Let's say you have a $10k budget and want to turn your daily driver Bronco into a decent prerunner, what would be on your list of things to do ?

Call CAMBURG (http://www.camburg.com/about.html)

Buy a better candidate for the job.

Buy a better candidate for the job.

Like what? The bronco is one of the best. Not quite enough wheelbase, but is otherwise very close to the f-150 that is one of the best prerunner bases to build on. The TTB is the standard for prerunner frontends.

Exactly...I'd get an F-150 and build that up. They are much more plentiful in junk yards and what not and IMO easier to work on in many aspects.

plus the longer wheelbase cant hurt

maybe he still wants the ability to seat 5 tho, theres been plenty of successful pre runner broncos.

i second the call camburg, if i had the funds i would..but for my f150, the bronco stays as it sits til sas and real lift. plus the f150 aint pretty but for what it is and does for 500bones it dont get much better

yeah I second that go F150 or why not a Ranger? if your spending 10K you can build one bad a** ranger! (IMO)

back to the original q:
I would want a decent long travel suspension.
A sweet looking pre-runner bumper
A tire carrier that would hold at least 1 spare inside(maybe 2), that would'nt come loose like mine did.

Let's say you have a $10k budget and want to turn your daily driver Bronco into a decent prerunner, what would be on your list of things to do ?

I have Autofab suspension on the front and rear of my truck and it handles incredibly well. Sure it's not capable of blistering speeds, but it'll go fast enough to scare the sh#% out of most people.

A few questions... Are you planning on paying for a cage with the 10k? If it is being caged, will the cage extend to the front end? Is the rest of the truck in good condition (engine, trans, etc.)? Or, are you going to have to spend some of the money making it reliable?

As far as Broncos not being ideal prerunners, it all depends on what you're after. Ollie (PBR on this board) says he's owned a lot of prerunners in his day and that his Bronco is the best prerunner he's ever owned (his also has an Autofab front end). Fastest? No, but he seems to like above the others he's owned. Personally I've been blown away by how good my Bronco feels off-road. I never expected it to handle as well as it does.

make sure its reliable, or you will have a nice suspenion with a BD truck. like me but at least i got a year out of her before she blow

Going with an F150 is not an option. The condition of the vehicle at the starting point is in excellent condition, motor, trans, gears (4.56 locked up),paint and interior all in excellent condition. As for a cage that would have to come out of the 10k.

back to the original q:
I would want a decent long travel suspension.
A sweet looking pre-runner bumper
A tire carrier that would hold at least 1 spare inside(maybe 2), that would'nt come loose like mine did.

Call Camburg. Or click the link I posted above and look at there stuff. Autofab long travel stuff has a good rep. also.

As for the prerunner bumpers and tire carrier...........

Get some ideas from bumpers on this site and take em to a competent fab shop and have em built. With the rear seat removed you should be able to bolt the same tire carrier a pick up uses.

EDIT: I searched both "prerunner" & "pre-runner" and got a bunch of hits. Make sure you do an advanced search of titles only. You get mo' betta stuff that way.

Who was it that had the custom fenders posted recently? Was that you Steve?

Are you saying you got $10 G's to play with?

Are you saying you got $10 G's to play with?


10k is the max I want to put into it

How big of a hurry are you in? I began my search for parts about 4 months ago, i go through the classifieds on this site, but most of what i have gotten has been from http://race-dezert.com/index1.html or from http://www.dezertrangers.com/main.php

So far i have Autofab coil buckets, eibach coil springs, deaver leafs, King 2.5 shocks, Autofab front fenders
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152783.jpg

http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152780.jpg

For all the parts shown i have spent $1200. Cut and turned beams and custom radius arms from Solo motorsports will cost me $1000, and $1300 for solo to put the whole package together.

I was inspired by both SteveG's and Blancobroncos builds, and i have to give a big thanks to SteveG for the questions he's answered, and the info he has put up on this site.

So what it comes down to is how patient are you, and how involved in your build do you want to get.

Call CAMBURG (http://www.camburg.com/about.html)

scary :shocked i didnt see any prices.

Going with an F150 is not an option. The condition of the vehicle at the starting point is in excellent condition, motor, trans, gears (4.56 locked up),paint and interior all in excellent condition. As for a cage that would have to come out of the 10k.

Ok, now we've got some good info to work with. I'm assuming you're going to pay someone to build a cage and that it will be relatively simple (not race-ready).

It's tough to say how much a cage will cost because there are so many variables...labor cost, materials, etc. I'm going to go work with the assumption that the cage will cost you about $2,000. It could cost you a lot more depending on what you want....

Because of your budget I would stay stock width. You can go with a coil-over or coil-bucket. Either works well but Coil-overs will cost more. I've seen a lot of coil-bucket trucks that work extremely well and withstand tens of thousands of off-road miles without destroying the frame (because they load it as intended). If you use a coil-over I recommend extending the cage into the engine bay as the coil-over towers are very tall and put a lot of stress on the frame if unsupported. Spirit Racing has a nice bolt-on coil-over structure.

For the rear, keep it simple. A good set of leaves and an under-floor shock mount structure. An anti-wrap device is key. I cannot stress enough how much difference this makes. I have a 2-link kit on my Bronco and man am I glad I ponied up and bought it. The difference in performance is night and day and it'll help your keep you leaf springs alive.

So you've got $8,000, here's what I described would cost you (approximately).

4 new 2.5" shocks: $1600
Front end in kit form: $3,000 Add for coil-overs
Rear suspension kit: $1,800
TOTAL w/cage: $8,400

This leaves you $1600 for all the little stuff you never think about while planning.

Brokenbronco gave good advice. If you're patient you can find a lot of good used parts for a lot less money and the end product can be just as nice as new.

BTW: My shocks will probably be for sale soon. ;)

How big of a hurry are you in? I began my search for parts about 4 months ago, i go through the classifieds on this site, but most of what i have gotten has been from http://race-dezert.com/index1.html or from http://www.dezertrangers.com/main.php

So far i have Autofab coil buckets, eibach coil springs, deaver leafs, King 2.5 shocks, Autofab front fenders
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152783.jpg

http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152780.jpg

For all the parts shown i have spent $1200. Cut and turned beams and custom radius arms from Solo motorsports will cost me $1000, and $1300 for solo to put the whole package together.

I was inspired by both SteveG's and Blancobroncos builds, and i have to give a big thanks to SteveG for the questions he's answered, and the info he has put up on this site.

So what it comes down to is how patient are you, and how involved in your build do you want to get.
You don't want all that stuff, think of how much work it'll be to put on... You can just ship it to me and I'll take care of all of it for you. http://www.theplaceholder.com/forums/images/smilies/lookaround%5B1%5D.gif :D

For all the parts shown i have spent $1200. Cut and turned beams and custom radius arms from Solo motorsports will cost me $1000, and $1300 for solo to put the whole package together.

So far you've done awesome on finding deals!

$1000 for modified beams and radius arms is really cheap. I'd definitely like to see pics.


So Don, what's the verdict?

