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Brake Rotors & Pads

4K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  4GIRLS 
#1 ·
I'm a real stickler about using Motorcraft parts and believe in fixing something once, with quality parts, so I don't have to go in and do it again anytime soon.
I'm getting a vibration when coming to a stop from the front end and I had a friend take a look and he said that my rotors are warped and recommends replacing them.
The pads are worn and should be replaced as well as far as I can tell, don't get the tell-tale squeeling yet, but I want to replace them before it gets to that point.

Now, to my actual question, Would it be worth it to spend the extra money on the Motorcraft rotors (Found them for $81 + free shipping) or go with another brand for about $20 or so less a rotor? If so, what are good brands to go with?
What about brands for brake pads?
Do the calipers usually need to be replaced when the rotors get warped or no?

Thank you in advance
 
#2 ·
Are they MADE IN USA? If not, it's probably not worth a dime extra.Anything MADE IN USA, if possible. If not, a US brand, like Wagner or Bendix.Same.I've never replaced a caliper for any reason, other than that one caliper being stuck. The LESS you open the hydraulic system, the better. Click this & read the captions:

well, except I'm a believer in doing a brake bleed before your fluid is black like so many people seem to do. But I also agree that warped rotors should not affect the calipers once you have a new rotor on there.

Pads, I use the wagner thermo quiet, long lasting, no noise, minor brake dust, reasonably priced.
 
#3 ·
thermoquiets are this professional's choice.

and unless you want to spend $80 for a made in usa rotor just use the cheapest rotor you can find. they are all the same. i've always used the wearever line from advance, for about 6 years, and i've had THREE bad rotors. I've purchased probably over 100 from them. i'd say that's pretty good for chinese pieces of crap.
 
#17 ·
Stay away from cross-drilled rotors!

Cross drilling allows them to cool faster and was originally made for racing. Racing is NOT Heavy Duty. Race parts were made for their application, which normally was ONE race. Cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking between holes, have longer stopping distance due to their reduced surface area, and are more expensive.

Unless you drag or street race your Bronco.. they will only hurt you.
(if you do an autocross with your bronc, I'd like a youtube link :rockon )
 
#6 ·
Are they MADE IN USA? If not, it's probably not worth a dime extra.Anything MADE IN USA, if possible. If not, a US brand, like Wagner or Bendix.Same.I've never replaced a caliper for any reason, other than that one caliper being stuck. The LESS you open the hydraulic system, the better. Click this & read the captions:

Awesome, thank you :)

well, except I'm a believer in doing a brake bleed before your fluid is black like so many people seem to do. But I also agree that warped rotors should not affect the calipers once you have a new rotor on there.

Pads, I use the wagner thermo quiet, long lasting, no noise, minor brake dust, reasonably priced.
One of my biggest concerns is getting an aftermarket part that doesn't fit or has differences from the OEM. Is this a problem with rotors or are they kinda all the same in that sense?
 
#8 ·
Awesome, thank you :)



One of my biggest concerns is getting an aftermarket part that doesn't fit or has differences from the OEM. Is this a problem with rotors or are they kinda all the same in that sense?

A bronco rotor should not be an issue. If it's meant for your model year, and they give you the correct part number it won't be an issue. Keep in mind if you have a later bronco with ABS, it has the toner ring to deal with (pull off, press on). I no longer have those issues but remember the days.

Personally though, I disagree with going cheap on rotors, don't buy Chinese if you can afford it. Buy a more quality piece. If you get on the brakes a lot and heat them up, a good rotor should never cause you an issue. It also would likely last longer and be able to be turned at least once before being discarded.
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
This is why I love you guys. I posted this on an F150 Forum, yesterday and still haven't received a response.
Anything else I should know before tearing into them?
This video makes it look so easy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZRmDeLDbtQ
 
#13 ·
make sure your parts house has fresh bearings/seals in stock in case you need them. inspect the bearings closely for brinelling, spalling, or discoloration. if you see any of those or other symptoms (google it) replace them. riding on crap bearings is nothing to bear with. ;)

and that video is correct, it IS that easy! just don't drop the inner bearing/seal on the ground like that guy did! i'd recommend you use a good synthetic grease to grease the bearings with.
 
