I couldnt think of another section to put this in.
Jopes and Badass1tonf100 sparked my intrest into buying all the stuff needed from Surplus Center and doing it myself VS. buying a ready-to-go setup from companies like WTOR, PSC, etc.
Nothin' against any of those companies, it's just something that sounded more fun to try myself.

The only thing I'm 100% sure of is the ram itself:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531636/original/ram.jpg
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007061614164007&item=9-4300-08-S

I've never done any plumbing with AN, JIC, or NPT fittings before, so I just just wanted to make sure I grabbed all the right parts.


I bought these for when I tap the steering box:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531641/fullsize/ear-981608.jpgX2
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=EAR-981606ERL&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+115&x=25&y=13


For the ports on the ram:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531639/fullsize/p2404c.jpgX2
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007061614164007&item=9-2404-6-6

90* swivels to connect the hoses:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531640/fullsize/p6500c.jpgX4
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007061614164007&item=9-6500-6-6

And both hoses:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531637/fullsize/p9-hosebc.jpgX2
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007061614164007&item=921-2236


Also some caps, in case anything goes wrong:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/531638/fullsize/p304c.jpgX4
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2007061614164007&item=9-304-C-6


None of the stuff was expensive, so I wont be too heart broken if I need to buy some new fittings.


Suggestions?

it works great. you wont regret it

Looks sweet. I've already got the same cylinder and a spare box to drill and tap, so I'll be following this.

Looks sweet. I've already got the same cylinder and a spare box to drill and tap, so I'll be following this.

Well, Raf already made it pretty easy on us for drilling/tapping the gear box:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10413

I know he did, I'm just waiting to ship my 60 half-way across the country. You know of any good axle shippers? I tried searching pirate, but no red star and it kept screwing up......

What about the aluminum fittings that I bought from summit? Should I have opted for steel instead?

I already got one vote that said I should've.

I know he did, I'm just waiting to ship my 60 half-way across the country. You know of any good axle shippers? I tried searching pirate, but no red star and it kept screwing up......


Someone suggested these guys a while back:
https://www.forwardair.com/index.htm

I cant remember who mine was shipped through...It was whoever the wrecking yard where I got if from used.

You wanna put up a summit link for us lazy folks for the steel fittings?

You wanna put up a summit link for us lazy folks for the steel fittings?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR%2D961606ERL&N=700+400041+4294849624+4294906726+4294906676+115&autoview=sku


You can probably find them cheaper than that.

I know he did, I'm just waiting to ship my 60 half-way across the country. You know of any good axle shippers? I tried searching pirate, but no red star and it kept screwing up......

forward air. strap it to a pallet.

Well, just to be on the safe side I decided to buy the steel fittings for my gearbox.

I'll keep the aluminum ones for spares I guess.:shrug

Looking to do it to my 78, anyone know where t tap the 78 style box?

Looking to do it to my 78, anyone know where t tap the 78 style box?


pm ox1 he did a write up

I see you ended up choosing steel fittings, and I too would recommend them over aluminum. If you mix steel and aluminum, you have a higher probability of tearing up the aluminum fittings threads.

A tip for anyone else who hasn't purchased yet, always check any hydraulic shops and heavy equipment dealers before you order from summit, or earls or whatever. Also, McMastercarr.com is a good source for steel 37* fittings, and likely less than the summit or any other race shop. If you are having hoses made for you at a local shop (add NAPA too the list, most stock gates brand fittings and gates weatherhead hose and can do custom hoses) you can choose right angle ends or 45* ends, I know for sure that the right angle ones come in three lengths, short, medium, and long. This makes it a lot easier to route hoses, because you can nest them with each other where they are plumbed up. The fewer adapters and couplings you use, the safer and more reliable your system will be. I got all of my hoses, fittings, and caps I needed for my first hydro assist setup from a nearby hydraulics shop for about $65.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the crimped on fittings on custom hoses are manufacturer specific. If you have Gates hose, you should use Gates fittings. Aeroquip hose, Areoquip fittings, and so on. The reason I say to keep it in mind, is if you blow a hose while you are away from your home area, it may be difficult to find a shop to crimp on new fittings, so carry spares.

As for shipping the D60, I second or third or fourth forward air, they are by far the cheapest for those w/o an account. They will however only transport from terminal to terminal. I shipped a complete HP D44 and D60 rear with them for about $300. It weighed right around 1000 Lbs and went from their Detroit, mi terminal to Los Angeles (I think anyhow, it's been a while). I now use FedEx freight quite often, because they have a terminal about 5 miles from me, will deliver to a residence, industrial location, or terminal for varying costs. They will typically give a walk in LTL customer about a 30% discount over posted rates, and if you have an account with them, you can typically get it down to about 70% off posted.