Steve G is definately putting together a nice build for you, auto fab and camburg both offer iMO the best options for us in the long travel dept. I personally have camburg in mine in fact their updated website shows my bronco for their performance lift. I also replaced the rear leaves with the deavers and what a differance. I had it out last weekend pulling pre run and pit/chase duties at a race and I am very happy with how it works. THe biggest thing you will find is our wheelbase prevents you from getting massive speed through the big whoops. I am running about twelve inches of travel and as hard as i pushed on the bronco I never hit the bumpstops. I will warn you though that both camburg and auto fab are not the cheapest in town but you also get what you pay for. The only other peice of advice I will offer is make a plan think about it, research it, and then take your time. Also if you go long travel dont think you are only limited to desert running, the long travel stuff is great in moderate rock crawling as well, I have been building towards a all purpose rig and so far I am very pleased with how it is turning out. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

THe biggest thing you will find is our wheelbase prevents you from getting massive speed through the big whoops.

The 2-link kit helps this a lot. Without the bars installed it feels like the rear end of my truck is skipping over bumps and whoops. It still makes it over terrain at speed, but it's no where near as graceful. With the bars installed it feels like the rear wheels are actually rolling over the rough and like the wheels are drooping and compressing more consistently instead of just bouncing over stuff.

Of course a Bronco will always have imitations due to wheelbase, but they can be improved dramatically.

SteveG I don't have any pics of my stock width beams yet, but here are the Solo 4" over beams
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152916.jpg
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152915.jpg

Camburg lists their cut and turned beams for $550 + core...

Polar Cub, I'd like some pics of the Cambrg in the rocks if you have any. I'm doing an all purpose rig as well, and I'd like to see how that performs. I already have 75% of the stuff for an SAS, but I'm still curious as to the other direction...

hello guys
while i enjoy the versatility offered by the fsb, i am a fan of desert racing. i ocasionally pit for the local races. I have experienced the advantages and drawbacks of a fsb in the desert.

I have been following the different threads about pre runners, and let me say i have learned a few things.

As many of you, i am continually looking forward improve my bronc...so far, i have stopped short of installing custom suspension pieces, because in case of breakdown, it is hard to get replacements for the stock stuff in the middle of nowhere (bahia de los angeles? san ignacio?)....imagine custom.

Anyway, keep up the good write ups...and i hope to see u in the next baja 500 or baja 1000

So far you've done awesome on finding deals!

$1000 for modified beams and radius arms is really cheap. I'd definitely like to see pics.


So Don, what's the verdict?

I have 4+ weeks to get this completed. I'm leaving San Felipe on April 30th for Cabo San Lucas and it will be mostly offroad miles to and from. I'm still researching and trying to decide. SteveG I read your entire thread, thanks for all the info. :beer

Well it's no secret that I'm a big fan of Autofab, but that aside, I really think it's the way to go in your situation. I can honestly say you can bolt the stuff on and go play. Their reputation for excellent performance and durability speaks for itself.

I think your time line rules out coil-overs.

If I had bought complete front and rear kits (I wish I had) instead of building the upper shock mounts myself, I could have put my Bronco together in one weekend with help from one of my techs.

Installing the kits on your truck is the same except for the fact that you have a lot more to deal with under the hood.
If you get this kit (you can run it with one shock):

http://autofab.com/4wd_2_swayaway_per_wheel_kit.JPG

You'll need to move some things under the hood. How much I don't know. John could tell you. That kit is basically what I have minus the shock behind the coil-bucket (I don't really need it).

If you want to make it really easy on yourself, order the kit with this coil-bucket:

http://autofab.com/Ricks%20bronco.jpg

With or without the hydraulic bump stop will work well. Of course it would be cheaper without. I don't know what your skills and experience are, but I bet with help you could do it in a weekend if you work hard.

BTW: Call John and tell him Steve Gonzalez sent you. The guy reeeaaaaallllllllyyyyy knows TTBs and is a wealth of information. If you're having a hard time getting through to him, tell the receptionist I told you to call John and it might help get him on the phone a bit faster.

Good luck and keep us posted!

I have been communicating with John through email when I have a question and I always get a detailed response. My last question to him was about his labor prices to install one of his kits. He warned me up front that his labor isn't cheap. Without the cost of the front and rear kits his "labor only" would only leave me $ 1,000.00 left on my 10k budget :cry So I'm looking for a shop to do the install...I'm not affraid to admit that I don't think I'm setup to handle it in my garage.

I did order my Race Radio. I went with the Icom V8000 with a magnetic antenna from RLH Communications in National City, CA. Right now he "Radio Bob" has a special when you buy a radio ($309.00) he will give you a FREE magnetic antenna ($79.00) and he will do the "mods" for free and program any frequency's you give him for free. His website is www.rlhcomm.com he does all the radio communications for the BFG pits at the races.

I bought a V8000 as well. I haven't really used it but I know several people that are really happy with it.


I wish I was closer. I'd definitely be up for installing it. The shop I work at is more than equipped to handle it. If you're up for a 3+ hour drive to drop it off, though, give me a call!

I have a friend that owns an off-road/race prep shop down south that could probably get it done before your deadline. Let me know if you're interested.

Hopper,
Srry no pics of me in the rocks, but I can tell you that the increase in travel is a big help. Not the same as forced articulation but it is a help. SAS is great as well and with the proper tuning you can get great all around performance out of it as well.
Steve, thanks for the insight on the rear as I have been looking at that setup for quite awhile. I have to save some more pennies for now but I think it would be worth it to go that route. I like where this thread has gone and there is some good info. Good luck.

steveG
Do you have any pictures of the autofab kit that uses a single 2.5 front shock and their custom coil bucket ? I'm thinking this may be the way for me to go and still get the 16" of travel I would like.

I'm guessing your talking about a single 2.5" shock behind the coil-bucket. If that's correct then this is it:

http://autofab.com/Ricks%20bronco.jpg

Like I said, the hydraulic bump stop on the front of the coil-bucket pictured is optional. You don't need it and you can always add that later.

It's certainly the simplest option. There's a lot less to relocate under the hood when you don't have a tall shock hoop in the way.

What brand shocks do you plan on using?

I'm thinking Fox. Is that reservoir location a problem? It looks like it may be susceptible to rocks in that location.

I'm guessing your talking about a single 2.5" shock behind the coil-bucket. If that's correct then this is it:

http://autofab.com/Ricks%20bronco.jpg

Like I said, the hydraulic bump stop on the front of the coil-bucket pictured is optional. You don't need it and you can always add that later.

It's certainly the simplest option. There's a lot less to relocate under the hood when you don't have a tall shock hoop in the way.

What brand shocks do you plan on using?

BroncoDon, you have a pm.

just my 2 cent, John's labor was part of why i didnt buy autofab. Camburg charged me about $1000 to install there stuff.

Here's an update on my prerunner
Solo radius arms
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152999.jpg
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/152998.jpg

Autofab coil buckets
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BknBronco/153001.jpg

Brokenbronco, please keep us updated on how this works out and how it rides/handles when complete.

Brokenbronco, please keep us updated on how this works out and how it rides/handles when complete.

I will. I'm picking it up tomorrow, and heading out to the mdr mojave 250 on saturday, that will be a good first run for it.

just my 2 cent, John's labor was part of why i didnt buy autofab. Camburg charged me about $1000 to install there stuff.

Keep in mind that the Camburg kit uses a shock behind the coil bucket. This makes installation of the front end kit completely different. Especially on an EFI vehicle.

I'm not going to say that Autofab isn't expensive. Their install prices are something I could never afford. But I will say this. The trucks I have seen in their shop for installs were amazing. The attention to detail was incredible. They don't just slam the kit on there and get them out the door. The work looked more like race-prep than a simple install. In case you guys don't know, GOOD race-prep is incredibly expensive.