#14 ·
There are no more made in usa rotors. very few made in canada. So not much to worry about there.

Me? I buy the cheapest pads money can buy. Paid $6 a box for some off rockauto. thread On newer vehicles I've always used ceramic pads. Longer pad life, no dust ruining my clean wheels. Alot of times in the Spring (as in the season) brake pad manufactures will do rebates.

Oh and make sure your wheels bearing are good and tight if not they will wear the pad crooked. I found that out a couple months ago. Thread
 
#15 ·
cheap pads suck ass getbent. been there done that once. i didn't realize how BAD they really were until i put a trailer on the back of the car. i swapped everything out shortly after that endeavor.
 
#16 ·
If your Bronco is two wheel drive then the change over would be that easy!
Never do a quikie brake job with cheap parts unless you like bumpers and trunk lids in your engine compartment. I've used Raybestos parts for over 40 years and have never had a problem or complaint.

By the way, Steve83, just how do you bleed the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir?????
 
#18 ·
If your current rotors are within the limits of being cut I would do that. Make sure they actually pull out the calipers and measure them and show you they cannot be cut. I worked with guys that were to lazy to do that and just told customers "rotors can't be turned, need to be replaced with new".

btw rockauto, WAGNER Part # BD60441; Front; 4WD $19.42 on closeout, one left. Grab some bearings on there too. all the closeouts ship from the same location. Just throwing my advice out there.
 
#22 ·
Just an extra piece of info the brake fluid should actually be flushed after a period of time due to the fact it absorbs moisture and every time you open the master cylinder especially in higher humidity it's less effective . These aren't new trucks and when pistons dont return in the calipers and drag due to rust and old rubber rings you can plan on warping. As for rotors and brakes upgrading is always better or at least oem quality. Big tires rear drums old fluid weaker rubber lines = longer stopping distance and more heat . Warped Rotors
 
#23 ·
brake lines?

Anyone have any opinions on braided lines? I am doing a brake job this week and thought about replacing the old rotted rubber ones. I only run 33's with no lift but thought as long as I can afford them why not...

I found a couple online, one says extended line, for lifted vehicles obviously, but when I read the description for each, they both said for vehicles lifted 4-6"...


Thougths?
 
This post has been deleted
#24 ·
Braided couldn't hurt.

As for Friction and pads just remember Ford never asked for buyout money so WHY would YOU not support them.

I have found Ford's Friction to be the same as Carbon Metalic/Performance Friction and have always believed that product to be the best.
 
#25 ·
Because i don't want to pay $80 for a set of raybestos pads in a "ford" box, when I can get them elsewhere for $50 or less. That's why I don't buy most parts from a dealer.
 
#28 ·
After warping several rotors on my Liberty (my DD) I bought a more expensive rotor that was thicker. Not in the overall thickness, but the thickness of the friction surfaces. They were heavier and had more material to dissipate the heat. I have beat the snot out of them and they are still true after 3 years. I also have not had to get them turned yet so I think that they will last a long time. I have about 25k miles of city driving on them so I am pleased. Mine were USA built but I do not remember the brand.
 
#31 ·
I'm still not paying a "Ford" price for an aftermarket part. I wouldn't pay fords cost unless it was cheaper than what i can get at my parts house (where i work and get 20% off). I don't own a truck anymore, but i can count on 1 hand how many times i've used a "dealer" part by my control. The most recent was a timing belt for my car. it was $110, where as it is only $25 for the dayco....they are the same belt....only was for warranty purposes.

Car manufactures don't make their own brake parts, water pumps, belts, etc....they get the SAME stuff that is available aftermarket....they just put a huge markup on it at a dealer. If you want to pay their game, that's your money. I'll save mine using the same parts for hundreds less.
 
#33 ·
Sorry to jack the thread, but I changed my hubs to manual, and replaced the bearings while I was at it. Anyway, I can't get the clip back in on one brake pad and now i hear an alternating rub sound coming from that one side. What the phuck? Anyone have a thread on replacing these brakes with pictures? It's the pin type caliper on a 93.
 
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