See bottom of this post for bill of materials as the project progresses
I'm building my current Bronco as a pre-runner/chase rig, but it will closely emulate my Class 3 build. The suspension and track width will be the same, the cage will be SCORE legal, it will get-it-on in the whoops and drive very similar to the racer. The difference is, it will have A/C and carpet along with other creature comforts. It will also be on a working man's budget. Not TT quality, but quite a ride.


So, to get this started, I've dumped the ol' bent steel fake beadlocks for some Champion's based off of the American Racing Outlaw wheel. I like the retro, grass roots look. After speaking with a few Class 3 racers, I also decided to stick with 15 x 8's rather than bumping to 17's. Cost becomes a factor when you've got to have multiple back-ups for racing (as an amateur).

Rapid progress pictures.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/514002/fullsize/new-tire-and-wheels4.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/602067/fullsize/img_0203.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/620169/fullsize/img_0404.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/645979/fullsize/img_0788.jpg




http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/514003/fullsize/new-tire-and-wheels5.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/514004/fullsize/new-tire-and-wheels6.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/514005/fullsize/new-tire-and-wheels7.jpg

Next, I purchased some TTB beams and factory pivots from Steve83 and senthen sent them out to be sandblasted. I'm going to cut and turn them, lengthen them 1 1/2" per side, truss them and install 1" Uniballs in the pivots. Rules allow 2" per side, but because the wheels are 8" versus the factory 7.5", it takes away another 1/4" per side. It's going to be close and I don't want to push it right to the edge.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/506825/fullsize/ttb-bundle.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/506826/fullsize/ttb-bundle2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515095/fullsize/blasted-arms.jpg


Now, I was going to just fab my own radius arms, but I came across these new Camburgs on RDC for $750 with a 2.5" x 16" King coilover. The cost of Cromoly, heims and F911's alone would cost me about $350-$400, so I opted to go the less time consuming route. These are good, strong and actually quite light weight arms.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/513169/fullsize/radius-arms.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515096/fullsize/heims.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515097/fullsize/king-coilover.jpg

I'll post up as the project progresses. There's alot involved when you're building to go-fast in the dirt. Safety is #1 and the cagework will take me some time, not to mention about $2000 in materials alone.- Before I can cycle 16" of travel in the front, I've got to get fenders installed. The rear will be done as well, because I intend on putting in a 40 spline spooled, FF Cone high 9 in the rear with the same track as the front. There's a long, long to do list and it's going to be fun, albeit slow the whole way through.


Below are most expenses accrued since beginning this thread:



Champion 15x8 beadlocks: $1250
Toyo Open Country M/T 35x13.5: $800
Camburg radius arms w/pivot brackets: $600
Used TTB beams w/factory pivot brackets: $85
Sandblasting TTB beams/brackets .75hrs: $65
Mason Motorsports TTB beams: $300 (used w/core)
Front bumper materials, the skidplate and powder coat: $420
3 Hella 4000 lights with harness: $420
Super Duty poly motor mounts: $120 from JBG
1" Uniballs, cups and misalignment spacers: $190
Glassworks 3" flare front fenders: $300
Autofab 3" flare rear quarters: $120
Deaver F53 11 leaf race packs: $300
4 limit straps: $40
Autofab fender buttons (30): $100
Front extended brakelines: $105
Cut and extended front passenger's inner axle: $150 from Solo Motorsports
Limit strap clevis' (4): $130
Delrin shackle bushings (4): $30
Sterling rear end with 9" big bearing outers, Detroit locker, 4:56 gears, Superior 35 spline axles, Wilwood 12.19" solid rotor disc brakes with Draglite II 4 piston calipers; Spirit Racing 2 link, King Race Series 3.0" x 12" 3 tube bypasses, Mastercraft double/triple limit straps: $3200 (used)
Machine rear axles for 5/8" screw-in studs, w/studs: $120
Desert Specialties custom lug nuts: $60
ICOM F121 race radio with 3G antenna: $370
Maxxim 42 LED Amber with connectors/wire: $45
Moroso sheetmetal aluminum transmission pan: $165
Transgo shift kit: $130
Flowmaster single chamber race muffler, 3 in/3 out: $100 installed
Trans, T case skidplate materials and powder coat: $220
Powdercoat radius arms: $120
Power steering cooler w/lines: $65

TOTAL = $10,120 as of 08/09/2008 (add 10% to total for all of those little things I forget about)

Looks nice. I wish i had the money to do something like this.

whats happening with that stack-o-tires in the garage?
race spares...hahahaha

whats happening with that stack-o-tires in the garage?
race spares...hahahaha

I thought he was keeping them on hand for you...i'm just saying. :rofl:

whats happening with that stack-o-tires in the garage?
race spares...hahahaha

Those are for sale. ;)

I'll be following along with this thread. Looks like it will be a badass project!

:stupid

this looks like its gonna be a sweet build.

I agree on this is cool.
I would be interested in seeing a price list as of so far and in the future too. I would like to do this to mine someday as you don't see them driving around here and the mudding thing doesn't really to it for me eithier

would be interested in seeing a price list as of so far and in the future too.

Maybe on the first post of the build, keep a running total....update as parts/labor is added...

Chase

i'll be lookin in on this too, but just a quick q, what size heims are those..they look huge

I've got to get fenders installed

No white fenders!!!!

J/K, you know I'll be keeping tabs on this thing.....................

Awesome! You gonna get pretty in-depth with the modifications to the ttb arms? Thats one thing that i've never really been able to find out much about.

Also, your retaining the 4wd functionality right?

Maybe on the first post of the build, keep a running total....update as parts/labor is added...

Chase

Good idea. I'll do that.

i'll be lookin in on this too, but just a quick q, what size heims are those..they look huge

1 1/4" heims. The arms are made of 1 3/4" tubing....for comparison.

Awesome! You gonna get pretty in-depth with the modifications to the ttb arms? Thats one thing that i've never really been able to find out much about.

Also, your retaining the 4wd functionality right?

I'll post all of the mods as I go. The intent will be to provide enough info so other fabbers can do it themselves. And yes, it wouldn't be a Bronco without 4wd. :thumbup Class 3 is a 4wd class. I wouldn't want 2wd in those silt beds in Baja anyway.

this looks like it will be an awesome project, and i look forward to how it turns out!

lookin bad ass . i like the look of it already. cant wait to see the finished project.

i have heard on some people having bearing issues with the 40 spline shaft in non full float setups. They say that the bearing life is greatly reduced going to 40 spine rather than 35 spline. No actual experience with it hear, but thought i would relay this info to you.

i like those sliders where did u get those or did u build them?

i like those sliders where did u get those or did u build them?

Yup, those are mine. Sliders (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=81984&highlight=sliders)

You know what? It doesnt cost as much as I thought it would.

Yikkesbb, it looks like you have a nice project in the works, you will like the camburg radius arms I have been very happy with mine. I am pulling 13'' of travel right now and debating if another 3'' is going to be worth the money. First I need to spend money and time on the rear setup, seriously considering autofabs 2 link setup, currently I get a ton of axle wrap other than that I am running through the rough pretty stron. I need to get a cage done soon as well. I just got new seats still waiting on beard to provide the subsections though, but that is another story. Anyways I just wanted to add my 2 cents and say it looks good, on a side note are you building your sliders for customers yet? I saw in the slider thread you were considering it at one point. If you are I would be interested in talking to you about a set. It sounds like you will be busy though. Anyways good luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Yikkesbb, it looks like you have a nice project in the works, you will like the camburg radius arms I have been very happy with mine. I am pulling 13'' of travel right now and debating if another 3'' is going to be worth the money. First I need to spend money and time on the rear setup, seriously considering autofabs 2 link setup, currently I get a ton of axle wrap other than that I am running through the rough pretty stron. I need to get a cage done soon as well. I just got new seats still waiting on beard to provide the subsections though, but that is another story. Anyways I just wanted to add my 2 cents and say it looks good, on a side note are you building your sliders for customers yet? I saw in the slider thread you were considering it at one point. If you are I would be interested in talking to you about a set. It sounds like you will be busy though. Anyways good luck and keep us posted on the progress.

Let's plan to meet at the Lucerne race in June!

No problem I will be heading out on Fri morning to set up our main pit, we will be setting up out of check 2 right at bessemer I will be the white bronco, when are you headed out?

No problem I will be heading out on Fri morning to set up our main pit, we will be setting up out of check 2 right at bessemer I will be the white bronco, when are you headed out?

I'll probably just go for the day this time, Sat. I'll post up when it gets closer to work out a meeting time/place.

Sounds good, you are aware that it will be a 4pm start for this one right? I will keep an eye out for you as we get closer.

Are you going to cut and turn those beams yourself or get Camburg or someone do it?