That said, you don't have to have it installed there. There are plenty of shops down south that can do the job.

I'm thinking Fox. Is that reservoir location a problem? It looks like it may be susceptible to rocks in that location.

That kit was installed at Autofab. If it was a problem it wouldn't be there. Besides that, I think they usually put reservoir mounts on the front of the coil-bucket on the single shock kits.

You can see the mounts on this Ranger/Explorer/BII version:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/289873/fullsize/pass-side--full-droop.jpg

Broken, I don't know how hard you're going to beat on your truck, but if you're hard on it you might have issues with the radius arms. That gap between the vertical plate and the back of the beams is quite large (circled in red). Most fabricators compensate by using excessively thick upper and lower plates, but there's a better way.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/500743/fullsize/152999.jpg

yes the shock is behind the bucket, just like the one in your pic of autofab (yes i know the pics of a d35 or d29). my truck is efi what makes a shock behind a bucket so different ??? also why is the lower shock mount it the pic single shear instead of double shear

yes the shock is behind the bucket, just like the one in your pic of autofab (yes i know the pics of a d35 or d29). my truck is efi what makes a shock behind a bucket so different ???

There's a big difference between installing something like this:

http://autofab.com/Ricks%20bronco.jpg

And something like this:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/318075/fullsize/img_5072-(2).jpg


I don't know what you priced though and it really doesn't matter. The installation cost doesn't give or take from the product.

also why is the lower shock mount it the pic single shear instead of double shear

The lower shock mount is in single shear because it works and it's strong. The bolt for the lower shock mount pictured on the Explorer goes through a 1.0" O.D. .250" wall tube that is welded into two plates about 1.5" apart. You could wad the entire truck up and not break that lower mount or the bolt. I've never seen one of those mounts break but I have seen the 2 tab mounts break several times.

so a cross over (brace) between the shock towers/bucket is what you are talking about. 100% agree that installation cost doesnt take away from a product. There is more then one way to make a suspenions kit the right way. anything man made can and will fail/brake

There's a big difference between installing something like this:

http://autofab.com/Ricks%20bronco.jpg

And something like this:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/318075/fullsize/img_5072-(2).jpg




What would the travel difference be between your setup steve and the shock behind the spring?

What would the travel difference be between your setup steve and the shock behind the spring?

No difference in travel. The difference is in potential damping.

so a cross over (brace) between the shock towers/bucket is what you are talking about.

The cross brace and the the shock hoops protruding into the engine bay.

iam on the same page now. how are your fox's holding up G man

hey Steve i saw a bronco in SLO twice in the past 2 months its midnight blue and white it looked linked with glass and kings?? both times the top was off. have you seen it or know anything about it???

It might belong to ruthless69. He just bought a built Bronco & likes to roll with the top off.

The shocks are great, I just need to use them more often....

it looked like the rear floor was cut out. both times i have seen it i havnt been able to stop and check it out, looks pretty sweet thought you might know something about it and or have seen it before

No difference in travel. The difference is in potential damping.


Is this due to the increased volume of the longer shock, even though both are reservoirs?

Leverage and shaft speed make the difference. The closer the shaft speed matches that of the wheel, the better. The closer the shock is to the wheel, the easier it is to control it (the wheel). Move it further away and it requires more force (valving) to do the same job.

Think about it this way. Picking up a 33" tire/wheel is a little bit a work but certainly doable. Now put it at the end of a piece of pipe and try to pick it up. It doesn't weigh any more, but you're going to have a hell of a time getting it off the ground.

Is it necessary to replace the coil bucket or can the stock bucket be used ?

The custom coil-bucket isn't necessary, but if you want full travel or if you want to add a shock larger than 2.0", the fabricated coil-bucket is a much better foundation to work with. If you were going to build shock mounts yourself, I would say go for it. It's been done before but takes some work.

If you're not ready to step up to the custom coil-buckets you could build it with the stock buckets and dual shocks. Even that would perform much better than any "lift kit".

Would you suggest a custom bucket with dual shocks or stay with single shock ?

Go with the custom coil-bucket. It's a much stronger structure. On one of my previous trucks (Ranger) The coil-bucket started to bend upward from abuse. I've never hurt any of the fabricated coil-buckets I've owned.

The OE bucket and shock mounts will only allow about 12" of travel and make it hard to use a 2.5" shock.

We need updates from everyone in here...

Spring rates and shock valving and how they ride please!

I'm getting ready to do something and need some baselines.

http://www.mcneilracinginc.com/Ford/Bronco/92-96/

this guy has some cool stuff, more body stuff though. cheaper than autofab. he is from lemon grove but works out of T.J (Tijuana for you non-so cals), i think thats why his prices are a bit cheaper.

We need updates from everyone in here...

Spring rates and shock valving and how they ride please!

I'm getting ready to do something and need some baselines.

What are you planning on doing? I might be able to help with shock valving. Are you using a coil-over? What kind of shocks are you using?

What are you planning on doing? I might be able to help with shock valving. Are you using a coil-over? What kind of shocks are you using?

I haven't made the decision yet. I have spoken with Deaver about coils and leaves, so I know where I stand with that. Coilovers are pretty plentiful used, but they'd be way overkill for my use. This is a daily driver, no big air or high-speed whoops in the plans. And I want to keep the ride-height where it is now (+3/+1).

I'm thinking a relatively light spring rate and 2.5" shocks from F-O-A.

I haven't made the decision yet. I have spoken with Deaver about coils and leaves, so I know where I stand with that. Coilovers are pretty plentiful used, but they'd be way overkill for my use. This is a daily driver, no big air or high-speed whoops in the plans. And I want to keep the ride-height where it is now (+3/+1).

I'm thinking a relatively light spring rate and 2.5" shocks from F-O-A.

Don't let the hype fool you. A properly set up coil-bucket truck can hold its own in the rough. If you're willing to go up another inch you can use off-the-shelf coils than have been proven time and time again. You might be surprised at how well they ride too. They're not like typical "lift" springs that beat you up.

The coils are the easy part I figure...under $300 custom wound to my height from Deaver. I just want to be sure to couple them up with the right shocks without too much trial-and-error. Do I go with dual production shocks (Rancho/DoetschTech/Bilstein) or with single valveable Fox/Racerunner/FOA charged shocks? What valving works well with the Bronco?

Do I go with +1" Deaver leaves in the rear ($$$$$$), or F150 leaves and the Autofab 2-link? Shocks? Valving?

These are the questions I am pondering. It's time to make this truck handle properly, but I can't decide which setup is going to work.

The coils are the easy part I figure...under $300 custom wound to my height from Deaver.

Yeow! That's twice the price of my Autofab coils.

I just want to be sure to couple them up with the right shocks without too much trial-and-error. Do I go with dual production shocks (Rancho/DoetschTech/Bilstein) or with single valveable Fox/Racerunner/FOA charged shocks?

Definitely NOT Rancho or Doetsch Tech. The Bilsteins could work. If you're looking to save money buy a set of used 2.5" shocks. Check the Race-Dezert.com classifieds daily.

What valving works well with the Bronco?

It depends on where the shock is mounted and what you want to do with it.

Do I go with +1" Deaver leaves in the rear ($$$$$$), or F150 leaves and the Autofab 2-link?

Leaf springs that give little lift aren't going to droop very fall, so travel will be limited. I don't know if that'll be an issue for you. Like I said before, the 2-link makes a huge difference.

These are the questions I am pondering. It's time to make this truck handle properly, but I can't decide which setup is going to work.

