Have any of you guys cut and turned your own beams? I have the equipment and ability but am not sure where the cut should be, at the ball joints or the middle of the beam. I also could figure the correct angle but need to be sure I'm right.

I've been interested in this as well

Also, i hear you can replace the pivot bushing with a better one? Like some kind of ball bushing

Have any of you guys cut and turned your own beams? I have the equipment and ability but am not sure where the cut should be, at the ball joints or the middle of the beam. I also could figure the correct angle but need to be sure I'm right.

Getting ready to do my first set. I'll post all of the details in my build thread.

I've been interested in this as well

Also, i hear you can replace the pivot bushing with a better one? Like some kind of ball bushing

Uniballs (http://www.kartek.com/products/all/heims/heims.htm). Their actually more like a heim.

Correct camber at the lower ball joint, not in the middle of the beam.

Although the uniball pivots are nice, they definitely aren't necessary. As long as the front end geometry is good the bushings will last and won't inhibit performance.

If I recall, I read a post here within the last 6 months that someone claimed to have the jig for turning the beams. He stated he got them from a shop going out of buisness in calif I think. It may have been on another site but I'm prety sure it was here. I think I ran across it whileing searching for custom ttb lifts. Good luck.

If I recall, I read a post here within the last 6 months that someone claimed to have the jig for turning the beams. He stated he got them from a shop going out of buisness in calif I think. It may have been on another site but I'm prety sure it was here. I think I ran across it whileing searching for custom ttb lifts. Good luck.

Well, search on and find it....:toothless

Chase

What does turning the I beam do? Thats new to me. I'm getting all kinds of cool ideas for my '80 now.

When you lift a TTB setup WITHOUT drop down brackets you have to do a cut and turn so your wheels aren't wearing on the outsides. Your TTB housings pivot from the mount on the frame so when you lift it the hub/spindle, being attached to the housing, will pivot on a radius and the camber adjustment is not sufficient to correct for 4 or more inches of lift.You have to cut the housing and "turn" it up to bring the hub/spindle back perpindicluar to the ground. Once it is at the propper angle you have to weld material in and add bracing to strengthen it, I however, don't know the propper angle. There are a few shops that do this, www.weldtecdesigns.com, www.autofab.com, and www.camburg.com but I am a do-it-yourself guy.

yikesbb, you already have tour radius arms right? I was going to build those but am noy sure on length and all. If you have any suggestions PM me please.

What does turning the I beam do? Thats new to me. I'm getting all kinds of cool ideas for my '80 now.

It corrects camber when using a lift spring without drop brackets.

I see. The lift in my '80 is a 4" Rancho with the extended radius arms but no drop down bracket.

yikesbb, you already have tour radius arms right? I was going to build those but am not sure on length and all. If you have any suggestions PM me please.

I haven't done them yet, but will post up when I do.

I see. The lift in my '80 is a 4" Rancho with the extended radius arms but no drop down bracket.

Just to clarify, the drop down brackets mentioned are for the TTB pivots, not the radius arms. Are you saying your TTB pivot brackets are factory?

Uhhhh...stupid question. Why not just put the bracket that lowers the setup on the front?

Chris

Uhhhh...stupid question. Why not just put the bracket that lowers the setup on the front?

Chris

The longer drop brackets put added stress on the frame and usually lead to cracks. They also don't help ground clearance.

You also get more articulation for the trail or more travel for high speed, it just depends on which type of off roading you do.

I just dug out my extra beams and was planning on doing the cut/turn myself. I'll see how it goes and keep updates. if i ever get started!! My only ? is where can you get different axle shafts. they are going to need to be longer.

They need to be longer for stock width axle-housings?

i wouldn't think so

i wouldn't think so

I know they aren't needed. I was wondering if bad96 knew that.

From my understanding (from Jon at Autofab) the only time you need longer axles is if you go wider on the track width = longer housings.

LOL, I guess the sarcasm when I asked if longer axles were needed didn't come accross.

To clarify, longer axles are NOT needed for stock width axle-housings.

I caught that, I was just ansewering bad96'2 statement that he would need new axles.

yeah your axles will work with stock legnth beams but if you do a cut turn for say a 6 inch coil you actualy narrow the track width, and to regian the track width then you need to lengthen the beam and in turn lengthen the axle shaft.

I brought that up to Jon at Autofab when I started looking into doing a cut and turn and it is a minimal amount.

i want cut and turned beams, 2in wider on each side. the shafts are going to be the most expensive part of the project i think

I run a 6 inch coil and axle lenth is no issue with cut and turned beams

Why run so much lift?

coilovers with 35s and stock sheetmetal. About a 5 inch lift on mine, but I have used the deaver 5.5 coils with no problems

Personally, I'd rather make some more clearance and keep the truck an inch lower, but your truck looks well-built and I'm sure it works well. BTW: I think Autofab makes fenders for your truck that move the opening up but don't have any flare. They look stock but make more room for larger tires.
Also, it looks like on your truck the tie rod ends were relocated to the top of the steering knuckle, I'm curious as to why....

I've seen a lot issues with too much lift. More lift = more steering issues. Mkiefer has cross-over steering which helps alleviate these problems.
My truck has about 10" of bump travel and about 6" of droop. Stock steering limits the TTB to about 16" of travel (from full bump, metal to metal). IMO, anything much over 4" of lift is unnecessary and starts to eat up valuable droop travel.

mkiefer, what aren't you at the 500?

Im not at the 500 because i have to much work to do right now. My other F150 Will have glass. Its an 86 an I got the autofab high cut fenders for it. I totally agree with you on ride heigt, but the ac box is the problem,not the fenders. You have a very nice bronco by the way. Jon can be tempermental, but he is a great guy. I worked for him for 4 years.

