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Solid front axle guide

114K views 22 replies 17 participants last post by  CoorsRacing28 
#1 ·
There are tons of questions asked each month about solid front axles, and while alot of folks are very knowledgeable on the subject, alot also answer questions by refering to the following guide.

Click me!!

So to cut out the middle man, please check here first!
It's a very thourogh guide that alot of us have bookmarked...I'd suggest the same for you as well...:beer

** This sticky has been made from a suggestion by Rockfrog **
 
#3 ·
chambiec1 said:
On that site you posted, Shane, what does "reverse spiral" mean?
Reverse Spiral is the technical term Spicer uses, think of it as how the gear is cut.
High Pinion is the slang :duh

Also, I've a new site and am working on update the articles and posting real size pictures :chili:
 
#4 ·
Mr.N said:
Reverse Spiral is the technical term Spicer uses, think of it as how the gear is cut.
High Pinion is the slang :duh

Also, I've a new site and am working on update the articles and posting real size pictures :chili:
Mr.N, on your site, http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44.htm
Pic 12 States:

is a Dana 44 Reverse Spiral solid front axle from a 1978 Ford F150 4x4. It has open ball joint knuckles and note the Panhard bar is attached to the cast coil mount. It's rumored there is a 3" tuber version out there, I can't find any info on this.

Maybe others will speak up here as well, but in most instances you say the axle tubes are 2.75". The 1978.5 I just picked up, now that I have had time to focus on it, measures 2.95" by caliper OD (stripped to bare metal). Not 3", but certainly not 2.75". I think the D44HD with leaf spring were 2 15/16" but this is just a Bronco/F150 (radius arm) axle with the cast in track bar mount. Looks to be a typical 78-79 Bronco axle, just doesn't have 2.75" tubes. It's difficult for me to tell the thickness of the wall. Maybe someone has a way to get 8" into the tube past the cast portion to see what the ID is?

Just thought you'd like to know, and I can provide a pic if you need it. :thumbup
 
#5 ·
yep, I also discovered yesterday, since you are reviving this from the dead, if anyone cares....

a heavy duty D44 8 lug outer for Ford
and a heavy duty 8 lug chevy outer.....

use the same part number for the inner bigger bearing. That Timken part number for the race is JLM 104910. The hubs are almost identical (bigger/thicker than a normal 44 hub), though I suspect the chevy hub is a tiny bit wider, like maybe 1/8th, seeing as the outer shaft is about that much longer. likely same thing when comparing the ford HD spindle to the chevy big bearing spindle. They are extremely similar, until you get to the brakes.
 
#6 ·
Andy351 said:
front dana 60 bible

thats a great one too.

When searching through this again, as i was trying to get a question about fitting 15in rims on D60 front I noticed in the the page about using chevy parts, they stated in one sentence that said that ford calipers were interchangeable. Can anyone confirm this? it appears it would only apply to 78-79 stuff though.

Can someone tell me if D44 8lug rotors would fit D44 calipers of the same era on a D60? would 80-96 calipers work?
 
#7 ·
On Chevys, 10 bolt and and dana 44 outers are interchangeable. Eight lug spindles, hubs and brakes would bolt to a ford dana 44. Eight lug ten bolt outers and brakes would also bolt onto a five lug TTB. You would have to steal the caliper brakets off the ten bolt axle. the outer knuckles are also interchangeable, but the tierod is fliiped the other way from a 44, I dont remember wich is wich though. If you find a eightlug 10 bolt remember that it is good for parts.

Im gonna pu eight lug parts on my TTB (stubs, spindles, brakes, hubs, and hardware), and a locked 14 bolt. switch to solid 44 later and swap the eight lug ont it.
 
#10 ·
You can get on eBay and pick up some GM Dana 44 flat top knuckles and gain more clearance at the tie rods STOCK (most GM Dana 44s mount the tie rod above the mount on the knuckle) then have the potential to go to high steer in the future if necessary.
 
#12 ·
DMGunn said:
You can get on eBay and pick up some GM Dana 44 flat top knuckles and gain more clearance at the tie rods STOCK (most GM Dana 44s mount the tie rod above the mount on the knuckle) then have the potential to go to high steer in the future if necessary.
The Click me site up top has an atricle on Flat top knuckles, and info on what to aviod.