I can appreciate what you're shooting for, but I think you might end up doing a bunch of work to get it just the way you want it and it probably won't handle quite as well as it could. I think you'd be shocked at how well my Bronco rides and handles on and off-road and it's only an inch taller than your target height.


BTW: how much money are you looking to spend overall?

You kidding about the coil price? Standard lift kit coils are ~$150, so I didn't think ~$260 from Deaver was bad at all.

I've been watching The F-O-A guys for a bit now and I'm interested in their shocks. Not final yet, but seems adequate for my application. 2.5" for about $130ea:
http://www.f-o-a.com/p-air2.jpg

I'm not after big travel, I'm shooting for proper control of the travel that I have.

As for spending, not really looking at a dollar figure as much as an effective parts list, if that makes sense. I am going to buy four springs and complimentary shocks. So whatever that costs, I'll spend.

And thanks for your input, Steve...you've been through paces and I appreciate the help. If we're in the same area sometime you can drive my truck and let me know what you think will help.

LOL, I'm not kidding about the coil price.

I've been reading about F.O.A. and the prices seem good, but If you shop around you could buy a set of used 2.5" shocks for close to the same price and have a better product.

What do you have for suspension now?

Currently I have a 2.5" Rough Country kit in front with single Bilstein 5100's. Rear is stock leaf packs with the small leaf removed and a 1" block, single Rancho RS9000's set at "2".

Yeah, it sucks.

ive been reading these pages and its quite interesting. im on a really tight budget, i cant justify spending more than 100-150 on coils, i want to level the front, plus the camber will be spot on with exactly 1.5 in of lift from where it sits now which is probably sagging after 18 years. should i get stock replacement springs (heavy duty or light from lmc70 bucks) and jbg spacers or is there a better alternative for this little lift(better ride, articulation? btw im staying with the stock radius arms, bushings are fine, and polyurethane wont help the ride im sure. people on here say nothing good about leveling kits so thats out.

i knw im not leaving alot of options, but im sure theres alot of other fellas that wanna keep their stock setup, get a better ride and some more travel

and i wish the caster was adjustable...to make it ride nice:cry

Superlift leveling coils, part #117 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Superlift-1-2-Coil-Spring-Kit-80-93-Ford-F150-Bronco_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33582QQihZ007QQi temZ170079471215

I think we're both in the wrong thread.

After much thought and discussion I have made my decision about my suspension. The whole idea of building this stock bronco into a capable prerunner on a budget has opened my eyes to how expensive the really good components and skilled labor actually cost. So I think I found something about in the middle of the road between a "lift kit" and a "long travel" suspension. www.camburg.com/ford4x4F150-P4x4.html This is the Camburg "Performance Offroad System" I will be going with. It's not the Autofab system I really wanted (and couldn't afford) but it's a nice entry package (I can afford) that I feel will work at this time. I haven't decided which shocks to use yet, I have until monday to decide that.

I'm blown away by the help that has been offered to me by the fullsizebronco family :rockon

That looks like a good option for some Camburg quality parts.

I believe the radarms are overkill for that setup (and the most expensive part). I'd consider a set of Rancho/Cepek/other radarms for $400 coupled with Camburg's beams. May take a little finesse of the mounting tabs, or they may bolt right up.

Any plans for the rear?

Extended arms, modified beams and dual shocks (mono-tube) is a solid way to go. I think it'll work well for your needs.

BTW: You can do the same with the Autofab parts for about the same price (I think) and upgrade the buckets and shocks later to increase wheel travel.

The reason for the overkill on the R- arms is for the future possibility of going to a coil over. For the rear a set of Deaver springs and a nice 2.5 shock mounted under the body is the plan.

I'm thinking about the bilstein 5100 for the front.

The reason for the overkill on the R- arms...

Good call on overkill. I can guarantee you're going to want to upgrade later.

I run 5100's on the front now and they're good. You'll definately want 2 per wheel with that setup.

But why not save up a little more and change or mod the coil bucket to run a 2.5" King, Fox, or Racerunner while you're in there? They're plentiful in the classifieds. You're going to spend a couple hundred $ on shocks that are going to be changed out.

Good call on overkill. I can guarantee you're going to want to upgrade later.

Oh yeah... If I can figure out the picture posting thing I'll put up some before pictures later today..

For the rear a set of Deaver springs and a nice 2.5 shock mounted under the body is the plan.


I'm considering a leaf-under for mine. If you're going with the 5" lift Camburg kit, then the replacement Deaver's they provide will be fine. I want to keep my ride-height lower, so a leaf-under will give me more travel.

I run 5100's on the front now and they're good. You'll definately want 2 per wheel with that setup.

But why not save up a little more and change or mod the coil bucket to run a 2.5" King, Fox, or Racerunner while you're in there? They're plentiful in the classifieds. You're going to spend a couple hundred $ on shocks that are going to be changed out.


One thing leads to another.. it snowballs into alot more $$ and will put me way over budget for now, the autofab front suspension alone is close to 4k just for parts and it doesn't stop there... it keeps growing and eventually I'd have close to 10k in just the suspension. This system should be a good starting point and leave it open to improvement in the future.

You're exactly right! I started out just wanting to match spring rate and shock valving for a decent ride, now I'm onto King dual-rates and a 70" leaf-under!

70"!?

Haven't done the measurements yet, but going under the axle will add several inches, and I can move both hangers out about 4".

I would go with the ford ranger those are sweet trucks for prerunnin'

I would go with the ford ranger those are sweet trucks for prerunnin'

Actually I have a Ranger but I can't drive it for long periods of time it's too small for me. 6'5"

Bronco Don, The camburg setup is what I have and I am very happy with it, the bilstiens work very well up front for the rear though I would seriously look into having a set of foxs built depending on what you plan on doing. When you go over their talk to Steve myself, my brother and my dad all deal with him exclusively, he will give you good info and not a sales pitch to spend more money. I am not sure what you plan on doing with the rear leaves but if you go with the deavers make sure you retain the factory wedge, I had some rear driveline vibrations without it. You should end up with a solid 13" of travel up front and the rear will flex well as well not sure of a number their but my tires are my limiting factor right now. I am running 35s and I do have some minor rub in the rear. I think you will be happy with the camburg stuff I am also a big fan of the autofab stuff as well, what I based my decision on in the end was really a matter of which shop was more convienient. They both approach the front suspension in a similiar manner and both have a great product. The nice thing with camburg is definately the upgrade factor. They will work with you later if you decide to go further. PM me if you want to get a first hand look at their stuff I dont live to far from you I am up near Lake elsinore.

After much thought and discussion I have made my decision about my suspension. The whole idea of building this stock bronco into a capable prerunner on a budget has opened my eyes to how expensive the really good components and skilled labor actually cost. So I think I found something about in the middle of the road between a "lift kit" and a "long travel" suspension. www.camburg.com/ford4x4F150-P4x4.html This is the Camburg "Performance Offroad System" ...

Good setup. Really the best part is the tuned beams. If you bought them directly from Camburg, it would cost around 600$ with a core requried. The bilstiens are terrific shocks. You will notice a difference in ride using them. The radias arms etc.. are good as well.

You'd spend 1600 for another system that has cheaper shocks and the beams are not tuned.