Are you going to cut and turn those beams yourself or get Camburg or someone do it?

I'm fabbing them myself. Camburg gets $1800. I can do it for a little less. :toothless

I'm fabbing them myself. Camburg gets $1800. I can do it for a little less. :toothless

The wide ones are. The "standard" ones were $550.

The wide ones are. The "standard" ones were $550.

Uhm...he's going wider. So the price for the "wide ones" would apply.

Uhm...he's going wider. So the price for the "wide ones" would apply.

Ummm... I guess I missed it because I did see him mention who he was going to get do his custom axles. I think the Camburgs "wide" are more the 1.25" on each side anyway.

Ummm... I guess I missed it because I did see him mention who he was going to get do his custom axles. I think the Camburgs "wide" are more the 1.25" on each side anyway.

Naw, I think I was speaking of the rearend. But anyway, Camburg's are 4-4 1/2 over per side. Baja Racing Products makes a set that is 1 1/2 per side for $900 including the longer passenger side axle, but their method puts the center section closer to the frame, so up-travel will be lost. Mine will require all of the work that the Camburg beams do, plus the $1k 300m axles.

Another part of my TTB build will be the swing set steering........no more bumpsteer. :thumbup

. . . the $1k 300m axles.

Another part of my TTB build will be the swing set steering........no more bumpsteer. :thumbup

Who makes those axles, are the custom to order? Last time I priced custom 300m axles it was nearly $3k for a set which is why I abandoned the cut & turned route.

Of course not gas prices are kicking my ass so I may just get back into bikes. :duh

This isn't the kind of update I was planning on, but......both of my beams cracked in the typical places. Rather than just weld up the crack, I decided to modify the passenger side to prevent it from happening again. Fortunately I have the other set of beams to utilize for making templates. The pic below shows the first piece fitted on the spare beam.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/518259/fullsize/pass-backplate.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/518260/fullsize/pass-backplate2.jpg

Unfortunately, I didn't take step by step pictures, but below is the end result under the Bronco. It's far from pro quality, but given all the work was done while laying under the rig, it's as good as it's going to get. Should be plenty strong.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/518261/fullsize/quick-repair-on-pass-arm.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/518262/fullsize/quick-repair-on-pass-arm2.jpg

Looks good. Did you end up adding more than one plate to the open area of the beam?

Looks good. Did you end up adding more than one plate to the open area of the beam?

There are actually three pieces. I had to splice a small piece to carry the bottom radius out to the end and then another plate onto that to join the first. I ground the seam where the pieces join' but after I get the front end built and those beams are no longer in service, I'll clean it all up and weld on an 11 gauge piece to straddle the seam. Then just turn them into a back-up set.

That came out really nice.

There are actually three pieces. I had to splice a small piece to carry the bottom radius out to the end and then another plate onto that to join the first. I ground the seam where the pieces join' but after I get the front end built and those beams are no longer in service, I'll clean it all up and weld on an 11 gauge piece to straddle the seam. Then just turn them into a back-up set.

I'm not really following you on needing the extra piece. I was able to do mine with a single plate like the one you pictured here:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/518259/fullsize/pass-backplate.jpg

Regardless, the difference in strength will be night and day.

have to admit your bronc was already badass, this things gonna be sweet

Doing some maintenance work this weekend. Decided to change my transmission pan to a 2wd model because it's about 1" shallower. That allows for a 1" higher skidplate as well, which is the real objective. The Moroso sheetmetal aluminum pan still holds 2 quarts more fluid than a factory pan and comes with studs and a magnetic drain plug. I also took the opportunity to install a Transgo shift kit........that's about a 20min deal once you've got the pan off. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet because I'm waiting on a part for the steering. Should be ready by this evening.

Sorry for the cruddy pics.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/521104/fullsize/trans-pan.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/521105/fullsize/trans-pan2.jpg

Looks like it will be a sick truck when you are done. How much lift do you plan on getting from this?

Looks like it will be a sick truck when you are done. How much lift do you plan on getting from this?

The lift will stay between 4"-5" with a 4" wider track width. I want the CG to be as low as possible without compromising it's ability to take the hits.

Here's the other part of today's chores. Gotta get this boring stuff out of the way before the fun can start. I overheated the steering a few times during some go-fast weekends. I suspect this is what caused my steering box to start puking. The input shaft seals and pinion shaft seals were fine, but the o-ring in the input shaft housing failed. Rather than patch it up, I decided to replace it.

Along with the gearbox I put in the standard A1 Cardone PS pump, along with a B&M cooler and BroncoAire pulley. Unfortunately the shaft separated when I was installing the pulley, so I had to return the pump and wait for another out of LA. Needless to say the job didn't get completed tonight and I still haven't tested the trans. Everything is installed except the pressure line, so it should be completed in the morning. I'll get more pics later.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/521469/fullsize/a1-cardone.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/521470/fullsize/a1-cardone2.jpg

Yikes, your project is coming along nicely! I can't wait to see it in person.

MEEE TOOOOO!!!!!!!

Made good progress on the skidplate today. After brainstorming for a couple of weeks, i was coming up short on ideas, so I just went for it with the objective of not buying any additional materials. It's about 80% complete from a fab standpoint. I've got to build the x-member under the bell housing and get it coated. Here it is:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523166/fullsize/p5290002.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523168/fullsize/p5290004.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523169/fullsize/p5290005.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523170/fullsize/p5290006.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523171/fullsize/p5290007.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523173/fullsize/p5290009.jpg

It's built at the angle of the drivetrain as evident in the picture below.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523174/fullsize/p5290010.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523175/fullsize/p5290011.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523204/fullsize/p5290012.jpg

Wow thats one clean skid plate...

ya it is, looks great!

OOOh, purdy.... uh, where's mine? Did you get the shipping address right?:thumbup

Sweet bruddah....

Chase

Any reason for a standard bolt vs. a counter-sunk bolt?

Any reason for a standard bolt vs. a counter-sunk bolt?

I used what I had. :shrug

Okay, lets forget about waiting for you to start manufacturing parts. Can I just ship you my Bronco and let you build bumpers, sliders, and a skid plate for it? I have to say everything I've seen you build has been awesome. Maybe one day I'll be able to afford some tools to start doing some fab work like that on my own, but I think my Bronco deserves your quality of work. Keep it up!:thumbup

yikes your one sick man.... the sliders were top notch your new skid plate is bad ass.... can i become your apprentice?

WOW - Can we get some demensions of that skidplate? That is exactly what I've been looking for in a skidplate - I dont even have one on the transfer case :doh0715:

WOW - Can we get some demensions of that skidplate? That is exactly what I've been looking for in a skidplate - I dont even have one on the transfer case :doh0715:

Why not offer up a little sumthin-sumthin for the time Yikes has put into designing that skid plate! I mean c'mon he's posting pics of his work aint that enough for ya?!:doh0715:

Nice. Real nice. Awesome work as usual.

Why not offer up a little sumthin-sumthin for the time Yikes has put into designing that skid plate! I mean c'mon he's posting pics of his work aint that enough for ya?!:doh0715:
seriously, anyone with a tape measure and 1/2 a brain could produce something similar.

looks ****ing bad ass dude. i'm guessing it bolts to the tranny xmember already there and a new one to be made for the front? now youve got the wheels turning in my head. whats the thickness you used, looks like 1/8" plate?

seriously, anyone with a tape measure and 1/2 a brain could produce something similar.

looks ****ing bad ass dude. i'm guessing it bolts to the tranny xmember already there and a new one to be made for the front? now youve got the wheels turning in my head. whats the thickness you used, looks like 1/8" plate?

Yeah it does look thin in the pics. It's actually 3/16" plate. In the large span directly under the trans I intend to web the inside with 11g to add some ridgidity without adding too much weight. The two recessed bolts near the rear are fastened onto the factory x-member in existing holes.




Thanks for the good words fellas. :beer I got the drivers side member fabbed and mounted tonight. Getting enough clearance over the driveshaft and keeping it strong were challenging. It didn't come out great, but it should get the jobe done once tied in with the other two links I'm planning.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523997/fullsize/skid-member.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523998/fullsize/skid-member2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523999/fullsize/skid-member3.jpg

What did you weld onto the underside to make the bolt heads flush?

What did you weld onto the underside to make the bolt heads flush?

Take a look at the first picture. The two pieces of box tube are actually tubes welded into tubes. The outer tube has an 1 1/4" hole cut for the bolt head clearance and the inner tube is drilled to 1/2". Then the plate has a 1 1/2" hole, so there is approximately 3/8" depth between the two.

Nice work. I just noticed you r running ranchos in the back. Did you bottom those out when you were jumping?