Later,
Jason

LOOKS SWEET YOU WILL BE HAPPY,

LOOKS SWEET YOU WILL BE HAPPY,

The ram itself seems to be proven. I see lots of people running the same one for hyd-assist, or full hydro over on PBB.
I was just concerned about the fittings, b/c I've never done anything like this b4.

I'm gonna try what I've already bought first...If it doesnt work out, I'll look into the stuff that Jason is talking about.

If it doesnt work out, I'll look into the stuff that Jason is talking about.

I didn't mean to confuse you, but the 37* fittings I am talking about are the same fittings you already bought. I was just listing a few more places, including possibly local sources if you or someone else needs spare parts. Both JIC and -AN fittings are 37* flare seat angles. -AN is often incorrectly assumed to be the aluminum version of a JIC fitting, but in all actuality, -AN can be made from as many or more alloys than the garden variety JIC. Technically the fittings should not be interchanged, however, the only difference between -AN and JIC is the thread class. -AN is a military/aerospace spec fitting, with a tighter thread class (but still the same size and pitch as JIC) and is mostly intended for space shuttles and air planes. JIC was standardized to be a less costly High Pressure fitting that has no requirements of keeping a space shuttle in the atmosphere.

The fact of the matter is, that you would be extremely unlikely to find a actual -AN fitting for sale in any motorsport's catalog, or online web store. Most of the stuff marketed as AN whatever thingamajigger is actually just an anodized aluminum JIC fitting. Any true -AN fitting will be listed in it's catalog as conforming to mil spec MIL-F-5509.

I apologize for any confusion caused, and if I just added too it :toothless

Later,
Jason

I didn't mean to confuse you, but the 37* fittings I am talking about are the same fittings you already bought. I was just listing a few more places, including possibly local sources if you or someone else needs spare parts. Both JIC and -AN fittings are 37* flare seat angles. -AN is often incorrectly assumed to be the aluminum version of a JIC fitting, but in all actuality, -AN can be made from as many or more alloys than the garden variety JIC. Technically the fittings should not be interchanged, however, the only difference between -AN and JIC is the thread class. -AN is a military/aerospace spec fitting, with a tighter thread class (but still the same size and pitch as JIC) and is mostly intended for space shuttles and air planes. JIC was standardized to be a less costly High Pressure fitting that has no requirements of keeping a space shuttle in the atmosphere.

The fact of the matter is, that you would be extremely unlikely to find a actual -AN fitting for sale in any motorsport's catalog, or online web store. Most of the stuff marketed as AN whatever thingamajigger is actually just an anodized aluminum JIC fitting. Any true -AN fitting will be listed in it's catalog as conforming to mil spec MIL-F-5509.

I apologize for any confusion caused, and if I just added too it :toothless

Later,
Jason



No, no, no...What I was talking about was it seemed like you pointed out that I maybe could've done everything with less fittings, and maybe chosen better quality hoses.
If swapping out the cheapy surplus center hoses/fittings for better quality parts is gonna change the overall performance of my setup, I definitely planned on looking into it after I tried this stuff out.

That's all I meant.

Your hoses should be just fine. I prefer, and recommend using as few adapters as possible, but that is just to eliminate more points of possible failure.

Your actual hoses should have the manufacturer name on them. If they do, you can find the proper crimp fittings for them online, and get some spare fittings. That way, if you jack them up, any hydraulic shop should be able to crimp on your replacements. I typically use 3 wire hydro hose for the added burst pressure rating and the bit of extra overall abuse it can take. The hose you purchased is 2 wire, and is plenty sufficient for power steering pressures, is more flexible than 3 wire, but it wont take as much abuse. You can get abrasion resistant woven liners to go over the hose where it is going to take some hits (near the axle) and that will help alleviate some concern.

IMO you did fine on your purchases. Make sure you use high quality teflon tape on all of the NPT connections. You need no thread tape or compound on the flare fittings, and do not over tighten the flare fittings, you can get them tight enough to crack the seat or the flare.

Make sure you use high quality teflon tape on all of the NPT connections. You need no thread tape or compound on the flare fittings, and do not over tighten the flare fittings, you can get them tight enough to crack the seat or the flare.

Working with hydraulics, I qould suggest using Permatex or equivelent Aviation hydraulic sealant. This does not shread and damage valves and other components when tightening the connection. Also you don't have to worry about it leaking.

Just my .02.

Working with hydraulics, I qould suggest using Permatex or equivelent Aviation hydraulic sealant. This does not shread and damage valves and other components when tightening the connection. Also you don't have to worry about it leaking.

Just my .02.

Can I pick this up at the local parts store, or would it be something I'd need to get from a local hydraulics shop?

NAPA carries it, about $7.00 for a small bottle. It's about the size of a small can of PVC glue. even has a brush on the cap for applting.

NAPA carries it, about $7.00 for a small bottle. It's about the size of a small can of PVC glue. even has a brush on the cap for applting.

Sweet.

Thanks:beer

ive got some permatex ill hook you up derrick