Have fun.

good deal don nice kit. you can always up grade to custom buckets and 2.5 shocks down the road if that what you want to do. you will be happy

I decided to go with the Camburg suspension system. Jerry treated me with great respect, just the way you would expect to be treated if you were spending 4 grand. Everyone at Camburg was very nice and helpful. I spent more time in their shop then in the office area. I have a vibration that we are trying to chase down but other than that I am very pleased.

We made our trip down to baja and followed most of the baja 1000 course all the way to Cabo San Lucas. The suspension worked fine, I would like to do something for the rear but the front worked fine for me. I didn't have any problems except for tire problems. I'll be changing out the tires from 32" to either 33's or 35's but I will not be using BFG AT's, the sidewall is too weak and I had 4 sidewall problems in baja.

All said and done thanks to everyone for their input on this. Unfortunatly I'm not done spending money on this yet, but it is good enough to prerun races at a decent speed and it looks alot better than stock.

Before Suspension :

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/530096/fullsize/bronco-004.ipg


After Suspension:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/530099/fullsize/mexcabo-049.ipg

Oh I forgot....We got lost near Mikes skyranch and had to camp out 1 night up in the mountains. The trail was very narrow and I sustained damage to both quarter panels and driverside rocker panel. It cost me $600.00 for body and paint when I got home.

If anyone is interested in seeing pictures I'll post some :rockon

That's good to hear!

I forgot to ask, what issues are you having in the back?

Looks good Don!

I forgot to ask, what issues are you having in the back?

I don't like the way the back handles the bumps. It bucks badly compared to the front, even over the small bumps like speedbumps. I have the Bilstein 5100 with new Deaver Springs. Do you think a better shock would help ?

can ya get us some pics of what the suspension looks like underneath the truck?

Leverage and shaft speed make the difference. The closer the shaft speed matches that of the wheel, the better. The closer the shock is to the wheel, the easier it is to control it (the wheel). Move it further away and it requires more force (valving) to do the same job.

Think about it this way. Picking up a 33" tire/wheel is a little bit a work but certainly doable. Now put it at the end of a piece of pipe and try to pick it up. It doesn't weigh any more, but you're going to have a hell of a time getting it off the ground.

Not trying to be picky but: Actually on TTB vehicles the further in front the shock is, the better it dampens. If you picked up on your wheel when it was off the ground you would not be able to budge it against the spring. If you ran a big pipe attached to the front of your wheel out if front of the vehichle about 5 feet you could pull up on it and lever the wheel up against the suspension. Same thing with a shock. the further in front of the tire it is, the better leverage it has and the easier it has wo work.Although, it will travel further.

Not trying to be picky but: Actually on TTB vehicles the further in front the shock is, the better it dampens.

That's why I said this:

The closer the shaft speed matches that of the wheel, the better. The closer the shock is to the wheel, the easier it is to control it (the wheel).

I don't like the way the back handles the bumps. It bucks badly compared to the front, even over the small bumps like speedbumps. I have the Bilstein 5100 with new Deaver Springs. Do you think a better shock would help ?

Moving your upper shock mounts up and using a longer shock might help even if you stick with a 5100. The longer shock will allow more droop and might help soak up the bumps better.

You could try custom valved shocks in the stock location first though. 5100s can be modified and re-valved by adding a schrader valve at the top of the shock body.

Glad to hear you got it done and were treted well, you mentioned a vibration issue? Check to see if they put the factory wedge back in under the leafs, they did not with mine and I had a problem that was cured by reinstalling the wedge. Camburg was under the impression that you did not need to reinstall it but after I spoke with gary down at deaver and the folks at camburg I purchased the factory wedge and reinstalled it and no more vibration. As far as the bucking goes I experience a bit of that as well and I have been researching this issue as well. From what I have found the problem comes from when the leafs unload, you may try a different valving up front to stiffen it up some, seems to have worked for others. Kinda of makes sense when you think about the short wheelbase and if the front dives it will cause the rear to unload. If you are hitting things hard this could greatly accelerate the unloading cuasing the bucking. One thing that I noticed after about 3 trips this seemed to be much less. I dont know if you want to attribute that to the leafs breaking in a bit or me just getting used to it. I would give it some time before you go to crazy and after talking with some of the folks on race desert that chased the same problem it seems that the front is a better place to start. While more droop would be helpful I dont see it alleviating the rapid unloading of the springs. Anyways sorry for the long post and glad to hear it is woking well for you. I know I do not regret going this route at all. Enjoy

Glad to hear you got it done and were treted well, you mentioned a vibration issue? Check to see if they put the factory wedge back in under the leafs, they did not with mine and I had a problem that was cured by reinstalling the wedge. Camburg was under the impression that you did not need to reinstall it but after I spoke with gary down at deaver and the folks at camburg I purchased the factory wedge and reinstalled it and no more vibration.

I bet that's your problem. I did the same thing on mine.

As far as the bucking goes I experience a bit of that as well and I have been researching this issue as well. From what I have found the problem comes from when the leafs unload, you may try a different valving up front to stiffen it up some, seems to have worked for others. Kinda of makes sense when you think about the short wheelbase and if the front dives it will cause the rear to unload. If you are hitting things hard this could greatly accelerate the unloading cuasing the bucking. One thing that I noticed after about 3 trips this seemed to be much less. I dont know if you want to attribute that to the leafs breaking in a bit or me just getting used to it. I would give it some time before you go to crazy and after talking with some of the folks on race desert that chased the same problem it seems that the front is a better place to start. While more droop would be helpful I dont see it alleviating the rapid unloading of the springs. Anyways sorry for the long post and glad to hear it is woking well for you. I know I do not regret going this route at all. Enjoy

The front could definitely be your problem, but modifying 4 5100s to make them rebuildable is going to be a lot of work or a lot of expense. I guess the thing to do is figure out what's happening. Is it running out of bump travel or is it just rebounding too fast.

If it is rebounding too fast, keep in mind that slow rebound valving in the front end can make the rear buck as well. Speeding up the front end rebound might alleviate your bucking issues too. The shocks on my truck (front and rear) have very little rebound valving. On (relatively) big hits the front end will push off a bump and keeps the truck level after the rear hits the same bump.

EDIT: If the wedge in the rear is missing you'll get another inch or so of travel by installing it. This might help the bucking as well.

BroncoDon, what all did you have done?

BroncoDon, what all did you have done?

In the front they "modify" cut and bend the beams, new heim radius arms, new coil springs, new dual shock coil buckets, bilstein shocks, brake lines, camber kit, limit straps, alignment.

In the rear new Deaver 10 Pack leaf Springs, Bilstein shocks, limit straps.

I just looked and the factory wedge is installed....when I say vibration it's more like I can feel the tires on the road. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel, but the whole bronco kinda rattles when going 65-70 mph, any slower and it doesn't rattle but I can feel the tires....

With the bucking, I think one of the contributing factors is the placement of the leaf springs. In the stock location, the rear of the spring is much higher than the front. This sets the natural arc of travel up and forward. Instead a smooth up-and-back (away from the obstacle) motion, the wheel is being forced into the obstacle as it moves up. Also, when the spring unloads, it's pushing the truck forward in effect. And the stock shackle position is not letting the spring work as well as it could.

The drawbacks can be minimized with shock valving as we've seen with several successful trucks here.

This is the reason I'm doing a shackle flip and spring-under. It will give the spring better leverage on the shackle and provide a better arc of travel.

The vibration may be your tires especially if you are only experiencing it at hgwy speeds.

