree bushings.might help with pinion angle and relieving some of your vibration

DcSkater602
02-03-2007, 01:07 AM
wrong direction man... pinion angle and all is "too good" i needed a 2* bushing...the cage arms have 4.25* built into them...

i have 5.2* caster now... need less

dc

Shadofax
02-03-2007, 12:54 PM
wrong direction man... pinion angle and all is "too good" i needed a 2* bushing...the cage arms have 4.25* built into them...

i have 5.2* caster now... need less

dc

If you actually have the 5* i'd be happy with that.

Mine is more like 7-8* with a 4* bushing. with cage arms only the 2* is needed for the typical 6-8" lift.

DcSkater602
02-03-2007, 08:55 PM
yea i got 8" of lift...i dropped the buckets... id still like to be a little lower to get the return to center a little faster...

5* isnt bad...but id liek to eb a little lower...however it wont happen bc they are a biatch to install

dc

h8nlife
02-23-2007, 10:52 PM
Sweet....looking good. Now I know who's local and experienced when I go to do mine:beer

Haustkraft
02-25-2007, 05:48 PM
still have some things to do...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/479068/fullsize/test-005.jpg

BTW: SAS 6" deaver coils w/ 1" coil bucket drop(7" lift) has me at 8" lift... cage arms with 4* poly bushings....

CASTER is 5.2*

go with the 2*

dc

Where did you get Deaver coils? I thought they only made them for the early Broncos 66-77?

ToddACimer
02-25-2007, 05:53 PM
Where did you get Deaver coils? I thought they only made them for the early Broncos 66-77?

Same as superflex

Joes93Bronco
02-25-2007, 06:46 PM
Where did you get Deaver coils? I thought they only made them for the early Broncos 66-77?

Same as superflex

Thats right the Superflex coils sold by JBG are manufactured by Deaver.

DcSkater602
02-25-2007, 07:21 PM
:stupid