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    Been reading your threads and found them helpful. I have a 1990 5.0 xlt bronco that would stall when stopping caused by a faulty egr valve stuck in the open position, i replaced that and it seemed to help. The truck is not stalling now (though it has once), but I’m having near complete oil pressure loss when the truck is warm (not cold) and slows to a stop. Maybe a bad egr Position sensor or evr valve?? Not sure if the oil pressure is a problem of it’s own (worn bearings) or Stalling related. Also replaced the IAC and it tested good. Recently replaced all my old vacuum lines with and only noticed this problem since I did that. Might be vacuum related? I think the vacuum system is somehow trying to kill the engine when stopping with a warm engine. Also, when I accelerate hard smoke comes out of my hood near the air filter housing. The engine is not overheating however and I think it may be exiting out of the air filter. Any thoughts or advice would be GREATLY APPPRECIATED. Thank you.

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    My front/rear sway bars are stock that originally came with the truck as new from the factory.

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    first off wow on your build it looks great man! but i gotta few quesions on your fuel rails... i was lookin at these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10600/overview/ same thing you have i think but i have a stock 302 will these work? have any issues with my intake? should i get a 1 inch plenum spacer? if so do you know how much taller valve covers i could get with a 1 inch spacer? i really like the tall covers you have but i know a 1 inch spacer wont cut it (i dont think) and a intake isnt really doable right now...but my mai question is the rails...will they work on a stock 302?

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    Hello I am having some technical issues today, was doing a timing chain replacement and forgot where my bolts go you wouldn't happen to have any pics or anything would you for both the timing chain and water pump

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    The 1991 has the VSS on the speedometer cable located on the tail housing of the transfer case (drivers side). The rear axle magnetic sensor is for Rear Anti Lock Brakes. This axle mounted magnetic sensor became a combined RABS/VSS in 1992+ along with the PSOM (digital speedometer).





    Yes, the VSS- needs to go to EEC Pin #6 as the EEC uses a reference ground for the signal. I do see a spliced wire to ground on the VSS-, if you use the factory harness.

    [img]


    What kind of transmission? I will check to see if the F250 is similar to the Bronco.

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    Hey Seattle, I have a question about the VSS ground on a 1991 F250 5.8 E40D. I am installing the 91 running gear and ecu in a 71 F250. The rear axle has a speed sensor and I was wondering if you know on a 91 Speed Density truck does the VSS ground have to go back to pin 6 or can I just ground it to the underside of the bed, I read your post that you talked about this in but I'm not sure I understand it completely. Can you help me? Thanks!

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    OK Brother I managed to figure out the problem, I was watching Fhantom Works on Velocity channel and it inspired me to give it one more try....lol lol...so I decided to exchange the new MSD cap/rotor for another set and see but had cleaned up the old cap/rotor and put it back on and when I fired it up it ran great I even drove it to the O'Reilly's store for a refund.

    I noticed the old rotor was grey plastic with sliver contacts where as the new rotor was red plastic with brass colored contacts along with a small hex screw as if you could change the contact point for the middle of the cap? but there wasn't a spare so I asked the kid in the store to find out, first time in 10 years I've never had and product problems with MSD so it just goes to show you, you never know....:rofl:

    Thanks ~ :thumbup

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    Hey Brother I need some help, it's smog time again for me in Sept and I wanted to get ahead of the curve....the BKO's been running really great this last year and I decided to put on a new MSD cap, rotor and a set of Autolite #24 plugs. I cleaned the IAC, topped off fluids and when I was done installing the ignition parts and fired it up, it ran like absolute crap with a hunting, stumbling idle up and down and only smoothing out when the rpms were up around 1500.

    I've doubled checked every thing even putting in another set of plugs and the ones I took out where all fuel rich black soot, the Bosch O2 is from 2008 when I put in the new engine and it passed the smog least year

    I cleaned the IAC initially then swapped in a spare, no improvement, fuel pump, FPR and injectors all where new last year...........

    I'm stumped so any input is greatly appreciated....hope all is well on your end...:thumbup

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    OK win for having the best written, best photographs most understandable thread I have ever seen here, on ford-trucks.com or anywhere!!!

    I have a no start and am getting Code 34 on my 5.8L 95 FSB. I am going to go pull the EVP sensor.

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    hey seattle, I talked to you about a year ago when I was building a 408 with maf swap. everything went smooth except for the a/c control wires. the s/d has an extra one in the harness. the eec out of the 95 ca. maf (bio1) has one less. my a/c does not cycle anymore and I have to switch it to vent every few minute or it freezes.... also builds too much pressure and just burnt the a/c clutch... do you know how to wire it so the compressor cycles properly or point me in the right direction.... thanks peter

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    https://scontent-a-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1528722_624711894253268_1474697702_n.jpg


    sorry to invade your visitors page :haha

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    so a9p will use ccd tfi? correct.. and my maf that is out of my 5.8 i can use with my a9p? im doubting this since mustang maf was probably different. will be loooking to buy my moates setup soon so that should fix the maf problem correct? also am aware when i go 393w i need a new flexplate but thats something i have to research since u have a tank trans in your bronco:popc1:
    anyways thanks for your time your goodwill is very much appreciated here
    :notworthy:notworthy

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    87 Posts
    got my ecu in today:thumbup
    so the distributor i have does have an 8 pin connector but i counted 7 wires anyways should be a ccd type dist?
    so i will be able to use this dizzy? if so good since i will be using my 302 roller that i picked up a couple of weeks ago, has a pretty good setup from what i can see (eddy heads eddy performer intake,which i can use on my 5.8 with proper lower?,
    and crane cam 2020 which is set up to work with speed density since i looked at the specs etc forged pistons yadayada..) so to calrify my whole dilemma and sorry for the questions im sure your probably overwhelmed at times with rhetorical gibberish, im a fast learner and i want to get this all right,

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    ableforfame,

    you want to use an Mustang A9P EEC which has better idle programming for an auto transmission. Either the manual A9L or the A9P can be use with a manual tranny. The distributor differences are OBD2 uses a steel Distributor Gear for a Roller Cam and has an 8-pin connector for a Remote Mounted CCD TFI ICM. With a A9L/A9P MAF Upgrade, you will use a Distributor Mount TFI-IV TFI ICM), same as on your 1990/1991 Bronco. I use a Remote Mount CCD TFI ICM as I am using a WAY1 EEC from a 1995 California MAF F150.

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    i had a question for you. i see your pretty experienced with alot of the tech stuff and i hope you can shed some light on my build. im converting to maf and doing a stroker with a computerless tranny. my 351w came with a distributor and a maf sensor and their OBD2, im going to be using a mustang a9l or a9p whichever i find to be suited, well my question is Can i use the obd2 dizzy and maf for my ecu or would i have use an obd1?

    thank you for any info you might have

    ed

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    Any Auto Parts Store should have them. About 50 cents each or $1.50 for a pack of three. You probably need 3/16, 7/32 or 1/4 for the 4mm hose.
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