Steve brought up a good point on rebound valving for the front that I had not thought much about. You may want to look into the fox shocks, I chose the bilsteins mainly because I didnt want to wait for fox to build the shock for the front, (I was coming home for 2 weeks from iraq and had a trip a planned) after running with this setup I will be going to a reservoir setup mainly for the rear as i have already experienced shock fade in the rear. Nothing major but I a able to run hard enough that I think the Bilstein monotubes are just getting overworked. I dont know though this last trip out I was chasing for a raace and we ended up in a situation dong about 50mph that put us off the road into a motorcycle trail with 2foot v style whoops and we survived. I was in the air on both ends repeatedly without damage, I cant really guess on actual air attained but probably around a foot or so, regardless it rattled my chain a bit.
Anyways think about steve's suggestion he has a great setup and what he suggests make sense. Let us know how it works out please as I still want to address this with mine but I need ot wait on fundage. Good luck.

My rear end is very similiar to that of Steve's minus the 2 link. I don't know if his shacles are flipped or not, but they are on mine. I am totally happy with the rear set up that i have!

I also agree with the shock valving, i think those 5100's are valved at 255/70 which may be a bit harsh for the back end.

I think Steve is running Nationals, not Deavers. Don't know the difference in rate or if there is a difference at all. No shackle flip. (from his 'daily driver/prerunner" thread)

I chose the bilsteins mainly because I didnt want to wait for fox to build the shock for the front....

Why would you have to wait to have them built? All the shocks I've ever bought have been off-the-shelf.

Like I said before, 5100 Bilsteins can be modified to be rebuildable so you can change valving.

Broken,

Did you do your shackle flip after running the deavers with stock shackle position for a while? Curious if there was much difference in handling.

Broken,

Did you do your shackle flip after running the deavers with stock shackle position for a while? Curious if there was much difference in handling.

No, it was done at the same time the deavers were put on.

Oh. Looks like they're in the stock shackles in your pic from the "Deaver packs" thread. I think a shackle flip would make a significant difference in the "bucking" the other guys are experiencing. I hope to find out soon!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/516989/fullsize/leafs40001.jpg

I am doing a prerunner build like those discussed here. I decided to use the late model F150 springs instead of the Bronco springs. They are longer and narrower so they require using F150 spring hangers and remounting them. I am using National 13 leaf race packs. I am using longer dog leg shackles and require slight trimming of the sheet metel in the fender well. This set up adds a couple of inches in travel when compared to using the Bronco leaves.

Sounds like a plush setup, gunit. Leaf under or over axle? How much lift?

Going spring under, with the springs I have it still is a couple of inches of lift over stock. Spring under solves a lot of the axle wrap problems and I want the ride height as low as possible. It does require some body/fender work to clear 35's

That's what I'm doing also. I keep thinking 35's would be best, but I know I'd have issues with the inner wells.

We messed around with my rear suspension last weekend and looks like it will be best to go back to spring over.

There are a couple of issues:

1. You lose 3" of compression travel unless you notch the frame

2. If you do notch the frame and you want to run 35's (which I do want to do) then you pretty much have to abandon all of the internal sheet metal and fab new tubs.

I really wanted to go that way for the lower ride height and better spring performance but it may be too much trouble. If I am going to do that much I would be better to go 4 link. I have already mounted the new spring hangers installed and I own the springs so it is going to be S/O for now.

Why do you lose 3" of travel?

ah, you're using springs you already have. I'll be using springs with more arch to get under the axle.

Thats not the issue, I have plenty of arc in the springs. The problem is the axle tube hitting the frame.

Spring under or over shouldn't change the axle/frame interface. That's a ride height issue.

So you're going to be +4" in the back with the Nationals and stock shackle locations?

im really wanting the camburg set-up but man whats shipping of ttb beams to them, and they kit back gonna cost. but hopefully i'll be in az next year so that a little better

im really wanting the camburg set-up but man whats shipping of ttb beams to them, and they kit back gonna cost. but hopefully i'll be in az next year so that a little better

Huh?

Huh?

Hahahaha!

I think what he meant to say is

"Camburg the wanting set-up cost gonna back beams to them, ttb shipping but man."

Hahahaha!

I think what he meant to say is

"Camburg the wanting set-up cost gonna back beams to them, ttb shipping but man."

:histerica :histerica

Is he Yoda?

i dont even know what i tried to write. wow just wow. being inchoeherent is one thing but forgetting whole words is another.

what i meant to say is i want the camburg kit, for $2080, but being that i currently live in the armpit of america, nj, id have to pay to ship the ttb beams to them, and then pay more to have the complete kit sent from camburg to nj.


again im still confused as to how i was so retarded last night

i dont even know what i tried to write. wow just wow. being inchoeherent is one thing but forgetting whole words is another.

what i meant to say is i want the camburg kit, for $2080, but being that i currently live in the armpit of america, nj, id have to pay to ship the ttb beams to them, and then pay more to have the complete kit sent from camburg to nj.


again im still confused as to how i was so retarded last night

No worries Bro! It gave us a nice little chuckle...

o i dont doubt it man, im still trying to figure out what was goin on in my head when i tried to write it tho, although it wouldnt be bad bein a little green dude with the power of the force haha

.............but being that i currently live in the armpit of america, nj

You live in the left armpit. I live in the right.

..you have that reversed i think, im on the right if you look north..at least neither of us live in florida, america's wang (daily show)

Shocks.... get some good ones. 2 spare tires on wheels. Buy BFG all terrains. Get a detroit locker for the rear end. Leave the front open. Make sure you have a decent tool kit and a decent way to jack your rig up (Hi Lift). You need to be able to do a brake job, keep the motor cool, and have plenty of fresh water to drink. Throw some snacks in, keep it real, and know your limits.... have fun!

I want to thank Don for bringing in his silver Bronco into our shop. It re-inspired me to build another bronco to pre-run in ... haha I picked up a '95 2 weeks after his left.

I'm making slow progress on it, but once I sell my '06 F-150 it will be full steam ahead. Plus its river season .. haha

I'll keep you guys posted.

Here are some of parts I plan on using and/or have now .....

Camburg 4" wider trussed i-beams
Camburg heim radius arms
4" lift coil springs
FOX, SAW or Bilstein shocks
Hannemann front fiberglass fenders and hood
AutoFab rear fiberglass quarter panels
AutoFab 5.8L motor mounts
Southwest Performance swing-set steering kit
Culhane built E4OD tranny with Winters gate shifter
Deaver F-150 leaf springs with custom longer shackles
Dirt-Tech 9" full floater rear end with Camburg 2.25" hubs (5.13 gears)
KMC 17" beadlock wheels
BFG 37" project KR race tires

- Scott @ Camburg

Here are some pics so far .......

http://www.desertrides.com/forum/files/bronco_web_212.jpg
http://www.mxcmotorsports.com/misc/fender_1.jpg

I want to thank Don for bringing in his silver Bronco into our shop. It re-inspired me to build another bronco to pre-run in ... haha I picked up a '95 2 weeks after his left.

I'm making slow progress on it, but once I sell my '06 F-150 it will be full steam ahead. Plus its river season .. haha

I'll keep you guys posted.

Here are some of parts I plan on using and/or have now .....

