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ran oil pan dry. pump wont prime

3K views 37 replies 15 participants last post by  tonyroc14 
#1 ·
i installed a oil filter relocation kit and a big cooler today plus replaced the pressure sensor. being distracted i forgot to connect a line. strated the engine and all my oil pumped out to the ground :doh0715:. i reconnected the line and put another 5 quarts of oil in it started it and guage wasnt working so after messin with the wire some starting it to test i never got it to work. thinking the new sensor was bad i checked to make sure oil was flowing so i loosened the filter where it would leak. no leak so i took it about half off with a big gap and absolutly no oil is flowing. oil is full. after starting the engine numerous times i think the pump would have primed itself by now. any ideas?
 
#3 ·
Something may be clogged. "To avoid the need for priming, the pump is always mounted low-down, either submerged or around the level of the oil in the sump. A short pick-up pipe with a simple wire-mesh strainer reaches to the bottom of the sump' (not my words). Or possibly not enough oil. A bigger cooler plus the hoses for the remote filter require more oil than the 5 quarts. Possibly with the five qts you just filled the hoses and cooler. Bad ol pump, hard to believe.
 
#5 ·
its gonna be rebuilded soon. jsut not now. well with 5 quarts the dipstick is over. im going to prime through the dizzy when i can get access to a timnig light. i might try and take the hose loose and pouring oil through it to help prime the pump.
 
#6 ·
The pump shouldn't have to be primed. It's not new.

Mark the distributor where the rotor is pointing and pull it. You won't need a timing light if you do so. If you ran it dry, the oil pump probably seized and the pump shaft should be broke. Listen closely once you pull the distributor because you just may hear half of the oil pump shaft drop into the pan. If this is the case, you'll see it once the distributor is pulled and you try to prime it.


You're probably looking at a costly mistake........
 
#8 ·
If you think it's a problem with no oil pump prime, the old ******* trick to prime it is to disable the ignition, dump a couple gallons of cheap wallyworld oil in the crankcase and crank it until you get pressure then drain the extra oil. This makes sure the pump is submerged in oil. Beats pulling the pan to get some grease in the pump. If it's really dry the distributor trick won't work.
 
#9 ·
alright i got it figuered out and it wasnt my fualt this time!!! the company who made the filter relocation kit labeled IN and OUT backwards on the block adapter. you wouldnt think this would make a difference but because the oil filter has a backflow preventer in it, it was was stopping the filter from flowing. since the filter flows from the outside in, when it was reveresed it tried to flow inside out so when i had the filter half off this is why no oil was present.

i did pull the dizzy and found everything was good. pump had resistance, teesh wernt worn, pump was primed after all. then is when i took the filter all the way off and used the drill to realizr there was pressure. got everything all good now. oil pressure is good again. hopefully running with no oil didnt cause too much wear.

notice the outside is labeled IN even tho the oil flows out

 
#10 ·
oil flows from the outside of the filter into the center and out the center into the hole it is screwed onto the block with.

By looking at that picture, the hose labeled IN comes from your engine and the one labeled out is the filtered oil.

I don't see how they have something labeled wrong.
 
#11 ·
Swap the hoses
 
#12 ·
one like me would assume when it says IN, it means the flow goes to there, not from. since the flow is comming out where it says IN that to me is wrong. when wiring say a TV, you have Video/Audio IN and OUT. OUT is a source and IN recieves. why woulkd you label something IN if its a source?

mikey i did swap the hoses but its really a PITA to do.
 
#14 ·
in is the unfiltered oil from the engine

out is the filtered oil which is sent out to all the moving parts in the engine.

it is plain and simply put. I am not understanding how you have this all switched around. To me that part is labeled correctly, you installed it wrong.
 
#20 ·
So you made a mistake no biggy. The part seems correctly labeled to me. But i have misunderstood easier things before. Hopefully the engine wasn't running without oil... I don't think you'd hurt the engine by cranking it over dry because of the residual oil. But running it dry? That hurts me! Haha


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 
#22 ·
It doesn't matter which end you are talking about. This subject here is the oil filter, not the block. The hose labelled IN goes into the oil filter. The hose labelled OUT comes out of the oil filter. If they had labelled it backwards, which they didn't, it would be even more confusing. He just needs to make sure he understands the path of the oil flow and how the system works instead of comparing it to his TV speakers. If I understood him correctly, he was going to plumb it up backwards and go trucking
 
#30 ·
just so everyone knows. i cannot recommend the brand Trans Dapt at all anymore. 2 of the 3 hoses are leaking at the ends where the threads swivle. one of them spews oil soo bad that it ran my engine out of oil when driving today. now the engine runs like crap and has all sorts of problerms. worse than it did after running it with no oil trying to figuer out the original problem and i dont think my engine will run more than a few weeks now. i have sent an furious email to them and maby they will help pay for the engine rebuild there product has caused or something. i cant even drive the truck till i get replacment hoses from them which i wont be able to rely on either and would take a week or so. i am very disappointed and upset.

o and i did find this on the instructions they have on there site. see the problem now?

 
#33 ·
ya its been working fine for almost a month. but there fittings on the hoses are leaking. theres nothing i could have done, i odnt think theres anything they could have done really. its jsut crappy parts that started to leak. the fact that 2 of 3 leaks doesnt tell me there good parts

I'M gonna be Honest!! Maybe in the future you may ask a neighbor, your wife...heck what about at the jack/in the box Drive through.....YOU HAD IT BACKWARDS.....IT IS A FORD I HAVE KNOWN OTHER GUYS WHO RAN THEM DRY......NOT THE BEST FOR COMPRESSION..
cmon now. your going to look at those last 2 pics and cant clearly see they have them labled wrong?
 
#34 ·
They look to be tapered brass fittings with teflon tape, how in the fawk could they leak if they are tight?!
 
#35 ·
it wasnt leaking at the threads or the crimp. these hoses have different ends on each side. 1 end is a jsut a crimped on brass fitting. they are not leaking. however the other end is a swivle brass fitting that spins allowing you to tighten it without spinning the whole hose. it has some seal like an O ring or something to seal it yet allow it to spin. that seal is whats leaking. the krimp and the threads are sealed however. basicly the 2 hoses are junk now because there no fixing them. ill try and get a picture tomarrow of where they leak
 
#36 ·
alright that makes sense now.
 
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