Hint, careful with the track bar hitting the tierod.
 
#13 ·
im planning to do a full 1ton conversion on my bronco , im even going to put in a strait 6 Cummings diesel with dual turbos. i dont know whether to go with a ford, Chevy or dodge 1 ton parts truck, i can get any one of them
for under $900, im thinking the dodge though because it has a fresh Cummings in it so i dont have to look for one.
 
#14 ·
first off search, second you should have posted this in the noob question thread, third go with the ford, depending on the year the dodge pumkin will be on the wrong side and 67 somn wms instead of 69 on the ford and the later modles are low pinion. and the chev has the passenger side pumkin too.
 
#16 ·
Just a few part numbers i finally tracked down that eluded me:

Kingpin rebuild kit: DAN 706395-X
Includes EVERYTHING to rebuild one side, except the lower kingpin, which is generally reused from what i understand

Spindle bearing and seal kit: DAN700014
includes spindle bearing, seal and "slinger" that goes on stub shaft

Those are dana spicer part numbers. I wanted to pick them up locally since i've waited a little long and didn't want to risk not getting them in time. From what i've heard advance auto or napa can get this stuff...i'll find out tomorrow


edit: i just ran across another part number for the kingpin kit: 706395x ill find out tomorra which is correct.
2nd edit....the first part # DAN 706395-x is apparently the correct one for the kingpin rebuild kit. I Scored 2 king pin kits and 2 spindle bearingand seal kits thru a friend for Less than $70
 
#17 ·
ok....disregard the stuff about the kingpin kit. That part number is just the lower kingpin rebuild kit. The complete kit is apparently a yukon-only thing. all the other kits ive found are missing pieces or only have the upper or lower parts.

spindle part # is correct thoug
 
#19 ·
Thats not what it means :duh

Im guesing you didnt read the link posted in Blaze's original post, or you wouldve read this:

Mr.N's Dana Page said:
Dana designed the first reverse spiral axle in the early sixties for Ford. Dana released the 44RS for production in January 1965. Early enough to possibly be under a few rare 1965 F100's, however no written confirmation on this has been found. The 44RS was a complete new design in axle, with special design to lube the pinion that was above the fluid level. This axle has also been called the Dana 44 High Pinion, Dana 44 Reverse Rotation, Dana 44 Reverse Cut, Dana 44 High clearance and many more names. A reverse spiral axle has the center line of the pinion contacting the ring gear above the center line of the axle, and thus has different lubrication passages. This axle offers a strength increase over a standard rotation axle while in forward movement. It allows the drive shaft to contact the pinion yoke at a much higher level of connection, thus keeping the drive shaft several inches higher. The gears are not interchangeable with gear sets that are designed with the pinion below the centerline of the ring gear, however the carrier is. Reverse Cut refers to the direction the ring gear is cut for reverse spiral housing. The axiom of the reverse cut is to strengthen the gear while in the front drive axle of operation. Standard cut gears can not be swapped with reverse cut gears, however in the Dana 44 the ring gear carrier can be swapped. High pinion, Hy-Pinion or Hi-Pinion are all slang used in and out of the industry for a reverse spiral axle. High Clearance is a Ford marketing term used for the reverse spiral axle. Reverse rotation: is the single most misused axle term. Reverse Rotation is a slang term used to describe a reverse spiral cut housing. Neither the axle nor the axle shafts travel in a reverse motion, or travel 'backwards' compared to a regular housing. This term only shows the ignorance of the person or company using it.
 
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#22 ·
I have a 96 and I would like a solid front axle. Is it really that much better because I hear there is no hardware available to avoid a huge amount of lift. Off road Ltd. in Aurora, CO is developing a kit to maintain stock lift with solid axle conversion.

I would just say that if you don't know the solid axle is "that much better" for whatever you plan to do with it (keep it stock height????????), then why bother?

I did an SAS along with an upgraded rear for offroad use, lockers, long travel, and lift (6"). I always hated having a TTB bronco and would have rather had a chevy solid axle truck, but I wanted the ford, and I knew I wanted lift, and offroad ability with the solid axle. otherwise, stock, this company is going to likely offer a pretty expensive solid axle kit without much lift. Not sure I see the point.
 
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