Camburg 4" wider trussed i-beams
Camburg heim radius arms
4" lift coil springs
FOX, SAW or Bilstein shocks
Hannemann front fiberglass fenders and hood
AutoFab rear fiberglass quarter panels
AutoFab 5.8L motor mounts
Southwest Performance swing-set steering kit
Culhane built E4OD tranny with Winters gate shifter
Deaver F-150 leaf springs with custom longer shackles
Dirt-Tech 9" full floater rear end with Camburg 2.25" hubs (5.13 gears)
KMC 17" beadlock wheels
BFG 37" project KR race tires

- Scott @ Camburg

Here are some pics so far .......

http://www.desertrides.com/forum/files/bronco_web_212.jpg
http://www.mxcmotorsports.com/misc/fender_1.jpg

Hey no fair.... You guys updated your website with pics of my bronco last year after I had it in the shop, where is the love :cry

Sounds like a nice build scott, I need to get back down to talk to you guys a it on the rear setup, and i am stil considering the extended beams as well. I am just having a hard time convincing myself i need them. Since I put your stuff in the bronco keeps surprising me at what it can take. I do need to get limit staps on it though especially in the rear. Anyways keep us posted and thanks for excellent product.:beer

Welcome to FSB.com Scott. It's good to see more desert people here. I don't know if I've ever seen a Southwest Performance steering kit. Any pics?

Polar cub, what do you have in the rear now?

I want to thank Don for bringing in his silver Bronco into our shop. It re-inspired me to build another bronco to pre-run in ... haha I picked up a '95 2 weeks after his left.

I'm making slow progress on it, but once I sell my '06 F-150 it will be full steam ahead. Plus its river season .. haha

I'll keep you guys posted.

Here are some of parts I plan on using and/or have now .....

Camburg 4" wider trussed i-beams
Camburg heim radius arms
4" lift coil springs
FOX, SAW or Bilstein shocks
Hannemann front fiberglass fenders and hood
AutoFab rear fiberglass quarter panels
AutoFab 5.8L motor mounts
Southwest Performance swing-set steering kit
Culhane built E4OD tranny with Winters gate shifter
Deaver F-150 leaf springs with custom longer shackles
Dirt-Tech 9" full floater rear end with Camburg 2.25" hubs (5.13 gears)
KMC 17" beadlock wheels
BFG 37" project KR race tires

- Scott @ Camburg

Here are some pics so far .......

http://www.desertrides.com/forum/files/bronco_web_212.jpg
http://www.mxcmotorsports.com/misc/fender_1.jpg

Welcome aboard! It's great to have an industry guy here. Please start a build thread, we'd all like to follow along with what you're doing!

I don't know if I've ever seen a Southwest Performance steering kit. Any pics?

Ditto...

Welcome, I bought your guys 4" over trussed beams a year ago and almost ready to see some dirt in my Bronco(hopefully)

Here's a Link to my build havent tested the beams or the single swing set steering but maybe something you would look into...

http://www.functionfirstfabrication.com/relph_bronco.html

Welcome aboard! It's great to have an industry guy here. Please start a build thread, we'd all like to follow along with what you're doing!

X2. Welcome Scott! Does the build have anything to do with schooling an FJ40?

SteveG right now I am just running a set of deavers with bilstien 5100s in the rear, I am considering the 2 link setup like your running. My biggest issue is axle wrap I am pretty happy with the way it performs now but I think the rear can be better. I wont be doing anything for a little bit though I need to rebuild the piggy bank. I know you are running the autofab 2 link and really like it alot.

Welcome Scott..
-Griffin

Hi Scott, that looks like a nice bronco to start out with. Im on an official parts that people want to use list! So cool. Their is a pic of the latest rendition of my swingset steering on the first page of the skidplate thread in this broncospeed forum to. Let me know if theres anything else I can help you out with besides that.

http://www.functionfirstfabrication.com/images/bronco_jan_2_._07_005.jpg

wow shaner...big project

dc

Hi guys, Chris with FOA Shocks here. I see we have had numerous hits on our website coming from this thread, so I thought I'de pop in and say hello.
As many of you know, we are new to the off-road shock world. We are basically trying to offer a quality shock at a lower price than most. Shock don't have to cost as much as many companies sell them for.
Anyway, feel free to ask me any questions. If I can help, I will. Thanks for looking at us, CHRIS

Thanks for checking in, Chris. Some of us have been watching your thread on RDC also. Keep up the good service.

Thanks for checking in, Chris. Some of us have been watching your thread on RDC also. Keep up the good service.

Thanks. We are working on new stuff daily. We've upgraded our coilovers to have our billet lower rod end at no extra cost. We'll have an optional billet upper end very soon.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/269162/DBWXN-billetends002.jpg

Throw the 4 wheel drive away and go long travel 2 wheel drive. Borrow jig from Mike Smith at Terrible Herbst and build i-beam/radius arm copy,build cage and put in 460 and go have fun.

Hi guys, Chris with FOA Shocks here. I see we have had numerous hits on our website coming from this thread, so I thought I'de pop in and say hello.
As many of you know, we are new to the off-road shock world. We are basically trying to offer a quality shock at a lower price than most. Shock don't have to cost as much as many companies sell them for.
Anyway, feel free to ask me any questions. If I can help, I will. Thanks for looking at us, CHRIS
Hey Chris, if you know J.C. Ray ask him about his 79 Bronco he had, fastest truck I've ever been in

Throw the 4 wheel drive away and go long travel 2 wheel drive. Borrow jig from Mike Smith at Terrible Herbst and build i-beam/radius arm copy,build cage and put in 460 and go have fun.

Why throw the 4wd away???

And i'm sure that guys at Terrible Herbst are just itchin to loan out their jigs:rofl:

Throw the 4 wheel drive away and go long travel 2 wheel drive. Borrow jig from Mike Smith at Terrible Herbst and build i-beam/radius arm copy,build cage and put in 460 and go have fun.

Huh???

I borrowed it for my F100, no biggie. It's not what you know it's who you know.

Umm, ok.

Umm, ok.

x2

i must be slow i just saw broncospeed, better slow then not finding it at all.

Hey Chris, if you know J.C. Ray ask him about his 79 Bronco he had, fastest truck I've ever been in

Yup, good friends with JC. That's one of the trucks he built with Kem Park back in their "Let race Baja in a truck!" days.
We are tossing around the idea of moving the FOA shock facility to Ridgecrest, and JC is interested in doing the machining/assembly.

First step into extending the i-beams ..........

http://www.mxcmotorsports.com/misc/web.jpg

right on scott, its nice to you getting back into broncos. keep us posted on your project. hopefuly you and burg will come out with more trick stuff for TTB LT which myself and others are looking forward to.

P.S. i have burg stuff now and love it keep up the great work at Burg

We just got a review on our coilovers from JeepsUnlimited.com. Check it out... http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/mambo2/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=98&Itemid=26
The Jeep/rockcrawler market is our largest by a looong shot. Funny, since we all come from a desert background, and didn't put much thought into the Jeep guys when this was all going together

Will the camburg fiberglass fenders fit a 95 bronco?

Will the camburg fiberglass fenders fit a 95 bronco?

Camburg does not make Glass.

Those that do are,

Autofab
Glassworks
Perry's fab-n-fiber
Mcneil racing
Hanneman
Fiberwerx

check out giantmotorsports.com they have some really nice ttb stuff as well as 2wd beams. also you can buy the fox air shocks instead of coils, 16" travel for about 350 per corner with the air shock for hight and a gas fox for dampening. Im pretty sure this is how im going to set up my '94. plus its all easily adjustable

It's not a good idea to use air shocks for the main spring, particularly on a daily driver. If a seal goes bad you are screwed. The air shocks work well and are popular on tube frame rock buggies but they require constant attention. I have a friend who is using them on a rock buggy but he sets the ride height and spring rate before every run.