Nice work. I just noticed you r running ranchos in the back. Did you bottom those out when you were jumping?

I melted down the MX6's that I had on there and needed some shocks same day. The Ranchos were all that I could get my hands on, short of going to "real" shocks. Don't like them and never did, but they'll have to do until I get the suspension work done.

Don't like them and never did, but they'll have to do until I get the suspension work done.


Hmmm, I'm looking forward to what you have planned.

Yikes, you going through the floor with the rear shocks?

Yikes, you going through the floor with the rear shocks?

Yes. After some reading and talking with Fantelli, it sounds like the only way to get the desired performance when running leaf springs. I've still got some research to do though.

Yes. After some reading and talking with Fantelli, it sounds like the only way to get the desired performance when running leaf springs. I've still got some research to do though.

Ah... That's why I never did go the Autofab way. I think thru the bed is the best way.. but the downside is you sacrifice the interior space.

Either way there's definitely a trade-off. In a race vehicle there would be no question for me, I'd hack the floor as required.

I do think though that most people would be surprised at how well Broncos CAN work while keeping the shocks under the floor.

John at Autofab told me that you can achieve 16" rear travel without going through the floor. I will get around to that eventually.

Achieving travel isn't the issue, it's shock geometry. by going through the floor you can use a longer shock and get closer to a 1:1 ratio at full bump (although most lean the shock forward and don't do that anyway).

I do think though that most people would be surprised at how well Broncos CAN work while keeping the shocks under the floor.

That's a very true statement!

In planning my build i thought about going through the floor, i thought about going with coil-overs, but it wasn't until i actually tested what i had that i realized i was totally happy with what i had!

What each individual needs to ask themselves is, what am i going to use it for? Mine is going to be a chase truck/pre-runner. I really want to keep it simple and functional, so i am sticking with old school coils, and keeping the shocks under the floor.

That's a very true statement!


BTW Nick, I spoke to Bobby and he swears you have a 10" 2.5 instead of a 12". And as I last remember looking under your truck I said something about that to u... Do you know for sure.

BTW Nick, I spoke to Bobby and he swears you have a 10" 2.5 instead of a 12". And as I last remember looking under your truck I said something about that to u... Do you know for sure.

There has been a little confussion about that. When i bought them i was told they were 10's, bobby looked at them, and thought they were 12's. I got the measurements from king collapsed, and extended, i measured them and they came out as 10's.

I remember you thought they were 12's when you saw them, and i told you they were 10's.

So why'd ya talk to Bobby huh? huh?

There has been a little confusion about that. When I bought them I was told they were 10's, bobby looked at them, and thought they were 12's. I got the measurements from king collapsed, and extended, I measured them and they came out as 10's.

I remember you thought they were 12's when you saw them, and I told you they were 10's.

So why'd ya talk to Bobby huh? huh?


Busted.. I'm really on the fence here about the rear. Through the bed or not.

I knew if the bronco was only going to serve one purpose, then lets go big and punch through the bed, tie into a cage, ...and so on.

But then I just finished up the motor and purchased a complete AC system for its creature comfort and reliability. Now it's turning back into a multi-purpose camping toy instead of the main objective of some super waaazoo bronco.

So long story short I spoke to Bobby about his bolt in under the bed mount.

Sorry Yikes.. a little of topic of your build.

Come 'on Convoy. Your rear needs to match the quality of the front and your front is set up nice! If you don't plan to race it, then why not go with trailing arms? You can move the rear seat back a bit and have the shocks come thru in front of it. :toothless

go thru the bed and run a single bucket in the back. thats how mine is and its sweet. my 5100s are mounted right to the top of the spring plate and go between the frame and tire, theres probably room even for a 3.0 smooth body.

go thru the bed and run a single bucket in the back. thats how mine is and its sweet. my 5100s are mounted right to the top of the spring plate and go between the frame and tire, theres probably room even for a 3.0 smooth body.

However I decide to do it, I'll be running a 3.0 3 or 4 tube bypass. I believe Moss runs a single at each corner in the rear. If it's good enough for them, then it's probably good enough for me. This Bronco is going to be the test bed for the race rig, so it will mimic a race set-up as close as possible, but be street legal. That being said....going through the bed is a given.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523204/fullsize/p5290012.jpg

i think i just busted a nut...


great work.. keep the updates coming.. :drinkbud

saw it in person on Thursday evening....

Way too cool.

If I were to do half the things to mine as B has done to his...I would never finish it.

I got some inspiration photos of it too.

very nice work! that is by far the best looking skid Ive seen, a little thin for rocks but should work perfect for the desert.

I envy your skills man!

are you tig welding everything or just mig?

wow awesome fab work man

dc

are you tig welding everything or just mig?

It's all mig. I wish I could afford a good TIG.

Hey Yikes...

Hats off to your fab skill's ...again. That is a very clean design for a skid.

:beer

Any progress on the cut and shut for the TTB?

Any progress on the cut and shut for the TTB?

I've been busy with other projects, but getting anxious to work on them. I'll post up as soon as progress is made.

Yeah, please....

I need to know how much to move the lower b/j out, as I cant afford to ship these things out there, have the work done, and ship them back.....

This is the only reason I havent jacked with my suspension yet.

Have a complete lift I keep tripping over int eh garage,.... but...

Chase

precisely why I'm interested in his progress.

precisely why I'm interested in his progress.


Sucks living away from the hot bed of desert racing doesnt it?

On the flip side, IF I stay in the navy, I will be stationed in San Diego... hahaha

Chase

Greer Dodge prerunner spare set up. I've had the idea for a while and now that I've seen it, I think I like it.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/543128/fullsize/greerpr.jpg

I like the idea, I might be interested in doing something like that down the road if things get too tight inside the bonco. Got anymore pics of that thing?

We have everything set up for ours which includes 2 ammo cans, tool box, spares, jack etc...but we are having trouble finding a cooler that will fit snug in the back or behind the two front seats. We can fit our camping gear no problem but I know things are going to start adding up down the line. I want to also fit a spare driveshaft somewhere, I think I can clamp it to one of the tubes in the rear cage.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/523204/fullsize/p5290012.jpg

Yikes, is your 8.8 bent? I bet it's my imagination, but it looks a little tweaked...

I would be surprised if it's not bent! But I think that's the camera optics distorting the image.

excellent skid plates! looks like it took some time to fabricate them !

Mounted the 3 Hella 4000's, but still working on the wiring. I'm no electrician. :toothless

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552561/fullsize/p8050020.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552562/fullsize/p8050021.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552568/fullsize/p8130027.jpg

Got the relays mounted on the inner fender next to the air cleaner. The bundle of wires to the left have not been run yet.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552566/fullsize/p8130025.jpg

Mounted the switch where the auxiliary power port was. Except for the backing plate I made to cover the hole, it almost looks factory.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552564/fullsize/p8120023.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/552567/fullsize/p8130026.jpg

Yikes this is an awesome build. If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost for you to build your front bumper and skip plate.

Yikes this is an awesome build. If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost for you to build your front bumper and skip plate.

Materials for the bumper totalled approximately $300, including $85 for the aluminum and $18 for the Hella tabs. The main tube is 2" x .134" wall DOM.....not cheap.

Hey Brian where the tabs specific to Hella?...if not the metal supply place by me carries tabs that have similair bends in them by protofab for about $2-$3 apiece.

nice swtich

Hey Brian where the tabs specific to Hella?...if not the metal supply place by me carries tabs that have similair bends in them by protofab for about $2-$3 apiece.

Yeah. They're a wider platform with 3 holes.....specific to the Hella base. I've got some standard tabs, but I wanted some to fit nicely with the 4000's.

Materials for the bumper totalled approximately $300, including $85 for the aluminum and $18 for the Hella tabs. The main tube is 2" x .134" wall DOM.....not cheap.

converting those three Hellas to HID would be awesome

converting those three Hellas to HID would be awesome

That's the plan and it's much cheaper than buying their HID's.

you can covert the 4000 to hid?

you can covert the 4000 to hid?

Yeah. I think I've got a good link for the conversion kits at home I'll post up later. IIRC it was about $330 per pair to convert, which is a bargain compared to $700 per light.

Hey Brian,

That's a very clean bumper design, the lights look good as well. Have you made any progress on the rock sliders?

I wish I was closer to more of the open desert country. My build would definitely be more of a "pre-runner" style. I still seem to be leaning more this direction all the time. I had it out again at Sand lake last weekend for the SOB Bronco run and got some air under the tires. Learned about a few things I want to change /add to help the suspension some more.

Anyhow I have been enjoying following along on your build.

