Ive been reading the big tune up thread the past day, and had a question regarding components. Ive got a 96 5.8 351w, 170k miles, no work of significance ever having been done.
Lot of differing suggestions on components in the threads ive read (including whether to gap the plugs and bump the timing on a 5.8). I just bought the following components:
Ford Racing Wires $43
Autolite 24s ~$8.5
Motorcraft DR374B Distributor Rotor $19
Motorcraft DG470 Ignition Coil $43
Motorcraft DH411B Distributor Cap $47
Stick with what you bought, much better quality than the Summit package.
You made a good choice choosing the MC coil over aftermarket made in China junk, especially MSD. I used the same parts when I did my tune up.
I also did the wider plug gap and timing bump.
The timing bump and plug re-gap may not do much good on a 5.8, maybe more harm than good. SeattleFSB has a few posts on why not to re-gap and bump the timing on a 5.8.
You actually purchased what most guys on here would recommend. I used the MSD cap cuz it has the Brass contacts
yeah I read his posts on both plugs and timing - I dont plan to gap or bump as I dont know enough and expect the swap above will make a big enough difference to make me happy while I learn more.
You definitely want to check the gap of your plugs. As during shipping and packaging or transit. Those plug gaps can change and you'll be wondering what's going on with your truck. Just gap them to what ford says for your truck. Personaly you should of went with motorcraft plugs instead of auto lite.
A couple of other things you can do is rebuild your injectors and replace all those crap plastic vac lines with silicone rubber ones, clean your throttle body.
That stuff is easy and inexpensive to do and can make a big difference.
Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
Lube Inside of Distributor Cap Surface; Suppresses voltage leaks by coating inner distributor cap surface. Part Number XG-3-A 3 oz.; or use spec ESE-M1C171-A; Also provides high voltage seal to secondary ignition wires. http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/Main/product.asp?product=Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound&category=Greases
or = brand at any parts store.
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
Apply small amounts of grease to inside of boots on both spark plug
& distributor cap ends. Silicone dielectric grease will prevent corona & arcing. Be sure you have made a good connection in the distributor cap and coil. recheck these connections periodically. If terminals in distributor cap are gray-green, or appear corroded you may have a poor connection. Poor connections
at either the distributor or spark plug ends will cause arcing.
Engine miss, spark knock, buck/jerk, surge and other driveability concerns may be caused by induction crossfire. This occurs because of improperly
routed spark plug wires
If spark plug replacement is performed, the correct firing order and spark plug wire routing is essential to prevent the possibility of induction crossfire
between cylinders. Refer to the following procedures for inspection of the spark plug wire routing and firing order. Properly reroute the spark plug wires
if required.
To eliminate the possibility of the coil wire becoming disconnected, route the coil wire under the spark plug wires at the distributor cap.
Also, I use a short vacuum hose section to slip over spark plug to help thread in & it helps to prevent cross-threading when using socket & ratchet; esp in #4
Wire dividers prevent cross fire...Not sure of your firing order but 302s have 7 and 8 together which can lead to issues if the wires are close together or damaged.
I don't see air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve and crankcase breather filter on your list of parts...I know your thread is about ignition components, but I include these parts in a tune up.
Check your spark plug gap just before you install each plug. If you drop or bump a spark plug, check it again. Check that your base timing is set at 10 degrees BTC. Then test for any Diagnostic Trouble Codes.
Route your wires as pictured below.
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