Im not at the 500 because i have to much work to do right now. My other F150 Will have glass. Its an 86 an I got the autofab high cut fenders for it. I totally agree with you on ride heigt, but the ac box is the problem,not the fenders. You have a very nice bronco by the way. Jon can be tempermental, but he is a great guy. I worked for him for 4 years.

Ahhhhh, ok. I take it you built the Bronco yourself? What did you do when you worked for John?

You listening to Weatherman?

I did build it. i did a little bit of everything when I was there. I left in 99 and went to H&M in san marcus. In the beginnning of 04 i started working for myself. what does the weatherman have to say today?

The usual race-traffic stuff... always entertaining! I've been listening to it all day while working outside. I just started following the race on Race-Dezert as well.

Have you been following the race?

No i havn't. im heading in for the night so ill catch up. I will get a thread started to show all my stuff soon to instead of hijacking soonone elses;)

Sounds good, there are couple things on your truck I want to pick your brain about.

No i havn't. im heading in for the night so ill catch up. I will get a thread started to show all my stuff soon to instead of hijacking soonone elses;)

Did this thread ever get started? I've been searching / researching my own future build for sometime and am interested in yours and steveG's setups. Please reply.

Thats True. You should only need longer axles if your extending your track width. The whole Idear behind Cutting and turning the ttb beam is to correct front axle alignment while getting the ride height/ ground clearance you want. I have actually heard two different schools of thought on C&T beams, both with pros and cons. Cutting Inboard of the pumpkin will maintain better axle alignment (more of a straight line between u-joints) but will give you more plunge of the slip joint axle (pass side) while cutting between balljoint and pumpkin can severely over-extend the Center u-joint causing breakage in long travel apps or high ride height situations. C&T Beams should only be used for about 4-5 in lift with no more the 18-19 in travel. Properly done with good shocks (or great tuning) this can be a formidable supspesion system. Get rid of stock steering. Period. Superlifts Super runner steering kit is a good idea, Just needs to be stronger. I'd like to see a set up like that with 1 in. Steel adjuster tubes and 7/8 hiems. Can you say burly?

Get rid of stock steering. Period. Superlifts Super runner steering kit is a good idea, Just needs to be stronger.

While it's true that stock TTB/TIB steering has bump steer issues on the drivers wheel, it's not the first thing on my list to remove. My truck and many others work damn well with stock steering. Superlift had some good thoughts on their steering kit but didn't really address the issues at hand. Most of us know that the steering geometry for the passenger wheel is already quite good in stock form. It's the drivers wheel that suffers. All the Superlift kit does is make both wheels have equally bad geometry. It shortens the tie rod for the passenger wheel taking away good geometry and lengthens the drivers giving a bit better geometry. The kit is also built too light for any serious abuse.

The best answer is cross-over steering but again, not a necessity.


SandStallion, Welcome to FSB and BroncoSpeed! What are the plans for your truck?

Again, absolutely true on the steering issues. Someone needs to manufacture an un-equal length cross over steering kit. I suppose it wouldn't be that hard to do ourselves... Just make the center link kinda like superlift's then get L&R links the same length as each beam... (from inner beam pivot to arm on steering knuckle) then mount on center link equa-distance apart as the mounts on the beams. I think its either 8 or 12 inches apart. I would have to run out to the truck with a tape measure right now and thats more effort that I feel like putting in at the moment. :) lazy bum, I know. But in theory it should work? Opinions anyone? I'm open to criticizm. Uh.. eventually I want the camburg cut and turned beams, with an extended radius arm that utilizes the factory R.A. Bushing (for ride quality). I think I'm only gonna get 18 in. travel with 14-16 in. Kings or Racerunners (budget minded, and I still have to cycle and measure before I settle on actual length of coilovers.) BUT it should be 18 in. of fully functional 4x4.

I'm after the same setup.

I want to do something like that for steering eventually; tie rods the length of the beams. I've got a question, are the beams equal length, or slightly different? (It's dark and wet outside, so I'm not going out to the truck.) If they're the same, I've considered using two stock passenger side tie rods.

Ruff measurement here guys. I'm fighting the skid plate, steering and quadshock brackets on thge fronts of the beams but approx from pivot on crossmember to center of ujoint (@ steering knuckle) is 48 inches for drivers beam and 36 for passenger beam. I was wondering if its possible to raise the mounting ear on each beam 2 inches and correct the balljoint side by 1.5 to 2 degrees each side. that should provide close to 4-5 inches of lift while retaining a decent axle geometry? anybody got different numbers?

Ruff measurement here guys....but approx from pivot on crossmember to center of ujoint (@ steering knuckle) is 48 inches for drivers beam and 36 for passenger beam.
I can't answer the question, but thank you for the rough measurement.

Ruff measurement here guys. I'm fighting the skid plate, steering and quadshock brackets on thge fronts of the beams but approx from pivot on crossmember to center of ujoint (@ steering knuckle) is 48 inches for drivers beam and 36 for passenger beam. I was wondering if its possible to raise the mounting ear on each beam 2 inches and correct the balljoint side by 1.5 to 2 degrees each side. that should provide close to 4-5 inches of lift while retaining a decent axle geometry? anybody got different numbers?

Mounting ear ?????? You can get the height by just doing the ends. The center u joint does require some custom clearancing (grinding) though. I run about 5 inchs and can run 4x at hiway speeds with no problems.

I didn't know what else to call it, on the drivers beam it would be inside of pumpkin to the inner bushing... on the passenger beam I assume it would be from the axle portal to the bushing. Yeah I know I was had pressed for terminology.

Ahhhh. I get it know! Ill get some pics of my stuff up this weekend. I have pics of a few things that might interest you.

no pics yet?