Not much to update, but good things are in the works. I've got some c/tbeams on the way and finally got the new bumper, skidplate and radius arms powder coated. The front end is going to get the new parts before I've got good suspension ready because I bent the driver's radius arm. Here's a couple of shiny pics. I will update with something more significant soon!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/570950/fullsize/camburg-beams2.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/570949/fullsize/skidplate.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/570946/fullsize/pa040019.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/570947/fullsize/pa040021.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/570948/fullsize/pa040024.jpg

Looks great as always Yikes. :twotu:

What did you do with the sliders?

Looks great as always Yikes. :twotu:

What did you do with the sliders?


Thanks Hopper! :beer

They're on the garage floor at the moment. I'm undecided whether or not to put them back on, due to the change in the direction of my build. I built those sliders with 42's and 1 tons in mind. Now I'm not certain if I can make them work with glass fenders/quarters. If they go back on, they will get powdercoated first, but I have another idea I would like to try that's more dual-sport oriented. Stay tuned! :toothless

Weren't you originally building your own beams?

Weren't you originally building your own beams?

Yes! But the material cost of building a good jig is about the same as purchasing the beams. Right now time is the big problem. I need something now, so I'm going to make some quick mods to the beams I'm buying and get them under the Bronco asap. I still intend on fabbing my own beams and I would like to do it right, without the pressure of time.

The Bronco is looking sweet yikes. I really like that front bumper. Looking forward to the public release on that. I am curious to see if you can work the sliders as well. I am dual sport and would still like to work some sliders into mine once I ge ta few other things done. Looks great though keep up the good work.

The Bronco is looking sweet yikes. I really like that front bumper. Looking forward to the public release on that. I am curious to see if you can work the sliders as well. I am dual sport and would still like to work some sliders into mine once I ge ta few other things done. Looks great though keep up the good work.

We're making progress on the bumper. We found an awesome production fab business located in so cal. We're hoping their quote comes back within a reasonable window. The plan is to order a first article and then 10 units right out of the hole. Can't wait to get it rolling!

nice work yikes

Right now time is the big problem. I need something now, so I'm going to make some quick mods to the beams I'm buying and get them under the Bronco asap.

I hear you. Time was one of the factors that led me to build the Bronco and to build it the way I did. I really wanted to do most of the fab work myself on it, but the difference in time was too great. One of my mechanics and I knocked out the suspension install in about 6 hours. If I had fabricated the majority of the parts like I wanted it probably would have taken months to complete.

Keep up the good work!

Yikes have you been running the old stile Rancho long arm lift? Looks like you have 6" lift springs up front?

Looking good B!

Nice!!!!!

Hey Brian,

When are you going to start production of that front bumper? I definitely want one for my 95 Bronco. That thing looks bad @$$. Good job man.

Chris

Hey Brian,

When are you going to start production of that front bumper? I definitely want one for my 95 Bronco. That thing looks bad @$$. Good job man.

Chris

Thanks Chris! The design is out for quote. Anticipated lead times are around 6-8 weeks. As soon as I've got a solid date, I'll let you know.

Well, the fun has been put on hold for a bit while I take care of some much needed maintenance. My TPS is acting up, so I'm going to replace it and the IAC while the valve body is off. The valve body was super dirty after almost 150k. I cleaned it and being as I am, couldn't leave it alone. So I decided to port the mouth to improve airflow. I'm sure there won't be a HP gain, but I'm hoping the throttle response will benefit. We'll see. Just the lower port (as mounted) is done in the pics.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575397/fullsize/throttle-body.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575398/fullsize/throttle-body2.jpg

Finished.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575436/fullsize/throttle-body3.jpg

I also put an MSD coil on the other day just for peace of mind. It was a bit crisper on start up, but just as I expected, there were no other gains recognized.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575399/fullsize/coil.jpg

Looking good! That TB came real clean!

You could also pop the TB back off, and very very quickly do whats called having the throttle shaft. Where you removed the butterflies and cut the shaft in half leaving only the side with the threads to retain the butter fly plates. Then, again very quickly at that point you could knife edge the leading edge of the b fly plates as well. Then very low profile retaining screws and whala. Several months ago after much research, I did my own very extensive porting on the TB for an LS1 car I have and it yeilded very astonishing gains. I did every trick in the book that all the professionals do (and more), and took each one a little further and the results were shocking. Granted, different application and the LS1 TB's have much more mouth of the casting improvements that can even be done (and the cars even stock really respond to airflow improvements). However, if you hold that TB up in the air and hold the thing WOT and look down the barrels and note how much space the shaft is taking up.........well just knocking the un-needed half off like some pros do on other apps and even places like bbk do....well that opens up a bunch of space for more air to flow. Obviously, if it wants/needs it...........it'll be a big noticeable change. Just thought I'd toss that out there......though you likely already knew that as well. Oh, and many times stock throttle bodies seem to not go to true WOT when you check them out which is anothe little item that can be corrected again offering more airflow through the TB since the shaft and blades, screws etc are now taking up much less space. Again, surprissing improvement potential especially when you compare before and after and see how much its now opened up for more air.

Either way, following your build. Killer truck and I wish I had your fab skills and the tools to make it happen.

I noticed reference to your front bumper being duplicated for sale to others. If I understood correctly please be sure and put a link in this thread to any you start notifying people of its availability. I would be a likely customer. Looks killer! And, I'll be needing a front bumper soon.

Good info 408! I was actually thinking of those modifications, but wasn't sure if the gains would be worth the effort. They may not be, given the factory cam and heads, but it's good to hear some real world experience with this. Thanks! As for the bumper, I've got a meeting scheduled with a potential manufacturer Tuesday. It's getting there! I'll definitely post up.



Alright. I managed to squeeze in a couple of hours to work on the beams tonight. These are used Mason Motorsports C/T's that I'm going to lengthen and gusset/truss. The first step towards making them "mine" is to weld the layers of plate around the knuckle. I got the driver's beam done.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575483/fullsize/mason-beam.jpg

Before. You can see in this picture where the beam was previously cut and welded to correct the camber.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575484/fullsize/mason-beam2.jpg

After. Next step will be to weld 11 gage plate front and back around the knuckle area.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575485/fullsize/mason-beam3.jpg

Same post on C3R....

How much lift are those beams set up for?

What's your target lift number after the beams are extended?

Are you going to extend beams that already have the ball joint moved out to correct camber? It seems like you might end up with beams that are aligned for too much lift. Wouldn't it make more sense to extend the beam first then correct camber?

.
Same post on C3R....

How much lift are those beams set up for? 4"

What's your target lift number after the beams are extended? 4.25":toothless

Are you going to extend beams that already have the ball joint moved out to correct camber? It seems like you might end up with beams that are aligned for too much lift. Wouldn't it make more sense to extend the beam first then correct camber? Given the projected angle of the beam, extending 1"-1 1/2" per side will only yield 1/4" or so lift and has 0 impact on camber. The intention is to stay within Class 3 specs and lengthen just the passenger axle. Obviously that means they'll be stretched from the pivot end. The clearance for the centersection is a minimal modification, so I'm not concerned with that. Bump location will be moved.

Yikes have you been running the old stile Rancho long arm lift? Looks like you have 6" lift springs up front?

Sorry, I missed this post. I've had the new style Rancho lift for a couple of years with 4" springs and 1/2" spacer. The bent Rancho arms have proven to be bendable.:toothless

Ok, 408Bronco made me do it! I got up this morning and started messing with the TB again. WOT did need to be tuned. I removed .075" from the throttle stop to get the butterflies on plane. Then I ground off the ends of the b-fly screws and checked them to ensure they were secure and wouldn't back out. Then I ground some material from the shaft between the screws. Decided not to knife edge the b-flies right now. If I cam it and do some head work down the road, then I'll probably bore the TB and make some new b-flies.....and do more of a professional job on it. :histerica

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575544/fullsize/throttle-body5.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575545/fullsize/throttle-body6.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/575546/fullsize/throttle-body7.jpg

Could you do a side-by-side of the finished version of the TB and the original TB? I guess I'm missing what you did, well except for the screws.....

I think he ground the stop pad area to allow for 'true' WOT... and made the TB "bigger" for more air flow. more space for air when there is less mechanicals inside the TB.

appears that way in how he is holding the throttle linkage open.

edit: I must be blind...he said it needed to be tuned. how the heck could I have missed that.




Brian...you want to Tune mine up while you are not at it.

Could you do a side-by-side of the finished version of the TB and the original TB? I guess I'm missing what you did, well except for the screws.....

I don't think I have good before pictures. I didn't actually bore anything. Just blended/radiused the entries, polished the bore, tuned/blueprinted WOT and removed material around the butterflies. It's all probably worth a few CFM and throttle response.

Ahh, I didn't realize you were extending on the pivot end. I'm not a fan of that method, but I know your attention to detail, so I'm sure you can make it work.