Worked on the i-beams some more tonight and picked these up over the weekend .... new 37" BFG Project KR race tires.

http://www.mxcmotorsports.com/misc/bfg.jpg

Scott, I just noticed your posts, :doh0715: Welcome. I haven't checked in much lately I've been at the river but now it's monsoon season and I'm home for awhile....thanks for the nice work you guys did on my Bronco!!! I'm anxious to see everything you do to yours...my next project looks like it may be a 4 seater kinda like Jerry's car.

My KMC beadlocks came in today, and I should have the short beam done tomorrow ... and who said extending & trussing 4wd beams was easy ... haha

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/kmc.jpg

It's not a good idea to use air shocks for the main spring, particularly on a daily driver. If a seal goes bad you are screwed. The air shocks work well and are popular on tube frame rock buggies but they require constant attention. I have a friend who is using them on a rock buggy but he sets the ride height and spring rate before every run.

yes these are intended for buggies and light weight rigs. something on the street or traveling through the desert at speed are going to nuke those shocks by getting hot since there is no resi on them. stick with coilovers.

Got the short 4wd i-beam done finally.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/shrtbeam_2.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/shrtbeam.jpg

looks great

Got the driver-side beam done last night and picked up AutoFab rear fiberglass that I'm gonna attempt to install this weekend.

- Scott

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam_2.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam.jpg

I borrowed it for my F100, no biggie. It's not what you know it's who you know.

Dezracer, Rosemead don't exist anymore, its Mo Valley!:histerica

Got the driver-side beam done last night and picked up AutoFab rear fiberglass that I'm gonna attempt to install this weekend.

- Scott

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam_2.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam.jpg


Nice work Scott! I envy your skills. Do you handle most of the Camburg beams yourself, or is there a team of fabbers? Do you ever do 1 to 1 1/2 over beams for the Class 3 guys?

How about starting a new thread on your build so we can watch the progress?

Brian

Got the beadlock rings back from anodize so I spent 4 hours mounting all my rims and tires. 37" projects aren't fun to mount by yourself ... haha

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/kmc_2.jpg

by yourself??? shouldn't you get jerry to do that kind of stuff???




Got the beadlock rings back from anodize so I spent 4 hours mounting all my rims and tires. 37" projects aren't fun to mount by yourself ... haha

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/kmc_2.jpg

Got the driver-side beam done last night...

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam_2.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/lngbeam.jpg

Those are beautiful!! Please create a new thread for this build and link it to this'n. I go to work and motivate myself with the thought that one day I'll be able to place parts like these under my '95 F150. ...or if Camburg would like a mild-build poster truck in Utah, my base paint is already black! :D

Last week I got the AutoFab rear fenders on Project Prerunner Bronco. The fit and finish on these is really nice. The install wasnt all that bad, just time consuming laying out all the cut lines. I pretty much did it like the AutoFab website but added a few more tabs to make it a little more secure. I still need to make a few tweaks and add a couple more mounts. I'm also gonna glass the fuel door in and mount one of those Fuel Safe aircraft style locking gas caps. This weekend all the suspension goes on! Not looking forward to putting it on .. haha

- Scott

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/rear_1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/rear_2.jpg

Looking good Scott. They look great with the stock rear bumper!:toothless

I look forward to the pictures and comments, a lot!

BTW, I emailed Camburg's sales email on the 11th and I still haven't heard back, do you know how long replies usually take?

Usually all emails are answered next day. We've had some email server issues receiving and sending emails lately though. Forward it to me direct and I'll answer it or PM me it here. Thanks for all the compliments guys!

scott@camburg.com

Last nights progress .........

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/tear_1.jpg
http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd13/camburg/tear_2.jpg

Oh man, jack stands? You guys don't use lifts?

nice progress scott i guess it helps working at camburg. will camburg produce a swing steering kit in the future?

Usually all emails are answered next day. We've had some email server issues receiving and sending emails lately though.
Thanks, but Drew got back to me today. Your truck's progress is inspirational, keep it up.

nice progress scott i guess it helps working at camburg. will camburg produce a swing steering kit in the future?
If it was priced well I'd be a buyer. Superlift's Superrunner kit needs to be a little more durable and be "swingset" (inner joints from tie rods on the same line as their respective beam's joint to the frame). The Superrunner seems far overpriced for the parts too.

Steve no lifts for us, we did buy stock in jackstands though .. haha

Blueblood ... no plans for Camburg 4x4 steering, just not enough demand to R&D and sell it. I'm actually planning on getting Mark @ Southwest Performance's swing-set steering kit on it soon though.

Well I put 35 hours into the Bronco this weekend (fri nite-sun) and I'm running on fumes now. I'll get some pics and details up tomorrow. Still have a few loose ends to deal with in the next couple of days.

- Scott

Steve no lifts for us, we did buy stock in jackstands though .. haha

LOL. Tell me you're at least using an air chisel on the frame rivets!

Seriously though, you guys need to invest in a lift or two. The time saved is well worth the expense. I've done plenty of installs like yours on the ground and I know it's a pain in the butt. Especially by yourself. The last install (on my Bronco) was at work on a lift and man what a difference. As far as I can see the amount of work involved in installing your front end and what I've got is roughly the same. Between two of us we had the truck back on the ground and ready to align in 6 hours and that included installing the rear leaves and 2-link. Granted, the guy helping me is a professional mechanic and I'm no slouch, but I can assure you that would not have happened if it had been on the ground.

Now go sell it to Jerry.:thumbup

Moto does southwest performance have a web site (i seach but found nothing) i am looking forward to see pics of it on your truck.

So what kind of shafts do you run in those extended/wide beams?

I don't know if this is the kit, but it's on Mark's Bronco.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/522744/fullsize/pc210047.jpg

Scott, when are you going to start your own thread? This build isn't what most would call "...on a budget":toothless

i must be slow who is mark? what does the rest of his bronc look like?

I've got a few other things to take care of but I'm planning on having Jack @ CTM machine me new longer axles soon.

Steve I started up my own thread ... and for the record, yes I'm on a budget .. haha

- Scott

.......Blueblood ... no plans for Camburg 4x4 steering, just not enough demand to R&D and sell it. I'm actually planning on getting Mark @ Southwest Performance's swing-set steering kit on it soon though......

- Scott

Scott, Do you have a link or information on Southwest Performance?

Thanks
Brian

Pmed you info Fathom

I don't know if this is the kit, but it's on Mark's Bronco.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/522744/fullsize/pc210047.jpg

I would love to see more details about this steering setup.:thumbup

I would love to see more details about this steering setup.:thumbup

Me too but all he does is tease us and send info through PM.:toothless

I would love to see more details about this steering setup as well


maybe this is the site ???

http://www.functionfirstfabrication.com/bronco_steering.html

I would love to see more details about this steering setup as well


maybe this is the site ???

http://www.functionfirstfabrication.com/bronco_steering.html

Actually, I believe it's going to be www.southwestperformance.net, but Mark hasn't got that ready yet. F3 does have a similar set-up though.

if you are going with coilovers or of course long trvel shocks BTF makes some nice hoops for a fairly cheap price. as for the cage cage it yourself.

i would go through giantmotorsports.com or auto fab. my brother bent a set of camburg knuckles on his ranger. im thinking about doing mine the same way and im leaning towards giants parts.