Today I checked my front suspension because I wanted to do an alignment to my truck. The front tires seem a little bit loose (up and down from the side). Which might be the possible reason of this problem, warn locks, bearings, or both?

Today I checked my front suspension because I wanted to do an alignment to my truck. The front tires seem a little bit loose (up and down from the side). Which might be the possible reason of this problem, warn locks, bearings, or both?

sounds more like bearing my wheels didn't move at all like that even without my warn hubs on

I would say that it would be worn bearings. This is a pretty easy fix me and 78project did one a couple weeks ago.

I would check the retaining nuts first to make sure that they were torqued properly and that the lock ring was installed properly if it was installed at all. If the retaining nuts are loose, then I would check the bearings to make sure they haven't been damaged.

Agree with you ziggy, but if there is alot of slop in the tire I would be that the bearing our scrap. Also if you are tearing into all that you might as well replace bearings and seals just to increase life span.

Check your balljoints also...

thanks, so it must be the bearings if not then the ball joints and finaly something having to do with my warn locks..

thanks, so it must be the bearings if not then the ball joints and finaly something having to do with my warn locks..

I really don't think it has anything to do with your warn locks, the only thing the locks do is lock the hub to the axle so they have nothing to do with your wheel haveing any play. If your wheel has wiggle movement in all directions when off the groud then its your bearings. if its only moving in one direction then it maybe suspension.

:stupid

locks have nothing to do with wheel play

When i bought my rig, i tore into the hubs to replace them, as the old ones were trashed. The PO had replaced wheel bearings sometime ago, and removed the pin in the locking ring. Basically it was useless. I bought a new set from Central 4x4 along with my hubs. I also did the wheel bearings, though they looked fine.

I already bought the bearings, sometime this weekend I'll get them changed because I dont have that special tool to remove the holding special brace and I dont want to remove it by hammering it out with a screwdriver.

Special brace????? All you should need that is out of the norm is the special socket for the bearing retaining nut. Cost about $20.00 at auto parts store or you may be able to rent one.

I got a real nice bearing socket thingie from Napa for $35.00 works perfectly for the spindle lock nut and the bearing adjusting nut.

and remember when you lock them you torq the inside on to 50lb and the outer on to about 160 - 200lbs (atleast for my 95, might be diff for yours)

when i first started to do this i didnt do it right and the bearings broke and distroyed my spindle

Oh and REPLACE the bearing racers...you will probably have to bring the rotor/hub assembly to a shop to have them pressed out/in. If you dont replace the racers then the bearings will sit to far into them and when y ou torque the nuts down, the wheel wont spin freely and cause overheating.

Oh and REPLACE the bearing racers...you will probably have to bring the rotor/hub assembly to a shop to have them pressed out/in. If you dont replace the racers then the bearings will sit to far into them and when y ou torque the nuts down, the wheel wont spin freely and cause overheating.

You can knock them out yourself with a punch. Then knock the new ones in carefully with a brass punch.

Special brace????? All you should need that is out of the norm is the special socket for the bearing retaining nut. Cost about $20.00 at auto parts store or you may be able to rent one.

I got mine from checkers for 22

Oh and REPLACE the bearing racers...you will probably have to bring the rotor/hub assembly to a shop to have them pressed out/in. If you dont replace the racers then the bearings will sit to far into them and when y ou torque the nuts down, the wheel wont spin freely and cause overheating.

Me and Jim 78project did this the other day and we pressed them in ourselves slowly with hammer. To pull them out it is a pain but we used a large punch and slowly worked them out.

Me and Jim 78project did this the other day and we pressed them in ourselves slowly with hammer. To pull them out it is a pain but we used a large punch and slowly worked them out.

Thats what i do but i put the old one ontop so not to ruin the new one.

Thats what i do but i put the old one ontop so not to ruin the new one.

That is kind of what we did.

when all else fails i think you can rent the race removal tool thingy from an auto parts store also if needed :thumbup

Also Harbor Freight has the ball joint removal tool for cheap if you are wanting to tear in that far. I can't remember but it was 50 dollars or less.

I think the bearings and seals will make the job done, and I got the new warn locks because the old ones are busted and full rust. Maybe I'll send the old ones to a Warn dealer because they are supposed to be guaranteed for life.