I don't think I have good before pictures. I didn't actually bore anything. Just blended/radiused the entries, polished the bore, tuned/blueprinted WOT and removed material around the butterflies. It's all probably worth a few CFM and throttle response.

Ahh, it finally hit me when I went back and looked at the pictures. What did you use to do the blending?

Ahh, it finally hit me when I went back and looked at the pictures. What did you use to do the blending?

I used a rasp to remove most of the material and get the general shape, then a sanding cylinder to remove the heavy file lines. After that I just used a couple of different sandpaper grits, the last of which was 1500. Then I hit it all with some polish and a wrag wrapped around a shaft on a drill. It was actually quite a quick process.

Picked up these 2.5 x 14 Racerunners for $300. :shocked Brand new with the shields still on the decals and unpressurized. Not the best, but a step in the right direction. I'll pick up a valving kit (and spare rebuild kits) and tune them once I get 'em on and tested.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/576730/fullsize/sways.jpg

Score! Are you using those in the rear?

Score! Are you using those in the rear?

Naw. They'll go up front with coils for now, most likely. I'll do 12's out back. Then I can have some fun while I build the biz and move up when the finances are ready. The move from MX6's to these should be night and day.

Picked up these 2.5 x 14 Racerunners for $300. :shocked Brand new with the shields still on the decals and unpressurized. Not the best, but a step in the right direction. I'll pick up a valving kit (and spare rebuild kits) and tune them once I get 'em on and tested.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/576730/fullsize/sways.jpg

WOW aren't those pretty....:rockon

You don't need a complete kit. The SAW kits are super-expensive and you'll just end up with a bunch of shims you don't need. I bought a FOX kit and even at half the cost of a SAW kit I still spent too much money on shims I don't really need.

I can give you a good baseline to start with as far as valving and you can adjust from there to suit your truck and driving style.

I'm guessing those are going to go in front of the coil-bucket. As you probably already know, clearances are really tight in that area. I don't know if you're you're going to be able to clear the reservoir mounted on the shock like it is. You might be able to squeeze by if you use a hose to relocate the reservoir to another area. By the way, you may already know this, but the shock body can be rotated on the upper mount allowing you to clock the reservoir outlet to suit your needs.

Again, great buy on the shocks!

Nice score B!

Ok, 408Bronco made me do it! I got up this morning and started messing with the TB again. WOT did need to be tuned. I removed .075" from the throttle stop to get the butterflies on plane. Then I ground off the ends of the b-fly screws and checked them to ensure they were secure and wouldn't back out. Then I ground some material from the shaft between the screws. Decided not to knife edge the b-flies right now. If I cam it and do some head work down the road, then I'll probably bore the TB and make some new b-flies.....and do more of a professional job on it. :histerica
Just spotted this. LOL, right on. Looks good. It seems yet another TB that didn't truely go to WOT when opened up. To help feed the addiction I'll add the comments that ......from the pics it looks like you could get away with slimming the shaft all the way just to the width of each bore. Can usually knock the shaft thickness on the side with the threads down to anywhere from approximately 2/3rds to half the original thickness. You just use your own best judgement there as it starts getting flimsy. Reality is, unless the plates are binding real bad from being out of center in the bores then the shafts deal with no real strain and thus can be flat filed and radiaused down to being surprissingly thin. The heads of those screws could be taken down too. Leaving just enough depth for you to still be able to get a hold of them. Then, those blades look thick. You could slim the snot out of those, and then do the knife edgeing from both the inlet side and even the backside to kill some turbulence. Don't forget a little red loktite on the threads. It all adds up. If you really wanted to get carried away on the stock TB (as if that wasn't enough already), you could remove that kneckdown to the butterfly size. Open that baby all the way up and make custom butterfly plates. Never seen anybody actually do it on these, but its clearly a visible option. And, I've seen it done on other TB's. Incidently and you may already have noticed this or it may have occured to you, but as that shaft gets thinner be sure and support the shaft with something like a deep socket sticking into the throttle bore whenever you remove/install the plate screws. Just so that shaft doesn't get tweaked once its thinner/weaker. Either way, looks like an improvement already. Good work as usual :thumbup.

On my LS1, I may oval the TB bore and use a naturally custom made throttle plate which is basically the absolute max effort modded TB for the app while trying to look like a stocker from the outside. Epoxy at the ready.

Let me point out before you go full bore on modding this TB, which does have more left in it certainly.........That well you can easily adapt a 2nd gen. Lightning TB onto these. The bolt pattern is the same. All you have to do is open up the bolt holes in the L TB. Then get an external IAC adapter (like 50 bucks if I remember right. Expensive for what it is.). The L TB's flow something like 1000cfm. I think that was according to one of the aftermarket manufacturers testing. The big cfm ratings come in handy for lowering inlet restrictions on certain blown apps. All those guys think they need to step up from stock. So the stock TB's can be had cheap. I have one (mildly ported by the previous owner, waiting for me to cut loose on it.) waiting for my KB blown combo. The L TB's also force a switch to a single style inlet tube which can look better especially if being used in a Mass Air combo/app.

And then ofcourse theres always still the ebay BBK TB's that occasionally still pop up for these in the dual 56 or dual 61mm flavors.



By the way, those shocks look sweet and while I'm not educated on the desert speed stuff I'd think thats gotta be a deal. Sure are sweet lookin (purty) shocks :thumbup

:drinkbud I'll shut up now........

:popc1:

whats the TPS voltage at WOT after the cut down???

dc

Picked up these 2.5 x 14 Racerunners for $300. :shocked Brand new with the shields still on the decals and unpressurized. Not the best, but a step in the right direction. I'll pick up a valving kit (and spare rebuild kits) and tune them once I get 'em on and tested.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/576730/fullsize/sways.jpg

DAMN you brian did you get these off of race-dezert?

He sure did, see the thread below this one...

Chase

:banghead:doh0715:

:banghead:doh0715:

Gotta be quick!!


Ok here's this weekend's project. Gotta replace the motor mounts before the thing comes thru the hood. Yes, I would rather have the Autofab mounts, but there are too many other items on the list right now to justify the expense. Anyway, while I'm at it I've got to replace the pan gasket. I've got a Stage 8 bolt kit that's been waiting for that to happen for a couple of years now. Ha!

Oh, the grade 5's shown will be replaced with 8's. Not really necessary, but it's just a few bucks for a couple of bolts and nuts and a little extra peace of mind.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577516/fullsize/motor-mounts.jpg

B-
whose mounts are those?

yah yah...they are yours now...but where did you get them?

B-
whose mounts are those?

yah yah...they are yours now...but where did you get them?

JBG believe it or not.

Here's the reason the mounts are getting upgraded.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577672/fullsize/motor-mounts-torn.jpg

I pity anyone that replaces a pan gasket. What a PITA. Oil pan was a mess. The first pic is after it had already been cleaned, but not sanded/prepped. The second speaks for itself.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577725/fullsize/oil-pan-before.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577726/fullsize/oil-pan-after.jpg

Turns out the Stage 8's are wrong. Package is marked correct, but the contents aren't. Ahhhhh!!!

Motor mounts all dolled up.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577788/fullsize/motor-mounts2.jpg

now why would you want that pan all nice and clean for?

To show off the drips???? hahaha look nice.


Any chance of coming out my direction anytime soon?(month) halfway interested in getting those old mounts from ya...I've had an idea and curious if it would work- but reluctant to remove mine to try just in case it doesn't.

Did you get a cherry picker or did you just use a floor jack for the motor mounts?

I pity anyone that replaces a pan gasket. What a PITA.

Ditto on the oil pan. Definitely a pain in the....

Looks like you're well on your way to making it to the Pismo trip!

Any chance of coming out my direction anytime soon?(month) halfway interested in getting those old mounts from ya...I've had an idea and curious if it would work- but reluctant to remove mine to try just in case it doesn't.

Are you just after the engine side of the mounts? The frame sides are bent and trashed.

Did you get a cherry picker or did you just use a floor jack for the motor mounts?

My bro-n-law and I bought a cherry picker almost 20 years ago. It doesn't get used much, but it sure is nice when you need it.

Ditto on the oil pan. Definitely a pain in the....

Looks like you're well on your way to making it to the Pismo trip!

Once this is back together, the exhaust will finally seal up at the collectors, which should help my high idle and timing woes. Then I'll work at getting a new rear driveshaft.....again.....and then it's on to the fun stuff!

Are you just after the engine side of the mounts? The frame sides are bent and trashed.


the engine side would be good.

Looking good as always. I dont know if it was earlier in this thread, Or another thread, But could you post up the link to converting the Hella's over?

Turns out the Stage 8's are wrong. Package is marked correct, but the contents aren't. Ahhhhh!!!

