E40d getting really hot. TQ slipping? or need more cooling? [Archive] - FSB Forums

: E40d getting really hot. TQ slipping? or need more cooling?


otee453
04-29-2007, 02:01 AM
I had my e40d belch out hot fluid through the front seal while pulling my boat from Denver to Topeka. I had the seal replaced and it has held fine. I put a temp gauge on the tranny fluid "OUT" line and am getting high temps on both highway and town driving (210 f.+). On my first highway test, the tranny did fine on temp at first, but it finally climbed to 210 degrees. I slowed down to get off the highway and the sucker shot up to 250 degrees. That was the precise scenario when my front seal went (slowing down to pull off the off-ramp). Other than running way too hot, the tranny operates and shifts like it always has and has no apparent problems. The mechanic I had change the seal said the TC had a little blue heat discoloration. Pump was good and no other problems he could see,, just that the TC had gotten hot.

I have the factory towing package with a small factory cooler (in addition to the radiator heat exchanger). I've made no mods to the tranny other than the new temp gauge.

I think it could be 2 things,,,
1. Factory tarnny fluid cooler is not passing the fluid through real well and needs to be cleared out or replaced. If replaced I will use a much bigger cooler.
2. The TC is slipping continuosly creating way more than the usual heat and the current setup can't keep things cool.

My rig has 150k miles on it, I'm pushing 33" tires with a 3:55 gears (I know, way lean on the gears).

Any ideas and tips for checking these things and getting my temps down to where they need to be? If something (like the TC) is going out causing it to get way to hot, I want to fix that, not just "treat the heat".

SigEpBlue
04-29-2007, 02:50 AM
Both scenarios could be occurring, but I'd suggest pulling codes from your PCM to determine if it's seeing the torque converter slip. The check engine light will NOT illuminate if a TCC-related code is stored, so go ahead and pull them. Click here if you need to know how. (http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13) If a TCC code does come up, I'd go through the trouble of verifying it's actually the converter and not the TCC solenoid or another problem. Usually, you can do this with your tachometer, a little math, and a DVOM.

I'd suggest getting a larger aftermarket cooler; get the largest one you can afford, and also get an inline filter.

Bronco4Life
04-29-2007, 07:58 AM
If your TC is slipping heavily, you'd know. If you push down on the gas at highway speed, you'd see a decent little increase in rpm, with only a slight increase in mph to match it. When your TC is locked, at highway speed, you should see a 1:1 increase in engine speed and road speed, know what I mean?

What Sig said with the cooler and filter too...

I put a B&M 36,000 GVR cooler in my truck, and the fluid is controlled with a fluid thermostat, and I've never seen it go above 190 even during hard wheeling with the TC continuously unlocked.

96broncoman
04-29-2007, 08:56 AM
chances are you should get an aftermarket cooler anyways.

otee453
04-29-2007, 11:11 AM
Well, I pulled my codes. "617" & "628". <1-2 shift error> and <converter clutch lock-up error>

I guess I'll try and find the info on testing the TC solenoid. I seemed to think it was the TC because it just didn't seem to be locking up ENOUGH on the highway. I would get very few (50 - 100) RPM's increase off the tach when I tapped the brake. That didn't seem like enough to me.

Any tips on where to go from here other than testing the solenoid?
I do plan on doing the whole big cooler and external filter modifications as stated by everyone. I need to get this TC working properly first.

otee453
04-30-2007, 09:22 AM
Well, here's an update.

My tranny is slipping really bad when I hooked up my boat (boat's not that heavy). It's slipping in 2nd gear and reverse will not hardly move at all. Only when I have my boat hooked up, the truck drives fine light.

Looks like a $2,000 piece of hardware is in my very near future. LOL.
The codes are the same as before. I'll do some looking for a new tranny in Topeka today.

abra
04-30-2007, 10:38 AM
if you go to kcmo. check out BRB transmission. they do have a good warrenty. nation wide. 1yr

all my stuf gets done there. my bronco has 180,000 on the one they built for it.

cost 2200.00

otee453
04-30-2007, 03:25 PM
Thanks for the input.
It seems that the best place in town is Topeka Tranny. The offroad truck center in town recommended the place highly, so did the guys at a couple different Napa's and Carquest shops. A rebuild on the e4od is anywhere from $1600 to $2400 depending on what all needs to be replaced in the tranny. That includes updating the tranny to the latest specs, parts, a new TC and doing all the install work. They have a 24 month warantee.

A Ford factory rebuilt is about $2200 with tax. I'd have to do the install (or pay someone to do it), Ford has a 3 year, 75k mile warrantee.

I think I'm going to trust the work Topeka tranny does, with the good rep they have and all.

SigEpBlue
04-30-2007, 03:28 PM
Make sure they install a new torque converter when they replace the transmission. It should be included, but it'd be good to check. I'd hate to see you dump that much $$$ into it, then have to drop it again because of a failed torque converter clutch.

Bronco4Life
04-30-2007, 06:25 PM
And do yourself a favor too, have them toss in a nice shift kit, like the TransGo one, and DEFINITELY do the filter/cooler.

otee453
04-30-2007, 09:42 PM
Make sure they install a new torque converter when they replace the transmission. It should be included, but it'd be good to check. I'd hate to see you dump that much $$$ into it, then have to drop it again because of a failed torque converter clutch.

Yep, I made sure to ask that it was included in the price, it was.

The shift kit sounds good too. The parts for the filter and bigger cooler are already on order.