Motor mounts all dolled up.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/577788/fullsize/motor-mounts2.jpg
How should these or do these compare to the Autofab mounts? Not quite as stout, but more than adequate?

How should these or do these compare to the Autofab mounts? Not quite as stout, but more than adequate?

These are in fact built by Autofab and the engine side is similar to their high-end mounts. The other mounts I believe replace the entire purch and are TIG welded of Cromoly. GKR bought a pair recently. Here's (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105838) his thread. As far as strength. I would say these can handle all but the most severe conditions (lots of HP coupled with high speeds in the dirt/big hits). Even then I don't think the mounts would fail before the frame purches.

These are in fact built by Autofab and the engine side is similar to their high-end mounts. The other mounts I believe replace the entire purch and are TIG welded of Cromoly. GKR bought a pair recently. Here's (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105838) his thread. As far as strength. I would say these can handle all but the most severe conditions (lots of HP coupled with high speeds in the dirt/big hits). Even then I don't think the mounts would fail before the frame purches. Oh, .........right on. Thanks for the details/info, and the link.

How should these or do these compare to the Autofab mounts? Not quite as stout, but more than adequate?

These are in fact built by Autofab and the engine side is similar to their high-end mounts. The other mounts I believe replace the entire purch and are TIG welded of Cromoly. GKR bought a pair recently. Here's (http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105838) his thread. As far as strength. I would say these can handle all but the most severe conditions (lots of HP coupled with high speeds in the dirt/big hits). Even then I don't think the mounts would fail before the frame purches.

A while back I asked John why he didn't market the EB-302 (pictured above) for V8 F150s and Broncos like JBG does. He told me the FT-302N (The heavy duty mounts that GKR used) were a better structure especially for off-road use. The replacement brackets are much more rigid and even help to stiffen the engine cross member some.

Like Yikes said, I don't think the durability of the EB-302 mounts is in question at all. I really don't see how you could hurt them or the grade 5 bolt. Although, I suppose if you ran the mounts with no bushings and allowed the engine to pound the bolt back and forth you could probably get it to break.:toothless

Oh, OK .......more good details............:popc1:

I recently installed those same mounts :thumbup One thing I did notice after the installation is that the engine sat higher by an inch.

Have you had a chance to drive it after the TB mods? Just wondering if you noticed any "seat of the pants" change. I'm getting closer to getting the throttle response I want, but I still think i could squeeze a bit more out of it.

Have you had a chance to drive it after the TB mods? Just wondering if you noticed any "seat of the pants" change. I'm getting closer to getting the throttle response I want, but I still think i could squeeze a bit more out of it.

Throttle response and off-idle power have improved quite a bit, but with all of the other problems the engine has, I haven't been able to get a feel for the midrange performance. I blew out the header collector from the lean condition......too much heat. I've got to pull it and see if I can weld it up, or??? Pain in the butt. Still have t-shot the lean problem.

Sucks about the headers.....

Good deal on the throttle response. I may have to plan for this mod this coming weekend.

Throttle response and off-idle power have improved quite a bit, but with all of the other problems the engine has, I haven't been able to get a feel for the midrange performance. I blew out the header collector from the lean condition......too much heat. I've got to pull it and see if I can weld it up, or??? Pain in the butt. Still have t-shot the lean problem.
Cool that the stock mill saw some benefit. Obviously wanted more and was restricted.

So, whats the engine plan for this thing, roughly?

Cool that the stock mill saw some benefit. Obviously wanted more and was restricted.

So, whats the engine plan for this thing, roughly?

In a nutshell. I would like to build an emissions legal 408 with around 450 horse. Now whether or not I can do that on a budget that will realistically be around 5-7k I don't know, but it will be fun to try.

In a nutshell. I would like to build an emissions legal 408 with around 450 horse. Now whether or not I can do that on a budget that will realistically be around 5-7k I don't know, but it will be fun to try.
Certainly doable. I would recomend contacting some very sbf stroker experienced engine builders. Reason I say that is because I did have some conversation with one recomended by many on NLOC and the guy told me he absolutely wouldn't stroke a stock block 351w up to 408 inchs for a pre-runner application. That was roughly my game plan. He adimitly said anything bigger than a 393 with the sustained even moderate/to high rpm of a pre-runner would crack the main saddles in the block. Now, the flip side is the guys pulling a ton of rpm out of bigger stroker sbf's than that over in the Corral (but those guys are primarily drag racers, different application). Definetly worth researching.

Any chance of a efi'd 460? They can be had cheap and have some pluses for the additional weight penalty.

I'd be thinking Mass Air Efi aluminum head 460 based on a late model 460 block. Eat the oh..........I forget .........something like 75 lbs increase. Gain the torque and ease of making 450 to 500 hp in a very useable rpm range that a heavy rig needs. Basically, thats my game plan. I will not be playing with a small block in a heavy vehicle again. I've been spoiled by big blocks in the past. If it doesn't need to rev a ton, or rev super quick ..........and needs torque.......well cubes just have an easier time. You figure, roughly......a fifty horse bump build for build.........and ones quite mild and the other is pushing things more.

I'd confirm the stock small block should hold up to the sustained rpm. A 460'd be the shizzle. Many options to consider.

Another thing I'd recomend is if your going to really pinch pennies and maybe even do some engine assembly yourself you can find out who your local engine reman companies get their cores from. Hook with a core supplier and that can be one way to come by a super cheap efi 460 bbf or an F4TE block (oem roller lifter 351w). Disassemble, buy pistons & rings of your liking. Supply to local machine shop with a fantastic rep. Pick up, assemble yourself. Or, have them assemble the short block, then you complete from there. Man, I can't wait for my next engine build........fun stuff. Nothing like a fresh bullet!

In a nutshell. I would like to build an emissions legal 408 with around 450 horse. Now whether or not I can do that on a budget that will realistically be around 5-7k I don't know, but it will be fun to try.

My 393 put out about 475hp and 515ft/lbs on paper...err. desktop dyno.

Afr 185 heads, 10.5:1 compression. cast 3.95 crank, egale forged i beam rods, fed mogule 302 hyper pistons, 4x4 roller cam and lifters in f4te block, cheap edelbrock carb intake, holley 670 street avenger, 1.6 roller rockers, port matched/mild port of heads and intake. long tube heddman hedders. msd coil cap and wires. high flow water and oil pump, roller timing chain, new balancer.

Anyway i say all of that to say this....I was too scared to keep track of all the money, but I think a safe guess would be around $4500 when it was installed and running. This included a $200 mistake in purchasing pistons. Also went e-fan, got a sag pump, replaced alot of bolts with grade 8 stuff, fresh paint, etc etc.

Basically went through everthing i could. Since your efi its gonna cost a little more. I would look into maybe a "spyder" style intake like what jopes has (theres some off the self ones for small blocks). It would be more suited to the high rpms, but i believe it would also work well for troque. I plan on running one. Theres a lot of other options on the EFI end too.

And of course, im no expert im sure some other guys here know far more about it.

Another thing I'd recomend is if your going to really pinch pennies and maybe even do some engine assembly yourself you can find out who your local engine reman companies get their cores from. Hook with a core supplier and that can be one way to come by a super cheap efi 460 bbf or an F4TE block (oem roller lifter 351w). Disassemble, buy pistons & rings of your liking. Supply to local machine shop with a fantastic rep. Pick up, assemble yourself. Or, have them assemble the short block, then you complete from there. Man, I can't wait for my next engine build........fun stuff. Nothing like a fresh bullet!

also keep and eye out in the car forums. I scored a pretty fresh f4te block, whole serp. setup, oil cooler and efi harness for $300 off of corral.net. It was only 5 miles form my house as well.

shortblock assembly is pretty simple, but I paid the machines to put the crank and pistons in for a few reasons. I had never done it first. But also, the machinist has all the tools to check the tolerances, clearances etc. on everything. IIRC one of my bearins was slightly out of spec new out of the box, but the machinist caught it and replaced it for free. I would have never noticed.

One last thing, i talked to a core supplier, well i did thru my dad at least. The rebuildable core f4te block was around $250 i believe. that was with crank caps and bolts, spider an dog bones, timing cover and pan too i think. So its a valid option as well, if you can find one.

Any chance of a efi'd 460? They can be had cheap and have some pluses for the additional weight penalty.



In CA? and still be legal....IDK. I agree though...it would be the shizzle.

Great info guys and thanks for the heads up on the 408 limitations. Man this brings back memories! Isn't it correct that the F4TE block should be what's in my '96? I haven't checked. A big block is certainly something I would consider for reasons just as you stated. I went that route with my Blazer (468ci) and was quite pleased. Redline was 5300 and man would it get there quick. I couldn't shift quick enough to keep it off of the rev limiter (NP435). Whole lotta torque on a budget. My engine builder raced Winston West and built his own chassis' and engines for years and was an absolute master with Ford small blocks.

In CA? and still be legal....IDK. I agree though...it would be the shizzle.

I went the big block route with my Blazer in the early 90's. Ended up buying a carb and manifold set-up just to be legal/pass smog. Once it passed, I would pull them, along with the smog pump, air injection and egr, Then run the stuff I liked. :thumbup It took a couple of trips to the ref, but they seemed to enjoy the project and helped me through it.......in CA! If you can believe it. Don't know if it would be any more difficult now than it was then???

Isn't it correct that the F4TE block should be what's in my '96? I haven't checked. A big block is certainly something I would consider for reasons just as you stated. Yes, a 96 would originally come with an F4TE block. Generally, you then just grab the dogbones and spider (oem roller lifter retainers and holddown) from a 5.0 stang guy and she's (the block) ready for a roller cam.

I'd find out if the BBF is an option. If its possible at all.........I'd be on that in a heartbeat. Need to make several calls to emissions folks. Just to get an average of anwers. Hopefully, yes......you sure could do that will be the higher answer after averaging lol. If only the intakes appeared similar. I still think I could pull it off here in AZ. Just went through with my bronco project this past weekend and I'm convinced I could eliminate the cats, thermactor tubes and possibly the egr tube. All I'd need would be the air pump hanging there with a belt and hoses running off somewhere, and the mustang style egr valve hanging somewhere off the intake manifold (whether mustang style or off my KB) and these numbnutts wouldn't know one way or another. Guy thought the vacume canister on the drivers side was the fuel evap deal. I was like,......why do you care about the engine vacume backup for accessories to work. Then, uh dude.........the evap canister is on the other side (idiots). She passed! But I'm not in Cali. I have thermactor tubes bolted to the back of the heads, but my heads have no thermactor tubes/ports. My heads are stealthy that way by design (stuff bolts up still, but goes nowhere (dead holes)).

When the time comes, or your thinking about it........I'd nail the emissions BBF swap thing down. Hey, I just thought of a way to disquise a BBF for these emissions idiots. Just put a KB kit on it. That would make the induction look real real similar between the two. Would also hide alittle bit that the valvie covers were just a few (many) hundred thousandths of an inch further appart.

Got some balls today.......Uniballs!!! :thumbup Decided to upgrade since I'm going to be cutting the beams up anyway. I'm not sure why, but I'm more excited about these than just about anything else I've done.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/582635/fullsize/uniballs.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/582636/fullsize/uniballs2.jpg





Here's the Bronco with the current set-up at almost full droop.:histerica Not really, but I'll post a comparison pic after the front end is done. And the cherrypicker??? I bought that 18yrs ago with my bro-n-law....money well spent!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/582637/fullsize/motor-mounts3.jpg

Killer man, looks good as usual. More awesome parts. Whats with the picker? The engine (bullet) coming out already?

Whats with the picker? The engine (bullet) coming out already?

I wish it was, but no. I took that picture when I was swapping the mounts.

Thanks for the update yikes, I am looking forward to seeing how the uniballs work out for you. If I go to coilovers that is something I have considered as well.
I wanted to add to the engine comments from earlier, I have been doing some research on a 393 stoker, and after talking to a few folks over on race desert and some others, you should not have a problem passing smog as long as you dont go overboard with the cam. I am sure you already know that though, but i thought I would give my two cents, the couple of folks I have talked ot that have gone the stroker route have been pretty pleased with it. I think it is a nice way to go for the broncos. I think you would have a heck of a time getting a big block swap refed out here anymore, and to be truthful I think the stroker will give you all you need and more for your build. Anyways things are looking great ......

Any updates on your front bumper sales project??????? I am looking forward to hearing more on that.

Thanks for the update yikes, I am looking forward to seeing how the uniballs work out for you. If I go to coilovers that is something I have considered as well.
I wanted to add to the engine comments from earlier, I have been doing some research on a 393 stoker, and after talking to a few folks over on race desert and some others, you should not have a problem passing smog as long as you dont go overboard with the cam. I am sure you already know that though, but i thought I would give my two cents, the couple of folks I have talked ot that have gone the stroker route have been pretty pleased with it. I think it is a nice way to go for the broncos. I think you would have a heck of a time getting a big block swap refed out here anymore, and to be truthful I think the stroker will give you all you need and more for your build. Anyways things are looking great ......

Any updates on your front bumper sales project??????? I am looking forward to hearing more on that.


Thanks for the info! More and more it does seem the 393 is the way to go.

I started an update thread for the biz in gen chit chat. We're still waiting for quotes. Believe it or not. I'll PM you.

Yikes, thanks for the PM. Hope you dont think I am being pushy on the bumper. I just dont want to miss anything on this and to let you know I am serious. I really am impressed with the work you are doing. I know we all love drooling over your rig and the projects.

Got some time in on the driver's side beam today. Extend the pivot end 1 1/4". I'll let the pics do the talkin'.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583420/fullsize/pb110001.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583421/fullsize/pb110002.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583422/fullsize/pb110003.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583423/fullsize/pb110004.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583424/fullsize/pb110005.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583427/fullsize/pb110008.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583430/fullsize/pb110011.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583431/fullsize/pb110012.jpg

Here it is! The shock is there for size comparison. I've still got a solid days work left with some other plate work. The shock mount will get fabbed up after I've mocked it all up under the Bronco and cycled the suspension.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/583432/fullsize/pb110013.jpg

Wow, that looks awesome. Good job!

So, you guys are going to be offering front bumpers. That much I understand, but are you also going to offer beams? What else are in the plans to offer forsale?

So, you guys are going to be offering front bumpers. That much I understand, but are you also going to offer beams? What else are in the plans to offer forsale?

We're focusing on the basics right now. The typical product line will consist of front and rear bumpers, belly pans, fuel tank skids and sliders. We've been tossing around some suspension ideas, but that won't happen until we're well established. My partner is an ex-shock engineer and he would love to develop his own line.

Hey Brian,

Any more updates on your rig?

Chris

Hey Brian,

Any more updates on your rig?

Chris

Not right now. I've got a lot to accomplish though. I'll be back on it after the new year. There have been too many higher priorities the last few months. Life seems to move at the speed of light sometimes. Believe me, I'm dieing to make some progress. I've got an email in to FOA about the status on their bumps. I know the price is going to be right and I'm thinking about using them on all four corners to save some $$. Still up in the air whether or not to go coilovers or just do coils for now....again to save $$. I think bumps, Deavers and SAW rezzi's on all four will give a decent ride that I can have fun with until I can do it up right.

Did a quick google for FOA BS's and didn't get much ... whats the skinny?
I'm lean'n toward coil overs up front and Deavers in the back...you may get there before me, so it'll be cool to see how yours works out.


OOp's can't type found em when I typed in FOA instead of FAO

Did a quick google for FOA BS's and didn't get much ... whats the skinny?
I'm lean'n toward coil overs up front and Deavers in the back...you may get there before me, so it'll be cool to see how yours works out.


OOp's can't type found em when I typed in FOA instead of FAO

FOA's reply:

Shooting for late january. The plan is for them to be $150ea. including the mounting cans.

Can't beat that!

Can't beat that!

no you cant even used....

Brian...you got to get those Stay...SAWs mounted up and tested. they look to be reasonably priced and attractive to my meager budget.

no you cant even used....

Brian...you got to get those Stay...SAWs mounted up and tested. they look to be reasonably priced and attractive to my meager budget.

Once I've got the rest of the off-the-shelf parts, it'll happen. That's basically springs, bumps, brake lines and limit straps. It's funny, because even with doing my own fab work and scoring some great deals, I'll have around 2k wrapped up in the very budget front end.

thats what I was realizing after short building my 9"...I only saved enough to buy some better used tires....

You will still be done with your front long before I am with mine.
Please remember to take lots of good photos...Running over to take a look at yours will not be sooooo easy for too much longer.

Stuff that's gettin' in the way of the fun. Had to replace the fuel pump, so I replaced the tank with a full size version:toothless, then banged out the pan to re-use it. I'll be building a skidplate soon.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/593860/fullsize/pc180002.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596123/fullsize/img_0106.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596124/fullsize/img_0107.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596125/fullsize/img_0108.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596126/fullsize/img_0109.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596127/fullsize/img_0111.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596129/fullsize/img_0112.jpg

just had to say nice rig man

You end up gettting the tank off eBay?

How many gallons is that tank Brian?

Chris

just had to say nice rig man

Thanks! :beer

You end up gettting the tank off eBay?

Yeah. $80 shipped. Came with the upper straps and the lock ring w/seal.

How many gallons is that tank Brian?

Chris

33gal. I'm thinking of making my own in a 45-50gal size with a built in skidplate.

Damn Everything Looks good!

Disclaimer: I just want to say I'm not proud of what you're about to see, but I'm going to Pismo next week. :rockon


Well, the rear end got hammered bad the last trip out at Bessimer Mine road. 60mph, whoops and stock suspension don't play well together. The rearend was already bent from some hard landings in the past and now it's got cracked perches pressed into severely collapsed axle tubes.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600508/fullsize/img_0169.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600509/fullsize/img_0170.jpg

So what do you do when you don't want to throw money into a rearend that's not trailworthy and you don't have the cashflow for the one you want? ...you make a redneck axle truss!! :toothless

I grabbed some scrap metal that was on the side of the house and went to town. The perches were deformed, so I decided to weld my CRS wedge blocks to them to give the springs a stable platform. I made the blocks a couple of years back to replace the factory units due to cracking issues. They look tall, but they're only 5/8" taller than factory. After squaring them up and melting them together, I made some gussets out of 3/16" channel. Again, because that's what I had.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600510/fullsize/img_0172_edited.jpg

The channel also gives the poly bump stop a nice surface to do it's thing.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600512/fullsize/img_0175.jpg

One of the few decent welds I managed to get. I hate laying on my back to weld!!
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600513/fullsize/img_0176.jpg

Then I grabbed a piece of 2" x .134" wall DOM and bent a truss. It's not very strong, but it will hold up longer than this rearend. :histerica
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600511/fullsize/img_0173_edited.jpg


So anyway, I'm going to wring the last bit of life out of this rearend. It was bent before and now it's bentererererer. The plan is to get a FF 9 before it let's loose. Any bets?

all i got to say is nice welds :thumbup

That looks really good. Did you a cut the perches off to repair the tubes or did you just reweld them?

That looks really good. Did you a cut the perches off to repair the tubes or did you just reweld them?

No . The axle tubes are collapsed so much that they're beyond repair, so I just rewelded the perches in place and corrected the alignment with the blocks, which effectively becomes the perch. The axle tubes are bent from the centersection out. That could have been fixed, but I'm not putting another dime into this rear.

hey yikes is that crane cover/gridle or just cover ? looks pretty beefy

but I'm not putting another dime into this rear.

New sig line??:toothless

hey yikes is that crane cover/gridle or just cover ? looks pretty beefy

It's just a cover, but it takes one heck of a beating.

I applaud you for your commitment to the trip! I can't wait!

I'd run it till it breaks again, just make sure you break it good. None of these wimpy cracks and bent tubes :toothless

Truck and build is great!

I have the autofab/JBG motor mounts as well and I agree, they'd be good for all but the harshest pounding.

Also regarding the F4TE 96 motor. The truck is equipped from the factory with a roller cam, no need to buy those parts.

yikes, nice job on the bandaid. I was at pick a part in san berdoo last week
it was 9'' heaven, I picked up a full floater for a buddies pre runner for $100 bucks. if you ever need help im in san Bernardino, just pm me

I'd run it till it breaks again, just make sure you break it good. None of these wimpy cracks and bent tubes :toothless

Well, I've certainly got to test the integrity of the truss. Just how weak is it? I'll find out. :thumbup

Truck and build is great!


I have the autofab/JBG motor mounts as well and I agree, they'd be good for all but the harshest pounding.

Also regarding the F4TE 96 motor. The truck is equipped from the factory with a roller cam, no need to buy those parts.

Thanks man :beer

yikes, nice job on the bandaid. I was at pick a part in san berdoo last week
it was 9'' heaven, I picked up a full floater for a buddies pre runner for $100 bucks. if you ever need help im in san Bernardino, just pm me

Thanks. I've been wanting to go junk yard shopping, but in the end I think all I would have is a housing, the rest would be replaced and the housing would have to be modified.

Looks like a good "hillbilly" fix Brian. Wish I could make it down for this one with you guys.

Picked up some new Glassworks fenders off of RDC for $250. I'll wait to install them after I get the quarters.....slow, but steady!

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/603833/fullsize/img_0207.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/603834/fullsize/img_0208.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/603835/fullsize/img_0209.jpg

Damn you brian!!!! Your always snatching the deals before me LOL. Keep your eyes peeled for a set for the '90 for me would ya

Damn you brian!!!! Your always snatching the deals before me LOL. Keep your eyes peeled for a set for the '90 for me would ya

Head out to Leduc's swap meet with us in March. You'll most likely find something there.

I plan on it, Its the 8th and 9th right?

It's coming together nicely B!

What's it mean when the front driveshaft turns, but the axles don't? Ha! Yup, I think I nuked the Auburn when I took the kids to the snow this evening. Made a couple of clunks after putting it in 4wd when we got on the snow, then that was it. Pismo must have done some damage after all.

What's it mean when the front driveshaft turns, but the axles don't? Ha! Yup, I think I nuked the Auburn when I took the kids to the snow this evening. Made a couple of clunks after putting it in 4wd when we got on the snow, then that was it. Pismo must have done some damage after all.

Are you sure it's not your hubs?

Are you sure it's not your hubs?

Yup. The axles weren't turning.

What's it mean when the front driveshaft turns, but the axles don't? Ha! Yup, I think I nuked the Auburn when I took the kids to the snow this evening. Made a couple of clunks after putting it in 4wd when we got on the snow, then that was it. Pismo must have done some damage after all.

Man, having to shampoo the carpet was bad enough. Now you have to pull the front diff too?

3" bulge it seems right?

Looks good. I'm still waiting to install my quarters....which ones are you looking at getting?
I think mine will look like Ollies...They are Perrys.

Man, having to shampoo the carpet was bad enough. Now you have to pull the front diff too?

Ha! Somehow I knew that would come back on me.

3" bulge it seems right?

Looks good. I'm still waiting to install my quarters....which ones are you looking at getting?
I think mine will look like Ollies...They are Perrys.

I'll probably stick with Glassworks so there's no chance of the front and rear wheel openings not matching. If that makes any sense.

just went throught htis thread, and i must say,it gives me insparation to get going on mine. keep up the nice work ,i look forward to the rest of this thread!!

Well that sucks about the broken front diff... I feel your pain, spoken in my best Bill Clinton voice

Do you know of anyone building rear quarters for the 78-79 broncs?
I'm figuring on cutting up some of Auto-Fabs 1/2 ton pickup bed sides at this point as I haven't found anything else for the older Iron.

Head out to Leduc's swap meet with us in March. You'll most likely find something there.

Hey Brian,

Count me in. The last two times I went out to the Leduc swap meet I was too late (not many deals left). I was there by 7:30 a.m. So this time I would definitely advise that you get there early. Meaning before sun up. At least that's been my experience.

Chris

Well that sucks about the broken front diff... I feel your pain, spoken in my best Bill Clinton voice

Do you know of anyone building rear quarters for the 78-79 broncs?
I'm figuring on cutting up some of Auto-Fabs 1/2 ton pickup bed sides at this point as I haven't found anything else for the older Iron.

you wont find anyone else.if it were me i'd chop up the 1/2 tons like you said. i have seen this done before a long time ago,and it turned out really good, good luck!

just went throught htis thread, and i must say,it gives me insparation to get going on mine. keep up the nice work ,i look forward to the rest of this thread!!

Thanks! Looks like you're a good bit farther than me. Start a build thread and show us what you've got.

Hey Brian,

Count me in. The last two times I went out to the Leduc swap meet I was too late (not many deals left). I was there by 7:30 a.m. So this time I would definitely advise that you get there early. Meaning before sun up. At least that's been my experience.

Chris

Thanks for the heads up Chris. Good thing it's just down the road from me.

Thanks! Looks like you're a good bit farther than me. Start a build thread and show us what you've got.
beard seats and fiber glass. thats really it.after i get moved to oregon,i'll start on beams and axles,then get my cantilevers finished for the rear.
i was looking one of the pics of your beams, did you move the upper ball joint?or kick out the lower? i wish i had time to get more done!im always working on other peoples crap!

beard seats and fiber glass. thats really it.after i get moved to oregon,i'll start on beams and axles,then get my cantilevers finished for the rear.
i was looking one of the pics of your beams, did you move the upper ball joint?or kick out the lower? i wish i had time to get more done!im always working on other peoples crap!

Take a look at post #120. In the second picture down you can see where the bottom was cut and moved out. If you have a beam to look at it will be very clear what was done. There is actually a piece of 3/16 plate added to the stack. I bought the set used, so I don't have an exact number for you on how much it was moved out. These beams were turned for 4" of lift.

ok, i have built a few sets of beams,extended and just cut and turned. i thought there was some "revolutionary"new way haha. loo